CN110952215B - Preparation method of knitted fabric with bionic composite structure - Google Patents

Preparation method of knitted fabric with bionic composite structure Download PDF

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CN110952215B
CN110952215B CN201911098332.7A CN201911098332A CN110952215B CN 110952215 B CN110952215 B CN 110952215B CN 201911098332 A CN201911098332 A CN 201911098332A CN 110952215 B CN110952215 B CN 110952215B
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needle
knitting
needle bed
knitted fabric
double
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CN110952215A (en
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陈晴
范金土
郑嵘
万贤福
傅白璐
马丕波
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Donghua University
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/104—Openwork fabric, e.g. pelerine fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B7/00—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B7/04—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles with two sets of needles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/203—Unsaturated carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/10—Repellency against liquids
    • D06M2200/12—Hydrophobic properties
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins
    • D10B2321/022—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins polypropylene
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyethers
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/021—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophobic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/022—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophylic

Abstract

The invention relates to a preparation method of a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure, which is characterized in that after the texture structure of the knitted fabric is designed, a computerized flat knitting machine is adopted for knitting; the knitted fabric is characterized in that a main body area of the knitted fabric is of a single-sided structure, a plurality of local areas dispersed in the main body area are of double-sided structures, and the stitch density of the single-sided structure, the stitch density of an outer layer of the double-sided structure and the stitch density of an inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially decreased; when the weaving starts, the double-sided structure is woven firstly, and the method specifically comprises the following steps: controlling a needle selection device of a head of the flat knitting machine to select knitting needles of a front needle bed and a back needle bed at the same time, controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I to perform 1-interval needle drawing and looping knitting, and controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed II to perform needle drawing and looping firstly and then perform 0-3 times of tucking on the same knitting needle of the needle bed I; the weaving process of the single-sided structure comprises the following steps: and controlling a needle selection device of a flat knitting machine head to only select the knitting needle of the needle bed I to knit with a full needle, and simultaneously controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed II not to knit. The fabric prepared by the method is light and thin and has good one-way moisture conductivity.

Description

Preparation method of knitted fabric with bionic composite structure
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of spinning, and relates to a preparation method of a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure.
Background
With the diversification of life styles, the wearing comfort requirements of people on clothes are higher and higher. In order to keep the body as comfortable as possible when wearing the garment in a sweating state, the garment is required to have moisture-wicking and quick-drying properties, i.e., to absorb sweat and quickly transfer the sweat from the inner layer close to the skin to the outer layer of the garment, so that the sweat is quickly evaporated on the surface of the garment. At present, the fabric with the moisture-conducting and quick-drying functions is mainly characterized in that the moisture-conducting and quick-drying performance is obtained by utilizing a differential effect, selecting a high moisture-conducting material and scientifically designing a fabric structure.
The knitted fabrics of the prior art are generally of single-face construction (single-face plain or tuck stitch construction) or of double-face construction (double-face interlock, double-face compound). The single-sided structure has the advantages that the thickness of the fabric is thin, tuck stitches have small meshes, and the fabric is excellent in air permeability, but the inner layer and the outer layer of the fabric have small moisture transmission difference due to the fact that only a single raw material is adopted, a differential capillary effect cannot be formed, and the fabric does not have unidirectional moisture transmission performance; although the wet permeability difference between the inner layer and the outer layer of the fabric can be improved by adopting a plating mode, the gram weight of the fabric can be increased, and the whole wet permeability is influenced; the fabric with a double-sided structure can adopt different raw materials to realize differential capillary effect, water in the fabric is automatically guided from the inner layer to the outer layer, meanwhile, the outer layer has small conduction resistance to water, the wicking rate of the fabric is high, but the evaporation performance, the air permeability and the quick-drying performance of the fabric are greatly reduced due to the increase of the thickness of the fabric, and the wearing comfort is greatly reduced.
Therefore, the problem that only single-sided and double-sided moisture-conductive and quick-drying fabrics have certain functional limitations in the prior art needs to be solved.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the problems that single-sided and double-sided moisture-conducting and quick-drying fabrics in the prior art are single in structure and have certain limitations in functions, and provides a preparation method of a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following scheme:
a preparation method of knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure comprises the steps of designing the texture structure of the knitted fabric, and then knitting the knitted fabric by a computerized flat knitting machine to obtain the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure;
the knitting structure of the knitted fabric is as follows: the main body area is of a single-sided structure, a plurality of local areas dispersed in the main body area are of double-sided structures, and the coil density of the single-sided structure, the coil density of the outer layer of the double-sided structure and the coil density of the inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially decreased progressively (the gradient change of the coil density can increase the capillary force and is beneficial to the movement of liquid water in the fabric);
the number of needles of the front needle bed of the computerized flat knitting machine is equal to that of needles of the back needle bed;
when the weaving starts, the weaving process of the double-sided structure is as follows: controlling a needle selection device of a head of a flat knitting machine to select knitting needles of a front needle bed and a back needle bed at the same time, controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I to perform 1-interval needle drawing and looping, controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed II to perform 1-interval needle drawing and looping, and then performing one-time loop accumulation, secondary loop accumulation or tertiary loop accumulation on the same knitting needle of the needle bed II, wherein the needle bed I is the front needle bed, the needle bed II is the back needle bed, or the needle bed II is the front needle bed, and the needle bed I is the back needle bed;
the weaving process of the single-sided structure comprises the following steps: and controlling a needle selection device of a flat knitting machine head to only select the knitting needle of the needle bed I to knit with a full needle, and simultaneously controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed II not to knit.
When the knitting needle of the needle bed I is controlled to carry out 1-interval needle drawing and looping knitting, the number of the coils of the single-side structure is 2 times that of the outer layer of the double-side structure because the single-side structure is full knitting; the inner layer of the double-sided structure is knitted into a loop on a needle bed II in a needle drawing manner, and then tuck knitting is performed once again, because the loop is formed in the loop forming manner, the tuck does not form a loop but forms a suspension radian, the number of the loops of the outer layer of the double-sided structure is 2 times that of the loops of the inner layer; if the tucking is continuously carried out for the second time on the needle bed II, the number of turns of the outer layer of the double-sided structure is 3 times that of the inner layer; if the third tucking is continued in the needle bed II, the number of stitches of the outer layer of the double-sided structure is 4 times that of the inner layer, and thus the stitch density of the single-sided structure, the stitch density of the outer layer of the double-sided structure, and the stitch density of the inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially decreased, as follows:
Figure BDA0002269053230000021
as shown above, when knitting the double-sided structure, when knitting the first course, the upper needles 1 and 3 are selected to knit loops, and the lower needles 1 and 2 are selected to knit loops; when a second course is knitted, 2 and 4 knitting are selected for the upper needles, 1 and 2 knitting are selected for the lower needles to knit tuck, at the moment, 4 looping loops are knitted by the upper needles, and 2 looping loops are knitted by the lower needles to form a ratio of 2: 1; when a third course is knitted, selecting 1 and 3 upper needles to knit loops, selecting 1 and 2 lower needles to gather loops again, knitting 6 loops on the upper needles, and knitting 2 loops on the lower needles to form a ratio of 3: 1; when the fourth course is knitted, the upper needles are selected to be 2 and 4 for knitting, the lower needles are selected to be 1 and 2 for tucking again, the upper needles are knitted with 8 loops, and the lower needles are also 2 loops to form a 4:1 ratio.
The invention forms a unique knitting composite structure, because the coil density of the single-sided structure, the coil density of the outer layer of the double-sided structure and the coil density of the inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially decreased, a differential capillary effect can be generated, and the fabric is endowed with one-way moisture-conducting performance; because a double-faced structure is formed locally, and a local double-faced knitting structure is adopted to simulate the surface porous structure of the moss, the absorption of liquid water and the improvement of air permeability are facilitated; the other areas are of a knitted single-sided structure, so that the diffusion of water/steam is facilitated, the diffusion area of liquid water is increased, and the diffusion evaporation rate is enhanced; the inner layer of the fabric is composed of a single-sided structure and a part of double-sided structure, so that the inner layer of the fabric is provided with a concave-convex structure, the contact area between skin and the garment is favorably reduced, the fabric is prevented from being tightly attached to the skin when sweating, the adhesion feeling is avoided, and the comfort of the garment is improved; the special structure makes up the defects of a pure single-sided structure and a pure double-sided structure, and the fabric has the characteristics of being light and thin and has outstanding one-way moisture-conducting performance. In addition, a mesh structure is added, and the air permeability of the fabric is greatly improved.
As a preferable scheme:
according to the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure, the area of the main body area is 2.8-5.8 times of the sum of the areas of the local areas, the proportion of the area of the local area to the whole knitted fabric (namely the sum of the areas of the main body area and the local area) is not small, and otherwise, moisture is gathered in a single-sided structure with high coil density to be not beneficial to moisture removal; it should not be too large, otherwise, too much water is stored in the inner layer of the double-sided structure and cannot be conducted to the outer layer of the double-sided structure, and the thickness of the fabric is increased, which affects the quick-drying performance.
According to the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure, the percentage of the area of each local area in the sum of the areas of the local areas is 20-50%, the percentage of the area of each local area in the sum of the areas of the local areas is not too large, otherwise, the number of the local areas is small, and the area of a single local area is too large, so that liquid water in different areas cannot be conducted to a double-sided structure at the fastest speed due to too large distance from a water absorption position; otherwise, the number of local regions is large, and the area of a single local region is too small, so that the area of a water absorption point is too small, liquid water cannot be absorbed effectively and more, and the water absorption and guide efficiency is influenced.
According to the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure, the mesh structure is designed in the fabric, the area of the mesh structure accounts for 1.5-9% of the total area of the knitted fabric, the air permeability of the fabric can be greatly improved, and the transmission of liquid, vapor and gas in the fabric is comprehensively improved.
According to the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure, each local area is in a shape which is beneficial to drawing water from the edge to the center.
According to the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure, each local area is in a rhombus shape, a snowflake shape, a quadrangle shape or a branch end bifurcation shape, or can also be in a pentagram shape, a thorn shape and the like. According to the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure, the number of the computerized flat knitting machine is 16 or 18.
According to the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure, the mesh structure is surrounded around each local area;
when a single-side knitting structure is switched to a mesh knitting structure, firstly, 1-2 coils on a knitting needle of a needle bed I are moved to a needle bed II, then the needle bed II transversely moves 1-2 needles, then the coils moved to the needle bed II are moved to a knitting needle adjacent to the knitting needle of which the needle bed I moves out of the coils, and finally, a hairbrush device on a computerized flat knitting machine is used for opening a needle tongue to perform knitting of the next course;
when the mesh structure is switched to a single-side structure, a needle selection device of a machine head of the flat knitting machine is controlled to select a knitting needle of a needle bed I required for knitting the single-side structure, and a hairbrush device on the computerized flat knitting machine is used for opening a needle latch to knit the next course;
the area of the mesh structure accounts for 1.5-9% of the total area of the knitted fabric, the mesh structure is used for improving the air permeability of the knitted fabric, however, due to the fact that no yarns are arranged at the mesh positions for connection, the moisture conducting channel of the knitted fabric can be reduced, too many mesh structures cannot be designed, otherwise, liquid water moisture conducting can be influenced, the size of the mesh structure is generally single-needle single-row loop transferring, and the specific size is different according to the difference of the machine numbers.
According to the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure, after the knitting is finished, hydrophilic and hydrophobic finishing is further performed on the knitted fabric, specifically, hydrophobic finishing is performed on the inner layer of the single-sided structure, secondary hydrophilic finishing is performed on the inner layer of the double-sided structure, hydrophilic finishing is performed on the outer layers of the single-sided structure and the double-sided structure, the hydrophilic effect after the secondary hydrophilic finishing is inferior to that of the hydrophilic finishing and superior to that of the hydrophobic finishing, and the one-way moisture-conducting performance of the knitted fabric is further improved through the hydrophilic and hydrophobic finishing. The invention can also achieve the same effect with the hydrophilic and hydrophobic finishing by an intarsia method, wherein the intarsia adopts different hydrophilic/hydrophobic yarns in different structural regions, for example, polyester filament yarns or cotton yarns are used in a double-sided structural region, and the polyester yarns are adopted for weaving when upper and lower needles are looped in the region; when the upper needle is looped and the lower needle is tucked, cotton yarn is adopted for knitting; polypropylene filaments are used in the area of the single-face structure.
The knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure has excellent one-way moisture-conducting performance, and the main reasons are as follows: the coil density of single face structure, the outer coil density of double-sided structure and the coil density of the inlayer of double-sided structure decrease in proper order, coil density gradient changes and can increase capillary force, be favorable to liquid water to remove in the fabric, and simultaneously, local area (being double-sided structure region) is the rhombus, snowflake, quadrangle or branch end branching shape, it is bionical branch structure, be favorable to collecting the sweat of skin at the double-sided structure inlayer, conduct the double-sided structure skin again, avoid the wetting of fabric inlayer large tracts of land, influence the evaporation of water, and then the one-way wet guide performance of fabric has been promoted, furthermore, still to the inlayer of single face structure, the inlayer of double-sided structure, the skin of single face structure and double-sided structure has carried out different arrangement, specifically do: carry out hydrophobic arrangement to the inlayer of single face structure, carry out hydrophilic arrangement once to the inlayer of double-sided structure, carry out hydrophilic arrangement to the skin of single face structure and double-sided structure, formed hydrophilic hydrophobic gradient on the fabric surface, be favorable to the collection of liquid at the fabric inlayer, move from hydrophobic district to hydrophilic district once promptly, also be favorable to the conduction of liquid between the fabric inlayer, conduct from hydrophilic district to hydrophilic district once promptly, further promoted the one-way wet permeability of fabric.
Has the advantages that:
(1) compared with the common processing technology on the market at present, the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure has no special limitation on raw materials and after-finishing processing, has simple requirements on weaving, dyeing and finishing technologies and has universality;
(2) according to the preparation method of the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure, the formed fabric is light and thin, the one-way moisture-conducting effect is obvious, the process flow is short, the production cost is low, the environment is friendly, the product positioning is flexible, and the knitted fabric is suitable for mass production.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a pattern diagram of the fabric of example 1;
FIG. 2 is a pattern diagram of the fabric of example 3;
FIG. 3 is a pattern diagram of the fabric of example 4;
FIG. 4 is a pattern diagram of the fabric of example 5;
wherein, 1-single-face structure, 2-mesh structure, 3-double-face structure, a-left end of the horizontal row and b-right end of the horizontal row.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
Example 1
A preparation method of knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure comprises the following steps:
(1) designing the texture structure of the knitted fabric: the area of the main body area is 4 times of the sum of the areas of the local areas, and the percentage of the area of each local area in the sum of the areas of the local areas is 20%; the main body area is a single-sided structure 1, and a plurality of local areas dispersed in the main body area are double-sided structures 3; each local area is rhombic, specifically as shown in fig. 1, the periphery of each local area is surrounded by a mesh structure 2, and the area of the mesh structure accounts for 1.5 percent of the total area of the knitted fabric;
(2) weaving: knitting by adopting a computerized flat knitting machine, wherein the number of the computerized flat knitting machine is 18; weaving a main body area and a local area by adopting a 300D/36f DTY polyester filament yarn; knitting from top to bottom, namely knitting the last course, then integrally knitting the next course, and for knitting one course, performing upper knitting and lower knitting from left to right; the coil density of the single-sided structure, the coil density of the outer layer of the double-sided structure and the coil density of the inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially decreased;
the specific process of knitting is now described by selecting one of the courses from end a to end b:
(2.1) selecting a needle bed II from the end a to the end b in the single-sided structure 1, and knitting the needle bed II fully, and controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I not to knit; in the double-sided structure 3, a needle selection device of a flat knitting machine head is controlled to simultaneously select knitting needles of a part of needle beds I and II, meanwhile, the knitting needle of the needle bed I is controlled to carry out 1-interval 1-drawing loop knitting, the knitting needle of the needle bed II is controlled to firstly carry out 1-interval 1-drawing loop knitting, and the loop gathering frequency is 0;
(2.2) after the step (2.1) is completed, selecting the knitting needle of the needle bed II in the corresponding mesh area 3 in the single-sided structure, transferring 1-2 loops on the knitting needle to the needle bed I, moving the needle bed I to the right or left, and transferring the loops on the needle bed I to the knitting needle of the needle bed II (the knitting needle is the needle at the adjacent position of the knitting which is just transferred out of the loops).
(3) Hydrophilic and hydrophobic finishing: after weaving, carrying out hydrophobic finishing on the inner layer of the single-sided structure, carrying out secondary hydrophilic finishing on the inner layer of the double-sided structure, and carrying out hydrophilic finishing on the outer layers of the single-sided structure and the double-sided structure to obtain the knitted fabric, wherein the secondary hydrophilic finishing adopts a finishing agent ICE (15g/L), and the knitted fabric is dried at the temperature of 150 ℃ by adopting a padding method; when hydrophobic finishing is carried out, the right side of the inner layer is upward, the part of secondary hydrophilic finishing (namely the pattern part of the inner layer of the double-sided tissue) is blocked by a baffle, 80g/L finishing agent WF-3 and 40g/L thickening agent are mixed into paste, the paste is poured into the inner layer of the fabric by a screen, and is scraped by a scraper and dried at the temperature of 150 ℃; and in hydrophilic finishing, the outer layer of the fabric is subjected to plasma treatment, acrylic acid soaking and hydrophilic group grafting, so that the outer layer of the fabric obtains hydrophilic performance.
The performance of the obtained knitted fabric was tested, specifically as follows:
the moisture absorption quick-drying performance test method comprises the following steps: selecting an EY60 liquid moisture management tester for testing, adopting a 9g/L sodium chloride solution for simulating human body sweat, placing the knitted fabric with a concave-convex surface, namely the surface knitted by a lower needle in the prepared knitted fabric as a soaking surface upward during testing, uniformly dropping 0.2g of the sodium chloride solution on the fabric by using an infusion tube for 20 seconds, and measuring the liquid absorption and diffusion conditions of the fabric through the resistance change between rings with different diameters by using a probe;
the moisture absorption and quick drying performance evaluation method comprises the following steps: referring to the national standard GB/T21655.2-2009 evaluation 2 part of moisture absorption quick drying of textiles: dynamic moisture transfer method, which mainly tests the wetting time (T), the water absorption rate (A), the maximum wetting radius (R), the liquid water diffusion speed (S), the unidirectional transfer index (O) and the liquid water dynamic transfer comprehensive index (M) of the fabric; wherein, the unidirectional transmission index can reflect the capacity of liquid water to be transmitted from the fabric water immersion surface to the infiltration surface; the liquid water dynamic transmission comprehensive index is used for representing the dynamic transmission comprehensive performance of liquid water in the fabric;
the method for testing the air permeability of the fabric comprises the following steps: the YG461E digital fabric air permeability tester is selected, the temperature of the test environment is 20 ℃, the relative humidity is 62%, and the test is carried out in the specified test area20cm2And the velocity of the gas flow vertically through the sample at a pressure drop of 100 Pa; each sample needs to be tested for 5 times, and the average value of the 5 tests is calculated, wherein the unit is mm/s; generally, the greater the air permeability of the fabric, the greater the conductivity of the fabric to moisture and the better the air permeability of the fabric.
The method for testing the moisture permeability of the fabric comprises the following steps: according to the national standard GB/T12704.2-2009 part 2 of textile fabric moisture permeability test method: the evaporation method requires that the test temperature for the moisture permeability test is 20 +/-2 ℃, and the relative humidity is 65 +/-2%. The calculation method is as follows:
WVT＝(24·Δm)/(A·t)
in the formula: WVT-moisture permeability with unit of g/(m)224 h); Δ m-the difference between two measurements of the same test assembly, in g; a-effective test area in m2(ii) a t is the test time in h.
The test results of the knitted fabric were shown in Table 1 for moisture absorption and quick drying properties, and in Table 3 for air permeability and moisture permeability.
Comparative example 1
A knitted fabric, which was produced in the same manner as in example 1, except that the knitted fabric was produced by knitting a single-side structure in a partial area with 300D/36f DTY polyester filaments, and the performance test results were as follows: moisture absorption and quick drying properties are shown in table 2, air permeability and moisture permeability are shown in table 4, and it can be seen from comparison between comparative example 1 and example 1 that example 1 has better moisture absorption and quick drying properties because the unique knitted composite structure is adopted in example 1, and because the stitch density of the single-sided structure, the stitch density of the outer layer of the double-sided structure and the stitch density of the inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially decreased, a differential capillary effect can be generated to impart unidirectional moisture conductivity to the fabric; in addition, the inner layer of the fabric is composed of a single-sided structure and a part of double-sided structure, so that the inner layer of the fabric is provided with a concave-convex structure, the contact area between skin and the garment is favorably reduced, the fabric is prevented from being tightly attached to the skin when sweating, the adhesion feeling is avoided, and the comfort of the garment is improved; this particular structure makes up for the disadvantage of the pure single-sided structure in comparative example 1 and has outstanding one-way moisture-wicking properties.
Comparative example 2
A knitted fabric, whose manufacturing method is substantially the same as that of example 1, except that a main body area knitted with a 300D/36f DTY polyester filament yarn is a double-sided structure, was obtained, and the performance test results thereof were: moisture absorption and quick drying performances are shown in table 2, air permeability and moisture permeability are shown in table 4, and comparison between comparative example 2 and example 1 shows that the moisture absorption and quick drying performances in example 1 are better, because the unique knitted composite structure is adopted in example 1, as the stitch density of the single-sided structure, the stitch density of the outer layer of the double-sided structure and the stitch density of the inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially reduced, a differential capillary effect can be generated, liquid water can move in the fabric, and the fabric is endowed with one-way moisture conductivity; the moisture permeability and the air permeability in example 1 are better, because the other areas in example 1 are in a knitted single-sided structure, so that the diffusion of water/steam is facilitated, the diffusion area of liquid water is increased, and the diffusion evaporation rate is enhanced; in addition, the inner layer of the fabric in the embodiment 1 is composed of a single-sided structure and a part of double-sided structure, so that the inner layer has a concave-convex structure, the contact area between the skin and the garment is favorably reduced, the fabric is prevented from being attached to the skin when sweating, the adhesion feeling is avoided, and the comfort of the garment is improved; the special structure makes up the defects of the pure double-sided structure in the comparative example 2, and the fabric has the characteristics of being lighter and thinner and has outstanding one-way moisture-conducting performance.
Example 2
A preparation method of a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure is basically the same as that in example 1, except that the knitted fabric is not subjected to hydrophilic and hydrophobic finishing in the step (3) to obtain a knitted fabric, and the performance test result of the knitted fabric is as follows: the moisture absorption and quick drying properties are shown in Table 1, and the air permeability and moisture permeability are shown in Table 3.
Comparing example 1 with example 2, it can be seen that the moisture absorption quick drying performance and the air permeability moisture permeability of example 2 are lower than those of example 1, because in example 1, the inner layer of the single-sided structure, the inner layer of the double-sided structure, the outer layer of the single-sided structure and the outer layer of the double-sided structure are also subjected to different finishing, and a hydrophilic-hydrophobic gradient is formed on the surface of the fabric, so that the collection of liquid in the inner layer of the fabric is facilitated, namely the liquid moves from a hydrophobic area to a secondary hydrophilic area, and the conduction of the liquid between the inner layer and the outer layer of the fabric is also facilitated, namely the liquid is conducted from the secondary hydrophilic area to the hydrophilic area, and the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the.
Comparative example 3
A knitted fabric, the manufacturing method of which is basically the same as that of example 2, except that a partial area knitted by using a 300D/36f DTY polyester filament yarn is a single-sided structure, the knitted fabric obtained is not subjected to hydrophilic and hydrophobic finishing, and the performance test results are as follows: moisture absorption and quick drying properties are shown in table 2, and air and moisture permeability are shown in table 4, and it can be seen by comparing comparative example 3 with example 2 that the moisture absorption and quick drying properties in example 2 are better because the unique knitted composite structure is adopted in example 2, and because the stitch density of the single-sided structure, the stitch density of the outer layer of the double-sided structure and the stitch density of the inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially decreased, a differential capillary effect can be generated to impart unidirectional moisture conductivity to the fabric; in addition, due to
The inner layer of the fabric in the embodiment 2 is composed of a single-sided structure and a part of double-sided structure, so that the inner layer has a concave-convex structure, the contact area between skin and the garment is favorably reduced, the fabric is prevented from being attached to the skin when sweating, the adhesion feeling is avoided, and the comfort of the garment is improved; this particular structure makes up for the disadvantage of the pure single-sided structure in comparative example 3 and has outstanding one-way moisture-wicking properties.
Comparative example 4
A knitted fabric, the manufacturing method of which is substantially the same as that of example 2, except that the main area knitted with the 300D/36f DTY polyester filament yarn is a double-sided structure, the knitted fabric obtained is not subjected to hydrophilic-hydrophobic finishing, and the performance test results thereof are as follows: moisture absorption and quick drying performances are shown in table 2, air permeability and moisture permeability are shown in table 4, and comparison between comparative example 4 and example 2 shows that the moisture absorption and quick drying performances in example 2 are better, because a unique knitted composite structure is adopted in example 2, because the stitch density of a single-sided structure, the stitch density of an outer layer of a double-sided structure and the stitch density of an inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially reduced, a differential capillary effect can be generated, liquid water can move in the fabric, and the fabric is endowed with one-way moisture conductivity; in addition, the inner layer of the fabric in the embodiment 2 is composed of a single-sided structure and a part of double-sided structure, so that the inner layer has a concave-convex structure, the contact area between the skin and the garment is favorably reduced, the fabric is prevented from being attached to the skin when sweating, the adhesion feeling is avoided, and the comfort of the garment is improved; the special structure makes up the defects of the pure double-sided structure in the comparative example 4, and the fabric has the characteristics of being lighter and thinner and has outstanding one-way moisture-conducting performance.
Example 3
The preparation method of a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure is basically the same as that of embodiment 2, and is characterized in that the shape of a local area is snowflake, the area of a main body area is 2.9 times of the sum of the areas of the local areas, the percentage of the area of each local area to the sum of the areas of the local areas is 50%, a mesh structure surrounds the periphery of each local area, and the area of the mesh structure accounts for 2.4% of the total area of the knitted fabric, as shown in fig. 2, the knitting process is basically the same as that of embodiment 1, the difference is that the adopted computerized flat knitting machine has the number of 16, and in step (2.1), in a double-sided structure, a needle selection device of a machine head of the flat knitting machine is controlled to simultaneously select knitting needles of partial needle beds I and II, meanwhile, the knitting needles of the needle bed I are controlled to perform 1-1; and controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I to carry out 1-interval needle drawing tuck knitting, wherein the tuck times is 1, the knitting needle of the needle bed II carries out 1-1 needle drawing loop-forming knitting, and 1 coil in the step (2.2) is replaced by 2 coils.
The performance test results of the knitted fabric are as follows: the moisture absorption and quick drying properties are shown in Table 1, and the air permeability and moisture permeability are shown in Table 3.
Example 4
A method for preparing a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure, which comprises the steps of basically following the steps of example 4, wherein the shape of a local area is quadrangular, the area of a main body area is 2.8 times of the sum of the areas of the local areas, the percentage of the area of each local area to the sum of the areas of the local areas is 50%, a mesh structure is surrounded around each local area, and the area of the mesh structure accounts for 9% of the total area of the knitted fabric, as shown in fig. 3; the knitting process is basically the same as that of the embodiment 1, and the difference is that the adopted computerized flat knitting machine has the machine number of 16, and in the step (2.1), in a double-sided structure, a needle selection device of a machine head of the flat knitting machine is controlled to simultaneously select the knitting needles of partial needle beds I and II, meanwhile, the knitting needle of the needle bed I is controlled to carry out 1-interval needle drawing looping knitting, and the knitting needle of the needle bed II is controlled to firstly carry out 1-interval needle drawing looping knitting; then controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I to carry out 1-step drawing tuck knitting, wherein the tuck times is 1, and the knitting needle of the needle bed II carries out 1-step drawing loop-forming knitting; and then controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I to carry out 1-step drawing tuck knitting, wherein the tuck times is 2, and the knitting needle of the needle bed II carries out 1-step drawing loop-forming knitting.
The performance test results of the knitted fabric are as follows: the moisture absorption and quick drying properties are shown in Table 1, and the air permeability and moisture permeability are shown in Table 3.
Example 5
The preparation method of a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure is basically the same as that in embodiment 3, the difference is that the shape of a local area is branch-shaped at the tail end of a branch, the area of a main body area is 5.8 times of the sum of the areas of the local areas, the percentage of the area of each local area to the sum of the areas of the local areas is 50%, a mesh structure is surrounded around each local area, and the area of the mesh structure accounts for 3.5% of the total area of the knitted fabric, as shown in fig. 4, the knitting process is basically the same as that in embodiment 1, the difference is that in step (2.1), in a double-sided structure, a needle selection device of a head of a flat knitting machine is controlled to select knitting needles of partial needle beds I and II at the same time, the knitting needles of the needle bed I are controlled to perform 1-1; then controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I to carry out 1-step drawing tuck knitting, wherein the tuck times is 1, and the knitting needle of the needle bed II carries out 1-step drawing loop-forming knitting; then, controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I to carry out 1-step drawing tuck knitting, wherein the tuck times is 2, and carrying out 1-step drawing loop-forming knitting on the knitting of the needle bed II; and finally, controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I to carry out 1-step drawing tuck knitting, wherein the tuck times is 3, and carrying out 1-drawing-needle looping knitting on the knitting of the needle bed II.
The performance test results of the knitted fabric are as follows: the moisture absorption and quick drying properties are shown in Table 1, and the air permeability and moisture permeability are shown in Table 3.
Example 6
A preparation method of a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure, which comprises the steps basically the same as the example 1, and is characterized in that the fabric structure does not comprise a mesh structure, the area of a main body region of the fabric structure is 4 times of the sum of the areas of local regions, and the percentage of the area of each local region in the sum of the areas of the local regions is 20%; the weaving process was substantially the same as in example 1 except that step (2.2) was not included; the performance test results of the knitted fabric are as follows: the moisture absorption and quick drying properties are shown in Table 1, and the air permeability and moisture permeability are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 1 liquid moisture transfer Performance of the needle fabrics of examples 1-6
Figure BDA0002269053230000091
TABLE 2 liquid moisture transfer Performance of the needle fabrics of comparative examples 1-4
Figure BDA0002269053230000092
TABLE 3 air and moisture permeability of the needle fabrics of examples 1-6
Example number Air permeability (mm/s) Moisture permeability [ g/(m)2·24h)]
1 2432 169.31
2 2429 176.47
3 2367 185.72
4 2413 191.83
5 2531 182.44
6 2336 170.95
TABLE 4 air and moisture permeability of the knitted fabrics in comparative examples 1 to 4
Figure BDA0002269053230000093
Figure BDA0002269053230000101

Claims (8)

1. A preparation method of knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure is characterized by comprising the following steps: after the texture structure of the knitted fabric is designed, a computerized flat knitting machine is adopted to knit the knitted fabric to obtain the knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure;
the knitting structure of the knitted fabric is as follows: the coil density of the single-sided structure, the coil density of the outer layer of the double-sided structure and the coil density of the inner layer of the double-sided structure are sequentially decreased;
the number of needles of the front needle bed of the computerized flat knitting machine is equal to that of needles of the back needle bed;
when the weaving starts, the weaving process of the double-sided structure is as follows: controlling a needle selection device of a head of a flat knitting machine to select knitting needles of a front needle bed and a back needle bed at the same time, controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed I to perform 1-interval needle drawing and looping, controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed II to perform 1-interval needle drawing and looping, and then performing one-time loop accumulation, secondary loop accumulation or tertiary loop accumulation on the same knitting needle of the needle bed II, wherein the needle bed I is the front needle bed, the needle bed II is the back needle bed, or the needle bed II is the front needle bed, and the needle bed I is the back needle bed;
the weaving process of the single-sided structure comprises the following steps: and controlling a needle selection device of a flat knitting machine head to only select the knitting needle of the needle bed I to knit with a full needle, and simultaneously controlling the knitting needle of the needle bed II not to knit.
2. The method for preparing the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure according to claim 1, wherein the area of the main body region is 2.8-5.8 times of the sum of the areas of the local regions.
3. The method for preparing the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure according to claim 1, wherein the percentage of the area of each local area to the sum of the areas of the local areas is 20-50%.
4. The method of claim 1, wherein each local area is shaped to facilitate drawing water from the edge to the center.
5. The method for preparing a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure according to claim 4, wherein each local area is in a diamond shape, a snowflake shape, a quadrangle shape or a branch end bifurcation shape.
6. The method for preparing a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure according to claim 1, wherein the number of the computerized flat knitting machine is 16 or 18.
7. The method for preparing a knitted fabric with a bionic composite structure according to claim 1, wherein a mesh structure is surrounded around each local area;
when a single-side knitting structure is switched to a mesh knitting structure, firstly, 1-2 coils on a knitting needle of a needle bed I are moved to a needle bed II, then the needle bed II transversely moves 1-2 needles, then the coils moved to the needle bed II are moved to a knitting needle adjacent to the knitting needle of which the needle bed I moves out of the coils, and finally, a hairbrush device on a computerized flat knitting machine is used for opening a needle tongue to perform knitting of the next course;
when the mesh structure is switched to a single-side structure, a needle selection device of a machine head of the flat knitting machine is controlled to select a knitting needle of a needle bed I required for knitting the single-side structure, and a hairbrush device on the computerized flat knitting machine is used for opening a needle latch to knit the next course;
the area of the mesh structure accounts for 1.5-9% of the total area of the knitted fabric.
8. The method for preparing the knitted fabric with the bionic composite structure according to claim 1, wherein after knitting is finished, hydrophilic and hydrophobic finishing is further performed on the knitted fabric, specifically, hydrophobic finishing is performed on an inner layer of a single-sided structure, secondary hydrophilic finishing is performed on an inner layer of a double-sided structure, hydrophilic finishing is performed on outer layers of the single-sided structure and the double-sided structure, and the secondary hydrophilic finishing is a finishing method that hydrophilic effect after finishing is inferior to that of the hydrophilic finishing and superior to that of the hydrophobic finishing.
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