CN112226888A - Three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on knitted structure and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on knitted structure and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN112226888A
CN112226888A CN202010913479.3A CN202010913479A CN112226888A CN 112226888 A CN112226888 A CN 112226888A CN 202010913479 A CN202010913479 A CN 202010913479A CN 112226888 A CN112226888 A CN 112226888A
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fiber yarn
elastic
moisture
yarn
conducting
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刘夙
谢南平
张佩华
文腾蛟
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Donghua University
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/104Openwork fabric, e.g. pelerine fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/24Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a hollow structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/253Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Abstract

The invention relates to a three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on a knitting structure and a preparation method thereof, wherein the three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric is of a three-layer weft-knitted structure, the surface layer is of a double-sided weft-knitted structure with tucks, the inner layer is of a single-sided weft-knitted plain structure, and the middle layer is of a double-sided tuck structure; the surface layer consists of hydrophilic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn; the middle layer is composed of moisture-conductive fiber yarns; the inner layer consists of hydrophobic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn; the monofilament titer of the hydrophobic fiber, the moisture-conducting fiber and the hydrophilic fiber is decreased in sequence; f numbers of the hydrophobic fiber yarn, the moisture-conducting fiber yarn and the hydrophilic fiber yarn are sequentially increased; the preparation method comprises the following steps: and (4) selecting a double-sided circular weft knitting machine, knitting the fabric, and then performing tentering treatment on the fabric. The weft-knitted spacer fabric with excellent elasticity and the one-way moisture-conducting function is prepared by the invention, can be used for a competitive racing analog competition garment sports fabric, and solves the problem that a large amount of water vapor generated by a human body cannot be rapidly discharged out of the human body under the condition of high-speed sports.

Description

Three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on knitted structure and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of functional fabrics, and relates to a three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on a knitted structure and a preparation method thereof.
Background
If the sweat is secreted by a human body too much, the sweat cannot be quickly conducted and evaporated by the fabric, so that the human body feels uncomfortable, bacteria can breed on the body surface, and the health of the human body is damaged, so that the physiological comfort of the garment fabric is obviously influenced by the microclimate between the skin and the fabric. Meanwhile, for sportsman's moisture absorption and perspiration performance is of great importance to promotion sportsman's surface fabric because some parts or joints of human body can produce a large amount of sweat steam and sweat, if these sweat moisture do not obtain timely dissipation and discharge, can produce the sensation of moist stifle, influence sportsman's clothing sensation of wearing and the mood of participating in the contest, and then influence sportsman's performance and match score.
In the current literature and patents, there are a large number of fabrics with unidirectional moisture-conducting performance, and how to quickly conduct the obvious sweat to the surface layer of the fabric and quickly obtain evaporation is an important research direction for moisture absorption and sweat releasing. At present, the research aiming at the performance mainly focuses on three implementation modes of moisture absorption and sweat releasing fiber development, fabric structure design and functional finishing, but the research on the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the elastic fabric is rarely related.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the problems in the prior art and provide a three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on a knitted structure and a preparation method thereof, and particularly aims to develop a weft-knitted spacer fabric which has excellent elasticity and a unidirectional moisture-conducting function, so that the weft-knitted spacer fabric can be used as a racing speed analog competition clothing sports fabric, and the problem that a large amount of water vapor generated by a human body cannot be rapidly discharged out of the human body under the condition of high-speed sports is solved.
In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:
a three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on a knitting structure is of a three-layer weft knitting structure, the surface layer is of a double-sided weft knitting structure with tucks, the inner layer is of a single-sided weft knitting plain stitch structure, and the middle layer is of a double-sided tuck structure (the middle layer is used for connecting the surface layer with the inner layer and simultaneously transferring moisture from the inner layer to the surface layer by utilizing a capillary effect);
the surface layer is formed by interweaving hydrophilic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn, the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophilic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are interwoven by first covering yarn, the first covering yarn takes the elastic fiber yarn as core yarn, and the hydrophilic fiber yarn as outer covering yarn; the middle layer is composed of moisture-conductive fiber yarns; the inner layer is formed by interweaving hydrophobic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns, the hydrophobic fiber yarns and the elastic fiber yarns are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophobic fiber yarns are always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarns, or the hydrophobic fiber yarns and the elastic fiber yarns are interwoven to form second covering yarns, the second covering yarns take the elastic fiber yarns as core yarns, and the hydrophobic fiber yarns as outer covering yarns;
the monofilament fineness of the hydrophobic fibers of the inner layer is larger than that of the moisture-conducting fibers of the middle layer, and the monofilament fineness of the moisture-conducting fibers of the middle layer is larger than that of the hydrophilic fibers of the surface layer; the elastic fiber mainly plays a role in generating elasticity, and the single fiber fineness does not need to be considered;
the F number of the hydrophobic fiber yarn of the inner layer is smaller than that of the moisture-conducting fiber yarn of the middle layer, and the F number of the moisture-conducting fiber yarn of the middle layer is smaller than that of the hydrophilic fiber yarn of the surface layer; the elastic fiber in the invention mainly plays a role in generating elasticity, and the F number of the yarn does not need to be considered.
In the prior art, a fabric which has excellent elasticity and a one-way moisture-conducting function has a technical blank. The main reason that the fabric is difficult to take elasticity and one-way moisture-conducting performance into account is that after the elasticity of the fabric is increased, the transverse density and the longitudinal density are increased, so that the pores between fibers are reduced, water vapor is not easy to conduct out of the pores, and the larger the elasticity of the fabric is, the poorer the one-way moisture-conducting performance is.
The invention adjusts the knitting structure of the fabric, adjusts the surface layer from a plain knitting structure to a double-sided weft knitting structure with tucks, and simultaneously, the middle layer is arranged to be a double-sided tuck structure, so that the surface layer and the inner layer are connected through tucks, large pores are generated at the connection part, the three-layer structure is locally changed into a two-layer structure (the surface layer is overlapped with the tucks of the middle layer at the position where the tucks are arranged, so that the surface layer and the middle layer are overlapped to form a two-layer structure), the unidirectional moisture-conducting performance of the fabric can be improved through the structural adjustment, and the unidirectional moisture-conducting performance is prevented from being damaged due to the increase of elasticity.
The fabric has excellent elasticity, because the elastic fibers are introduced into the surface layer and the inner layer, the middle layer only has tucks and does not have knitted loops, and the elasticity of the fabric is not influenced, so that the elastic fibers do not need to be introduced into the middle layer, the middle layer is totally moisture-conductive fibers, the unidirectional moisture-conductive capability of the fabric can be improved, and the unidirectional moisture-conductive capability of the fabric can be reduced if the proportion of the moisture-conductive fibers is reduced after the elastic fibers are mixed;
the fabric of the invention has excellent one-way moisture-conducting performance because: (1) the surface layer is of a double-sided weft knitting structure with tucks, the middle layer is of a double-sided tuck structure, and the surface layer and the middle layer can generate a 1-level differential capillary effect and quickly transfer water vapor to the surface layer; (2) the surface layer is a hydrophilic layer containing hydrophilic fibers, the middle layer is a moisture-conducting layer containing moisture-conducting fibers, the inner layer is a hydrophobic layer containing hydrophobic fibers, a 2-level differential capillary effect can be generated, in the movement process, water vapor is transferred from the hydrophobic layer to the hydrophilic layer, namely from the inner layer to the surface layer, and the moisture-conducting layer plays a role in better assisting water vapor transfer; (3) the monofilament titer of the hydrophobic fiber of the inner layer is greater than that of the moisture-conducting fiber of the middle layer, the monofilament titer of the moisture-conducting fiber of the middle layer is greater than that of the hydrophilic fiber of the surface layer, and a 2-level differential capillary effect can be generated, and in the movement process, water vapor is transferred from a thick layer of single fiber to a thin layer of single fiber, namely from the inner layer to the surface layer; (4) inner layer of hydrophobicThe F number of the sexual fiber yarn is smaller than that of the wet guide fiber yarn in the middle layer, the F number of the wet guide fiber yarn in the middle layer is smaller than that of the hydrophilic fiber yarn in the surface layer, a 2-level differential capillary effect can be generated, and in the moving process, water vapor is transferred from the layer with the smaller F number to the layer with the larger F number, namely from the inner layer to the surface layer; (5) the use of the elastic fiber and the high machine number in the fabric increases the number of yarns in the plane and thickness dimension compared with the common unidirectional moisture-guiding fabric (under the same weaving efficiency of the same machine, under the condition that the width of the fabric is reduced by W% and the length of the fabric is reduced by V% after the elastic fiber is added, the transverse density and the longitudinal density in the plane are increased
Figure BDA0002664174180000021
And
Figure BDA0002664174180000022
because the number of yarns in one loop is not changed, the number of yarns in the plane is correspondingly larger than that of the common unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric, and the higher the elastic fiber content is, the larger the number of yarns in the unit area in the plane is; similarly, the increase of the transverse density and the longitudinal density in the plane causes the yarn angle of the middle layer in the thickness direction to be more vertical to the surface layer and the inner layer, so that the number of yarns in the thickness direction is correspondingly increased; the yarn figure that highly machine number surface fabric's violently close indulges densely packed increase, and in the same way, can increase plane and thickness dimension), with the single fiber quantity in the greatly increased unit length, the pore quantity between the single fiber quantity decision fibre, the single fiber quantity increase can lead to the pore quantity increase to promote capillary effect greatly.
In addition, the elastic fibers in the fabric do not damage the unidirectional moisture-conducting conditions in the steps (1) to (4) after being stretched, so that the fabric still has good unidirectional moisture-conducting performance.
The three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitting structure can also be a four-layer or five-layer weft knitting structure, a knitting method of knitting four-layer or five-layer weft knitting and the like is adopted, one surface or two surfaces of an air layer are knitted by two yarns, one yarn completely covers the other yarn, the formed structure is that one surface can have two layers of yarns, and the effect of four layers or five layers and the like is achieved by adding the middle layer yarn.
As a preferred technical scheme:
the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure has the advantages that the content of elastic fiber yarns in the surface layer is 10-30 wt%; the content range of spandex and other elastic fiber yarns in the existing sports clothes is 5-30 wt%, the proportion of spandex and other elastic fiber yarns in the fabric cannot exceed 30 wt% in consideration of a weaving process, and the content of spandex and other elastic fiber yarns is not less than 10 wt% in consideration of the tight-fitting pressure effect of the racing clothes.
The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure has the advantages that the content of elastic fiber yarns in the inner layer is 10-30 wt%; the content range of spandex and other elastic fiber yarns in the existing sports clothes is 5-30 wt%, the proportion of spandex and other elastic fiber yarns in the fabric cannot exceed 30 wt% in consideration of a weaving process, and the content of spandex and other elastic fiber yarns is not less than 10 wt% in consideration of the tight-fitting pressure effect of the racing clothes.
The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure has the advantages that the monofilament fineness of the hydrophobic fibers in the inner layer is 0.63-2.91D, the monofilament fineness of the moisture-conducting fibers in the middle layer is 0.52-2.08D, and the monofilament fineness of the hydrophilic fibers in the surface layer is 0.10-0.72D.
According to the three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure, the F number of the hydrophobic fiber yarn on the inner layer is 24-48, the F number of the moisture-conducting fiber yarn on the middle layer is 48-96, and the F number of the hydrophilic fiber yarn on the surface layer is 96-288; the F number of the yarn is generally 24-288, and the inner layer, the middle layer and the surface layer are respectively provided with the F numbers which are gradually increased, so that the F number of the inner layer is set to be 24-48, the F number of the middle layer is set to be 48-96, and the F number of the surface layer is set to be 96-288.
According to the three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure, all the hydrophilic fibers are selected from the group consisting of chinlon and hydrophilic chemical fibers formed by a chemical modification method or a physical modification method, the hydrophilic chemical fibers formed by the chemical modification can be chemical fibers modified by grafting copolymerization of hydrophilic groups, and the like, and the hydrophilic chemical fibers formed by the physical modification method can be superfine fibers, hollow microporous fibers and the like; all elastic fibers are selected from spandex and polybutylene terephthalate fibers (PBT fibers); the moisture-conducting fiber is a fiber with a special-shaped cross section, and the special-shaped cross section of the fiber can form a water vapor channel to transfer water vapor from the hydrophobic layer to the hydrophilic layer, namely from the inner layer to the surface layer; all hydrophobic fibers are selected from the group consisting of polyester, polypropylene and acrylic.
According to the three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure, the profiled cross-section fibers are terylene with a triangular, quadralobe, trilobal, multi-lobal, rhombic, hollow or profiled hollow cross section.
The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure has the thickness of 0.8-2 mm and the gram weight of 180-320 g/m2The elongation at break is 30-45%, and the warp/weft elastic modulus is 10-20N/m; measured by GB/T21655.2-2009 test standard (the test indexes comprise wetting time, water absorption, maximum wetting radius of a wetting surface, liquid water diffusion speed of the wetting surface, unidirectional transfer index and liquid water dynamic transfer comprehensive index): before and after the elastic fiber is stretched (the elongation rate is about 10-30%), the unidirectional moisture-conducting performance of the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure reaches more than 3 grades (the original unidirectional moisture-conducting condition is not damaged after the elastic fiber is stretched, so that the fabric still has good unidirectional moisture-conducting capacity), and the unidirectional transmission index reaches more than 350.
The invention also provides a method for preparing the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure, which comprises the steps of selecting a double-sided circular weft knitting machine, knitting the fabric, and carrying out tentering treatment on the fabric to obtain the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure, wherein the tentering treatment can enable the surface of the fabric to form larger pores in a natural state, so that the fabric is ensured to have good unidirectional moisture-conducting performance;
the double-sided circular weft knitting machine is a double-sided rib cotton wool interchange machine with three variable triangles including looping, tucking and floating yarns with the number more than 28 needles, and the parameters are as follows: 2+4 above runway, 30/34 inches of cylinder diameter, 2.4 above per inch of road number; according to a knitting diagram, at least 2 different needles are needed for getting on the runway, and at least 4 different needles are needed for getting off the runway, so that the runway above 2+4 is selected; the cylinder diameter of a common high-machine-number circular knitting machine is 30 or 34 inches, at least 48 paths are needed according to a knitting drawing, a 72-path circular knitting machine can be selected, and for a machine with the cylinder diameter of 30 inches, the number of paths is more than 2.4 per inch;
the weaving process comprises the following steps: 8m paths of circular knitting are adopted, an upper needle disc knits a surface layer, a lower needle disc knits an inner layer, tucking is divided into 2 paths of 1, 1 path of tucking is knitted on the upper needle and the lower needle respectively, and m is the number of times of tucking repetition at the same position of the lower needle during surface layer knitting; selecting a hydrophobic fiber yarn and an elastic fiber yarn to weave an inner layer on a 4n +1 path, wherein the hydrophobic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophobic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting a second covering yarn to weave the inner layer, the inner layer is of a single-side plain stitch structure, and n is 0,1,2 … m-1; selecting hydrophilic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns to weave a surface layer on a 4n +2 path, arranging the hydrophilic fiber yarns and the elastic fiber yarns in a plating mode, and always arranging the hydrophilic fiber yarns in front of the elastic fiber yarns, or selecting first covering yarns to weave the surface layer, knitting the upper dial with full needles, knitting tucks on the lower dial at intervals of v, wherein v is determined according to conditions (v depends on the condition of the number and the interval of large pores, if the number is high, the same interval needs a larger v value, and if the number is the same, the same interval needs a larger pore interval, the larger v value is needed, when the number is 28, the interval can be selected to be 3-5, when the number is 32, the interval is 4-6, when the number is 36, the interval is 5-7, and v is 5-7); the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking on a 4n +3 path, and the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking opposite to the previous path on a 4n +4 path; selecting hydrophobic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn to weave an inner layer on the 4(m + n) +1 paths, arranging the hydrophobic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn in a plating mode, and always arranging the hydrophobic fiber yarn in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting second covering yarn to weave the inner layer, wherein the inner layer is of a single-side plain stitch structure; selecting hydrophilic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn to weave a surface layer on 4(m + n) +2 paths, wherein the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophilic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting first covering yarn to weave the surface layer, knitting an upper dial with full needles, knitting tucks on a lower dial at intervals of v, and dislocating with tucking needles on the 4n +1 path; the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking on 4(m + n) +3 paths, and the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking on 4(m + n) +4 paths opposite to the previous path.
As a preferred technical scheme:
in the method, the process parameters of the tentering treatment are as follows: setting temperature is 175-185 ℃, cloth speed is 10-15 m/min, setting time is 20-90 s, the width of the door is 70-75 cm, the ratio of the width of the door to the original width of the door is 1.3:1, and positive overfeeding is 30-40%.
Has the advantages that:
the fabric with excellent elasticity and moisture absorption and sweat releasing performance is prepared by the yarn raw material configuration, the knitting structure design and the after-finishing process, and is used as the fabric for racing-speed analog racing clothes sports, so that the problem that a large amount of water vapor generated by a human body cannot be quickly discharged out of the human body under the condition of high-speed sports is solved.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a weave diagram of the fabric of example 1;
FIG. 2 is a surface layer form view of the shell fabric of example 1 after being stretched by the tuck structure;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the inner layer of the fabric of example 1 after being stretched by the tuck-stitch structure;
FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of a 2-stage differential capillary effect;
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a 1-stage differential capillary effect;
fig. 6 is a schematic of water vapor transmission for both open (comparative example 1 facing) and dense (example 1 facing).
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
A three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on a knitting structure is of a three-layer weft knitting structure, the surface layer is of a double-sided weft knitting structure with tucks, the inner layer is of a single-sided weft knitting plain stitch structure, and the middle layer is of a double-sided tuck structure (the middle layer is used for connecting the surface layer with the inner layer and simultaneously transferring moisture from the inner layer to the surface layer by utilizing a capillary effect);
the surface layer is formed by interweaving hydrophilic fiber yarn (the hydrophilic fiber is chinlon or hydrophilic chemical fiber which is not formed by a chemical modification method or a physical modification method) and elastic fiber yarn (the elastic fiber is spandex or polybutylene terephthalate fiber), the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophilic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn or is interwoven by first covering yarn, the first covering yarn takes the elastic fiber yarn (the elastic fiber is spandex or polybutylene terephthalate fiber) as core yarn and takes the hydrophilic fiber yarn (the hydrophilic fiber is chinlon or hydrophilic chemical fiber which is not formed by a chemical modification method or a physical modification method) as outer covering yarn; the content of the elastic fiber yarn in the surface layer is 10-30 wt%;
the middle layer is made of moisture-conductive fiber yarn (the moisture-conductive fiber is terylene with a cross section in a triangle shape, a four-leaf shape, a three-leaf shape, a multi-leaf shape, a diamond shape, a hollow shape or a special-shaped hollow shape);
the inner layer is formed by interweaving hydrophobic fiber yarn (the hydrophobic fiber is terylene, polypropylene or acrylic fiber) and elastic fiber yarn (the elastic fiber is spandex or polybutylene terephthalate fiber), the hydrophobic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophobic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn or is formed by interweaving second covering yarn, the second covering yarn takes the elastic fiber yarn (the elastic fiber is spandex or polybutylene terephthalate fiber) as core yarn and the hydrophobic fiber yarn (the hydrophobic fiber is terylene, polypropylene or acrylic fiber) as outer covering yarn; the content of the elastic fiber yarn in the inner layer is 10-30 wt%;
the monofilament fineness of the hydrophobic fibers of the inner layer is greater than that of the moisture-conducting fibers of the middle layer, the monofilament fineness of the moisture-conducting fibers of the middle layer is greater than that of the hydrophilic fibers of the surface layer, specifically, the monofilament fineness of the hydrophobic fibers of the inner layer is 0.63-2.91D, the monofilament fineness of the moisture-conducting fibers of the middle layer is 0.52-2.08D, and the monofilament fineness of the hydrophilic fibers of the surface layer is 0.10-0.72D;
the F number of the hydrophobic fiber yarn of the inner layer is smaller than that of the moisture-conducting fiber yarn of the middle layer, the F number of the moisture-conducting fiber yarn of the middle layer is smaller than that of the hydrophilic fiber yarn of the surface layer, specifically, the F number of the hydrophobic fiber yarn of the inner layer is 24-48, the F number of the moisture-conducting fiber yarn of the middle layer is 48-96, and the F number of the hydrophilic fiber yarn of the surface layer is 96-288.
The three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure has the thickness of 0.8-2 mm and the gram weight of 180-320 g/m2The elongation at break is 30-45%, and the warp/weft elastic modulus is 10-20N/m; measured by GB/T21655.2-2009 test standard (the test indexes comprise wetting time, water absorption, maximum wetting radius of a wetting surface, liquid water diffusion speed of the wetting surface, unidirectional transfer index and liquid water dynamic transfer comprehensive index): before and after the elastic fiber is stretched, the unidirectional moisture-conducting performance of the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure reaches more than 3 grades (the original unidirectional moisture-conducting condition is not damaged after the elastic fiber is stretched, so that the fabric still has good unidirectional moisture-conducting capacity), and the unidirectional transmission index reaches more than 350.
The preparation method of the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure comprises the following steps: after a double-sided circular weft machine is selected, weaving the fabric, and then carrying out tentering treatment on the fabric to obtain the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on a knitted structure, wherein the tentering treatment can enable the surface of the fabric to form larger pores in a natural state, so that the fabric is ensured to have good unidirectional moisture-conducting performance;
the double-sided circular weft knitting machine is a double-sided rib cotton wool interchange machine with three variable triangles including looping, tucking and floating yarns with the number more than 28 needles, and the parameters are as follows: 2+4 above runway, 30/34 inches of cylinder diameter, 2.4 above per inch of road number;
the weaving process comprises the following steps: 8m paths of circular knitting are adopted, an upper needle disc knits a surface layer, a lower needle disc knits an inner layer, tucking is divided into 2 paths of 1, 1 path of tucking is knitted on the upper needle and the lower needle respectively, and m is the number of times of tucking repetition at the same position of the lower needle during surface layer knitting; selecting a hydrophobic fiber yarn and an elastic fiber yarn to weave an inner layer on a 4n +1 path, wherein the hydrophobic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophobic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting a second covering yarn to weave the inner layer, the inner layer is of a single-side plain stitch structure, and n is 0,1,2 … m-1; selecting hydrophilic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn to weave a surface layer on a 4n +2 path, wherein the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophilic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting first covering yarn to weave the surface layer, knitting a full needle on an upper dial, knitting tucking at intervals of v on a lower dial, and v is determined according to the situation; the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking on a 4n +3 path, and the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking opposite to the previous path on a 4n +4 path; selecting hydrophobic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn to weave an inner layer on the 4(m + n) +1 paths, arranging the hydrophobic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn in a plating mode, and always arranging the hydrophobic fiber yarn in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting second covering yarn to weave the inner layer, wherein the inner layer is of a single-side plain stitch structure; selecting hydrophilic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn to weave a surface layer on 4(m + n) +2 paths, wherein the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophilic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting first covering yarn to weave the surface layer, knitting an upper dial with full needles, knitting tucks on a lower dial at intervals of v, and dislocating with tucking needles on the 4n +1 path; the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking on 4(m + n) +3 paths, and the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking opposite to the previous path on 4(m + n) +4 paths;
the process parameters of the tentering treatment are as follows: setting temperature is 175-185 ℃, cloth speed is 10-15 m/min, setting time is 20-90 s, the width of the door is 70-75 cm, the ratio of the width of the door to the original width of the door is 1.3:1, and positive overfeeding is 30-40%.
Example 1
A preparation method of a three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on a knitted structure comprises the following steps: selecting a double-sided circular weft knitting machine, knitting the fabric, and then carrying out tentering treatment on the fabric to obtain a three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on a knitting structure;
the double-sided circular weft knitting machine is a 32-needle high-gauge double-sided rib cotton wool interchange machine with three variable triangles including looping, tucking and floating threads, and the parameters are as follows: 2+4 above runway, 30 inches of cylinder diameter and 2.4 inches of road number;
the weaving process comprises the following steps: 8m paths of circular knitting are adopted, an upper needle disc knits a surface layer, a lower needle disc knits a lining, tucking is divided into 2 paths of 1, 1 path of knitting is respectively carried out on the upper needle and the lower needle, and m is the number of times of tucking repetition at the same position of the lower needle during surface layer knitting (as shown in figure 1, the number of times of tucking repetition at the same position of the surface layer is 6, and the number of times of tucking repetition is 48 paths of one circulation in the whole structure); selecting 50D/36F low-elasticity network yarn polyester yarns and 70D spandex yarns to weave an inner layer on a 4n +1 path, arranging the 50D/36F low-elasticity network yarn polyester yarns and the 70D spandex yarns in a plating mode, always configuring the 50D/36F low-elasticity network yarn polyester yarns in front of the 70D spandex yarns to form a single-side plain stitch structure, and setting n to be 0,1,2 … m-1; selecting 50D/144F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon yarns and 70D spandex yarns to weave a surface layer on a 4n +2 path, arranging the 50D/144F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon yarns and the 70D spandex yarns in a plating mode, always configuring the 50D/144F high-elastic semi-gloss nylon yarns in front of the 70D spandex yarns, fully knitting an upper dial, knitting tucks at intervals of v on a lower dial, and taking v as 3; the 75D/72F low-elasticity network yarn Coolmax weaves 1-interval upper and lower needle tucks on a 4n +3 path, and the 75D/72F low-elasticity network yarn Coolmax weaves 1-interval upper and lower needle tucks on a 4n +4 path opposite to the previous path (as shown in figure 1); selecting 50D/36F low-elasticity network yarn polyester yarns and 70D spandex yarns to weave an inner layer on a 4(m + n) +1 path, arranging the 50D/36F low-elasticity network yarn polyester yarns and the 70D spandex yarns in a plating mode, and always arranging the 50D/36F low-elasticity network yarn polyester yarns in front of the 70D spandex yarns to form a single-side plain stitch structure; selecting 50D/144F high-elastic semi-gloss polyamide yarns and 70D spandex yarns to weave a surface layer on a 4(m + n) +2 path, arranging the 50D/144F high-elastic semi-gloss polyamide yarns and the 70D spandex yarns in a plating mode, always arranging the 50D/144F high-elastic semi-gloss polyamide yarns in front of the 70D spandex yarns, knitting the upper dial with full needles, knitting tucks on the lower dial at intervals of v, and dislocating the tucks with tuck needles on the 4n +1 path; 1-1 upper and lower needle tucks are knitted on the 4(m + n) +3 paths by the 75D/72F low-elasticity network yarn Coolmax, and 1-1 upper and lower needle tucks which are opposite to the previous path are knitted on the 4(m + n) +4 paths by the 75D/72F low-elasticity network yarn Coolmax (as shown in figure 1);
the process parameters of the tentering treatment are as follows: setting temperature is 185 ℃, cloth speed is 15m/min, setting time is 90s, the width of the door is 73cm, the ratio of the width of the door to the original width of the door is 1.3:1, and the positive overfeeding is 30%.
The finally prepared three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitting structure is of a three-layer weft knitting structure, the surface layer is of a double-sided weft knitting structure with tucks, the inner layer is of a single-sided weft knitting plain stitch structure, the middle layer is of a double-sided tuck structure, the content of spandex yarns in the surface layer is 30 wt%, and the content of spandex yarns in the inner layer is 30 wt%; the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure has the thickness of 1mm and the gram weight of 280g/m2The elongation at break is 35%, the warp-direction elastic modulus is 14.6N/m, and the weft-direction elastic modulus is 8.3N/m; measured by GB/T21655.2-2009 test standard: before and after the elastic fiber is stretched, the unidirectional moisture-conducting performance of the fabric reaches 5 grades, and the unidirectional transmission index reaches 350.
The surface morphology of the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure after being stretched by the tuck structure is shown in fig. 2, a region 1 represents a region in the three-layer structure where the surface layer and the inner layer are connected through the tuck structure of the surface layer, a region 2 represents a region in the three-layer structure where the surface layer and the inner layer are not connected through the tuck structure, the schematic diagram of the inner layer is shown in fig. 3, and the 1-level differential capillary effect and the 2-level differential capillary effect corresponding to fig. 3 are respectively shown in fig. 4 and fig. 5.
Comparative example 1
The preparation method of the three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting fabric based on the knitted structure is basically the same as that in the example 1, and the difference is that in the preparation process, 50D/36F low-elasticity interlaced set yarn is used for replacing 70D spandex yarn when the inner layer is knitted, and 50D/144F high-elasticity semi-gloss nylon yarn is used for replacing 70D spandex yarn when the surface layer is knitted.
The finally prepared three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting fabric based on the knitted structure has the thickness of 0.8mm and the gram weight of 220g/m2The elongation at break is 18 percent, the warp-direction elastic modulus is 9.1N/m, and the weft-direction elastic modulus is 5.3N/m; measured by GB/T21655.2-2009 test standard: the unidirectional moisture-conducting performance of the fabric reaches 3 grades, and the unidirectional transmission index reaches 135.
Comparing example 1 with comparative example 1, it can be seen that the elasticity and the one-way moisture-conducting performance of the three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting fabric are greatly improved after spandex is added.
The schematic water vapor transmission diagrams of the fabric prepared in the comparative example 1 and the fabric prepared in the example 1 are shown in fig. 6, and the number of capillaries per unit area of the fabric prepared in the example 1 is greatly increased compared with that of the fabric prepared in the comparative example 1, so that the capillary effect of the fabric prepared in the example 1 is greatly enhanced compared with that of the fabric prepared in the comparative example 1.

Claims (10)

1. A three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on a knitting structure is characterized by being of a three-layer weft knitting structure, wherein the surface layer is of a double-sided weft knitting structure with tucks, the inner layer is of a single-sided weft knitting plain stitch structure, and the middle layer is of a double-sided tuck structure;
the surface layer is formed by interweaving hydrophilic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn, the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophilic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are interwoven by first covering yarn, the first covering yarn takes the elastic fiber yarn as core yarn, and the hydrophilic fiber yarn as outer covering yarn; the middle layer is composed of moisture-conductive fiber yarns; the inner layer is formed by interweaving hydrophobic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns, the hydrophobic fiber yarns and the elastic fiber yarns are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophobic fiber yarns are always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarns, or the hydrophobic fiber yarns and the elastic fiber yarns are interwoven to form second covering yarns, the second covering yarns take the elastic fiber yarns as core yarns, and the hydrophobic fiber yarns as outer covering yarns;
the monofilament titer of the hydrophobic fiber is larger than that of the moisture-conducting fiber, and the monofilament titer of the moisture-conducting fiber is larger than that of the hydrophilic fiber;
the F number of the hydrophobic fiber yarn is smaller than that of the moisture-guiding fiber yarn, and the F number of the moisture-guiding fiber yarn is smaller than that of the hydrophilic fiber yarn.
2. The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure as claimed in claim 1, wherein the content of the elastic fiber yarn in the surface layer is 10-30 wt%.
3. The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure as claimed in claim 1, wherein the content of the elastic fiber yarn in the inner layer is 10-30 wt%.
4. The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure as claimed in claim 1, wherein the monofilament fineness of the hydrophobic fibers is 0.63-2.91D, the monofilament fineness of the moisture-conducting fibers is 0.52-2.08D, and the monofilament fineness of the hydrophilic fibers is 0.10-0.72D.
5. The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure as claimed in claim 1, wherein the F number of the hydrophobic fiber yarn is 24-48, the F number of the moisture-conducting fiber yarn is 48-96, and the F number of the hydrophilic fiber yarn is 96-288.
6. The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure as claimed in claim 1, wherein all the hydrophilic fibers are selected from the group consisting of nylon and hydrophilic chemical fibers formed by a chemical modification method or a physical modification method; all elastic fibers are selected from spandex and polybutylene terephthalate fibers; the moisture-conducting fiber is a fiber with a special-shaped cross section; all hydrophobic fibers are selected from the group consisting of polyester, polypropylene and acrylic.
7. The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure as claimed in claim 6, wherein the profiled cross-section fiber is terylene with a cross section in a triangle shape, a four-leaf shape, a three-leaf shape, a multi-leaf shape, a diamond shape, a hollow shape or a profiled hollow shape.
8. The three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the thickness of the three-dimensional one-way moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure is 0.8 to 2mm, and the gram weight is 180 to 320g/m2The elongation at break is 30-45%, and the warp/weft elastic modulus is 10-20N/m; measured by GB/T21655.2-2009 test standard: before and after the elastic fiber is stretched, the unidirectional moisture-conducting performance of the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure reaches more than 3 grades.
9. The method for preparing the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that after a double-sided circular weft knitting machine is selected, the fabric is knitted, and then the fabric is subjected to tentering treatment to obtain the three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on the knitted structure;
the double-sided circular weft knitting machine is a double-sided rib cotton wool interchange machine with three variable triangles including looping, tucking and floating yarns with the number more than 28 needles, and the parameters are as follows: 2+4 above runway, 30/34 inches of cylinder diameter, 2.4 above per inch of road number;
the weaving process comprises the following steps: 8m paths of circular knitting are adopted, an upper needle disc knits a surface layer, a lower needle disc knits an inner layer, tucking is divided into 2 paths of 1, 1 path of tucking is knitted on the upper needle and the lower needle respectively, and m is the number of times of tucking repetition at the same position of the lower needle during surface layer knitting; selecting a hydrophobic fiber yarn and an elastic fiber yarn to weave an inner layer on a 4n +1 path, wherein the hydrophobic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophobic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting a second covering yarn to weave the inner layer, the inner layer is of a single-side plain stitch structure, and n is 0,1,2 … m-1; selecting hydrophilic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn to weave a surface layer on a 4n +2 path, wherein the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophilic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting first covering yarn to weave the surface layer, knitting a full needle on an upper dial, knitting tucking at intervals of v on a lower dial, and v is determined according to the situation; the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking on a 4n +3 path, and the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking opposite to the previous path on a 4n +4 path; selecting hydrophobic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn to weave an inner layer on the 4(m + n) +1 paths, arranging the hydrophobic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn in a plating mode, and always arranging the hydrophobic fiber yarn in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting second covering yarn to weave the inner layer, wherein the inner layer is of a single-side plain stitch structure; selecting hydrophilic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn to weave a surface layer on 4(m + n) +2 paths, wherein the hydrophilic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are arranged in a plating mode, the hydrophilic fiber yarn is always arranged in front of the elastic fiber yarn, or selecting first covering yarn to weave the surface layer, knitting an upper dial with full needles, knitting tucks on a lower dial at intervals of v, and dislocating with tucking needles on the 4n +1 path; the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking on 4(m + n) +3 paths, and the wet guide fiber yarn weaves 1-1 upper and lower needle tucking on 4(m + n) +4 paths opposite to the previous path.
10. The method according to claim 9, wherein the tentering process has process parameters of: setting temperature is 175-185 ℃, cloth speed is 10-15 m/min, setting time is 20-90 s, the width of the door is 70-75 cm, the ratio of the width of the door to the original width of the door is 1.3:1, and positive overfeeding is 30-40%.
CN202010913479.3A 2020-09-03 2020-09-03 Three-dimensional unidirectional moisture-conducting elastic fabric based on knitted structure and preparation method thereof Pending CN112226888A (en)

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