CN113304086A - 一种多维屏障修复组合物及其制备方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种多维屏障修复组合物，包括功效复合物、渗透平衡剂和溶剂；所述功效复合物包括：功效成分A，能够促进角化包膜和紧密连接蛋白表达的成分；功效成分B，能够提升皮肤自主保湿力的成分；功效成分C，能够激活PPAR受体、强化皮肤脂质屏障的成分；功效成分D，能够调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症的成分；功效成分E，能够平衡表皮微生态的成分；渗透平衡剂包括卵磷脂和/或氢化卵磷脂中的一种或多种，维持所有功效成分安全有效地渗透至皮肤屏障的不同位点，是使组合物发挥功效的重要成分；溶剂包括去离子水和有机溶剂。本发明还公开了一种多维屏障修复组合物的制备方法，其能够实现功效复合物、渗透平衡剂和溶剂在组合物中的有效共溶。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种多维屏障修复组合物及其制备方法，属于医药和化妆品领域。
背景技术
皮肤是人体最大的器官，皮肤屏障就构成了人体和外界最大的一道保护层，既可以减少皮下水分和活性物质的流失，又能够有效缓解外界紫外线、粉尘颗粒等因素带来的刺激。
完整的皮肤屏障通常由三大板块由外而内组成：微生物屏障、物理屏障以及免疫屏障。微生物屏障主要由皮肤表面的益生菌群构成，通过正常的微生物活动形成良好的皮肤微生态；物理屏障即通常所说的角质层，角质层包含了神经酰胺、胆甾醇、游离脂肪酸和卵磷脂等形成紧密的皮脂膜，各层细胞ZO-1、CLDN-1、Caspase14等紧密连接蛋白进行粘连，其间填充透明质酸等天然保湿因子，使皮肤充盈饱满，形成稳定的“砖墙结构”，对外界刺激形成物理阻隔；免疫屏障维持着皮肤对外界刺激的正常响应，当前两道屏障受损，刺激深入免疫屏障导致过度免疫，产生组胺以及IL-1α、IL-8、TNF-α、PGE-2等炎性细胞因子，最终导致皮肤红肿痒痛，进一步影响皮肤正常代谢功能；
皮肤屏障受损的因素主要包括以下途径：1.包含空气污染、紫外线、温湿度等因素在内的外界刺激；2.人为对皮肤不得当的保养，如过度清洁、使用不适合的化妆品等；3.内源性因素，包括情绪、压力等。以上因素共同造成皮肤屏障受损，导致表皮微生态失衡，角质层“砖墙”结构松散，有害微生物侵袭，角质层失水，炎性细胞浸润，皮肤代谢异常，不良情绪和压力增大，这些结果会反过来使皮肤屏障进一步瓦解，形成恶性循环。
由于皮肤屏障受损往往集干燥脱屑、瘙痒炎症、皮脂过剩等多种敏感症状于一体，且引发机制具有多样性，可调控的反应机制也因此较为复杂，市场上虽已有针对屏障修复的护理方案，但往往只包含部分机制，并不全面。更重要的是，屏障受损皮肤和正常皮肤的渗透性具有较大差异，即使适用于正常皮肤的活性物浓度，可能反而会对屏障受损皮肤造成刺激，从而加重受损程度。据相关报道，全球皮肤屏障受损的人群接近56％，且该数字仍在逐年上涨。因此，开发一种经屏障受损皮肤试验、具有适宜渗透性、功效相对全面的屏障修复组合物已成为当下需要解决的问题。
目前市场上屏障修复相关产品主要针对以下几个途径：1：“三明治”结构修复，通过外部涂抹神经酰胺、胆甾醇对皮肤缺失脂质进行填充；2：通过多糖等保湿剂缓解皮肤干燥失水；3：少数报道通过促进细胞分泌相关因子，从而提升皮肤自身屏障能力；虽然以上几个角度可以一定程度上缓解屏障受损程度，但其实皮肤对外源性脂质和保湿剂吸收相对有限，同时，由于细胞实验的测试浓度与化妆品中添加浓度相距甚远，若无相关渗透试验加以佐证，单一从细胞层面修复屏障的可参考性就会较低。
目前未见有报道从安全有效的渗透性角度出发，包含功效成分和渗透平衡剂，且能够多维全面修复皮肤屏障的组合物。
发明内容
本发明的目的是解决现有技术中存在的问题，提供一种多维屏障修复组合物，从促进角化包膜和紧密连接蛋白表达、提升皮肤自主保湿力、强化皮肤脂质、调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症和平衡表皮微生态五个维度出发，对受损屏障全方位有针对性的进行修复，在此基础上增加了渗透平衡剂，并应用一定的制备方法，使该组合物在屏障受损的皮肤上具有适宜的渗透力，既不会对屏障受损的皮肤造成进一步的刺激，又能够全面有效地修复屏障，可以应用于水剂、面膜、膏霜乳液中，能够进行安全有效的渗透，从而达到较好的屏障修复效果。
本发明的另外一个目的是提供一种多维屏障修复组合物的制备方法，能够实现功效复合物、渗透平衡剂和溶剂在组合物中的有效共溶，以及在屏障受损皮肤上安全有效地渗透，从而共同作用实现上述功效，而且保证制剂安全温和可靠，同时该组合物稳定性良好，在室温条件下保存时，不会发生分相，且易于应用在化妆品或医药外用制剂中。
实现上述目的一种技术方案是：一种多维屏障修复组合物，包括以下重量份的组份：
功效复合物 20～50份；
渗透平衡剂 2～20份；
溶剂 30～60份；
所述功效复合物包括：
功效成分A，能够促进角化包膜和紧密连接蛋白表达的成分；
功效成分B，能够提升皮肤自主保湿力的成分；
功效成分C，能够激活PPAR受体、强化皮肤脂质屏障的成分；
功效成分D，能够调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症的成分；
功效成分E，能够平衡表皮微生态的成分；
所述渗透平衡剂包括卵磷脂和/或氢化卵磷脂，所述渗透平衡剂维持所有功效成分安全有效地渗透至皮肤屏障的不同位点，使多维屏障修复组合物发挥功效；
所述溶剂包括去离子水和有机溶剂。
上述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其中，所述功效成分A、功效成分B、功效成分C、功效成分D、功效成分E各占功效复合物总重量的10～30％
上述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其中，所述能够促进角化包膜和紧密连接蛋白表达的成分包括具距石枝藻提取物、红毛丹果皮提取物、麦冬提取物中的一种或多种；
所述能够提升皮肤自主保湿力的成分包括生物类黄酮、水解植物蛋白、长角豆籽提取物、水解三色堇提取物、低聚果糖中的一种或多种；
所述能够激活PPAR受体、强化皮肤脂质屏障的成分包括神经酰胺3、胆甾醇和油脂；
所述能够调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症的成分包括欧泽泻提取物、柑橘皮提取物、β-葡聚糖、玉兰花提取物、牡丹皮提取物、黄芩提取物、矢车菊花提取物中的一种或多种；
所述能够平衡表皮微生态的成分包括乳酸菌发酵溶胞产物、乙酰基七肽-4、酵母提取物、亚麻籽提取物、乳酸杆菌发酵溶胞产物中的一种或多种。
上述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其中，所述能够激活PPAR受体、强化皮肤脂质屏障的成分中，所述神经酰胺3、胆甾醇和油脂的重量比是9∶4∶0.5～9∶4∶2。
上述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其中，所述油脂为油酸、亚油酸、青刺果油、向日葵籽油、向日葵籽油不皂化物中的一种或多种。
上述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其中，所述有机溶剂为1,2-戊二醇、丁二醇和甘油中的一种或多种。
上述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其中，所述去离子水的重量占所述溶剂的总重量的5～20％。
本发明还提供了上述的一种多维屏障修复组合物的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
S1，在称量好的有机溶剂中加入功效成分C，加热至70～75℃，搅拌至完全溶解，随后降温至40～45℃得到预配相1；
S2，将功效成分A、功效成分B、功效成分D、功效成分E以及去离子水常温混合并搅拌均匀，得到预配相2；
S3，将渗透平衡剂均匀铺展于固定平面，使其形成薄膜，缓慢注入预配相1和预配相2，旋转震荡使其水合，即得到所述多维屏障修复组合物。
采用本发明的多维屏障修复组合物的技术方案，从促进角化包膜和紧密连接蛋白表达、提升皮肤自主保湿力、强化皮肤脂质、调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症和平衡表皮微生态五个维度出发，对受损屏障全方位有针对性的进行修复，在此基础上增加了渗透平衡剂，使该组合物在屏障受损的皮肤上具有适宜的渗透力，既不会对屏障受损的皮肤造成进一步的刺激，又能够全面有效地修复屏障，同时该组合物在室温条件下保存时稳定性保持良好。
采用本发明的多维屏障修复组合物的制备方法的技术方案，其能够实现功效复合物、渗透平衡剂和溶剂在组合物中的有效共溶，以及在屏障受损皮肤上进行安全有效的渗透，从而共同作用达到坚固角质细胞、强化脂质屏障、提升自主保湿力、调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症、平衡皮肤微生态的功效，同时使得该组合物在室温条件下保存时稳定性保持良好。
附图说明
图1为免疫荧光法测定紧密连接蛋白含量实验中ZO-1蛋白的积分光密度图；
图2为免疫荧光法测定紧密连接蛋白含量实验中CLDN1蛋白的积分光密度图。
图3为EpiKuits表皮模型测定角化包膜试验中FLG蛋白的积分光密度图。
图4为EpiKuits表皮模型测定角化包膜试验中LOR蛋白的积分光密度图。
图5为EpiKuits表皮模型测定个角化包膜试验中TGM1蛋白的积分光密度图。
具体实施方式
为了使本技术领域的技术人员能更好地理解本发明的技术方案，下面结合附图对其具体实施方式进行详细地说明：
表1
按照表1的配方制备实施例1～5的多维屏障修复组合物，具体的制备工艺为：
S1，将称量好的有机溶剂中加入功效成分C，加热至70～75℃，搅拌至完全溶解，随后降温至40～45℃得到预配相1；
S2，将功效成分A、功效成分B、功效成分D、功效成分E以及去离子水常温混合并搅拌均匀，得到预配相2；
S3，将渗透平衡剂均匀铺展于固定平面，使其形成薄膜，缓慢注入预配相1和预配相2，旋转震荡使其水合，即得到所述多维屏障修复组合物。
本发明的多维屏障修复组合物，针对皮肤屏障修复机理，从五个维度出发，对受损屏障全方位有针对性的进行修复，其中，具距石枝藻提取物、红毛丹果皮提取物、麦冬提取物能够激活CLDN-1、PAD1、ZO-1、内皮蛋白、兜甲蛋白等紧密连接和角化包膜蛋白，同时促进角化包膜相关基因的表达，从而达到坚固角质细胞的作用，为功效成分A；生物类黄酮、水解植物蛋白、长角豆籽提取物、水解三色堇提取物、低聚果糖能够激活AQP 3水通道蛋白赫和VDR信号传导，增加透明质酸受体CD44合成，促进内源性透明质酸生成，调节Ca2+流量，平衡细胞渗透压，从而提升皮肤自主保湿能力，为功效成分B；神经酰胺3、胆甾醇、油酸、亚油酸、青刺果油、向日葵籽油、向日葵籽油不皂化物能够形成仿生皮脂膜，并激活PPAR-α受体，改善皮肤自身代谢能力，从而强化皮肤脂质屏障，为功效成分C；欧泽泻提取物、柑橘皮提取物、玉兰花提取物、牡丹皮提取物、β-葡聚糖、黄芩提取物、矢车菊花提取物能够减少组胺和IL-1α、IL-8、TNF-α、PGE-2等炎性细胞因子表达，抑制JAK/STAT6通路，降低COX-2活性，中和趋化因子，调节免疫屏障，从而起到修复抗炎的作用,为功效成分D；乳酸菌发酵溶胞产物、乙酰基七肽-4、酵母提取物、亚麻籽提取物、乳酸杆菌发酵溶胞产物能够给皮肤提供有益微生物喜欢的益生元和益生素，促进有益微生物群的生长，抵御有害微生物的侵袭，从而平衡表皮生态环境,为功效成分E。
本发明特别重视功效成分在屏障受损皮肤上的渗透功效和温和性，相比具有完整屏障功效的健康皮肤，屏障受损的皮肤对外源物刺激的响应会更加强烈，其中包括功效成分带来的有利影响，因此本发明在针对不同机理全方位设计功效复合物的基础上，设计了渗透平衡剂，渗透平衡剂包括卵磷脂和/或氢化卵磷脂，渗透平衡剂维持所有功效成分安全有效地渗透至皮肤屏障的不同位点，使多维屏障修复组合物发挥功效。
本发明的多维屏障修复组合物中，溶剂包括去离子水和有机溶剂，在多维屏障修复组合物的制备方法中，去离子水和有机溶剂的作用不同，有机溶剂与功效成分C溶解后得到预配相1；将功效成分A、功效成分B、功效成分D、功效成分E以及去离子水常温混合并搅拌均匀后得到预配相2；将渗透平衡剂均匀铺展于固定平面，使其形成薄膜，缓慢注入预配相1和预配相2，旋转震荡使其水合，即得到多维屏障修复组合物，这种制备方法，使多维屏障修复组合物形成部分包裹、整体具有浓度梯度的剂型，且用于包裹的原料(即渗透平衡剂)自身具有修护皮脂和保湿的功效，最终达到事半功倍的屏障修复效果。
本发明的多维屏障修复组合物及其制备方法，其能够实现功效复合物、渗透平衡剂和溶剂在组合物中的有效共溶，以及在屏障受损皮肤上进行安全有效的渗透，从而共同作用达到坚固角质细胞、强化脂质屏障、提升自主保湿力、调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症、平衡皮肤微生态的功效，同时该组合物在室温条件下保存时稳定性保持良好。
稳定性考察测试：
对实施例1～5的多维屏障修复组合物的进行稳定性考察测试，依次在25℃、40℃、49℃、-15℃和5℃条件下，分别测试30天，60天及90天，观察一种多维屏障修复组合物的分相情况，测试结果如表2所示：
表2
表2中，实施例1～5的多维屏障修复组合物在25℃、40℃、49℃、-15℃、5℃的条件下，90天均未发生分相，说明本发明的多维屏障修复组合物稳定性良好。
安全性评价：
多次皮肤刺激试验：
对实施例1～5的多维屏障修复组合物进行多次皮肤刺激试验，每个实施例均选择4只白色豚鼠进行实验，试验室温度：20-24℃，相对湿度：60-70％。试验前约24h，将实验动物背部脊柱两侧被毛剪掉，去毛范围各为2cm×3cm，涂抹面积2.5cm×2.5cm。取受试物约0.5mL涂抹在一侧皮肤上，当受试物使用无刺激性溶剂配制时，另一侧涂溶剂作为对照，每天涂抹1次，连续涂抹14天。从第二天开始，每次涂抹前应剪毛，用水或无刺激性溶剂清除残留受试物，一小时后观察结果。参照《化妆品安全技术规范(2015版)》规定进行刺激反应评分。急性皮肤刺激试验结果如表3所示：
表3
由表3急性皮肤刺激试验结果可知，实施例1～5的多维屏障修复组合物对豚鼠的急性皮肤刺激试验，均未见刺激性反应。因此本发明的多维屏障修复组合物，具有良好的安全性。
急性眼刺激试验：
选取实施例4的多维屏障修复组合物进行急性眼刺激试验，选择3只健康成年白色家兔进行试验，试验室温度：20-24℃，相对湿度：60-70％。试验前动物要在实验动物房环境中至少适应3天时间。轻轻拉开家兔一侧眼睛的下眼睑，将受试物0.1mL(100mg)滴入(或涂入)结膜囊中，使上、下眼睑被动闭合1s，以防止受试物丢失。另一侧眼睛不处理作自身对照。滴入受试物后24小时内不冲洗眼睛。若认为必要，在24h时可进行冲洗。若上述试验结果显示受试物有刺激性，需另选用3只家兔进行冲洗效果试验，即给家兔眼滴入受试物后30s用足量、流速较快但又不会引起动物眼损伤的水流冲洗至少30s。在滴入受试物后1、24、48、72小时以及第4滴和第7滴对动物眼睛进行检查。如果72小时未出现刺激反应，即可终止试验。如果发现累及角膜或有其它眼刺激作用，7天内不恢复者，为确定该损害的可逆性或不可逆性需延长观察时间，一般不超过21天。参照《化妆品安全技术规范(2015版)》规定进行刺激反应评分。急性眼刺激试验结果见表4：
表4
由表4的急性眼刺激实验结果可知，实施例4的多维屏障修复组合物对家兔的眼刺激性试验未见刺激性反应。因此本发明的多维屏障修复组合物具有良好的安全性。
功效性评价(紧密连接蛋白)：
请参阅图1和图2，采用免疫荧光法利用角质形成细胞测定紧密连接蛋白增量实验。首先进行MTT细胞毒性试验，得到最佳的样品测试浓度，参照该浓度进行下一步试验。以DMEM培养基和胎牛血清配置完全培养基，将复苏角质形成细胞接种于10cm培养盘，加入培养基后于二氧化碳培养箱孵育，后取形态良好的细胞支撑细胞悬液，接种于24孔板，于二氧化碳培养箱孵育24h后，加入经MTT试验验证的最佳浓度并稀释过的受试物即多维屏障修复组合物，并设置空白对照组，于二氧化碳培养箱中培养24h后，取上清液，通过免疫荧光法测定ZO-1和CLND1蛋白含量。细胞试验中ZO-1蛋白的生成量变化参见图1，CLND1蛋白的生成量变化参见图2，其中TJ05为使用多维屏障修复组合物实施例2样品溶液；BC组为空白对照；剩余组别为与本专利无关的其他样品。
功效性评价(角化包膜)：
请参阅图3、图4和图5，采用免疫荧光法法利用EpiKuits表皮模型测定角化包膜增量。将表皮模型转移至液体维持培养基中37℃稳定过夜培养18h，将表皮进行SLS处理形成化学敏感模型，然后将待测样品的多维屏障修复组合物溶液在模型上进行孵育24h，用DPBS将待测样品清洗，并用棉签将皮肤模型表面擦干，将皮肤模型用打孔器取下，分别用于切片组织石蜡包埋和RNA抽提，后者至Trizol溶液中-80℃条件下保存并进行后续蛋白含量测定。EpiKuits表皮模型试验中，FLG蛋白的生成量变化参见图3，LOR蛋白的生成量变化参见图4，TGM1蛋白的生成量变化参见图5。其中CE02为涂抹多维屏障修复组合物实施例2样品溶液后使用SLS进行刺激；BC组为空白对照；NC组为直接进行SLS刺激；PC组为使用SLS进行刺激后再使用地塞米松乳膏，作为阳性对照；SLS为十二烷基磺酸钠；剩余组别为与本专利无关的其他样品。
紧密连接蛋白和角化包膜测试实验结果显示，实施例2的多维屏障修复组合物样品能够显著促ZO-1、CLDN1和FLG、LOR、TGM1的生成，证明本方案具有促进紧密连接蛋白和角化包膜生成的功效。
综上所述，本发明的多维屏障修复组合物及其制备方法的技术方案，在功效性成分的基础上上增加了渗透平衡剂，使该组合物在屏障受损的皮肤上具有适宜的渗透力，能够很好地促进角化包膜和紧密连接蛋白表达、提升皮肤自主保湿力、强化皮肤脂质、调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症和平衡表皮微生态，对受损屏障全方位有针对性的进行修复，既不会对屏障受损的皮肤造成进一步的刺激，又能够全面有效地修复屏障，而且保证制剂安全温和可靠，同时该组合物在室温条件下保存时稳定性保持良好。
本技术领域中的普通技术人员应当认识到，以上的实施例仅是用来说明本发明，而并非用作为对本发明的限定，只要在本发明的实质精神范围内，对以上所述实施例的变化、变型都将落在本发明的权利要求书范围内。
Claims (8)
1.一种多维屏障修复组合物，其特征在于，包括以下重量份的组份：
功效复合物20～50份；
渗透平衡剂2～20份；
溶剂30～60份；
所述功效复合物包括：
功效成分A，能够促进角化包膜和紧密连接蛋白表达的成分；
功效成分B，能够提升皮肤自主保湿力的成分；
功效成分C，能够激活PPAR受体、强化皮肤脂质屏障的成分；
功效成分D，能够调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症的成分；
功效成分E，能够平衡表皮微生态的成分；
所述渗透平衡剂包括卵磷脂和/或氢化卵磷脂，所述渗透平衡剂维持所有功效成分安全有效地渗透至皮肤屏障的不同位点，使多维屏障修复组合物发挥功效；
所述溶剂包括去离子水和有机溶剂。
2.如权利要求1所述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其特征在于，所述功效成分A、功效成分B、功效成分C、功效成分D、功效成分E各占功效复合物总重量的10～30％。
3.如权利要求1或2所述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其特征在于，所述能够促进角化包膜和紧密连接蛋白表达的成分包括具距石枝藻提取物、红毛丹果皮提取物、麦冬提取物中的一种或多种；
所述能够提升皮肤自主保湿力的成分包括生物类黄酮、水解植物蛋白、长角豆籽提取物、水解三色堇提取物、低聚果糖中的一种或多种；
所述能够激活PPAR受体、强化皮肤脂质屏障的成分包括神经酰胺3、胆甾醇和油脂；
所述能够调节免疫屏障并减轻皮肤炎症的成分包括欧泽泻提取物、柑橘皮提取物、β-葡聚糖、玉兰花提取物、牡丹皮提取物、黄芩提取物、矢车菊花提取物中的一种或多种；
所述能够平衡表皮微生态的成分包括乳酸菌发酵溶胞产物、乙酰基七肽-4、酵母提取物、亚麻籽提取物、乳酸杆菌发酵溶胞产物中的一种或多种。
4.如权利要求3所述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其特征在于，所述能够激活PPAR受体、强化皮肤脂质屏障的成分中，所述神经酰胺3、胆甾醇和油脂的重量比是9∶4∶0.5～9∶4∶2。
5.如权利要求4所述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其特征在于，所述油脂为油酸、亚油酸、青刺果油、向日葵籽油、向日葵籽油不皂化物中的一种或多种。
6.如权利要求1所述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其特征在于，所述有机溶剂为1,2-戊二醇、丁二醇和甘油中的一种或多种。
7.如权利要求1所述的一种多维屏障修复组合物，其特征在于，所述去离子水的重量占所述溶剂的总重量的5～20％。
8.如权利要求1所述的一种多维屏障修复组合物的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
S1，在称量好的有机溶剂中加入功效成分C，加热至70～75℃，搅拌至完全溶解，随后降温至40～45℃得到预配相1；
S2，将功效成分A、功效成分B、功效成分D、功效成分E以及去离子水常温混合并搅拌均匀，得到预配相2；
S3，将渗透平衡剂均匀铺展于固定平面，使其形成薄膜，缓慢注入预配相1和预配相2，旋转震荡使其水合，即得到所述多维屏障修复组合物。
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