CN1130192C - Cosmetics composition contg. silicon deriv. having benzotriazole functional group and triester of benzenetricarboxylic acid, and use thereof - Google Patents

Cosmetics composition contg. silicon deriv. having benzotriazole functional group and triester of benzenetricarboxylic acid, and use thereof Download PDF

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CN1130192C
CN1130192C CN99120234A CN99120234A CN1130192C CN 1130192 C CN1130192 C CN 1130192C CN 99120234 A CN99120234 A CN 99120234A CN 99120234 A CN99120234 A CN 99120234A CN 1130192 C CN1130192 C CN 1130192C
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benzenetricarboxylic acid
esters
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CN1249172A (en
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P·阿尔诺
M·维尔德
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/57Compounds covalently linked to a(n inert) carrier molecule, e.g. conjugates, pro-fragrances
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001Preparations for care of the lips

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having improved light defendence functional for protecting skins and/or lips and/or growing parts on the body surface for part usage. The characteristic of the composition suited for carriers of the cosmetic including (i) at least one of silicone derivatives having benzotriazole functional groups as a lipophilic organic shielding agent and (ii) at least one of tribenzoic acid triesters containing an amount sufficiently dissolving all the component. Using the composition can protect skin, lips, hair, eyelashes, eyebrow or nail against ultraviolet rays.

Description

Contain the silicon derivative with benzotriazole functional group and the cosmetic composition and the application thereof of benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters
Technical field
The present invention relates to local the use, especially protect skin and/or lip and/or body surface growth-gen to avoid the novel cosmetic compositions of ultraviolet radiation (for the sake of simplicity, hereinafter being referred to as sunscreen composition), with and purposes in multiple cosmetics.More particularly; the present invention relates to the improved compositions of light-protection energy; wherein contain in can improving looks with carrier: (i) at least a have the silicon derivative of benzotriazole functional group as the agent of lipotropy organic sunscreen; the specificity oil that (ii) exists, suitably select, i.e. benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters with scheduled volume.
Background technology
The light radiation meeting of known wavelength between 280nm and 400nm is tanned people's epidermis, and the known light of wavelength between 280nm and 320nm as UV-B light can make skin burn and erythema occur, and this impairs the colour of skin after the Exposure to Sunlight; Therefore should the filtering uv b radiation.
The known UV-A light of wavelength between 320nm and 400nm of skin tanning that causes is easy to lure into that unfavorable variation takes place skin, especially for sensitive skin or to continue to be exposed to sun-exposed skin all the more so.UV-A light especially can cause the forfeiture of skin elasticity and wrinkle occur, causes skin senilism.In some individualities, UV-A light can impel the erythema reaction to take place or increase the weight of this reaction, even may cause phototoxic reaction or photoallergic reaction.Therefore also need filtering UV-A radiation.
Up to now, developed and manyly be used to protect skin to avoid the cosmetic composition of light radiation (UV-A and/or UV-B light).
Character according to selected pharmaceutical dosage form, these sunscreen compositions contain variable concentrations one or more can optionally absorb the lipotropy and/or the agent of hydrophilic organic sunscreen of UV harmful radiation, these sunscreen (with its consumption) are as (representing with mathematical expression that the function of required protection factor is selected, protection factor (PF) reaches erythema when using the UV sunscreen and forms the required radiated time of threshold value, reaches the ratio that erythema forms the required radiated time of threshold value when not using the UV sunscreen).
Have been found that at patent application EP-A-0392883; EP-A-0660701; EP-A-0708108; EP-A-0711778; Described among the EP-A-0711779 in sun care preparations effective especially, and the lipotropy organic sunscreen agent that all has high activity for UV-A scope and UV-B scope light.
These sunscreen are silane or the polysiloxane that contain benzotriazole functional group.They have above-mentioned characteristic feature, at room temperature are solids but shortcoming is them.Therefore, they in cosmetic composition be applied in its preparation and use aspect, especially seeking and can be subjected to certain limitation aspect its dissolved well solvent.Owing to this respect reason, the cosmetic composition of these sunscreen is normally by oil at present, for example ester, especially C 12-C 15Alkyl benzoate (" Finsolv TN " is available from Finetex), or triglyceride, especially C 8-C 12Fatty acid triglycercide (" Miglyol 812 " are available from H ü ls), or by monohydric alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, ethanol for example, with and composition thereof make.Though above-mentioned sunscreen has property of solubilizing, yet these products still have such shortcoming, aspect filtering UV radiation, no matter are UV-A radiation uv b radiations promptly, all do not have intrinsic activity.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to address the above problem.
Benzenetricarboxylic acid three ester type oil, three decyls 1,2 for example, the application of 4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters in many cosmetic formulations that contain the fat phase is well-known.Its application in lip pomade has been described in patent application EP-A-0792637 especially.Its application in preparing the anhydrous cosmetic preparation that does not contain mineral oil has also been described in patent application EP-A-0194055.
In United States Patent (USP) 4940577, benzenetricarboxylic acid three ester type line of oils have become water content very low, and contain the fat phase of essential specific phosphate ester as the water-in-oil type clear microemulsion agent of unique emulsifying agent.These microemulsions are used in especially with organic uv filter, are the sunscreen product of host and in pitch-dark product as para-amino benzoic acid octyl group dimethyl ester, cinnamic acid monooctyl ester, ethylhexyl salicylate or 3-benzophenone.
In United States Patent (USP) 4940574, benzenetricarboxylic acid three ester type oil also are used in the anhydrous sunscreen product with height protective as emulsifying agent, and wherein said product contains the agent of two kinds of UV-B organic sunscreens and the agent of diphenyl ketone type UV-A organic sunscreen that are selected from cinnamate, salicylate and p-aminobenzoate and combines in silicone oil.
Through having carried out broad research in above-mentioned photoprotection field, the applicant has been found that, wondrous and beyond thoughtly be, by being included in the silicon derivative type lipotropy UV sunscreen that contains benzotriazole functional group in the photoprotection cosmetic composition, specificity oil with suitable selection, be that benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters are united use, can improve the photoprotection performance of this class lipotropy UV sunscreen in essence, the content of wherein this oil in described compositions is by the amount that himself is enough to dissolve all described sunscreen.
This discovery has formed basis of the present invention.
Therefore, according to a theme of the present invention, the invention provides new type of cosmetic or Dermatology compositions, its essential features is, it is being suitable for beauty treatment to contain (i) at least a at least a benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters that contain the silicon derivative type lipotropy UV sunscreen of benzotriazole functional group and (ii) exist with the amount that himself is enough to dissolve all described sunscreen in carrier.
A theme of the present invention is that this compositions is used to protect skin and/or lip and/or body surface growth-gen in production, avoids ultraviolet radiation as hair, eyelashes, eyebrow or fingernail, the application in the especially sun-exposed compositions.
At last; another theme of the present invention is; in order to improve the photoprotection performance of following compositions; at least a benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters are used to protect skin and/or lip and/or body surface growth-gen in preparation; avoid the application in the cosmetic composition of ultraviolet radiation as hair, eyelashes, eyebrow or fingernail; wherein contain the radiating system of filtering UV in the compositions, described system is made up of at least a silicon derivative that contains benzotriazole functional group.
By reading following detailed description, can recognize further feature of the present invention, main points and advantage very clearly.
The silicon derivative that contains benzotriazole functional group that uses among the present invention is preferably and comprises unitary silane or the siloxanes that contains benzotriazole functional group of at least one following formula (1):
O (3-a)/2Si (R 1) a-G (1) is wherein :-R 1The C that representative is optionally replaced by halogen 1-C 10Alkyl, or phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy ,-a are to be selected between 0 to 3 and to comprise 0 and 3 integer, and-symbol G represents the monoradical that directly links to each other with silicon atom to be equivalent to the group shown in the following formula (2):
Figure C9912023400101
Wherein :-Y can be identical or different group, and is selected from C 1-C 8Alkyl, halogen and C 1-C 4Alkoxyl should be clear and definite, and (Y represents C under one situation of back 1-C 4During alkoxyl), two adjacent Y on same aromatic rings can form alkylenedioxy group together, and wherein said alkylidene contains 1 or 2 carbon atoms, and-X represents O or NH, and-Z represents hydrogen or C 1-C 4Alkyl ,-n be between 0 to 3 and comprise 0 and 3 integer, and-m is 0 or 1, and-p is between 1 to 10 and comprises 1 and 10 integer.
These chemical compounds are described in patent application EP-A-0392833 especially; EP-A-0660701; EP-A-0708108; EP-A-0711778; Among the EP-A-0711779.
The silicon derivative that uses in the context of the invention is preferably the special benzotriazole silicone analog derivative of describing among the EP-A-0660701.
Being particularly suited for implementing benzotriazole silicone analog derivative of the present invention is the chemical compound shown in following facial (3) or (4):
Figure C9912023400111
Or
Figure C9912023400112
Wherein :-R 2Can be identical or different group, and be selected from C 1-C 10Alkyl, phenyl, 3,3,3-trifluoro propyl and trimethylsiloxy wherein in number, have 80% R at least 2Group is a methyl, and-D can be identical or different group, and is selected from R 2And G,-r is between 0 to 50 and comprises 0 and 50 integer, s is between 0 to 20 and comprises 0 and 20 integer, and when s=0, two symbol D have one at least, and to represent G ,-u be between 1 to 6 and comprise 1 and 6 integer, t is between 0 to 10 and comprises 0 and 10 integer, it should be explicitly made clear at this point that t+u is more than or equal to 3 ,-symbol G is identical with the G definition in the formula (2).
As the formula (2), according to the present invention, chain element-(X) m-(CH 2) p-CH (Z)-CH 2-be connected with benzotriazole is unitary, can occur on all positions that can connect of two aromatic rings of benzotriazole, this connection will guarantee that described benzotriazole unit links to each other with the silicon atom of siloxane chain.
Figure C9912023400121
This connection preferably occurs on 3,4,5 (being connected with the aromatic rings of hydroxy functional group) or 4 ' (phenyl ring that adjoins with triazole ring), more preferably occurs on 3,4 or 5.In a preferred embodiment of the invention, this connection occurs on 3.
Similar ground, the unitary connection of substituent group unit or Y can occur on other all positions that can connect of benzotriazole.Yet this connection preferably occurs on 3,4,4 ', 5 and/or 6.In preferred implementation of the present invention, the Y unit is connected on 5.
In above-mentioned formula (3) and formula (4), alkyl can be the straight or branched alkyl, especially is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-pro-pyl, isopropyl, normal-butyl, isobutyl group, the tert-butyl group, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl and uncle's octyl group.According to the present invention, preferred R 2Alkyl is methyl, ethyl, propyl group, normal-butyl, n-octyl and 2-ethylhexyl.More preferably R 2It all is methyl.
In above-mentioned formula (3) and formula (4) chemical compound, preferably use formula (3) chemical compound, that is to say, contain two organosiloxanes of short straight chain.
In above-mentioned formula (3) chemical compound, preferably using two D all is R 2The chemical compound of group.
In straight chain two organosiloxanes in belonging to the scope of the invention, have at least one, more preferably the random derivant of all following characteristics or the block derivant that is limited rightly are more particularly preferred :-D is R 2Group ,-R 2Be alkyl, be more preferably methyl ,-r is between 0 to 15 and comprises 0 and 15 integer; S is between 1 to 10 and comprises 1 and 10 integer, and-n is not 0, preferably equals 1, and Y is selected from methyl, the tert-butyl group and C 1-C 4Alkoxyl ,-Z are hydrogen or methyl ,-m=0 or [m=1 and X=0]-p=1
Being specially adapted to a class benzotriazole silicone of the present invention is the chemical compound shown in the following general formula (5):
Figure C9912023400131
0≤r≤10 wherein,
1≤s≤10,
And E represents the following formula divalent group:
Figure C9912023400132
In the particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, benzotriazole silicone is the chemical compound shown in the following formula (remainder in this description is referred to as chemical compound (a)): Chemical compound (a)
United States Patent (USP) 3220972,3697473,4340709,4316033 and 4328346 and patent application EP-A-0392883 and EP-A-0742003 in the method that is suitable for preparing above-mentioned formula (1), (2), (3), (4) and (5) chemical compound has been described especially.
In compositions of the present invention, by the gross weight of compositions, the content that contains the silicon derivative sunscreen of benzotriazole functional group is 0.1%-20%, is preferably 0.2%-15%.According to essential features of the present invention, no matter these chemical compounds are unification compound or mixture, all should be whole or whole basically dissolved forms in the compositions finished product.
Benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters that use according to the present invention are selected from three esters of benzenetricarboxylic acid and the straight or branched that contains 3-30 carbon atom, preferred 8-18 carbon atom, saturated or unsaturated alcohol formation usually.Represent these benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters with following general formula (I):
Figure C9912023400142
Wherein the R representative contains straight or branched, the saturated or unsaturated alkyl of 3-30 carbon atom, preferred 8-18 carbon atom.
Benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters more preferably are selected from 1,2 shown in the following general formula (II), 4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters: Wherein the same general formula of the definition of R (I) is described, they are preferably especially :-2-ethylhexyl 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters, for example produce the commercially available prod of commodity BisoflexTOT by name by international chemical specialities company (International Speciality Chemical);-decyl 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters;-three isodecyl 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters are for example produced the commercially available prod of commodity Dub TMI by name by Stearineries Dubois company;-2-butyl hexyl 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters are for example produced the commercially available prod of commodity Isofol Ester 1293 by name by Condea company;-three decyls 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters are for example produced the commercially available prod of commodity Liponate TDTM by name by Lipo chemical company;-or its mixture.
According to the gross weight meter of compositions, the content of specificity oil in the compositions finished product that the present invention uses is 0.1%-99%, is preferably 0.5%-50%.
According to the essential features of the present composition, the consumption of benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters in compositions must be himself to be enough to make the silane that contains benzotriazole functional group or siloxanes sunscreen all or whole basically dissolved amounts.Usually can be by measuring the dissolubility of described solid sunscreen in oil solvent, determine to guarantee that the solid sunscreen is all and stablize the minimum amount of dissolved oil solvent.
Usually, it is pointed out that the choosing of concentration of sunscreen and oil, make the sun protection factor of compositions finished product preferably be at least 2.
According to the present invention, benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters/contain benzotriazole functional group uniting of silicon derivative type UV sunscreen make effect increase manyfold, and relate to all cosmetics and skin product.
Cosmetics of the present invention or Dermatology can be solid dosage forms, paste or liquid dosage form anhydrous or the Emulsion form with compositions.
Therefore, compositions of the present invention can be any pharmaceutical dosage form, the especially oil preparation of local application; Suspension; The two-phase product, oil-in-water or Water-In-Oil dispersion; Simple type or multiple emulsion (oil-in-water, Water-In-Oil, W/O/W or Water-In-Oil oil-in Emulsion) are as cream frost, emulsion, gel cream, ointment or ointment; The vesicle dispersion; Powder; Casting or molded solid are as stick or compacted products; Foam or spray.
According to the character of used activating agent, compositions of the present invention can be effectively used to make up, and/or treatment people's face and body skin, and lip and body surface growth-gen are as hair, eyelashes, eyebrow and fingernail.
Compositions of the present invention especially can be made pipe dress lip pomade, lip pomade optical brightener, and this lip pomade optical brightener can directly be used or be coated on the film of lip pomade, specifically increases the gloss (being referred to as top coat) of lip pomade.Compositions of the present invention also can be made into the liquid or solid foundation cream, and cover cosmetics or be used for retouching the cosmetics of eye contour, eyeliner, mascara, kermes, eye shadow cream, nial polish, loose powder, health applies some make up, or skin care or cleaning product, as abrasive item.Especially in order to make compositions have maintenance and curative properties, compositions of the present invention also can contain cosmetic activity agent or treatment dermatosis activating agent.
More particularly, theme of the present invention is to contain the lip product that above-mentioned two classes are united the chemical compound of use at least.
Compositions of the present invention also can contain cosmetics adjuvant commonly used, especially be selected from aliphatic material, organic solvent, ion-type or nonionic thickener, softening agent, antioxidant, especially remove the free radical antioxidant, opacifier, stabilizing agent, emollient, siloxanes, fluorine compounds, 'alpha '-hydroxy acids, defoamer, wetting agent, vitamin, spice, antiseptic, surfactant, pigment, pearling agent, filler, chelating agen, polymer, propellant, basifier or acidulant, dyestuff or other composition commonly used in cosmetics.
Term " pigment " is interpreted as expression white or colored inorganic or organic granular, and they are insoluble in mutually at liquid fat, be used for painted and/or make compositions opaque to compositions.That term " filler " is interpreted as is colourless or white, inorganic or organic, stratiform or non-laminate granular.Term " pearling agent " is interpreted as representing claimed flare pellet, especially the claimed flare pellet that produces in some mollusk shells or other synthetic claimed flare pellet.These filleies and pearling agent are to be used for specifically improving the quality of compositions.
Can be used for inorganic pigment of the present invention, what can mention is titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and zinc oxide, ferrum oxide or chromium oxide and barba hispanica (ferric blue).Can be used for organic pigment of the present invention, what can mention is white carbon black and barium color lake, strontium color lake, calcium color lake (DC Red No.7) and aluminum color lake.
Can be used for the first agent of pearl of the present invention, what can mention is the Muscovitum that coating has titanium dioxide, ferrum oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride, for example coloured odenite.
May be particularly mentioned Talcum, Muscovitum, kaolin, nylon (especially Orgasol) powder, polyethylene powders, politef, starch, boron nitride, copolymer microsphere such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), Polytrap (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microballon (for example Tospearl of Toshiba company production).
According to the concrete application of being faced, the aliphatic material that can be used for the present composition is selected from oil, wax and natural gum or its mixture usually.
Described oil can be hydrocarbon-type oil and/or silicone oil and/or fluoro oil.These oil can derive from animal, plant, mineral or obtain by synthetic.The example that can be used for oil of the present invention, what can mention is hydro carbons animal oil, for example perhydro-squalene; Hydro carbons vegetable oil or artificial oil, the fatty acid triglycercide that for example has 4-22 carbon atom, as D3-C7 or Trivent OCG, hydrogenated coconut triglyceride and caprylic/capric triglyceride, this series products of selling by StearineriesDubois company for example, or sell and the product of commodity Miglyol 810,812 by name and 818 by Dynamit company; Derive from mineral or by the synthetic straight or branched hydrocarbon that obtains, for example liquid paraffin and its derivant, vaseline, poly decene, Parleam such as parleam; Synthetic ester and ether, especially fatty acid ester and ether, for example general formula is R 3COOR 4Oil, R wherein 3Representative contains the higher fatty acids residue of 7-29 carbon atom, R 4Representative contains the hydrocarbon chain of 3-30 carbon atom, purcellin oil for example, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl cetylate, 2-octyl group dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl group dodecyl eruciate or iso stearyl isostearate; Hydroxy ester, iso stearyl lactate for example, octyl group hydroxy stearic acid ester, octyl group dodecyl hydroxy stearic acid ester, two iso stearyl malates, three isocetyl citrates, the heptanoate of aliphatic alcohol, caprylate and decanoin; Polyol ester, propylene glycol dicaprylate for example, neopentyl glycol two heptanoates or diethylene glycol two different pelargonates; Pentaerythritol ester; The aliphatic alcohol that contains 12-26 carbon atom, octyldodecanol for example, 2-butyl capryl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol or oleyl alcohol; Silicone oil, for example volatility or non-volatile, at room temperature be the straight chain or the ring-type polymethyl siloxane (PDMSs) of liquid or pasty state; Its mixture.
Described wax can be wax, siloxane wax and/or the fluoro wax based on hydrocarbon, can derive from plant, mineral, animal and/or obtains by synthetic.Especially, its fusing point is higher than 25 ℃, is higher than 45 ℃ better.
Can be used for wax of the present invention, can mention be propylene oxideization or non-oxide propyleneization, acetylation or non-acetylizad lanoline, Cera Flava, Brazil wax, candelilla wax, paraffin, brown coal or microwax; Ceresin or ceresine; Synthetic wax, for example synthetic wax of Tissuemat E and Fischer-Tropsch process or octacosyl stearate, siloxane wax, as contain the alkyl or the alkoxyl dimethicone of 16-45 carbon atom.
The character of natural gum or wax and consumption are decided according to compositions required engineering properties and quality.As guidance, by composition total weight, compositions can contain the wax of 0-50% weight, and the wax that contains 5%-30% weight is better.
The present composition can be used as protection skin and/or hair is avoided the radiating sunscreen product of deleterious UV.These products can be suspension or the dispersions in solvent or aliphatic material, nonionic vesicle dispersion or Emulsion, preferred oil-in-water emulsion, as cream frost or emulsion, or ointment, gel, gel cream frost is contained in the preparation in the solid tube, as stick, foam aerosol or spray.
Certainly, except above-mentioned sunscreen, the present composition can also contain one or more other hydrophilic or lipotropy sunscreen of UVA and/or UVB scope light being had activity (absorbent).Especially, these other sunscreen can be selected from cinnamic acid derivative, salicyclic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, pyrrolotriazine derivatives, benzophenone derivative, dibenzoylmethane derivative, β, β-diphenylacrylate, the para-amino benzoic acid derivant, the siloxanes sunscreen of describing among polymer sunscreen and the patent application WO 93/04665.Patent application EP-A-0487404 has described the example of other organic sunscreen agent.
The present composition can also contain makes the activating agent (from pitch-dark dose) of skin people for blackening and/or overstrike, for example dihydroxy acetone (DHA).
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can also contain the coating or the metal-oxide millimicro level pigment (mean diameter that particle is initial: be generally 5nm-100nm of coating not, be preferably 10nm-50nm), titanium dioxide millimicro level pigment (amorphous substance of rutile or anatase form or crystal) for example, ferrum oxide millimicro level pigment, zinc oxide millimicro level pigment, zirconium oxide millimicro level pigment or cerium oxide millimicro pigment, they itself all are well-known smooth sunscreen, by physical action UV radiation blockers (reflection and/or scattering) are worked.In addition, Chang Yong coating materials is aluminium oxide and/or aluminium stearate.This class coating or the metal-oxide millimicro level pigment of coating have not been described in patent application EP-A-0518772 and EP-A-0518773.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can also be used to protecting hair; can be made into before hair washing or hair washing after use, have hair dyed or float use, perm or draw before or after sending out send out before, during or the shampoo that uses of back; washing liquid; gel, Emulsion, nonionic vesicle dispersion; the flushing compositions; make hair style or treatment of hair washing liquid or gel, hair dryer or typing washing liquid or gel, or be used to perm, draw send out, have hair dyed or float the compositions of sending out.
Pointed as the beginning of this description; another theme of the present invention is that protection skin or hair are avoided the skin of UV light radiation or the cosmetology Therapeutic Method of hair, comprises that the cosmetic composition as defined above with effective dose is administered on skin or the hair.
The specific embodiment
Provide concrete below but non-restrictive example illustrates the present invention.
Embodiment 1-6:
Preparation contains the different sunscreen of following component, anhydrous solution form:
The weight of the benzotriazole silicone 5% the shown in-chemical compound (a)
The weight of-oil 95%
Used oil properties is different.
Measure each solution at the UV at 280nm-400nm place absorption spectrum with ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer, used ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer is 552 types of being produced by Perkin Elmer company, dual-beam is installed, UV lamp (tritium) and visible lamp (tungsten bromide).This instrument is equipped with the inside surface integral instrument that originates from Perkin Elmer company.
Each undiluted solution is launched between two piezoids, empty in one of them piezoid, to obtain the thickness of 10 μ m.
To the spectrum of each acquisition, measure its optical density at wavelength place corresponding to absorption maximum, two maximum absorption wavelengths are the specific wavelength that contains the siloxanes sunscreen of used benzotriazole functional group, that is: λ 1max=305nm, λ 2max=347nm.
In the measurement result Table A below:
Table A
Embodiment Used oil The optical density at 305nm place The optical density at 347nm place
1 (the present invention) Three decyls 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters (the Liponate TDTM that LIPO chemical company sells) 2.19 1.82
2 (prior aries) Phenyl front three polysiloxanes (DC 556, sold by Dow Corning company) 1.77 1.67
3 (prior aries) Triheptin (Lanol 37T is sold by SEPPIC company) 1.61 1.55
4 (prior aries) C 12-C 15Alkyl benzoate (sale of Stearineries Dubois company) 1.60 1.54
5 (prior aries) Octyl group dodecyl pivalate (Elefac I 205 is sold by Bernel company) 1.54 1.47
6 (prior aries) Octyl dodecanol (Eutanol G is sold by Henkel company) 1.5 1.41
These results clearly illustrate that the oil phase ratio used with prior art, three decyls 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters have obviously improved the benzotriazole silicone that is used as the UV sunscreen and is dissolved in the described oil and absorbed the radiating ability of UV.
Embodiment 7-10: lip pomade
The preparation of 3 kinds of lip pomade forms of preparation, compositions has following component:
The weight of the benzotriazole silicone 5% the shown in-chemical compound (a)
-octacosyl stearate (wax), commodity are called Kester Wax 82H, are produced 10% weight by KosterKeunen company
The weight of-oil 85%
Used oil properties is different.
Prepare each preparation.Measure its relevant sun protection factor (SPF) then.With people such as B.L.Diffey " cosmetic chemistry can will " (J.Soc.Cosmet.Chem.) among the 40-124-133 (1989) in vitro method of description measure; The method comprises, measures the monochromatic protection factor at 5nm place, every interval in the 290nm-400nm wave-length coverage, just can calculate the sun protection factor according to given mathematical formulae.
For each stick, measuring all is to carry out on the SPF 290 S type ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometers that UV lamp (xenone) and surface integral instrument are installed, and this ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer originates from Optometrics company.
Each compositions all is the form with the uniform deposition thing, with 2mg/cm 2Speed, be coated in 3M and be bonded on the Transpore adhesion zone on the piezoid.
Three kinds of compositions of measuring preparation, and the result who represents with average protection factor who obtains lists among the following table B.
Table B
Embodiment Used oil Average SPF (standard deviation)
7 (the present invention) Three decyls 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters (the Liponate TDTM that LIPO chemical company sells) 6.3(0.2)
8 (prior aries) Triheptin (Lanol 37T is sold by SEPPIC company) 5.8(0.3)
9 (prior aries) C 12-C 15Alkyl benzoate (sale of Stearineries Dubois company) 4.6(0.5)
These results clearly illustrate, according to the present invention, there are three decyls 1,2 in the oil phase ratio used with prior art in the compositions, and 4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters have tangible beneficial effect with regard to the sun protection factor of compositions finished product.

Claims (25)

1. cosmetics or dermatological compositions is characterized in that, described compositions is being suitable for beauty treatment to contain in carrier:
(i) at least a silicon derivative that contains benzotriazole functional group is as the agent of lipotropy organic sunscreen,
(ii) at least a benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters himself to be enough to the whole dissolved amounts of described sunscreen are existed.
2. according to the compositions of claim 1, the silicon derivative that wherein contains benzotriazole functional group is selected from and comprises unitary silane or the polysiloxane that contains benzotriazole functional group of at least one following formula (1):
O (3-a)/2Si (R 1) a-G (1) is wherein :-R 1The C that representative is randomly replaced by halogen 1-C 10Alkyl or phenyl or trimethylsiloxy ,-a is selected between 0 to 3 and comprises 0 and 3 integer, and-symbol G represents the monoradical that directly links to each other with silicon atom to be equivalent to the group shown in the following formula (2):
Wherein:
-Y can be identical or different group, and is selected from C 1-C 8Alkyl, halogen and C 1-C 4Alkoxyl is represented C at Y 1-C 4During alkoxyl, two adjacent Y on same-aromatic rings can form the alkylidene dioxygen group together, and wherein said alkylidene contains 1 or 2 carbon atoms,
-X represents O or NH,
-Z represents hydrogen or C 1-C 4Alkyl,
-n is between 0 to 3 and comprises 0 and 3 integer,
-m is 0 or 1,
-p is between 1 to 10 and comprises 1 and 10 integer.
3. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that the described silicon derivative that contains benzotriazole functional group is the chemical compound shown in one of following facial (3) or (4):
Figure C9912023400031
Wherein :-R 2Can be identical or different group, and be selected from C 1-C 10Alkyl, phenyl, 3,3,3-trifluoro propyl and trimethylsiloxy wherein have 80% R at least in number 2Group is a methyl, and-D can be identical or different group, and is selected from R 2And G,-r is between 0 to 50 and comprises 0 and 50 integer, s is between 0 to 20 and comprises 0 and 20 integer, and when s=0, two symbol D have one at least, and to represent G ,-u be between 1 to 6 and comprise 1 and 6 integer, and t is between 0 to 10 and comprises 0 and 10 integer, t+u is more than or equal to 3, and-symbol G is identical with the G definition in the formula (2).
4. according to the compositions of claim 3, it is characterized in that the described silicon derivative that contains benzotriazole functional group is the chemical compound shown in following facial (5):
Figure C9912023400041
0≤r≤10 wherein,
1≤s≤10,
And E represents divalent group:
Figure C9912023400042
5. according to the compositions of claim 4, it is characterized in that the described silicon derivative that contains benzotriazole functional group is the chemical compound shown in the following formula:
6. according to the compositions of claim 1, it is characterized in that by the gross weight of compositions, the described content that contains the silicon derivative of benzotriazole functional group is 0.1%-20%.
7. according to the compositions of claim 1, it is characterized in that described benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters are selected from benzenetricarboxylic acid three ester compounds shown in the general formula (I): Wherein the R representative contains the straight or branched of 3-30 carbon atom, saturated or unsaturated alkyl.
8. according to the compositions of claim 7, it is characterized in that described benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters are selected from 1,2 shown in the general formula (II), 4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters:
Identical in the definition of R and the general formula (I) wherein.
9. compositions according to Claim 8, its formula of (II) chemical compound is selected from:
-2-ethylhexyl 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters;
-decyl 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters;
-three isodecyl 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters;
-2-butyl hexyl 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters;
-three decyls 1,2,4-benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters; Or its mixture.
10. according to the compositions of claim 1, it is characterized in that by the gross weight of compositions, the content of described benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters is 0.1%-99%.
11. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein selected silicon derivative that contains benzotriazole functional group and benzenetricarboxylic acid three ester compounds concentration will make the sun protection factor of described compositions be at least 2.
12. the compositions according to claim 1 is characterized in that, described compositions is solid dosage forms, paste or liquid dosage form anhydrous or the Emulsion form.
13. the compositions according to claim 1 is characterized in that, described compositions is an oil preparation, gel, suspension, biphase product, oil-in-water or Water-In-Oil dispersion, simple type or multiple emulsion, the vesicle dispersion, casting or molded solid, powder, foam or spray.
14. the compositions according to claim 1 is characterized in that, described compositions is cosmetic and/or the maintenance product that is used for skin and/or lip and/or body surface growth-gen.
15. according to the compositions of claim 14, wherein said compositions is the lip product type.
16. compositions according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, described compositions also contains the cosmetics adjuvant, described adjuvant is selected from aliphatic material, organic solvent, ion-type or nonionic thickener, softening agent, antioxidant, especially free radical scavenging antioxidant, opacifier, stabilizing agent, emollient, siloxanes, fluorine compounds, 'alpha '-hydroxy acids, defoamer, wetting agent, vitamin, spice, antiseptic, surfactant, pigment, pearling agent, filler, sequestering agent, polymer, propellant, basifier or acidulant and dyestuff.
17. the compositions according to claim 1 is characterized in that, described compositions is the sunscreen product that skin, lip and/or body surface growth-gen is carried out photoprotection.
18. the compositions according to claim 1 is characterized in that, described compositions also contains one or more to UV-A and/or activated additional hydrophilic of UV-B scope light or the agent of lipotropy organic sunscreen.
19. the compositions according to claim 18 is characterized in that, described additional organic sunscreen agent is selected from camphor derivatives, pyrrolotriazine derivatives, cinnamic acid derivative, salicyclic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivative, dibenzoylmethane derivative, β, β-diphenylacrylate, para-amino benzoic acid derivant, with the polymer sunscreen, and the siloxanes sunscreen except that the silicone derivative that contains benzotriazole functional group.
20. the compositions according to claim 1 is characterized in that, described compositions also contain can by scattering and/or reflection with the coating of UV ray physics blocking-up or not the metal oxide pigment of coating or millimicro level pigment as the additional optical protective agent.
21. the compositions according to claim 20 is characterized in that, described pigment or millimicro level pigment are selected from the coating or the titanium dioxide of coating not, zinc oxide, and ferrum oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, with and composition thereof.
22. the compositions according to claim 1 is characterized in that, described compositions also contains at least a activating agent that makes the skin people for blackening and/or overstrike.
23. the compositions according to claim 1 is characterized in that, described compositions is a hair-dressing article.
24. the compositions described in each of claim 1-23 is used for protecting skin and/or lip and/or body surface growth-gen to avoid the application of the cosmetic composition of ultraviolet radiation in production.
25. defined benzenetricarboxylic acid three esters are used for protecting skin and/or lip and/or body surface growth-gen to avoid the application of the cosmetic composition of ultraviolet radiation in production at least a as claim 1-23 each; to improve the photoprotection performance of described compositions; wherein said compositions contains the lipotropy system of filtering UV ray, and this lipotropy system is made of at least a silicon derivative that contains benzotriazole functional group.
CN99120234A 1998-09-24 1999-09-23 Cosmetics composition contg. silicon deriv. having benzotriazole functional group and triester of benzenetricarboxylic acid, and use thereof Expired - Fee Related CN1130192C (en)

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