CN112981986A - Mordant-free plant dye printing process - Google Patents

Mordant-free plant dye printing process Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112981986A
CN112981986A CN202110211985.2A CN202110211985A CN112981986A CN 112981986 A CN112981986 A CN 112981986A CN 202110211985 A CN202110211985 A CN 202110211985A CN 112981986 A CN112981986 A CN 112981986A
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parts
color
drying
mordant
printing process
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CN112981986B (en
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周聪
沈加加
李健阁
彭玺霖
施曼
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Jiaxing University
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Jiaxing University
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/34General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using natural dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/46General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing natural macromolecular substances or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/46General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing natural macromolecular substances or derivatives thereof
    • D06P1/48Derivatives of carbohydrates
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/14Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/24Polyamides; Polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/02After-treatment

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

A mordant-free plant dye printing process comprises the steps of 1, pretreating gray fabric, and controlling the pH value of the pretreated fabric within the range of 6-7; step 2, preparing color paste, wherein the color paste comprises 1-10 parts of vegetable dye, 1-5 parts of natural reducing agent, 5-10 parts of sizing agent, 0.5-1 part of pH regulator and 75-92 parts of deionized water; step 3, printing; the mesh number of the screen is 120-150 meshes, a magnetic rod with the diameter of 8-20# is selected, and the speed is 20-40 m/min; step 4, drying; the drying temperature is 120-; step 5, steaming; the reduction and evaporation temperature is 105-120 ℃, and the evaporation time is 5-20 min; step 6, washing with water; water washing with sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate to regulate pH to 7.5-9; step 7, drying and shaping, wherein the drying temperature is 90-100 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 5-20 m/min; the setting temperature is controlled at 125 ℃ and 135 ℃, and the speed is 28 m/min.

Description

Mordant-free plant dye printing process
Technical Field
The invention relates to an ecological and environment-friendly plant dye printing process, in particular to a method for realizing color matching printing of plant dye on cotton, silk, chinlon and wool fabrics without using a mordant.
Technical Field
The vegetable dye has good environmental compatibility and resource reproducibility, and has recently received attention from dye research and development institutions and printing and dyeing enterprises at home and abroad. At present, the research on plant dyes is mainly focused on dyeing applications, and most plant dyes need mordants such as aluminum potassium sulfate (alum), ferrous sulfate, potassium dichromate, stannous chloride, copper sulfate and the like, wherein the alum and the ferrous sulfate are relatively safe, the stannous chloride is allowed to be used within a certain range and the like, and the mordants of chromium and copper metal salts are forbidden to be used by the Ministry of Ministry. In addition, because the structure difference of the plant dyes is large, the compatibility among the dyes is poor, each plant dye has a using method suitable for the plant dye, great difficulty is caused to color matching, the application difficulty on printing is larger, a higher color depth value is easy to obtain because the dye can be fully diffused and permeated into fibers in a dye bath during dyeing, the printing improves the diffusion rate of the dye by means of steaming and baking of post-treatment, the dye is helped to dye the fibers, the color development of the printing is unstable because the different plant dyes have great difference in the combination degree with the fibers, functional groups capable of reacting with the fibers are few in the structure of the plant dye, the fastness is very low, and the printing requirement of the printing is difficult to meet, so the printing of the plant dyes is concentrated in the research stage at present. Chinese patent CN112095356A discloses a method for printing a protein fiber fabric with a high-color-fastness plant dye, which uses a mordant alum, and Chinese patent CN106758401A discloses a method for pretreating a real silk fabric and printing the real silk fabric with a natural plant dye, wherein the real silk fabric is firstly treated with a polycarboxylic acid solution, and then is printed with a printing paste containing a metal ion mordant and a natural plant dye. In short, the mordant is used in the existing plant dyes for dyeing and printing, and the existing plant dyes are used as single plant dyes.
The plant dye molecule contains a group capable of chelating with metal ions, and the dye molecule is firmly attached to the fiber because the plant dye molecule forms a chelate with a metal salt mordant, and most plant dyes have low dyeing rate and poor fastness if the mordant is not used.
The invention content is as follows:
the invention discloses a mordant-free plant dye printing process for avoiding the use risk of a metal mordant, which is characterized in that the main auxiliary agents used are natural extracts, and the specific process comprises the following steps:
step 1, pretreating gray fabric, and controlling the pH value of the pretreated fabric within a range of 6-7;
step 2, preparing color paste, wherein the color paste comprises 1-10 parts of vegetable dye, 1-5 parts of natural reducing agent, 5-10 parts of sizing agent, 0.5-1 part of pH regulator and 75-92 parts of deionized water;
step 3, printing; the mesh number of the screen is 120-150 meshes, a magnetic rod with the diameter of 8-20# is selected, and the speed is 20-40 m/min;
step 4, drying; the drying temperature is 120-140 ℃, and the speed is 20-30 m/min.
Step 5, reducing and steaming; the steaming temperature is 105-120 ℃, and the steaming time is 5-20 min.
Step 6, washing with water; water washing with sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate to regulate pH to 7.5-9;
step 7, drying and shaping, wherein the drying temperature is 90-100 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 5-20 m/min; the setting temperature is controlled at 125 ℃ and 135 ℃, and the speed is 28 m/min.
In the step 1, the grey cloth is pretreated by adopting a desizing, boiling and bleaching one-bath method, and is neutralized by acetic acid with the concentration of 2g/L after being deoxidized by deoxyenzyme and then is dried.
In the step 2, the plant dye is any one of or any 2 or more than 2 of color matching of lime, chrysanthemum yellow, carmine, gray, blue and soil color; the lime branch is obtained by extracting color from a lime branch tree; the chrysanthemum yellow is extracted from chrysanthemum; the carmine is extracted from cochineal insect; the grey is extracted from walnut shell carbon ash; the blue color is extracted from the kale; the soil color is extracted from hay.
The natural reducing agent in the step 2 is a plant extract which comprises any one or the combination of any 2 or more than 2 of tea polyphenol, histamine, 5-hydroxytryptamine and rosmarinic acid; the tea polyphenol comprises tea leaf extract, and the histamine and 5-hydroxytryptamine are nettle leaf extract; the rosmarinic acid is radix Arnebiae extract.
In the step 2, the slurry is any one of guar gum, sodium alginate and tamarind gum or a combination of any 2 or more than 2.
In the step 2, the pH regulator is citric acid or malic acid, the pH of the color paste is regulated to be within the range of 6-7, and the whole color paste is weakly acidic.
In the step 4, the drying is continuously carried out, the drying temperature is 120-.
In the step 5, the moisture content is more than 90% during the steaming, and the air content in the steam box is less than 0.5%.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the method does not use a metal mordant, and is more ecological and environment-friendly by using a natural reducing agent extracted from plants.
2, the invention realizes color matching printing of the plant dye, and realizes high-efficiency production of the plant printing by combining the specific plant dye in a steaming process under the action of a reducing agent and matching with a rotary screen printing process.
3, the invention is not only suitable for printing cotton, silk, wool and other natural fabrics, but also for printing nylon fabrics.
The specific implementation mode is as follows:
the first embodiment is as follows:
a mordant-free plant dye printing process selects 40S all-cotton single jersey as grey cloth with width gram weight of 180cm x 210g/m2. The main steps comprise grey cloth pretreatment, color paste preparation, printing, drying,Steaming, washing and shaping.
Step 1, pretreating gray fabric, and controlling the pH value of the pretreated fabric within a range of 6-7; pretreating the grey cloth by adopting a desizing, boiling and bleaching one-bath method, neutralizing the grey cloth by using 2g/L acetic acid after deoxidizing treatment by using deoxyenzyme, and drying the grey cloth, wherein the pH value of the cloth surface of the grey cloth is 6.8.
And 2, preparing color paste, wherein the color paste comprises 1-10 parts of vegetable dye, 1-5 parts of natural reducing agent, 5-10 parts of sizing agent, 0.5-1 part of pH regulator and 75-92 parts of deionized water. Preferably, the color paste is prepared in the step (2); preparing No. 1 color, selecting 2 parts of guar gum, 5 parts of tamarind gum, 1 part of citric acid, 2 parts of lime, 1 part of rosmarinic acid and 86 parts of deionized water, wherein the total is 100 parts; preparing 2# color, namely selecting 2 parts of guar gum, 5 parts of tamarind gum, 1 part of citric acid, 2 parts of lime, 4 parts of khaki, 2 parts of rosmarinic acid and 84 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts; preparing 3# color, selecting 5 parts of guar gum, 1 part of citric acid, 3 parts of chrysanthemum yellow, 0.3 part of ground color, 0.2 part of lime, 1.5 parts of rosmarinic acid and 89 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts; preparing No. 4 color, selecting 5 parts of guar gum, 1 part of citric acid, 0.8 part of blue, 0.8 part of chrysanthemum yellow, 0.8 part of rosmarinic acid and 91.6 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts;
step 3, printing; adopting rotary screen printing, wherein the mesh number of the screen is 120-150 meshes, selecting a magnetic rod with the diameter of 8-20#, and the speed is 20-40 m/min; preferably, an 8# magnetic rod and a 150-mesh screen are selected, and the vehicle speed is 30 m/min.
Step 4, drying; the drying temperature is 120-140 ℃, and the speed is 20-30 m/min. Preferably, the step 4 comprises the following steps: the drying temperature is 140 ℃. The specific equipment for drying is a drying room of the rotary screen printing machine, and the rotary screen printing machine cannot be stopped during drying to prevent color yellowing.
Step 5, reducing and steaming; the steaming temperature is 105-120 ℃, and the steaming time is 5-20 min. Preferably, the temperature of the steaming is 120 ℃, the time is 5min, the temperature is well controlled, the color can not be developed fully when the temperature is too low, and the color can be influenced when the temperature is too high.
Step 6, washing with water; water washing with sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate to regulate pH to 7.5-9; preferably, the plant dye has low dye uptake on pure cotton and much flooding, the pH value of the water bath is controlled to be 9, the dye which is not oxidized during steaming is convenient to dissolve, and the water washing effect is improved.
Step 7, drying and shaping: the setting temperature is controlled at 130 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 28 m/min. Preferably, step 7, drying and shaping are carried out, wherein the drying temperature is 90-100 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 5-20 m/min; the setting temperature is controlled at 125 ℃ and 135 ℃, and the speed is 28 m/min.
In the step 1, the grey cloth is pretreated by adopting a desizing, boiling and bleaching one-bath method, and is neutralized by acetic acid with the concentration of 2g/L after being deoxidized by deoxyenzyme and then is dried.
In this embodiment, in the step 2, the vegetable dye is any one of or any 2 or more than 2 color blends of lime, chrysanthemum yellow, carmine, gray, blue and earth color; the lime branch is obtained by extracting color from a lime branch tree; the chrysanthemum yellow is extracted from chrysanthemum; the carmine is extracted from cochineal insect; the grey is extracted from walnut shell carbon ash; the blue color is extracted from the kale; the soil color is extracted from hay.
In this embodiment, the natural reducing agent in step 2 is a plant extract, and includes any one of tea polyphenol, histamine, 5-hydroxytryptamine, and rosmarinic acid, or a combination of any 2 or more; the tea polyphenol comprises tea leaf extract, and the histamine and 5-hydroxytryptamine are nettle leaf extract; the rosmarinic acid is radix Arnebiae extract.
In this embodiment, in the step 2, the slurry is any one of guar gum, sodium alginate, and tamarind gum, or a combination of any 2 or more.
In this embodiment, in the step 2, the pH regulator is citric acid or malic acid, and the pH of the color paste is adjusted to be within a range of 6 to 7, so that the whole color paste is weakly acidic.
In this embodiment, the drying in step 4 needs to be performed continuously, the drying temperature is 120 ℃ and 140 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 30 m/min.
In this embodiment, in the step 5, the moisture content is greater than 90% during steaming, and the air content in the steam box is less than 0.5%.
Comparative example one:
and (3) similarly adopting 40S all-cotton single jersey, replacing a natural reducing agent with purified water when preparing the color paste in the step (2), and completely adopting other processes as the first embodiment.
Step (2) preparing color paste;
preparing No. 1 color, namely selecting 2 parts of guar gum, 5 parts of tamarind gum, 1 part of citric acid, 2 parts of lime and 87 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts;
preparing 2# color, selecting 2 parts of guar gum, 5 parts of tamarind gum, 1 part of citric acid, 2 parts of lime, 4 parts of earth color, and adding 86 parts of deionized water, wherein the total is 100 parts;
preparing 3# color, selecting 5 parts of guar gum, 1 part of citric acid, 3 parts of chrysanthemum yellow, 0.3 part of soil color, 0.2 part of lime and 90.5 parts of deionized water, wherein the total is 100 parts;
preparing No. 4 color, namely selecting 5 parts of guar gum, 1 part of citric acid, 0.8 part of blue, 0.8 part of chrysanthemum yellow and 92.4 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts;
the printing effects obtained in the first embodiment and the first comparative example are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1 comparison of printing results
Case(s) Effect
Example one Clear pattern, deep color and uniform color
Comparative example 1 Blurred pattern, very light color, and uneven color
Example two:
selecting 19 mm 100% silk plain crepe satin with width gram weight114cm, a gram weight of 85g/m2. The specific treatment steps comprise grey cloth pretreatment, color paste preparation, printing, drying, steaming, washing and sizing.
Pretreating gray fabric, wherein the ratio of the gray fabric to water bath is 1: 15, adding 0.5g/L sodium hydrosulfite, 0.5g/L sodium carbonate and 0.5g/L fibroin protective agent into water, namely adding 0.5g sodium hydrosulfite, sodium carbonate and fibroin protective agent into each liter of water. After treatment at 95 ℃ for 20 minutes, the blank is neutralized with acetic acid to a pH of 6.
Preparing color paste in step (2):
preparing No. 1 color, selecting 5 parts of sodium alginate, 1 part of malic acid, 20 parts of gray, 2 parts of histamine and 5-hydroxytryptamine composition, and adding 72 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts.
And (3) preparing the 2# color, namely selecting 5 parts of sodium alginate, 1 part of malic acid, 15 parts of blue, 5 parts of carmine, 2 parts of histamine and 5-hydroxytryptamine, and adding 72 parts of deionized water to total 100 parts.
Printing in step (3): selecting a 4# magnetic rod and a 120-mesh screen, and controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 40m/min
And (4) drying: the drying temperature is 120 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 30 m/min.
And (5) reduction and evaporation: the steaming temperature is 105 ℃, and the steaming time is 10 min.
And (6) water washing, namely water washing by adopting water solution with the pH value adjusted to 8 by sodium bicarbonate.
And (7) drying: the drying temperature is 80 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 10 m/min.
Example three:
a nylon knitted fabric of 50S is selected, and the width of the knitted fabric is 185cm x 195 g. The specific treatment steps comprise grey cloth pretreatment, color paste preparation, printing, drying, steaming, washing and sizing.
Pretreating gray fabric, wherein the ratio of the gray fabric to water bath is 1: 10, adding 4g/L degreasing agent and 1g/L soda ash into water, namely adding 4g degreasing agent and 1g soda ash into each liter of water, treating for 10 minutes at 95 ℃, and neutralizing the pH value of the grey cloth with acetic acid after treatment to be 6.4.
Preparing color paste in step (2):
preparing No. 1 color, selecting 5 parts of guar gum, 1 part of citric acid, 20 parts of lime branch, 1 part of hay color and 5 parts of tea polyphenol, and adding 68 parts of deionized water to obtain 100 parts of the total color.
Preparing No. 2 color, selecting 5 parts of guar gum, 1 part of citric acid, 15 parts of lime branch, 5 parts of carmine, 5 parts of tea polyphenol and adding 69 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts.
Preparing 3# color, selecting 5 parts of guar gum, 1 part of citric acid, 10 parts of carmine, 5 parts of hay, 4 parts of chrysanthemum yellow, 5 parts of tea polyphenol and 70 parts of deionized water, wherein the total weight is 100 parts.
Printing in step (3): selecting a 6# magnetic rod and a 130-mesh screen, and the vehicle speed is 30m/min
And (4) drying: the drying temperature is 120 ℃. When drying, the fabric is easy to turn yellow.
And (5) reduction and evaporation: the steaming temperature is 110 ℃, the steaming time is 5min, the temperature is controlled well, the color can not be developed fully when the temperature is too low, and the color light is influenced when the temperature is too high.
And (6) washing with water, namely washing with an aqueous solution of which the pH value is adjusted to 8.5 by using sodium bicarbonate.
Shaping in step (7): the setting temperature is controlled at 120 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 20 m/min.
Example four:
pure wool twill short and smooth woolen cloth is selected, and the weight of the width of the cloth is 145cm x 850g/m2. The specific treatment steps comprise grey cloth pretreatment, color paste preparation, printing, drying, steaming, washing and sizing.
Step 1, pretreating gray fabric, namely singeing, washing, scouring, dehydrating and drying a woolen blank, wherein after scouring, acetic acid is used for neutralizing, and the pH value of the cloth surface of the dried gray fabric is 6.5.
Step 2, color paste preparation:
preparing No. 1 color, selecting 5 parts of tamarind gum, 1 part of citric acid, 5 parts of lime, 2 parts of rosmarinic acid and 87 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts;
preparing No. 2 color, selecting 5 parts of tamarind gum, 1 part of citric acid, 2 parts of chrysanthemum yellow and 1 part of rosmarinic acid, and adding 81 parts of deionized water to obtain 100 parts in total;
preparing No. 3 color, selecting 5 parts of tamarind gum, 1 part of citric acid, 1 part of earth color, 0.5 part of rosmarinic acid and 92.5 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts;
preparing No. 4 color, selecting 5 parts of tamarind gum, 1 part of citric acid, 2 parts of blue, 1 part of rosmarinic acid and 91 parts of deionized water, wherein the total amount is 100 parts;
printing in step (3): selecting an 8# magnetic rod and a 120-mesh screen, and controlling the speed of the vehicle to be 20m/min
And (4) drying: the drying temperature is 100 ℃. The drying process should be done without stopping the oven, so as to prevent the color from yellowing.
And (5) reduction and evaporation: the steaming temperature is 120 ℃, the steaming time is 10min, the temperature is controlled well, color development cannot be fully realized when the temperature is too low, and color light is influenced when the temperature is too high.
And (6) washing with water, namely washing with an aqueous solution with the pH value of 8 adjusted by sodium bicarbonate.
And (7) drying: the drying temperature is controlled at 100 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 15 m/min.
The fabric obtained in the second embodiment and the fourth embodiment has bright color, deep color, rich color and clear pattern outline, can be printed by single plant dye, can also be printed by color matching of a plurality of plant dyes, and realizes printing on silk, wool and nylon.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that it is obvious to those skilled in the art that several modifications and more applications can be made without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and those modifications and new applications are all within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (7)

1. A mordant-free plant dye printing process is characterized by comprising the following steps:
step 1, pretreating gray fabric, and controlling the pH value of the pretreated fabric within a range of 6-7;
step 2, preparing color paste, wherein the color paste comprises 1-10 parts of vegetable dye, 1-5 parts of natural reducing agent, 5-10 parts of sizing agent, 0.5-1 part of pH regulator and 75-92 parts of deionized water;
step 3, printing; the mesh number of the screen is 120-150 meshes, a magnetic rod with the diameter of 8-20# is selected, and the speed is 20-40 m/min;
step 4, drying; the drying temperature is 120-;
step 5, reducing and steaming; the steaming temperature is 105-120 ℃, and the steaming time is 5-20 min;
step 6, washing with water; water washing with sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate to regulate pH to 7.5-9;
step 7, drying and shaping, wherein the drying temperature is 90-100 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 5-20 m/min; setting temperature is controlled at 125 ℃ and 135 ℃, and the speed is 28 m/min;
in the step 1, the grey cloth is pretreated by adopting a desizing, boiling and bleaching one-bath method, and is neutralized by acetic acid with the concentration of 2g/L after being deoxidized by deoxyenzyme and then is dried;
in the step 2, the plant dye is any one of or any 2 or more than 2 of color matching of lime, chrysanthemum yellow, carmine, gray, blue and soil color; the lime branch is obtained by extracting color from a lime branch tree; the chrysanthemum yellow is extracted from chrysanthemum; the carmine is extracted from cochineal insect; the grey is extracted from walnut shell carbon ash; the blue color is extracted from the kale; the soil color is extracted from hay.
2. The mordant-free plant dye printing process according to claim 1, wherein the natural reducing agent in the step 2 is a plant extract comprising any one of tea polyphenol, histamine, 5-hydroxytryptamine and rosmarinic acid or a combination of any 2 or more; the tea polyphenol comprises tea leaf extract, and the histamine and 5-hydroxytryptamine are nettle leaf extract; the rosmarinic acid is radix Arnebiae extract.
3. The mordant-free plant dye printing process according to claim 1, wherein in the step 2, the slurry is any one of guar gum, sodium alginate and tamarind gum or a combination of any 2 or more.
4. The mordant-free plant dye printing process according to claim 1, wherein in the step 2, the pH regulator is citric acid or malic acid, and the pH of the color paste is regulated to be in a range of 6-7, so that the whole process is weakly acidic.
5. The mordant-free plant dye printing process according to claim 1, wherein in the step 4, the drying is continuously carried out at a drying temperature of 120 ℃ and a drying speed of 30m/min at 140 ℃.
6. The mordant-free plant dye printing process according to claim 1, wherein in the step 5, the moisture content is more than 90% during steaming, and the air content in a steam box is less than 0.5%.
7. The mordant-free plant dye printing process according to claim 1, wherein the grey cloth comprises cotton, silk, wool and nylon fabrics.
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