CN112663353A - Preparation method of plant dye yarn-dyed fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of plant dye yarn-dyed fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN112663353A CN112663353A CN202011527203.8A CN202011527203A CN112663353A CN 112663353 A CN112663353 A CN 112663353A CN 202011527203 A CN202011527203 A CN 202011527203A CN 112663353 A CN112663353 A CN 112663353A
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Abstract
The invention provides a preparation method of a plant dye yarn-dyed fabric, which comprises the following steps: s1, providing cellulose yarns with different cation contents; s2, sizing the cellulose yarns with different cation contents respectively, and weaving according to yarn-dyed tissue structure design to obtain cellulose fabric; and S3, desizing the cellulose fabric, and dyeing by adopting plant dye under a neutral condition to obtain the dyed fabric with a similar yarn-dyed effect. The process flow mainly comprises yarn modification → weaving → fabric dyeing, wherein, the yarn modification process leads the cellulose yarn to contain different amounts of cations; after the fabric is woven according to the yarn-dyed weave structure, the fabric is dyed by adopting plant dye under the neutral condition. The cellulose fabric modified and woven by the process can obtain imitated color patterns after being dyed by vegetable dye, has rich colors and styles, better dyeing effect and high color fastness, and is suitable for industrial large-scale production.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a preparation method of a plant dye yarn-dyed imitation fabric.
Background
In recent years, with the increasing attention of people to ecological and environmental problems, concepts such as "green products", "ecological textiles" and the like are also greatly introduced into the international textile and garment trade field, and various countries have made higher requirements on "safety" of textiles and services in the wearing and using process.
In the field of textile printing and dyeing, natural dyes existing in nature are used for replacing part of synthetic dyes, so that the worry of people about the shortage of synthetic dye resources can be relieved; and secondly, the problem of naturalization of the dye source of the ecological textile can be better solved, and the damage degree to the environment is small. The natural dye is mainly plant dye extracted from root, stem, leaf and fruit of plant, such as indigo blue and radix Rubiae. Many of the vegetable dyes are Chinese herbal medicines, and the dyeing by adopting the vegetable dyes is suitable for the current natural and health-care consumption fashion. And, dyeing with natural plant dyes is beneficial to environmental protection.
The plant dyes are mostly direct dyes and acid mordant dyes according to the application performance; the direct dyes all contain hydrophilic groups of sulfonic acid group and carboxyl group, and the acid mordant dyes are treated by metal mordants in the dyeing process. At present, the plant dye dyeing process developed at the present stage mainly comprises a fabric modification dyeing method and a mordant dyeing method (the environment protection property is poor).
The fabric modification dyeing method mainly dyes the fabric after cationic modification, so that the vegetable dye has good dyeing property. However, the dyed fabric obtained by the existing plant dye dyeing process has single color and style and has the defect of poor fastness.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the invention provides a preparation method of a vegetable dye yarn-dyed fabric, and the vegetable dye dyed cellulose fiber fabric can be obtained by the method, and meanwhile, the color-dyed pattern and style of the fabric can be endowed, and the fastness is good.
The invention provides a preparation method of a plant dye yarn-dyed fabric, which comprises the following steps:
s1, providing cellulose yarns with different cation contents;
s2, sizing the cellulose yarns with different cation contents respectively, and weaving according to yarn-dyed tissue structure design to obtain cellulose fabric;
and S3, desizing the cellulose fabric, and dyeing by adopting plant dye under a neutral condition to obtain the dyed fabric with a similar yarn-dyed effect.
Preferably, the cellulose yarns with different cation contents are obtained in the following manner:
bleaching the cellulose raw yarn, dividing the bleached yarn into a plurality of parts, and treating the parts by using cationic modifiers with different concentrations to obtain cellulose yarns with different cationic contents.
Preferably, the cationic modifier is used in an amount of 0 to 6% by weight of the yarn.
Preferably, the sizing is carried out mainly with starch, the sizing agent preferably comprising: 3-5 g/L of starch, 1-2 g/L of humectant and 3-5 g/L of smoothing agent.
Preferably, the weaving mode is tatting, and the procedures comprise warping, drafting and beating-up.
Preferably, the desizing is performed by using desizing liquid containing desizing enzyme, and the concentration of the desizing enzyme is preferably 2-8%.
Preferably, the cellulose yarn bodies with different cation contents are one or more of cotton, hemp, tencel and viscose.
Preferably, the plant dye is selected from one or more of green plant dye, red plant dye, yellow plant dye, blue plant dye and black plant dye.
Preferably, the dyeing is carried out in a dyeing bath consisting of vegetable dyes and water; the usage amount of the vegetable dye is preferably 0.01-5% by weight of the fabric; the dyeing temperature is preferably 60-80 ℃.
Preferably, after the dyeing is finished, water washing and soaping are carried out in sequence, and tentering or preshrinking is preferably carried out on the dyed fabric after washing.
The method mainly comprises a dyeing process of plant dye yarn-imitating fabric, and the process flow mainly comprises yarn modification → weaving → fabric dyeing, wherein the yarn modification process enables cellulose yarns to contain different amounts of cations; after the fabric is woven according to the yarn-dyed weave structure, the fabric is dyed by adopting plant dye under the neutral condition. The cellulose fabric modified and woven by the process can obtain imitated color patterns after being dyed by vegetable dye, has rich colors and styles, better dyeing effect and high color fastness, and is suitable for industrial large-scale production.
Furthermore, the dyeing process of the invention is carried out under a neutral condition, and a dyeing bath consisting of only dye and water can be adopted, so that the dye utilization rate is high, and finally, the energy conservation, emission reduction and cost reduction are realized at the same time.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a photomicrograph of a sample of dyed fabric according to example 1 of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a photomicrograph of a sample of dyed fabric of example 2 of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
The invention provides a preparation method of a plant dye yarn-dyed fabric, which comprises the following steps:
s1, providing cellulose yarns with different cation contents;
s2, sizing the cellulose yarns with different cation contents respectively, and weaving according to yarn-dyed tissue structure design to obtain cellulose fabric;
and S3, desizing the cellulose fabric, and dyeing by adopting plant dye under a neutral condition to obtain the dyed fabric with a similar yarn-dyed effect.
In order to solve the problems of single color, poor fastness and the like of the vegetable dye dyed fabric, the invention provides the energy-saving and environment-friendly method for dyeing the cellulose fiber fabric by the vegetable dye, and simultaneously, the fabric can be endowed with yarn-dyed patterns and styles.
The technical scheme for realizing the aim of the embodiment of the invention is a dyeing process for imitating the color of vegetable dye, and the process flow specifically comprises the following steps: yarn scouring and bleaching → yarn modification → weaving → fabric pretreatment → fabric dyeing → after finishing.
Cellulose fiber yarns are adopted in the embodiment of the invention, and the cellulose yarns with different cation contents are obtained through bleaching and modification; specifically, the cellulose base yarn can be immersed into the pretreatment liquid, and the temperature is preferably raised to 95-98 ℃ at a heating rate of 1-3 ℃/min, so that the cellulose yarn is mainly bleached.
Wherein, the cellulose yarn can be cotton yarn, and also can use other cellulose yarns such as hemp, tencel, viscose, etc. or blended yarns thereof; the yarn size is not particularly limited, and is, for example, 29-inch yarn. The pretreatment liquid is generally scouring and bleaching treatment liquid; the invention can remove yarn impurities through scouring pretreatment, improve the processing performance of the yarn, and preferably adopts alkaline hydrogen peroxide commonly used in the field for bleaching.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the formula of the scouring and bleaching treatment liquid is as follows: the scouring agent DT-J011-2 g/L, the chelating dispersant 1-2 g/L, sodium hydroxide 1-3 g/L, hydrogen peroxide 3-6 g/L and the balance of water, and the scouring and bleaching can be carried out for 45-60 min to obtain the scoured and bleached yarn. The preferable low-foam scouring agent DT-J01 is a product of Shandong yellow river Delta textile science and technology research institute, and the main component is fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene ether. The chelating dispersant is preferably a strong metal ion scavenger TX-908 which is purchased from Nicotiana yunnanensis textile technology Co., Ltd, and mainly comprises xanthates and dithiocarbamate Derivatives (DTCs) and the like. The pretreated yarn can be washed once with water, then neutralized with glacial acetic acid, and finally treated with catalase at 30 ℃ to reduce adverse effects on subsequent modification.
After the yarns are scoured and bleached, the embodiment of the invention carries out yarn modification: dividing the scoured and bleached yarns into a plurality of parts according to the design requirement, respectively adding cationic modifiers with different concentrations, preferably heating to 60 ℃ at the heating rate of 1-2 ℃/min, respectively modifying cellulose yarns such as cotton yarns, and the like, and after treating for 30-45 min, washing twice with cold water for 10min each time to obtain the cationic modified yarns with different concentrations.
The cationic modifier is preferably added in an amount of 0-6% by weight of the yarn, and the balance of water; when 0, the yarn is unmodified, washed only with water. The dosage of the cationic modifier is preferably 0.5-6%, and the concentration of the modified yarns can be selected to be 2-6, so that the cationic contents of the modified cellulose yarns are different. Specifically, the modifier used in the yarn modification process is a cationic resin crosslinking modifier ACP which can be purchased from Shanghai Jiahe chemical plant Co., Ltd; the dosage of the modifier is 0.1-6% (o.w.f), the modification temperature is preferably 50-80 ℃, and the modification time can be 30-60 min. The cationic modifier can be divided into micromolecules and high molecules according to the molecular size, wherein the micromolecules mainly comprise epoxy compounds, acrylamide quaternary ammonium salts, nitrogen heterocyclic cationic compounds and chloro-s-triazine compounds; the polymer includes cationic polyacrylamide, dendritic macromolecule, cationic starch, chitosan quaternary ammonium salt, polyepichlorohydrin amide, etc.
After the yarn modification treatment, the cellulose yarns with different cation contents are respectively sized and dried in the embodiment of the invention, so as to facilitate subsequent weaving. In an embodiment of the present invention, the sizing is performed mainly using starch, and the sizing agent preferably includes: 3-5 g/L of starch, 1-2 g/L of L635 humectant and 3-5 g/L of smoothing agent. Wherein, the humectant and the smoothing agent are both optional additives; the humectant L635 is Sinvadine L-635 hygroscopic agent (Kunshan Minghe auxiliaries Co., Ltd.), and the smoothing agent may be yarn smoothing agent 6000D (Suzhou Lisheng chemical Co., Ltd.).
According to the embodiment of the invention, the modified yarns with different concentrations and the unmodified yarns are woven according to the tissue specification and the pattern design of the common yarn-dyed fabric, so that the pure white cellulose fabric is obtained. The weaving mode is preferably shuttle weaving, and the procedures comprise warping, drafting and beating-up.
In some embodiments of the invention, the weave specification of the fabric is: (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + unmodified yarn C29s) × (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + unmodified yarn C29s)76 × 70114 "; in this specification, the warp and weft densities are 76X 70 and the breadth is 114 "(inches).
After the fabric is woven, the embodiment of the invention carries out fabric pretreatment: the woven fabric is treated in pretreatment liquid, wherein the pretreatment is mainly to desize the fabric so as to facilitate subsequent dyeing. In the specific embodiment of the invention, the woven cellulose fabric is immersed into desizing liquid containing desizing enzyme, and the temperature is preferably raised to 50-60 ℃ at the speed of 2 ℃/min for desizing for 30 min.
Wherein, the concentration of the desizing enzyme is preferably 2 to 8 percent; and a scouring agent with the concentration of 0.5 to 3 percent can also be added. The desizing liquid formula is as follows: 5g/L desizing enzyme and 0.5-1 g/L scouring agent. The desizing enzyme can be desizing enzyme DT-E25, produced by Shandong Huanghe Delta textile science and technology research institute, and the main component is amylase; the scouring agent is preferably a low foaming scouring agent DT-J01.
After desizing, the embodiment of the invention adds dye liquor containing plant dye, and the pure white fabric after pretreatment is dyed under neutral condition. The plant dye used in the present invention may be one or more selected from green plant dye, red plant dye, yellow plant dye, blue plant dye and black plant dye, such as commercially available plant dye rose red, plant dye vital green, etc., and may produce different colors and styles. The vegetable dye with small molecular weight and good solubility has good effect, and can be produced by Changzhou Meisheng biomaterial Co Ltd, which is a natural dye used for dyeing cellulose fibers.
In the embodiment of the invention, the well-prepared plant dye can be added at a constant speed at room temperature; and (3) feeding for 15-20 min, raising the temperature to 60-80 ℃ at a speed of 1-2 ℃/min preferably after finishing feeding, and performing heat preservation dyeing for 20-40 min to obtain the dyed fabric with the color-like texture. The amount of the vegetable dye added is preferably 0.01% to 5% (o.w.f), more preferably 0.1% to 3% (o.w.f), and still more preferably 0.2% to 2%, for example, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.8%, 0.9%, etc., based on the weight of the fabric. Under the neutral condition, the dyeing of the embodiment of the invention is carried out in the dyeing bath consisting of the plant dye and the water, and the dye utilization rate is higher.
The dyeing temperature is preferably 60-80 ℃. The invention uses natural plant dye to dye, endows the fabric with pattern and style similar to yarn dyed, has better dyeing effect such as color fastness, has no harmful substances polluting the environment, is beneficial to environmental protection, saves sewage treatment cost, and finally realizes energy conservation, emission reduction and cost reduction at the same time.
After the dyeing of the embodiment of the invention is finished, discharging liquid, washing the dyed fabric with warm water in a room, and after discharging liquid again, soaping for 10-15 min at the temperature of 80-95 ℃ to remove loose color and the like. The embodiment of the invention mainly carries out post-finishing such as tentering, preshrinking and the like on the washed dyed fabric, and can also carry out other special function finishing. Experimental results show that the dyed cellulose fabric prepared by the method has the advantages of color-imitating texture, good cloth cover dyeing effect and high color fastness, and the problems of single color of the plant dye dyed fabric and the like are solved.
In order to further understand the present application, the following examples are provided to specifically describe the preparation method of the plant dye colored woven fabric provided by the present application. It should be understood, however, that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, which is defined by the following examples.
The examples, where specific techniques or conditions are not indicated, are to be construed according to the techniques or conditions described in the literature in the art or according to the product specifications. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by manufacturers, and are all conventional products available on the market.
In the following examples, the preferred low foam scouring agent DT-J01 is a product of Shandong yellow river Delta textile science research institute, Inc.; the strong metal ion trapping agent TX-908 is purchased from Nicotiana yunnaming textile science and technology Limited; the cationic resin crosslinking modifier ACP is purchased from Shanghai Jia and chemical plant, Inc.; the humectant L635 is Sinvadine L-635 hygroscopic agent (Kunshan Minghe auxiliaries Co., Ltd.), and the smoothing agent is yarn smoothing agent 6000D (Suzhou Lisheng chemical Co., Ltd.); the desizing enzyme is desizing enzyme DT-E25 produced by Shandong Huanghe Delta textile science and technology research institute, and the main component of the desizing enzyme is amylase; the Sindissperse CA-325 chelate dispersion soaping agent is a product of Kunshan Minghe auxiliary agent company Limited.
Example 1
The method for dyeing the imitated color cotton fabric with the plant dye in the life green color comprises the following specific steps of:
bleaching: 29-inch pure cotton yarns are immersed in the pretreatment liquid and treated at 98 ℃ for 45 min.
The treating fluid contains a scouring agent DT-J012 g/L, caustic soda 2g/L, hydrogen peroxide 6g/L and a TX-908 chelating dispersant 1 g/L.
Washing with water: washing the pretreated cotton yarn once, then carrying out acid neutralization for 10min at 60 ℃ by using 0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, and finally treating for 20min at 30 ℃ by using 0.1g/L catalase.
③ modification: respectively modifying the yarns in the step II according to the weaving design amount, wherein the modified yarns are as follows: immersing the yarn into modified treatment liquid ACP accounting for 0.6 percent of the weight of the yarn, and modifying for 30min at 60 ℃; and (2) modified yarn II: immersing the yarn into modification treatment liquid ACP accounting for 5 percent of the weight of the yarn, and modifying for 30min at 60 ℃.
Weaving: and (4) sizing the modified yarns with different concentrations in the step (III) and the unmodified yarns in the step (II) respectively (the temperature is 60 ℃ and the time is 30min), drying, and performing weaving procedures such as warping according to a weaving design scheme. The sizing agent comprises: 3-5 g/L of starch, 1-2 g/L of L635 humectant and 3-5 g/L of smoothing agent.
The weave specification of the fabric is as follows: (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + C29s) × (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + C29s)76 × 70114 ".
Pretreatment: and (4) treating the fabric woven in the step (IV) in pretreatment liquid for 30min at 60 ℃, wherein the treatment liquid contains 10g/L of desizing enzyme and DT-J011 g/L of scouring agent.
Sixthly, dyeing: dyeing the fabric pretreated in the fifth step, adding the well-treated plant dye at a constant speed at room temperature for 15-20 min, heating to 60 ℃ at a heating rate of 1 ℃/min after adding, keeping the temperature for 20min, draining, washing with cold water once, and soaping at 90 ℃ for 10 min. The dyeing liquid comprises water and plant dye, and the life green is 0.8% (o.w.f); the composition of the soaping liquid is 1.5g/L of CA-325 soaping agent.
Seventh, tentering: tentering the dyed fabric in the step (c), wherein the tentering process is as follows: 40 +/-5 m/min, drying chamber temperature: no. 1, No. 8 and No. 160 +/-5 ℃; 2# to 7#170 +/-2 ℃, and the cropping width: 264 plus or minus 0.5 cm.
The photo of the sample dyed in this example is shown in FIG. 1, and it has a color-like pattern and style.
Example 2
The method for dyeing the imitation-color cotton fabric with the rose red dye comprises the following specific steps:
bleaching: 29-inch pure cotton yarns are immersed in the pretreatment liquid and treated at 98 ℃ for 45 min.
The treating fluid contains a scouring agent DT-J012 g/L, caustic soda 2g/L, hydrogen peroxide 6g/L and a TX-908 chelating dispersant 1 g/L.
Washing with water: washing the pretreated cotton yarn once, then carrying out acid neutralization for 10min at 60 ℃ by using 0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, and finally treating for 20min at 30 ℃ by using 0.1g/L catalase.
③ modification: respectively modifying the yarns in the step II according to the weaving design amount, wherein the modified yarns are as follows: immersing the yarn into modified treatment liquid ACP accounting for 0.6 percent of the weight of the yarn, and modifying for 30min at 60 ℃; and (2) modified yarn II: immersing the yarn into modification treatment liquid ACP accounting for 5 percent of the weight of the yarn, and modifying for 30min at 60 ℃.
Weaving: and (4) sizing the modified yarns with different concentrations in the step (III) and the unmodified yarns in the step (II), drying, and performing weaving procedures such as warping according to a weaving design scheme. The sizing agent comprises: 3-5 g/L of starch, 1-2 g/L of L635 humectant and 3-5 g/L of smoothing agent.
The weave specification of the fabric is as follows: (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + C29s) × (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + C29s)76 × 70114 ".
Pretreatment: and (4) treating the fabric woven in the step (IV) in pretreatment liquid for 30min at 60 ℃, wherein the treatment liquid contains 10g/L of desizing enzyme and DT-J011 g/L of scouring agent.
Sixthly, dyeing: dyeing the fabric pretreated in the fifth step, adding the well-treated plant dye at a constant speed at room temperature for 15-20 min, heating to 60 ℃ at a heating rate of 1 ℃/min after adding, keeping the temperature for 20min, draining, washing with cold water once, and soaping at 90 ℃ for 10 min. The dyeing liquid consists of water and 0.9% (o.w.f) of rose bengal which is a vegetable dye; the composition of the soaping liquid is 1.5g/L of CA-325 soaping agent.
Seventh, tentering: tentering the dyed fabric in the step (c), wherein the tentering process is as follows: 40 +/-5 m/min, drying chamber temperature: no. 1, No. 8 and No. 160 +/-5 ℃; 2# to 7#170 +/-2 ℃, and the cropping width: 264 plus or minus 0.5 cm.
The photo of the sample dyed in this example is shown in FIG. 2, which has a color-like pattern and style.
Comparative example 1
The method for accelerating dyeing by adding anhydrous sodium sulphate in the rose red dyeing of the color-imitating cotton fabric comprises the following specific steps:
bleaching: 29-inch pure cotton yarns are immersed in the pretreatment liquid and treated at 98 ℃ for 45 min.
The treating fluid contains a scouring agent DT-J012 g/L, caustic soda 2g/L, hydrogen peroxide 6g/L and a TX-908 chelating dispersant 1 g/L.
Washing with water: washing the pretreated cotton yarn once, then carrying out acid neutralization for 10min at 60 ℃ by using 0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, and finally treating for 20min at 30 ℃ by using 0.1g/L catalase.
③ modification: respectively modifying the yarns in the step II according to the weaving design amount, wherein the modified yarns are as follows: immersing the yarn into modified treatment liquid ACP accounting for 0.6 percent of the weight of the yarn, and modifying for 30min at 60 ℃; and (2) modified yarn II: immersing the yarn into modification treatment liquid ACP accounting for 5 percent of the weight of the yarn, and modifying for 30min at 60 ℃.
Weaving: and (4) sizing the modified yarns with different concentrations in the step (III) and the unmodified yarns in the step (II), drying, and performing weaving procedures such as warping according to a weaving design scheme. The sizing agent comprises: 3-5 g/L of starch, 1-2 g/L of L635 humectant and 3-5 g/L of smoothing agent.
The weave specification of the fabric is as follows: (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + C29s) × (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + C29s)76 × 70114 ".
Pretreatment: and (4) treating the fabric woven in the step (IV) in pretreatment liquid for 30min at 60 ℃, wherein the treatment liquid contains 10g/L of desizing enzyme and DT-J011 g/L of scouring agent.
Sixthly, dyeing: dyeing the pretreated fabric in the fifth step, adding the well-melted plant dye at a constant speed at room temperature, running for 10min, adding anhydrous sodium sulphate, heating to 60 ℃ at a heating rate of 1 ℃/min, keeping the temperature for 20min, draining, washing with cold water once, and soaping at 90 ℃ for 10 min. The dyeing liquid consists of water and 0.9% (o.w.f) of rose bengal which is a vegetable dye; the composition of the soaping liquid is 1.5g/L of CA-325 soaping agent.
Seventh, tentering: tentering the dyed fabric in the step (c), wherein the tentering process is as follows: 40 +/-5 m/min, drying chamber temperature: no. 1, No. 8 and No. 160 +/-5 ℃; 2# to 7#170 +/-2 ℃, and the cropping width: 264 plus or minus 0.5 cm.
Comparative example 2
The method for dyeing the rosy dye of the imitated color cotton fabric in the comparative example comprises the following specific steps:
bleaching: 29-inch pure cotton yarns are immersed in the pretreatment liquid and treated at 98 ℃ for 45 min.
The treating fluid contains a scouring agent DT-J012 g/L, caustic soda 2g/L, hydrogen peroxide 6g/L and a TX-908 chelating dispersant 1 g/L.
Washing with water: washing the pretreated cotton yarn once, then carrying out acid neutralization for 10min at 60 ℃ by using 0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, and finally treating for 20min at 30 ℃ by using 0.1g/L catalase.
③ modification: respectively modifying the yarns in the step II according to the weaving design amount, wherein the modified yarns are as follows: immersing the yarn into a modification treatment solution BS which accounts for 0.6 percent of the weight of the yarn, and modifying for 40min at 80 ℃; and (2) modified yarn II: immersing the yarn into a modification treatment solution BS accounting for 5 percent of the weight of the yarn, and modifying for 40min at 80 ℃.
Weaving: and (4) sizing the modified yarns with different concentrations in the step (III) and the unmodified yarns in the step (II), drying, and performing weaving procedures such as warping according to a weaving design scheme. The weave specification of the fabric is as follows: (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + C29s) × (modified yarn one C29s + modified yarn two C29s + C29s)76 × 70114 ".
Pretreatment: and (4) treating the fabric woven in the step (IV) in pretreatment liquid for 30min at 60 ℃, wherein the treatment liquid contains 10g/L of desizing enzyme and DT-J011 g/L of scouring agent.
Sixthly, dyeing: dyeing the fabric pretreated in the fifth step, adding the well-treated plant dye at a constant speed at room temperature for 15-20 min, heating to 60 ℃ at a heating rate of 1 ℃/min after adding, and keeping the temperature for 20 min; the staining solution consists of water and 0.9% (o.w.f) of the vegetable dye rose bengal.
Seventh, tentering: tentering the dyed fabric in the step (c), wherein the tentering process is as follows: 40 +/-5 m/min, drying chamber temperature: no. 1, No. 8 and No. 160 +/-5 ℃; 2# to 7#170 +/-2 ℃, and the cropping width: 264 plus or minus 0.5 cm.
Comparative example 3
The comparative example is a method for modifying pure cotton fabric and dyeing plant dye, and comprises the following specific steps:
weaving: 29-inch pure cotton yarns are adopted for weaving (the sizing, weaving and desizing processes are the same as the examples), and the weave specification of the fabric is as follows: c29s × C29s76 × 70114 ".
Secondly, pretreatment: and (3) immersing the fabric in the step (I) into a pretreatment liquid, and treating for 45min at 98 ℃.
The treating fluid contains a scouring agent DT-J012 g/L, caustic soda 2g/L, hydrogen peroxide 6g/L and a TX-908 chelating dispersant 1 g/L.
Washing with water: washing the pretreated cotton yarn once, then carrying out acid neutralization for 10min at 60 ℃ by using 0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, and finally treating for 20min at 30 ℃ by using 0.1g/L catalase.
Modification: and (4) immersing the fabric in the step (III) into the modification solution BS, and modifying for 30min at 80 ℃.
Dyeing: dyeing the modified fabric obtained in the step (iv), adding the well-modified vegetable dye at a constant speed at room temperature, heating to 80 ℃ at a heating rate of 1 ℃/min, keeping the temperature for 60min, draining, washing with cold water once, and soaping at 90 ℃ for 10 min. The dyeing liquid comprises water and 0.9% (o.w.f) of vegetable dye rose bengal, and the soaping liquid comprises 1.5g/L of CA-325 soaping agent.
Sixthly, tentering: tentering the dyed fabric in the fifth step, wherein the tentering process is as follows: 40 +/-5 m/min, drying chamber temperature: no. 1, No. 8 and No. 160 +/-5 ℃; 2# to 7#170 +/-2 ℃, and the cropping width: 264 plus or minus 0.5 cm.
Comparative example 4
The comparative example is a traditional dyeing method of pure cotton fabric, and comprises the following specific steps:
weaving: weaving by adopting 29-inch pure cotton yarns, wherein the weave specification of the fabric is as follows: c29s × C29s76 × 70114 ".
Secondly, pretreatment: and (3) immersing the fabric in the step (I) into a pretreatment liquid, and treating for 45min at 98 ℃.
The treating fluid contains a scouring agent DT-J012 g/L, caustic soda 2g/L, hydrogen peroxide 6g/L and a TX-908 chelating dispersant 1 g/L.
Washing with water: washing the pretreated cotton yarn once, then carrying out acid neutralization for 10min at 60 ℃ by using 0.8g/L glacial acetic acid, and finally treating for 20min at 30 ℃ by using 0.1g/L catalase.
Fourthly, dyeing: dyeing the fabric pretreated in the step (iv), adding the well-treated dye at a constant speed at room temperature, heating to 60 ℃ at a heating rate of 1 ℃/min, and keeping the temperature for 60min, wherein the dyeing solution comprises reactive dyes SE red 0.43%, SE yellow 0.02% and SE blue 0.11% (o.w.f); the color of the dye is the same as that of a plant dye, and the contrast fastness is high.
Tentering: tentering the dyed fabric in the fifth step, wherein the tentering process is as follows: 40 +/-5 m/min, drying chamber temperature: no. 1, No. 8 and No. 160 +/-5 ℃; 2# to 7#170 +/-2 ℃, and the cropping width: 264 plus or minus 0.5 cm.
Test example 1
The color test was performed under a D65/10 ℃ light source using the color of the darkest grid in example 1 as a standard sample and examples 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 as test samples. Example 1 is green, example 2 is rose red; example 1 has no test case. The color effect is mainly observed by naked eyes, and the key point is that the higher the cation concentration of the modified cotton is, the darker the color is; whether the coloring of the non-modified cotton fabric is shallow, whether the coloring of the modified cotton fabric is deep and whether the difference is obvious, and the evaluation result is related to the process. The evaluation result is obtained by 5 grades of poor, common, good and excellent, and the average value is obtained after evaluation by 5 senior dyeing and finishing engineers. The results are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 color test results for fabrics dyed in accordance with examples of the present invention
DL* | Da* | Db* | DE* | Cloth cover effect | |
Example 2 | - | - | - | - | Good effect |
Comparative example 1 | -2.30 | +0.36 | -0.92 | 2.50 | Is poor |
Comparative example 2 | +2.06 | -0.03 | -0.21 | 2.07 | In general |
Comparative example 3 | +1.26 | +0.03 | +0.68 | 1.43 | In general |
Comparative example 4 | ~0.06 | +0.23 | +0.13 | 0.27 | Good effect |
As shown in Table 1, in comparative example 1, anhydrous sodium sulphate is added in the dyeing process to play a role in accelerating the dyeing, so that the color is deepened; but the color effect is obviously reduced, the color on the unmodified cotton is obviously improved, the color difference of the color cloth surface is reduced, and the color light is darkened. As can be seen from comparative example 2, the dyeing depth of the fabric modified by the modifier BS is reduced, the color effect is not as good as that of the fabric modified by the modifier ACP, and the overall effect is general; in the comparative example 3, the dyed color of the fabric is slightly lighter than the color of the yarn-dyed fabric, and the cloth surface has no patterns; in comparative example 4, the fabrics have similar colors, the color difference delta E is 0.27, the colors are similar, and the fabrics can be used as fastness comparison test samples.
Test example 2
The fastness tests were carried out on the fabrics dyed in example 1, example 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4, respectively, and the results are shown in Table 2.
Wherein the soaping color fastness is tested according to GB/T3921-2008 soaping color fastness resistance test of textile color fastness test; testing the color fastness to rubbing according to GB/T3920-2008 'color fastness to rubbing test of textiles'; the color fastness to perspiration is tested according to GB/T3922-2013 'color fastness to perspiration of textile color fastness test'. And the water color fastness is as per GB/T5713-2013 ' color fastness to water ' of textile color fastness test '.
TABLE 2 fastness properties of dyed fabrics of the examples of the invention
As can be seen from Table 2, the fastness to washout and wet rubbing of the rose color is superior to the green color of life, possibly related to the structure of the dye; the fastness of the fabric dyed with the anhydrous sodium sulphate decreases, probably because of the over-saturation of the dye on the fabric; the fastness of the dyed fabric modified by the modifier BS is lower, probably because the cationic property of the modifier BS is weaker, the covalent bond formed between the modifier BS and the dye is lower in energy and poorer in fastness; in comparative example 3, the fastness of the fabric which is woven and then modified and dyed is also reduced compared with the dyed fabric of the yarn-imitating fabric, which shows that the dyeing mode of the yarn-imitating fabric can improve the fastness of the fabric; as can be seen from comparative example 4, the fabric dyed by this method is able to approach the fastness of the fabric dyed with chemical dyes.
As can be seen from the above examples, the process flow of the present invention mainly comprises yarn modification → weaving → fabric dyeing, wherein the yarn modification process causes the cellulose yarn to contain different amounts of cations; after the fabric is woven according to the yarn-dyed weave structure, the fabric is dyed by adopting plant dye under the neutral condition. The cellulose fabric modified and woven by the process can obtain imitated color patterns after being dyed by vegetable dye, has rich colors and styles, better dyeing effect and high color fastness, and is suitable for industrial large-scale production.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that various modifications to these embodiments can be implemented by those skilled in the art without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and these modifications should be construed as the scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A preparation method of a plant dye yarn-dyed fabric comprises the following steps:
s1, providing cellulose yarns with different cation contents;
s2, sizing the cellulose yarns with different cation contents respectively, and weaving according to yarn-dyed tissue structure design to obtain cellulose fabric;
and S3, desizing the cellulose fabric, and dyeing by adopting plant dye under a neutral condition to obtain the dyed fabric with a similar yarn-dyed effect.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the cellulose yarns having different cation contents are obtained by:
bleaching the cellulose raw yarn, dividing the bleached yarn into a plurality of parts, and treating the parts by using cationic modifiers with different concentrations to obtain cellulose yarns with different cationic contents.
3. The method of claim 2, wherein the cationic modifier is used in an amount of 0 to 6% by weight based on the weight of the yarn.
4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the sizing is carried out using starch, the sizing agent preferably comprising: 3-5 g/L of starch, 1-2 g/L of humectant and 3-5 g/L of smoothing agent.
5. The method according to claim 4, wherein the weaving is performed by weaving, and the steps include warping, drafting, and beating-up.
6. The method according to claim 4, wherein the desizing is performed using a desizing liquid containing a desizing enzyme, and the concentration of the desizing enzyme is preferably 2% to 8%.
7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cellulose yarn main body having different cation contents is one or more of cotton, hemp, tencel and viscose.
8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the plant dye is one or more selected from the group consisting of a green plant dye, a red plant dye, a yellow plant dye, a blue plant dye and a black plant dye.
9. The method according to claim 8, wherein the dyeing is carried out in a dyeing bath consisting of a vegetable dye and water; the usage amount of the vegetable dye is preferably 0.01-5% by weight of the fabric; the dyeing temperature is preferably 60-80 ℃.
10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the dyeing is sequentially washed with water and soaped, and preferably further comprises tentering or preshrinking the washed dyed fabric.
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