CN112921488B - Jacquard fabric with velvet feeling and weaving method and application thereof - Google Patents

Jacquard fabric with velvet feeling and weaving method and application thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112921488B
CN112921488B CN202110092017.4A CN202110092017A CN112921488B CN 112921488 B CN112921488 B CN 112921488B CN 202110092017 A CN202110092017 A CN 202110092017A CN 112921488 B CN112921488 B CN 112921488B
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jacquard
bar
needle bed
bars
guide
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CN202110092017.4A
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CN112921488A (en
Inventor
蔡清来
刘恋
林丽冰
蔡燕玲
陈小梅
许雅玲
郭隆兴
杨利飞
蔡雅诗
周用民
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Sincetech Fujian Technology Co Ltd
Sincetech Fujian New Material Technology Co Ltd
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Sincetech Fujian Technology Co Ltd
Sincetech Fujian New Material Technology Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Abstract

The invention discloses a jacquard fabric with velvet feeling, a weaving method and application thereof, wherein the jacquard fabric comprises a velvet feeling area and a non-velvet feeling area which are integrally woven; the non-velvet feeling area comprises a first surface layer, a first middle layer and a first bottom layer, and the first surface layer is formed by weaving a first group of guide bars on a front needle bed; the first middle layer is formed by simultaneously weaving a second group of guide bars on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed and is used for connecting the first surface layer and the first bottom layer; the first bottom layer is knitted by a third group of guide bars on the back needle bed; the pile feeling area comprises a second surface layer and a second bottom layer, the second surface layer is a pile-shaped structure which is formed by simultaneously weaving a second group of guide bars on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed and does not hang yarns on the front needle bed, the bottom of the pile-shaped structure is connected with the second bottom layer, and the second bottom layer is formed by weaving a first group of guide bars and a third group of guide bars on the rear needle bed. The jacquard fabric is used for vamp clothes and the like. The shape and the size of the jacquard fabric velvet feeling area can be flexibly and controllably woven according to the knitting position of a needle bed of the jacquard guide bar, the variability is strong, the jacquard fabric velvet feeling area is integrally woven, and the process is saved.

Description

Jacquard fabric with velvet feeling and weaving method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of warp knitting, in particular to a jacquard fabric with velvet feeling, a knitting method and application thereof.
Background
The textile fabric is developed for many years, the comfort, the process, the hand feeling, the quality, the style and the like of the textile fabric are greatly improved, the requirements of consumers are increasingly improved, the cost is controlled, the requirements of the consumers are met, the novel sense and the competitiveness are achieved, and the common pursuit target in the industry at present is achieved.
At present, warp-knitted fabrics are widely applied to the fields of textile shoes, clothes, home furnishing and the like, but the prior warp-knitted fabrics have the following problems: 1. the warp-knitted velvet-feeling textiles at present are many, but are formed by splicing local velvet feeling, flocking and the like, velvet-feeling fabrics in jacquard are basically processed after napping, velvet cutting and other napping processes, the process is complex, local napping fabrics cannot be obtained, local velvet is spliced by cloth samples, and the process is complicated; 2. the cloth cover style that present screen cloth presented: the meshes are simple, and the layering effect is single; 3. due to the limitation that a machine table is used for sending yarns for a pan head to weave the mesh cloth in the market, certain limitation is imposed on the manufacturing requirement of the mesh cloth on the basis that the same warp sending amount of the same tension is required to be consistent, so that the mesh cloth is single in structure and regular; 4. due to the process limitation on the market, the split structure is manufactured in a combined mode, but the split structure is simple plain cloth mesh and jacquard.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems, the invention provides a jacquard fabric with velvet feeling and a weaving method thereof, the jacquard fabric with the velvet feeling is woven by reasonably designing jacquard guide bars and weaving processes of the guide bars and combining the high elastic shrinkage performance and soft low-elastic yarns of spandex, and a region requiring the velvet feeling can be freely designed according to requirements, the variability is strong, the structure different from the conventional mesh fabric can be locally presented, the cost can be reduced by integrally weaving and forming operation, and the efficiency is improved; the mesh cloth combined with the velvet feeling effect has the effects of softness, skin friendliness and the like; the jacquard fabric is more abundant. The jacquard fabric can be used in the fields of vamps, clothes, home furnishing and the like.
According to an aspect of the present invention, there is provided a jacquard fabric having a pile sense, the jacquard fabric including a pile sense region and a non-pile sense region, the pile sense region and the non-pile sense region being integrally woven, and the jacquard fabric being woven by a two-needle bed warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of guide bars, wherein a first set of guide bars includes at least two separated jacquard guide bars, a second set of guide bars includes at least one guide bar, a third set of guide bars includes at least one guide bar, and the first, second and third sets of guide bars are arranged adjacent to each other in sequence;
the non-velvet feeling area comprises a first surface layer, a first middle layer and a first bottom layer which are sequentially stacked from top to bottom and integrally woven, the first surface layer is formed by weaving a first group of guide bars on a front needle bed, and the first group of guide bars do not participate in the weaving of the first bottom layer; the first middle layer is formed by simultaneously weaving a front needle bed and a rear needle bed through a second group of guide bars, and the first middle layer is used for connecting the first surface layer and the first bottom layer; the first bottom layer is formed by weaving a third group of guide bars on a back needle bed;
the pile feeling zone comprises a second surface layer and a second bottom layer which are sequentially stacked and integrally woven from top to bottom, the second surface layer is a pile loop pile-shaped structure which is formed by simultaneously weaving a second group of guide bars at a front needle bed and a rear needle bed and not hanging yarns at the front needle bed, the bottom of the pile loop pile-shaped structure is connected with the second bottom layer, and the second bottom layer is formed by weaving the first group of guide bars and a third group of guide bars at the rear needle bed.
Preferably, the first face layer is a plain weave having a counter-drawn hole structure, the plain weave being formed by shifting an offset through a flat weave.
Preferably, the first facing further comprises a mesh structure.
Preferably, the knitting yarn of the first surface layer is chemical fiber covering yarn; the knitting yarn of the first middle layer is at least one of chemical fiber high-elastic yarn and single-hole yarn; the weaving yarn of the first bottom layer is at least one of chemical fiber filament and covering yarn.
Preferably, the knitting yarns of the second face layer are the same as the knitting yarns of the first intermediate layer; the second bottom layer of knitting yarns includes the first face layer and the first bottom layer of knitting yarns.
Preferably, the knitting yarn of the first surface layer is at least one of nylon spandex core-spun yarn and polyester spandex core-spun yarn of 50-600D; the knitting yarn of the first middle layer is at least one of 30-200D of polyamide semi-gloss high-elastic yarn, polyester semi-gloss high-elastic yarn and polyester monofilament; the knitting yarn of the first bottom layer is at least one of 50-600D nylon semi-gloss filament, polyester spandex core-spun yarn and nylon spandex core-spun yarn.
Preferably, the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising a split jacquard bar JB1 and a jacquard bar JB2, the second set of bars comprising a bar GB3, and the third set of bars comprising a bar GB4 and a bar GB 5;
the first surface layer is a plain weave with a split-draw hole structure formed by a jacquard guide bar JB1 and a jacquard guide bar JB2 in a flat weave at the front needle bed and by a weave change offset; the first middle layer is a chaining tissue formed by weaving a guide bar GB3 on a front needle bed and a rear needle bed; the first bottom layer is a variable warp-forged tissue and a warp-flat tissue which are knitted by a guide bar GB4 and a guide bar GB5 on a back needle bed;
the second surface layer is a terry pile-shaped tissue which is formed by weaving chain tissues on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed through a guide bar GB3 and is not subjected to yarn hanging on the front needle bed, and the bottom of the terry pile-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer; the second bottom layer is formed by knitting a warp-flat stitch through a jacquard guide bar JB1 and a jacquard guide bar JB2 and a warp-flat stitch through a guide bar GB4 and a guide bar GB 5.
Preferably, the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising split bar JB1, bar JB2, bar JB3 and bar JB4, the second set of bars comprising bar GB5, and the third set of bars comprising bar GB 6;
the first surface layer is plain weave with a drawing hole formed by a jacquard guide bar JB1 and a jacquard guide bar JB2 through warp flat weaving on the front needle bed and through weave change offset, and the jacquard guide bar JB3 and the jacquard guide bar JB4 form jacquard weave through warp flat weaving on the front needle bed and through weave change offset, so that the first surface layer comprises a plain weave layer and a jacquard weave layer; the first middle layer is a chaining tissue formed by weaving a guide bar GB5 on a front needle bed and a rear needle bed; the first bottom layer is a warp recombined weave structure which is weaved by a guide bar GB6 on a back needle bed;
the second surface layer is a terry pile-shaped tissue which is formed by weaving chain tissues on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed through a guide bar GB5 and is not subjected to yarn hanging on the front needle bed, and the bottom of the terry pile-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer; the second bottom layer is knitted by a jacquard guide bar JB1, a jacquard guide bar JB2, a jacquard guide bar JB3 and a jacquard guide bar JB4 running warp flat stitches at the back needle bed and a running warp heavy stitch at a guide bar GB 6.
Preferably, the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle-bed warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising a split jacquard bar JB1 and a jacquard bar JB2, the second set of bars comprising a bar GB3 and a bar GB4, and the third set of bars comprising a bar GB5 and a bar GB 6;
the first surface layer is a plain weave with a counter-pull hole formed by a jacquard guide bar JB1 and a jacquard guide bar JB2 in a flat weave at the front needle bed and a weave change offset; the first middle layer is formed by knitting chain knitting organization through a guide bar GB3 and a guide bar GB4 on a front needle bed and a back needle bed; the first bottom layer is formed by knitting a warp-forged tissue and a warp-flat tissue in a back needle bed through a guide bar GB5 and a guide bar GB 6;
the second surface layer is a terry pile-shaped structure which is formed by weaving chain structures on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed through a guide bar GB3 and is not subjected to yarn hanging on the front needle bed, and the bottom of the terry pile-shaped structure is connected with the second bottom layer; the second bottom layer is formed by knitting a warp flat weave through a jacquard guide bar JB1 and a jacquard guide bar JB2 and a variable warp knitting weave and a chain knitting weave through a guide bar GB5 and a guide bar GB 6.
According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of knitting a jacquard fabric having a pile feeling, the jacquard fabric integrally knitted, comprising the steps of:
preparation of knitting: designing the pattern of the fabric on a computer, and processing a computer-operated file by using autonomous computer-operated software;
b, guide bar configuration: a double needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having at least three sets of guide bars, comprising a first set of guide bars, a second set of guide bars and a third set of guide bars arranged adjacently in sequence, wherein the first set of guide bars comprises at least two separate jacquard guide bars, the second set of guide bars comprises at least one guide bar, and the third set of guide bars comprises at least one guide bar;
c, threading: each guide bar is provided with six pan heads, the first group of guide bars are threaded in a one-empty-one threading mode, and the second group of guide bars and the third group of guide bars are threaded in a full threading mode;
d, weaving non-velvet areas: the first set of guide bars forms a first face layer of a non-pile-feeling zone of the jacquard fabric at the front needle bed, and the first set of guide bars do not participate in the knitting of the bottom layer; the second set of guide bars are woven simultaneously on the front and back needle beds to form a first middle layer of a non-pile area of the jacquard fabric; the third group of guide bars weave a first bottom layer of a non-pile feeling area of the jacquard fabric on a back needle bed; the first middle layer is used for connecting the first surface layer and the first bottom layer.
E, knitting a velvet area: the first group of guide bars run a warp flat structure on a back needle bed, and simultaneously, the first group of guide bars and the third group of guide bars weave a bottom layer to form a second bottom layer of a pile feeling area of the jacquard fabric, and the first group of guide bars do not participate in the weaving of the second surface layer; the second group of guide bars are knitted on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed simultaneously, yarn is not hung on the upper portion of the second group of guide bars on the front needle bed, a terry pile-shaped structure is formed, the bottom of the terry pile-shaped structure is connected with the second bottom layer, and then the second surface layer of the jacquard fabric velvet feeling area is formed.
Preferably, the first group of guide bars run the warp flat weave and carry out the opposite pulling structure weaving through the weave changing offset to form a plain weave with opposite pulling holes, thereby forming a first surface layer; and the second group of guide bars run a chain stitch when the D non-velvet-feeling area (2) and the E velvet-feeling area (1) are knitted.
Preferably, the first set of bars run tricot 1-0/1-0/1-2/1-2// and tricot two 1-2/1-0/1-0/1-2//; when the first group of guide bars are used for weaving the non-velvet feeling area, the surface layer is subjected to weave transformation to realize offset to form plain weave with a counter-pull hole structure, and the warp flat weave is offset to be 1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2//; the second shift of the meridian plane is 2-3/1-1/1-0/2-2//; when knitting the velvet zone, the warp flat tissues shift to at least one of 1-1/1-0/2-2/1-2// 1-0/1-0/2-2/1-2// and 1-1/1-0/2-2/1-2// respectively; the second meridian is shifted to at least one of 2-2/1-0/1-1/1-2//, 2-2/1-0/1-0/1-2// and 2-2/1-0/1-1/1-2/;
the second bar running pillar stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// or 1-2-1-0/2-1-2-3//;
the third guide bar walks through satin stitch 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1/1-1/1-2/2-2/2-1// or the warp plain stitch 1-1/1-2/1-1/1-0//.
Preferably, the first facing of the non-pile feeling zone further comprises a mesh structure.
Preferably, the knitting yarn of the first surface layer is chemical fiber core-spun yarn; the knitting yarn of the first middle layer is at least one of chemical fiber high-elastic yarn and single-hole yarn; the weaving yarn of the first bottom layer is at least one of chemical fiber filament and core-spun yarn.
Preferably, the knitting yarns of the second face layer are the same as the knitting yarns of the first intermediate layer; the second bottom layer of knitting yarns includes the first face layer and the first bottom layer of knitting yarns.
Preferably, the knitting yarn of the first surface layer is at least one of nylon spandex core-spun yarn and polyester spandex core-spun yarn of 50-600D; the knitting yarn of the first middle layer is at least one of 30-200D of polyamide semi-gloss high-elastic yarn, polyester semi-gloss high-elastic yarn and polyester monofilament; the weaving yarn of the first bottom layer is at least one of 50-600D of nylon semi-gloss filament, polyester spandex core-spun yarn and nylon spandex core-spun yarn.
Preferably, the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle-bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising a split jacquard bar JB1 and a jacquard bar JB2, the second set of bars comprising a bar GB3, the third set of bars comprising a bar GB4 and a bar GB 5;
the jacquard guide bars JB1 and JB2 run a warp flat weave at the front needle bed and form a plain weave with opposite pulling holes through weave change offset so as to form the first surface layer; the guide bar GB3 knits the stitch at the front and back needle beds to form the first intermediate layer; the guide bar GB4 and the guide bar GB5 form the first bottom layer by changing a warp forged tissue and a warp flat tissue at a back needle bed;
the guide bar GB3 is used for knitting chain stitch on a front needle bed and a rear needle bed, and the front needle bed does not hang yarns to form a pile velvet-shaped stitch, the bottom of the pile velvet-shaped stitch is connected with the second bottom layer, and the second surface layer is further formed; the jacquard guide bar JB1 and jacquard guide bar JB2 run the back needle bed at the same time the guide bar GB4 and guide bar GB5 run the change warp and warp flat stitch at the back needle bed, form the second bottom layer.
Preferably, the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising split bar JB1, bar JB2, bar JB3 and bar JB4, the second set of bars comprising bar GB5, and the third set of bars comprising bar GB 6;
the jacquard guide bar JB1 and the jacquard guide bar JB2 run a warp flat weave on the front needle bed and form a plain weave with a pull hole through a weave change offset, and the jacquard guide bar JB3 and the jacquard guide bar JB4 run a warp flat weave on the front needle bed and form a jacquard weave through a weave change offset, so as to form the first surface layer (20) which comprises a plain weave layer and a jacquard weave layer; the bar GB5 forms the first intermediate layer (21) with a front needle bed and a rear needle bed knitted chain stitch; the guide bar GB6 is used for forming the first bottom by running warp recombination knitting on a back needle bed;
the guide bar GB5 is used for knitting chain stitch on a front needle bed and a rear needle bed, and the front needle bed does not hang yarns to form a pile velvet-shaped stitch, the bottom of the pile velvet-shaped stitch is connected with the second bottom layer, and the second surface layer is further formed; the jacquard bar JB1, jacquard bar JB2, jacquard bar JB3 and jacquard bar JB4 run the warp flat weave at the back needle bed while bar GB6 runs the warp heavy weave at the back needle bed, forming the second bottom layer.
Preferably, the jacquard fabric is knitted by a two-needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising a split jacquard bar JB1 and a jacquard bar JB2, the second set of bars comprising a bar GB3 and a bar GB4, the third set of bars comprising a bar GB5 and a bar GB 6;
the jacquard guide bar JB1 and the jacquard guide bar JB2 run a warp flat weave on the front needle bed and form a plain weave structure with opposite pulling holes through weave change offset so as to form the first surface layer; the guide bar GB3, guide bar GB4 forms the first middle layer by knitting chain stitch at the front needle bed and the back needle bed; the guide bar GB5 and the guide bar GB6 form the first bottom layer by changing a warp forged tissue and a warp flat tissue at a back needle bed;
the guide bar GB3 walks knitting chain tissue on the front needle bed and the rear needle bed, and the front needle bed does not hang yarn to form a terry velvet-shaped tissue, the bottom of the terry velvet-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer, and then the second surface layer (11) is formed; the jacquard guide bar JB1 and jacquard guide bar JB2 run the warp flat weave while the guide bar GB5 and guide bar GB6 run the varying warp knit weave and the pillar knit weave to form the second base layer.
According to an aspect of the invention, a new application of a jacquard fabric with a velvet feeling for uppers and garments is provided. Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the invention are embodied in the following aspects:
1. the invention realizes the integrated weaving of local velvet fabrics on the double-needle-bed jacquard machine, and the shape and the size of the napping part can be flexibly and controllably according to the weaving position of the needle bed of the jacquard guide bar, thereby having the characteristics of strong variability and high controllability.
2. The non-velvet feeling area is formed by weaving a structure meeting the requirement of independent weaving into a surface by using a jacquard guide bar, and the surface is woven by a split structure through the jacquard guide bar, so that the plain weave is in a split small hole shape and a mesh design; the bottom layer can be matched with weave structures such as plain weave, meshes and the like, and the scheme adopts the matching of a chain and a warp flat weave to present a uniform small mesh effect; meanwhile, the elastic core-spun yarn is combined to weave the surface layer, the high-elastic yarn or the low-elastic yarn to weave the middle layer and the bottom layer, so that the formed fabric has the advantages of soft hand feeling, contractibility, uniform distribution of opposite pulling holes and rich tissue collocation.
3. The invention adopts integrated weaving, greatly improves the process limitation, can integrally weave the napping part, saves post-finishing processes such as napping, cutting, splicing and the like, reduces the process cost and labor power and saves the time.
4. The middle layer and the bottom layer of the fabric are made of yarns with different colors, and the linking lines of the middle layer and the color and the texture of the bottom layer can penetrate through the mesh structure of the surface layer, so that the structure level of the fabric is clearer.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic structural cross-sectional view of a fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic structural view of fabrics according to examples 1 and 3 of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic structural view of a fabric according to example 2 of the present invention;
fig. 4 is a flow chart of a weaving process according to an embodiment of the present invention.
A pile sense region 1, a second surface layer 11, a second bottom layer 12, a non-pile sense region 2, a first surface layer 20, a mesh structure 200, a first middle layer 21 and a first bottom layer 22.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further explained with reference to the drawings and examples.
Example of the first embodiment
A jacquard fabric having a pile feeling according to an embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to fig. 1 and 2.
A jacquard fabric with a pile sense according to an embodiment of the present invention includes a pile sense region 1 and a non-pile sense region 2, the pile sense region 1 and the non-pile sense region 2 are integrally woven, and the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bed warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of guide bars, wherein a first set of guide bars includes two separated jacquard guide bars JB3 and jacquard guide bar JB4, a second set of guide bars includes a ground guide bar GB5, a third set of guide bars includes a ground guide bar GB6 and ground guide bar GB7, and the first, second and third sets of guide bars are sequentially arranged adjacently;
the non-velvet-feeling area 2 comprises a first surface layer 20, a first middle layer 21 and a first bottom layer 22 which are sequentially laminated from top to bottom and integrally woven, the first face layer 20 is a plain weave having a split-hole structure knitted by jacquard bar JB3 and jacquard bar JB4 at the front needle bed, the plain weave is formed by a tricot weave 1-0/1-0/1-2/1-2// shift to 1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2// and a tricot weave 1-2/1-0/1-0/1-2// shift to 2-3/1-1/1-0/2-2// shift, and said jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 do not participate in the knitting of said first bottom layer 22; the first middle layer 21 is a chaining stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//, which is formed by knitting a ground guide bar GB5 at a front needle bed and a back needle bed, and the first middle layer 21 is used for connecting the first surface layer 20 and the first bottom layer 22; the first bottom layer 22 is formed by weaving ground guide bar GB6 of the third group of guide bars in back needle bed running change warp satin weave 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1/1-1/1-2/2-2/2-1 and ground guide bar GB7 in back needle bed running warp plain weave 1-1/1-2/1-1/1-0// weaving.
The velvet zone 1 comprises a second surface layer 11 and a second bottom layer 12 which are sequentially laminated from top to bottom and integrally knitted, the second surface layer 11 is a terry velvet-shaped tissue formed by a ground bar GB5 in a front needle bed and a rear needle bed running chain tissue 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// without hanging yarns on the front needle bed, the bottom of the terry velvet-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer 12, the second bottom layer 12 is formed by a jacquard bar JB3 running warp flat tissue and respectively shifted into 1-1/1-0/2-2/1-2// and a jacquard bar JB4 running warp flat tissue and respectively shifted into 2-2/1-0/1-1/1-2// and a ground bar GB6 running change warp satin tissue 1-1/1-0/0-0% 0-1/1-1/1-2/2-2/2-1/and a ground guide bar GB7 are formed by weaving a back needle bed with a warp flat stitch 1-1/1-2/1-1/1-0// knitting.
In the embodiment, the knitting yarns of the first surface layer of the non-velvet feeling area of the jacquard fabric are 70D/140D/48F nylon white high stretch yarn spandex single covered yarns (S300), the knitting yarns of the first middle layer are 70D/24F nylon semi-gloss white high stretch yarns (light net # empty covered 01A11#), and the knitting yarns of the first bottom layer are 150D/48F semi-gloss white low stretch light net yarns and 70D/150D/48F polyester white high stretch yarn spandex single covered yarns (S300). The yarns of the second face layer are the same as the yarns of the first middle layer, and the yarns of the second bottom layer comprise the yarns of the first face layer and the first bottom layer.
A method of knitting a jacquard fabric having a pile feeling according to an embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to fig. 4.
The jacquard fabric with the pile feeling weaving method comprises the following steps:
preparation of knitting: designing the pattern of the fabric on a computer, and processing a computer-operated file by using autonomous computer-operated software;
b, guide bar configuration: knitting with a two-needle bed single jacquard warp knitting machine with 7 guide bars, which is set in sequence from the front needle bed to the back needle bed as ground guide bar GB1, ground guide bar GB2, jacquard guide bar JB3, jacquard guide bar JB4, ground guide bar GB5, ground guide bar GB6, ground guide bar GB7, wherein ground guide bar GB1, ground guide bar GB2 are empty, i.e. not threaded, there are three groups of guide bars on which yarns can be knitted, including a first group of guide bars, a second group of guide bars and a third group of guide bars arranged adjacently in sequence, wherein the first group of guide bars includes two separate jacquard guide bars JB3 and jacquard guide bar JB4, the second group of guide bars includes jacquard guide bar GB5, the third group includes ground guide bar GB6 and jacquard guide bar GB 7;
c, threading: each guide bar is provided with six pan heads, a ground guide bar GB1 and a ground guide bar GB2 are all empty-threading and do not participate in knitting, and jacquard guide bars JB3 and jacquard guide bars JB4 are all used for threading two yarns and one yarn is threaded in a mode of threading 1 empty; the ground guide bar GB5, the ground guide bar GB6 and the ground guide bar GB7 are threaded in a full-threading mode;
jacquard bar JB 3: warping 70D/140D/48F chinlon white high stretch yarn spandex single-covered yarn (S300), wherein 496 yarns are respectively arranged at each pan head of 6 pan heads, the jacquard guide bar JB3 yarn is threaded in two-in-one mode (two yarns are threaded in one-in-one mode and one yarn is threaded in an empty mode) on a machine, and the let-off amount of a gear is 3000 mm/wax;
jacquard bar JB 4: warping 70D/140D/48F chinlon white high stretch yarn spandex single-covered yarn (S300), wherein each pan head has 496 yarns of 6 pan heads, the jacquard guide bar JB4 yarn is threaded in two-in-one mode on a machine (two yarns are threaded in one-in-one mode and one is threaded in an empty mode), and the let-off amount of a gear is 3000 mm/wax gram;
ground guide bar GB 5: warping 70D/24F chinlon semi-bright white high stretch yarn (light net # empty package 01A11#), enabling 496 yarns of each pan head of 6 pan heads, fully threading ground guide bar GB5 yarns on a machine, and enabling the gear let-off amount to be 6500 mm/wax;
ground guide bar GB 6: the 150D/48F semi-bright white low-elasticity light gauze is warped, 496 yarns of each pan head of 6 pan heads are wound, the yarn winding mode of a ground guide bar GB6 yarn on a machine table is full yarn winding, and the gear let-off quantity is 1950 mm/wax;
ground guide bar GB 7: warping 70D/150D/48F polyester white high stretch yarn spandex single-covered yarn (S300), wherein each pan head has 496 yarns for 6 pan heads, the yarn threading mode of a ground guide bar GB7 on a machine is full threading, and the let-off amount of a gear is 2300 mm/park;
d, weaving the non-velvet feeling area 2: jacquard bar JB3 runs a warp-knit stitch at the front needle bed, is knitted in a split structure by means of warp-knit stitch 1-0/1-0/1-2/1-2// shift offset 1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2// shift, jacquard bar JB4 runs a warp-knit stitch at the front needle bed, and forms a plain stitch with split holes by means of warp-knit stitch 1-2/1-0/1-0/1-2// shift offset 2-3/1-1/1-0/2-2// thereby forming a first face layer 20 of non-pile sense region 2 of said jacquard fabric, said first group of bars not participating in the knitting of the bottom layer; floor bar GB5 runs chain stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//, at the front and back needle beds, forming the first middle layer 21 of the non-pile area 2 of the jacquard fabric; the ground guide bar GB6 runs on a back needle bed to change warp satin stitch 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1/1-1/1-2/2-2/2-1//, and the ground guide bar GB7 runs on a back needle bed to run on a warp plain stitch 1-1/1-2/1-1/1-0//, so as to form a first bottom layer 22 of the non-pile feeling area 2 of the jacquard fabric; the first intermediate layer 21 is used to connect the first face layer 20 and the first base layer 22.
E, knitting in a velvet feeling area 1: jacquard bar JB3 runs at a warp flat stitch offset of 1-1/1-0/2-2/1-2//, jacquard bar JB4 runs at the back needle bed at a warp flat stitch offset of 2-2/1-0/1-1/1-2// and is knitted at the back needle bed with floor bar GB6 and floor bar GB7, forming the second bottom layer 12 of the pile area of the jacquard fabric, and jacquard bar JB3 and jacquard bar JB4 do not participate in the knitting of the second panel 11; a ground guide bar GB5 is used for knitting chain tissues on a front needle bed and a rear needle bed, yarns are not hung on the upper part of the ground guide bar GB5 on the front needle bed, a terry pile-shaped tissue is formed, the bottom of the terry pile-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer 12, and a second surface layer 11 of the jacquard fabric velvet feeling area is further formed;
the ground guide bar GB5 and the ground guide bar GB6 and the ground guide bar GB7 are fixed tissues, and the weaving tissues in the velvet feeling area and the non-velvet feeling area are not changed.
In this example, the yarn content of jacquard bar JB3 is 31.534%, the yarn content of jacquard bar JB4 is 31.534%, the yarn content of bar GB5 is 14.671%, the yarn content of floor bar GB6 is 9.413%, and the yarn content of floor bar GB7 is 12.830%.
The jacquard fabric with the velvet feeling provided by the embodiment of the invention can be used on vamps or clothes, has a local velvet feeling effect, does not need to be manufactured by processes such as splicing and the like, and can be designed according to the shape and size of a velvet feeling area.
Example of the second embodiment
According to an embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a jacquard mesh fabric having a sandwich structure with a velvet feeling.
Specifically, the jacquard fabric with a pile sense according to an embodiment of the present invention includes a pile sense region 1 and a non-pile sense region 2, the pile sense region 1 and the non-pile sense region 2 are integrally woven, and the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle-bed warp-knitting jacquard machine having three sets of guide bars, wherein the first set of guide bars includes four split jacquard guide bars JB3, jacquard guide bars JB4, jacquard guide bars JB5, jacquard guide bars JB6, the second set of guide bars includes a ground guide bar GB7, the third set of guide bars includes a ground guide bar GB8, and the first, second, and third sets of guide bars are sequentially arranged adjacently;
the non-velvet feeling area 2 comprises a first face layer 20, a first middle layer 21 and a first bottom layer 22 which are sequentially laminated from top to bottom and integrally woven, the first face layer 20 is a plain weave with a split-hole structure woven by a first group of guide bars on a front needle bed, the plain weave is a plain weave formed by weaving jacquard guide bars JB3, jacquard guide bars JB4, jacquard guide bars JB5 and jacquard guide bars JB6, and the sequentially corresponding warp flat weaves 1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//, 1-2/1-1/1-0/1-1/, 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// and 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// are respectively shifted to be 1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2//, 2-3/1-1/1-0/2-2//, 1-1/1-0/1-1/0-1// and 1-1/1-0/1-1/0-1// are formed and the first set of guide bars do not participate in the knitting of the first bottom layer 22; the first facing layer comprises a mesh structure 200, the diameter of which is 3-10mm, through which the structure of the middle layer can be seen; the first middle layer 21 is a chaining stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1///which is formed by knitting a ground guide bar GB7 on a front needle bed and a back needle bed, and the first middle layer 21 is used for connecting the first surface layer 20 and the first bottom layer 22; the first bottom layer 22 is formed by weaving ground guide bar GB8 with back needle bed double warp knitting 1-1/0-2/2-2/3-1// to form.
The velvet zone 1 comprises a second surface layer 11 and a second bottom layer 12 which are sequentially laminated from top to bottom and integrally knitted, the second surface layer 11 is a terry velvet stitch formed by a ground guide bar GB7 on a front needle bed and a rear needle bed by knitting chain stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// without hanging yarn on the front needle bed, the bottom of the terry velvet stitch is connected with the second bottom layer 12, the second bottom layer 12 is formed by a jacquard guide bar JB3 and a jacquard guide bar JB4, and a rear needle bed by warp flat stitch 1-0/1-0/1-2/1-2// 1-2/1-1/1-0/1-1// which are sequentially changed into 1-1/1-1/2-2/1-2// and, 2-2/1-1/1-1/1-2// stitch, jacquard bar JB5, and jacquard bar JB6 are knitted by running flat stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// and 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// at the back needle bed, and simultaneously, the ground bar GB8 is knitted by running heavy warp stitch 1-1/0-2/2-2/3-1// at the back needle bed.
In the embodiment, the knitting yarn of the first surface layer of the non-velvet feeling area of the jacquard fabric is 70D/140D/48F chinlon white high-elastic yarn spandex single covered yarn (S300), the knitting yarn of the first middle layer is P-DT30D/1F semi-gloss, and the knitting yarn of the first bottom layer is P-DTY200D/96F semi-gloss high-elastic light net. The yarns of the second surface layer are the same as the yarns of the first middle layer, and the yarns of the second bottom layer comprise the yarns of the first surface layer and the first bottom layer.
When knitting the non-pile feeling zone, the jacquard guide bar JB3 and the jacquard guide bar JB4 are offset as above and are knitted into a plain weave layer of a split structure of the first surface layer; the jacquard guide bars JB5 and JB6 are respectively shifted to 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//, 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//, so that a jacquard layer of the first surface layer is formed, and the layers and the patterns of the first surface layer are richer;
as shown in fig. 3, the first facing includes a mesh structure 200. The upper strata of first surface course and through setting for the yarn colour of first surface course 20, first bottom 22 and first intermediate level 21 different, and collocation mesh structure 200, can see the connecting wire of intermediate level 21 different with the colour of first surface course 20 through mesh structure 200 to and see the yarn colour of first bottom 22 through the space of intermediate level connecting wire, thereby form the rich surface fabric style of colour level.
According to an embodiment of the invention, a jacquard fabric with a velvet feeling is knitted integrally, and the method comprises the following steps:
a, weaving preparation: designing the pattern of the fabric on a computer, and processing a computer-operated file by using autonomous computer-operated software;
b, guide bar configuration: knitting with a two-needle bed sheet jacquard warp knitting machine having 8 guide bars, which is set in sequence from the front needle bed to the back needle bed as ground guide bar GB1, ground guide bar GB2, jacquard guide bar JB3, jacquard guide bar JB4, jacquard guide bar JB5, jacquard guide bar JB6, jacquard guide bar JB7, wherein ground guide bar GB1, jacquard guide bar GB2 are empty-pass, i.e. not threaded, and the guide bars of the knittable yarns have three groups in total, including a first group of guide bars, a second group of guide bars, and a third group of guide bars arranged adjacently in sequence, wherein the first group of guide bars includes four separate jacquard guide bars JB3, jacquard guide bars JB4, jacquard guide bars JB5, and jacquard guide bar JB6, the second group of guide bars includes ground guide bar GB7, and the third group of guide bars includes ground guide bar GB 8;
c, threading: each guide bar is provided with six pan heads, a ground guide bar GB1 and a ground guide bar GB2 are all empty and do not participate in knitting, and jacquard guide bars JB3, JB4, JB5 and JB6 are all threaded in a mode of 1-through 1-empty; the ground guide bar GB7 and the ground guide bar GB8 are threaded in a full-threading mode;
jacquard bar JB 3: warping 70D/140D/48F chinlon white high stretch yarn spandex single-covered yarn (S300), wherein each pan head comprises 256 yarns with 6 pan heads, the jacquard guide bar JB3 yarns are threaded and empty in a threading mode of a machine, and the gear let-off amount is 2000 mm/park;
jacquard bar JB 4: warping 70D/140D/48F chinlon white high stretch yarn spandex single-covered yarn (S300), wherein each pan head comprises 256 yarns with 6 pan heads, the jacquard guide bar JB4 yarns are threaded and empty in a threading mode of a machine, and the gear let-off amount is 2000 mm/park;
jacquard bar JB 5: warping 70D/140D/48F chinlon white high stretch yarn spandex single-covered yarn (S300), wherein each pan head comprises 256 yarns with 6 pan heads, the jacquard guide bar JB3 yarns are threaded and empty in a threading mode of a machine, and the gear let-off amount is 2000 mm/park;
jacquard bar JB 6: warping 70D/140D/48F chinlon white high stretch yarn spandex single-covered yarn (S300), wherein each pan head comprises 256 yarns with 6 pan heads, the jacquard guide bar JB4 yarns are threaded and empty in a threading mode of a machine, and the gear let-off amount is 2000 mm/park;
ground guide bar GB 7: warping P-DT30D/1F semi-finished yarn, wherein each pan head of the 6 pan heads has 512 yarns, the yarn threading mode of a ground guide bar GB5 yarn on a machine is full threading, and the let-off amount of a gear is 7500 mm/wax;
ground guide bar GB 8: the warping P-DTY200D/96F semi-gloss high-elastic light net comprises 512 yarns of 6 pan heads and 512 yarns of each pan head, wherein the yarn threading mode of a ground guide bar GB8 yarn on a machine is full threading, and the gear let-off amount is 3800 mm/wax;
d, weaving the non-velvet feeling area 2: jacquard bar JB3, Jacquard bar JB4, Jacquard bar JB5, and jacquard bar JB6 running warp plain 1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//, 1-2/1-1/1-0/1-1//, 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// and 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// respectively shift to 1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2//, 2-3/1-1/1-0/2-2//, 1-1/1-0/1-1/0-1// and 1-1/1-0/1-1/0-1//, forming a plain weave with counter-pulling holes, thereby forming the first face layer 20 of the non-pile area 2 of said jacquard fabric, the first set of bars not participating in the weaving of the bottom layer; in a knitting software program, when TR is set to be 1, the length of a white tissue is increased to form a macroporous agent mesh structure 200; ground bar GB7 knits stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//, at the front and back needle beds, forming the first middle layer 21 of the non-pile area 2 of the jacquard fabric; the ground bar GB8 runs on the back needle bed to change the heavy warp 1-1/0-2/2-2/3-1//, forming the first bottom layer 22 of the non-pile sense area 2 of the jacquard fabric; the first intermediate layer 21 is used to connect the first face layer 20 and the first base layer 22.
The first knitted surface layer is a double-layer opposite-drawing-hole plain layer, and the shifting modes of the jacquard comb JB5 and the jacquard comb JB6 can be changed to obtain a structure with a jacquard layer and an opposite-drawing-hole plain layer, specifically, the jacquard comb JB5 and the jacquard comb JB6 are respectively shifted to be 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//, 1-0/1-1/0-1/1-1//, so that the jacquard layer of the first surface layer is formed, and other knitting is unchanged.
E knitting in the velvet feeling area 1: jacquard bar JB3, Jacquard bar JB4, rear needle bed running flat stitch 1-0/1-0/1-2/1-2//, 1-2/1-1/1-0/1-1// shift sequentially to 1-1/1-1/2-2/1-2//, 2-2/1-1/1-1/1-2// stitch, Jacquard bar JB5, and Jacquard bar JB6 running flat stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// and 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//, on rear needle bed, at the same time, a ground guide bar GB8 runs at the back needle bed with a heavy warp stitch 1-1/0-2/2-2/3-1//, forming the second bottom layer 12 of the jacquard fabric's pile sense zone, the first group of guide bars not participating in the knitting of the second face layer 11; the ground guide bar GB7 is knitted on a front needle bed and a back needle bed by a chain stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1//, the upper part of the ground guide bar is not hung on the front needle bed to form a terry pile-shaped stitch, and the bottom of the terry pile-shaped stitch is connected with the second bottom layer 12 to form a second surface layer 11 of the jacquard fabric pile sensing area;
in this example, the jacquard bar JB3 yarn content is 9.957%, the jacquard bar JB4 yarn content is 9.957%, the bar JB5 yarn content is 9.957%, the ground bar JB6 yarn content is 9.957%, the ground bar GB7 yarn content is 13.745%, and the ground bar GB8 yarn content is 46.426%.
Example of the third embodiment
According to embodiments of the present invention there is provided a sandwich jacquard fabric having a Q-property with a partially single-hole silk naked velvet effect on the second facing.
More specifically, the jacquard fabric having a pile sense according to an embodiment of the present invention includes a pile sense region 1 and a non-pile sense region 2, the pile sense region 1 and the non-pile sense region 2 are integrally woven, and the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle-bed warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of guide bars, wherein the first set of guide bars includes two separated jacquard guide bars JB3 and jacquard guide bar JB4, the second set of guide bars includes a ground guide bar GB5, the ground guide bar GB6 the third set of guide bars includes a ground guide bar GB7 and a ground guide bar GB8, and the first, second, and third sets of guide bars are sequentially arranged adjacent to each other;
the non-velvet-feeling area 2 comprises a first surface layer 20, a first middle layer 21 and a first bottom layer 22 which are sequentially laminated from top to bottom and integrally woven, the first face layer 20 is a plain weave having a split-hole structure knitted by jacquard bar JB3 and jacquard bar JB4 at the front needle bed, the plain weave is formed by a warp plain weave 1-0/1-0/1-2/1-2// shift to 1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2// and a warp plain weave 1-2/1-0/1-0/1-2// shift to 2-3/1-1/1-0/2-2// respectively, and said jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 do not participate in the knitting of said first bottom layer 22; the first middle layer 21 is a knitting chain tissue 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// and a knitting chain tissue 0-1/0-1/1-0/1-0//, which are knitted by a ground guide bar GB5 and a ground guide bar GB6 at a front needle bed and a rear needle bed; the first middle layer 21 is used for connecting the first surface layer 20 and the first bottom layer 22; the first bottom layer 22 is formed by knitting a ground guide bar GB7 of a third group of guide bars on a back needle bed warp knitting stitch 1-1/2-3/2-2/1-0// 1/and a ground guide bar GB8 on a back needle bed knitting chain stitch 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1// weaving.
The velvet zone 1 comprises a second surface layer 11 and a second bottom layer 12 which are sequentially laminated from top to bottom and integrally knitted, the second surface layer 11 is a terry velvet-shaped stitch which is formed by a ground guide bar GB5 and a ground guide bar GB6 by weaving chain stitches 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// and chain stitches 0-1/0-1/1-0/1-0//, which are not hung on the front needle bed, on the front needle bed and the back needle bed, the bottom of the terry velvet-shaped stitch is connected with the second bottom layer 12, the second bottom layer 12 is formed by a jacquard guide bar JB3 by weaving the warp flat stitch and is respectively shifted to 1-1/1-0/2-2/1-2/and a jacquard guide bar JB4 by weaving the warp flat stitch and is respectively shifted to 2-2/1-0/1-1/1-2 And/or the ground guide bar GB7 is formed by knitting chain stitch 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1// knitting at the back needle bed by running warp knitting stitch 1-1/2-3/2-2/1-0// 1/and the ground guide bar GB 8.
In the embodiment, the knitting yarns of the first surface layer of the non-velvet feeling area of the jacquard fabric are P-DTY200D/96F semi-gloss high-elasticity light nets, the knitting yarns of the first middle layer are P-DT30D/1F semi-gloss, and the knitting yarns of the first bottom layer are 1P-DTY150D/48F CD bright white low-elasticity light nets. The yarns of the second surface layer are the same as the yarns of the first middle layer, and the yarns of the second bottom layer comprise the yarns of the first surface layer and the first bottom layer.
The jacquard fabric with the velvet feeling weaving method comprises the following steps:
preparation of knitting: designing the pattern of the fabric on a computer, and processing a computer-operated file by using autonomous computer-operated software;
b, guide bar configuration: knitting with a double needle bed single jacquard warp knitting machine having eight guide bars, which is set in sequence from the front needle bed to the back needle bed as ground guide bar GB1, ground guide bar GB2, jacquard guide bar JB3, jacquard guide bar JB4, ground guide bar GB5, ground guide bar GB6, ground guide bar GB7 and ground guide bar GB8, wherein ground guide bar GB1, ground guide bar GB2 are empty-running, i.e. not threaded, and the guide bars of the knittable yarn have three sets, including a first set of guide bars, a second set of guide bars and a third set of guide bars, which are arranged adjacently in sequence, wherein the first set of guide bars includes two separate GB guide bars 3 and jacquard guide bar JB4, the second set of guide bars includes ground guide bar 5 and ground guide bar 6, and the third set of guide bars includes ground guide bar GB7 and ground guide bar 7;
c, threading: each guide bar is provided with six pan heads, and the jacquard guide bar JB3 and the jacquard guide bar JB4 are threaded in a mode of threading 1 space; the ground guide bar GB5, the ground guide bar GB6, the ground guide bar GB7 and the ground guide bar GB8 are all threaded in a full-threading mode, and the ground guide bar GB1 and the ground guide bar GB2 are threaded in an empty mode or are not threaded;
jacquard bar JB 3: the beaming P-DTY200D/96F semi-gloss high-elastic light net has 248 yarns per pan head for 6 pan heads, the jacquard guide bar JB3 yarns are threaded one by one in the threading mode of a machine, and the gear let-off quantity is 2200 mm/wax;
jacquard bar JB 4: the warp beaming P-DTY200D/96F semi-gloss high-elastic light net comprises 248 yarns of 6 pan heads and 248 yarns of each pan head, wherein the yarn threading mode of a jacquard guide bar JB4 yarn on a machine table is one-through one-empty, and the let-off amount of a gear is 2200 mm/wax;
ground guide bar GB 5: warping P-DT30D/1F semi-finished yarn, wherein each pan head of 6 pan heads has 496 yarns, the threading mode of a ground guide bar GB5 yarn on a machine is full threading, and the let-off quantity of a gear is 7000 mm/wax;
ground guide bar GB 6: warping P-DT30D/1F semi-finished yarn, wherein each pan head has 496 yarns for 6 pan heads, the yarn threading mode of a ground guide bar GB6 yarn on a machine is full threading, and the let-off amount of a gear is 7000 mm/park;
ground guide bar GB 7: the whole P-DTY150D/48F CD has a light white low-elasticity light net, each pan head has 496 yarns for 6 pan heads, the threading mode of the ground guide bar GB7 yarn on a machine is full threading, and the gear let-off amount is 2300 mm/park;
ground guide bar GB 8: the whole P-DTY150D/48F CD has a light white low-elasticity light net, each pan head has 496 yarns for 6 pan heads, the threading mode of the ground guide bar GB8 yarn on a machine is full threading, and the let-off amount of a gear is 1750 mm/wax;
d, weaving the non-velvet feeling area 2: jacquard bar JB3 runs at the front needle bed over plain weave 1-0/1-0/1-2/1-2//, and shifts to 1-0/1-1/2-3/2-2// performs a split structure knitting, jacquard bar JB4 runs at the front needle bed over plain weave 1-2/1-0/1-0/1-2// and shifts to 2-3/1-1/1-0/2-2// by a stitch shift, forming a plain weave with split holes, thereby forming the first face layer 20 of the non-pile sense region 2 of the jacquard fabric, said first group bar not participating in the knitting of the bottom layer; ground guide bars GB5 and GB6 knit stitch 1-0/1-0/0-1/0-1// and knit stitch 0-1/0-1/1-0/1-0//, at the front and rear needle beds, forming a first intermediate layer 21 of non-pile area 2 of said jacquard fabric; a ground guide bar GB7 runs through a knitting stitch 1-1/2-3/2-2/1-0//, and a ground guide bar GB8 runs through a knitting stitch 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1//, at a back needle bed to form a first bottom layer 22 of a non-pile feeling area 2 of the jacquard fabric; the first intermediate layer 21 is used to connect the first face layer 20 and the first base layer 22.
E, knitting in a velvet feeling area 1: jacquard bar JB3 is offset at the rear needle bed by 1-1/1-0/2-2/1-2//, jacquard bar JB4 is offset at the rear needle bed by 2-2/1-0/1-1/1-2//, and is knitted with ground bar GB7 and ground bar GB8 at the rear needle bed, forming the second bottom layer 12 of the pile area of the jacquard fabric, and jacquard bar JB3 and jacquard bar JB4 do not participate in the knitting of the second face layer 11; the ground guide bar GB5 and the ground guide bar GB6 run knitting chain tissues on the front needle bed and the back needle bed, yarns are not hung on the upper portion of the ground guide bar GB5 and the back needle bed, a terry pile-shaped tissue is formed, the bottom of the terry pile-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer 12, and then the second surface layer 11 of the jacquard fabric velvet feeling zone is formed;
the ground guide bar GB5, the ground guide bar GB6, the ground guide bar GB7 and the ground guide bar GB8 are fixed tissues, and the weaving tissues in the velvet feeling area and the non-velvet feeling area are unchanged.
In this embodiment, the jacquard bar JB3 has a yarn content of 14.991%, the jacquard bar JB4 has a yarn content of 14.991%, the bar GB5 has a yarn content of 14.310%, the bar GB6 has a yarn content of 14.310%, the bar GB7 has a yarn content of 23.509%, and the bar GB7 has a yarn content of 17.888%.
In the invention, the type and the thickness of the configured yarn of the second group of guide bars can be adjusted according to the requirement to adjust the hand feeling of the fluff in the fluff feeling area, for example, thicker single-hole yarns are selected to increase the three-dimensional effect of the fluff; the functional lines such as metal lines or fluorescent lines are selected to increase the functionality or visual effect of the fluff in the fluff feeling area.
While there have been shown and described what are at present considered the fundamental principles and essential features of the invention and its advantages, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the invention is not limited to the details of the foregoing exemplary embodiments, but is capable of other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics thereof. The present embodiments are therefore to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, the scope of the invention being indicated by the appended claims rather than by the foregoing description, and all changes which come within the meaning and range of equivalency of the claims are therefore intended to be embraced therein. Any reference sign in a claim should not be construed as limiting the claim concerned.
Furthermore, it should be understood that although the present description refers to embodiments, not every embodiment may contain only a single embodiment, and such description is for clarity only, and those skilled in the art should integrate the description, and the embodiments may be combined as appropriate to form other embodiments understood by those skilled in the art.

Claims (17)

1. A jacquard fabric with a velvet feeling, which is characterized in that: the jacquard fabric comprises a velvet feeling area (1) and a non-velvet feeling area (2), the velvet feeling area (1) and the non-velvet feeling area (2) are integrally woven, and the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle-bed warp knitting jacquard machine with three groups of guide bars, wherein a first group of guide bars comprises at least two separated jacquard guide bars, a second group of guide bars comprises at least one guide bar, a third group of guide bars comprises at least one guide bar, and the first group of guide bars, the second group of guide bars and the third group of guide bars are sequentially arranged adjacently;
the non-velvet feeling area (2) comprises a first surface layer (20), a first middle layer (21) and a first bottom layer (22) which are sequentially stacked from top to bottom and integrally woven, the first surface layer (20) is formed by weaving a first group of guide bars on a front needle bed, and the first group of guide bars do not participate in the weaving of the first bottom layer (22); the first middle layer (21) is formed by simultaneously knitting front needle beds and back needle beds through a second group of guide bars, and the first middle layer (21) is used for connecting the first surface layer (20) and the first bottom layer (22); the first bottom layer (22) is formed by weaving a third group of guide bars on a back needle bed;
the velvet feeling area (1) comprises a second surface layer (11) and a second bottom layer (12) which are sequentially stacked from top to bottom and integrally woven, the second surface layer (11) is a terry velvet tissue which is formed by simultaneously weaving a second group of guide bars on a front needle bed and a rear needle bed and does not hang yarns on the front needle bed, the bottom of the terry velvet tissue is connected with the second bottom layer (12), and the second bottom layer (12) is formed by weaving a first group of guide bars and a third group of guide bars on the rear needle bed;
the knitting yarns of the first surface layer (20), the first middle layer (21), the first bottom layer (22), the second surface layer (11) and the second bottom layer (12) are any knitted materials.
2. The jacquard fabric with pile sense according to claim 1, wherein: the first surface layer (20) is a plain weave with a counter-drawn hole structure, and the plain weave is formed by shifting and offsetting via a warp flat weave; the first intermediate layer (21) is a chaining structure; the second surface layer (11) is a pile-shaped structure formed by a second group of guide bars in a chain knitting structure on the front needle bed and the back needle bed and no yarn hanging on the front needle bed.
3. The jacquard fabric with pile sense according to claim 2, wherein: the first facing (20) further includes a mesh structure (200).
4. The jacquard fabric with pile sense according to claim 2, wherein: the knitting yarn of the first surface layer (20) is chemical fiber core-spun yarn; the knitting yarn of the first middle layer (21) is at least one of chemical fiber high-elastic yarn and single-hole yarn; the weaving yarn of the first bottom layer (22) is at least one of chemical fiber filament and core-spun yarn.
5. The jacquard fabric with pile sense of claim 4, wherein: the knitting yarn of the first surface layer (20) is at least one of nylon spandex core-spun yarn and polyester spandex core-spun yarn of 50-600D; the knitting yarn of the first middle layer (21) is at least one of 30-200D of polyamide semi-gloss high-elastic yarn, polyester semi-gloss high-elastic yarn and polyester monofilament; the weaving yarn of the first bottom layer (22) is at least one of 50-600D nylon semi-gloss filament, polyester spandex core-spun yarn and nylon spandex core-spun yarn.
6. The jacquard fabric having a pile sense according to claim 5, wherein: the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising a split jacquard bar JB1 and a jacquard bar JB2, the second set of bars comprising a bar GB3, and the third set of bars comprising a bar GB4 and a bar GB 5;
the first surface layer (20) is a plain weave with a split hole structure formed by a jacquard guide bar JB1 and a jacquard guide bar JB2 running a warp flat weave at a front needle bed and by a weave change offset; the first intermediate layer (21) is a chaining structure formed by knitting with a guide bar GB3 on a front needle bed and a back needle bed; the first bottom layer (22) is a variable warp-forged texture and a warp-flat texture knitted by a guide bar GB4 and a guide bar GB5 at a back needle bed;
the second surface layer (11) is a pile loop pile-shaped tissue which is formed by knitting chain tissues on a front needle bed and a rear needle bed through a guide bar GB3 and does not hang yarns on the front needle bed, and the bottom of the pile loop pile-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer (12); the second bottom layer (12) is formed by knitting a warp-flat stitch through a jacquard guide bar JB1 and a jacquard guide bar JB2, and a warp-forged stitch and a warp-flat stitch through a guide bar GB4 and a guide bar GB 5.
7. The jacquard fabric with pile sense of claim 5, wherein: the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising a split jacquard bar JB1, a jacquard bar JB2, a jacquard bar JB3 and a jacquard bar JB4, the second set of bars comprising a bar GB5, and the third set of bars comprising a bar GB 6;
the first surface layer (20) is plain weave and jacquard weave which are provided with opposite pull holes and formed by warp flat weave running on a front needle bed and by weave change offset through a jacquard guide bar JB1, a jacquard guide bar JB2, a jacquard guide bar JB3 and a jacquard guide bar JB 4; the first intermediate layer (21) is a chaining structure formed by knitting with a guide bar GB5 on a front needle bed and a back needle bed; the first bottom layer (22) is a warp-recombined knit structure knitted by a guide bar GB6 on a back needle bed;
the second surface layer (11) is a pile loop pile-shaped tissue which is formed by knitting chain tissues on a front needle bed and a rear needle bed through a guide bar GB5 and does not hang yarns on the front needle bed, and the bottom of the pile loop pile-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer (12); the second bottom layer (12) is formed by knitting a back needle bed warp flat structure through a jacquard guide bar JB1, a jacquard guide bar JB2, a jacquard guide bar JB3 and a jacquard guide bar JB4 and a back needle bed warp heavy structure through a guide bar GB 6.
8. The jacquard fabric with pile sense of claim 5, wherein: the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising a split jacquard bar JB1 and a jacquard bar JB2, the second set of bars comprising a bar GB3 and a bar GB4, and the third set of bars comprising a bar GB5 and a bar GB 6;
the first surface layer (20) is a plain weave with opposite pulling holes formed by a jacquard guide bar JB1 and a jacquard guide bar JB2 running a warp flat weave at a front needle bed and by a weave change offset; the first middle layer (21) is formed by knitting through a guide bar GB3 and a guide bar GB4 in a front needle bed and a back needle bed by a chain knitting tissue; the first bottom layer (22) is formed by knitting a warp-forged tissue and a warp-flat tissue through a guide bar GB5 and a guide bar GB6 in a back needle bed;
the second surface layer (11) is a pile loop pile-shaped tissue which is formed by a guide bar GB3 in a chain stitch structure on a front needle bed and a back needle bed and is not hung on the front needle bed, and the bottom of the pile loop pile-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer (12); the second bottom layer (12) is woven by a jacquard guide bar JB1 and a jacquard guide bar JB2 warp-flat weave and a guide bar GB5 and a guide bar GB6 warp-pile weave and a chaining weave.
9. A jacquard fabric having a pile feel according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein: the jacquard fabric is used for vamps and clothes.
10. A method for knitting a jacquard fabric having a pile feeling according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein: the jacquard fabric with the velvet feeling is integrally woven, and the jacquard fabric with the velvet feeling comprises the following steps:
preparation of knitting: designing a pattern of the fabric on a computer, and processing a computer-operating file by using self-operating computer-operating software;
b, guide bar configuration: a double needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having at least three sets of guide bars, comprising a first set of guide bars, a second set of guide bars and a third set of guide bars arranged adjacently in sequence, wherein the first set of guide bars comprises at least two separate jacquard guide bars, the second set of guide bars comprises at least one guide bar, and the third set of guide bars comprises at least one guide bar;
c, threading: each guide bar is provided with six pan heads, the first group of guide bars are threaded in a one-empty-one-threading mode, and the second group of guide bars and the third group of guide bars are threaded in a full-threading mode;
d, knitting the non-velvet feeling area (2): the first set of guide bars is knitted at the front needle bed, thereby forming a first face layer (20) of a non-pile area (2) of the jacquard fabric, and the first set of guide bars does not participate in the knitting of the bottom layer; the second set of bars is knitted simultaneously at the front and back needle beds forming a first intermediate layer (21) of a non-pile-feeling zone (2) of the jacquard fabric; the third set of guide bars weaving a first bottom layer (22) of a non-pile-feeling zone (2) of the jacquard fabric at the back needle bed; the first intermediate layer (21) is used for connecting the first surface layer (20) and the first bottom layer (22);
e, knitting the velvet feeling area (1): the first group of guide bars runs a warp flat structure on a back needle bed, and simultaneously weaves the bottom layer with the third group of guide bars to form a second bottom layer (12) of a pile feeling zone of the jacquard fabric, and the first group of guide bars do not participate in the weaving of the second surface layer (11); the second group of guide bars are knitted on the front needle bed and the back needle bed at the same time, the upper part of the second group of guide bars is not hung on the front needle bed, a terry pile-shaped tissue is formed, the bottom of the terry pile-shaped tissue is connected with the second bottom layer (12), and a second surface layer (11) of the jacquard fabric velvet feeling area is further formed.
11. The weaving method according to claim 10, characterized in that: when the D non-velvet sensing area (2) is woven, warp flat weave is walked by the first group of guide bars, and split structure weaving is carried out through weave conversion offset, so that plain weave with split holes is formed, and when the D non-velvet sensing area (2) is woven and the E velvet sensing area (1) is woven, the second group of guide bars walk chain weave.
12. The knitting method of claim 11, wherein: the first facing (20) of the non-pile feeling zone (2) further comprises a mesh structure (200).
13. Weaving method according to claim 11, characterized in that: the knitting yarn of the first surface layer (20) is chemical fiber core-spun yarn; the knitting yarn of the first middle layer (21) is at least one of chemical fiber high-elastic yarn and single-hole yarn; the weaving yarn of the first bottom layer (22) is at least one of chemical fiber filament and core-spun yarn.
14. The knitting method of claim 13, wherein: the weaving yarn of the first surface layer (20) is at least one of 50-600D nylon spandex core-spun yarn and polyester spandex core-spun yarn; the knitting yarn of the first middle layer (21) is at least one of 30-200D of polyamide semi-gloss high-elasticity yarn, polyester semi-gloss high-elasticity yarn and polyester monofilament yarn; the weaving yarn of the first bottom layer (22) is at least one of 50-600D of nylon semi-gloss filament, polyester covered spandex core yarn and nylon spandex core-spun yarn.
15. The weaving method according to claim 14, characterized in that: the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bed warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of guide bars, the first set of guide bars comprising split jacquard guide bar JB1 and jacquard guide bar JB2, the second set of guide bars comprising guide bar GB3, and the third set of guide bars comprising guide bar GB4 and guide bar GB 5;
the jacquard guide bars JB1 and JB2 run through a flat weave at the front needle bed and form a plain weave with counter-pulling holes by means of a weave variation offset, thereby forming the first face layer (20); the bar GB3 forms the first intermediate layer (21) by knitting a chain stitch at the front and rear needle beds; the guide bar GB4 and the guide bar GB5 form the first bottom layer (22) by a back needle bed step change warp-knit stitch and a warp-flat stitch;
the guide bar GB3 is used for knitting chain stitch on a front needle bed and a back needle bed, and the front needle bed does not hang yarns to form a terry velvet-shaped stitch, and the bottom of the terry velvet-shaped stitch is connected with the second bottom layer (12) to further form the second surface layer (11); the jacquard bar JB1 and the jacquard bar JB2 run the back needle bed at the warp flat stitch while the bars GB4 and GB5 run the back needle bed at the warp forged stitch and the warp flat stitch to form the second bottom layer (12).
16. Weaving method according to claim 14, characterized in that: the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising a split jacquard bar JB1, a jacquard bar JB2, a jacquard bar JB3 and a jacquard bar JB4, the second set of bars comprising a bar GB5, and the third set of bars comprising a bar GB 6;
the jacquard guide bar JB1, the jacquard guide bar JB2, the jacquard guide bar JB3 and the jacquard guide bar JB4 form plain weave and jacquard weave with opposite pull holes by running warp flat weave on a front needle bed and performing weave change offset to form the first face layer (20); the bar GB5 forms the first intermediate layer (21) with a front needle bed and a rear needle bed knitted chain stitch; the guide bar GB6 running through the reorganization at the back needle bed to form the first bottom layer (22);
the guide bar GB5 is used for knitting chain stitch on a front needle bed and a back needle bed, and the front needle bed does not hang yarns to form a terry velvet-shaped stitch, and the bottom of the terry velvet-shaped stitch is connected with the second bottom layer (12) to further form the second surface layer (11); the jacquard bar JB1, jacquard bar JB2, jacquard bar JB3 and jacquard bar JB4 weave the back needle bed flat stitch while bar GB6 weaves the back needle bed heavy stitch to form the second bottom layer (12).
17. Weaving method according to claim 14, characterized in that: the jacquard fabric is woven by a two-needle bar warp knitting jacquard machine having three sets of bars, the first set of bars comprising a split jacquard bar JB1 and a jacquard bar JB2, the second set of bars comprising a bar GB3 and a bar GB4, and the third set of bars comprising a bar GB5 and a bar GB 6;
the jacquard guide bars JB1 and JB2 form the first surface layer (20) by carrying out flat weave on the front needle bed and forming a plain weave structure with opposite pulling holes through weave change offset; the guide bar GB3, guide bar GB4 forms the first intermediate layer (21) with a chain stitch on the front and back needle beds; the guide bar GB5 and the guide bar GB6 form the first bottom layer (22) by changing a warp-knit structure and a warp-flat structure at a back needle bed;
the guide bar GB3 is used for knitting chain stitch on a front needle bed and a back needle bed, and the front needle bed does not hang yarns to form a terry velvet-shaped stitch, and the bottom of the terry velvet-shaped stitch is connected with the second bottom layer (12) to further form the second surface layer (11); the jacquard bar JB1 and jacquard bar JB2 run a flat stitch and the bar GB5 and bar GB6 run a varying warp knit and a knit stitch to form the second bottom layer (12).
CN202110092017.4A 2021-01-23 2021-01-23 Jacquard fabric with velvet feeling and weaving method and application thereof Active CN112921488B (en)

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DE3909013A1 (en) * 1989-03-18 1990-09-20 Mayer Textilmaschf METHOD FOR PRODUCING A FLORAL-FITTED CHAIN-KNITTED GOODS AND RELATED CHAIN-KNITTING MACHINE
JP2001181947A (en) * 1999-12-27 2001-07-03 Yoshida Sangyo Kk Patterned triplet-like warp knitted fabric
EP1509647A1 (en) * 2002-05-31 2005-03-02 Sitip S.P.A. Plypropylene fabric and its use in the personal care field
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CN110093712B (en) * 2019-06-11 2021-02-26 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 Weaving method for ground comb matching jacquard of double-needle-bed single-jacquard warp knitting machine
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