CN112315090B - Method for manufacturing neckline zipper - Google Patents
Method for manufacturing neckline zipper Download PDFInfo
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- CN112315090B CN112315090B CN202011236134.5A CN202011236134A CN112315090B CN 112315090 B CN112315090 B CN 112315090B CN 202011236134 A CN202011236134 A CN 202011236134A CN 112315090 B CN112315090 B CN 112315090B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
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Abstract
A method for manufacturing a neckline zipper, belonging to the technical field of garment processing. The method comprises the following steps: determining the position and the shape of a zipper opening at the position of a zipper arranged at the front collar of the fabric, wherein the zipper opening comprises a lower end line, a fabric suture line and a collar opening trimming line; drawing an upper stop line and a lower stop line on the reverse side of the zipper; placing the front side of the fabric with the back side of the zipper upwards, aligning and sewing the lower stop line and the lower end line; cutting along the neckline, and cutting a Y-shaped cut at the lower end line to form a zipper opening; turning the zipper over, and turning the zipper inwards to the reverse side of the fabric from the zipper opening; sequentially enabling two ends of each fabric stitch of the fabric to respectively correspond to the same side end parts of the upper stop line and the lower stop line of the zipper and leveling, and enabling the presser foot to be tightly sewn close to the edge of the sawtooth of the zipper from the back side of the fabric; and (5) an open line is edited along the zipper opening edge on the front surface of the fabric, and the manufacturing is finished. The advantages are that: the iron and the adhesive lining are not used, energy and materials are saved, hair is not easy to expose, the sewing thread is straight and consistent in width and width, the sewing speed is high, and the appearance is neat and attractive.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of garment processing, and particularly relates to a method for manufacturing a neckline zipper.
Background
In order to adapt to the human body and facilitate putting on and taking off, a method of mounting a zipper on the upper fly is often adopted. The zipper has the function of convenient closing and the decoration is an important constituent element of the clothes, and the structure and the process quality of the zipper at the neckline part are important marks for measuring the quality of the clothes, so the sewing process has high technical requirements, needs fine operation and often needs much time and energy of workers. The manufacturing method of the conventional zipper comprises the following steps: 1. lining is adhered at the position where the zipper is arranged on the reverse side of the fabric; 2. drawing the position of a zipper at the back neckline of the fabric; 3. punching a shearing opening; 4. buckling and ironing; 5. a zipper is arranged and the open line is seen. The sewing method has the following defects in the actual operation process: firstly, the zipper is arranged at the position of shearing and then buckling and ironing, so that the phenomenon of hair dew is easy to occur. Secondly, the quality of the button ironing determines the quality of the zipper, and the phenomenon that the button cannot be ironed or the fabric is burnt is often caused because the temperature of the iron is not suitable, or the opening is not correct due to technical problems. Thirdly, the appearance effect is influenced due to the fact that the zipper is placed incorrectly or not in the middle, the whole process is complicated, and the efficiency is low; fourthly, materials and energy are wasted by using the iron and the adhesive lining.
In view of the above-mentioned prior art, there is a need for a reasonable improvement of the method of making the zipper of the prior art. The applicant has therefore made an advantageous design, in the context of which the solution to be described below is made.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for manufacturing a neckline zipper, which does not use an iron and an adhesive interlining, saves energy and materials, avoids the phenomenon that a button is not firmly pressed or a fabric is burnt, is not easy to be exposed, has a straight suture line, consistent width and width, high sewing speed and neat and attractive appearance after the neckline zipper is sewn.
The invention is a method for making a collarband-mounted zipper, namely a method for making the zipper on the collarband of clothes, which comprises the zipper and fabric at the collarband, wherein the zipper on the fabric at the collarband comprises sawteeth, cloth belts positioned at two sides of the width direction of the sawteeth, and an upper stop and a lower stop respectively positioned at two ends of the sawteeth in the length direction, the upper stop is sewed close to the upper part of the collarband, the position and the shape of a zipper opening are determined on the front side of the fabric before the collarband of the zipper is sewed, collarband cut lines are drawn, and the upper stop lines and the lower stop lines which are parallel and equal in length are drawn on the back side of the zipper; sewing the zipper to the fabric at the neckline according to the shape of the opening of the zipper, wherein the shape of the opening of the zipper is U-shaped, the opening at the upper end of the opening of the zipper is positioned at the neckline, the width of the opening is the width of a presser foot of a sewing machine respectively extending from two sides of the width of the saw teeth of the zipper, and the opening of the zipper comprises a lower end line of the neckline and two fabric stitches in the width direction; the method is characterized in that: the manufacturing method of the neckline zipper comprises the following steps:
s1) determining the position and shape of a zipper opening at the position of the zipper at the front collar of the fabric, wherein the position and shape comprise a lower end line, fabric stitches and a collar opening trimming line;
s2) drawing an upper stop line which is correspondingly aligned with the two ends of the upper end of the zipper opening and a lower stop line which is correspondingly equal in length with the lower end line and is sewn in alignment on the reverse side of the zipper;
s3) placing the back side of the zipper on the front side of the fabric upwards, wherein the upper stop line and the neckline of the zipper are respectively positioned at two sides, the lower stop line of the zipper is aligned with the lower end line of the fabric and sewn, and two ends of the sewing line are back-stitched;
s4) cutting along the collar opening trimming line in the step S1), and opening a Y-shaped trimming at the lower end line to form a zipper opening;
s5) turning the zipper 180 degrees along the sewing line sewed in the step S3), and then turning the zipper inwards to the reverse side of the fabric from the zipper opening;
s6) turning over the fabric on one side cut from the zipper opening of the fabric to the reverse side of the fabric to make the front side of the fabric attached to the front side of the corresponding cloth belt of the zipper, respectively corresponding the two ends of one fabric sewing line of the fabric to the same side end part of the upper stop line and the lower stop line of the zipper and leveling the two ends, and sewing the presser foot close to the edge of the sawtooth of the zipper from the reverse side of the fabric;
s7) in the same way as the step S6), the other side of the cloth cut at the opening of the zipper of the cloth is turned over to the back of the cloth to make the front face of the cloth attached to the front face of the corresponding cloth belt of the zipper, the two ends of the other side of the sewing thread of the cloth are respectively corresponding to the other side ends of the upper stop thread and the lower stop thread of the zipper and are leveled, and the presser foot is sewn close to the edge of the sawtooth of the zipper from the back of the cloth;
s8) open lines are edited along the zipper opening edge on the front surface of the fabric, and the manufacturing is finished.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the cutting line extends perpendicularly from the midpoint of the lower end line to the neckline.
In another specific embodiment of the invention, the zipper is a single-closure zipper.
In still another embodiment of the present invention, in the step S4), a Y-shape is cut to both corners of the zipper opening when the zipper is cut to a distance of 1cm from the lower end line, so as to facilitate the turning in the step S5) and the aligned stitching in the steps S6) and S7).
In still another embodiment of the present invention, between the step S5) and the step S6), the triangular fabric with the Y-shaped cut at the lower end line of the fabric is folded toward the reverse side of the fabric, and is sewn with the zipper along the lower end line of the fabric.
In still another embodiment of the present invention, in the step S8), the distance from the edited open line to each side of the zipper opening is 0.1-0.15 cm.
In yet another specific embodiment of the present invention, the presser foot is a 0.3cm or 0.2cm presser foot or a single edge presser foot.
In a more specific embodiment of the present invention, the lower end line and the lower stopper line are above or below the lower stopper in the steps S1) and S2).
Due to the adoption of the structure, the invention has the beneficial effects that: firstly, the method does not use an iron and an adhesive lining, saves energy and materials, and avoids the phenomenon of unfirm buckling or scorched fabric caused by improper iron temperature; secondly, when two long sides of the zipper are sewed, the presser foot is close to the zipper sawteeth to play a role in setting, so that the sewing thread is straight, consistent in width and high in sewing speed; thirdly, the sewing is cut again, so that the hair is not easy to be exposed; fourthly, the appearance is neat and beautiful after the neckline zipper is sewn; fifth, the operation method is simple and easy to popularize.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a drawing of a finished product after the neckline slide fastener of the present invention is manufactured.
Fig. 2 is a schematic front view of the fabric of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the reverse side of the zipper of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing that the lower stop thread of the slide fastener 1 is aligned with the lower end thread of the fabric and sewn in step S3) of the neckline slide fastener producing method of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is a schematic view of cutting the neckline zipper in step S4) of the neckline zipper manufacturing method of the present invention.
FIG. 6 is a schematic view showing that the zipper is turned inwards from the zipper opening to the reverse side of the fabric in step S5) of the neckline zipper manufacturing method of the present invention.
Fig. 7 is a schematic view showing that a presser foot is closely attached to an edge of a saw tooth of the zipper to sew the zipper tape and the fabric in step S6) of the neckline dress zipper manufacturing method of the present invention.
In the figure: 1. a zipper, 11, sawteeth, 12, cloth belts, 13, an upper stop, 14, a lower stop, 101, an upper stop line and 102, a lower stop line; 2. fabric, 21 lower end lines, 22 fabric stitches and 23 collar opening trimming lines; 3. and (5) open line.
Detailed Description
The following detailed description of the embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, but the description of the embodiments by the applicant is not intended to limit the technical solutions, and any changes made in the form of the present invention rather than the essential changes should be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.
In the following description, all the concepts related to the directions or orientations of up, down, left, right, front and rear are based on the positions shown in the corresponding drawings, and thus, should not be construed as particularly limiting the technical solution provided by the present invention.
Referring to fig. 1, the present invention relates to a method for making a neckline zipper, i.e., a method for sewing a zipper 1 to a neckline of clothes, so that a zipper opening is cut at a fabric 2 of the neckline. The zipper opening is formed by cutting and turning the inner fabric surrounded by the sewing lines of the fabric 2 and the zipper 1 to the reverse side of the fabric 2, and the zipper opening is internally provided with sawteeth and a cloth belt at the periphery. As is well known, the slide fastener 1 generally includes a saw tooth 11, tapes 12 on both sides of the saw tooth 11 in a width direction, and upper and lower stoppers 13 and 14 respectively at both ends of the saw tooth 11 in a length direction, as shown in fig. 3. The zipper 1 is a single-closed zipper. The fabric 2 for sewing the zipper 1 is divided into a front side and a back side.
As shown in fig. 1 to 3, before sewing, the position and shape of the zipper opening of the neckline of the zipper are determined on the front surface of the fabric 2, the cutting line of the neckline zipper is drawn, and the zipper 1 is sewn on the fabric 2 at the neckline according to the shape of the zipper opening. The shape of the opening of the zipper is U-shaped, the upper end opening of the U-shaped opening of the zipper is positioned at the collar, the upper length and the lower length, namely the length of the zipper, are determined by design, and the width is the width of a presser foot of the sewing machine respectively extending from two sides of the width of the sawtooth 11 of the zipper. A 0.3cm or 0.2cm presser foot or single side presser foot may be used, in general, the width of the zipper opening changes as the presser foot changes. The present embodiment uses 300 stitches, one sewing machine presser foot having a width of 0.3 cm. The u-shaped opening of the fabric 2 thus comprises a lower end line 21 below the collar and two fabric stitches 22 in the width direction. The cutting line 23 extends vertically from the midpoint of the lower end line 21 to the neckline. Before sewing the collar zipper, an upper stop line 101 and a lower stop line 102 which are equal in length and parallel need to be drawn on the reverse side of the zipper, the upper stop line 101 is aligned with the upper end of the U-shaped zipper opening, and the lower stop line 102 is aligned with the lower end line 21 of the U-shaped zipper opening. The length of the upper stop line 101 and the lower stop line 102 is equal to the width of the U-shaped zipper opening, namely, the two sides of the width of the zipper saw teeth 11 are respectively extended by the width of a sewing machine presser foot. After the zipper 1 is sewn, the lower end of the zipper 1 and the parts of the cloth belts 16 at the two sides outside the zipper opening are positioned on the reverse side of the fabric 2. Specifically, the manufacturing method of the neckline zipper comprises the following steps:
s1) determining the position and the shape of a zipper opening at the zipper mounting position of the front neckline of the fabric 2, including the lower end line 21, the fabric stitching line 22 and the neckline opening trimming line 23, as shown in figure 2;
s2) drawing an upper stop line 101 corresponding to the upper end of the zipper opening and a lower stop line 102 sewed corresponding to the lower end line 21 on the reverse side of the zipper 1, as shown in fig. 3;
s3) placing the back side of the zipper 1 upwards on the front side of the fabric 2, respectively placing the upper stop line 101 and the neckline of the zipper 1 at two sides, aligning and sewing the lower stop line 102 of the zipper 1 with the lower end line 21 on the fabric 2, and back-stitching two ends of the sewing line as shown in figure 4;
s4) cutting along the collar opening cutting line 23 in the step S1), and cutting a Y-shaped cutting opening at the lower end line 21 to form a zipper opening, as shown in FIG. 5;
s5) turning the slide fastener 1 by 180 degrees along the sewing line sewn in the step S3), and then turning the slide fastener 1 from the slide fastener opening to the reverse side of the fabric 2, as shown in fig. 6;
s6) folding one side of the cloth material cut at the zipper opening of the fabric 2 to the reverse side of the fabric 2 to make the front side of the fabric 2 attached to the front side of the corresponding cloth belt 12 of the zipper 1, respectively corresponding the two ends of one fabric sewing thread 22 of the fabric 2 to the same side end of the zipper upper stop thread 101 and the lower stop thread 102 and leveling, sewing the presser foot close to the edge of the zipper sawtooth 11 from the reverse side of the fabric 2, as shown in fig. 7;
s7) in the same way as the step S6), the other side of the cloth cut at the zipper opening of the fabric 2 is turned over to the reverse side of the fabric 2 to make the front side attached to the front side of the corresponding cloth belt 12 of the zipper 1, the two ends of the other fabric thread 22 of the fabric 2 are respectively corresponding to the other side ends of the upper stop thread 101 and the lower stop thread 102 of the zipper and are leveled, and the presser foot is sewn close to the edge of the sawtooth 11 of the zipper from the reverse side of the fabric 2;
s8) along the zipper opening edge on the front side of the fabric 2, the production is completed, as shown in fig. 1.
The step S1) and the step S2), the lower end line 21 and the lower stop line 102 with the same length can be above the lower stop 14 or below the lower stop 14, for example, when the zipper 1 is a nylon zipper, the lower end line 21 and the lower stop line 102 can be both above the lower stop 14 or below the lower stop 14; when the slide fastener 1 is a metal slide fastener, the lower end line 21 and the lower stopper line 102 are preferably below the lower stopper 14. The invention adopts a nylon single-close zipper, and the lower end line 21 and the lower stop line 102 can be arranged above the lower stop 14.
In the step S4), when the zipper is cut to a distance of 1cm from the lower end line 21, a Y-shape is cut at two corners of the zipper opening, so as to facilitate the turning in the step S5) and the aligned stitching in the steps S6) and S7).
Between step S5) and step S6), the triangular fabric with the Y-shaped cut at the lower end line 21 of the fabric 2 is folded toward the reverse side of the fabric 2, and sewn with the slide fastener 1 along the lower end line 21 of the fabric 2, thereby further reinforcing the pocket opening.
In the step S8), the distance between the edited open line and each side of the zipper opening is 0.1-0.15 cm.
Claims (8)
1. A method for manufacturing a neckline-mounted zipper, namely a method for sewing a zipper (1) to a neckline of clothes, comprises the zipper (1) and fabric (2) at the neckline, wherein the zipper (1) mounted on the fabric (2) at the neckline comprises sawteeth (11), cloth belts (12) positioned at two sides of the sawteeth (11) in the width direction, upper stops (13) and lower stops (14) respectively positioned at two ends of the sawteeth (11) in the length direction, the upper stops (13) are sewn close to the upper part of the neckline, the position and the shape of a zipper opening of the neckline-mounted zipper (1) need to be determined on the front side of the fabric (2) before sewing, a neckline cutting line is drawn, and an upper stop line (101) and a lower stop line (102) which are parallel and have the same length are drawn on the back side of the zipper; sewing a zipper (1) to the fabric (2) at the collar according to the shape of the opening of the zipper, wherein the shape of the opening of the zipper is U-shaped, the upper end opening of the U-shaped zipper is positioned at the collar, the width of the U-shaped opening is the width of a sewing machine presser foot respectively extending from two sides of the width of a zipper sawtooth (11), and the opening of the U-shaped zipper comprises a lower end line (21) positioned at the collar and two fabric sewing lines (22) in the width direction; the method is characterized in that: the manufacturing method of the neckline zipper comprises the following steps:
s1) determining the position and shape of a zipper opening at the zipper mounting position of the front neckline of the fabric (2), wherein the zipper opening comprises a lower end line (21), a fabric stitching line (22) and a neckline opening trimming line (23);
s2) drawing an upper stop line (101) which is correspondingly aligned with the two ends of the upper end of the zipper opening and a lower stop line (102) which is correspondingly equal in length with the lower end line (21) and is sewn in alignment on the reverse side of the zipper (1);
s3), placing the back side of the zipper (1) upwards on the front side of the fabric (2), respectively positioning the upper stop line (101) and the neckline of the zipper (1) at two sides, aligning and sewing the lower stop line (102) of the zipper (1) with the lower end line (21) on the fabric (2), and sewing two ends of the sewing line with back stitches;
s4) cutting along the collar opening cutting line (23) in the step S1), and cutting a Y-shaped cutting opening at the lower end line (21) to form a zipper opening;
s5) turning the zipper (1) for 180 degrees along the sewing line sewn in the step S3), and then turning the zipper (1) inwards to the back side of the fabric (2) from the zipper opening;
s6), turning one side of cloth cut at the zipper opening of the fabric (2) to the reverse side of the fabric (2) to enable the front side of the cloth to be attached to the front side of a corresponding cloth belt (12) of the zipper (1), respectively corresponding two ends of one fabric sewing line (22) of the fabric (2) to the same side end part of an upper stop line (101) and a lower stop line (102) of the zipper and pulling the two ends to be flat, and sewing a presser foot close to the edge of a zipper sawtooth (11) from the reverse side of the fabric (2);
s7), turning the other side of the cloth sheared from the zipper opening of the fabric (2) to the reverse side of the fabric (2) to enable the front side to be attached to the front side of the corresponding cloth belt (12) of the zipper (1) by the same method as the step S6), respectively corresponding the two ends of the other side of the other fabric sewing line (22) of the fabric (2) to the other side end of the zipper upper stop line (101) and the lower stop line (102) and drawing the two ends to be flat, and sewing the presser foot to be close to the edge of the zipper saw teeth (11) from the reverse side of the fabric (2);
s8) an open line (3) is edited along the zipper opening edge of the front surface of the fabric (2) to finish the production.
2. The method for manufacturing a neckline zippers according to claim 1, wherein the cutting lines (23) are vertically extended from the middle point of the lower end line (21) to the neckline.
3. Method for making a neckline zip according to claim 1, wherein the zip (1) is a single-closure zip.
4. The method for manufacturing a neckline equipped zipper according to claim 1, wherein in the step S4), the zipper is cut to have a Y-shape at both corners thereof when cut to a distance of 1cm from the lower end line (21) for facilitating the turning in the step S5) and the aligned sewing in the steps S6) and S7).
5. The method of manufacturing a neckline zipper according to claim 1, wherein between the steps S5) and S6), a triangular piece of fabric having a Y-shaped cut at the lower end line (21) of the piece of fabric (2) is folded toward the reverse side of the piece of fabric (2) and sewn to the zipper (1) along the lower end line (21) of the piece of fabric (2).
6. The method for manufacturing a neckline zipper according to claim 1, wherein in the step S8), the distance between the cut open line and each side of the zipper opening is 0.1 to 0.15 cm.
7. The method for manufacturing the neckline dress zipper according to claim 1, wherein the presser foot is a 0.3cm or 0.2cm presser foot or a single-side presser foot.
8. The method for manufacturing a neckline slide fastener according to claim 1, wherein the lower end line (21) and the lower stopper line (102) are above the lower stopper (14) or below the lower stopper (14) in the steps S1) and S2).
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KR101211377B1 (en) * | 2011-04-25 | 2012-12-13 | (주)프리앤메지스 | Zipper attaching method for garment and Garment thereby |
CN106868728B (en) * | 2017-01-18 | 2020-01-17 | 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 | Sewing method of invisible zipper of double-layer garment |
CN107744184A (en) * | 2017-10-27 | 2018-03-02 | 俞益波 | A kind of method of Western-style trousers installation UNDER FLY slide fastener |
CN108851294B (en) * | 2018-08-02 | 2020-12-25 | 江西服装学院 | Method for manufacturing top fly |
CN110983656B (en) * | 2019-12-27 | 2021-09-28 | 厦门安踏体育用品有限公司 | Pocket zipper sewing process and pocket zipper sewing equipment |
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