CN112168766A - 一种抗炎舒缓芦荟胶及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种抗炎舒缓芦荟胶及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN112168766A CN112168766A CN202011178063.8A CN202011178063A CN112168766A CN 112168766 A CN112168766 A CN 112168766A CN 202011178063 A CN202011178063 A CN 202011178063A CN 112168766 A CN112168766 A CN 112168766A
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种抗炎舒缓芦荟胶及其制备方法,按重量百分比计,包括以下组分:库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉0.01%~3%;光甘草定脂质体0.05%~5%;积雪草提取物0.001%~0.3%;皮肤调理剂0.08%~8%;保湿剂1%~15%;胶体银0.1%~1.2%;螯合剂0.05%~0.2%;增稠剂0.1%~3.5%;pH调节剂0.1%~3%;去离子水补充至100%。本发明通过添加库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉、光甘草定脂质体和积雪草提取物,并辅以尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、烟酰胺或β‑葡聚糖等皮肤调理剂,通过各组分的协同配合,制备得到的芦荟胶具有很好的护肤功效,保湿抗炎效果明显,安全性高。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于日用化妆品领域,具体涉及一种抗炎舒缓芦荟胶及其制备方法。
背景技术
生活在城市中的人们由于工作压力大、生活节奏快、作息时间不规律等导致出现各种皮肤问题,对护肤产品有很大的需求。芦荟胶中含有多种芦荟多糖和维生素等活性成分,对皮肤具有很好的保湿补水、消炎杀菌等功效,对晒后皮肤、痘痘、皮肤瘙痒、红肿等有明显的修护作用。新鲜的芦荟胶中由于含有大量的芦荟苷,对皮肤具有一定的致敏作用,不能直接使用,一般是将芦荟叶进行提纯萃取后再应用于各种化妆品和护肤产品中,目前市面上的成品芦荟胶主要是通过添加芦荟提取物而制得的具有芦荟护肤功效的产品。
现有的芦荟胶护肤产品非常之多,品质参差不齐;由于考虑到各种成分之间的相容性、稳定性等问题,很多产品尽管加入了芦荟提取物,但实际使用并没有好的护肤功效;而且为达到抑菌效果,往往会加入苯氧乙醇、尼泊金酯等传统防腐剂,该类芦荟胶产品不但护肤功效差,反而会对肌肤造成一定的损伤。因此,一款护肤功效好且安全性高的芦荟胶护肤产品更能够满足消费者的护肤需求。
发明内容
为了克服上述现有技术存在的不足,本发明的首要目的在于提供一种抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,抗炎效果好且能持久保湿,安全性高。
本发明的另一目的在于提供上述抗炎舒缓芦荟胶的制备方法。
本发明是通过以下技术方案实现的:
一种抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,按重量百分比计,包括以下组分:
优选的,所述的抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,按重量百分比计,包括以下组分:
其中,所述的皮肤调理剂选自尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、烟酰胺或β-葡聚糖中的至少一种。
本发明经研究发现,将库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉、光甘草定脂质体和积雪草提取物配合使用,再辅以其他的活性成分(皮肤调理剂),制成的芦荟胶保湿抗炎效果明显。
本发明所述的库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉是由天然新鲜库拉索芦荟汁通过低温真空按200倍进一步浓缩和冻干,使用膜分离技术和智能化干燥控制系统解决了干燥过程中芦荟凝胶的褐变及生物活性成分流失问题。
光甘草定脂质体为利用脂质体包裹技术将光甘草定进行包裹,提高光甘草定在皮肤中的渗透能力,同时减少光甘草定与细胞的直接接触,大幅度降低了光甘草定的细胞毒性,从而提高光甘草定的使用安全性。
积雪草提取物含有的萜类化合物可显著提高胶原蛋白和细胞层纤连蛋白(纤连蛋白广泛参与细胞迁移、黏附、增殖、止血及皮肤组织修复等过程)的含量,而且能够刺激促成瘢痕成熟的I型胶原的生产,减少炎症反应的产生;积雪草提取物还能够显著增加角质层的水合程度,这主要与积雪草提取物中的三萜皂苷化合物有关,积雪草三萜皂苷是一种亲水性糖链,主要是葡萄糖和鼠李糖,能够在闭塞层内与水结合,提高表皮屏障能力,增加皮肤水分。
所述的保湿剂选自丁二醇、D-泛醇和透明质酸钠中的任意一种或几种。
本发明选用胶体银作为防腐剂,胶体银是通过渗透压击穿细胞壁抑制微生物生长,从而达到防腐的功效;代替传统防腐剂的使用,防止传统防腐剂对皮肤的刺激和损伤。
优选的,本发明所述的抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,按重量百分比计,还包括0.1%~10%的植物提取液;所述的植物提取液选自马齿苋提取物或茉莉花细胞水中的至少一种。
本发明所述的马齿苋提取物来源于海南五指山野生马齿苋,采用低温方法从马齿苋的茎和叶中萃取获得具有生物活性的提取物。马齿苋提取物中含有的氨基酸,可以收缩血管平滑肌,收缩作用兼有的中枢及末梢性,可以舒缓皮肤和抑制干燥引起的皮肤搔痒;马齿苋提取物中还含有生物碱和黄酮可以抗菌及抑制常见致病性皮肤真菌。而且在200ppm的浓度下没有皮肤刺激性,不会起炎症反应。通过添加适量的马齿苋提取物,与其他活性组分协效配合,使芦荟胶具有更好的抗炎舒缓效果。
本发明所述的茉莉花细胞水为新鲜茉莉花经过低温-真空提取后,再进行油水分离、过滤得到,较大限度的保留了茉莉花中的活性成分和芳香物质等,与皮肤亲和性好,易吸收;其主要成分为芳樟醇、罗勒烯、杜松烯,具有一定的抑菌作用,且有保湿、舒缓抗炎的护肤功效。本发明可添加适量的茉莉花提取物,不但使芦荟胶的抗炎舒缓效果更好,而且其与胶体银合用可提高防腐性能,该防腐体系的芦荟胶更加安全无刺激。另外,本发明采用的茉莉花细胞水具有天然的茉莉清香,可以带来怡人的香味,不需再添加具有刺激性的香精,提高了产品的安全性。
合适的螯合剂可以为EDTA-2Na;合适的增稠剂可以为卡波姆;合适的pH调节剂可以为氢氧化钠。
本发明还提供了上述抗炎舒缓芦荟胶的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)将所需设备进行清洗、消毒;
(2)按照配比称取各组分,把增稠剂加入去离子水中,均质至无团块,加热到70℃~80℃;其中,均质的转速为230r/min~350r/min;
(3)加入库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉、保湿剂、螯合剂,搅拌分散均匀,恒温70℃~80℃,20min后检查无颗粒降温;其中,搅拌转速为200r/min~700r/min;
(4)降温至45℃时,依次加入光甘草定脂质体、积雪草提取物、皮肤调理剂和pH调节剂,搅拌均匀至呈啫喱状,加入剩余组分,再次搅拌均匀,制得抗炎舒缓芦荟胶;其中,搅拌转速为200r/min~700r/min。
与现有技术相比,本发明具有如下有益效果:
本发明通过添加库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉、光甘草定脂质体和积雪草提取物,并辅以尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、烟酰胺或β-葡聚糖等皮肤调理剂,通过各组分的协同配合,制备得到的芦荟胶具有很好的护肤功效,抗炎效果好,且能持久保湿,安全性高。本发明采用胶体银来代替传统防腐剂的使用,并可加入有一定抑菌作用的植物提取液,与胶体银合用提高防腐性能且具有天然香味,使芦荟胶更加安全无刺激,不会引起皮肤过敏和损伤。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明进行详细说明。以下实施例将有助于本领域的技术人员进一步理解本发明,但不以任何形式限制本发明。应当指出的是,对本领域的普通技术人员来说,在不脱离本发明构思的前提下,还可以做出若干变形和改进。这些都属于本发明的保护范围。
本发明的实施例及对比例采用的原材料说明如表1,但不限于这些材料:
表1:原料表
实施例和对比例的芦荟胶的制备方法:
(1)将所需设备进行清洗、消毒;
(2)按照配比称取各组分,把增稠剂加入去离子水中,均质至无团块,加热到75℃;其中,转速为300r/min;
(3)加入库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉、保湿剂、螯合剂,搅拌分散均匀,恒温75℃,20min后检查无颗粒降温;其中,搅拌转速为200r/min;
(4)降温至45℃时,依次加入光甘草定脂质体、积雪草提取物、皮肤调理剂和pH调节剂,搅拌均匀至呈啫喱状,加入胶体银和植物提取液,再次搅拌均匀,制得抗炎舒缓芦荟胶;其中,搅拌转速为200r/min。
对实施例和对比例制备的芦荟胶进行试用测试:
1、受试者人群:选取280名年龄在18~35岁的健康女性受试者,随机分成14组,每组20人。
2、样品使用方法说明:洁面后,取适量产品于掌心,揉开后均匀涂抹在脸部并加以按摩至吸收即可。
3、测试周期:受试者每天早晚各使用1次试验样品,持续使用8周,实验期间不能涂抹任何其他化妆品。
4、测试方法:受试者在测试首日当天早上不可以使用任何化妆品。用清水清洁面部后,在温度20.0℃±1.0℃,湿度50%±5%的恒温恒湿间休息30分钟后,测试员对受试者受试面部观察是否合乎测试并拍照记录;同时进行仪器测试,记录皮肤的初始数值。
在试验期间,每隔1周进行1次回访测试,测试员对受试者受试面部观察并拍照记录;同时进行仪器测试,记录数值;让受试者对使用肤感作出评价,记录评分并统计平均值。整个测试周期共进行8次回访。
(1)功效性测试:
皮肤含水量:使用水分测试探头Corneometer CM825进行测试;测试受试者脸颊,量取三次取平均值,数值越大,则皮肤水分含量越高,说明样品保湿效果越好。
皮肤水分流失率:反映皮肤屏障功能的重要参数。使用水分流失探头TEWLTewameter TM300进行测试;测试受试者脸颊,量取三次取平均值,数值越低,说明皮肤的屏障功能和修复能力越好。
皮肤炎症评价:人体皮肤产生炎症后会有色素沉着的现象,主要沉积在真皮上部和真皮浅层血管周围的嗜黑素细胞内。通过测定皮肤中黑色素和血红素的含量,可评价皮肤的炎症情况。使用皮肤黑色素和血红素测试仪Mexameter MX18进行测试;该仪器由色素检测仪的测试探头由光源发射器和接收器组成,另有弹簧以保持检测时对皮肤的压力恒定。测试探头是基于光谱吸收的原理(RGB),通过测定特定波长的光照在人体皮肤上后的反射量来确定皮肤中黑色素和血红素的含量,即探头的发射器发出波长分别为568nm、660nm和880nm三种波长的光照射在皮肤表面,接受器测得皮肤反射的光,由于发射光的量是一定的,因此就可以测出被皮肤吸收的光的量,从而测出皮肤黑色素和血红素的含量。测试受试者脸颊,量取三次取平均值,测量数值越高,说明皮肤中黑色素和血红素的含量越高。
(2)使用感受评价标准:
受试者分别对样品的气味、保湿性、使用肤感以及总体印象作出评价,按照1-5分评价,1分为不喜欢;2分为勉强接受;3分为一般;4分为喜欢;5分为极为喜欢。
5、数据分析:将试验期间和试验后测试的数值与试验前皮肤的初始数值做比较,计算出皮肤含水量变化率、皮肤水分流失变化率、皮肤炎症变化率,表示试验后皮肤的改善情况。
皮肤含水量变化率:数值越大,说明样品对皮肤保湿的改善效果越好;
皮肤水分流失变化率:绝对值越大,说明样品对皮肤的屏障功能和修复能力改善效果越好;
皮肤炎症变化率:数值越小,说明样品对皮肤的消炎效果越好。
表2:实施例1~9的各组分配比(重量百分比)
接表2:
表3:对比例1~5的各组分配比(重量百分比)
表4:实施例1~9试用测试结果
实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | 实施例4 | 实施例5 | |
皮肤含水量变化率 | 49.10% | 53.80% | 42.80% | 46.50% | 50.30% |
水分流失变化率 | -26.11% | -29.18% | -23.53% | -27.15% | -26.27% |
皮肤炎症变化率 | 16.15% | 13.34% | 15.48% | 15.09% | 17.66% |
气味 | 3.8 | 4.2 | 4.4 | 4.4 | 4.3 |
保湿 | 4.6 | 4.6 | 4.0 | 4.2 | 4.2 |
肤感 | 4.4 | 4.4 | 4.1 | 4.0 | 4.0 |
总体评价 | 4.2 | 4.6 | 4.1 | 4.2 | 4.4 |
接表4:
表5:对比例1~5试用测试结果
对比例1 | 对比例2 | 对比例3 | 对比例4 | 对比例5 | |
皮肤含水量变化率 | 33.60% | 38.70% | 25.20% | 19.40% | 30.50% |
水分流失变化率 | -15.08% | -15.67% | -17.82% | -9.50% | -14.43% |
皮肤炎症变化率 | 25.22% | 23.97% | 30.02% | 28.49% | 26.14% |
气味 | 3.2 | 3.5 | 3.3 | 3.0 | 3.3 |
保湿 | 3.2 | 3.2 | 3.0 | 2.8 | 3.0 |
肤感 | 3.5 | 3.7 | 3.2 | 3.2 | 3.5 |
总体评价 | 3.4 | 3.5 | 3.4 | 3.0 | 3.2 |
由实施例可以看出,本发明将库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉、光甘草定脂质体、积雪草提取物三种组分配合使用,同时辅以皮肤调理剂,制得的芦荟胶具有很好的保湿抗炎的护肤功效。具体的,实施例1/2比较,加入植物提取液(马齿苋提取物和茉莉花细胞水),能够提高芦荟胶的保湿抗炎效果,且可以使芦荟胶具有更怡人的香味。
由对比例1/2与实施例1比较,不加入光甘草定脂质体或积雪草提取物,皮肤含水量变化率和水分流失变化率明显减小,且抗炎效果也变差;由对比例3/4与实施例1比较,不加入或单独加入库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉,均不能实现好的保湿抗炎效果;由对比例5与实施例1比较可以看出,皮肤调理剂的加入可以明显提高芦荟胶的保湿抗炎效果。
Claims (7)
1.一种抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,其特征在于,按重量百分比计,包括以下组分:
库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉 0.01%~3%;
光甘草定脂质体 0.05%~5%;
积雪草提取物 0.001%~0.3%;
皮肤调理剂 0.08%~8%;
保湿剂 1%~15%;
胶体银 0.1%~1.2%;
螯合剂 0.05%~0.2%;
增稠剂 0.1%~3.5%;
pH调节剂 0.1%~3%;
去离子水 补充至100%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,其特征在于,按重量百分比计,包括以下组分:
库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉 0.3%~3%;
光甘草定脂质体 0.2%~3%;
积雪草提取物 0.05%~0.3%;
皮肤调理剂 0.9%~7%;
保湿剂 1%~10%;
胶体银 0.1%~1%;
螯合剂 0.1%~0.15%;
增稠剂 0.1%~2%;
pH调节剂 0.1%~2.5%;
去离子水 补充至100%。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,其特征在于,所述的皮肤调理剂选自尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、烟酰胺或β-葡聚糖中的至少一种。
4.根据权利要求1或2所述的抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,其特征在于,所述的保湿剂选自丁二醇、D-泛醇或透明质酸钠中的至少一种。
5.根据权利要求1或2所述的抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,其特征在于,按重量百分比计,还包括0.1%~10%的植物提取液;所述的植物提取液选自马齿苋提取物或茉莉花细胞水中的至少一种。
6.根据权利要求1或2所述的抗炎舒缓芦荟胶,其特征在于,所述的螯合剂为EDTA-2Na;所述的增稠剂为卡波姆;所述的pH调节剂为氢氧化钠。
7.根据权利要求1~6任一项所述的抗炎舒缓芦荟胶的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
(1)将所需设备进行清洗、消毒;
(2)按照配比称取各组分,把增稠剂加入去离子水中,均质至无团块,加热到70℃~80℃;其中,均质的转速为230r/min~350r/min;
(3)加入库拉索芦荟凝胶干粉、保湿剂、螯合剂,搅拌分散均匀,恒温70℃~80℃,20min后检查无颗粒降温;其中,搅拌转速为200r/min~700r/min;
(4)降温至45℃时,依次加入光甘草定脂质体、积雪草提取物、皮肤调理剂和pH调节剂,搅拌均匀至呈啫喱状,加入剩余组分,再次搅拌均匀,制得抗炎舒缓芦荟胶;其中,搅拌转速为200r/min~700r/min。
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