CN112120984B - Composition for moisturizing and brightening skin and application thereof - Google Patents

Composition for moisturizing and brightening skin and application thereof Download PDF

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CN112120984B
CN112120984B CN202011075789.9A CN202011075789A CN112120984B CN 112120984 B CN112120984 B CN 112120984B CN 202011075789 A CN202011075789 A CN 202011075789A CN 112120984 B CN112120984 B CN 112120984B
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extract
magnolia
skin
composition
parts
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CN112120984A (en
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张坚妮
成海珊
罗基盛
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Shenzhen Xuezier Trading Co ltd
Guangzhou Zhishang Biology Biology Co ltd
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Shenzhen Xuezier Trading Co ltd
Guangzhou Zhishang Biology Biology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which mainly comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of magnolia sieboldii extract, 5-10 parts of magnolia denudata extract and 4-8 parts of magnolia denudata extract. The invention provides a composition taking various orchid extracts as main active ingredients, which is applied to cosmetics as the active ingredients of the cosmetics by reasonably compounding the active ingredients of magnolia sieboldii extract, magnolia denudata extract, magnolia grandiflora extract and the like. The composition provided by the invention has the effects of moisturizing, repairing, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, quickly brightening skin color, resisting oxidation and the like, achieves the purposes of obvious moisturizing effect and quickly improving skin glossiness through multiple ways, and can be widely applied to cosmetics in various formulations due to the fact that all selected natural extracts are high in safety.

Description

Composition for moisturizing and brightening skin and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition applied to the field of cosmetics, and specifically relates to a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin.
Background
Beauty is good, good skin can be provided to people, skin is tender and smooth, whitening beauty is a desired state for every woman, and skin tenderness and smoothness and whitening beauty are closely related to skin moisturizing and melanin inhibiting.
With the advancement of society and the improvement of the living standard of people, cosmetics are not luxury goods for a small number of people, and become an indispensable component in daily life of people, which is a necessity of the development of times. Therefore, green and functional cosmetics are more and more favored, and the applied varieties are more and more along with the wider application of plant extracts in cosmetics. Cosmetics formulated with plant extracts as active ingredients have many advantages over traditional cosmetics, such as: overcomes the defect that the traditional cosmetics depend on chemical synthetic products, and ensures that the safety performance of the product is higher; the natural components are easier to be absorbed by the skin, so that the effect of the product is more obvious; more outstanding functionality, etc. Therefore, the application of plant extracts to cosmetics is a necessary trend in the market development.
At present, cosmetics taking plant extracts as main functional components are increasing on the market, but the quality is not uniform. Most moisturizing products are shallow in moisturizing effect and cannot meet the requirement of deep moisturizing of skin, and whitening and skin brightening products can achieve the required effect, but often have the problems of skin irritation, light sensitivity, cytotoxicity, easy color change, poor compatibility in a formula and the like, and cannot be safe and efficient. How to develop safe cosmetics with good moisturizing and skin color brightening effects and improve the beautifying effect of the cosmetics is still a hot spot of current research.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a composition which has good effects of moisturizing, brightening skin and brightening skin, is safe and non-irritating, and is suitable for cosmetics in various dosage forms.
In order to solve the technical problems, the technical scheme provided by the invention is as follows:
a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin mainly comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of magnolia sieboldii extract, 5-10 parts of magnolia denudata extract and 4-8 parts of magnolia denudata extract.
The invention provides a composition taking various orchid extracts as main active ingredients, which can improve the natural defense capability of skin by reasonably compounding the active ingredients of the magnolia sieboldii extract, the magnolia denudata extract and the like, inhibit pigmentation by inhibiting dopa autoxidation and tyrosinase activity, accelerate the shedding of upper epidermal cells of pigments, and realize the effect of quickly improving skin color from preventing melanin generation to limiting melanosome transfer to promoting melanosome degradation; on the other hand, the skin care product has good moisture absorption and moisture retention performances, can repair skin injuries caused by radiation and the like at night, improves the water retention capacity of the skin, and also can promote skin metabolism, increase the elasticity of the skin and the hydration capacity of a cortex and keep the skin youthful vigor by removing excessive free radicals. The invention achieves the purposes of obvious moisturizing effect and skin glossiness improvement through the multiple ways, and can be widely applied to various preparations of cosmetics due to the fact that all selected natural extracts are high in use safety.
Further, the composition also comprises 2-10 parts of calanthe extract. The calanthe mitrella extract is beneficial to improving intercellular communication, especially signal communication between skin stem cells and fibroblasts, promoting substance transfer between cells, promoting synthesis of collagen and elastin in fibroblasts, improving skin firmness, elasticity, luster and brightness, and further improving the skin brightening effect of the composition. In the scheme, the calanthe marmorata extract and the three orchid extracts are added for compounding, so that the synergistic effect is achieved, the oxidative stress can be limited, the skin is protected from being damaged by inflammation, ultraviolet rays and pollution particles, and the uniformity and glossiness of the skin are improved.
Further, the weight ratio of the calanthe extract to the cymbidium extract is 3: 2. The calanthe mitrella extract and the ylang-ylang extract are compounded, so that the synergistic effect is good, the ylang-ylang extract can improve the hydration capacity of the cortex, also has a promoting effect on the activity of a protein lyase, promotes cell proliferation, improves the activity of skin, enables the transfer of substances among cells to be more efficient, and improves the synthesis efficiency of collagen and elastin in fibroblasts, thereby realizing the effect of quickly improving the skin glossiness. Particularly, when the two are compounded in a specific ratio, the effects of moisturizing and skin lightening are better.
Further, the composition also comprises one or more of gluconolactone, calcium gluconate and xanthan gum.
Furthermore, the gluconolactone is 3-5 parts by weight, the calcium gluconate is 2-6 parts by weight, and the xanthan gum is 5-8 parts by weight.
Further, the composition also comprises 15-30 parts of polyol and 22-45 parts of water.
Further, the polyalcohol is one or a combination of more of butanediol, propylene glycol and glycerol.
Further, the magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are obtained by adopting a mixed extraction mode and are mainly prepared by the following steps:
(1) weighing magnolia sieboldii plant powder and magnolia denudata powder, adding deionized water according to a material-liquid ratio of 1g to (30-50) mL, adjusting the pH of the solution to 4-5 by using an HAc-NaAc buffer solution, and adding cellulase, wherein the concentration of the cellulase is 0.4-0.6 mg/mL; carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution at the temperature of 40-50 ℃ for 2h, and then inactivating enzyme to obtain an enzymolysis solution of the magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudata;
(2) adding isopropanol with the same volume into the enzymolysis solution obtained in the step (1), carrying out reflux extraction at 50-60 ℃ for 4h, filtering, collecting filtrate, concentrating the filtrate to dryness, adding a hydrochloric acid solution with the mass concentration of 0.5% to dissolve the filtrate, adjusting the pH of the solution to 1, dissolving for 50-60 min, filtering, adjusting the pH of the filtrate to be neutral, centrifuging at the rotating speed of 3000-4000 r/min for 3-5 min to remove impurities, and collecting supernatant;
(3) and (3) carrying out vacuum concentration on the supernatant obtained in the step (2) to obtain a mixed extract of the Magnolia sieboldii and the Magnolia denudata.
The Magnolia sieboldii plant powder can be obtained by drying and pulverizing flowers, leaves, branches and roots of Magnolia sieboldii, preferably branches and flowers of Magnolia sieboldii.
According to the scheme, the magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are compounded, are extracted in an enzymolysis mode, and are dissolved in a solvent in a mode of destroying a cell wall structure, the extraction conditions are mild, heating is not needed, the obtained extraction product has higher physiological activity, the extraction rate of effective components is greatly improved, the effect of brightening the skin color of the obtained composite extract is better, and the obtained extract is safe and has no stimulation.
Further, in the preparation method, in the step (1), the mass ratio of the magnolia sieboldii plant powder to the magnolia denudata powder is 1: 0.5-2.
Furthermore, the composition also comprises a preservative such as sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol and the like, and the addition weight part can be 0.1-1.
The second technical scheme provided by the invention is as follows: the composition for moisturizing and brightening skin is applied to cosmetics.
Furthermore, the cosmetic is a skin external preparation prepared by taking the composition for moisturizing and brightening skin as an active component and adding conventional pharmaceutical or cosmetic auxiliary materials or auxiliary components. The cosmetic may be water, lotion, cream, essence, facial mask, gel, etc.
Furthermore, the content of the composition for moisturizing and brightening skin in the cosmetic is 0.5-8 wt%.
Compared with the prior art, the technical scheme provided by the invention has the following technical advantages:
the invention provides a composition taking various orchid extracts as main active ingredients, which is applied to cosmetics as the active ingredients of the cosmetics by reasonably compounding the active ingredients of the magnolia sieboldii extract, the magnolia denudata extract, the magnolia grandiflora extract and the like. The composition provided by the invention can preserve moisture, repair, inhibit tyrosinase activity, quickly brighten skin color and resist oxidation, and the purposes of obvious moisture-preserving effect and quick improvement of skin glossiness are realized through the multiple ways.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. For process parameters or conditions not specifically noted, reference may be made to conventional techniques.
The raw materials used in the present invention may be obtained by home-made or purchased from commercial sources. Wherein the extract of the magnolia flower and the extract of the magnolia sieboldii are obtained from Baihabo Co., Ltd, Guangzhou city, the extract of the calanthe margarita is obtained from Noran biological technology Co., Ltd, and the extract of the magnolia flower is obtained from Yuyu trade Co., Guangzhou.
Magnolia sieboldii belonging to the family Magnoliaceae, also called flos Celastri, flos Magnoliae, flos Celosiae or flos moutan. The main active component of the Magnolia sieboldii extract is magnolol, which can inhibit the generation of inflammatory factors 1L-1 alpha and nitric oxide, resist oxidation, inhibit the autooxidation of dopa, and inhibit the transfer of melanosomes.
Magnolia belonging to Magnoliaceae is rich in flavonoids and polyphenols. The magnolia flower extract has various skin-activating effects, has an inhibition effect on tyrosinase activity, and also has certain effects of inhibiting sensitivity, moisturizing and whitening. Modern pharmacological studies show that magnolia has an inhibitory effect on common dermatophytes.
The extract of the ylang-ylang plant belongs to Annonaceae and has the effects of promoting the activity of protease, promoting the proliferation of cells, improving the hydration capacity of cortex and having good moisturizing and antioxidant effects.
The extract of calanthe of Orchidaceae is effective in improving signal exchange between skin stem cell and fibroblast, promoting substance transfer between cells, and improving skin firmness, elasticity, luster and brightness.
The invention is further illustrated by the following examples:
example 1
The embodiment provides a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which consists of the following components: 8g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 5g of magnolia denudata extract and 4g of magnolia grandiflorum extract.
The magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are obtained by adopting a mixed extraction mode and are mainly prepared by the following steps:
(1) weighing Magnolia sieboldii plant powder and Magnolia denudata powder, adding deionized water according to the ratio of material to liquid of 1g to 30mL, adjusting the pH of the solution to 5 by using an HAc-NaAc buffer solution, and adding cellulase, wherein the concentration of the cellulase is 0.4 mg/mL; carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution at the temperature of 40 ℃ for 2 hours, and then inactivating enzyme to obtain an enzymolysis solution of the magnolia sieboldii plant and magnolia denudata;
(2) adding isopropanol with the same volume into the enzymolysis solution obtained in the step (1), carrying out reflux extraction at 60 ℃ for 4h, filtering, collecting filtrate, concentrating the filtrate to dryness, adding a hydrochloric acid solution with the mass concentration of 0.5% to dissolve the filtrate, adjusting the pH of the solution to 1, dissolving for 50min, filtering, adjusting the pH of the filtrate to be neutral, centrifuging at the rotating speed of 3000-4000 r/min for 3 min to remove impurities, and collecting supernatant;
and (3) carrying out vacuum concentration on the supernatant obtained in the step (2) to obtain a mixed extract of the Magnolia sieboldii and the Magnolia denudata.
The Magnolia sieboldii plant powder is prepared by pulverizing branches and flowers of Magnolia sieboldii, and the mass ratio of Magnolia sieboldii plant powder to Magnolia sieboldii powder is 8: 5. In this example, 13g of the magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudate mixed extract was added.
Example 2
The embodiment provides a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which consists of the following components: 5g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 10g of magnolia denudata extract and 6g of magnolia denudata extract.
The magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are obtained by adopting a mixed extraction mode and are mainly prepared by the following steps:
(1) weighing the magnolia sieboldii plant powder and the magnolia denudata powder, adding deionized water according to the material-liquid ratio of 1g to 40mL, adjusting the pH of the solution to 4 by using a HAc-NaAc buffer solution, and adding cellulase, wherein the concentration of the cellulase is 0.6 mg/mL; carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution at the temperature of 50 ℃ for 2h, and then inactivating enzyme to obtain an enzymolysis solution of the magnolia sieboldii plant and the magnolia denudata;
(2) adding isopropanol with the same volume into the enzymolysis solution obtained in the step (1), carrying out reflux extraction at 50 ℃ for 4 hours, filtering, collecting filtrate, concentrating the filtrate to dryness, adding a hydrochloric acid solution with the mass concentration of 0.5% to dissolve the filtrate, adjusting the pH of the solution to 1, dissolving for 50min, filtering, adjusting the pH of the filtrate to be neutral, centrifuging at the rotating speed of 3000-4000 r/min for 5min to remove impurities, and collecting supernatant;
and (3) concentrating the supernatant obtained in the step (2) in vacuum to obtain a mixed extract of magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudata.
The Magnolia sieboldii plant powder is prepared by pulverizing branches and flowers of Magnolia sieboldii, and the mass ratio of Magnolia sieboldii plant powder to Magnolia sieboldii powder is 1: 2. In this example, the magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are added in a manner of 15g of the mixed extract of magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudata.
Example 3
The embodiment provides a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which consists of the following components: 5g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 10g of magnolia denudata extract, 6g of magnolia sieboldii extract and 2g of calanthe mitrella extract.
The magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are extracted by mixing in the same way as in example 2.
The Magnolia sieboldii plant powder is prepared by pulverizing branches and flowers of Magnolia sieboldii, and the mass ratio of Magnolia sieboldii plant powder to Magnolia sieboldii powder is 1: 2. In this example, the magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are added in a manner of 15g of the mixed extract of magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudata.
Example 4
The embodiment provides a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which consists of the following components: 5g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 10g of magnolia denudata extract, 6g of magnolia denudata extract and 9g of calanthe mitrella extract.
The magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are extracted by mixing in the same way as in example 2.
The Magnolia sieboldii plant powder is prepared by adopting branches and flowers of Magnolia sieboldii to prepare powder, and the mass ratio of the Magnolia sieboldii plant powder to the Magnolia sieboldii powder is 1: 2. In this example, the magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are added in a manner of 15g of the mixed extract of magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudata.
Example 5
The embodiment provides a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which consists of the following components: 5g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 10g of magnolia denudata extract and 6g of magnolia sieboldii extract.
Wherein the Magnolia sieboldii extract and the Magnolia denudata extract are purchased from commercial sources, respectively.
Example 6
The embodiment provides a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which consists of the following components: 10g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 5g of magnolia denudata extract, 4g of magnolia denudata extract, 10g of calanthe mitrella extract and 0.1g of sodium benzoate.
The Magnolia sieboldii extract and the Magnolia denudata extract are obtained by adopting a mixed extraction mode and are mainly prepared by the following steps:
(1) weighing the magnolia sieboldii plant powder and the magnolia denudata powder, adding deionized water according to the material-liquid ratio of 1g to 50mL, adjusting the pH of the solution to 4 by using a HAc-NaAc buffer solution, and adding cellulase, wherein the concentration of the cellulase is 0.5 mg/mL; carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution at the temperature of 50 ℃ for 2 hours, and then inactivating enzyme to obtain an enzymolysis solution of the magnolia sieboldii plant and magnolia denudata;
(2) adding isopropanol with the same volume into the enzymolysis solution obtained in the step (1), carrying out reflux extraction at 50 ℃ for 4 hours, filtering, collecting filtrate, concentrating the filtrate to dryness, adding a hydrochloric acid solution with the mass concentration of 0.5% to dissolve the filtrate, adjusting the pH of the solution to 1, dissolving for 50min, filtering, adjusting the pH of the filtrate to be neutral, centrifuging at the rotating speed of 3000-4000 r/min for 5min to remove impurities, and collecting supernatant;
and (3) carrying out vacuum concentration on the supernatant obtained in the step (2) to obtain a mixed extract of the Magnolia sieboldii and the Magnolia denudata.
The Magnolia sieboldii plant powder is prepared by pulverizing branches and flowers of Magnolia sieboldii, and the mass ratio of Magnolia sieboldii plant powder to Magnolia sieboldii powder is 2: 1. In this example, the magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are added in a manner of 15g of the mixed extract of magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudata.
Example 7
The embodiment provides a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which consists of the following components: 5g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 10g of magnolia denudata extract, 8g of calanthe mitrella extract, 1g of sodium benzoate, 8g of xanthan gum and 4g of gluconolactone.
The magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are extracted by mixing in the same way as in example 1.
The Magnolia sieboldii plant powder is prepared by pulverizing branches and flowers of Magnolia sieboldii, and the mass ratio of Magnolia sieboldii plant powder to Magnolia sieboldii powder is 1: 2. In this example, the magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are added in a manner of 15g of the mixed extract of magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudata.
Example 8
The embodiment provides a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which consists of the following components: 8g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 8g of magnolia denudata extract, 8g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 7g of calanthe mitrella extract, 0.1g of phenoxyethanol, 0.5g of sodium benzoate, 5g of xanthan gum, 3g of gluconolactone and 2g of calcium gluconate.
The magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are extracted by mixing in the same way as in example 2.
The Magnolia sieboldii plant powder is prepared by pulverizing branches and flowers of Magnolia sieboldii, and the mass ratio of Magnolia sieboldii plant powder to Magnolia sieboldii powder is 1: 1. In this example, the magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are added in a manner of 16g of the mixed extract of magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudata.
Example 9
The embodiment provides a composition for moisturizing and brightening skin, which consists of the following components: 10g of magnolia sieboldii extract, 5g of magnolia denudata extract, 6g of magnolia denudata extract, 9g of calanthe mitrella extract, 0.8g of sodium benzoate, 7g of xanthan gum, 5g of gluconolactone and 4g of calcium gluconate.
The magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are extracted by mixing in the same way as in example 3.
The Magnolia sieboldii plant powder is prepared by adopting branches and flowers of Magnolia sieboldii to prepare powder, and the mass ratio of the Magnolia sieboldii plant powder to the Magnolia sieboldii powder is 2: 1. In this example, the magnolia sieboldii extract and the magnolia denudata extract are added in a manner of 15g of the mixed extract of magnolia sieboldii and magnolia denudata.
The method of using any one of the moisturizing and skin lightening compositions of examples 1-9 above: weighing each component according to any one of the weight numbers in the embodiments 1-9, and mixing the components with a proper amount of water and polyhydric alcohol until the weight is 80g, wherein the specific preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing sodium benzoate with small amount of water uniformly in advance for use (when no sodium benzoate is present, this step is omitted);
(2) heating the residual water to 40-45 ℃, adding the polyhydric alcohol, uniformly stirring, adding the solution obtained in the step (1) and uniformly stirring, adding the rest raw materials, and uniformly stirring to obtain the water-based paint.
Wherein, 15-30 g of polyhydric alcohol and 22-45 g of water; the polyalcohol is one or more of butanediol, propylene glycol or glycerol.
To demonstrate the effect of the present invention, comparative examples of the present application are given below:
comparative example 1
In contrast to example 9, the calanthe extract was used in place of the calanthe extract in equal amounts, i.e. without calanthe extract, 15g of calanthe extract, the other ingredients being identical.
Comparative example 2
In comparison with example 9, the cananga extract was used in place of the cananga extract in equal amounts, i.e. without cananga extract and 15g of cananga extract, all other ingredients being identical.
Efficacy evaluation
Safety test of human body patch
50 volunteers aged 20-45 years are selected, the composition of examples 1-9 is mixed with an appropriate amount of water and polyol to 60g, after uniform stirring, 15 mug of the mixture is taken into a qualified spot tester, and a group of blank control groups are arranged at the same time. The patch containing the test sample and the blank control group was applied to the curved side of the forearm of the subject with a non-irritating tape and gently pressed with the palm to apply it evenly on the skin for 24 hours. The patch was removed 24h later and the skin reaction was observed at 0.5h, 24h, 48h after patch removal. The results show that the compositions of examples 1-9 all showed negative reactions. The test sample is considered not to cause adverse reactions on the skin of the subject of this batch as specified in the technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition), and the composition of the application has better safety in use.
Second, moisture retention efficacy test
Test samples: the compositions of examples 1-9 and comparative examples 1-2 are mixed with proper amount of water and polyalcohol to 60g, stirred uniformly and then added into the following cosmetic bases according to the mass ratio of 4 parts respectively to prepare corresponding skin brightening creams. The skin-brightening cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: cetearyl alcohol// cetearyl glucoside// water// glucose 2.5 parts, glyceryl stearate// PEG-100 stearate 0.8 part, cetearyl alcohol 0.3 part, octyl methicone 4 part, squalane 2 part, glycerin 4 part, xanthan gum 0.1 part, butanediol 4 part, carbomer 0.1 part, arginine 0.1 part, preservative right amount, the experimental composition 4 parts, water to 100 parts.
The test method comprises the following steps: 55 volunteers with the average age of 20-45 years are selected as trial objects, the 55 volunteers are randomly divided into 11 groups (5 in each group), and the skin of the test subject is healthy and meets the selection standard. The inner side of the forearm being drawn at 5X 5cm 2 The test areas of (1) to (9) and (1) to (2) were uniformly applied to the arm test area with the same amount of sample, and gently massaged until absorption. The moisture content of the skin was measured by a skin moisture tester (Corneometer CM 825) for 1h, 2h and 6h before use, 3 times per measurement, and the average value was obtained to calculate the skin moisture content increase rate. During the experiment, the subject was unable to apply any other cosmetic product to the experimental site. During the experiment, the subject was unable to apply any other cosmetic at the experimental site.
The test results are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1 skin moisture content growth rate test results
Figure BDA0002716714830000081
Figure BDA0002716714830000091
As can be seen from Table 1, after 6-hour evaluation, the moisture content of the skin of the volunteer is greatly improved after the volunteer is smeared with the samples of the examples 1 to 9, the moisture content of the skin can be improved to 80.63-124.35%, and the increase rate of the moisture content of the skin can still reach more than 55% after the volunteer is used for 6 hours, which is obviously higher than that of the comparative example, and shows that the composition can immediately supplement water, preserve moisture and continuously lock the water; the water replenishing effect of embodiment 9 is also significantly superior to that of each of the other embodiments. As can be seen from table 1, compared with the examples, comparative example 1 has a good water replenishing effect but a poor water locking effect, and comparative example 2 has no good water replenishing and locking effect, which shows that the synergistic effect of the components of the composition of the present invention can provide sufficient moisture for the skin, improve the water locking capability of the skin, and achieve a good moisturizing effect.
Inhibition of tyrosinase Activity
The test samples were the compositions of examples 1 to 9 and the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 2, and the composition sample solutions were prepared by mixing the test samples with appropriate amounts of water and polyhydric alcohol to 60g, and diluting the mixture with Phosphate Buffered Saline (PBS) having a pH of 6.8 by 10 times according to the above-mentioned method of use.
Tyrosinase is a melanocyte activating enzyme, is a key enzyme for controlling the activity of melanocytes, and determines the synthesis rate of melanin. Monophenolase activity of tyrosinase was measured using 0.5mmol/L L-tyrosine as substrate. Preparing 1, 2, 3 and 4 groups of determination solutions according to the table 2, fully mixing uniformly, carrying out water bath reaction at 37 ℃ for 20min, quickly transferring to a cuvette, and measuring absorbance A at 475nm, wherein A is sequentially 1 、A 2 、A 3 、A 4 The inhibition rate of the composition on tyrosinase was calculated according to the following formula:
inhibition ratio (%) - [1 to (A) 3 ~A 4 )/(A 1 ~A 2 )]×100%
The results are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 2 determination of the liquid composition
Item Measurement solution 1 Measurement solution 2 Measurement solution 3 Measurement solution 4
L-tyrosine/ml 0.5 0 0.5 0
Composition sample solution/ml 0 0 0.5 0.5
PBS solution/ml 1.6 2.1 1.1 1.6
Tyrosinase solution/ml 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9
Total/ml 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
TABLE 3 inhibition results of tyrosinase
Sample (I) Inhibition rate/%)
Example 1 composition 82.75
Example 2 composition 84.63
Example 3 composition 88.26
Example 4 composition 91.08
Example 5 composition 80.70
Example 6 composition 87.67
Example 7 composition 88.52
Example 8 composition 92.35
Example 9 composition 94.84
Comparative example 1 composition 77.23
Comparative example 2 composition 86.41
From the results in table 2, it can be seen that the compositions of embodiments 1-9 of the present invention can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduce deposition of pigment; the inhibition rate of the composition of the embodiment 9 on the tyrosinase activity is obviously higher than that of the compositions of the comparative examples 1-2, and the composition of the invention is proved to have the synergistic effect of the composition of the calanthe marmorata extract and the cymbidium canadensis extract, so that the tyrosinase activity can be better inhibited, and the skin can be brightened.
Third, testing human body efficacy
In order to evaluate the skin-lightening effect of the composition, the compositions of examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 2 are firstly mixed with a proper amount of water and polyhydric alcohol to 60g, stirred uniformly and then respectively added into the following cosmetic bases according to the mass ratio of 4 parts to prepare the corresponding skin-lightening cream. The skin-brightening cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: cetearyl alcohol// cetearyl glucoside// water// glucose 2.5 parts, glyceryl stearate// PEG-100 stearate 0.8 part, cetearyl alcohol 0.3 part, octyl methicone 4 part, squalane 2 part, glycerin 4 part, xanthan gum 0.1 part, butanediol 4 part, carbomer 0.1 part, arginine 0.1 part, preservative right amount, the experimental composition 4 part, water to 100 parts.
Selecting the age of 30-55 years55 volunteers, the exclusion conditions of which meet the exclusion criteria in the diagnosis criteria and treatment principles of cosmetic contact dermatitis. Volunteers were divided into 11 groups of 5 persons each. During the test period, the subjects applied an equal amount of 0.8g of skin lightening cream and blank vehicle to the face twice a day, in the morning and evening, for 28 consecutive days. Meanwhile, the experimental part of the face of the volunteer could not be applied with other cosmetics during the test. MI values of the zygomatic bone region of the face of the subject were measured with skin melanin and heme test probes (Mexameter MX18, Germany CK) and L of the face of the subject was measured with skin color difference test probe (CL400, Germany CK), respectively, before and 28 days after the samples were used by the subject * Value and ITA ° value, calculate the difference. The test results are shown in Table 4.
The MI value represents the content of melanin in the skin, and the higher the measured value is, the higher the content of the melanin in the skin is;
L * the values characterize the degree of blackness of the skin, the change in which represents the change in the degree of blackness of the skin before and after use of the product. L is a radical of an alcohol * The larger the skin, the whiter the skin, and conversely, the darker the skin.
ITA DEG value is the skin individual type angle, is equal to L * And b * The associated value characterizing skin brightness. The greater the ITA ° value, the brighter the skin, whereas the darker the skin.
△MI=MI t ~MI 0 (ii) a In the formula MI t Measured 28 days after the test area; MI 0 Is the initial value of the tested area.
△L * =L * t ~L * 0 (ii) a In the formula L * t Measured 28 days after the test area; l is * 0 Is the initial value of the tested area.
△ITA°=ITA° t ~ITA° 0 (ii) a Wherein ITA ° t Measured 28 days after the test area; ITA ° 0 Is the initial value of the tested area.
Table 4 human efficacy test results
Test sample △MI △L* △ITA°
Example 1 skin lightening cream -15.74 0.94 1.47
Example 2 skin lightening cream -17.21 1.12 1.62
Example 3 skin lightening cream -18.04 1.29 1.72
Example 4 skin lightening cream -21.24 1.41 1.89
Example 5 skin lightening cream -16.28 1.03 1.56
Example 6 skin lightening cream -20.32 1.37 1.83
Example 7 skin lightening cream -19.65 1.32 1.79
Example 8 skin lightening cream -21.85 1.45 1.92
Example 9 skin lightening cream -22.13 1.58 2.04
Comparative example 1 skin lightening cream -10.12 0.67 1.13
Comparative example 2 skin lightening cream -17.57 1.21 1.64
Blank matrix 0.36 0.13 0.10
As can be seen from the results of table 4, the skin lightening cream using the composition of the present invention can significantly reduce the melanin content in the skin and improve the whiteness and brightness of the skin after 28 days.
After the skin brightening cream of the embodiment 2-4 is used for 28 days, the delta MI value, the delta L value and the delta ITA degree of the embodiment 3-4 are obviously higher than the change values of the skin brightening cream of the embodiment 2, which shows that the composition added with the calanthe mitsunoides extract and other three orchid extracts in the composition can obviously reduce the generation of melanin, inhibit the pigmentation, homogenize the skin color and brighten the skin under the synergistic effect.
After the skin brightening cream in the embodiment 9 is used for 28 days, the delta MI value, the delta L value and the delta ITA degree are obviously higher than the change values after the skin brightening cream in the comparative examples 1-2 is used, and the compounding and synergistic effect of the calanthe mitsuvialis extract and the magnolia denudata extract in the invention is shown, so that the skin uniformity and the skin glossiness are further improved. Particularly, when both are compounded at a specific ratio, the skin-lightening effect is more excellent.
Example 5 is obviously lower than the change value of the skin-brightening cream in example 2, which shows that the physiological activity of the obtained extract is higher and the skin-brightening effect of the obtained composite extract is better when the Magnolia sieboldii and the Magnolia denudata are mixed and extracted by an enzymatic hydrolysis method.
The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any other changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications which do not depart from the spirit and principle of the present invention should be construed as equivalents thereof, and all such changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (5)

1. The composition for moisturizing and brightening the skin is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of magnolia sieboldii extract, 5-10 parts of magnolia denudata extract, 4-8 parts of magnolia denudata extract and 2-10 parts of calanthe margaritae extract, wherein the weight ratio of the calanthe denudata extract to the calanthe denudata extract is 3:2, and the calanthe margaritifera extract further comprises one or more of gluconolactone, calcium gluconate and xanthan gum,
the Magnolia sieboldii extract and the Magnolia denudata extract are obtained by adopting a mixed extraction mode and are prepared by the following steps:
(1) weighing magnolia sieboldii plant powder and magnolia denudata powder, adding deionized water according to a material-liquid ratio of 1g to (30-50) mL, adjusting the pH of the solution to 4-5 by using an HAc-NaAc buffer solution, and adding cellulase, wherein the concentration of the cellulase is 0.4-0.6 mg/mL; carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution at the temperature of 40-50 ℃ for 2 hours, and then inactivating enzymes to obtain an enzymolysis solution of the magnolia sieboldii plants and magnolia denudata;
(2) adding isopropanol with the same volume into the enzymolysis solution obtained in the step (1), performing reflux extraction at 50-60 ℃ for 4 hours, filtering, collecting filtrate, concentrating the filtrate to dryness, adding a hydrochloric acid solution with the mass concentration of 0.5% to dissolve the filtrate and adjust the pH of the solution to 1, dissolving for 50-60 minutes, filtering, adjusting the pH of the filtrate to neutral, centrifuging at the rotating speed of 3000-4000 r/min for 3-5 minutes to remove impurities, and collecting supernatant;
vacuum concentrating the supernatant in step (2) to obtain a mixed extract of Magnolia sieboldii and Magnolia denudata,
according to the preparation method, in the step (1), the mass ratio of the magnolia sieboldii plant powder to the magnolia denudata powder is 1: 0.5-2.
2. The composition for moisturizing and lightening skin according to claim 1, wherein the gluconolactone is present in an amount of 3 to 5 parts by weight, the calcium gluconate is present in an amount of 2 to 6 parts by weight, and the xanthan gum is present in an amount of 5 to 8 parts by weight.
3. Use of the moisturizing, skin-lightening composition of claim 2 as a cosmetic additive.
4. The use according to claim 3, wherein the moisturizing and skin-lightening composition is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of 0.5 to 8 wt.%.
5. The use of a moisturizing and skin lightening composition according to any one of claims 3 to 4, wherein the cosmetic comprises water, lotion, cream, essence, mask, gel.
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