CN111888293B - Moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquor and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquor and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN111888293B
CN111888293B CN202010836327.8A CN202010836327A CN111888293B CN 111888293 B CN111888293 B CN 111888293B CN 202010836327 A CN202010836327 A CN 202010836327A CN 111888293 B CN111888293 B CN 111888293B
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rose
rose fermentation
fermentation liquor
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CN111888293A (en
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张启清
余海励
舒鹏
孙绪友
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Shanghai Jieshibao Daily Chemical Group Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

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Abstract

The invention relates to a moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquor and a preparation method thereof, and the raw material components of the toner comprise: 60-90 parts of rose fermentation liquor, 2-8 parts of propylene glycol, 0.1-1 part of beta-glucan, 0.5-5 parts of urea, 0.01-0.3 part of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.5-1 part of ethylhexyl glycerol and 6-25 parts of water. The rose fermentation liquor with the anagen effect is added into the toner, so that the toner is capable of replenishing water, moisturizing, resisting inflammation and resisting allergy, effectively relieving dryness, softening, moistening and smoothing skin, soothing and calming the skin and enhancing the skin barrier function after long-term use.

Description

Moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquor and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquor and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The toner is a basic skin care product for daily skin care, is used as a skin care product used in the first step after face cleaning, can clean again and recover the pH value of the surface of the skin, condition the horny layer and prepare for better absorbing subsequent care products by the skin.
CN111297715A discloses an acne-removing toner containing salicylic acid microcapsules, which consists of deionized water xanthan gum, salicylic acid microcapsules, bentonite, propylene glycol, trehalose, glycerol, menthol, hyaluronic acid and nicotinamide; the patent contains the salicylic acid microcapsule, so the acne removing cream has a good acne removing effect, lightens the irritation of salicylic acid to the skin, can be directly used on the face, and enables the face skin to be clean and tender. CN108542831B discloses a whitening skin care lotion with synergistic whitening effect, which comprises the following components by mass percent: 1-3% niacinamide; 1-4% of a whitening compound; 0.5-1.5% of citrus peel extract; 0.1-0.5% arbutin; 0.1-2% of 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide; 89-97% of cosmetic adjuvant matrix; the patent has the effects of whitening and brightening the skin by compounding the raw materials with different whitening mechanisms. CN111228176A discloses a composition with an effect of shrinking pores, essence water, a preparation method and application, wherein the composition comprises the following raw materials: allantoin, Hamamelis virginiana water, medicinal fomes fomentarius extract and oligopeptide-1; the patent has synergistic effect of various raw materials and excellent effect of shrinking pores. CN111195211A discloses a whitening moisturizing lotion and a preparation method thereof, wherein the whitening moisturizing lotion comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2-8% of wheat bran polypeptide, 2-8% of cortex lycii radicis flavone, 5-15% of glycerol, 2-10% of propylene glycol, 0.1-1% of betaine, 0.02-0.08% of polysorbate, 0.02-0.1% of methyl hydroxybenzoate, 0.01-0.06% of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.01-0.1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.01-0.1% of essence and the balance of deionized water; the whitening moisturizing lotion has good moisturizing effect and certain anti-aging effect; and (b) and (c).
According to the disclosed technology, the functions of the existing toner are mainly focused on the aspects of removing acnes, whitening skin, shrinking pores and the like, and all belong to the functions of the traditional skin care products, and the toner has single function, and usually has some effects in a certain aspect while the effects in other aspects are lacked. How to endow the existing toner with new functions and make the existing toner have excellent performance on various functions is a new trend of developing the toner in the future and has better market application prospect.
Disclosure of Invention
The first purpose of the invention is to provide the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor, wherein the rose fermentation liquor prepared by the specific method is added into the moisturizing toner, the rose is fermented by probiotics to generate tryptophan, and the tryptophan has the effect of reducing skin inflammation, so that the skin is benefited. Metabolites, cracked extracts, cell wall components and even culture supernatants of probiotics can show obvious probiotic effects, and the components with health efficacy are called postnatal. Therefore, the rose fermentation liquor has the effect of promoting the growth of vital essence, and meanwhile, the moisturizing toner has outstanding functions in the aspects of moisturizing, relieving stimulation, enhancing skin barrier and other traditional skin care products.
The second purpose of the invention is to provide a preparation method of the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquor comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 60-90 parts of rose fermentation liquor, 2-8 parts of propylene glycol, 0.1-1 part of beta-glucan, 0.5-5 parts of urea, 0.01-0.3 part of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.5-1 part of ethylhexyl glycerol and 6-25 parts of water.
According to the moisturizing toner disclosed by the invention, the rose fermentation liquor contains abundant flavone, polysaccharide and amino acid, and has multiple effects of resisting inflammation, whitening, resisting aging, moisturizing and the like. Propylene glycol has certain hygroscopicity, and can absorb moisture from the surrounding environment to play a role in moisturizing. The beta-glucan can form a transparent, elastic and breathable film on the surface of the skin, and can lock the moisture of the skin to play a role in moisturizing. Urea is present in the horny layer of the skin, and is a good moisturizing ingredient and belongs to the main ingredient of natural moisturizing factor NMF of the skin.
According to the moisturizing toner disclosed by the invention, in order to improve the storage performance and better use experience, conventional preservatives, essences and other ingredients in the field can be added, and the preservatives can be phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, caprylyl hydroximic acid and the like. Ethylhexyl glycerol is a preservative synergist.
According to the moisturizing toner, the rose fermentation liquor is preferably prepared by the following method:
(1) preparing a rose fermentation substrate: pulverizing dried flos Rosae Rugosae bud, sieving, adding water to obtain mixed solution, and sterilizing to obtain flos Rosae Rugosae fermentation matrix;
the mesh number of the screen is preferably 100-200 meshes, and the mass concentration of the mixed solution is preferably 10-15%. The sterilization is preferably carried out by sterilizing the mixed solution at 121 deg.C for 15min, or flexibly packaging the mixed solution, and then sterilizing with water as medium under 600MPa and 25 deg.C under ultrahigh pressure. The ultra-high pressure sterilization temperature is lower, polyphenol and flavonoid substances can be protected, but the ultra-high pressure sterilization cost is high, and the sterilization mode can be selected according to actual conditions.
(2) Activating strains: respectively inoculating strains on the surface of a solid activation culture medium by adopting a plate marking method, and carrying out inverted culture at the constant temperature of 37 ℃ for 15-20h to obtain activated strains;
the aim of strain activation is to restore the activity of the preserved strain and to restore its excellent productivity. The strain is selected from at least one of Bacillus bifidus, Bacillus, Lactobacillus, and Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Preferably, the strain is at least one selected from Bifidobacterium adolescentis CICC 6175, Bacillus natto CICC 10262, Lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 and Saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252. More preferably, the strain is a mixed strain of bacillus natto CICC 10262, lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 and saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252. The mass ratio of the seed liquid of the bacillus natto CICC 10262, the lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 and the saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252 after amplification culture is 1 (2-5) to (2-5). The applicant researches and discovers that when the fermentation strains meet the proportion, the obtained rose fermentation liquor contains more flavone and carbohydrate.
The strain activation mode is as follows: dipping a small amount of strains by using a sterilized bamboo stick, scribing on a solid activation culture medium according to a plate scribing method, and inversely culturing for 15-20h in a constant temperature incubator at 37 ℃ to obtain the activated strains. Because the bifidobacteria and the lactobacilli need to be activated under anaerobic conditions and the bacilli and the saccharomyces cerevisiae need to be activated under aerobic conditions, the bifidobacteria, the lactobacilli, the bacilli and the saccharomyces cerevisiae can be respectively inoculated into different solid activated culture media, then the solid activated culture media are cultured under proper conditions, and the activated strains are added into a rose fermentation substrate in the step of mixed fermentation.
The activation medium is an MRS medium and comprises 5g/L of beef extract, 10g/L of peptone, 20g/L of glucose, 4g/L of yeast powder, 5g/L of sodium acetate, 0.2g/L of magnesium sulfate, 2g/L of triammonium citrate, 2g/L of dipotassium phosphate, 0.05g/L of manganese sulfate, 801 g/L of tween-801, 20g/L of agar and the pH value of 6.2 +/-0.2. It is also preferable to add 3g/L algal polysaccharide, which can be used as a carbon source, is beneficial to strain activation and has positive effects on the colony diameter, morphology, thallus volume and the growing colony time.
(3) Mixing and fermenting: carrying out amplification culture on the activated strains, mixing to obtain a mixed bacterial liquid, adding the mixed bacterial liquid into a rose fermentation substrate according to the mass percentage of 1.5-2.5%, and carrying out shake fermentation culture at 40-45 ℃ for 45-50h to obtain an initial fermentation liquid; the rotation speed of the shaking table is preferably 100-150rpm, and the strain can be fully contacted with the fermentation substrate by adopting shaking table culture.
The expanding culture method of different strains comprises the following steps:
[1] for the saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252, after the solid culture medium is activated, selecting a bacterial colony from the bacterial colony of the solid culture medium by using an inoculating needle or an inoculating loop, putting the bacterial colony into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, slightly swinging the inoculating needle to disperse the bacteria in the liquid culture medium, culturing at 37 ℃ and 120rpm until the number of the bacteria reaches 1 x 10^9cfu/ml, and obtaining a saccharomyces cerevisiae seed solution.
[2] For the bacillus natto CICC 10262, after the solid culture medium is activated, selecting a bacterial colony from the bacterial colony of the solid culture medium by using an inoculating needle or an inoculating loop, putting the bacterial colony into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, slightly swinging the inoculating needle to disperse the bacterial colony in the liquid culture medium, culturing at 37 ℃ and 120rpm until the bacterial number reaches 1 x 10^9cfu/ml, and obtaining the bacillus natto seed solution.
[3] For bifidobacterium adolescentis CICC 6175, oxygen-resistant training is required because activation is carried out under anaerobic conditions. Specifically, after activating a solid culture medium, selecting a bacterial colony from the bacterial colony of the solid culture medium by using an inoculating needle or an inoculating loop, putting the bacterial colony into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, and standing and culturing for 24 hours; absorbing the bacterial liquid in the previous step, and inoculating the bacterial liquid into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, wherein the inoculation amount is 5 percent, and the bacterial liquid is cultured at 37 ℃ and 20rpm for 12 hours; absorbing the bacterial liquid in the previous step, and inoculating the bacterial liquid into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, wherein the inoculation amount is 10 percent, and the bacterial liquid is cultured at 37 ℃ and 60rpm for 12 hours; sucking the bacterial liquid in the previous step, inoculating the bacterial liquid into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, culturing at 37 ℃ and 120rpm until the bacterial quantity reaches 1 x 10^9cfu/ml, and obtaining a bifidobacterium adolescentis seed liquid;
[4] for lactobacillus bulgaricus cic 20271, it is aerotolerant trained as it is activated under anaerobic conditions. Specifically, after activating a solid culture medium, selecting a bacterial colony from the bacterial colony of the solid culture medium by using an inoculating needle or an inoculating loop, putting the bacterial colony into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, and standing and culturing for 24 hours; absorbing the bacterial liquid in the previous step, and inoculating the bacterial liquid into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, wherein the inoculation amount is 5 percent, and the bacterial liquid is cultured at 37 ℃ and 20rpm for 12 hours; absorbing the bacterial liquid in the previous step, and inoculating the bacterial liquid into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, wherein the inoculation amount is 10 percent, and the bacterial liquid is cultured at 37 ℃ and 60rpm for 12 hours; and (3) sucking the bacterial liquid in the previous step, inoculating the bacterial liquid into a triangular flask filled with a liquid culture medium, culturing at 37 ℃ and 120rpm until the bacterial quantity reaches 1 x 10^9cfu/ml, and obtaining the lactobacillus bulgaricus seed liquid.
(4) And (3) fermentation post-treatment: and sequentially sterilizing, crushing and filtering the initial fermentation liquor to obtain the rose fermentation liquor.
The sterilization mode is the same as that in the step (1), the thallus is crushed by preferably adopting a high-pressure homogenizer, so that zymophyte and part of rose cells are crushed, intracellular substances are dissolved out, and the components of rose fermentation liquor are richer. The high pressure homogenization pressure is set to 100MPa, the homogenization is carried out for 3-5 times, and the outlet temperature is 25 ℃. Ultrasonication of the cells may also be used. The filtration is selected from one of centrifugal separation, ultrafiltration membrane filtration, microfiltration membrane filtration and reverse osmosis filtration, or the thallus is broken without filtration after sterilization, so as to remove suspended matters and prevent sedimentation.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor, which comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing and stirring water, propylene glycol and hydroxyethyl cellulose to uniformly disperse to obtain a phase A;
(2) and sequentially adding rose fermentation liquor, beta-glucan, urea and ethylhexylglycerin into the phase A, and uniformly stirring to obtain the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor is added with various components including the rose fermentation liquor, propylene glycol, beta-glucan, urea and ethylhexylglycerin, and the rose fermentation liquor replaces most of water, and the toner finally prepared by reasonably proportioning the various raw materials is natural, mild, non-irritant and long-term in use, has excellent moisturizing effect, can effectively relieve dryness, enables the skin to be soft, moist and fine, and is fresh and non-greasy when used for moisturizing. In addition, the invention also has remarkable anti-inflammatory and anti-allergy effects, and can effectively relieve irritation, calm skin and enhance the skin barrier function.
(2) The moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor is added with the rose fermentation liquor prepared by a specific method, and compared with a commercially available rose extracting solution, the rose fermentation liquor prepared by the method contains more flavone, polysaccharide and amino acid components, can promote the growth of beneficial bacteria of the skin and inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria of the skin, and further has the effect of regulating the micro-ecology of the skin.
(3) The preparation method of the moisturizing toner is simple, the process is stable and controllable, and the moisturizing toner is suitable for large-scale production and application.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the technical solutions of the present invention will be described in detail below. It is to be understood that the described embodiments are merely a few embodiments of the invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the examples given herein without any inventive step, are within the scope of the present invention.
TABLE 1 moisturizing toner formulations containing rose broth
Figure BDA0002639832280000061
Figure BDA0002639832280000071
Preparing the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor:
(1) adding the water and the propylene glycol in the phase A into a stirring pot, starting stirring, slowly adding the hydroxyethyl cellulose into the stirring pot, and stirring until the mixture is completely uniform;
(2) and (4) sequentially adding the phase B materials into a stirring pot, and uniformly stirring to obtain the material.
Preparation of rose fermentation liquor
Preparation example 1
(1) Preparing a rose fermentation substrate: pulverizing dried flos Rosae Rugosae bud, sieving with 100 mesh sieve, adding water to obtain a mixture with a mass concentration of 10%, and sterilizing at 121 deg.C for 15min to obtain flos Rosae Rugosae fermentation medium.
(2) Activating strains:
dipping a sterilized bamboo stick into the Bacillus natto CICC 10262 strain, streaking on a solid activation culture medium according to a plate streaking method, and performing inverted aerobic culture in a constant-temperature incubator at 37 ℃ for 15-20h to obtain the activated Bacillus natto CICC 10262 strain.
Dipping a sterilized bamboo stick to obtain the lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271, streaking on a solid activation culture medium according to a plate streaking method, and performing inverted anaerobic culture in a constant temperature incubator at 37 ℃ for 15-20h to obtain the activated lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 strain.
Dipping the sterilized bamboo stick with the saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252, streaking on a solid activation culture medium according to a plate streaking method, and carrying out inverted aerobic culture in a constant temperature incubator at 37 ℃ for 15-20h to obtain the activated saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252 strain.
The activation medium is an MRS medium and comprises 5g/L of beef extract, 10g/L of peptone, 20g/L of glucose, 4g/L of yeast powder, 5g/L of sodium acetate, 0.2g/L of magnesium sulfate, 2g/L of triammonium citrate, 2g/L of dipotassium phosphate, 0.05g/L of manganese sulfate, 801 g/L of tween-801, 20g/L of agar and the pH value of 6.2 +/-0.2.
(3) Mixing and fermenting: respectively carrying out amplification culture on the activated strains, mixing the strains according to the mass ratio of 1:3:3 of seed liquids of bacillus natto CICC 10262, lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 and saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252, adding the mixed bacterial liquid into a rose fermentation substrate according to the mass percentage of 2%, and carrying out shake fermentation culture at 40 ℃ and 120rpm for 48h to obtain initial fermentation liquid.
(4) And (3) fermentation post-treatment: sterilizing the initial fermentation liquid at 121 deg.C for 15min, crushing thallus with High Pressure Homogenizer at 100MPa for 3 times and 25 deg.C, centrifuging, and collecting supernatant to obtain rose fermentation liquid.
Preparation examples 2 to 12 were carried out in the same manner as in preparation example 1 except that one experimental parameter was changed, and the specific setting was shown in Table 2. The bifidobacterium adolescentis CICC 6175, the bacillus natto CICC 10262, the lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 and the saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252 in the preparation examples are all purchased from China center for industrial microorganism culture collection and management.
The extraction method of the rose extract in comparative example 1 was: pulverizing dried flos Rosae Rugosae, sieving with 100 mesh sieve, adding water to obtain 10% mixed solution, sterilizing at 121 deg.C for 15min, maintaining at 40 deg.C for 48 hr, sterilizing at 121 deg.C for 15min, centrifuging, and collecting supernatant to obtain clear water extractive solution.
The preparation method of the rose fermentation liquor in the comparative example 2 comprises the following steps: replacing the activation medium in the step 2) with a Sabouraud's dextrose broth.
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0002639832280000081
Figure BDA0002639832280000091
Examples of the experiments
First, nutrient component detection
Measuring the total flavone content of the rose fermentation liquor prepared in preparation examples 1 to 12 and the rose extract prepared in comparative examples 1 and 2 by a spectrophotometry method; determining the total sugar content by referring to GB/T5009.7-2008; the amino acid content was determined with reference to GB/T5009.124-2003. The test results are shown in tables 3 and 4.
TABLE 3 Rose fermentation broth content
Figure BDA0002639832280000092
Figure BDA0002639832280000101
TABLE 4 amino acid content of rose fermentation broth
Amino acids Preparation example 1(mg/ml) COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1(mg/ml)
Tryptophan (Try) 0.4 0.06
Aspartic Acid (ASP) 0.34 0.1
Threonine (Thr) 0.18 0.02
Serine (Ser) 0.16 0.04
Glutamic acid (Glu) 0.36 0.02
Glycine (Gly) 0.04 0.02
Alanine (Ala) 0.48 0.02
Cystine (Cys) 0.4 0.48
Valine (Val) 1.38 0.44
Isoleucine (Ile) 0.44 0.54
Leucine (Leu) 9.52 4.8
Tyrosine (Tyr) 3.84 1.7
Phenylalanine (Phe) 2.4 0.88
Lysine (Lys) 0.34 0.02
Histidine (His) 0.04 0
Proline (Pro) 0.02 0.04
Sum of 20.34 9.18
The above experimental results show that, as compared with the conventional aqueous rose extract, the rose fermentation broth according to the present invention contains more active substances such as polysaccharides, flavones and amino acids, as shown in comparative preparation example 1 and comparative example 1.
As can be seen from the comparison of preparation examples 1 to 12, when Bacillus natto CICC 10262, Lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 and Saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252 are used as the fermentation strains and the mass ratio of the Bacillus natto CICC 10262 to the Lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 to the Saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252 satisfies 1 (2-5) to (2-5), the content of the active substances in the rose fermentation liquid is the highest.
As is clear from comparison of preparation examples 1 and 7 to 9, when algal polysaccharides were added to both the activation medium and the amplification medium, the active substance content could be further increased. However, replacing trehalose with glucose or rice flour does not have a corresponding effect, because the trehalose stimulates the strain to express certain genes, so that the capability of the strain to decompose and synthesize active substances is improved, and the strain is more vigorous in growth state and stronger in activity.
As can be seen from comparison of preparation examples 1 and 10, the shaking table culture had more active substances than the static culture during the mixed fermentation, probably because the shaking table made the fermentation tubes sufficiently contact with the rose, and the active ingredients were more easily produced and eluted.
Comparing preparation examples 1 and 11, the flavone content was increased, probably because the ultra-high pressure sterilization protected the flavone and reduced its oxidation.
Comparing preparation example 1 and comparative example 2, it was found that more active substance was obtained by using the solid activation medium than by using the liquid activation medium. And the solid medium has a lower mass per unit volume than a liquid medium and requires less equipment for the production process. A large amount of liquid strains need to be cultured in a large-scale liquid fermentation tank, so that the requirements on fields and energy (steam) are high; the strain is cultured by using the solid culture medium, only sterilization equipment is needed, and the strain can be produced under the condition of lower conditions.
Experiments show that the rose generates tryptophan after being fermented by probiotics, and researches show that the tryptophan generates IAld after being fermented by skin microorganisms, so that stimulation is relieved, and inflammatory reaction is relieved. This type of active substance metabolized by probiotics to produce skin benefits is called metazoan. Comparing the rose fermentation liquor of the preparation example 1 with the rose extract of the comparative example 1, it can be seen that the tryptophan content in the rose fermentation liquor of the invention is significantly increased, which indicates that the rose produces metazoan through probiotic fermentation, and can play a role in anti-inflammation.
Second, in vitro inhibition of hyaluronidase Activity
1. The test principle is as follows: hyaluronidase is a participant of type I anaphylactic reaction, and has strong correlation with inflammation and allergy, so the inhibition rate of hyaluronidase activity can be used for evaluating anti-allergic effect, and the higher the inhibition rate of hyaluronidase is, the stronger the anti-allergic effect is, otherwise, the weaker the anti-allergic effect is.
2. The test process comprises the following steps: adding 0.1mL of 2.5mmol/L CaCl 2 Adding into 0.5mL of 500U/mL hyaluronidase, and keeping the temperature in water bath at 37 ℃ for 20min to react; after the reaction is finished, adding 0.5mL of sample solution, and carrying out water bath at 37 ℃ for 20min to react; then 0.5mL of 0.5mg/mL sodium hyaluronate is added, and the mixture is subjected to water bath at 37 ℃ and heat preservation for 30min to react; then 0.5mL of an acetylacetone solution (50mL of a 1.0mol/L sodium carbonate solution +3.5mL of an acetylacetone solution) was added thereto, and the mixture was placed in a boiling water bathKeeping for 15min to react, and immediately cooling by ice water for 5 mim; 1.0mL of Ehrlich reagent was added, and the mixture was left at room temperature for 30min to develop color, and the absorbance was measured at 535 nm. Hyaluronidase inhibition (%) - (A-B) - (C-D)]/(A-B). times.100%; a-absorbance of control solution (sample solution replaced with acetate buffer); b-absorbance of control blank solution (sample solution and enzyme solution were replaced with acetate buffer); c-absorbance of the sample solution; d-absorbance of blank solution of sample (acetic acid buffer solution was used instead of enzyme solution).
3. The results of the tests are given in the following table.
TABLE 5 comparison of hyaluronidase inhibition
Sample (I) Hyaluronidase inhibition%
Preparation example 1 Rose fermented liquid 86.62
Comparative example 1 Rose extract 45.37
The result shows that compared with the traditional rose water extraction, the hyaluronidase inhibition rate of the rose fermentation liquor is obviously improved, and the rose fermentation liquor has stronger anti-allergy and relieving effects.
Thirdly, evaluating the moisturizing efficacy of the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor
30 female volunteers were selected, moisturizing effects of the toners of examples 1-4 and comparative examples 3-4 of the invention were tested by referring to QB/T4256-.
TABLE 6
Figure BDA0002639832280000121
Figure BDA0002639832280000131
The results show that the samples of examples 1-4 of the invention have significantly higher skin hydration after 8 hours of use than comparative examples 3 and 4, which shows that the toner of the invention has better skin moisturizing effect than the mode without adding the rose fermentation liquid and adding the rose water extract.
Fourthly, evaluating the soothing effect of the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor
20 volunteers aged 18-60 years, both male and female, were divided into 2 groups of 10 individuals each. Before the experiment, medicines such as anti-inflammatory drugs and antihistamines are not taken, the rose fermentation liquor toner is used once every morning and evening, and other products with the relieving effect cannot be used during the experiment. Before use, 14 days after use, and 28 days after use, the water loss was observed using a water loss test probe, Tewameter TM300, and the improvement in the red pigment of the melanin and heme test probe, Mexameter MX 18.
TABLE 7
TEWL(g/h/m 2 ) D0 D14 D28
Example 1 15.22±1.29 13.02±1.31 10.28±1.25
Comparative example 4 18.49±1.14 17.14±1.24 15.92±1.29
TABLE 8
Red pigment (E.U.) D0 D14 D28
Example 1 72.5±4.46 68.3±6.24 60.1±5.13
Comparative example 4 69.2±5.17 68.2±6.13 65.8±6.42
The percutaneous dehydration and the haematochrome are important parameters for judging skin inflammation and skin sensitivity. The skin is inflamed or the skin barrier of sensitive people is damaged, water is easy to lose, and the skin is also easy to turn red, so the values of the percutaneous water loss and the skin haematochrome are high. The result shows that the toner added with the rose extract has no soothing effect, and the moisturizing toner added with the rose fermentation liquor can reduce the percutaneous water loss and the haematochrome value and has the soothing effect.
The above description is only for the specific embodiments of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art can easily conceive of the changes or substitutions within the technical scope of the present invention, and all the changes or substitutions should be covered within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope of the appended claims.

Claims (7)

1. The moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquor is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 60-90 parts of rose fermentation liquor, 2-8 parts of propylene glycol, 0.1-1 part of beta-glucan, 0.5-5 parts of urea, 0.01-0.3 part of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.5-1 part of ethylhexyl glycerol and 6-25 parts of water;
the preparation method of the rose fermentation liquor comprises the following steps:
1) preparing a rose fermentation substrate: pulverizing dried flos Rosae Rugosae bud, sieving, adding water to obtain mixed solution, and sterilizing to obtain flos Rosae Rugosae fermentation matrix;
2) activating strains: respectively inoculating strains on the surface of a solid activation culture medium by adopting a plate marking method, and carrying out inverted culture at the constant temperature of 37 ℃ for 15-20h to obtain activated strains;
3) mixing and fermenting: carrying out amplification culture on the activated strains, mixing to obtain a mixed bacterial liquid, adding the mixed bacterial liquid into a rose fermentation substrate according to the mass percentage of 1.5-2.5%, and carrying out shake fermentation culture at 40-45 ℃ for 45-50h to obtain an initial fermentation liquid;
4) and (3) fermentation post-treatment: sequentially sterilizing, crushing and filtering the initial fermentation liquor to obtain the rose fermentation liquor;
in the step 2), the strain is a mixed strain of bacillus natto CICC 10262, lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 and saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252, and the mass ratio of the bacillus natto CICC 10262, lactobacillus bulgaricus CICC 20271 and saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1252 seed solution after the enlarged culture in the step 3) is 1 (2-5) to (2-5).
2. The moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquid as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the step 1), the mass concentration of the mixed solution is 10% -15%.
3. The moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquid according to claim 1, wherein in step 2), the activation medium is MRS medium comprising beef extract 5g/L, peptone 10g/L, glucose 20g/L, yeast powder 4g/L, sodium acetate 5g/L, magnesium sulfate 0.2g/L, triammonium citrate 2g/L, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate 2g/L, manganese sulfate 0.05g/L, Tween-801 g/L, agar 20g/L, pH 6.2 ± 0.2.
4. The moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation broth as claimed in claim 1, wherein the activation medium further comprises algal polysaccharide added in an amount of 3g/L in step 2).
5. The moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation broth of claim 1, wherein in step 3), the rotational speed of the shaker is 100-150 rpm.
6. The moisturizing toner containing rose fermentation liquid according to claim 1, wherein in steps 1) and 4), the sterilization is performed at 121 ℃ for 15min or at 600MPa and 25 ℃ under ultrahigh pressure;
in the step 4), a high-pressure homogenizer is adopted to crush the thalli, the pressure is set to be 100MPa, the thalli are homogenized for 3-5 times, and the outlet temperature is 25 ℃.
7. The method for preparing the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor as claimed in claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) mixing and stirring water, propylene glycol and hydroxyethyl cellulose to uniformly disperse to obtain a phase A;
(2) and sequentially adding rose fermentation liquor, beta-glucan, urea and ethylhexylglycerin into the phase A, and uniformly stirring to obtain the moisturizing toner containing the rose fermentation liquor.
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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105147586A (en) * 2015-09-30 2015-12-16 上海全丽生物科技有限公司 Rose fermentation puree as well as preparation method and application thereof
CN107970203A (en) * 2018-01-25 2018-05-01 广州无添加主义化妆品有限公司 A kind of biofermentation surfactant and preparation method thereof

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105147586A (en) * 2015-09-30 2015-12-16 上海全丽生物科技有限公司 Rose fermentation puree as well as preparation method and application thereof
CN107970203A (en) * 2018-01-25 2018-05-01 广州无添加主义化妆品有限公司 A kind of biofermentation surfactant and preparation method thereof

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