CN111877012B - Water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method for wool-cotton worsted fabric - Google Patents
Water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method for wool-cotton worsted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN111877012B CN111877012B CN202010753382.0A CN202010753382A CN111877012B CN 111877012 B CN111877012 B CN 111877012B CN 202010753382 A CN202010753382 A CN 202010753382A CN 111877012 B CN111877012 B CN 111877012B
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/15—Proteins or derivatives thereof
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- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/192—Polycarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
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- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
- D06M13/248—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing sulfur
- D06M13/252—Mercaptans, thiophenols, sulfides or polysulfides, e.g. mercapto acetic acid; Sulfonium compounds
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- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
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- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/263—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
- D06M15/277—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof containing fluorine
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
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- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/10—Repellency against liquids
- D06M2200/12—Hydrophobic properties
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/20—Treatment influencing the crease behaviour, the wrinkle resistance, the crease recovery or the ironing ease
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
Abstract
The invention discloses a water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of a wool-cotton worsted fabric, which comprises the following steps: s1: hydrolyzing alcohol soluble protein with alkaline protease, heating for enzymolysis to inactivate enzyme, centrifuging, collecting supernatant, and dialyzing to obtain polypeptide; s2: soaking the wool-cotton worsted fabric in a reduction treatment solution, heating to 55-70 ℃, carrying out heat preservation reaction, then cooling, taking out the wool-cotton worsted fabric, cleaning and drying, wherein the reduction treatment solution mainly comprises polypeptide obtained in S1, ethanol, a reducing agent and an alkaline pH value regulator; s3: padding and finishing the wool and cotton worsted fabric obtained in the S2 by using an alkaline perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water repellent finishing liquid, and pre-baking to obtain the water repellent shrink-proof wool and cotton worsted fabric. In the water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method for the wool and cotton worsted fabric, the polypeptide finishing improves the hydrophobicity of the wool and cotton worsted fabric, and the fabric is crease-resistant, stiff and smooth; the perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate can make the surface of the fabric smoother and more water repellent, and the durability of the crease resistance of the fabric is improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of wool-cotton worsted fabric production, in particular to a water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of a wool-cotton worsted fabric.
Background
The film forming substances in the anti-felting finishing liquid of the wool fabric mainly comprise the following three substances: polyurethanes, proteins, chitosan, polysiloxanes. The protein in the finishing liquid mainly comprises wool keratin, silk fibroin, sericin and the like. The basic principle of the protein finishing agent is to form a layer of protein coating on the surface of wool fibers, particularly to enable the concave-convex structure of the wool fiber scale layer to be smoother and enhance the pilling resistance of wool fiber fabrics.
In order to secure the film-forming strength on the fiber surface, the amount of polyurethane used in the finishing liquid needs to be increased as much as possible, but too much amount of polyurethane causes deterioration of the hand feeling. In the improved technical scheme, a compound film-forming substance is mostly adopted, for example, a nanocrystalline cellulose and polyurethane compound, a chitosan and polyurethane compound, a proteolytic polypeptide and chitosan compound and the like.
CN103387598A discloses a textile finishing agent compounded with film forming substances, in the embodiment, wool keratin polypeptide, sericin polypeptide and silk fibroin polypeptide are used as polypeptide raw materials, aqueous polyurethane and acrylate adhesive emulsion are used as formaldehyde-free adhesives, and as the wool keratin, silk fibroin and silk fibroin all contain a large amount of hydrophilic amino acid residues, the hydrophilicity of the formed film on the textile fiber surface is good, and in the scheme, water-soluble amino acids in the wool keratin, silk sericin and silk fibroin are mainly utilized, so that the textile has the functions of antibiosis, ultraviolet resistance and the like. The wool-cotton worsted fabric contains a certain proportion of cotton fibers, compared with a full wool fabric, the crease resistance of the wool-cotton worsted fabric is poor, the perfluoro alkyl polyacrylate finished wool-cotton worsted fabric in the prior art has good water repellency and shrink resistance and smooth surface, but the improvement on the crease resistance and stiffness degree of the fabric is limited, and particularly the worsted fabric with the cotton content of more than 50 percent.
Disclosure of Invention
One of the purposes of the invention is to overcome the defects in the prior art and provide a water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method for wool-cotton worsted fabric, wherein polypeptide finishing and perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water-repellent finishing liquid finishing are combined, and the finished fabric has good water-repellent shrink-resistant performance and improved stiffness and smoothness.
In order to achieve the technical effects, the technical scheme of the invention is as follows: a water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of a wool-cotton worsted fabric comprises the following steps:
s1: hydrolyzing alcohol soluble protein with alkaline protease, heating for enzymolysis to inactivate enzyme, centrifuging, collecting supernatant, and dialyzing to obtain polypeptide;
s2: soaking the wool and cotton worsted fabric in a reduction treatment solution, heating to 55-70 ℃, carrying out heat preservation reaction, then cooling, taking out the wool and cotton worsted fabric, cleaning and drying, wherein the reduction treatment solution mainly comprises the polypeptide obtained from S1, ethanol, a reducing agent and an alkaline pH value regulator;
s3: padding and finishing the wool and cotton worsted fabric obtained in the step S2 by using an alkaline perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water repellent finishing liquid, and prebaking to obtain the water repellent shrink-proof wool and cotton worsted fabric.
The preferable technical scheme is that the enzyme-substrate ratio of the alkaline protease to the alcohol soluble protein is 100-150 mAU/g, the pH value of a hydrolysis system is 9-11, the enzymolysis reaction temperature is 40-50 ℃, and the reaction time is 3-6 h.
The preferable technical scheme is that on the basis of the weight of the wool-cotton worsted fabric, the reducing agent in the reduction treatment liquid is mercaptoethanol, the dosage of the reducing agent is 1-5% o.w.f., the dosage of the polypeptide is 1-7% o.w.f., the mass percentage of the ethanol in the reduction treatment liquid is 15-35%, and the pH value of the reduction treatment liquid is 8-9. The use amount of the polypeptide is too large, the grafting weight gain rate is increased, and the adsorption of perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate on the fiber surface is not facilitated. The function of the ethanol in the reduction treatment liquid is to promote the dissolution of the polypeptide, and the weight gain rate of the wool-cotton worsted fabric is increased along with the increase of the dosage of the polypeptide within the range of 1-7% o.w.f. Because wool has certain anti-wrinkle performance, if the dosage of the polypeptide is too small, the anti-wrinkle stiffness and smoothness of the fabric are not obviously improved.
The preferred technical scheme is that the relative molecular weight of the polypeptide is 0.2-0.8 Kda. When the relative molecular weight of the polypeptide is more than 0.8Kda, the water repellency, anti-wrinkle durability of the wool-surface worsted fabric is obviously reduced. When the relative molecular weight of the polypeptide is less than 0.2Kda, the water repellency of the fabric can be improved by polypeptide finishing, but the effect of improving the anti-wrinkle performance of the fabric is not obvious.
The preferable technical scheme is that the perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water repellent finishing liquid in S3 is a nonionic emulsion of perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate, and the amount of perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate is 6.5-10% based on the weight of the wool-cotton worsted fabric.
The preferable technical scheme is that the padding rate of padding finishing in S3 is 80-90%, and the reaction temperature of perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water repellent finishing liquid is 40-45 ℃. The water repellent finish effect becomes poor at too low a temperature.
The preferable technical scheme is that the baking temperature in S3 is 140-150 ℃. The baking temperature is too low, which is not favorable for the full reaction between the finishing agent and the fiber, and is not favorable for the water washing resistance and durability of the finishing effect.
The preferable technical scheme is that the reduction treatment fluid also comprises diglycolic acid; based on the weight of the worsted wool-cotton fabric, the dosage of diglycolic acid is 0.2-0.8% o.w.f. The micromolecular glycolic acid is beneficial to improving the weight gain rate of the fabric after polypeptide finishing, and can also improve the durability of water-repellent crease-resistant finishing of the fabric.
The invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that:
according to the water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of the wool-cotton worsted fabric, the wool-cotton worsted fabric is subjected to two steps of polypeptide finishing and perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water-repellent finishing liquid finishing in sequence, a reducing agent is used for reducing disulfide bonds of wool fibers in the fabric, newly generated sulfydryl and cysteine residues in polypeptide are reconstructed to generate new disulfide bonds, and/or terminal carboxyl of polypeptide chain reacts with hydroxyl on the surface of the cotton fibers. Because the main composition amino acid of the polypeptide chain is hydrophobic amino acid, the hydrophobic performance of the wool-cotton worsted fabric can be improved by polypeptide finishing, and the wool-cotton worsted fabric can be more crease-resistant and stiff and smooth; the perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate can make the surface of the fabric smoother and more water repellent, and further improve the durability of the crease resistance of the fabric.
Detailed Description
The following further describes embodiments of the present invention with reference to examples. The following examples are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention more clearly, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby.
The water-repellent crease-resistant finishing is carried out on the wool-cotton spinning fabric, and the wool-cotton spinning fabric comprises the following fibers: 30% wool, 70% cotton and a gram weight of 205g/m 2 And the source of the fabric is as follows: jiangsu sunshine group;
prolamin: zein, food grade, content 99.5%;
perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate: nonionic emulsion containing 28% of poly (dihydropentadecafluorooctyl acrylate), FC-208,3M; the perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate finishing liquid contains FC-208%, sodium acetate 3% and the balance of water, and the pH value is alkaline.
Example 1
The water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of the wool-cotton worsted fabric comprises the following steps:
s1: dispersing alcohol soluble protein in water, adjusting the pH value of alcohol soluble protein dispersion to 9.5 by using an alkaline pH value regulator sodium hydroxide solution, heating to 40-45 ℃, adding alkaline protease into the alcohol soluble protein dispersion according to the enzyme base ratio of 120mAU/g, carrying out heat preservation reaction for 6 hours, then heating to 95 ℃ to inactivate enzyme, cooling, centrifuging, taking supernate, separating polypeptides with different relative molecular weights of 0.2-0.8 Kda by using a dialysis bag, and concentrating to obtain polypeptide dispersion;
s2: mixing the polypeptide dispersion liquid, ethanol and a reducing agent thioglycolic acid in water, adding a sodium hydroxide solution to obtain a reduction treatment solution with the pH value of 8.5, soaking the wool and cotton worsted fabric in the reduction treatment solution, heating to 65-70 ℃, carrying out heat preservation reaction, then cooling, taking out the wool and cotton worsted fabric, cleaning and drying; the dosage of the reducing agent is 4% o.w.f., the dosage of the polypeptide is 5% o.w.f., the mass percentage of the ethanol in the reduction treatment liquid is 25%, and the bath ratio is 1;
s3: and (3) soaking the wool and cotton worsted fabric obtained by the double-rolling finishing S2 in alkaline perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water repellent finishing liquid at the temperature of 40-45 ℃ for two times, wherein the bath ratio is 1.
Examples 2 to 3
Examples 2-3 are based on example 1, except that the relative molecular weight of the polypeptide of example 2 is 0.2Kda or less, and the relative molecular weight of the polypeptide of example 3 is 0.8Kda to 1.5Kda.
Examples 4 to 6
Examples 4-6 are based on example 1 with the difference that the reducing treatment solution of example 4 further comprises diglycolic acid 0.1% o.w.f, the reducing treatment solution of example 5 further comprises diglycolic acid 0.5% o.w.f, and the reducing treatment solution of example 6 further comprises a crosslinking agent glutaraldehyde 0.5% o.w.f, which is commonly used for protein finishing, based on the weight of the wool/cotton worsted fabric.
Examples 7 to 8
Example 7 is based on example 1 with the difference that the baking temperature in S3 is 125 to 130 ℃.
Example 8 is based on example 1 except that in S3 the wool worsted face fabric is finished at ambient temperature and the perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate is used in an amount of 15% based on the weight of the wool worsted face fabric.
Example 9
Example 9 is based on example 1 with the difference that the amount of reducing agent is 2% o.w.f., the amount of polypeptide is 2% o.w.f., the mass percentage of ethanol in the reduction treatment fluid is 15%, and the pH of the reduction treatment fluid is 8.
Comparative example:
comparative example 1 comprises the steps S1 and S2 of example 1 and the resulting fabric of S2 is left to bake for 150S at 145-150 ℃.
Comparative example 2 the S3 perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate finish was made directly on wool worsted fabric.
The samples obtained in the examples and comparative examples were tested for the following properties:
1. and (3) detecting the static water absorption performance: dripping a drop of water on the surface of the paved fabric by a standard dropper of 25 drops/ml at a position 2cm away from the worsted cotton fabric, measuring the time for the fabric to completely absorb the drop of water under the completely static condition, paralleling 10 samples, and taking an average value;
2. testing the wrinkle recovery angle of the wool and cotton worsted fabric according to the AATCC test method 66-2008, and removing the average value after 5 times of each pass through the weft direction;
3. and (3) testing water resistance: washing the wool and cotton worsted fabric for 10 times according to the washing standard of the International wool agency TM31 wool textile product, and measuring the static water absorption performance and the wrinkle recovery angle of the washed wool and cotton worsted fabric according to the methods 1 and 2;
static water absorption time: the static water absorption time of the unfinished wool-cotton fabric was 1.4s, and the static water absorption times of examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were: the static water absorption times of examples 1-9 and comparative example 2 were each greater than 6h, whereas the static water absorption time of comparative example 1 was 42s.
After 10 standard washes, the static water absorption times of examples 1-3 were 5.7h, 5.9h, and 5.3h, respectively, the static water absorption times of examples 4-6 were greater than 6h, and the static water absorption times of examples 7-9 and comparative examples 1-2 were 5.3h, 5.5h, 4.8h, 8s, and 4.6h, respectively.
Crease recovery angle (warp + weft): the wrinkle recovery angles of examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were: 255 °, 220 °, 260 °, 270 °, 265 °, 225 °, 230 °, 215 °, 205 °, 185 °.
After 10 standard washes, the crease recovery angles (warp + weft) for examples 1-9 were: 240 °, 210 °, 235 °, 250 °, 265 °, 260 °, 210 °, 220 °, 205 °.
The wool-cotton worsted fabric sequentially finished by the polypeptide and the perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate has obviously improved water repellency and crease resistance, good water washing resistance of the water repellency and crease resistance, smooth surface and high wearing comfort.
The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, various modifications and decorations can be made without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, and these modifications and decorations should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (8)
1. A water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of a wool-cotton worsted fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
s1: hydrolyzing alcohol soluble protein with alkaline protease, heating for enzymolysis to inactivate enzyme, centrifuging, collecting supernatant, and dialyzing to obtain polypeptide;
s2: soaking the wool-cotton worsted fabric in a reduction treatment solution, heating to 55-70 ℃, carrying out heat preservation reaction, then cooling, taking out the wool-cotton worsted fabric, cleaning and drying, wherein the reduction treatment solution mainly comprises polypeptide obtained in S1, ethanol, a reducing agent and an alkaline pH value regulator;
s3: padding and finishing the wool and cotton worsted fabric obtained in the step S2 by using an alkaline perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water repellent finishing liquid, and prebaking to obtain the water repellent shrink-proof wool and cotton worsted fabric.
2. The water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of wool-cotton worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the enzyme-substrate ratio of the alkaline protease to the alcohol soluble protein is 100-150 mAU/g, the pH value of a hydrolysis system is 9-11, the enzymolysis reaction temperature is 40-50 ℃, and the reaction time is 3-6 h.
3. The water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of wool and cotton worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, based on the weight of the wool and cotton worsted fabric, the reducing agent in the reduction treatment liquid is mercaptoethanol, the amount of the reducing agent is 1-5% o.w.f, the amount of the polypeptide is 1-7% o.w.f, the mass percentage of ethanol in the reduction treatment liquid is 15-35%, and the pH value of the reduction treatment liquid is 8-9.
4. The water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of wool and cotton worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the relative molecular weight of the polypeptide is 0.2-0.8 Kda.
5. The water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of wool and cotton worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water-repellent finishing liquid in S3 is a non-ionic emulsion of perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate, and the amount of perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate is 6.5-10% based on the weight of the wool and cotton worsted fabric.
6. The water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of wool-cotton worsted fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that the padding rate of padding finishing in S3 is 80-90%, and the reaction temperature of perfluoroalkyl polyacrylate water-repellent finishing liquid is 40-45 ℃.
7. The water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of wool-cotton worsted fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that the baking temperature in S3 is 140-150 ℃.
8. The water-repellent crease-resistant finishing method of wool-cotton worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the reduction treatment liquid further comprises diglycolic acid; the weight of the worsted wool-cotton fabric is taken as a reference, and the dosage of diglycolic acid is 0.2-0.8% o.w.f.
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WO2022180341A1 (en) * | 2021-02-26 | 2022-09-01 | Induo | Method for manufacturing a functionalised dyed textile, use of a bleaching solution to increase the durability of a chemical functionalisation on a dyed textile, and dyed textile |
FR3120238A1 (en) * | 2021-02-26 | 2022-09-02 | Induo | HYDROPHOBIC COTTON TEXTILE AND METHOD FOR MAKING FUNCTIONALIZED DYED TEXTILE |
CN113584890A (en) * | 2021-06-18 | 2021-11-02 | 吴江市南麻恒兴丝织厂 | Preparation method of anti-wrinkle wool fabric |
CN114045677B (en) * | 2021-11-29 | 2022-12-30 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | Fabric crease-resistant finishing agent and application thereof |
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