CN111840176A - 一种具有抗糖基化、美白、祛斑、祛皱作用的美容组合物及其应用 - Google Patents
一种具有抗糖基化、美白、祛斑、祛皱作用的美容组合物及其应用 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明属于化妆品组合物技术领域，尤其涉及一种具有抗糖基化、美白、祛斑、祛皱作用的美容组合物及其应用。该美容组合物包括以下重量份数的组分：酵母发酵产物提取物：0.4～5份；褐藻提取物：0.5～5份；鱼腥草提取物：0.5～5份；菜蓟叶提取物：0.7～5份；美白剂：2.4～75份；辅助剂：10.2～239份；水：8000～10000份。本发明提出的美容组合物中采用了酵母发酵产物提取物以及褐藻提取物、鱼腥草提取物、菜蓟叶提取物，此类天然提取物含有的活性成分，能够有效降低AGEs的形成，保护肌肤受到糖基化作用的伤害。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品组合物技术领域，尤其涉及一种具有抗糖基化、美白、祛斑、祛皱作用的美容组合物及其应用。
背景技术
皮肤的抗衰老治疗一直是人们研究的焦点之一。有关衰老的途机理很多，而且每个机理都或多或少地解释了一些人体衰老的现象。通过对市场上一些知名品牌抗衰老化妆品的调研，发现目前市场上的抗衰老化妆品延缓衰老的途径主要集中在三个大的方面：(1)清除过量的活性氧自由基；(2)促进细胞的新陈代谢；(3)补充皮肤中的胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白。虽然这三大途径可以解决衰老皮肤的大部分问题，但还有许多需要加强的方面，如改善皮肤暗沉，减少皮肤疲劳痕迹，祛除黄斑、老年斑等，在这些方面通过抑制非酶糖基化反应可以达到很好的效果。
目前已知糖基化反应发生在皮肤衰老过程中，产生的糖基化终端产物(AdvancedGlycation End-products，AGE)引起皮肤发黄，皮肤产生疲劳痕迹，造成衰老的表征。皮肤AGE含量随着年龄增长在体内积聚增多。市售的针对抑制非酶糖基化反应达到抗衰老的化妆品较少，因此有必要研发一种通过抑制非酶糖基化反应减少AGE的产生，达到改善皮肤暗沉、美白、祛斑、祛皱和延缓衰老效果的抗衰老化妆品组合物。
发明内容
为解决上述技术问题，本发明的目的是提供一种具有抗糖基化、美白、祛斑、祛皱作用的美容组合物及其应用，该美容组合物能够达到改善皮肤暗沉、美白、祛斑、祛皱和延缓衰老的效果。
本发明的第一个目的是提出抗糖基化、美白、祛斑、祛皱作用的美容组合物，包括以下重量份数的组分：
酵母发酵产物提取物：0.4～5份；
褐藻提取物：0.5～5份；
鱼腥草提取物：0.5～5份；
菜蓟叶提取物：0.7～5份；
魁蒿叶提取物：0.5～5份；
美白剂：2.4～75份；
辅助剂：10.2～239份；
水：8000～10000份。
进一步的，所述美白剂包括抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠、曲酸、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、乳酸、烟酰胺中的一种或多种。
进一步的，所述辅助剂包括以下重量份数的组分：
保湿剂：1.2～29份；
皮肤调理剂：6.1～128份；
稳定剂：0.4～16份；
乳化剂：0.3～10份；
增稠剂：0.8～6份；
表面活性剂：1.4～50份。
进一步的，所述保湿剂包括甘油、糖基海藻糖、透明质酸钠中的一种或多种。
进一步的，所述皮肤调理剂包括麦芽糖、环糊精、α-葡聚糖寡糖、泛醇、水解酵母蛋白、角鲨烷、生育酚乙酸酯、黄原胶、银耳多糖、棕榈酰五肽-4中的一种或多种。
进一步的，所述稳定剂为丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物。
进一步的，所述乳化剂为山梨坦椰油酸酯。
进一步的，所述增稠剂为聚丙烯酰胺。
进一步的，所述表面活性剂包括植物甾醇米糠油酸酯、月桂醇聚醚-7中的一种或多种。
进一步的，所述美容组合物，包括以下重量份数的组分：
甘油0.1～6份、糖基海藻糖0.5～8份、抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠0.3～6份、曲酸0.8～20份、透明质酸钠0.6～15份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.2～10份、乳酸0.3～9份、α-葡聚糖寡糖0.9～12份、麦芽糖0.5～10份、环糊精0.5～10份、酵母发酵产物提取物0.4～5份、褐藻提取物0.5～5份、鱼腥草提取物0.5～5份、泛醇0.3～5份、水解酵母蛋白0.6～10份、菜蓟叶提取物0.7～5份、魁蒿叶提取物0.5～5份、烟酰胺0.8～30份、植物甾醇米糠油酸酯0.9～40份、角鲨烷0.5～8份、山梨坦椰油酸酯0.3～10份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.4～16份、生育酚乙酸酯0.5～9份、聚丙烯酰胺0.8～6份、月桂醇聚醚-7 0.5～10份、黄原胶0.8～18份、银耳多糖0.9～30份、棕榈酰五肽-4 0.6～16份，水：8000～10000份。
本发明的第二个目的是提出上述美容组合物的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将美白剂、麦芽糖、环糊精分别溶解；
(2)将美白剂溶液和环糊精溶液混合，加热至60℃混合均匀，冷却至室温；
(3)在步骤(2)的基础上加入麦芽糖溶液及其他组分，混合均匀。
本发明的第三个目的是提出上述美容组合物在制备化妆水、乳液、精华液、膏、面霜、面膜的至少一种化妆品剂型中的应用。
借由上述方案，本发明至少具有以下优点：
(1)本发明提出的美容组合物中采用了酵母发酵产物提取物以及褐藻提取物、鱼腥草提取物、菜蓟叶提取物，此类天然提取物含有的活性成分，能够有效降低AGEs的形成，保护肌肤受到糖基化作用的伤害。
酵母发酵产物提取物中含有部分寡糖，可以活化机体细胞，阻止皮肤粗糙；含有多种有机酸，分子量小，具有超强的渗透力，能快速渗透皮肤，促进表皮细胞活化与更新，避免不正常的角质堆积。能促进胶原蛋白生成，对于弹性纤维的更新与肌底物质的形成也有助益，进而增加皮肤弹性。
褐藻提取物成分主要是海藻胶、维生素、氨基酸等，是天然的保湿柔润剂，能促进细胞再生，具有强化皮肤新陈代谢的功能，有独特的去角质的作用，能使皮肤更新，防止皱纹产生的作用。
鱼腥草提取物来源于鱼腥草，提取物中含有挥发油和槲皮素、芸香甙等组分，具有清热解毒和清痈排脓的功效。其中，槲皮素等组分能够与一含氨基物质混合，从而抑制该含氨基物质与糖类进行糖基化作用。
菜蓟叶提取物具有抗炎、舒缓抗敏的功效。
魁蒿叶提取物具有抗衰老的作用，同时具有消炎、抗过敏的功效。
(2)本发明辅以抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠、曲酸、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、乳酸、烟酰胺等美白剂，在抗糖基化、延缓衰老的基础上，进一步达到美白、祛斑、祛皱的功效，而其中抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠、烟酰胺不但可以消除自由基，同时还能抑制AGEs的形成，帮助其他抗氧化剂发生作用。
(3)曲酸可抑制人体内的酪氨酸酶活性，从而控制皮肤的色素沉淀，是一种特效美白成分。
(4)环糊精分子形状为内部疏水，外部亲水的略成锥桶状的空腔结构。环糊精的独特结构使它们能够与多种物质形成主-客结构或形成包接复含物。环糊精与美白剂复合后，改变了美白剂分子的理化和生物特性，可以使美白剂分子免受外界环境中光、氧等影响，提高其稳定性，增强美白、祛斑、祛皱的功效。
(5)角鲨烷为最接近人体皮脂的一种脂类，亲和力强，能够与人类自身的皮脂膜融为一体，在皮肤表面形成一层天然的屏障。还能抑制皮肤脂质的过氧化，能有效渗透入肌肤，并促进皮肤基底细胞的增殖，对延缓皮肤老化，改善并消除黄褐斑均有明显的生理效果。
(6)黄原胶能够缓解皮肤干燥、抗氧化以及去除面部皱纹。
(7)银耳多糖是一种从银耳中提取得到的水溶性的高分子聚合物，也是植物类提取透明质酸中唯一分子量过百万的多糖，具有很好的润滑性。能够抑制细胞脂质的过氧化反应，从而防止皮肤的老化；促进弹性细胞生长；减少UV对皮肤的伤害；活化表皮细胞，修复光损皮肤；加快皮肤再生；消皱去皱。
(8)棕榈酰五肽-4即N2-(1-氧代十六烷基)-L-赖氨酰-L-苏氨酰-L-苏氨酰-L-赖氨酰-L-丝氨酸，棕榈酰五肽-4拥有五个氨基酸，可以刺激皮肤基质的关键部件的合成胶原蛋白等。
具体实施方式
下面将结合实施例对本发明的实施方案进行详细描述，但是本领域技术人员将会理解，下列实施例仅用于说明本发明，而不应视为限定本发明的范围。
实施例中未注明具体条件者，按照常规条件或制造商建议的条件进行。所用试剂或仪器未注明生产厂商者，均为可以通过市购获得的常规产品。
酵母发酵产物提取物的制备方法：
将纤维素酶处理的米糠滤液、10％葡萄糖、酵母接入培养基中，在27-30℃震荡培养发酵7天，每3天补葡萄糖2％；将发酵7天后的酵母超高速离心，使酵母质壁分离，过滤去除细胞壁和不溶性分子；得到的滤液再经单效浓缩、活性炭脱色、除味，得到酵母发酵产物提取物。
褐藻提取物的制备方法：
(1)将藻类原料先用清水清洗，晾干，粉碎，混匀，加入3-5倍量的醋酸水溶液在室温下浸泡8-12h，过滤除去残渣，得到滤液；
(2)往步骤(1)中的滤液中加入5-10倍量的蒸馏水，搅拌混匀，然后进行高压提取；
(3)向将步骤(2)得到的提取液脱色、过滤，将滤液以转速5000-10000r/min离心10-20min，取上清液，经过过滤、浓缩，得到褐藻提取物。
鱼腥草提取物的制备方法：
将鱼腥草粉碎、过筛，加入10-20倍的体积浓度为75％-85％的乙醇，然后在35-45℃条件下浸泡7-9小时，进行低温超声萃取5-7小时，取上清离心、过滤、回流乙醇，最后经二次过滤后，即可获得鱼腥草提取物。
菜蓟叶提取物的制备方法：
将菜蓟叶粉碎、过筛，加入10-20倍的体积浓度为75％-85％的乙醇，然后在35-45℃条件下浸泡7-9小时，进行低温超声萃取5-7小时，取上清离心、过滤、回流乙醇，最后经二次过滤后，即可获得菜蓟叶提取物。
魁蒿叶提取物的制备方法：
进行超声萃取，将粉碎的魁蒿叶与乙醇以体积比1:10混合，在40℃超声振荡6小时，经过固液分离、浓缩，得到魁蒿叶提取物。
实施例1：
本实施例中的美容组合物为精华液，由以下重量份数的组分组成：
甘油3份、糖基海藻糖5份、抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2份、曲酸12份、透明质酸钠4份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷6份、乳酸5份、α-葡聚糖寡糖6份、麦芽糖10份、环糊精10份、酵母发酵产物提取物4份、褐藻提取物5份、鱼腥草提取物5份、泛醇2份、水解酵母蛋白5份、菜蓟叶提取物4份、魁蒿叶提取物5份、烟酰胺15份、植物甾醇米糠油酸酯35份、角鲨烷7份、山梨坦椰油酸酯7份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物14份、生育酚乙酸酯5份、聚丙烯酰胺3份、月桂醇聚醚-7 6份、黄原胶11份、银耳多糖16份、棕榈酰五肽-4 13份，水：8000份。
按照以下步骤制备：
(1)将美白剂、麦芽糖、环糊精分别溶解；
(2)将美白剂溶液和环糊精溶液混合，加热至60℃混合均匀，冷却至室温；
(3)在步骤(2)的基础上加入麦芽糖溶液及其他水相组分，在75～80℃搅拌30min，混合均匀，降至室温；
(4)将剩余油相组分加入乳化剂，在85℃搅拌混合，并均质3-5min，加入步骤(3)的组分，均质10～15min，混合均匀；
(5)恒温搅拌消泡10min后，降至室温，加入酵母发酵产物提取物、褐藻提取物、鱼腥草提取物、菜蓟叶提取物、魁蒿叶提取物，充分搅拌均匀后出料。
实施例2：
测试效果
(1)使用后皮肤含水量评价：
测试方法：受试者测试当天早上不可以使用任何化妆品。用清水清洁完面部后，在温度25.0℃±1.0℃，湿度50％±5％的恒温恒湿间休息30分钟，30分钟后，对面部进行仪器测试。测试完成后对受试者进行使用说明，受试者听取说明后，每天早晚各使用1次，持续使用8周实验样品。受试者按照试验的指示在产品连用4周后进行会场回访，进行面部测试。
受试者人群数目：选取240名年龄在18-35岁的健康女性受试者，随机分成8组，每组30人，其中4组使用实施例1的样品，其余4组使用市售的同类型产品，作为对比例1。
测试方法：
皮肤含水量(水分测试探头Corneometer CM825)：数值越大，则皮肤水分含量越高，即样品的保湿效果越好。测试部位：脸颊，测量3次取平均值。
水分流失率(水分流失探头TEWL Tewameter TM300)：反映皮肤屏障功能的重要参数，所测得数值越低，则皮肤的屏障功能和修复能力越好。测试部位：脸颊，测量3次取平均值。
皮肤光泽度变化率(皮肤光泽度测试探头Glossymeter GL200)：数值越高，则皮肤光泽度越好。测试部位：脸颊，测量3次取平均值。
测试结果：
| 测试项目 | 实施例1 | 对比例1 |
| 皮肤含水量 | 66％ | 50％ |
| 水分流失率 | -32％ | -22％ |
| 皮肤光泽度变化率 | 30％ | 18％ |
(2)皮肤皱纹测试
用Primos评价皮肤皱纹状况。选取100名年龄在35-45岁的健康女性受试者，使用实施例1的产品。将产品涂抹于面部，长期使用后皮肤皱纹数量有所减少，4周时与基础值(使用前)相比差异有统计学意义(P＜0.05)。
| 时间 | 皱纹数量 |
| 使用前 | 45.55±20.88 |
| 2周 | 44.35±19.18 |
| 4周 | 35.01±15.76 |
(3)皮肤糖基化终产物AGE的含量测定
本测定的受试人群为40-50岁的女性50名，皮肤健康无损伤，分为2组，一组测试实施例1的产品，另一组测试市售同类型的产品，作为对比例2。将实施例1的产品施用于受试者手臂内侧，每日两次共八周。在受试前和结束后，由技术人员使用糖基化终产物检测仪AUTO-FLUORESCENCE READER仪测定实验部位皮肤中AGE的含量，每点测定五次，取平均值。
| 测试材料 | 初始测试均值 | 八周后测试均值 |
| 实施例1 | 1.815 | 1.683 |
| 对比例2 | 1.792 | 2.015 |
从测试结果可知，对比例2样品的受试者在使用8周后，皮肤的AGE含量均有增加，而使用实施例1样品的受试者皮肤的AGE含量明显下降，说明本产品能充分发挥其抗非酶糖基化反应的作用，具有优异的抗衰老功能。
虽然本发明已以较佳实施例公开如上，但其并非用以限定本发明，任何熟悉此技术的人，在不脱离本发明的精神和范围内，都可做各种的改动与修饰，因此本发明的保护范围应该以权利要求书所界定的为准。
Claims (10)
1.一种具有抗糖基化、美白、祛斑、祛皱作用的美容组合物，其特征在于：包括以下重量份数的组分：
酵母发酵产物提取物：0.4～5份；
褐藻提取物：0.5～5份；
鱼腥草提取物：0.5～5份；
菜蓟叶提取物：0.7～5份；
魁蒿叶提取物：0.5～5份；
美白剂：2.4～75份；
辅助剂：10.2～239份；
水：8000～10000份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的美容组合物，其特征在于：所述美白剂包括抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠、曲酸、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、乳酸、烟酰胺中的一种或多种。
3.根据权利要求1所述的美容组合物，其特征在于：所述辅助剂包括以下重量份数的组分：
保湿剂：1.2～29份；
皮肤调理剂：6.1～128份；
稳定剂：0.4～16份；
乳化剂：0.3～10份；
增稠剂：0.8～6份；
表面活性剂：1.4～50份。
4.根据权利要求3所述的美容组合物，其特征在于：所述保湿剂包括甘油、糖基海藻糖、透明质酸钠中的一种或多种。
5.根据权利要求3所述的美容组合物，其特征在于：所述皮肤调理剂包括麦芽糖、环糊精、α-葡聚糖寡糖、泛醇、水解酵母蛋白、角鲨烷、生育酚乙酸酯、黄原胶、银耳多糖、棕榈酰五肽-4中的一种或多种。
6.根据权利要求3所述的美容组合物，其特征在于：所述稳定剂为丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，所述乳化剂为山梨坦椰油酸酯。
7.根据权利要求3所述的美容组合物，其特征在于：所述增稠剂为聚丙烯酰胺，所述表面活性剂包括植物甾醇米糠油酸酯、月桂醇聚醚-7中的一种或多种。
8.根据权利要求1所述的美容组合物，其特征在于：包括以下重量份数的组分：
甘油0.1～6份、糖基海藻糖0.5～8份、抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠0.3～6份、曲酸0.8～20份、透明质酸钠0.6～15份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷0.2～10份、乳酸0.3～9份、α-葡聚糖寡糖0.9～12份、麦芽糖0.5～10份、环糊精0.5～10份、酵母发酵产物提取物0.4～5份、褐藻提取物0.5～5份、鱼腥草提取物0.5～5份、泛醇0.3～5份、水解酵母蛋白0.6～10份、菜蓟叶提取物0.7～5份、魁蒿叶提取物0.5～5份、烟酰胺0.8～30份、植物甾醇米糠油酸酯0.9～40份、角鲨烷0.5～8份、山梨坦椰油酸酯0.3～10份、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.4～16份、生育酚乙酸酯0.5～9份、聚丙烯酰胺0.8～6份、月桂醇聚醚-7 0.5～10份、黄原胶0.8～18份、银耳多糖0.9～30份、棕榈酰五肽-4 0.6～16份，水：8000～10000份。
9.权利要求1-8任一项所述的美容组合物的制备方法，其特征在于：包括以下步骤：
(1)将美白剂、麦芽糖、环糊精分别溶解；
(2)将美白剂溶液和环糊精溶液混合，加热至60℃混合均匀，冷却至室温；
(3)在步骤(2)的基础上加入麦芽糖溶液及其他组分，混合均匀。
10.权利要求1-8任一项所述的美容组合物在制备化妆水、乳液、精华液、膏、面霜、面膜的至少一种化妆品剂型中的应用。
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