CN111278315A

CN111278315A - Waterproof seam structure

Info

Publication number: CN111278315A
Application number: CN201880070511.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 冈西祥臣; 森雄一郎
Original assignee: Onward Holdings Co Ltd
Current assignee: Onward Holdings Co Ltd
Priority date: 2017-12-19
Filing date: 2018-08-29
Publication date: 2020-06-12
Also published as: JP2019108650A; WO2019123724A1; TW201928141A

Abstract

Provided is a waterproof seam structure capable of sewing two combined fabric pieces by flat sewing in the same manner as in the conventional case when a garment or the like is manufactured using a waterproof or water-repellent fabric. The 1 st fabric (1) with water resistance or water repellency and the 2 nd fabric (2) with water resistance or water repellency are sewed by a flat seam (3), the upper thread (31) of the flat seam is a fibril with stretchability and water repellency, the bottom thread (32) of the flat seam is a wool-like processing thread with water repellency, more than 15 needle holes are sewed every 3cm, and the seam edge adopts a butt seam.

Description

Waterproof seam structure

Technical Field

The invention relates to a waterproof seam structure of clothes.

Background

Conventionally, there have been manufactured clothes requiring waterproofness, such as rain gear for mountain climbing and waterproof work clothes, and studies have been made on these clothes to prevent water from entering the clothes from stitching.

For example, japanese patent application laid-open No. 8-92868 (patent document 1) discloses the following technique: when a garment is produced using a waterproof fabric in which thermoplastic resin coatings are laminated on a fiber base fabric, the ends of two pieces of waterproof fabric are overlapped so that the thermoplastic resin coating layers face each other, a1 st hot-melt sealing material is arranged between the overlapped pieces of waterproof fabric and flat-seamed, one piece of waterproof fabric is folded back along a seam line, a 2 nd hot-melt sealing material is arranged in a folded-back portion, and the folded-back piece of waterproof fabric, the 2 nd hot-melt sealing material, the seam edge of the folded-back waterproof fabric, the 1 st hot-melt sealing material, and the other piece of waterproof fabric are sewn together with a welt (i.e., a seam for pressing the seam edge), and then the sewn portion is pressure-welded using a high-frequency welding machine.

Further, japanese patent laying-open No. 9-41208 (patent document 2) discloses the following technique: when a garment is produced using a resin-uncoated water-repellent fabric (resin-uncoated fabric), two fabrics are sewn together by a flat seam, the sewn ends are laid down in one direction, the edges are fixed by a reinforcing seam (Japanese: press え through い meshes), and a caulking tape is bonded so as to cover the sewn portion; and the caulking tape comprises a skin resin film formed of a high melting point resin and an adhesive resin film formed of a low melting point resin.

Further, japanese patent application laid-open No. 7-216727 (patent document 3) discloses the following technology: when sewing two pieces of waterproof cloth, the sewing end of one piece of cloth A is folded back, the sewing end of the other piece of cloth B is inserted into the folded back part, the overlapped part is sewed in a state of three pieces being overlapped, the cloth A is folded back in a Z shape in a direction opposite to the direction of the folded back of the sewing end, and the overlapped part is sewed in a state of four pieces being overlapped.

Documents of the prior art

Patent document

Patent document 1: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 8-92868

Patent document 2: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 9-41208

Patent document 3: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 7-216727

Disclosure of Invention

Problems to be solved by the invention

The method disclosed in patent document 1 is premised on the use of a waterproof fabric obtained by laminating a thermoplastic resin film on a fiber base fabric, and is not applicable to the use of a fabric with no resin coating.

Further, the 1 st hot-melt sealing material and the 2 nd hot-melt sealing material are finally pressure-melted using an induction heat sealer, but the pressure-melted hot-melt sealing material may overflow from the stitches and be seen from the outside and the inside of the clothes. In particular, if the 1 st hot-melt sealing material disposed between two waterproof fabrics overflows from the flat-seamed portion, it is seen from the outside of the garment, which is a problem. In addition, the 1 st hot-melt sealing material and the 2 nd hot-melt sealing material may overflow from the hem and may be seen from the back side of the garment.

In addition, the method disclosed in the patent document 1 has the following problems: the 2 nd hot-melt sealing material was disposed on the sewn portion (hemming) of the waterproof fabric a1, and then the waterproof fabric a1 was folded back, and the 2 nd hot-melt sealing material was fixed to the waterproof fabric a1 with a sewing thread, but when the waterproof fabric a1 was folded back, the 2 nd hot-melt sealing material was not fixed at any position, and therefore, a positional deviation occurred.

Further, when the portion to be sewn of the waterproof fabric is curved, it is difficult to fold the waterproof fabric a1 well, and the 2 nd hot-melt sealing material is displaced, so that the curved end portion cannot be sewn in practice. In the sewing process of clothes, the curved end portions of the respective fabrics are often sewn, and particularly, the armhole portions are curved end portions, and therefore, the method disclosed in the above-mentioned patent document 1 cannot be applied.

The method disclosed in patent document 2 is applicable to a case where a resin-uncoated fabric is used, but has the following problems: since the calking tape is adhered so as to cover the sewn part, the calking tape is adhered to the whole sewn part as seen from the back side of the garment, and the appearance is poor as if the patch cloth is applied, unlike the normal garment.

The sewing method disclosed in the patent document 3 has the following problems: the finished seam is constructed in a four-piece overlapping structure, so that the sewn portion is thick, giving a thick feel, and the clothing feels poor to wear, and the appearance is not good. Further, since the end portion is folded back and sewn, there is also a problem that it is difficult to sew the curved portion.

The present invention has been made to solve the conventional problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide a waterproof seam structure capable of sewing two pieces of combined fabric by a flat car (flat seam) in the same manner as in the conventional art when clothes or the like are manufactured using waterproof or water-repellent fabric, and to provide a seam structure in which a waterproof function is not impaired even if decorative stitches or reinforcing stitches are provided in parallel with the flat seam for sewing the fabric of clothes or the like.

The present invention aims to provide a seam structure which is suitable for curved sewing and has the same form as that of a normal garment or the like both when viewed from the outside of the garment or the like and when viewed from the inside of the garment or the like. It is another object of the present invention to provide a cloth product such as clothes, umbrellas, and tents having such a sewn structure.

Means for solving the problems

According to the present invention, the above object is achieved by a waterproof seam structure characterized in that a first fabric 1 having water repellency or water repellency and a second fabric 2 having water repellency or water repellency are sewn together by a flat seam, the upper thread of the flat seam is a filament having stretchability and water repellency, the lower thread of the flat seam is a wool-like processed thread having water repellency, 15 or more stitches are sewn per 3cm, and the seam edges are sewn by a set back seam (japanese: cut し).

According to the present invention, the above object is achieved by a waterproof seam structure characterized in that a1 st fabric having water repellency or water repellency and a 2 nd fabric having water repellency or water repellency are sewn together by a flat seam, a face thread of the flat seam is a filament having stretchability and water repellency, a ground thread of the flat seam is a wool-like processed thread having water repellency, 15 or more stitches are sewn per 3cm, a welt is a set back seam, and a decorative stitch is sewn to the welt portion. The upper thread of the decorative stitch is a filament with stretchability and water repellency, the bottom thread of the decorative stitch is a wool-like processing thread with water repellency, 8-14 stitches are sewn every 3cm, and the decorative stitch is sewn in a mode that the upper thread is shown on the surface side of a cloth product.

In addition, the object is achieved by a cloth product having the above-described seam structure.

ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION

According to the present invention, the 1 st fabric having water repellency or water repellency and the 2 nd fabric having water repellency or water repellency are sewn together by flat sewing, and in the flat sewing, the following four constituent elements are combined, whereby a sufficient water repellency effect is obtained:

(a) using filaments having stretchability and having water repellency as face threads;

(b) using the wool-like processing line with water repellency as a bottom line;

(c) the needle is sewed with more than 15 stitches per 3 cm;

(d) the seam edge adopts a reverse seam.

In the combination of the filament yarn having stretchability and water repellency as the upper thread and the wool-like processed yarn having water repellency as the lower thread, the intersection between the upper thread and the lower thread is brought closer to the upper thread side by sewing with a normal sewing machine. (in the case where the upper thread is a normal sewing thread having no stretchability, such a state does not occur.)

Further, the needle hole formed in the fabric on the upper thread side is clogged with the upper thread and the wool-like processing thread having a rich feeling. Since both the upper thread and the lower thread blocking the pinholes have water repellency, water can be prevented from entering the inside of the clothes or the like from the pinholes on the upper thread side.

Further, by sewing 15 or more stitches per 3cm in a needle-transport density and performing back-stitching of the stitched edges, water can be prevented from entering the inside of clothes or the like from between the stitches (stitches).

In addition, in the case where the decorative stitch (reinforcement stitch) is sewn to the hem portion, the decorative stitch can also obtain a sufficient waterproof effect by combining the following four constituent elements:

(e) setting the face thread as a filament having stretchability and having water repellency;

(f) setting the bottom line as a wool-like processing line with water repellency;

(g) the needle is sewed with 8 to 14 stitches per 3 cm;

(h) sewing in a mode that the upper thread of the decorative stitch is presented on the surface side of the cloth product.

In the decorative stitch, a piece of cloth on the front side is sewn to two pieces of cloth on the hem, and the filament having stretchability and water repellency is set as the face thread and the ground thread is set as the wool-like processing thread having water repellency, so that the intersection of the face thread and the ground thread is close to the face thread side, and the needle hole formed in the cloth on the face thread side is blocked by the face thread and the wool-like processing thread, as in the case of the flat sewing. In this case, the decorative stitch is sewn with 8 to 14 stitches per 3cm in such a manner that the length of the stitch (stitch) is longer than that of the flat-sewn stitch (stitch). By reducing the number of pinholes, the risk of damaging the waterproofing function is reduced.

According to the present invention, the waterproof seam structure can be sewn by a general sewing machine without requiring any special measures, and even if the waterproof seam structure is a curved seam, a clean seam can be obtained. Further, since a waterproof tape or the like is not used, a manufacturing process of a cloth product such as clothes is simple, and the cloth product can be manufactured at low cost.

The clothes having the waterproof seam structure of the present invention has a good wearing feeling similar to that of ordinary clothes without giving a thick feeling at the seam portion.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a plan view showing a state where two sheets of cloth are sewn together by a flat seam.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged cross-sectional view schematically showing a portion of the seam surrounded by a circle in fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a plan view showing a state in which the cloth shown in fig. 1 is back-sewn.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged sectional view of the structure shown in fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the structure shown in fig. 3, in which a decorative stitch is sewn.

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the structure of fig. 5 as viewed from the back side.

Fig. 7 is an enlarged cross-sectional view of the structure shown in fig. 5.

Fig. 8 is an enlarged cross-sectional view similar to fig. 2 schematically showing a seam of a decorative stitch.

Detailed Description

The waterproof sewn structure of the present invention is composed of two pieces of cloth, an upper thread and a lower thread, and can be applied to sewing of two pieces of cloth products requiring waterproofness or water repellency, such as clothes, bags, hats, umbrellas, tents, sleeping bags, and the like.

The fabric used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has water repellency or water repellency, and conventional fabrics used for rainwear, windcheaters, and the like can be used. For example, a high-density woven fabric, a fabric obtained by subjecting a fabric to water repellent treatment or water repellent treatment, a fabric obtained by coating a base fabric with a synthetic resin, a fabric obtained by forming a synthetic resin coating layer on a base fabric by lamination, or the like can be used.

In the present invention, the thread used for the upper thread of the flat seam and the decorative stitch is a filament having stretchability and having water repellency. Various kinds of filaments having stretchability are commercially available, but a yarn having stretchability with an elongation of 25% to 40% is preferable as the upper thread of the present invention. Further, a thread formed by twisting after water repellent processing in the state of a filament is preferable because it has good water repellency and durable water repellency.

In the present invention, the thread used for the ground thread of the flat-seam and decorative stitch is a wool-like processed thread having water repellency (i.e., fluffy processed thread). In the present invention, the wool-like processing thread does not use a thread having high stretchability, but uses a thread having low stretchability, and the elongation is 25% to 40%, preferably about the same elongation as the upper thread.

In terms of ease of sewing, it is preferable that the upper thread has substantially the same thickness (dtex) as the lower thread. Further, if the yarn thickness is the same, the yarn looks thin in appearance (appearance), and the wool-like processed yarn looks thick due to bulkiness and softness.

The sewing thread and the decorative thread may be of the same thickness, or the sewing thread and the decorative thread may be of different thicknesses, for example, the decorative thread may be of a thicker thickness.

In the sewing of the present invention, the needle for the flat sewing has 15 or more stitches per 3cm, and the decorative stitch has 8 to 14 stitches per 3 cm. The sewing needle preferably has a tip with a round tip (japanese: ボールポイント) and an elongated tip (japanese: スリムポイント).

The stitch structure of the present invention will be described in detail below based on the embodiments shown in the drawings.

Fig. 1 to 4 show a1 st embodiment of the stitch structure of the present invention.

As shown in fig. 1, a1 st fabric 1 having water repellency or water repellency and a 2 nd fabric 2 having water repellency or water repellency are overlapped with each other so that their surfaces face each other, and the ends of the

fabrics

1 and 2 are sewn (i.e., flat-seamed) with a sewing machine to form a seam 3. In fig. 1, reference numeral 1b denotes the back surface of the 1 st fabric 1, and reference numeral 2a denotes the front surface of the 2 nd fabric 2.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged cross-sectional view schematically showing a portion of the seam 3 surrounded by a circle in fig. 1, and the upper thread 31 and the lower thread 32 intersect to form the seam. In the case of sewing with a general sewing machine, the adjustment is performed such that the intersection 30 is located at the middle of the thickness of the

cloth

1, 2. In the case of the present invention, although sewing is performed by a sewing machine which is normally adjusted as described above, since the upper thread 31 uses a filament having stretchability and the lower thread 32 uses a wool-like processing thread, even if the elongation is the same, the wool-like processing thread 32 is pulled by the stretchable filament due to the fact that the restoring force of the stretchability of the filament is higher than the restoring force of the stretchability of the wool-like processing thread, and the intersection 30 of the two is brought closer to the upper thread side. In this way, the wool-like processing thread 32 is positioned in the vicinity of the needle hole on the surface thread side, and the wool-like processing thread 32 is tensioned during sewing, but is not tensioned after sewing, and therefore, a state of crimping is exhibited, and the needle hole is closed.

Next, as shown in fig. 3, the overlapped

fabrics

1 and 2 are back-stitched in a state where the hem 11 of the fabric 1 and the hem 21 of the fabric 2 are overlapped at the flat-stitched (sewn) portion 3. In this way, the

front sides

1a and 2a of the

fabrics

1 and 2 do not have the flat-seamed seam 3. Therefore, water penetration in the direction of arrow a in fig. 3 may be prevented, but in the present invention, since the upper thread 31 and the lower thread 32 both use a thread having stretchability, the

fabrics

1, 2 are sewn without a gap. Further, since the stitches of the flush joint are made dense, water does not enter between the stitches, and water can be completely prevented. In addition, in order to easily understand the sewing state, although a gap is provided between the cloth 1 and the cloth 2 in fig. 4, such a gap is not generated in an actual stitch structure.

The water leakage resistance test of the above-described stitches was carried out in the following manner.

The human body model was pasted with test paper (filter paper). The clothes sewn by the seam structure of the present invention were put on the manikin, and rainfall was performed for 20 minutes from 130cm of the upper portion of the manikin by an artificial rainfall device at a rainfall of 20 ± 2 mm/h.

After rainfall, the clothes were taken off and the filter paper inside was observed to be wet, and it was confirmed that water was not transferred to the filter paper.

Fig. 5 to 8 show a stitch structure 2 according to the present invention.

This embodiment is of the following construction: the flush-stitching is performed as in example 1, and after the backstitches of the hems 11, 12 are performed, the decorative stitch 4 is sewn.

In the present invention, as shown in fig. 5, the decorative stitch 4 is sewn from the front side 1a of the fabric 1 and the front side 2a of the fabric 2 in a state where the hem 21 is not visible. In the decorative stitch 4, as in the case of the flat seam, the upper thread 41 uses a filament having stretchability, and the lower thread 42 uses a wool-like processed thread. Even if the elongation is of the same degree, the elastic recovery force of the filament is higher than the elastic recovery force of the wool-like processed yarn, so that the wool-like processed yarn 42 is pulled by the tensile filament 41, and the intersection 40 of the two is brought closer to the surface yarn side. In this way, the wool-like processing thread 42 is positioned in the vicinity of the needle hole on the surface thread side, and the wool-like processing thread 42 is in a state of being curled and closed since tension is applied during sewing but not applied after sewing. Therefore, as shown in fig. 7 and 8, although pinholes are present on the front side 1a of the fabric 1, the pinholes are blocked by the filaments 41 having water repellency and the wool-like processing lines 42 having water repellency, and therefore, water can be prevented from entering from the pinholes. In addition, fig. 7 is drawn like fig. 4 as providing a gap between the cloth 1 and the cloth 2 for easy understanding of the sewn state, but the actual stitch structure does not generate such a gap.

Specific examples of the use line in the present invention are shown below.

Upper thread of plain stitch and decorative stitch: water repellent processed yarn of nylon having elongation of 30% and thickness of 245dtex in "レジロン F" of フジックス K.K., and 100% of raw material

Base line of plain and decorative stitches: water repellent processed yarn of polyester having elongation of 28% and thickness of 255dtex in "ウーリー S" of フジックス K.K., 100% as raw material

Description of the reference numerals

1. Distributing; 2. distributing; 3. flat sewing; 4. decorating the stitch; 5. 2, stitching; 6. overedging; 11. hemming of the fabric 1; 21. hemming of the fabric 2; 1a, the surface of the cloth 1; 1b, the back of the cloth 1; 2a, the surface of the cloth 2; 2b, the back of the cloth 2; 30. the intersection part of the upper thread and the bottom thread in the flat seam; 31. a flat-seamed upper thread; 32. a bottom line of the flat seam; 40. the crossing part of the upper thread and the bottom thread in the decorative stitch; 41. decorating the upper thread of the stitch; 42. decorating the bottom line of the stitch.

Claims

1. A waterproof seam structure is characterized in that,

in the waterproof seam structure, a1 st fabric having water repellency or water repellency and a 2 nd fabric having water repellency or water repellency are sewn up by a flat seam, the upper thread of the flat seam is a filament having stretchability and water repellency, the lower thread of the flat seam is a wool-like processed thread having water repellency, 15 or more stitches are formed per 3cm, and the seam edge is a butt seam.

2. A waterproof seam structure is characterized in that,

in the waterproof seam mark structure, a1 st fabric with water resistance or water repellency and a 2 nd fabric with water resistance or water repellency are sewed by a flat seam, the upper thread of the flat seam is a filament with stretchability and water repellency, the bottom thread of the flat seam is a wool-like processing thread with water repellency, more than 15 stitches are formed every 3cm, the seam edge adopts a reverse seam, a decorative seam mark is sewed on the seam edge part, the upper thread of the decorative seam mark is a filament with stretchability and water repellency, the bottom thread of the decorative seam mark is a wool-like processing thread with water repellency, 8-14 stitches are formed every 3cm, and the sewing is carried out in a mode that the upper thread of the decorative seam mark is presented on the surface side of a fabric product.

3. A cloth product is characterized in that,

the fabric article having the stitch construction of claim 1 or 2.