CN111139664A - Production process of polyester and cellulose fiber blended weft-stretch fabric - Google Patents

Production process of polyester and cellulose fiber blended weft-stretch fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111139664A
CN111139664A CN201911212070.2A CN201911212070A CN111139664A CN 111139664 A CN111139664 A CN 111139664A CN 201911212070 A CN201911212070 A CN 201911212070A CN 111139664 A CN111139664 A CN 111139664A
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Prior art keywords
fabric
solution
washing
temperature
cellulose fiber
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Inventor
肖维
肖鉴钊
林刚
张露
金峰
曹国刚
彭宇晴
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Jiaxing Dayi Textile Technology Co ltd
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Jiaxing Dayi Textile Technology Co ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a production process of a terylene and cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric, which comprises the following steps: (1) fabric selection, (2) refining, (3) singeing, (4) soaking in tea saponin working solution, (5) washing, (6) mercerizing, (7) pre-shaping, (8) dyeing, (9) soaping, (10) washing and (11) three-proofing finishing. The selected fabric comprises, by weight, 20% -30% of natural cellulose fibers, 20% -30% of regenerated cellulose fibers, 3% -5% of stretch yarns and the balance of terylene. According to the production process of the terylene and cellulose fiber blended weft-stretch fabric, the loss rate of the produced fabric in the aspects of strength and elasticity is low through improvement of refining, mercerizing, dyeing, color fixing, three-proofing finishing and the like, and the prepared fabric has good color fastness and three-proofing effect.

Description

Production process of polyester and cellulose fiber blended weft-stretch fabric
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textile fabric production, in particular to a production process of a terylene and cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric.
Background
At present, the types of polyester and cellulose fiber blended fabrics in the market are more, and mainly comprise cotton, ramie, hemp, flax, polyester viscose tencel, polyester viscose modal, polyester tencel bamboo, polyester/modified polyester/viscose and the like. The terylene comprises conventional terylene, cation dyeable terylene, bamboo charcoal fiber taking terylene as a carrier, coffee yarn, thermal yarn, cool yarn and the like, and the blended fabric has strong complementarity. When the content of the terylene is higher than 50 percent, the blended fabric can keep the fastness, crease resistance and dimensional stability of the terylene and has the characteristics of stiffness and smoothness; the addition of the viscose improves the air permeability of the fabric and improves the moisture absorption and antistatic property of the fabric; the tencel (lyocell) has excellent hygroscopicity, smooth and flying property, comfortableness and the like, and overcomes the defects of low strength, especially low wet strength, of the common viscose fiber; the modal has the softness of cotton, the luster of silk and the smoothness of hemp, and has better water absorption and air permeability than cotton, higher dye uptake and bright and full fabric color; the bamboo fiber has the characteristics of good air permeability, instant water absorption, wear resistance, dyeing property and the like, and simultaneously has the functions of natural antibiosis, bacteriostasis, mite removal, deodorization and ultraviolet resistance; the application of the novel fibers such as the bamboo charcoal fiber, the coffee fiber, the thermal inductance fiber, the cool fiber and the like enables the blended fabric to have multiple functionalities. The mixed fabric of the terylene and the regenerated cellulose fiber has the characteristics of smooth and bright fabric, bright color, strong wool shape feeling, good hand feeling elasticity, good hygroscopicity and moderate price, is a wool-like fabric with the advantages of wool fabric and chemical fiber fabric, and is a suit fabric, and is also a main fabric of convenient trousers and western-style trousers.
When the weft-elastic polyester/cellulose fiber blended fabric is dyed and subjected to after-finishing, the defects of large strength loss, low color fastness and the like of the whole fabric are caused, and the weft-direction elasticity loss of the fabric is also large.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a production process of a terylene and cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric, which can ensure that the strength loss rate of the terylene and cellulose fiber blended fabric after dyeing and after finishing is small.
In order to solve the technical problem, the invention aims to realize that:
the invention relates to a production process of a terylene and cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric, which comprises the following steps:
(1) selecting a fabric: according to the weight percentage, the selected fabric contains 20-30% of natural cellulose fiber, 20-30% of regenerated cellulose fiber, 3-5% of stretch yarn and the balance of terylene;
(2) refining: firstly, processing the fabric selected in the last step by adopting an alkaline-oxygen cold pad-batch process, wherein the alkaline-oxygen cold pad-batch process comprises the steps of padding the fabric with refining liquid at room temperature and stacking for 12-24 hours, and the liquid carrying rate after padding is 80-120%;
(3) singeing: a gas singeing machine is adopted, a fire hole is arranged in a positive-negative mode, the distance between flame and a cloth cover is 3-4cm, and the flame temperature is 800-; and extinguishing fire by adopting steam, wherein the falling temperature is not higher than 50 ℃; singeing is rated as grade 3-4;
(4) dipping tea saponin working solution: padding the fabric treated in the previous step with tea saponin working solution and then steaming; the tea saponin working solution contains 30-40g/L of tea saponin, 5-8g/L of essence, 8-12g/L of amino trimethylene phosphonic acid tetrasodium, 1-3g/L of benzotriazole and 5-8g/L of sodium ricinoleate sulfate, and the liquid carrying rate after padding the tea saponin working solution is 80-90%; the steaming temperature is 100-102 ℃, and the time is 30-40 s;
(5) washing with water: washing the fabric steamed in the last step with water, wherein the water washing is carried out in 1 st to 3 rd lattices by adopting high-temperature countercurrent steaming washing, the temperature is 85 ℃ to 90 ℃, the medium-temperature countercurrent washing is carried out in 4 th to 5 th lattices, the temperature is 75 ℃ to 80 ℃, the fabric is washed by countercurrent cold water in 6 th to 7 th lattices, and then drying is carried out;
(6) mercerizing: dipping the fabric prepared in the last step into mercerizing liquid, wherein the temperature of the mercerizing liquid is 15-25 ℃, the dipping time is 30-50s, the fabric in the mercerizing liquid is in a stretching and expanding state, the stretching length is 1-3%, and the expanding is 5-10%; soaking the mercerizing liquid, and then washing in water at the temperature of 60-80 ℃, wherein the washing time is 40-60 s; the mercerizing liquid contains 120-140g/L sodium hydroxide solution;
(7) presetting: the setting temperature is 170-175 ℃, the cloth falling temperature is not higher than 50 ℃, and the weft inclination is less than 3 percent;
(8) dyeing: padding the fabric subjected to the previous step into a disperse dye solution, fixing the color in a non-aqueous medium, and then washing and drying; the band liquid after padding the disperse dye liquor is 80-90%; fixing color in non-aqueous medium at 90-100 deg.C for 5-10 s;
the disperse dye solution contains 3-5% o.w.f of disperse dye microcapsules, 1-2g/L of a disperse leveling agent, 1.5-3g/L of alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether phosphate, 25-35g/L of sodium sulfate and a penetrating agent JFC4-6 g/L;
then padding the dried fabric with 5-10% of fatty acid methyl ester ethoxylate sodium sulfonate solution and reactive dye liquor in sequence, fixing color in a non-aqueous medium, and then washing, soaping and drying; the liquid carrying rate after padding is 80-90%; the color fixing temperature in a non-aqueous medium is 100-105 ℃, and the color fixing time is 10-15 s;
the reactive dye solution contains 1-5 o.w.f% of reactive dye, 10-20g/L of dispersing agent and 10-10 g/L of peregal O5; the dispersant is hydroxy ethylidene diphosphonic acid or quaternary ammonium salt cationic compound;
(9) soaping: soaping the fabric obtained in the last step in a soaping solution at the temperature of 90-95 ℃; the soaping liquid contains 0.5-1% of soaping agent EA-265 and 5-8g/L of anionic color fixing agent;
(10) washing with water: washing the fabric obtained in the last step in water at 50-60 ℃ and drying to obtain a water content of not higher than 3%;
(11) three-proofing finishing: padding the fabric subjected to the last step with a three-proofing finishing liquid, baking on a shaping device, and cropping after cooling the fabric;
(12) pre-shrinking: the moisture content of the sprayed fabric is 10-12%, the pressure of a pressure bearing roller is 0.10-0.15MPa, the pressure of a drying cylinder is 0.1MPa, and the pressure of the pressure bearing roller is 2-3 kg.
As a further explanation of the above scheme, the stretch yarn is spandex yarn or T400 stretch yarn; the cellulose fiber is natural cellulose fiber or regenerated cellulose fiber; the natural cellulose fiber is hemp fiber, flax fiber, ramie fiber or cotton fiber, and the regenerated cellulose fiber is tencel, richcel or modal.
As a further explanation of the scheme, in the step (2), the refining liquid contains 60-150g/L of sodium hydroxide solution, 30-70g/L of hydrogen peroxide, 6-14g/L of efficient refining agent M-170D, 6-14g/L of hydrogen peroxide stabilizer M-1021, 3-5g/L of sodium persulfate and 2-5g/L of water quality conditioner M-1075A; the concentration of the sodium hydroxide solution is 32 percent, and the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide is 27.5 percent.
As a further illustration of the above scheme, in the step (8), the disperse dye microcapsule is prepared by adding disperse dye into a chitosan oligosaccharide solution, wherein the added disperse dye accounts for 10-15% of the chitosan oligosaccharide solution, and uniformly stirring to obtain a pre-mixed solution, wherein the concentration of the used chitosan oligosaccharide solution is 25-30%; heating the premixed solution to 45-50 ℃, adding 5-10% of aloe extract and 5-10% of hyaluronic acid by mass percent of the premixed solution, uniformly stirring, adding 3-4% of aqueous solution of copolymer of maleic anhydride and isopropyl ether, shearing at 12000-15000rpm at a high speed for emulsification for 15-18min, adjusting the pH value to 6.5-7, uniformly stirring, placing in an ice-water bath for 10-13min, adding 5-8% of ethanol according to the volume ratio, adjusting the pH value to 8-9, heating to 60-65 ℃, stirring, simultaneously adding 0.3g/L of organosilicon quaternary ammonium salt solution and 5-10% of 2, 6-di [ (dimethylamino) methyl ] phenol solution; placing in ice water bath for 90-120min, filtering and washing to obtain; the volume of the added organosilicon quaternary ammonium salt solution accounts for 30-50% of the volume of the premixed solution, and the 2, 6-bis [ (dimethylamino) methyl ] phenol solution accounts for 30-50% of the volume of the premixed solution.
As a further illustration of the above scheme, the nonaqueous medium used is a low viscosity, high boiling point, low surface tension organic solvent characterized by being immiscible with water and not being an easily recoverable solvent for dissolving the reactive dye:
the viscosity of the non-aqueous medium is<50mm2/s;
The boiling point of the non-aqueous medium is 150-300 ℃;
the surface tension of the non-aqueous medium is 15-25dyn/cm (25 ℃).
As a further explanation of the above scheme, the three-proofing finishing liquid contains a softening agent 3305: 5-20g/L, chlorine-resistant washing promoter: 20-40g/L, finishing agent CP-SLA: 10-30g/L of finishing agent EASY: 5-10g/L of finish HPC-6: 10-30g/L, soil release finishing agent: CP-R: 10-30g/L, substituted acid: 1-2g/L of resin finishing agent, 10-20g/L of resin finishing agent and 1-2g/L of calcium chloride.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: according to the production process of the terylene and cellulose fiber blended weft-stretch fabric, the loss rate of the produced fabric in the aspects of strength and elasticity is low through improvement of refining, mercerizing, dyeing, color fixing, three-proofing finishing and the like, and the prepared fabric has good color fastness and three-proofing effect.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further illustrated by the following specific examples.
Example one
The production process of the terylene and cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric comprises the following steps: (1) fabric selection, (2) refining, (3) singeing, (4) soaking in tea saponin working solution, (5) washing, (6) mercerizing, (7) pre-shaping, (8) dyeing, (9) soaping, (10) washing and (11) three-proofing finishing.
In the step (1), the fabric is selected to contain 30% of natural cellulose fiber, 30% of regenerated cellulose fiber, 5% of stretch yarn and the balance of terylene according to weight percentage. The elastic yarn is spandex yarn or T400 elastic yarn, and is selected to be 40D spandex yarn in the embodiment; the cellulose fiber is natural cellulose fiber or regenerated cellulose fiber; the natural cellulose fiber is hemp fiber, flax fiber, ramie fiber or cotton fiber, and the regenerated cellulose fiber is tencel, richcel or modal. Cotton, flax and tencel selected in this example.
The specification of the fabric is as follows: 24.3tex x (19.4tex +40D), 260 pieces/10 cm x 308 pieces/10 cm x 165cm elastic cloth, the warp yarn is cotton and terylene blended yarn, the weft yarn is core-spun yarn, wherein the coating layer is tencel, flax and cotton blended yarn, and the core yarn is spandex yarn.
In the refining step (2), the fabric selected in the previous step is firstly treated by adopting an alkaline-oxygen cold pad-batch process, wherein the alkaline-oxygen cold pad-batch process is to pad the fabric with refining liquid at room temperature and stack the fabric for 12 hours, and the liquid carrying rate after padding is 120%.
The used refining liquid contains 60g/L of sodium hydroxide solution, 30g/L of hydrogen peroxide, 6g/L of high-efficiency refining agent M-170D, 6g/L of hydrogen peroxide stabilizer M-1021, 3g/L of sodium persulfate and 2g/L of water quality conditioner M-1075A; the concentration of the sodium hydroxide solution is 32 percent, and the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide is 27.5 percent.
Tencel fibers have anisotropic swelling properties during wet processing, and are very prone to fibrillation and rope-like wrinkle marks. The fibrillation of the tencel fiber can be reduced by adopting an alkaline-oxygen cold pad-batch process treatment in which a high-efficiency refining agent M-170D and sodium persulfate are used.
In the singeing in the step (3), a gas singeing machine is adopted, a fire hole is a positive fire hole and a reverse fire hole, the distance between flame and a cloth cover is 3cm, and the flame temperature is 800 ℃; and extinguishing fire by adopting steam, wherein the falling temperature is not higher than 50 ℃; the singeing rating was 3-4. The singeing can reduce the fluff generated by the cloth cover, so that the cloth cover has better effect in subsequent finishing.
In the tea saponin dipping working solution in the step (4), padding the fabric treated in the previous step with the tea saponin working solution and then steaming; the tea saponin working solution contains 30g/L of tea saponin, 5g/L of essence, 8g/L of amino trimethylene phosphonic acid tetrasodium, 1g/L of benzotriazole and 5g/L of sodium ricinoleate sulfate, and the liquid carrying rate after padding the tea saponin working solution is 80%; the steaming temperature was 100 ℃ and the time was 30 s.
The tea saponin has excellent permeability, and the blended fabric can promote the swelling of the slurry, degrade and emulsify impurities such as the slurry, pectin, lignin, wax, gray matter, hemp skin and the like after padding the tea saponin, is favorable for improving the washing effect of the fabric, and ensures the capillary effect, whiteness and hand feeling of a fabric semi-product. And the used amino trimethyl tetra sodium phosphate and sodium ricinoleate can protect the surfaces of the terylene and tencel and avoid the tea saponin from permeating the terylene and the tencel.
And (5) in the step (5), washing the steamed fabric in the previous step by adopting high-temperature countercurrent steaming washing in the 1 st to 3 rd lattices, performing medium-temperature countercurrent washing at 85 ℃ and 4 ℃ to 5 th lattices at 75 ℃ and performing countercurrent cold water washing in the 6 th to 7 th lattices, and then drying.
In the step (6), the fabric prepared in the previous step is soaked in mercerizing liquid, the temperature of the mercerizing liquid is 15 ℃, the soaking time is 30s, the fabric in the mercerizing liquid is in a stretching and expanding state, the stretching length is 1%, and the expanding is 5%; soaking the mercerizing liquid, and then washing in water at 60 ℃, wherein the washing time is 40 s; the mercerizing liquid contains 120g/L of sodium hydroxide solution.
In the step (7), the setting temperature is 170 ℃, the cropping temperature is not higher than 50 ℃, and the skewness of the weft is less than 3%.
In the dyeing step (8), padding the fabric subjected to the previous step into a disperse dye solution, fixing the color in a non-aqueous medium, and then washing and drying; the band liquor after padding the disperse dye liquor is 80 percent; the fixation temperature in a non-aqueous medium is 90-DEG C, and the fixation time is 5 s. Then sequentially padding the dried fabric with 5% fatty acid methyl ester ethoxylate sodium sulfonate solution and reactive dye liquor, fixing color in a non-aqueous medium, and then washing, soaping and drying; the liquid carrying rate after padding is 80 percent; the fixation temperature in a non-aqueous medium is 100 ℃, and the fixation time is 10. The non-aqueous medium used is an organic solvent of low viscosity, high boiling point, low surface tension, characterized by being immiscible with water and not being able to dissolve the easily recoverable solvent of the reactive dyes: the viscosity of the non-aqueous medium is<50mm2S; the boiling point of the non-aqueous medium is 150 ℃; the surface tension of the non-aqueous medium was 15dyn/cm (25 ℃ C.).
The disperse dye solution contains 3% o.w.f of disperse dye microcapsules, 1g/L of a disperse leveling agent, 1.5g/L of alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether phosphate, 25g/L of sodium sulfate and a penetrating agent JFC4 g/L.
The preparation of the disperse dye microcapsule is that disperse dye is added into the chitosan oligosaccharide solution, the added disperse dye accounts for 10 percent of the chitosan oligosaccharide solution, and the mixture is stirred evenly to obtain a premixed solution, and the concentration of the used chitosan oligosaccharide solution is 25 percent; heating the premixed solution to 45 deg.C, adding Aloe extract 5 wt% and hyaluronic acid 5 wt% of the premixed solution, stirring, adding 3% copolymer aqueous solution of maleic anhydride and isopropyl ether, high-speed shearing at 12000rpm for emulsifying for 15min, and adjusting pH to 6.5. Stirring uniformly, placing in ice water bath for 10min, adding 5% ethanol according to volume ratio, adjusting pH to 8, heating to 60 deg.C, stirring, adding 0.3g/L organosilicon quaternary ammonium salt solution and 5-2, 6-bis [ (dimethylamino) methyl ] phenol solution; placing in ice water bath for 90min, filtering and washing to obtain; the volume of the added silicone quaternary ammonium salt solution was 30% of the pre-mixed solution, and the 2, 6-bis [ (dimethylamino) methyl ] phenol solution was 30% of the pre-mixed solution. In particular to black disperse dye.
The reactive dye solution contains 1 o.w.f% of reactive dye, 10g/L of dispersant and peregal O5 g/L; the dispersant is hydroxy ethylidene diphosphonic acid or quaternary ammonium salt cationic compound. In particular to a black reactive dye.
In the step (9), soaping the fabric in the soaping liquid at 90 ℃; the soaping liquid contains 0.5 percent of soaping agent EA-265 and 5g/L of anionic color fixing agent;
in the step (10), the fabric obtained in the previous step is washed in water at 50 ℃ and dried, and the water content is not higher than 3%.
And (4) in the three-proofing finishing in the step (11), padding the fabric subjected to the last step with three-proofing finishing liquid, baking the fabric on a shaping device, and cropping after cooling the fabric. The three-proofing finishing liquid contains a softening agent 3305: 5g/L, chlorine-resistant washing promoter: 20g/L, finishing agent CP-SLA: 10g/L, finishing agent EASY: 5g/L of finish HPC-6: 10g/L, soil release finishing agent: CP-R: 10g/L, substituted acid: 1g/L, 10g/L of resin finishing agent and 1g/L of calcium chloride. The baking is divided into three stages, the temperature of the first stage is 100-120 ℃, and the time is 5-10 s; the second stage is 190 ℃ at 180 ℃ for 3-5 s; the third stage is at 90-100 deg.C for 10-15 s. The fabric is baked in three stages, so that auxiliaries such as a softening agent and a finishing agent in the three-proofing finishing liquid can permeate into fibers, and the fabric still has a good three-proofing function after being washed for multiple times.
In the step (12), the moisture content of the sprayed fabric is 10-12%, the pressure of a pressure-bearing roller is 0.10-0.15MPa, the pressure of a drying cylinder is 0.1MPa, and the pressure of the pressure-bearing roller is 2-3 kg.
Example two
The production process of the terylene and cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric comprises the following steps: (1) fabric selection, (2) refining, (3) singeing, (4) soaking in tea saponin working solution, (5) washing, (6) mercerizing, (7) pre-shaping, (8) dyeing, (9) soaping, (10) washing and (11) three-proofing finishing.
In the step (1), the fabric is selected to contain 20% of natural cellulose fiber, 20% of regenerated cellulose fiber, 3% of stretch yarn and the balance of terylene in percentage by weight. The elastic yarn is spandex yarn or T400 elastic yarn, and is selected to be 40DT400 elastic yarn in the embodiment; the cellulose fiber is natural cellulose fiber or regenerated cellulose fiber; the natural cellulose fiber is hemp fiber, flax fiber, ramie fiber or cotton fiber, and the regenerated cellulose fiber is tencel, richcel or modal. Cotton, ramie and tencel selected in this example.
The specification of the fabric is as follows: 24.3tex x (19.4tex +40D), 260 pieces/10 cm x 308 pieces/10 cm x 165cm elastic cloth, the warp yarn is cotton and terylene blended yarn, the weft yarn is core-spun yarn, wherein the coating layer is tencel, flax and cotton blended yarn, and the core yarn is spandex yarn.
In the refining step (2), the fabric selected in the previous step is firstly treated by adopting an alkaline-oxygen cold pad-batch process, wherein the alkaline-oxygen cold pad-batch process is to pad the fabric with refining liquid at room temperature and stack the fabric for 12 to 24 hours, and the liquid carrying rate after padding is 80 to 120 percent.
The used refining liquid contains 150g/L of sodium hydroxide solution, 70g/L of hydrogen peroxide, 14g/L of high-efficiency refining agent M-170D, 14g/L of hydrogen peroxide stabilizer M-1021, 5g/L of sodium persulfate and 5g/L of water quality conditioner M-1075A; the concentration of the sodium hydroxide solution is 32 percent, and the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide is 27.5 percent.
In the singeing in the step (3), a gas singeing machine is adopted, a fire hole is a positive fire hole and a reverse fire hole, the distance between flame and a cloth cover is 4cm, and the flame temperature is 900 ℃; and extinguishing fire by adopting steam, wherein the falling temperature is not higher than 50 ℃; the singeing rating was 3-4. The singeing can reduce the fluff generated by the cloth cover, so that the cloth cover has better effect in subsequent finishing.
In the tea saponin dipping working solution in the step (4), padding the fabric treated in the previous step with the tea saponin working solution and then steaming; the tea saponin working solution contains 40g/L of tea saponin, 8g/L of essence, 12g/L of amino trimethylene phosphonic acid tetrasodium, 3g/L of benzotriazole and 8g/L of sodium ricinoleate sulfate, and the liquid carrying rate after padding the tea saponin working solution is 90%; the steaming temperature was 102 ℃ and the time was 40 s.
And (5) in the step (5), washing the steamed fabric in the last step by adopting high-temperature countercurrent steaming washing in the 1 st to 3 rd lattices at the temperature of 90 ℃, medium-temperature countercurrent washing in the 4 th to 5 th lattices at the temperature of 80 ℃ and countercurrent cold water washing in the 6 th to 7 th lattices, and then drying.
In the step (6), the fabric prepared in the previous step is soaked in mercerizing liquid, the temperature of the mercerizing liquid is 25 ℃, the soaking time is 50s, the fabric in the mercerizing liquid is in a stretching and expanding state, the stretching length is 3%, and the expanding is 10%; soaking the mercerizing liquid, and then washing in water at 80 ℃, wherein the washing time is 60 s; the mercerizing liquid contains 140g/L of sodium hydroxide solution.
In the step (7), the setting temperature is 175 ℃, the cropping temperature is not higher than 50 ℃, and the skewness of the weft is less than 3%.
In the dyeing step (8), padding the fabric subjected to the previous step into a disperse dye solution, fixing the color in a non-aqueous medium, and then washing and drying; the band liquor after padding the disperse dye liquor is 90 percent; the fixation temperature in a non-aqueous medium is 100 ℃ and the fixation time is 10 s. Then the dried fabric is sequentially padded with 10% fatty acid methyl ester ethoxylate sodium sulfonate solution and reactive dye liquor, and the fabric is not dyed with the reactive dye liquorFixing color in an aqueous medium, and then washing, soaping and drying; the liquid carrying rate after padding is 90 percent; the fixation temperature in a non-aqueous medium is 105 ℃, and the fixation time is 15 s. The non-aqueous medium used is an organic solvent of low viscosity, high boiling point, low surface tension, characterized by being immiscible with water and not being able to dissolve the easily recoverable solvent of the reactive dyes: the viscosity of the non-aqueous medium is<50mm2S; the boiling point of the non-aqueous medium is 300 ℃; the surface tension of the non-aqueous medium was 25dyn/cm (25 ℃ C.).
The disperse dye solution contains disperse dye microcapsule-5% o.w.f, disperse leveling agent 2g/L, alkyl phenol polyoxyethylene ether phosphate 3g/L, sodium sulfate 35g/L and penetrating agent JFC6 g/L. The black disperse dye used. Or other color disperse dyes, it is desirable that the disperse dye and the reactive dye be the same color.
The preparation of the disperse dye microcapsule is that disperse dye is added into the chitosan oligosaccharide solution, the added disperse dye accounts for 15 percent of the chitosan oligosaccharide solution, and the mixture is stirred evenly to obtain a premixed solution, and the concentration of the used chitosan oligosaccharide solution is 30 percent; heating the premixed solution to 50 ℃, adding 10 mass percent of aloe extract and 10 mass percent of hyaluronic acid of the premixed solution, uniformly stirring, then adding 4 mass percent of maleic anhydride and isopropyl ether copolymer water solution, shearing at 15000rpm at high speed for emulsification for 18min, adjusting the pH value to 7, uniformly stirring, then placing in an ice water bath for 13min, adding 8 volume percent of ethanol, adjusting the pH value to 9, heating to 65 ℃, stirring, simultaneously adding 0.3g/L concentration of organosilicon quaternary ammonium salt solution and 5-10 mass percent of 2, 6-di [ (dimethylamino) methyl ] phenol solution; placing in ice water bath for 90-120min, filtering and washing to obtain; the volume of the added organosilicon quaternary ammonium salt solution accounts for 30-50% of the volume of the premixed solution, and the 2, 6-bis [ (dimethylamino) methyl ] phenol solution accounts for 30-50% of the volume of the premixed solution.
The reactive dye solution contains 5 o.w.f% of reactive dye, 10-20g/L of dispersant and 10-10 g/L of peregal O; the dispersant is hydroxy ethylidene diphosphonic acid or quaternary ammonium salt cationic compound. In particular to a black reactive dye.
In the step (9), soaping the fabric in the soaping liquid at the temperature of 95 ℃; the soap lotion contains 1% of soaping agent EA-265 and 8g/L of anionic color fixing agent;
in the step (10), the fabric obtained in the previous step is washed in water at 60 ℃ and dried, and the water content is not higher than 3%.
And (4) in the three-proofing finishing in the step (11), padding the fabric subjected to the last step with three-proofing finishing liquid, baking the fabric on a shaping device, and cropping after cooling the fabric. The three-proofing finishing liquid contains a softening agent 3305: 20g/L, chlorine-resistant washing promoter: 40g/L, finishing agent CP-SLA: 30g/L, finishing agent EASY: 0g/L of finish HPC-6: 30g/L, soil release finishing agent: CP-R: 30g/L, substituted acid: 2g/L, 10-20g/L of resin finishing agent and 1-2g/L of calcium chloride. The baking is divided into three stages, the temperature of the first stage is 100-120 ℃, and the time is 5-10 s; the second stage is 190 ℃ at 180 ℃ for 3-5 s; the third stage is at 90-100 deg.C for 10-15 s.
In the step (12), the moisture content of the sprayed fabric is 10-12%, the pressure of a pressure-bearing roller is 0.10-0.15MPa, the pressure of a drying cylinder is 0.1MPa, and the pressure of the pressure-bearing roller is 2-3 kg.
Comparative example
The production process flow of the dyeing process of the terylene and regenerated cellulose fiber weft elastic fabric related to the comparative example is as follows: cold rolling pile → steaming and washing → singeing → mercerizing → shaping → dyeing → soft finishing → preshrinking → code checking → finished product. The fabric used was the same as in example one.
In cold pad refining, vehicle speed: 50m/min, soaking and rolling for two times, and padder pressure: stacking at room temperature of 0.08-0.1 Mpa for 24h, 6-8 r/min. The refining solution used had the following composition: 35-40 g/L of caustic soda, 12-14 g/L of hydrogen peroxide, 12-170D 12g/L of scouring agent, 10g/L of hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, M-1075A2g/L of water quality conditioner and 3g/L of sodium persulfate.
In the steam washing, hot water washing two lattices → alkali washing (two lattices, 95 ℃) → hot water washing three lattices (90 ℃ → 80 ℃ → 60 ℃) → water washing → drying are adopted.
In singeing, vehicle speed: 90-1100 m/min, two positive and two negative, flame temperature: the temperature is 800-900 ℃, the steam extinguishes, the cropping temperature is less than 50 ℃, and the singeing rating is as follows: 3-4 grade.
In mercerization, the speed of the vehicle is as follows: 60m/min, rolling alkali concentration: 150-160 g/L, spreading: 155cm, light alkali concentration: 40-45 g/L, alkali leaching temperature: 60-70 ℃, doffing temperature: below 50 ℃.
Setting the vehicle speed: 50m/min, setting temperature: and (3) at 190-195 ℃, cropping width: 137-138 cm, and the cropping temperature: < 50 ℃, skewing in weft (skew in arc): is less than 3 percent.
Dyeing (pad dyeing)
When tencel and linen fabrics are dyed by an overflow machine, the fabrics are repeatedly rubbed in a cylinder, fluff is easily generated on the surface, the smoothness of the cloth surface of the fabrics is influenced, and long-car continuous dyeing and pad dyeing is adopted to improve the smoothness and the color light consistency of the fabrics. As the tencel and the ramie fibers are quick in moisture absorption and dispersion and easy to generate dye migration, the dye liquor needs to be added with the anti-migration agent, and the anti-migration agent is added into the dye bath, so that cloth cover streaks and left, middle and right color differences caused by dye migration are prevented.
The dye liquor contains 3% o.w.f reactive dye (reactive black BED), 0.5% o.w.f sodium hexametaphosphate and 20g/L anti-migration agent M-103A. Vehicle speed: 50-55 m/min, pre-drying temperature: (1)60 to 80 ℃ (2)80 to 90 ℃ (3)90 to 100 ℃.
In fixation, the formula of the fixation solution is caustic soda: 5g/L, anhydrous sodium sulphate: 200g/L, soda ash: 20g/L, dye-proofing salt: 3 g/L. Steaming is carried out after fixation, and the steaming temperature is as follows: 101-102 ℃, time: 70-90 seconds.
And then soaping, namely soaping by adopting a soaping liquid at 90-95 ℃, wherein the soaping liquid contains 1-2% of soap flakes.
Softening and finishing: the tencel and hemp fabric has the characteristics of smooth, rough, stiff and smooth style and moisture absorption and quick drying, and the unique style and performance of the fabric are fully shown by selecting the polyurethane modified silicone oil with good hydrophilicity and stiff and elastic effect during hand feeling finishing. The used finishing liquid contains 40g/L of novel organic silicon finishing agent M-5223, 10g/L of hydrophilic modified siloxane emulsion M-5202H and 20g/L of dye fastness improver M-2988. Vehicle speed: 50-55 m/min, temperature: 155-160 ℃.
In the preshrinking process, in order to ensure that the warp shrinkage of the fabric reaches the quality standard, preshrinking treatment needs to be carried out on the fabric, a shrinkage test needs to be carried out on the fabric before preshrinking, and the technological parameters of the preshrinking machine are controlled according to the shrinkage; the specific process comprises the following steps: the speed of the vehicle is 50m/min, the moisture content of the sprayed fabric is 10-12%, the pressure of a pressure-bearing roller is 0.10-0.15Mpa, the pressure of the pressure-bearing roller is 1-2kg, the pressure of a drying cylinder is 0.1Mpa, and the skewness of weft is less than 3%.
The following tests were carried out on the fabrics prepared in examples one, two and comparative example: (1) color depth (K/S): the K/S value represents the apparent depth of the dyed fabric, with greater K/S values indicating darker colors and conversely lighter colors. Can indicate the color yield of the dye on the fabric. (2) Whiteness: according to GB/T8425-1987 Instrument evaluation method of textile whiteness, the test conditions are D65 light source, wavelength range 360-. (3) Hair effect: according to ZBW04019-1990 method for testing the capillary Effect of textiles. (4) Wash fastness test the (5) crock fastness was determined according to GB/T3920-2008 "crock fastness for textile colour fastness test" following GB/T8629-2001 "household washing and drying procedure for textile test" 7B washing procedure. Measured by a YB-571B type rubbing fastness instrument. (6) Breaking strength: according to the GB/T3918-1997 standard. Whiteness and capillary are measured after the fabric is refined. The specific test results are as follows:
as can be seen from the above table, after refining, the fabrics of the first and second examples have good capillary effect, whiteness and desizing effect, good cloth cover effect, and less breaking strength loss rate compared with the comparative examples.
The fabrics prepared in the first embodiment, the second embodiment and the comparative embodiment are tested for K/S value, color fastness, breaking strength loss rate, shrinkage rate and the like. Wherein the color fastness comprises fading color fastness and staining color fastness.
The foregoing detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the invention has been presented. It should be understood that numerous modifications and variations could be devised by those skilled in the art in light of the present teachings without departing from the inventive concepts. Therefore, the technical solutions available to those skilled in the art through logic analysis, reasoning and limited experiments based on the prior art according to the concept of the present invention should be within the scope of protection defined by the claims.

Claims (6)

1. A production process of a terylene and cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) selecting a fabric: according to the weight percentage, the selected fabric contains 20-30% of natural cellulose fiber, 20-30% of regenerated cellulose fiber, 3-5% of stretch yarn and the balance of terylene;
(2) refining: firstly, processing the fabric selected in the last step by adopting an alkaline-oxygen cold pad-batch process, wherein the alkaline-oxygen cold pad-batch process comprises the steps of padding the fabric with refining liquid at room temperature and stacking for 12-24 hours, and the liquid carrying rate after padding is 80-120%;
(3) singeing: a gas singeing machine is adopted, a fire hole is arranged in a positive-negative mode, the distance between flame and a cloth cover is 3-4cm, and the flame temperature is 800-; and extinguishing fire by adopting steam, wherein the falling temperature is not higher than 50 ℃; singeing is rated as grade 3-4;
(4) dipping tea saponin working solution: padding the fabric treated in the previous step with tea saponin working solution and then steaming; the tea saponin working solution contains 30-40g/L of tea saponin, 5-8g/L of essence, 8-12g/L of amino trimethylene phosphonic acid tetrasodium, 1-3g/L of benzotriazole and 5-8g/L of sodium ricinoleate sulfate, and the liquid carrying rate after padding the tea saponin working solution is 80-90%; the steaming temperature is 100-102 ℃, and the time is 30-40 s;
(5) washing with water: washing the fabric steamed in the last step with water, wherein the water washing is carried out in 1 st to 3 rd lattices by adopting high-temperature countercurrent steaming washing, the temperature is 85 ℃ to 90 ℃, the medium-temperature countercurrent washing is carried out in 4 th to 5 th lattices, the temperature is 75 ℃ to 80 ℃, the fabric is washed by countercurrent cold water in 6 th to 7 th lattices, and then drying is carried out;
(6) mercerizing: dipping the fabric prepared in the last step into mercerizing liquid, wherein the temperature of the mercerizing liquid is 15-25 ℃, the dipping time is 30-50s, the fabric in the mercerizing liquid is in a stretching and expanding state, the stretching length is 1-3%, and the expanding is 5-10%; soaking the mercerizing liquid, and then washing in water at the temperature of 60-80 ℃, wherein the washing time is 40-60 s; the mercerizing liquid contains 120-140g/L sodium hydroxide solution;
(7) presetting: the setting temperature is 170-175 ℃, the cloth falling temperature is not higher than 50 ℃, and the weft inclination is less than 3 percent;
(8) dyeing: padding the fabric subjected to the previous step into a disperse dye solution, fixing the color in a non-aqueous medium, and then washing and drying; the band liquid after padding the disperse dye liquor is 80-90%; fixing color in non-aqueous medium at 90-100 deg.C for 5-10 s;
the disperse dye solution contains 3-5% o.w.f of disperse dye microcapsules, 1-2g/L of a disperse leveling agent, 1.5-3g/L of alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether phosphate, 25-35g/L of sodium sulfate and a penetrating agent JFC4-6 g/L;
then padding the dried fabric with 5-10% of fatty acid methyl ester ethoxylate sodium sulfonate solution and reactive dye liquor in sequence, fixing color in a non-aqueous medium, and then washing, soaping and drying; the liquid carrying rate after padding is 80-90%; the color fixing temperature in a non-aqueous medium is 100-105 ℃, and the color fixing time is 10-15 s;
the reactive dye solution contains 1-5 o.w.f% of reactive dye, 10-20g/L of dispersing agent and 10-10 g/L of peregal O5; the dispersant is hydroxy ethylidene diphosphonic acid or quaternary ammonium salt cationic compound;
(9) soaping: soaping the fabric obtained in the last step in a soaping solution at the temperature of 90-95 ℃; the soaping liquid contains 0.5-1% of soaping agent EA-265 and 5-8g/L of anionic color fixing agent;
(10) washing with water: washing the fabric obtained in the last step in water at 50-60 ℃ and drying to obtain a water content of not higher than 3%;
(11) three-proofing finishing: padding the fabric subjected to the last step with a three-proofing finishing liquid, baking on a shaping device, and cropping after cooling the fabric;
(12) pre-shrinking: the moisture content of the sprayed fabric is 10-12%, the pressure of a pressure bearing roller is 0.10-0.15MPa, the pressure of a drying cylinder is 0.1MPa, and the pressure of the pressure bearing roller is 2-3 kg.
2. The production process of the terylene-cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn is spandex yarn or T400 elastic yarn; the cellulose fiber is natural cellulose fiber or regenerated cellulose fiber; the natural cellulose fiber is hemp fiber, flax fiber, ramie fiber or cotton fiber, and the regenerated cellulose fiber is tencel, richcel or modal.
3. The production process of the terylene-cellulose fiber blended weft elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that in the step (2), the refining solution contains 60-150g/L of sodium hydroxide solution, 30-70g/L of hydrogen peroxide, 6-14g/L of high-efficiency refining agent M-170D, 6-14g/L of hydrogen peroxide stabilizer M-1021, 3-5g/L of sodium persulfate, and 2-5g/L of water conditioner M-1075A; the concentration of the sodium hydroxide solution is 32 percent, and the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide is 27.5 percent.
4. The production process of the terylene-cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step (8), the disperse dye microcapsule is prepared by adding disperse dye into a chitosan oligosaccharide solution, wherein the added disperse dye accounts for 10-15% of the chitosan oligosaccharide solution, and uniformly stirring to obtain a pre-mixed solution, and the concentration of the used chitosan oligosaccharide solution is 25-30%; heating the premixed solution to 45-50 ℃, adding 5-10% of aloe extract and 5-10% of hyaluronic acid by mass percent of the premixed solution, uniformly stirring, adding 3-4% of aqueous solution of copolymer of maleic anhydride and isopropyl ether, shearing at 12000-15000rpm at a high speed for emulsification for 15-18min, adjusting the pH value to 6.5-7, uniformly stirring, placing in an ice-water bath for 10-13min, adding 5-8% of ethanol according to the volume ratio, adjusting the pH value to 8-9, heating to 60-65 ℃, stirring, simultaneously adding 0.3g/L of organosilicon quaternary ammonium salt solution and 5-10% of 2, 6-di [ (dimethylamino) methyl ] phenol solution; placing in ice water bath for 90-120min, filtering and washing to obtain; the volume of the added organosilicon quaternary ammonium salt solution accounts for 30-50% of the volume of the premixed solution, and the 2, 6-bis [ (dimethylamino) methyl ] phenol solution accounts for 30-50% of the volume of the premixed solution.
5. The process for producing blended weft-stretch fabrics made of terylene and cellulose fibers according to claim 1, wherein the non-aqueous medium is an organic solvent with low viscosity, high boiling point and low surface tension, and is characterized by being an easily-recycled solvent which is not miscible with water and can not dissolve reactive dyes:
the viscosity of the non-aqueous medium is<50mm2/s;
The boiling point of the non-aqueous medium is 150-300 ℃;
the surface tension of the non-aqueous medium is 15-25dyn/cm (25 ℃).
6. The production process of the terylene-cellulose fiber blended weft-elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein the three-proofing finishing liquid contains a softener 3305: 5-20g/L, chlorine-resistant washing promoter: 20-40g/L, finishing agent CP-SLA: 10-30g/L of finishing agent EASY: 5-10g/L of finish HPC-6: 10-30g/L, soil release finishing agent: CP-R: 10-30g/L, substituted acid: 1-2g/L of resin finishing agent, 10-20g/L of resin finishing agent and 1-2g/L of calcium chloride.
CN201911212070.2A 2019-12-02 2019-12-02 Production process of polyester and cellulose fiber blended weft-stretch fabric Pending CN111139664A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112011878A (en) * 2020-08-26 2020-12-01 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 Taxus chinensis tencel polyester fabric and preparation method thereof

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112011878A (en) * 2020-08-26 2020-12-01 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 Taxus chinensis tencel polyester fabric and preparation method thereof

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