CN110983575A - Preparation method of oxford fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of oxford fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110983575A CN110983575A CN201911386336.5A CN201911386336A CN110983575A CN 110983575 A CN110983575 A CN 110983575A CN 201911386336 A CN201911386336 A CN 201911386336A CN 110983575 A CN110983575 A CN 110983575A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/513—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads heat-resistant or fireproof
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- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/08—Melt spinning methods
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/22—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
- D01D5/23—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool by asymmetrical cooling of filaments, threads, or the like, leaving the spinnerettes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/253—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/44—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific cross-section or surface shape
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- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/58—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads characterised by the coefficients of friction
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
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Abstract
The invention relates to a preparation method of oxford fabric, wherein 40-50 English warps and 20-30 English wefts are interwoven to form 2/2 weft heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric; the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35; the preparation process of the flame-retardant polyester fiber comprises the following steps: extruding the flame-retardant polyester melt from trilobal spinneret orifices with unequal trilobal lengths on a spinneret plate (all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center), cooling by circular air blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 38-42 mm and the filament number of 1.3-1.6 dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain the flame-retardant polyester fibers. The invention adopts the flame-retardant polyester fiber with a three-dimensional curling shape and a trilobal cross section as a raw material, and the prepared oxford fabric has better flame retardance and fullness.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and relates to a preparation method of oxford fabric.
Background
Oxford is a fabric with various functions and wide application, and mainly comprises the following components in the market: the cover lattice, the full bullet, the chinlon, the lifting lattice and the like. Has the characteristics of easy washing and quick drying, soft hand feeling, good moisture absorption, comfortable wearing and the like. The oxford multi-purpose polyester-cotton blended yarn is interwoven with cotton yarns, and a weft weight flat or square flat structure is adopted.
The existing oxford cloth is widely applied, is usually used as cloth for outdoor sports, such as sports clothes, backpacks, tents and the like for outdoor use, and particularly needs to have uniform high elasticity and high strength in all directions of the cloth as a compression-shaped close-fitting sports clothes for outdoor sports, while the existing oxford cloth usually only has higher elasticity and strength in the transverse direction or the longitudinal direction singly, and the strength and the elasticity in all directions are not uniform, so that the hand feeling is not full enough, and the comfort is influenced.
Therefore, the research on the preparation method of the oxford fabric with good fullness is of great significance.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a preparation method of oxford fabric, and aims to solve the problem that the fullness of oxford fabric is not good enough when the tightness is small in the prior art.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following scheme:
a preparation method of oxford fabric comprises the steps of interweaving 40-50 English warps and 20-30 English wefts to form 2/2 weft heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric;
the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35;
when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 40-50%, and the weft tightness is 30-40%;
the preparation process of the flame-retardant polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the flame-retardant polyester melt from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 38-42 mm and the filament number of 1.3-1.6 dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain flame-retardant polyester fibers;
the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are unequal in length, wherein the length of the shortest leaf is randomly distributed between 0.15mm and 0.30mm, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0: 1.5-2.5, the widths of all the three leaves are the same, the ratio of the maximum length to the width of the shortest leaf is 2.5-3.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
namely, a plurality of trilobal spinneret orifices are arranged on a spinneret plate, each trilobal spinneret orifice comprises a leaf I, a leaf II and a leaf III, the leaf I in different trilobal spinneret orifices is the shortest leaf in the trilobal spinneret orifices, the lengths of the leaves II of all the trilobal spinneret orifices are the same, and the lengths of the leaves III of all the trilobal spinneret orifices are the same; the lengths of the blades I of all the trilobal spinneret orifices are randomly distributed between 0.15mm and 0.30 mm; the ratio of the length of the leaf I, the length of the leaf II and the length of the leaf III of the trilobal spinneret orifice with the length of the leaf I being 0.30mm is 1.0: 1.5-2.5; the widths of the leaves I, II and III of the same trilobal spinneret orifice are the same, and the widths of the leaves I, II and III of different trilobal spinneret orifices are the same; the ratio of the length to the width of the leaf I of the trilobal spinneret orifice with the length of the leaf I being 0.30mm is 2.5-3.5: 1; in each trilobal spinneret orifice, the included angle between the central lines of the blades I and II is 120 degrees, the included angle between the central lines of the blades II and III is 120 degrees, and the included angle between the central lines of the blades I and III is 120 degrees; the center lines of the blades I of all the trilobal spinneret orifices pass through the circle center, and in the same trilobal spinneret orifice, the distances between the blade I and the circle center are larger relative to the blades II and III;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting; in the parameters of the short yarn spinning process, the temperature of relaxation and heat setting is 120-130 ℃.
According to the preparation method of the oxford fabric, warp yarns and weft yarns are blended by the cotton fibers and the flame-retardant polyester fibers in the mass ratio of 65:35, and the prepared oxford fabric is good in texture, soft, wear-resistant and excellent in flame retardant property; the flame-retardant polyester fiber is a short filament with a trilobal cross section, three leaves of different lengths are 38-42 mm, and the filament number is 1.3-1.6 dtex, the flame-retardant polyester melt is extruded from trilobal spinneret orifices with different trilobal lengths on the same spinneret plate according to a short filament spinning process, the center line of the shortest leaf passes through the center of the circle and points away from the center of the circle, and meanwhile, circular air blowing is adopted for cooling, the three leaves of the flame-retardant polyester fiber are severely asymmetric and unbalanced in cooling condition, so that after the fiber is sprayed out, the cooling speeds of the melts at different positions on the cross section are inconsistent, and the main body is as follows: during spinning, the cooling air speed is high and is between 2.2 and 3.5m/s, the part close to the air blowing port is cooled earlier and faster, and the part far away from the air blowing port is cooled slower. When one of the trilobes in the trilobe spinneret orifice is facing the cooling wind, the melt of that lobe cools faster, while the rest of the trilobe cools slower. Under the tension of drawing, other parts in the trilobal shape are more easily drawn to be thin and have more concentrated stress, so that a trilobal stress asymmetric structure can be formed on a fiber trefoil cross section, the fiber with asymmetric stress on the cross section can show three-dimensional curling performance in the heat treatment or drawing process, the curling is good, and the elastic recovery rate is high.
The oxford fabric prepared by the method adopts the flame-retardant polyester fiber with a three-dimensional curling shape and a trilobal cross section as a raw material, and the flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape, so that monofilaments occupy large space, are fluffy and have strong three-dimensional sense, and the finally prepared oxford fabric has a full and thick hand feeling.
As a preferred technical scheme:
according to the preparation method of the oxford fabric, the intrinsic viscosity of the flame-retardant polyester melt is 0.60-0.70 dL/g.
According to the preparation method of the oxford, the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester consists of the PTA chain segment, the EG chain segment and the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment is 3-5% of that of the PTA chain segment.
According to the preparation method of the oxford fabric, other parameters of the short-filament spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 280-285 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.2-3.5 m/s, the winding speed is 800-1000 m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 80-85 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 120-125 ℃, and the stretching ratio is 3.5-4.0.
In the preparation method of the oxford fabric, the flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional crimp shape.
According to the preparation method of the oxford fabric, the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is more than or equal to 3.2cN/dtex, and the elongation at break is 35.0 +/-5.0%.
According to the preparation method of the oxford fabric, the flame-retardant polyester fiber has the crimp shrinkage of 21.2-23.4%, the crimp stability of 82.4-84.9%, the shrinkage elongation of 66.1-73.1% and the crimp elastic recovery of 78.2-81.8%.
In the preparation method of the oxford fabric, the gram weight of the oxford fabric is 140-155 g/m2And the fullness is 6.7-7.3 (the test method is the same as the literature, "summer megapeng, Mahui ying, Xumei. evaluation research progress of fabric style [ J)]Progress in textile technology, 2005(5):64-66. ").
Has the advantages that:
(1) the preparation method of the oxford fabric is simple and easy to implement, the cost is low, and the prepared oxford fabric is good in texture, soft and wear-resistant;
(2) according to the preparation method of the oxford fabric, the flame-retardant polyester fiber with the three-dimensional curling shape and the trefoil-shaped cross section is used as the raw material, so that the flame retardance and the fullness of the oxford fabric are improved, and the application range of the oxford fabric is expanded.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the trilobal spinneret orifice of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of the distribution of trilobal orifices of the present invention on a spinneret.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
The crimp shrinkage and crimp stability of the invention are obtained by testing the tow in GB6506-2001 synthetic fiber textured yarn crimp performance test method;
the method for testing the shrinkage elongation (reflecting the elasticity and the crimp degree of the deformed filament, the fiber is firstly loaded under light load and then loaded under heavy load, and the ratio of the length difference value under the two loads to the crimp length) and the crimp elastic recovery rate is as follows:
firstly, cutting two fiber samples with the length of about 50cm, putting the two fiber samples into hot water with the temperature of 100 ℃ for treatment for 30min, taking out the two fiber samples, naturally drying the two fiber samples, then cutting the sample with the length of about 30cm, fixing one end of the sample, loading a load of 0.0018cN/dtex on the other end of the sample, continuing for 30s, marking the sample at the position of 20cm, and obtaining the initial length l of the sample1(ii) a Then, the load of 0.09cN/dtex is loaded for 30s, and the position of the mark point is measured, namely the length l when the sample is loaded with heavy load2(ii) a Finally, removing the heavy load, retracting the sample for 2min without load, then adding the load of 0.0018cN/dtex, continuing for 30s, and measuring the position of the mark point on the scale, namely the recovery length l3(ii) a The percent elongation at Compression (CE) and the elastic recovery from crimp (SR) are calculated as follows:
CE＝(l2-l1)/l1；
SR＝(l2-l3)/(l2-l1)。
the trilobal spinneret orifices and the distribution thereof on the spinneret plate are shown in the attached drawings 1-2, the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are not equal in length, wherein the length of the shortest leaf is randomly distributed between 0.15-0.30 mm, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0: 1.5-2.5, the widths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the maximum length to the width of the shortest leaf is 2.5-3.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest blade of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center. The drawings are only schematic and should not be construed as limiting the invention.
Example 1
A preparation method of oxford fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing flame-retardant polyester fibers:
extruding a flame-retardant polyester (the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester comprises a PTA chain segment, an EG chain segment and a 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment is 3% of that of the PTA chain segment) melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.6dL/g from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular air blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 38mm and the filament number of 1.3dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain the flame-retardant polyester fibers;
a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 12, the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are not equal in length, the lengths of the shortest leaves are respectively 0.15mm, 0.17mm, 0.15mm, 0.18mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.15mm, 0.23mm, 0.17mm, 0.25mm and 0.30mm, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0:1.5:1.5, the widths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the width of the shortest leaf is 2.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting;
the parameters of the short yarn spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 280 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.2m/s, the winding speed is 80m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 80 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 120 ℃, the stretching ratio is 3.5, and the relaxation heat setting temperature is 120 ℃;
the prepared flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape; the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is 3.2cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40%, the crimp shrinkage is 21.2%, the crimp stability is 82.4%, the shrinkage elongation is 66.1%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 78.2%;
(2) preparing oxford:
interweaving 40-inch warp yarns and 20-inch weft yarns to form 2/2-weft heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric; wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35; when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 40 percent, and the weft tightness is 30 percent;
the gram weight of the prepared oxford fabric is 140g/m2The fullness was 6.7.
Example 2
A preparation method of oxford fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing flame-retardant polyester fibers:
extruding a flame-retardant polyester (the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester comprises a PTA chain segment, an EG chain segment and a 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment is 3% of that of the PTA chain segment) melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.68dL/g from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular air blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 38mm and the filament number of 1.5dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain the flame-retardant polyester fibers;
a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 12, the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are not equal in length, the lengths of the shortest leaves are 0.15mm, 0.17mm, 0.30mm, 0.18mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.18mm, 0.19mm, 0.23mm, 0.17mm, 0.25mm and 0.30mm respectively, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0:1.5:1.8, the widths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the width of the shortest leaf is 3.4:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting;
the parameters of the short yarn spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 281 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.2m/s, the winding speed is 82.3m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 81 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 120 ℃, the stretching ratio is 3.5, and the relaxation heat setting temperature is 121 ℃;
the prepared flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape; the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is 3.2cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 38%, the crimp shrinkage is 21.3%, the crimp stability is 83.6%, the shrinkage elongation is 66.6%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 79.3%;
(2) preparing oxford:
interweaving 43-count warp yarns and 24-count weft yarns to form 2/2-count heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric; wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35; when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 44%, and the weft tightness is 39%;
the gram weight of the prepared oxford fabric is 144g/m2The fullness was 6.7.
Example 3
A preparation method of oxford fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing flame-retardant polyester fibers:
extruding a flame-retardant polyester (the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester comprises a PTA chain segment, an EG chain segment and a 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment is 3% of that of the PTA chain segment) melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.64dL/g from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular air blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 42mm and the filament number of 1.4dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain the flame-retardant polyester fibers;
a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 12, the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are not equal in length, the lengths of the shortest leaves are respectively 0.15mm, 0.17mm, 0.15mm, 0.18mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.15mm, 0.23mm, 0.17mm, 0.25mm and 0.30mm, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0:1.5:2.5, the widths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the width of the shortest leaf is 3:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting;
the parameters of the short yarn spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 281 ℃, the cooling temperature is 21 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.3m/s, the winding speed is 88.5m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 81 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 120 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.7, and the relaxation heat setting temperature is 122 ℃;
the prepared flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape; the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is 3.2cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 37.8%, the crimp shrinkage is 21.5%, the crimp stability is 83.7%, the shrinkage elongation is 68.3%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 79.8%;
(2) preparing oxford:
interweaving 42-count warp yarns and 23-count weft yarns to form 2/2-count heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric; wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35; when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 50 percent, and the weft tightness is 36 percent;
the gram weight of the prepared oxford fabric is 149g/m2The fullness was 6.7.
Example 4
A preparation method of oxford fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing flame-retardant polyester fibers:
extruding a flame-retardant polyester (the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester comprises a PTA chain segment, an EG chain segment and a 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment is 3% of that of the PTA chain segment) melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.64dL/g from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular air blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 38mm and the filament number of 1.5dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain the flame-retardant polyester fibers;
a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 6, the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are not equal in length, the lengths of the shortest leaves are respectively 0.15mm, 0.17mm, 0.25mm and 0.30mm, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0:2.5:1.8, the widths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the width of the shortest leaf is 3.1:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting;
the parameters of the short yarn spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 282 ℃, the cooling temperature is 22 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.4m/s, the winding speed is 90.8m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 83 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 121 ℃, the stretching ratio is 3.7, and the relaxation heat setting temperature is 125 ℃;
the prepared flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape; the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is 3.4cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 37.1%, the crimp shrinkage is 22.2%, the crimp stability is 84%, the shrinkage elongation is 68.8%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 80.1%;
(2) preparing oxford:
interweaving 49-count warp yarns and 22-count weft yarns to form 2/2-count heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric; wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35; when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 46 percent, and the weft tightness is 35 percent;
the gram weight of the prepared oxford fabric is 142g/m2The fullness was 6.9.
Example 5
A preparation method of oxford fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing flame-retardant polyester fibers:
extruding a flame-retardant polyester (the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester comprises a PTA chain segment, an EG chain segment and a 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment is 5% of that of the PTA chain segment) melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.66dL/g from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular air blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 38mm and the filament number of 1.4dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain the flame-retardant polyester fibers;
a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 24, the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are not equal in length, the lengths of the shortest leaves are respectively 0.15mm, 0.17mm, 0.15mm, 0.18mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.15mm, 0.23mm, 0.17mm, 0.25mm, 0.30mm, 0.15mm, 0.17mm, 0.15mm, 0.18mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.15mm, 0.18mm, 0.23mm, 0.17mm, 0.22mm and 0.30mm, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0:2.5:12.0, the widths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the width is 2.6:1, and the central line of the adjacent two leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting;
the parameters of the short yarn spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 282 ℃, the cooling temperature is 23 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.6m/s, the winding speed is 95.5m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 83 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 121 ℃, the stretching ratio is 3.9, and the relaxation heat setting temperature is 127 ℃;
the prepared flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape; the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is 3.4cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 36.5%, the crimp shrinkage is 22.3%, the crimp stability is 84.3%, the shrinkage elongation is 69.6%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 80.4%;
(2) preparing oxford:
interweaving 43-count warp yarns and 27-count weft yarns to form 2/2-count heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric; wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35; when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 44%, and the weft tightness is 36%;
the gram weight of the prepared oxford fabric is 140g/m2The fullness was 6.9.
Example 6
A preparation method of oxford fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing flame-retardant polyester fibers:
extruding a flame-retardant polyester (the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester comprises a PTA chain segment, an EG chain segment and a 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment is 3% of that of the PTA chain segment) melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular air blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 40mm and the filament number of 1.4dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain the flame-retardant polyester fibers;
a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 6, the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are not equal in length, the lengths of the shortest leaves are respectively 0.15mm, 0.18mm, 0.15mm, 0.17mm, 0.25mm and 0.30mm, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0:2.5:2.5, the widths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the width is 2.9:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting;
the parameters of the short yarn spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 283 ℃, the cooling temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 3.2m/s, the winding speed is 97.1m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 84 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 122 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.9, and the relaxation heat setting temperature is 127 ℃;
the prepared flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape; the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is 3.6cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 33.2%, the crimp shrinkage is 22.5%, the crimp stability is 84.5%, the shrinkage elongation is 69.7%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 81.5%;
(2) preparing oxford:
interweaving 47-inch warp yarns and 30-inch weft yarns to form 2/2-weft heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric; wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35; when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 49 percent, and the weft tightness is 36 percent;
the gram weight of the prepared oxford fabric is 149g/m2The fullness was 6.9.
Example 7
A preparation method of oxford fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing flame-retardant polyester fibers:
extruding a flame-retardant polyester (the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester comprises a PTA chain segment, an EG chain segment and a 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment is 4% of that of the PTA chain segment) melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.66dL/g from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular air blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 38mm and the filament number of 1.3dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain the flame-retardant polyester fibers;
a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 12, the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are not equal in length, the lengths of the shortest leaves are 0.15mm, 0.17mm, 0.30mm, 0.18mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.18mm, 0.19mm, 0.23mm, 0.17mm, 0.25mm and 0.30mm respectively, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0:1.5:2.5, the widths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the width of the shortest leaf is 3.4:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting;
the parameters of the short yarn spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 285 ℃, the cooling temperature is 25 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 3.5m/s, the winding speed is 97.3m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 85 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 122 ℃, the stretching ratio is 4, and the relaxation heat setting temperature is 128 ℃;
the prepared flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape; the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is 3.6cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 32%, the crimp shrinkage is 22.8%, the crimp stability is 84.6%, the shrinkage elongation is 70.1%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 81.6%;
(2) preparing oxford:
interweaving 41-count warp yarns and 20-count weft yarns to form 2/2-count heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric; wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35; when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 47 percent, and the weft tightness is 31 percent;
the gram weight of the prepared oxford fabric is 147g/m2The fullness was 7.
Example 8
A preparation method of oxford fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing flame-retardant polyester fibers:
extruding a flame-retardant polyester (the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester comprises a PTA chain segment, an EG chain segment and a 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethyl phenyl hypophosphorous acid chain segment is 5% of that of the PTA chain segment) melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.7dL/g from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular air blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 42mm and the filament number of 1.6dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain the flame-retardant polyester fibers;
a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 18, the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are not equal in length, the length of the shortest leaf is 0.15mm, 0.17mm, 0.30mm, 0.16mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.18mm, 0.19mm, 0.23mm, 0.17mm, 0.25mm, 0.30mm, 0.18mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.18mm, 0.19mm and 0.23mm respectively, the lengths of the rest two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the rest two leaves is 1.0:2.0:2.0, the widths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the maximum length to the width of the shortest leaf is 3.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting;
the parameters of the short yarn spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 285 ℃, the cooling temperature is 25 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 3.5m/s, the winding speed is 100m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 85 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 125 ℃, the stretching multiple is 4, and the relaxation heat setting temperature is 130 ℃;
the prepared flame-retardant polyester fiber has a three-dimensional curling shape; the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is 3.6cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 30%, the crimp shrinkage is 23.4%, the crimp stability is 84.9%, the shrinkage elongation is 73.1%, and the crimp elastic recovery is 81.8%;
(2) preparing oxford:
interweaving 50-inch warp yarns and 30-inch weft yarns to form 2/2-weft heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric; wherein the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35; when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 50 percent, and the weft tightness is 40 percent;
the gram weight of the prepared oxford fabric is 155g/m2The fullness was 7.3.
Claims (8)
1. The preparation method of the oxford fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: interweaving 40-50 English warps and 20-30 English wefts to form 2/2 weft heavy flat tissues to obtain the oxford fabric;
the warp yarns and the weft yarns are formed by blending cotton fibers and flame-retardant polyester fibers in a mass ratio of 65: 35;
when the yarns are interwoven, the warp tightness is 40-50%, and the weft tightness is 30-40%;
the preparation process of the flame-retardant polyester fiber comprises the following steps:
extruding the flame-retardant polyester melt from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing short filaments with the length of 38-42 mm and the filament number of 1.3-1.6 dtex according to a short filament spinning process to obtain flame-retardant polyester fibers;
the three leaves of the trilobal spinneret orifices are unequal in length, wherein the length of the shortest leaf is randomly distributed between 0.15mm and 0.30mm, the lengths of the other two leaves are fixed, the ratio of the maximum length of the shortest leaf to the lengths of the other two leaves is 1.0: 1.5-2.5, the widths of all the three leaves are the same, the ratio of the maximum length to the width of the shortest leaf is 2.5-3.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the short yarn spinning process comprises the following steps: extrusion → cooling → oiling → winding → storage → bundling → water bath drafting → steam drafting → tension heat setting → curling → relaxation heat setting → cutting; in the parameters of the short yarn spinning process, the temperature of relaxation and heat setting is 120-130 ℃.
2. The method for preparing oxford according to claim 1, wherein the intrinsic viscosity of the flame-retardant polyester melt is 0.60 to 0.70 dL/g.
3. The method for preparing oxford according to claim 2, wherein the molecular chain of the flame-retardant polyester comprises a PTA segment, an EG segment and a 2-carboxyethylphenylphosphinic acid segment, and the molar weight of the 2-carboxyethylphenylphosphinic acid segment is 3-5% of the molar weight of the PTA segment.
4. The method for preparing oxford according to claim 3, wherein the other parameters of the spun staple spinning process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 220-225 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.2-3.5 m/s, the winding speed is 200-1000 m/min, the water bath drafting temperature is 80-85 ℃, the steam drafting temperature is 120-125 ℃, and the stretching ratio is 3.5-4.0.
5. The method for preparing oxford according to claim 4, wherein the flame retardant polyester fibers have a three-dimensional crimp shape.
6. The method for preparing oxford according to claim 5, wherein the breaking strength of the flame-retardant polyester fiber is not less than 3.2cN/dtex, and the elongation at break is 35.0 +/-5.0%.
7. The method for preparing oxford fabric according to claim 5, wherein the flame-retardant polyester fiber has a crimp shrinkage of 21.2 to 23.4%, a crimp stability of 82.4 to 84.9%, a shrinkage elongation of 66.1 to 73.1%, and a crimp elastic recovery of 78.2 to 81.8%.
8. The method for preparing the oxford fabric according to claim 1, wherein the weight of the oxford fabric is 140-155 g/m2The fullness is 6.7-7.3.
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