CN110983598B - Preparation method of vamp fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of vamp fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110983598B CN110983598B CN201911386286.0A CN201911386286A CN110983598B CN 110983598 B CN110983598 B CN 110983598B CN 201911386286 A CN201911386286 A CN 201911386286A CN 110983598 B CN110983598 B CN 110983598B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
- D04B1/20—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads crimped threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D10/00—Physical treatment of artificial filaments or the like during manufacture, i.e. during a continuous production process before the filaments have been collected
- D01D10/02—Heat treatment
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/08—Melt spinning methods
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/22—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
- D01D5/23—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool by asymmetrical cooling of filaments, threads, or the like, leaving the spinnerettes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/253—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/043—Footwear
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- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a preparation method of vamp fabric, which comprises the following steps: (1) on a flat knitting machine, main yarns and hot fuses are knitted into special yarns for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process; (2) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time; (3) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric; the self-curling elastic yarn is prepared by extruding PBT melt from trilobal spinneret orifices with three leaves of different lengths and widths on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY yarn according to an FDY process and then performing relaxation heat treatment. The method is simple and easy to implement, the thermal damage to the fabric is small, and the prepared fabric is good in size stability and air permeability after being washed by water.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and relates to a preparation method of a vamp fabric.
Background
The fabrics of the sports shoes are approximately PVC, PU, nubuck, superfine fiber, natural leather, mesh cloth and the like, wherein the PU fiber is soft, rich in elasticity and good in hand feeling, and is the most common material used in the market at present. However, the microstructure of the PU is changed more or less no matter the fabric is heat-set or other high-temperature treatment, and the change of the microstructure can cause the performance damage of the PU fiber, so that the fabric is thinned and thinned from the view point of the fabric; from the yarn point of view, the spandex content per unit length is reduced, and the elasticity of the spandex is reduced; in addition, the dimensional stability of the fabric after washing with water is also deteriorated. In addition, the fabric of the sports shoes has poor air permeability due to high fabric density.
Therefore, the research on the vamp fabric with good air permeability and water washing resistance is of great significance.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a preparation method of a vamp fabric, and aims to solve the problems that in the prior art, a PU vamp fabric is large in mechanical property damage and poor in air permeability after being washed or subjected to high-temperature heat treatment.
In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:
a preparation method of a vamp fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) on a flat knitting machine, main yarns and hot fuses are knitted into special yarns for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(3) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp (the temperature of the steam ironing and shaping treatment is 90-130 ℃, and during the steam ironing and shaping treatment, 2, 4 and 2 positioning needles are respectively arranged in the middle of a heel, the middle of a middle surface and the middle of a toe surface of a shoe to fix the vamp), so as to obtain a vamp fabric;
all self-curling elastic yarns were prepared as follows:
extruding a PBT melt from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) filaments according to an FDY process, and performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic filaments;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.1-1.6: 2.5-3.0, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1: 1.6-2.1: 1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 3.5-4.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and on the same circle, the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice points to each position separated by a certain angle, and 360-degree rotation change is completed in one circle.
One of the raw materials of the vamp fabric is self-curling elastic yarn, the self-curling elastic yarn is FDY yarn with the cross section of trilobal unequal length and unequal width, PBT melt is extruded from trilobal spinneret orifices with unequal length and unequal width of the trilobal on the same spinneret plate, all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, the shortest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices points to rotate for a certain angle at every position, the rotation change of 360 degrees is completed in one circle, meanwhile, circular blowing air is adopted for cooling, the cooling conditions of the trilobal are seriously asymmetric and unbalanced, so that the cooling speeds of the melt at different positions on the cross section are inconsistent after the fibers are self-sprayed, and the main body is as follows: during spinning, the cooling air speed is high and is between 1.80 and 2.30m/s, the part close to the air blowing port is cooled earlier and faster, and the part far away from the air blowing port is cooled slower. When one of the trilobes in the trilobe spinneret orifice is facing the cooling wind, the melt of that lobe cools faster, while the rest of the trilobe cools slower. Under the tension of drawing, other parts in the trilobal shape are easier to draw and thin and the stress is more concentrated, so that a trilobal stress asymmetric structure can be formed on a fiber trefoil cross section, and the fiber with asymmetric stress on the cross section can present three-dimensional curling performance and has good curling during heat treatment or drawing; the curling has the characteristics of lasting stability, good elasticity and the like, and can endow the fabric with better elasticity, bulkiness, coverage and dimensional stability.
Because the self-curling elastic yarn has three-dimensional curling performance and high filling power, the vamp fabric is made of the self-curling elastic yarn, and the air quantity passing through the fabric in unit area in unit time is greatly increased under certain pressure, so that the air permeability is effectively improved.
As a preferred technical scheme:
according to the preparation method of the vamp fabric, the intrinsic viscosity of the PBT melt is 1.10-1.20 dL/g.
According to the preparation method of the vamp fabric, the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 270-275 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.80-2.30 m/s, the one-roller speed is 1800-2000 m/min, the one-roller temperature is 80-85 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3800-4000 m/min, the two-roller temperature is 160-170 ℃, and the winding speed is 3710-3900 m/min.
According to the preparation method of the vamp fabric, the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 90-120 ℃, and the time is 20-30 min.
In the preparation method of the vamp material, the self-curling elastic yarns have a three-dimensional curling shape.
According to the preparation method of the vamp fabric, the self-curling elastic yarns have the curling shrinkage rate of 24-28%, the curling stability of 80-85%, the contraction elongation of 77-82% and the curling elastic recovery rate of 79-84%.
According to the preparation method of the vamp fabric, the breaking strength of the self-curling elastic yarn is more than or equal to 2.7cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40.0 +/-4.0%, and the total titer is 100-150 dtex.
According to the preparation method of the vamp fabric, the main yarn is terylene (common terylene), chinlon or cotton; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40.
According to the preparation method of the vamp fabric, the gram weight of the vamp fabric is 700-800 g/m2The flow resistance is 0.25-0.30 KPa.s/m (measured by a KES-F8-AP1 air permeability tester, the flow resistance (R) represents the test result, the air permeability is better when the R value is smaller), and the washing size change rate of the warp direction and the weft direction is-2.0% -1.5%.
Has the advantages that:
(1) the preparation method of the vamp fabric is simple and feasible and has low cost;
(2) according to the preparation method of the vamp fabric, the damage to the fabric caused by heat treatment in the processing engineering is small, and the prepared vamp fabric is good in size stability and air permeability after being washed.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the trilobal spinneret orifice of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of the distribution of trilobal orifices of the present invention on a spinneret.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
The crimp shrinkage and crimp stability of the invention are obtained by testing the tow in GB6506-2001 synthetic fiber textured yarn crimp performance test method;
the method for testing the shrinkage elongation (reflecting the elasticity and the crimp degree of the deformed filament, the fiber is firstly loaded under light load and then loaded under heavy load, and the ratio of the length difference value under the two loads to the crimp length) and the crimp elastic recovery rate is as follows:
firstly, cutting two fiber samples with the length of about 50cm, putting the two fiber samples into hot water with the temperature of 100 ℃ for treatment for 30min, taking out the two fiber samples, naturally drying the two fiber samples, then cutting the sample with the length of about 30cm, fixing one end of the sample, loading a load of 0.0018cN/dtex on the other end of the sample, continuing for 30s, marking the sample at the position of 20cm, and obtaining the initial length l of the sample1(ii) a Then, the load of 0.09cN/dtex is loaded for 30s, and the position of the mark point is measured, namely the length l when the sample is loaded with heavy load2(ii) a Finally, removing the heavy load, retracting the sample for 2min without load, then adding the load of 0.0018cN/dtex, continuing for 30s, and measuring the position of the mark point on the scale, namely the recovery length l3(ii) a The percent elongation at Compression (CE) and the elastic recovery from crimp (SR) are calculated as follows:
CE＝(l2-l1)/l1；
SR＝(l2-l3)/(l2-l1)。
the trilobal spinneret orifices and the distribution thereof on the spinneret plate are shown in the attached figures 1-2, the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.1-1.6: 2.5-3.0, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1: 1.6-2.1: 1, the length-width ratio of the shortest leaf is 3.5-4.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and on the same circle, the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice points to each position separated by a certain angle, and 360-degree rotation change is completed in one circle. The drawings are only schematic and should not be construed as limiting the invention.
Example 1
A preparation method of a vamp fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing self-curling elastic yarn:
extruding a PBT melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 1.1dL/g from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) yarns according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic yarns;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.1:2.5, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1:1.6:1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 3.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the pointing direction of the leaf I of one trilobal spinneret orifice deviates from the center of a circle by 10 degrees, the pointing direction of the leaf is taken as the reference direction, and the included angle between the pointing direction of the leaf I of the ith trilobal spinneret orifice adjacent to the pointing direction of the leaf I and the reference direction is I x 15 degrees clockwise;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 270 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.8m/s, the one-roller speed is 1800m/min, the one-roller temperature is 80 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3800m/min, the two-roller temperature is 160 ℃, and the winding speed is 3710 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 90 ℃ and the time is 30 min;
the prepared self-curling elastic yarn has a three-dimensional curling shape, the curling shrinkage rate of the self-curling elastic yarn is 24%, the curling stability is 80%, the contraction elongation is 77%, the curling elastic recovery rate is 79%, the breaking strength is 2.7cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 44%, and the total titer is 100 dtex;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, polyester (main yarn) and hot melt silk are knitted into special yarn for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40;
(3) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(4) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric;
the gram weight of the prepared vamp fabric is 700g/m2The flow resistance was 0.3 KPa.s/m, the washing size change rate in the warp direction was-2%, and the washing size change rate in the weft direction was-2%.
Example 2
A preparation method of a vamp fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing self-curling elastic yarn:
extruding a PBT melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 1.1dL/g from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) yarns according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic yarns;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.1:2.5, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1:1.8:1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 3.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the pointing direction of the leaf I of one trilobal spinneret orifice deviates from the center of a circle by 12 degrees, the pointing direction of the leaf is taken as the reference direction, and the included angle between the pointing direction of the leaf I of the ith trilobal spinneret orifice adjacent to the pointing direction of the leaf I and the reference direction is I x 15 degrees clockwise;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 270 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2m/s, the first roller speed is 1806m/min, the first roller temperature is 80 ℃, the two roller speed is 3806m/min, the two roller temperature is 161 ℃, and the winding speed is 3718 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 98 ℃, and the time is 29 min;
the prepared self-curling elastic yarn has a three-dimensional curling shape, the curling shrinkage rate of the self-curling elastic yarn is 24%, the curling stability is 83%, the contraction elongation is 77%, the curling elastic recovery rate is 79%, the breaking strength is 2.7cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 42.8%, and the total titer is 146 dtex;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, polyester (main yarn) and hot melt silk are knitted into special yarn for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40;
(3) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(4) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric;
the gram weight of the prepared vamp fabric is 744g/m2The flow resistance was 0.29KPa · s/m, the washing size change rate in the warp direction was 0.3%, and the washing size change rate in the weft direction was-0.5%.
Example 3
A preparation method of a vamp fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing self-curling elastic yarn:
extruding a PBT melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 1.15dL/g from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) yarns according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic yarns;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.2:2.5, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1:1.9:1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 3.9:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the pointing direction of the leaf I of one trilobal spinneret orifice deviates from the center of a circle by 10 degrees, the pointing direction of the leaf is taken as the reference direction, and the included angle between the pointing direction of the leaf I of the ith trilobal spinneret orifice adjacent to the pointing direction of the leaf I and the reference direction is I x 15 degrees clockwise;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 271 ℃, the cooling temperature is 21 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.1m/s, the first roller speed is 1825m/min, the first roller temperature is 81 ℃, the second roller speed is 3810m/min, the second roller temperature is 166 ℃, and the winding speed is 3724 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 100 ℃, and the time is 25 min;
the prepared self-curling elastic yarn has a three-dimensional curling shape, the curling shrinkage rate of the self-curling elastic yarn is 24%, the curling stability is 83%, the contraction elongation is 79%, the curling elastic recovery rate is 83%, the breaking strength is 2.8cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 41.9%, and the total titer is 139 dtex;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, nylon (main yarn) and hot melt are knitted into special yarn for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40;
(3) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(4) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric;
the gram weight of the prepared vamp fabric is 775g/m2The flow resistance was 0.28 KPa.s/m, the dimensional change rate of washing in the warp direction was-0.8%, and washing in the weft directionThe rate of change in the polyester size was 0.4%.
Example 4
A preparation method of a vamp fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing self-curling elastic yarn:
extruding a PBT melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 1.19dL/g from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) yarns according to an FDY process, and performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic yarns;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.6:2.5, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1:2.1:1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 3.6:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 18 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the pointing direction of the leaf I of one trilobal spinneret orifice deviates from the center of a circle by 15 degrees, the pointing direction of the leaf is taken as the reference direction, and the included angle between the pointing direction of the leaf I of the ith trilobal spinneret orifice adjacent to the pointing direction of the leaf I and the reference direction is I x 20 degrees clockwise;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 272 ℃, the cooling temperature is 22 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.1m/s, the first roller speed is 1850m/min, the first roller temperature is 81 ℃, the second roller speed is 3812m/min, the second roller temperature is 168 ℃, and the winding speed is 3760 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 102 ℃, and the time is 23 min;
the prepared self-curling elastic yarn has a three-dimensional curling shape, the curling shrinkage rate of the self-curling elastic yarn is 26%, the curling stability is 84%, the contraction elongation is 79%, the curling elastic recovery rate is 83%, the breaking strength is 2.8cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 40.8%, and the total titer is 144 dtex;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, nylon (main yarn) and hot melt are knitted into special yarn for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40;
(3) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(4) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric;
the gram weight of the prepared vamp fabric is 715g/m2The flow resistance was 0.28KPa · s/m, the washing size change rate in the warp direction was 1.5%, and the washing size change rate in the weft direction was-2%.
Example 5
A preparation method of a vamp fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing self-curling elastic yarn:
extruding a PBT melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 1.16dL/g from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic yarn;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.1:3.0, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1:1.6:1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 3.8:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; a circle of 12 trilobal spinneret orifices are arranged on the spinneret plate at equal intervals, the pointing direction of the leaf I of one trilobal spinneret orifice deviates from the center of a circle by 10 degrees, the pointing direction of the leaf is taken as the reference direction, and the included angle between the pointing direction of the leaf I of the ith trilobal spinneret orifice adjacent to the pointing direction of the leaf I and the reference direction is I x 30 degrees in the clockwise direction;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 272 ℃, the cooling temperature is 22 ℃, the cooling wind speed is 2.1m/s, the one-roller speed is 1884m/min, the one-roller temperature is 82 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3824m/min, the two-roller temperature is 169 ℃, and the winding speed is 3786 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 103 ℃, and the time is 22 min;
the prepared self-curling elastic yarn has a three-dimensional curling shape, the curling shrinkage rate of the self-curling elastic yarn is 27%, the curling stability is 84%, the contraction elongation is 79%, the curling elastic recovery rate is 83%, the breaking strength is 2.9cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 40.3%, and the total titer is 129 dtex;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, cotton (main yarn) and hot melt are knitted into special yarn for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40;
(3) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(4) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric;
the gram weight of the prepared vamp fabric is 712g/m2The flow resistance was 0.27KPa · s/m, the washing size change rate in the warp direction was 1.3%, and the washing size change rate in the weft direction was 0.5%.
Example 6
A preparation method of a vamp fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing self-curling elastic yarn:
extruding a PBT melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 1.16dL/g from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) according to an FDY process, and performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic yarn;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.5:2.8, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1:1.8:1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 3.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 24 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the pointing direction of the leaf I of one trilobal spinneret orifice deviates from the center of a circle by 10 degrees, the pointing direction of the leaf is taken as the reference direction, and the included angle between the pointing direction of the leaf I of the ith trilobal spinneret orifice adjacent to the pointing direction of the leaf I and the reference direction is I x 15 degrees clockwise;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 272 ℃, the cooling temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.1m/s, the one-roll speed is 1898m/min, the one-roll temperature is 84 ℃, the two-roll speed is 3914m/min, the two-roll temperature is 169 ℃, and the winding speed is 3848 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 106 ℃, and the time is 21 min;
the prepared self-curling elastic yarn has a three-dimensional curling shape, the curling shrinkage rate of the self-curling elastic yarn is 28%, the curling stability is 85%, the contraction elongation is 81%, the curling elastic recovery rate is 84%, the breaking strength is 3cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 40.1%, and the total titer is 136 dtex;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, cotton (main yarn) and hot melt are knitted into special yarn for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40;
(3) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(4) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric;
the gram weight of the prepared vamp fabric is 774g/m2The flow resistance was 0.27KPa · s/m, the washing size change rate in the warp direction was-1.7%, and the washing size change rate in the weft direction was 1.2%.
Example 7
A preparation method of a vamp fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing self-curling elastic yarn:
extruding a PBT melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 1.2dL/g from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) yarns according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic yarns;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.6:2.5, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1:1.9:1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 4.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 36, the pointing direction of the leaf I of one trilobal spinneret orifice deviates from the center of a circle by 10 degrees, the pointing direction of the leaf is taken as the reference direction, and the included angle between the pointing direction of the leaf I of the ith trilobal spinneret orifice adjacent to the pointing direction of the leaf I and the reference direction is I x 10 degrees in a clockwise direction;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 273 ℃, the cooling temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.2m/s, the one-roller speed is 1968m/min, the one-roller temperature is 85 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3955m/min, the two-roller temperature is 170 ℃, and the winding speed is 3869 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 106 ℃, and the time is 20 min;
the prepared self-curling elastic yarn has a three-dimensional curling shape, the curling shrinkage rate of the self-curling elastic yarn is 28%, the curling stability is 85%, the contraction elongation is 81%, the curling elastic recovery rate is 84%, the breaking strength is 3cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 38.3%, and the total titer is 127 dtex;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, polyester (main yarn) and hot melt silk are knitted into special yarn for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40;
(3) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(4) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric;
the gram weight of the prepared vamp fabric is 799g/m2The flow resistance is 0.26KPa s/m, the ratio ofThe washing size change rate in the machine direction was 0.9%, and the washing size change rate in the weft direction was-0.2%.
Example 8
A preparation method of a vamp fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing self-curling elastic yarn:
extruding a PBT melt with the intrinsic viscosity of 1.2dL/g from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) yarns according to an FDY process, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic yarns;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.6:2.5, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1:2.1:1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 4.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size; the spinneret plate is provided with a circle of 18 trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed at equal intervals, the pointing direction of the leaf I of one trilobal spinneret orifice deviates from the center of a circle by 20 degrees, the pointing direction of the leaf is taken as the reference direction, and the included angle between the pointing direction of the leaf I of the ith trilobal spinneret orifice adjacent to the pointing direction of the leaf I and the reference direction is I x 20 degrees clockwise;
the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 275 ℃, the cooling temperature is 25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.3m/s, the one-roller speed is 2000m/min, the one-roller temperature is 85 ℃, the two-roller speed is 4000m/min, the two-roller temperature is 170 ℃, and the winding speed is 3900 m/min;
the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 120 ℃, and the time is 20 min;
the prepared self-curling elastic yarn has a three-dimensional curling shape, the curling shrinkage rate of the self-curling elastic yarn is 28%, the curling stability is 85%, the contraction elongation is 82%, the curling elastic recovery rate is 84%, the breaking strength is 3cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 36%, and the total titer is 150 dtex;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, polyester (main yarn) and hot melt silk are knitted into special yarn for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40;
(3) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(4) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric;
the gram weight of the prepared vamp fabric is 800g/m2The flow resistance was 0.25KPa · s/m, the washing size change rate in the warp direction was 1.5%, and the washing size change rate in the weft direction was 1.5%.
Claims (8)
1. A preparation method of vamp fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) on a flat knitting machine, main yarns and hot fuses are knitted into special yarns for heelpieces by adopting an air covered yarn process; weaving the self-curling elastic silk into special yarn for the middle surface of the shoe; weaving the main yarn and the self-curling elastic yarn into special yarn for the toe surface by adopting an air yarn covering process;
(2) on a flat knitting machine, knitting the special yarn for the heelpiece, the special yarn for the middle surface and the special yarn for the toe surface into an integral flat knitting knitted vamp at one time;
(3) performing steam ironing and shaping treatment on the integrated flat knitting vamp to obtain a vamp fabric;
the gram weight of the vamp fabric is 700-800 g/m2The flow resistance is 0.25-0.30 KPa.s/m, and the washing size change rate of the warp direction and the weft direction is-2.0% -1.5%;
all self-curling elastic yarns were prepared as follows:
extruding a PBT melt from trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate, cooling by adopting circular blowing, preparing FDY (fully drawn yarn) filaments according to an FDY process, and performing relaxation heat treatment to prepare self-curling elastic filaments;
the cooling air speed in the FDY process is 1.80-2.30 m/s;
the length ratio of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.1-1.6: 2.5-3.0, the width ratio of the corresponding three leaves is 1: 1.6-2.1: 1, the length ratio of the shortest leaf to the width ratio is 3.5-4.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and on the same circle, the shortest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice points to each position separated by a certain angle, and 360-degree rotation change is completed in one circle.
2. The preparation method of the vamp fabric, according to claim 1, characterized in that the intrinsic viscosity of the PBT melt is 1.10-1.20 dL/g.
3. The method for preparing the vamp fabric according to claim 2, wherein other parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 270-275 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20-25 ℃, the speed of a first roller is 1800-2000 m/min, the temperature of a first roller is 80-85 ℃, the speed of a second roller is 3800-4000 m/min, the temperature of the second roller is 160-170 ℃, and the winding speed is 3710-3900 m/min.
4. The preparation method of the vamp fabric, according to claim 3, characterized in that the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 90-120 ℃ and the time is 20-30 min.
5. The method for preparing an upper fabric according to claim 4, wherein the self-curling elastic filaments have a three-dimensional curling shape.
6. The method for preparing the vamp fabric according to claim 5, wherein the self-curling elastic yarn has a curling shrinkage rate of 24-28%, a curling stability of 80-85%, a shrinkage elongation of 77-82%, and a curling elastic recovery rate of 79-84%.
7. The preparation method of the vamp fabric, according to claim 5, is characterized in that the self-curling elastic yarn has breaking strength of more than or equal to 2.7cN/dtex, elongation at break of 40.0 +/-4.0% and total fineness of 100-150 dtex.
8. The method for preparing the vamp fabric according to claim 1, wherein the main yarn is polyester, chinlon or cotton; in the special yarn for the heelpiece, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the thermal fuse is 70: 30; in the special yarn for the toe cap, the mass ratio of the main yarn to the self-curling elastic yarn is 60: 40.
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