CN110585034A - 一种抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN110585034A CN110585034A CN201910878293.6A CN201910878293A CN110585034A CN 110585034 A CN110585034 A CN 110585034A CN 201910878293 A CN201910878293 A CN 201910878293A CN 110585034 A CN110585034 A CN 110585034A
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水及其制备方法。所述的爽肤水包括以下组分：1,3‑丙二醇、辛甘醇、丁二醇、甘油、小分子量透明质酸钠、尿囊素、棕榈酰甘氨酸、乙酰基四肽‑40、乙酰基六肽‑37、天然植物油、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、羟基磷灰石、C20‑22醇磷酸酯(和)C20‑22醇、辛基/癸基葡糖苷、防腐剂、EDTA‑二钠，余量为去离子水。所述的爽肤水各成分配比科学、相互协调，具有显著的抗过敏、抗炎、镇静舒缓皮肤的功效，并且温和亲肤，性质稳定，安全无刺激，补水保湿效果佳，使肌肤水润光滑、有弹性。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水及其制备方法。
背景技术
敏感皮肤是皮肤的一种特殊状态，皮肤脆弱，抵抗力弱，受到外界刺激后容易出现红血丝，水肿、毛细血管扩张等症状，皮肤容易有瘙痒，刺痛、灼热，紧绷感等感觉。敏感肌肤的特征主要是表现为：季节转换、温度、湿度、风、日光、辐射皮肤，容易泛红、有瘙痒、刺痛和灼热感，甚至出现小红疹。使用护肤产品(包括洁面、保湿、化妆水、彩妆、防晒品等)会引发潮红、痒或是刺痛、灼热、瘙痒、脱屑等。洗脸后常感到皮肤微红，有刺痛感。中强度运动、情绪波动皮肤血管扩张、充血、发红。不适当的饮食如辛辣食品、酒精和过热的饮食都会造成皮肤血管扩张、充血、发红。敏感性肌肤的表皮层较薄，缺乏对紫外线的防御能力，容易老化，敏感性肌肤浅薄的角质层常常不能保持住足够的水分，无论是在夏天的冷气房中，或是在冬天干燥的气候中，具有这种肤质的人，会比一般人更敏锐地感觉到皮肤缺水、干燥，因而日常保养中加强保湿非常重要。
对于敏感肌皮肤的人在使用护肤保养品时，应使用浓度适中或偏低的产品，才较为妥当。还要尽量减少对敏感性皮肤的刺激。皮肤一旦出现干燥、脱屑或发红状况时，说明皮肤健康状况已亮起红灯。要让皮肤尽快复原，最好的方法就是减少刺激，不过度受风吹、日晒，不吃刺激性食物，然后再使用低敏系列产品，在减低伤害后，皮肤会自行恢复健康。
目前，市面上的爽肤水大多具有保湿美白的功效，然而这些爽肤水大多含有香料、酒精、重防腐剂的成分，很容易对肤质较薄的肌肤和容易对外部刺激产生敏感反应的肌肤造成负担。特别是酒精成分，使用后会令敏感皮肤出现发红现象。因此，有必要开发一种性质温和、具有抗敏舒缓、保湿作用且不含酒精、香料的爽肤水，满足市场的需求。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水及其制备方法。所述的爽肤水各成分配比科学、相互协调，具有显著的抗过敏、抗炎、镇静舒缓皮肤的功效，并且温和亲肤，性质稳定，安全无刺激，补水保湿效果佳，使肌肤水润光滑、有弹性。
本发明是通过以下技术方案予以实现的：
一种抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，包括以下重量百分比计的组分：1,3-丙二醇2～5％、辛甘醇1～4％、丁二醇2～5％、甘油2～5％、小分子量透明质酸钠0.2～1％、尿囊素0.1～1％、棕榈酰甘氨酸0.05～0.2％、乙酰基四肽-40 0.05～0.2％、乙酰基六肽-37 0.05～0.2％、天然植物油0.5～1.5％、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸0.5～2％、羟基磷灰石0.1～1％、C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22醇1～2％、辛基/癸基葡糖苷0.1～0.5％、防腐剂0.1～0.2％、EDTA-二钠0.01～0.03％，余量为去离子水。
优选，所述的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，包括以下重量百分比计的组分：1,3-丙二醇5％、辛甘醇3％、丁二醇4％、甘油4％、小分子量透明质酸钠0.6％、尿囊素0.6％、棕榈酰甘氨酸0.15％、乙酰基四肽-40 0.2％、乙酰基六肽-37 0.15％、天然植物油1％、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸2％、羟基磷灰石0.5％、C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22醇2％、辛基/癸基葡糖苷0.2％、防腐剂0.1％、EDTA-二钠0.02％，余量为去离子水。
所述的天然植物油为蓝蓟油和绿茶籽油以1:0.5～1的质量比组成。
优选，所述的天然植物油为蓝蓟油和绿茶籽油以1:1的质量比组成。
所述的防腐剂为德国舒美的K 350、K 900或K 940。其中，K 350的INCI名称为苯氧乙醇/羟苯甲酯/羟苯乙酯/乙基己基甘油；K 900的INCI名称为苯甲醇/乙基己基甘油/生育酚；K 940的INCI名称为苯甲醇/乙基己基甘油/苯氧乙醇。
所述的小分子量透明质酸分子量为3000～10100道尔顿。
本发明的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水是通过以下方法制备得到，该方法包括以下步骤：
S1：将去离子水、1,3-丙二醇、辛甘醇、丁二醇、甘油、小分子量透明质酸钠、尿囊素、羟基磷灰石、C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22醇、辛基/癸基葡糖苷加入搅拌锅内，均质8～10min，加热至75～85℃，搅拌至物料完全溶解；
S2：继续搅拌降温至40～50℃，加入棕榈酰甘氨酸、乙酰基四肽-40、乙酰基六肽-37、天然植物油、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸，搅拌至体系均匀；
S3：最后加入EDTA-二钠和防腐剂，搅拌均匀，即可出料，得到抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水。
本发明的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水蕴含多种抗敏舒缓活性因子包括棕榈酰甘氨酸、乙酰基四肽-40、天然植物油、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸和羟基磷灰石等，以及保湿因子包括1,3-丙二醇、辛甘醇、丁二醇、甘油、小分子量透明质酸钠、尿囊素、乙酰基六肽-37等，各组分相互作用，形成一个性质稳定，温和亲肤、无刺激的溶液体系，并协调发挥显著的抗过敏、抗炎、镇静舒缓皮肤，补水保湿功效。
配方中的棕榈酰甘氨酸可减少因慢性炎症造成的老化，恢复皮肤平衡；促进微血管生成，重现皮肤光泽；帮助胶原纤维网络结构的合成和排列，使皮肤恢复紧实。乙酰基四肽-40为抗红血丝肽，通过降低LL-37诱导产生的IL-6，IL-8的含量，缓解红斑和红疹症状，并可显著抑制胶原蛋白酶活性，减少胶原蛋白的降解，改善皮肤的粗糙度。乙酰基六肽-37为水通道蛋白细胞保湿剂，能够有效地提高人体内AQP3在mRNA水平的表达量，从而提高皮肤中AQP3的含量，具有很好的保湿活性，还能促进人体真皮成纤维细胞中I型胶原蛋白的合成及角化细胞的增殖，与棕榈酰甘氨酸合用时提高肌肤弹性，紧致肌肤的效果佳。四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸保护皮肤免疫系统，触发提升热休克蛋白反应速度，保护细胞膜和DNA，平抑和修复皮肤发炎过敏症状。羟基磷灰石保护皮肤水润度和抵御外界环境的不良因素，降低肌肤的敏感性，维持天然的皮肤再生和皮肤修复过程，保持皮肤年轻态。蓝蓟油源自蓝蓟种籽，能舒缓肌肤敏感症状，用后感觉清爽舒适，可促进细胞再生，作用于炎症，促使肌肤紧致。绿茶籽油源自绿茶种籽，具有显著的消炎抗氧化效果，与蓝蓟油合用，抗敏消炎，镇静肌肤的效果更佳。尿囊素为抗炎性保湿剂，并可溶解角质，促进细胞再生。小分子量透明质酸钠能有效渗透皮肤，促进皮肤中透明质酸的合成、角质形成细胞及成纤维细胞的增殖，起到保湿、抗皱与抗衰老的作用。辛基/癸基葡糖苷为绿色的增溶剂，可提高天然植物油在溶液中的溶解性。C20～22烷基磷酸酯和C20～22脂肪醇为多功能阴离子乳化剂，可给皮肤带来“丝绒般”的独特质感。1,3-丙二醇、辛甘醇、丁二醇均为辅助性保湿剂，且具有一定的抗敏消炎效果，与此同时，这些多元醇有利于提高棕榈酰甘氨酸、乙酰基四肽-40、乙酰基六肽-37在溶液中的稳定性。
本发明抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水配方中含有一定量的小分子活性肽、氨基酸衍生物成分，以及无机物成分(羟基磷灰石)，如何保证溶液体系的稳定性，避免在贮存过程中析出沉淀、发生分层现象，是一个难题。本发明人通过大量的试验发现，使用1,3-丙二醇、辛甘醇、丁二醇、C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22醇、辛基/癸基葡糖苷等辅助成分，可使溶液形成一个稳定的体系，在长期贮存过程中不会产生沉淀析出。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：
(1)本发明的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水含有棕榈酰甘氨酸、乙酰基四肽-40、天然植物油、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、羟基磷灰石、乙酰基六肽-37、尿囊素等多种功效成分，协调发挥显著的抗过敏、抗炎、镇静舒缓皮肤、补水保湿的功效，不仅能消除各类化妆品引起的过敏反应，还能恢复皮肤防御系统，有效抵抗因环境污染引起的皮肤不良反应，降低皮肤敏感度。
(2)本发明的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水性质温和稳定、安全有效，没有皮肤刺激性，皮肤易于吸收，使用后脸部清爽不粘腻，且制备方法简单，条件可控，工艺稳定。
具体实施方式
以下实施例是对本发明的进一步说明，而不是对本发明的限制。
以下实施例配方中的成分，如无特别说明，均为市售产品。其中，尿囊素CAS号为97-59-6，购自广州市雨露化工有限公司；棕榈酰甘氨酸CAS号为2441-41-0，购自上海阿拉丁生化科技股份有限公司；乙酰基四肽-40、乙酰基六肽-37均购自成都云希化工有限公司；小分子量透明质酸钠购自山东辰光生物科技有限公司；四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸CAS号为96702-03-3，购自武汉欣欣佳丽生物科技有限公司；蓝蓟油购自广州华瑟科技有限公司；绿茶籽油购自江西宝林天然香料有限公司；羟基磷灰石为德国默克生产的Calcium(132204)，购自广州市百好博有限公司；C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22购自广州启正化工科技有限公司；辛基/癸基葡糖苷(APG-0810)购自广州承皓贸易有限公司；甘油硬脂酸酯(和)PEG-100硬脂酸酯购自广州市碧盛贸易有限公司。
实施例1-5抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水的制备
实施例1-5抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水的制备包括下表所示重量百分比计的组分：
制备步骤：
S1：将去离子水、1,3-丙二醇、辛甘醇、丁二醇、甘油、小分子量透明质酸钠、尿囊素、羟基磷灰石、C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22醇、辛基/癸基葡糖苷加入搅拌锅内，均质8min，加热至80℃，搅拌至物料完全溶解；
S2：继续搅拌降温至45℃，加入棕榈酰甘氨酸、乙酰基四肽-40、乙酰基六肽-37、蓝蓟油、绿茶籽油、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸，搅拌至体系均匀；
S3：最后加入EDTA-二钠和K 900，搅拌均匀，即可出料，得到抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水。
对比例1-5抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水的制备
对比例1-5抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水的制备包括下表所示重量百分比计的组分：
制备步骤参考上述实施例2-6。
试验例一、人体皮肤斑贴试验
参照卫生部发布的2015版《化妆品卫生规范》中“人体皮肤斑贴试验”的相关要求和测定方法对本发明实施例2-6、对比例1-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水进行测试，分别在0h、6h、12h、24h、48h观察皮肤反应，所有志愿受试者的实验结果均为阴性结果，未出现皮肤不良反应。表明本发明提供的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水无刺激性，安全性高。
试验例二、稳定性试验
(1)耐热、耐寒试验
分别将实施例2、对比例4-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水封装于透明化妆品瓶中，于4℃的冰箱冷藏一周左右观察有无分层现象。并于55℃的恒温箱内放置24h，观察有无分层、变味等现象。
耐热试验结果显示，实施例2制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水没有出现沉淀物，没有发生分层、变味现象，而对比例4-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水样品均出现沉淀物，存在分层、变味现象；耐寒试验结果显示，实施例2制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水无明显性状差异，而对比例4-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水出现分层现象。
(2)离心试验
分别将实施例2、对比例4-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水封装于具塞试管中，于3000r/min，离心20min，观察有无分层现象。
结果显示，实施例2制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水无明显性状差异，而对比例4-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水出现沉淀物。
(3)室温放置试验
分别将实施例2、对比例4-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水置于化妆品瓶中，室温静置考察12个月，观察有无分层现象，用后感觉有无变化，气味有无变化。
结果显示，实施例2制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水室温下放置12个月无明显性状差异，无异味，使用感觉无变化，而对比例4-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水在室温下放置4个月后开始出现沉淀物，并随着时间推移，逐渐发生分层现象，12个月后有异味。
以上结果表明，本发明通过使用1,3-丙二醇、辛甘醇、丁二醇、C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22醇、辛基/癸基葡糖苷等辅助成分，可使抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水溶液形成一个稳定的体系，在长期贮存过程中不会产生沉淀析出。
试验例三、抗敏舒缓效果评价试验
测试人群：选取年龄为25-45岁的志愿受试对象120人，男女各半，所有志愿受试者身体健康情况良好，且均签署了全面的知情同意文件。将志愿受试者分为10个组，分别为试验1-5组和对比1-5组，每组12人。
所有受试者以手臂内侧1cm2面积大小作为测试区域，滴加1-2滴0.2％组胺溶液，使用超声波导入仪进行促渗。涂抹0.2％组胺溶液1min左右，受试对象出现了瘙痒、发红、水肿等现象，其中试验1-5组的受试者分别使用实施例2-6制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水进行涂抹，对比1-5组的受试者分别使用对比例1-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水进行涂抹，观察受试者瘙痒、发红、水肿症状的消退情况，评价标准为：1)显效：无瘙痒感、红斑消退、水肿消失；2)好转：轻微瘙痒感、轻微红斑(勉强可见)、轻微水肿(勉强可见)；3)基本痊愈：中度瘙痒、中度红斑、中度水肿(皮肤隆起轮廓清晰)；4)无效：重度瘙痒，抓扰止痒，严重红斑(紫红色)、重度水肿(皮肤隆起1mm以上)。结果见表1。
表1抗敏舒缓效果评价结果
表1显示，志愿受试者分别使用实施例2-6制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，瘙痒、发红、水肿等症状均得到明显改善，总有效率达到100％，明显优于对比例1-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，并以实施例2制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水抗敏舒缓效果最佳，由此可见，本发明抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水具有显著的抗敏舒缓效果，可有效抵抗组胺引致的过敏症状。
试验例四、保湿效果评价试验
选取年龄为30-50岁的女性志愿受试对象60人，所有志愿受试者身体健康情况良好，且均签署了全面的知情同意文件。将志愿受试者分为6个组，分别为试验1组和对比1-5组，每组10人。
使用方法：早晚洁面后，取爽肤水适量，涂抹于脸部，均匀拍打并按摩至吸收，其中试验1组的受试者使用实施例2制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水进行涂抹，对比1-5组的受试者分别使用对比例1-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水进行涂抹。采用皮肤测试仪(Derma-ExpertMC760)定期跟踪调查每位志愿受试者皮肤的含水量变化，并评价受试者的使用感受。结果见下表2和3。
表2保湿效果评价结果
注：D0为第0天测得的皮肤含水量，D14第14天测得的皮肤含水量，D28为第28天测得的皮肤含水量。与试验1组比较，*P＜0.05，**P＜0.01。
表3使用感受评分结果
| 组别 | 舒缓性 | 滋润性 | 保湿性 | 修复性 | 细腻感 | 清爽度 |
| 试验1组 | 8.2 | 9.2 | 8.8 | 8.0 | 9.0 | 9.2 |
| 对比1组 | 6.8 | 7.2 | 6.9 | 6.8 | 8.7 | 8.6 |
| 对比2组 | 7.4 | 8.6 | 7.6 | 7.2 | 8.6 | 8.0 |
| 对比3组 | 6.2 | 8.0 | 7.2 | 6.4 | 8.2 | 7.2 |
| 对比4组 | 5.8 | 6.5 | 6.2 | 6.8 | 6.6 | 6.8 |
| 对比5组 | 6.0 | 6.8 | 6.6 | 6.9 | 6.2 | 7.2 |
注：总分为10分，9-10分表示很好，非常满意；7-9分表示较好；5-7分表示可以接受，5分以下为不好，不能接受。
表2显示，本发明实施例2制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水具有较佳的补水保湿效果，可显著提高肌肤的含水量。与实施例2比较，对比例1-5制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水的补水保湿效果均显示不同程度的减弱，表明本发明抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水配方中各成分相互协调，发挥较佳的保湿效果。
表3显示，志愿受试者对本发明实施例2制得的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水的舒缓性、滋润性、保湿性、修复性、细腻感、清爽度均具有较佳的使用感受，表明本发明抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水舒缓效果明显、保湿性、滋养性较好，使用时感觉清凉舒适，用后皮肤弹性良好，有舒缓、保湿、水嫩、细腻的效果。
以上仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出的是，上述优选实施方式不应视为对本发明的限制，本发明的保护范围应当以权利要求所限定的范围为准。对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明的精神和范围内，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。
Claims (7)
1.一种抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，其特征在于，包括以下重量百分比计的组分：1,3-丙二醇2～5％、辛甘醇1～4％、丁二醇2～5％、甘油2～5％、小分子量透明质酸钠0.2～1％、尿囊素0.1～1％、棕榈酰甘氨酸0.05～0.2％、乙酰基四肽-40 0.05～0.2％、乙酰基六肽-37 0.05～0.2％、天然植物油0.5～1.5％、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸0.5～2％、羟基磷灰石0.1～1％、C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22醇1～2％、辛基/癸基葡糖苷0.1～0.5％、防腐剂0.1～0.2％、EDTA-二钠0.01～0.03％，余量为去离子水。
2.根据权利要求1所述的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，其特征在于，包括以下重量百分比计的组分：1,3-丙二醇5％、辛甘醇3％、丁二醇4％、甘油4％、小分子量透明质酸钠0.6％、尿囊素0.6％、棕榈酰甘氨酸0.15％、乙酰基四肽-40 0.2％、乙酰基六肽-37 0.15％、天然植物油1％、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸2％、羟基磷灰石0.5％、C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22醇2％、辛基/癸基葡糖苷0.2％、防腐剂0.1％、EDTA-二钠0.02％，余量为去离子水。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，其特征在于，所述的天然植物油为蓝蓟油和绿茶籽油以1:0.5～1的质量比组成。
4.根据权利要求3所述的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，其特征在于，所述的天然植物油为蓝蓟油和绿茶籽油以1:1的质量比组成。
5.根据权利要求1或2所述的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，其特征在于，所述的防腐剂为德国舒美的K 350、K 900或K 940。
6.根据权利要求1或2所述的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水，其特征在于，所述的小分子量透明质酸分子量为3000～10100道尔顿。
7.一种制备权利要求1所述的抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水的方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
S1：将去离子水、1,3-丙二醇、辛甘醇、丁二醇、甘油、小分子量透明质酸钠、尿囊素、羟基磷灰石、C20-22醇磷酸酯(和)C20-22醇、辛基/癸基葡糖苷加入搅拌锅内，均质8～10min，加热至75～85℃，搅拌至物料完全溶解；
S2：继续搅拌降温至40～50℃，加入棕榈酰甘氨酸、乙酰基四肽-40、乙酰基六肽-37、天然植物油、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸，搅拌至体系均匀；
S3：最后加入EDTA-二钠和防腐剂，搅拌均匀，即可出料，得到抗敏舒缓保湿爽肤水。
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| CN114931532A (zh) * | 2022-05-16 | 2022-08-23 | 杭州槿美生物科技有限公司 | 一款以几种植物提取物为活性成分的舒缓镇敏的组合物 |
| CN115607473A (zh) * | 2022-10-24 | 2023-01-17 | 周嘉奇 | 一种抗敏舒缓爽肤水及其制备方法 |
| CN115715746A (zh) * | 2022-11-21 | 2023-02-28 | 广州古泉生物科技有限公司 | 一种用于抗衰祛皱的超分子多肽组合物及其制备方法 |
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| CN114931532A (zh) * | 2022-05-16 | 2022-08-23 | 杭州槿美生物科技有限公司 | 一款以几种植物提取物为活性成分的舒缓镇敏的组合物 |
| CN115607473A (zh) * | 2022-10-24 | 2023-01-17 | 周嘉奇 | 一种抗敏舒缓爽肤水及其制备方法 |
| CN115715746A (zh) * | 2022-11-21 | 2023-02-28 | 广州古泉生物科技有限公司 | 一种用于抗衰祛皱的超分子多肽组合物及其制备方法 |
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