CN1104522C - Method of production of woven/knitted fabrics using sericin fixation yarn and woven/knitted fabric produced by method - Google Patents
Method of production of woven/knitted fabrics using sericin fixation yarn and woven/knitted fabric produced by method Download PDFInfo
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- CN1104522C CN1104522C CN97182338A CN97182338A CN1104522C CN 1104522 C CN1104522 C CN 1104522C CN 97182338 A CN97182338 A CN 97182338A CN 97182338 A CN97182338 A CN 97182338A CN 1104522 C CN1104522 C CN 1104522C
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Abstract
The present invention provides a method for manufacturing woven fabrics or knitted fabrics, which comprises the following steps that a sericin fixation method of raw silk and a triazine framework cross-linking reaction are used for modifying woven fabrics or knitted fabrics to improve the shrink resistance, the wrinkle resistance and the shape stability, and then, sericin is removed by a special boiling method. The method for manufacturing woven fabrics or knitted fabrics comprises the following steps that a sericin fixation method of natural silk is used for finishing and treating raw silk and/or cellulose fibers; the finished / treated raw silk and/or the finished / treated cellulose fibers are doubled and twisted together; the doubled and twisted yarn is woven or knitted, and the woven fabrics or the knitted fabrics for forming piece goods are soaked in a dye vat for swelling; then, the woven fabrics or the knitted fabrics which are swollen in the dye vat are boiled off by enzyme, and thereby, the woven fabrics or the knitted fabrics which have favorable shrink resistance, favorable wrinkle resistance and favorable shape stability are provided.
Description
Use itself is that the technology that the real silk of natural material is made fabric is inherited traditionally.These fabrics have unique texture, fabulous gloss and pliability, especially have gas permeability and water imbibition.
Gauze (line) partly is made up of a pair of fibroin, and the fibroin part covers by silk gum is outer.So-called " silk system product " is itself to be that the silk gum and the woven or knitting gauze of having removed silk gum of colloid albumen is produced by removing from gauze (line) surface.Can think, itself be that the fibroin of one of composition of system product is made up of many former (little) fiber molecule that is together with each other by ester bond.Since the bonding force of fibrillation molecule a little less than, therefore a silk system product exists variety of issue.Also fully scientifically do not studied and in addition a large amount of different unknown problems as the silk fiber of natural material.
Identical situation also is present in equally among the cellulose fibre of being made by natural material (comprising the cellulose fibre yarn).
The twist yarn that the present invention handled and put in order gauze, its conjugate fibre of cellulose fiber peacekeeping by the silk gum fixation of using the structure that forms triazine or triazine key in fiber improves their crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.We will show the characteristic of the woven or knit goods of being made by these novel yarns and fibre now.
People have pointed out that various arrangements and processing method implement the fixedly method of raw silk silk gum.For these methods have been developed a large amount of different solvents.Yet, itself be that but feel is hard and gloss is low for the silk gum of gluey albumen.If with raw silk dyeing, silk gum falls dissolved so, makes to be difficult to raw silk as the clothes fiber.
Therefore, the purposes of silk gum fixed raw silk only limits to be referred to as the specialty fibers goods of " kiginu " (unscoured silk (not kiering silk)), for example the fabric of silk system organza (silk organsee), chiffon, bolting silk and carbaso (Fujiette).They have with from wherein having dissolved different outward appearance, feel and the features of outward appearance, feel and characteristic woven or that knit goods had that the fibroin silk of removing silk gum is made.
Some silk gum fixations have been used and have been listed in following material:
1. aldehydes
Formaldehyde, glutaraldehyde, dialdehyde starch, acrolein
2. heavy metal salt
Chrome alum chromalum, bichromate+reductant, aluminium vanadium, acrolein
3. tannins
4. synthetic resin
Melamine (acyl) amine, dihydroxymethyl ethylene-urea (DMEU), epoxides
5. Cyanuric Chloride and dichlorotriazine type REACTIVE DYES class
Up to the present, it is the most practical using the method for formalin, glutaraldehyde, chromic salts and Cyanuric Chloride and dichlorotriazine type REACTIVE DYES class in the above in the verified described silk gum fixation.
Yet, because formalin has great influence to human body, cause injury to people, it is not preferred therefore using the method for formalin.Use the method for chromic salts because its industrial waste may cause environmental pollution, and epoxy resin also to exist its service behaviour unstable and may cause problems such as influence resemble the skin disease to human body.Therefore, aforesaid method is not to be best method.
The present invention adopts the silk gum fixation of the triazine skeleton that depends on the formation Cyanuric Chloride that itself does not have the problems referred to above.
Verified, in the method that forms the triazine skeleton, silk gum reacts with effective and efficient manner and fibroin.Can think that the triazine skeleton in the silk gum fixation is (the examining patent disclosure Tokkosho 40-8050 number with reference to Japan) represented by following chemical structural formula:
Dichlorotriazine type REACTIVE DYES one chlorotriazine type REACTIVE DYES
Disclosed invention (Japanese laid-open patent discloses Tokkaihei 4-300395) is the improvement of Japan having been examined 40-8050 number invention of patent disclosure Tokkosho in No. the 2559302nd, Japan Patent.
In brief, Japan examined disclosed invention among patent disclosure Tokkosho 40-8050 number proposed to be used in raw silk fixing silk gum in case common kiering (use hot water), soap boiling is experienced and the alkaline scouring process in the silk gum fixation that do not dissolve of silk gum.The invention that No. the 255 9302, Japan Patent has proposed to put in order arrangement fibroin (silk) method that silk gum wherein has been removed.
The silk gum fixation of using the REACTIVE DYES of cyanurate or derivatives thereof or cyanuric acid derivative is to have examined among patent disclosure Tokkosho 40-8050 number disclosed in Japan.As mentioned above, silk fabrics and silk fiber are to cover the lip-deep of them by silk gum.If they are handled without the silk gum fixation, silk gum will be under the silk fabrics dissolving in soap or alkaline scouring process so.Yet, when the feel of fabric is harder, preferably use special fabric, organza (organsee) or drapery.Therefore, be necessary that fixedly silk gum is so that make it be difficult to dissolving in soap and alkaline scouring.The state-run sericulture and (the National Institute ofAgricultural Science of Sericultural and Insects of insect research of agricultural science institute of agricultural and Ministry of Forestry's administration, Ministry of Agricultural andForestry) carried out the research and development of material and their properties of materials carried out reporting (with reference to the 47th Nissan Konto proceeding with texture unique, that depend on silk gum fixed fabric characteristic, 1996,82-83).
This report declares, fabric is by using a chloro-and dichlorotriazine type REACTIVE DYES produced and their various characteristics measured.Consider wrinkle resistant effect, along with the residual degree rising of silk gum, the recovery ratio of gauffer diminishes.
Be entitled as " be used for modification silk system product component and be used for the method for modification " checking process of No. the 2559302nd, the Japan Patent of (Composition formodifying of silk products and processes for the modification), above-mentioned Japan has examined patent disclosure Tokkosho and has been cited as a reference for 40-8050 number.In the present invention, treat that the material of modification is called as piece dyeing type silk system product, it is colored after removing silk gum again, and this is the silk system product of only being made up of fibroin.Why method of the present invention be limited to piece dyeing type silk system product with avoid Japan examined product among patent disclosure Tokkosho 40-8050 number intrinsic problem? we think the reasons are as follows: in order to form the triazine skeleton, silk gum fixedly is to be added among the raw silk and to use tetrachloro-ethylene to handle as solvent by the Cyanuric Chloride with 1% weight ratio.
Yet,, therefore can not use cold water because Cyanuric Chloride is insoluble to cold water.Tetrachloro-ethylene, 1: 1: 2: 2 tetrachloroethanes and analog can be as its solvents.Their derivative is owing to the penetrating odor that has resemble the chloroform is difficult to obtain use.Have been found that for raw silk the silk gum that fixedly makes of silk gum is undissolved in common soap and alkaline scouring process.The fact like this that content recited above is verified, that is, if silk gum is not dissolved fully, thereby the recovery capability of gauffer will die down and keeps intact so.Therefore, the invention that No. the 2559302nd, Japan Patent is by changing the friction that takes place with the cross-linking reaction of fibroin in the manufacture process of the silk fabrics of only being made up of fibroin, and wherein silk gum is dissolved in common soap and alkaline scouring process falls.
The present invention is used for overcoming problems of the prior art recited above.The method that the purpose of this invention is to provide the woven or knit goods of the manufacturing that comprises the following steps: knit the glue fixation by raw silk, adopt triazine skeleton cross-linking reaction to come the woven or knit goods of modification, use special kiering step to remove silk gum then to improve its crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.
In other words, can not dissolve 100% silk gum by common kiering from woven or knit goods through the modification of silk gum fixation.Therefore, comprise by inventor's exploitation and in Japanese patent application (Japanese patent application relevant flat 8-61825 number) with International Patent Application PCT/JP/96/01019 novel unique kiering method of disclosed swelling and enzyme kiering step be used and dissolve silk gum.
A first aspect of the present invention provides the method for the woven or knit goods of the manufacturing that comprises the following steps: by using the arrangement of silk gum fixation and handling raw silk and/or cellulose fibre; To and twist and be in the same place through arrangement and treated raw silk and/or cellulose fibre doubling; Woven or knitting through doubling and through twisting yarn make fabric; By the woven or knit goods that will make cloth being immersed in the dye vat and with its swelling; Use the woven or knit goods of enzyme kiering swelling in dye vat then, thereby make woven or knit goods has crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.
Woven or knitting before, the silk gum fixation is used to handle raw silk and/or cellulose fibre, this makes yarn be in the same place by being tightly twisted in doubling and twisting step, causes woven or knit goods has fabulous crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.By comprising by the swelling of inventor's exploitation and the special kiering method of enzyme kiering step, from the woven or silk gum of knit goods except that a part (or extremely thin one deck) of removing silk gum, fibroin part is almost come out, real silk intrinsic characteristic just utilized.On the other hand, the part (or extremely thin one deck) of the silk gum of woven or knit goods still be retained in the fibroin part around to keep fabulous crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.
Manufacturing of the present invention method woven or knit goods has following feature: it had comprised before described woven or knitting step the step to raw silk or cellulose dyeing.
Manufacturing of the present invention method woven or knit goods also has following feature: the arrangement of described use silk gum fixation and treatment step are to carry out with cyanurate, its derivative or the REACTIVE DYES of cyanuric acid derivative.
Manufacturing of the present invention method woven or knit goods further has following feature: it is used for the arrangement kiering step of the enzyme of clean deposition on woven or knit goods after being included in enzyme kiering step, and wherein softens simultaneously and anti-water treatment in arrangement kiering step.
Manufacturing of the present invention method woven or knit goods also has following feature: it is included in enzyme carries out after the step of kiering through the woven of kiering or step that knit goods dyes.
A second aspect of the present invention provides the woven or knit goods of the method manufacturing of or knit goods woven by manufacturing of the present invention.
In the third aspect, the present invention has following feature: yarn woven or knitting after put in order and handle by the silk gum fixation, and in a first aspect of the present invention, yarn woven or knitting before put in order and handle by the silk gum fixation.
A fourth aspect of the present invention provides the woven or knit goods of the method manufacturing of or knit goods woven by the manufacturing in third aspect present invention.
In aspect the 5th, the present invention has following feature: raw silk and cellulose fibre the conjugation twist yarn be used as warp thread or weft yarn, or both, raw silk and/or cellulose fibre then are used to a first aspect of the present invention.
A sixth aspect of the present invention provides the woven or knit goods of the method manufacturing of or knit goods woven by the manufacturing in fifth aspect present invention.
Fig. 1 is the flow chart of embodiment that shows the method for woven or knit goods constructed in accordance;
Fig. 2 is the flow chart of another embodiment that shows the method for woven or knit goods constructed in accordance;
Fig. 3 is the figure that is presented at the absolute value of gauffer recovery ratio in the wrinkle resistant test;
Fig. 4 shows that gauffer recovers than time dependent figure;
Fig. 5 is the figure that is presented at the absolute value of gauffer recovery ratio in the wrinkle resistant test;
Fig. 6 shows that gauffer recovers than time dependent figure;
Fig. 7 is the figure that is presented at the absolute value of gauffer recovery ratio in the wrinkle resistant test;
Fig. 8 shows that gauffer recovers than time dependent figure;
Fig. 9 is the figure that is presented at the absolute value of gauffer recovery ratio in the wrinkle resistant test; With
Figure 10 shows that gauffer recovers than time dependent figure.
Now we will describe the raw silk that utilizes silk gum fixing according to the present invention, their conjugation doubling of cellulose fiber peacekeeping in detail and/or twisting the yarn manufacturing have the method for woven or knit goods of fabulous crease and shrink resistance and shape stability and the woven or knit goods of making by the method.
As shown in Figure 1, manufacturing according to the present invention method woven or knit goods consists essentially of following steps: be ready to thread material and (step 1), use the arrangement of silk gum fixation and handle yarn (step 2), doubling and/or twist yarn that ((step 4), swelling is woven or knit goods (step 5) and the woven or knit goods (step 6) with enzyme kiering (coming unstuck) for step 3), woven or hosiery yarns.
Thread material can comprise raw silk, cellulose fibre and conjugation twist yarn thereof.Thread material is put in order and is handled by the silk gum fixation.The silk gum fixation comprises the whole bag of tricks recited above.Preferred use resemble that Japan has examined patent disclosure Tokkosho 40-8050 number and Japan Patent the 2559302nd in the method for REACTIVE DYES employed cyanurate and derivative or the cyanuric acid derivative.
To handle through doubling and twisting by raw silk and/or cellulose fibre that the silk gum fixation is put in order and handled.For example and since silk gum be fixed on raw silk fibroin part around, therefore this raw silk has the advantage that its yarn can be tightly twisted.The yarn of these doublings and/or twisting as weft yarn and/or warp yarn, decorative pattern yarn so that they are by woven or knitting.Thereby this woven or knit goods has fabulous crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.
Under this condition, owing to woven or knit goods have the silk gum that anchors on the fibroin wicking surface, therefore, their hard and shortage gloss and flexibilities.So, in order to remove silk gum, by inventor exploitation, comprise that the special kiering method of swelling and enzyme kiering step is implemented, cause by removing the silk gum the part (or extremely thin one deck) except the silk gum of woven or knit goods, the fibroin part comes out basically.On the other hand, the part (or extremely thin one deck) of the silk gum of woven or knit goods still be retained in the fibroin part around to keep the fabulous crease and shrink resistance and the shape stability of woven or knit goods.
(can carry out staining procedure before the step 4), silk gum fixation best and step 2 is synchronous in woven or knitting step.This is based on the following fact: if dyeing is finished after silk gum is fixing, can finish dyeing in a kind of mode of even grace so.Replace woven or knitting before carry out yarn dyeing or except woven or knitting before carry out the yarn dyeing, also can after the step 6 of enzyme kiering, finish staining procedure through the woven or knit goods of kiering.
Around the fibroin part, remove basically owing to be positioned at the surface of woven or knit goods and the silk gum on the reverse side, therefore, can be advantageously woven or knit goods be dyeed in the mode of grace.
Being used for clean deposition can finish after the step 6 of enzyme kiering in the arrangement kiering step of woven or enzyme above the knit goods.Softening and anti-water treatment preferably can combine and carry out among this arrangement kiering step.
Now, in conjunction with Fig. 2 the manufacturing of the 3rd embodiment of the present invention method woven or knit goods is described.
The invention is characterized in, arrangement with handle yarn by woven become or be knitted into fabric after finish by use silk gum fixation, and the invention is characterized in of first above-mentioned embodiment, yarn woven or knitting before by using the silk gum fixation to put in order and handle.In brief, method woven according to the manufacturing of the present embodiment or knit goods consists essentially of the following step: wovenly and knitting (step 11), put and handle (step 12), swelling fabric (step 13) and the woven or knit goods (step 14) with the enzyme kiering in order by using the silk gum fixation.
By using raw silk or cellulose fibre or its conjugation doubling and twist yarn, and through elephant immersion, drying, coiling, twisting first, doubling and twisting and twist at last and formalize the well-known step of routine, make woven or knit goods.Woven or knit goods is to put in order and handle by the silk gum fixation of using raw silk.The swelling of arrangement, processing, fabric, with the institute of enzyme kiering, dyeing and arrangement kiering in steps can with first embodiment recited above identical in steps.(example and comparative example)
Prepared the synthetic threads (step 1) of the doubling and the twisting of raw silk and raw silk and cellulose fibre below.
A) 31D/2 raw silk yarn;
2 (Z1800t/m) tightly twist yarn (S1800t/m)
B) 31D/6 raw silk yarn;
2 (Z1800t/m) * 3 (S600t/m) doubled yarns
C) 21D/6 raw silk yarn;
2SZ (600t/m) * 3 filling SZ21D (2800t/m)
D) 21D/3 raw silk yarn * SILMAX (artificial silk) 75D SZ1600t/m
E) 21D/3 raw silk yarn * Cupula (Benberg) 80D SZ1600t/m
Yarn is a) to d) wind up with the form of I-shaped frame, tapered bobbin and oblate cylindricality bobbin.
Twisting and yarn that reel are immersed among the dye vat so that it is carried out fixing handle (step 2) of silk gum.
On the other hand, yarn a), d) and e) be spun into warp thread.
Because wherein the dissolved fibroin gauze line that falls of silk gum has interfibrillar weak hydrogen bond, therefore, fibrillation is easy to be separated when fibroin gauze line is subjected to denuding, and causes the fracture of fiber.Thus, it is woven to carry out high speed.
Therefore, by using silk gum fixation according to the new method of making woven or knit goods, the yarn (step 3), and it is woven to carry out high speed when avoiding producing scratch of being in the same place with being twisted by doubling in the protection fibroin.In case implement the silk gum fixation, silk gum just can not obtain dissolving by common soap or alkaline scouring.Therefore, silk gum must by inventor exploitation, ((the special kiering method of step 6) is dissolved for step 5) and enzyme kiering step to comprise the swelling step.In step 5, make the fabric swelling by fabric being immersed in alkaline sodium bicarbonate (resemble solvent RASEN POWERI or the II and be dissolved in wherein the hot water) solution, increase the volume of yarn.In step 6, use resembles the enzyme of the decomposed silk gum ALCALAZE and the SEARIASE fabric is handled to remove silk gum, puts kiering subsequently in order and handles.
Table 1 has shown the result of the shrinkage ratio test that each following fabric is done, test is by Kyoto-fu Orimon, (the Aza Tanba that Shidosho finishes, Mineyamamachi, Naka-gun, Kyoto-tu/Tetsu Kobayashi is responsible for test): Fig. 3 and 4 has shown that respectively the absolute value and the gauffer of gauffer recovery ratio in wrinkle resistant test recover than time dependent situation.Test is carried out under the following conditions:
1. measure shrinkage ratio according to JIS L1042C.
2. carry out wrinkle resistant test according to JIS L1059D (Sanrei method).
Wrinkling condition: temperature: 24 ℃, humidity: the time interval 70%: 1 hour, load: 6Kg.
Recover than measurement 3,10,30,60 and 180 minutes time the wrinkling after.
Sample number: 4
B. warp thread 31D/2 tightly twists yarn (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum);
Weft yarn 31D/6 doubled yarn (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum); 21D/6 bottom weft (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum).
Tightly twist the satin of yarn
(common soap or alkaline scouring)
C. warp thread 31D/2 tightly twists yarn (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum);
The yarn of weft yarn 31D/6 plying (cyanurate, the yarn that silk gum is fixing); 21D/6 bottom weft (cyanurate, the yarn that silk gum is fixing).
Tightly twist the satin of yarn
(special kiering; Swelling and use the enzyme kiering)
D. warp thread 31D/2 tightly twists yarn (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum);
Weft yarn 31D/6 doubled yarn (cyanurate, the yarn that silk gum is fixing); 21D/6 bottom weft (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum).
Tightly twist the satin of yarn
(special kiering; Swelling and enzyme kiering)
E. with the identical yarn (except the high pressure kiering) of those yarns among the C
(special kiering; Swelling and use the enzyme kiering)
Above-mentioned yarn is to weave with the rotating speed that per minute 126 changes with the weaving loom (Jacquard) that Kabushiki-Kaisha Tsudakoma company makes.In all tests, 31D/6 tightly twists yarn (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum) usually as warp thread.The result of contraction and gauffer test shows that woven or knit goods produced according to the invention (sample C, D, E) has comparison, and it carries out the much better crease and shrink resistance of crease and shrink resistance of the piece dyeing fabric (sample B) of common soap or alkaline scouring.Verified, fabulous result handles acquisition by weft yarn only being carried out the silk gum fixation.
Similarly, prepare silk gum wherein and be reduced to 24% the yarn that comes unstuck (ripe yarn), and the satin that tightly twists the yarn that comes unstuck is to come out with the rotating speed that the weaving loom (Jacquard) that Kabusiki Kaisha Thudakoma company makes changes with the every clock 126 this yarn production of weaving.Table 2 has shown the result who every kind of fabric is carried out the shrinkage ratio test.Fig. 5 and 6 has shown that respectively the absolute value and the gauffer of gauffer recovery ratio in wrinkle resistant test recover than time dependent situation.
F. warp thread 31D/6 tightly twists the yarn that comes unstuck (through that come unstuck and woven or knitting subsequently yarn)
Weft yarn 31D/6 doubled yarn (through that come unstuck and woven or knitting subsequently yarn); 21D/6 bottom weft (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum)
(common soap or alkaline scouring)
G. warp thread 31D/2 tightly twists the yarn that comes unstuck (through that come unstuck and woven or knitting subsequently yarn)
Weft yarn 31D/6 doubled yarn (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum); 21D/6 bottom weft (not making the fixing yarn of handling of silk gum)
(common soap or alkaline scouring; The high pressure kiering)
H. warp thread 31D/2 tightly twists the yarn that comes unstuck (through that come unstuck and woven or knitting subsequently yarn)
Weft yarn 31D/6 doubled yarn (yarn that silk gum is fixing); 21D/6 bottom weft (yarn that silk gum is fixing)
(special kiering; Swelling and enzyme kiering)
I. warp thread 31D/2 tightly twists the yarn that comes unstuck (through that come unstuck and woven or knitting subsequently yarn)
Weft yarn 31D/6 doubled yarn (through that come unstuck and woven or knitting subsequently yarn); 21D/6 bottom weft (cyanurate, the yarn that silk gum is fixing)
(special kiering; Swelling and enzyme kiering)
The result shows, compares with the shrinkage ratio of conventional fabrics (sample G), and be that to tightly twist come unstuck yarn and bottom weft be that the fabric (sample F) of the yarn production of 31D/6 doubled yarn has much better shrinkage ratio to 31D/2 with warp thread.Its gauffer recovers ratio and recovers ratio inferior to the gauffer of B in the table 1 significantly.
Yet if utilize method of the present invention that weft yarn is carried out the fixing processing of silk gum, its gauffer recovers than making it to be improved significantly above 91% so.
Similarly, in components by weight, contain and account for heavy 38% real silk and account for heavy 62% the synthetic real silk 21D/3 * artificial silk (SILMAX of artificial silk, BRIGHT) yarn of 75D with S.Z1600t/m twisting together, then, produce warp thread by the yarn with the tapered bobbin form being carried out fixing processing of silk gum.Silk weaving W Georgette (sample J) is at 40 dents (3 reed)/inch, 68 inches reed width; Be made into the rotating speed of 340r.p.m with Dobby weaving loom (Picanor GT-S) under the condition of 84/ inch of 8160 warp thread and perching altogether.
Similarly, in components by weight, contain the yarn that accounts for heavy 34% real silk and account for synthetic real silk 21D/3 * Cupula (Benberg) 40D * 2 of heavy 64% Cupula together with S.Z1600t/m twisting, then, produce warp thread by the yarn with the tapered bobbin form being carried out fixing processing of silk gum.Silk weaving W Georgette (sample K) is at 40 dents (3 reed)/inch, 60 inches reed width; Be spun into the rotating speed of 340r.p.m with Dobby weaving loom (Picanor GT-S) under the condition of 84/ inch of 8160 warp thread and perching altogether.
These fabrics are to handle through special kiering method (swelling and enzyme kiering).The test class of being carried out in the test of being carried out and table 1 and the table 2 seemingly.Table 3 has shown the result who each of above-mentioned fabrics is carried out the shrinkage ratio test.Fig. 7 and 8 has shown that respectively the absolute value and the gauffer of gauffer recovery ratio recover than time dependent situation.
The result shows, tightly twists yarn owing to used, and all fabrics of being made by cellulose fibre show at longitudinal direction does not have fabulous shrinkage ratio, and they show obviously high recovery ratio in wrinkle resistant test.This proved to real silk and concerning cellulose fibre the formation of triazine skeleton be favourable.
Then, the monochromatic crepe fabric of jacquard weave is to be made by the following raw silk that will describe.The silk gum fixation is used in this woven fabric.Warp thread: the raw silk of 27 Denier (DENIER), 8320 one threads (2080 * 4), the reed width weft yarn of 40.5cm:
(bottom weft)
A. the raw silk yarn of (1) 9 21Denier along the S direction with 3000t/m twisting together.
The raw silk yarn of (2) 3 21Denier along the Z direction with 2800t/m twisting together and combine with the raw silk yarn of a 27Denier and be in the same place along the twisting of S direction.
(1) and the yarn of (2) along the Z direction with the 400t/m doubling and twisting together.
B. make similar reverse lay yarn.
(the decorative pattern spy adds parallel)
C. the raw silk yarn of (1) 6 21Denier along the S direction with 500t/m twisting together.
The raw silk yarn of (2) 9 21Denier along the S direction with 500t/m twisting together.
Yarn (1) and (2) along the Z direction with the 400t/m doubling and twisting together.
Parallel (a) and (b) of making thus and (c) flat spinning, making Tango crepe fabric (the monochromatic wrinkle of jacquard weave) is to add weft yarn and make by weave bottom weft and decorative pattern spy of (a) and (b), (c) and order (d) with the rotating speed of 150r.p.m with the Dobby weaving loom.
L. the monochromatic crepe fabric of jacquard weave is to handle through traditional soap or alkaline scouring.
M. the monochromatic crepe fabric of jacquard weave is handled through silk gum is fixing.
(weight ratio be 10% come unstuck)
Special kiering, swelling and use the enzyme kiering
N. the monochromatic crepe fabric of jacquard weave is handled through silk gum is fixing.
(weight ratio be 20% come unstuck)
Special kiering, swelling and use the enzyme kiering
O. the monochromatic crepe fabric of jacquard weave is handled through silk gum is fixing.
(weight ratio be 20% come unstuck)
Special kiering, swelling and with enzyme kiering (high pressure kiering)
The bottom weft (c) of the monochromatic crepe fabric of jacquard weave P. recited above is through Cyanuric Chloride and silk gum is fixing handles.
Warp thread: 4 warp thread are alternately carried out Cyanuric Chloride (or silk gum is fixed) to be handled.
Weft yarn: bottom weft is subjected to the fixing processing of aforesaid silk gum.
The decorative pattern spy adds weft yarn and is subjected to the fixing processing of aforesaid silk gum.
Special kiering, swelling and enzyme kiering.
Table 4 has shown the result who every kind of fabric is carried out the shrinkage ratio test.Fig. 9 and 10 has shown that respectively the absolute value and the gauffer of gauffer recovery ratio in wrinkle resistant test recover than over time.
Providing curling makes by the step of traditional various complexity with (maybe can dangle) softness and the common monochromatic crepe fabric of taking.Because traditional fabric is by producing with soap or alkaline scouring dissolving silk gum, therefore, its wrinkle recovery capacity and shrink resistance can not be improved.Yet, now prove wherein the silk gum fixation application is but had wrinkle recovery capacity, shrink resistance and the shape stability that has improved to existing original creation product in the fabric.
Next, following fabric is carried out the COLOR FASTNESS test.
Q. after the monochromatic crepe fabric of common jacquard weave carries out kiering with soap or alkali with the black dress-up apparel of common direct dyeing.
R. warp thread and weft yarn (the decorative pattern spy adds weft yarn) carry out the fixing processing of silk gum by using Cyanuric Chloride.Above-mentioned common bottom weft is as weft yarn.Yarn is carried out special kiering, swelling and enzyme kiering to be handled.Bottom weft carries out covering coloring so that colourless solid coloured cloth to be provided with ACID DYES.
S. warp thread and weft yarn carry out with Cyanuric Chloride or silk gum fixation all that silk gum is fixing to be handled, and use REACTIVE DYES (Sumifix Block is from gran) then and weave.Make the black dress-up apparel of handling through special kiering, swelling and enzyme kiering at last.
Table 5 has shown the result who every kind of fabric is carried out COLOR FASTNESS test to 7.
The result proves, the fabric of handling through the silk gum fixation presents the COLOR FASTNESS of obvious raising and do not damage the characteristic of real silk, and if with REACTIVE DYES they are dyeed, the silk weaving fabric has higher shape stability so.Commercial Application
Proved already, according to the method improvement of fixedly raw silk silk gum of the present invention its crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.
At first, the development target of novel " kimonos " product that satisfies Japanese garment market needs depends on the exploitation of novel gauze.The shortcoming of the Japanese clothes of tradition is, comes unstuck and the true silk products (kimonos) that is colored does not subsequently have enough crease and shrink resistances and COLOR FASTNESS by traditional soap or alkaline scouring.The research of silk gum anchor yarns is to carry out in state-run sericulture and insect research of agricultural science institute agriculture and Ministry of Forestry's administration.The report of this research institute claims what problem the fixing yarn of silk gum is not having aspect its TENSILE STRENGTH, and the shape of fabric depends on the fixation degree of silk gum to a great extent, and if the quantity of residual silk gum bigger, gauffer recovers than reducing so.
Now prove crease and shrink resistance and shape stability that cross-linking reaction that is caused by silk gum fixation of the present invention, generate the triazine skeleton and special kiering of the present invention or swelling and enzyme kiering method combine and improved new type yarn.
The second, verified, the silk gum fixation is applicable to cellulose fibre and real silk.The performance of these two kinds of fibers all improves and improves.
The 3rd, the method for arrangement novel fabric comprises with epoxy resin and polyurethane resin and handling, and also comprises with formalin solution and ammoniacal liquor and similar liquid carrying out the shape memory processing.Yet because the destruction that their meetings have a negative impact or cause the global environment resemble the ozone layer human body, therefore, the method for these arrangements and processing fabric is not useful.In contrast, the dermal application test shows that 20 people are carried out, fabrics made according to the present invention can not have a negative impact (with reference to the dermal application test report/registration number 13617-1:Nishishichijo minamino-cho 60 that is write by Nihon Sangyo Hifu Eisei Kyokai to human body, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-shi).
The 4th, verified, the silk gum fixation can be improved the ability that prevents change color, fades and stain.The present invention has very high value on commercial Application.
The shrinkproof test result of table 1
Vertical (%) laterally (%)
B 6.3 0.8
C 8.5 0.1
D 7.0 0.0
E 7.3 0.0
The numerical value of B, C and D, E is respectively 9,6 and 3 mean values of measuring.
The shrinkproof test result of table 2
Vertical (%) laterally (%)
F 3.7 0.9
G 4.0 0.5
H 4.2 0.3
I 4.5 0.9
These numerical value all are 9 mean values of measuring.
The shrinkproof test result of table 3
Vertical (%) laterally (%)
J 10.6 1.3
K 5.7 2.5
These numerical value all are 9 mean values of measuring.
The shrinkproof test result of table 4
Vertical (%) laterally (%)
L 11.6 1.9
M 9.8 0.4
N 6.6 0.2
O 7.1 0.2
P 0.4 0.0
L, OWith
M, N, PNumerical value be respectively the mean value that 9 times and 6 times are measured.The test result of table 5 COLOR FASTNESS test (sample Q)
Carbon arc test (JIS L0842) second exposure method
Change color and fade the 6th grade
Abrasion test (JIS L0849) test machine II type
(drying) the 4th is to the 5th grade
(humidity) the 2nd is to 3rd level
Washing test (JIS L0844)* * * * * * * * *
Dry-cleaning (JIS L0840)
Change color and fade the 4th to the 5th grade
Stain 3rd level (cotton)
Hot water test (JIS L0845)* * * * * * * * *
Cold water test (JIS L0846)* * * * * * * * *
Sweat stain test A method (JIS L0848)
(acid) change color and fade the 5th grade
Stain 3rd level (real silk)
3rd level (cotton)
(alkali) change color and fade the 4th to the 5th grade
Stain the 1st to the 2nd grade
The test result of the 1st to the 2nd grade of (cotton) table 6 COLOR FASTNESS test (sample R)
Carbon arc test (JIS L0842) second exposure method
Change color and fade the 4th grade
Abrasion test (JIS L0849) test machine II type
(drying) the 5th grade
(humidity) the 5th grade
Washing test (JIS L0844) C-1S method
The change color and the 3rd level that fades
Stain the 3rd to the 4th grade (silk)
The 5th grade (cotton)
Dry-cleaning (JIS L0840)
Change color and fade the 5th grade
Stain the 3rd to the 4th grade (nylon)
Hot water test (JIS L0845)* * * * * * * * *
Cold water test (JIS L0846)
Change color and fade the 3rd to the 4th grade
Stain the 2nd to the 3rd (silk)
The 4th grade (cotton)
Sweat stain test A method (JIS L0848)
(acid) change color and fade the 3rd to the 4th grade
Stain 3rd level (silk)
The 5th grade (cotton)
(alkali) change color and fade the 3rd to the 4th grade
Stain the 2nd to 3 grade (silk)
The test result of the 4th to the 5th grade of (cotton) table 7 COLOR FASTNESS test (sample S)
Carbon arc test (JIS L0842) second exposure method
Change color and fade the 5th to the 6th grade
Abrasion test (JIS L0849) test machine II type
(drying) the 5th grade
(humidity) the 4th is to the 5th grade
Washing test (JIS L0844)* * * * * * * * *
Dry-cleaning (JIS L0840)
Change color and fade the 4th grade
Stain the 3rd to the 4th grade (nylon)
Hot water test (JIS L0845)* * * * * * * * *
Cold water test (JIS L0846)* * * * * * * * *
Sweat stain test A method (JIS L0848)
(acid) change color and fade the 5th grade
Stain the 5th grade (silk)
The 5th grade (cotton)
(alkali) change color and fade the 5th grade
Stain the 5th grade (silk)
The 5th grade (cotton)
Claims (24)
1. a method of making woven or knit goods comprises the following steps:
By using the arrangement of real silk silk gum fixation and handling raw silk and/or cellulose fibre;
To be in the same place with twisting through arrangement and treated raw silk and/or cellulose fibre doubling;
To or be knitted into fabric through the woven yarn of doubling and twisting;
Woven or the knit goods that will form cloth is immersed in the dye vat and with its swelling; With
With the woven or knit goods of enzyme kiering swelling in dye vat, thereby provide woven or knit goods with crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.
2. the method for the woven or knit goods of manufacturing as claimed in claim 1, it further is included in before the described woven or knitting step step to raw silk or cellulose dyeing.
3. the method for the woven or knit goods of manufacturing as claimed in claim 1, the arrangement of wherein said use silk gum fixation and treatment step are to carry out with the REACTIVE DYES of cyanurate, its derivative or cyanuric acid derivative.
4. the method for the woven or knit goods of manufacturing as claimed in claim 1, it further is included in the arrangement kiering step that is used to wash the enzyme that is deposited on woven or the knit goods after the step with the enzyme kiering, and wherein in arrangement kiering step softening and anti-water treatment carry out simultaneously.
5. the method for the woven or knit goods of manufacturing as claimed in claim 1, it further be included in after the step of enzyme kiering to step through the woven or knit goods dyeing of kiering.
6. the method for the woven or knit goods of manufacturing as claimed in claim 2, it further be included in after the step of enzyme kiering to step through the woven or knit goods dyeing of kiering.
7. a method of making woven or knit goods comprises the following steps:
Woven or knitting raw silk and/or cellulose fibre are to make fabric;
By using the arrangement of real silk silk gum fixation and handling woven or knit goods;
Woven or the knit goods that will form cloth is immersed in the dye vat and with its swelling; With
With the woven or knit goods of enzyme kiering swelling in dye vat, thereby provide woven or knit goods with crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.
8. the method for the woven or knit goods of manufacturing as claimed in claim 7, wherein raw silk or cellulose fibre are become desired color by prestain.
9. the method for the woven or knit goods of manufacturing as claimed in claim 7, the arrangement of wherein said use silk gum fixation and treatment step are to finish with the REACTIVE DYES of cyanurate, its derivative or cyanuric acid derivative.
10. the method for the woven or knit goods of manufacturing as claimed in claim 7, it further is included in the arrangement kiering step that is used to wash the enzyme that is deposited on woven or the knit goods after the step with the enzyme kiering, and wherein in arrangement kiering step softening and anti-water treatment carry out simultaneously.
11. manufacturing as claimed in claim 7 is woven or the method for knit goods, it further is included in the step that the woven or knit goods through kiering is dyeed with after the step of enzyme kiering.
12. manufacturing as claimed in claim 8 is woven or the method for knit goods, it further is included in described with the step that after the step of enzyme kiering the woven or knit goods through kiering is dyeed.
13. a method of making woven or knit goods comprises the following steps:
By using the conjugation twist yarn of the arrangement of real silk silk gum fixation and processing raw silk and cellulose fibre;
To be in the same place with twisting through arrangement and treated yarn doubling;
Woven or knitting as warp thread or weft yarn or both through doubling and through the yarn of twisting to make fabric;
Woven or the knit goods that will form cloth is immersed in the dye vat and with its swelling; With
Be used for decomposing the woven or knit goods of the enzyme kiering of silk gum, thereby the woven or knit goods with crease and shrink resistance and shape stability is provided in the dye vat swelling.
14. manufacturing as claimed in claim 13 is woven or the method for knit goods, it further is included in before the described woven or knitting step step to raw silk or cellulose dyeing.
15. manufacturing as claimed in claim 13 is woven or the method for knit goods, the arrangement of wherein said use silk gum fixation and treatment step are to finish with the REACTIVE DYES of cyanurate, its derivative or cyanuric acid derivative.
16. manufacturing as claimed in claim 13 is woven or the method for knit goods, it further is included in the arrangement kiering step that is used to wash the enzyme that is deposited on woven or the knit goods after the step with the enzyme kiering, and wherein in arrangement kiering step softening and anti-water treatment carry out simultaneously.
17. manufacturing as claimed in claim 13 is woven or the method for knit goods, it further is included in the step that the woven or knit goods through kiering is dyeed with after the step of enzyme kiering.
18. manufacturing as claimed in claim 14 is woven or the method for knit goods, it further is included in the step that the woven or knit goods through kiering is dyeed with after the step of enzyme kiering.
19. a method of making woven or knit goods comprises the following steps:
Woven or the knitting conjugation twist yarn of warp or parallel or both raw silks and cellulose fibre that is used as is to make fabric;
By using the arrangement of real silk silk gum fixation and handling woven or knit goods;
Woven or the knit goods that will form cloth is immersed in the dye vat and with its swelling; With
With the woven or knit goods of enzyme kiering swelling in dye vat, thereby provide woven or knit goods with crease and shrink resistance and shape stability.
20. manufacturing as claimed in claim 19 is woven or the method for knit goods, wherein the conjugation twist yarn is become desired color by prestain.
21. manufacturing as claimed in claim 19 is woven or the method for knit goods, the arrangement of wherein said use silk gum fixation and treatment step are to finish with the REACTIVE DYES of the derivative of cyanurate, its derivative or cyanuric acid.
22. manufacturing as claimed in claim 19 is woven or the method for knit goods, it further is included in the arrangement kiering step that is used to wash the enzyme that is deposited on woven or the knit goods after the step with the enzyme kiering, and wherein in washing kiering step softening and anti-water treatment carry out simultaneously.
23. manufacturing as claimed in claim 19 is woven or the method for knit goods, it further is included in the step that the woven or knit goods through kiering is dyeed with after the step of enzyme kiering.
24. manufacturing as claimed in claim 20 is woven or the method for knit goods, it further is included in the step that the woven or knit goods through kiering is dyeed with after the step of enzyme kiering.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN97182338A CN1104522C (en) | 1997-08-07 | 1997-08-07 | Method of production of woven/knitted fabrics using sericin fixation yarn and woven/knitted fabric produced by method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN97182338A CN1104522C (en) | 1997-08-07 | 1997-08-07 | Method of production of woven/knitted fabrics using sericin fixation yarn and woven/knitted fabric produced by method |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN1262713A CN1262713A (en) | 2000-08-09 |
| CN1104522C true CN1104522C (en) | 2003-04-02 |
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| CN97182338A Expired - Fee Related CN1104522C (en) | 1997-08-07 | 1997-08-07 | Method of production of woven/knitted fabrics using sericin fixation yarn and woven/knitted fabric produced by method |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN102286880B (en) * | 2010-12-16 | 2012-11-14 | 宁波维科精华浙东针织有限公司 | Knitted fabric dyeing pretreatment method |
| CN103696088B (en) * | 2013-12-19 | 2016-02-24 | 吴江明敏制衣有限公司松陵分公司 | A kind of waterproof and dampproof fabric |
| JP6068561B2 (en) * | 2015-06-03 | 2017-01-25 | 森博多織株式会社 | Pile woven product manufacturing method using raw yarn and pile woven product |
| CN112239952B (en) * | 2019-07-16 | 2021-10-01 | 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 | Method for improving anti-ultraviolet performance of natural colorful silk fiber |
| CN113463386A (en) * | 2021-08-18 | 2021-10-01 | 浙江丝绸科技有限公司 | Machine-washable gray-damage-proof real silk or silk-containing fabric |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS63126910A (en) * | 1986-11-11 | 1988-05-30 | Satoshi Aoki | Regeneration of silk fiber |
| JPH1184A (en) * | 1997-04-18 | 1999-01-06 | Daiwa Seiko Inc | Fishing rod |
-
1997
- 1997-08-07 CN CN97182338A patent/CN1104522C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS63126910A (en) * | 1986-11-11 | 1988-05-30 | Satoshi Aoki | Regeneration of silk fiber |
| JPH1184A (en) * | 1997-04-18 | 1999-01-06 | Daiwa Seiko Inc | Fishing rod |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN1262713A (en) | 2000-08-09 |
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