CN109142690B - A method for testing multi-directional stiffness of garment fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for testing the multi-directional stiffness of fabrics. When the existing stiffness measurement method needs to obtain the stiffness of the fabric in different directions, it is necessary to cut multiple samples for repeated tests. The testing device used in the present invention includes a fixing plate, a measuring plate and a measuring block. The bottom of the fixing plate is fixed with one side edge of the measuring plate. The inner side of the fixing plate is vertically arranged. The top surface of the measuring plate is set horizontally. A bottom horizontal line, a fixed line, a fixed point, a standard line and a division line group are arranged on the fixed plate. The bottom horizontal line is flush with the top surface of the measuring board. The fixed line is above the bottom horizontal line. The fixed point is at the midpoint of the fixed line. The standard line passes through the fixed point and is perpendicular to the bottom horizontal line. The division line group includes the first division line, the second division line, ..., the nth division line. A measurement reference line is set on the measurement board. The invention can use the same sample to realize the measurement of the stiffness of the fabric in all directions.

Description

A method for testing multi-directional stiffness of garment fabrics

technical field

The invention belongs to the technical field of textile and garment performance testing, in particular to a multi-directional stiffness testing method for garment fabrics.

Background technique

The stiffness of the fabric is an important indicator that must be considered when purchasing fabrics and designing clothing. The stiffness of the fabric directly affects the appearance of the garment and also affects the wearing comfort. The fabric buyers of many clothing companies roughly estimate the stiffness of the fabrics based on experience and subjective evaluations when purchasing fabrics. Therefore, the establishment of an accurate and simple fabric stiffness test and evaluation method has very important practical significance in garment processing and fabric selection.

The bevel method is currently the most commonly used method for evaluating the stiffness of fabrics. The evaluation indexes of this method are bending length and bending stiffness. The larger the value of these indicators, the stiffer the fabric. The advantage is that it is convenient and quick, but the slope method can only obtain the stiffness value in a single direction for each test. If you want to get indicators in multiple directions, you need to take multiple materials and measurements, which takes a long time and consumes a lot of fabrics. Especially for high-end fabrics, the testing cost cannot be ignored.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for testing the multi-directional stiffness of garment fabrics.

The testing device used in the present invention includes a fixing plate, a measuring plate and a measuring block. The bottom of the fixing plate is fixed with one side edge of the measuring plate. The inner side of the fixing plate is vertically arranged. The top surface of the measuring plate is set horizontally.

The fixed plate is provided with a bottom horizontal line, a fixed line, a fixed point, a standard line and a set of dividing lines. The bottom horizontal line is flush with the top surface of the measuring board. The fixed line is above the bottom horizontal line and is at a distance H from the bottom horizontal line. The fixed point is at the midpoint of the fixed line. The standard line passes through the fixed point and is perpendicular to the bottom horizontal line.

The indexing line group includes the first indexing line, the second indexing line, ..., the nth indexing line, and 1≤n≤15. The two i-th indexing lines passing through the fixed point are symmetrical with respect to the standard line, and both form an angle of i·22.5° with the fixed line, i=1,2...,n.

The measuring board is provided with a measuring reference line. The measurement reference line is perpendicular to the inner side of the fixing plate and intersects with the standard line on the bottom horizontal line. A first scale line is set on the measurement reference line. A second scale line is provided on the working side of the measuring block.

The specific steps of the multi-directional stiffness test method of the garment fabric are as follows:

Step 1: After ironing the fabric to be tested flat, cut it into a circle with a diameter of D to obtain a sample to be tested, 10cm≤D≤20cm, D<H. On the sample to be tested, draw a silk mark line through the center of the circle.

Step 2: Place the sample to be tested on the inner surface of the fixing plate, so that the center of the circle of the sample to be tested is aligned with the fixing point on the fixing plate, and the silk mark line is aligned with the fixing point on the fixing plate. Then insert the first pin into the center of the circle to be tested.

Step 3. Assign 1 to i.

Step 4. Insert the two second pins to the edges of the two sides of the sample to be tested. The first pin and the two second pins are inserted into the fixed line.

Step 5. Place the measuring block on the measuring board, so that the bottom end face of the measuring block is attached to the top surface of the measuring board, and the working side is aligned with the measuring reference line on the measuring board. Afterwards, move the measurement block along the measurement reference line on the measurement plate so that the measurement block is in contact with the sample to be tested.

Step 6: Read the scale X corresponding to the first scale line and the scale Y corresponding to the second scale line where the measuring block contacts the sample to be tested.

之后执行步骤八。Step 7. Calculate the softness coefficient of the fabric

Then go to step eight.

Step 8. If i≤n, then pull out the two second pins, rotate the test sample clockwise or counterclockwise, so that the silk mark line on the test sample is aligned with one of the i-th indexing lines, and Repeat steps 4, 5, 6 and 7 after increasing i by 1.

If i>n, go to step 9.

Step 9. The smaller the value of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ is, the stiffer the fabric to be tested is.

Further, the following operations are also performed in the ninth step: calculating the variance D(R) of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ . The smaller the D(R), the more uniform the stiffness of the tested fabric in all directions. Calculate the mean M(R) of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ . The larger the M(R), the stiffer the fabric to be tested.

Further, a placement contour circle is also provided on the fixing plate. The center of the placed contour circle coincides with the fixed point, the diameter is D, H=0.5D+a, a=0.5cm.

Further, the 0 scale of the first scale line on the measurement reference line is aligned with the inner side surface of the fixing plate.

Further, the 0 scale of the second scale line is aligned with the bottom end face of the measurement block.

The beneficial effects that the present invention has are:

The invention can use the same sample to measure the stiffness of the fabric in all directions, avoid the complicated operation of cutting multiple samples in order to detect the stiffness in different directions in the prior art, thereby saving the fabric cost and measurement time.

Description of drawings

Fig. 1 is the test process schematic diagram of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the inner side of the fixing plate in the testing device used in the present invention.

Detailed ways

The present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

As shown in FIG. 1 , a method for testing the multi-directional stiffness of clothing fabrics adopts a testing device including a fixing plate 1 , a measuring plate 2 and a measuring block 3 . The bottom of the fixing plate 1 is fixed with one side edge of the measuring plate 2 . The inner side of the fixing plate 1 is vertically arranged. The top surface of the measuring plate 2 is set horizontally.

As shown in Figures 1 and 2, the fixed plate 1 is provided with a bottom horizontal line 1-1, a fixed line 1-2, a fixed point 1-3, a placement contour circle 1-4, a standard line 1-5, and a first index line 1-6, the second index line 1-7 and the third index line 1-8. Bottom horizontal line 1-1 is flush with the top surface of measuring plate 2. The fixed line 1-2 is located above the bottom horizontal line 1-1 and has a distance H from the bottom horizontal line 1-1. Fixed point 1-3 is located at the midpoint of fixed line 1-2. Place the center of the contour circle 1-4 coincident with the fixed point 1-3, the diameter is D, H=0.5D+a, 10cm≤D≤20cm, a=0.5cm. The standard line 1-5 passes through the fixed point 1-3 and is perpendicular to the bottom horizontal line 1-1. The two first graduation lines 1-6 passing through the fixed points 1-3 are symmetrical with respect to the standard line 1-5, and both form an angle of 22.5° with the fixed line 1-2. The two second graduation lines 1-7 passing through the fixed points 1-3 are symmetrical with respect to the standard line 1-5, and both form an angle of 45° with the fixed line 1-2. The two third graduation lines 1-8 passing through the fixed points 1-3 are symmetrical with respect to the standard line 1-5, and both form an angle of 67.5° with the fixed line 1-2.

A measurement reference line is set on the measurement board. The measurement reference line is perpendicular to the inner side of the fixing plate, and intersects with the standard line 1-5 on the bottom horizontal line 1-1. A first scale line is set on the measurement reference line. The 0 scale of the first scale line on the measurement reference line is aligned with the inner side of the fixed plate. A second scale line is provided on the working side of the measuring block 3 . The 0 scale of the second scale line is aligned with the bottom end face of the measuring block 3 .

The specific steps of the multi-directional stiffness test method of the garment fabric are as follows:

Step 1: After ironing the fabric to be tested flat, it is cut into a circle with a diameter of D to obtain a sample 4 to be tested. And draw a silk mark line (straight line) through the center of the circle on the sample 4 to be tested. The circular test sample 4 can ensure that the length of the tested sample in all directions remains unchanged under different angles, so as to avoid the influence of the shape of the tested sample on the measurement result.

Step 2. Place the sample 4 to be tested on the inner side of the fixing plate, so that the center of the sample 4 to be tested is aligned with the fixing points 1-3 on the fixing plate, and the silk mark line is aligned with the fixing points 1-3 on the fixing plate. Align. Insert the first pin into the center of the sample 4 to be tested.

Step 3. Assign 1 to i.

Step 4. Insert the two second pins to the edges of the two sides of the sample to be tested. The first pin and the two second pins are both inserted on the fixing line 1-2, so that the part below the fixing line 1-2 on the tested sample is attached to the inner side of the fixing plate, and the part above the fixing line 1-2 is far away. One side of the fixed plate sags naturally.

Step 5. After the drooping form of the tested sample is stable for one minute, place the measuring block 3 on the measuring plate, so that the bottom end face of the measuring block 3 is in contact with the top surface of the measuring plate, and the working side and the measuring reference line on the measuring plate. Align. After that, move the measurement block 3 along the measurement reference line on the measurement board, so that the measurement block 3 is in contact with the natural sagging outer edge of the sample to be tested.

Step 6: Read the corresponding scale X (horizontal width) on the first scale line and the corresponding scale Y (longitudinal height) on the second scale line where the measuring block 3 contacts the sample to be tested.

之后执行步骤八。Step 7. Calculate the softness coefficient of the fabric

Then go to step eight.

Step 8. If i≤3, then pull out the two second pins, rotate the test sample clockwise or counterclockwise, so that the silk mark line on the test sample is aligned with one of the i-th indexing lines, and Repeat steps 4, 5, 6 and 7 after increasing i by 1.

If i>3, go to step 9.

Step 9: Calculate the variance D(R) of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ . The smaller the D(R), the more uniform the stiffness of the tested fabric in all directions. Calculate the mean M(R) of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ . The larger the M(R), the stiffer the fabric to be tested.

Claims (5)

1. a clothing fabric multidirectional stiffness testing method, is characterized in that: the test device adopted comprises a fixed plate, a measuring plate and a measuring block; the bottom of the fixed plate is fixed with one side edge of the measuring plate; the fixed plate The inner side of the measuring plate is arranged vertically; the top surface of the measuring plate is arranged horizontally; The fixed plate is provided with a bottom horizontal line, a fixed line, a fixed point, a standard line and an indexing line group; the bottom horizontal line is flush with the top surface of the measuring plate; the fixed line is located above the bottom horizontal line, and the distance from the bottom horizontal line is H; the fixed point is at the midpoint of the fixed line; the standard line passes through the fixed point and is perpendicular to the bottom horizontal line; The said indexing line group includes the first indexing line, the second indexing line, ..., the nth indexing line, 1≤n≤15; the two i-th indexing lines passing through the fixed point are symmetrical with respect to the standard line , and all form an angle of i·22.5° with the fixed line, i=1,2...,n; The measurement reference line is provided with a measurement reference line; the measurement reference line is perpendicular to the inner side of the fixed plate, and intersects with the standard line on the bottom horizontal line; the measurement reference line is provided with a first scale line; A second scale line is arranged on the working side; The specific steps of the multi-directional stiffness test method of the garment fabric are as follows: Step 1. After ironing the tested fabric flat, cut it into a circle with a diameter of D to obtain the tested sample, 10cm≤D≤20cm, D<H; draw a silk thread mark line passing through the center of the circle on the tested sample ; Step 2: Place the sample to be tested on the inner surface of the fixing plate, so that the center of the circle of the sample to be tested is aligned with the fixing point on the fixing plate, and the silk thread mark line is aligned with the fixing point on the fixing plate; then insert the first pin into the fixing plate. at the center of the circle to be tested; Step 3. Assign 1 to i; Step 4: Insert the two second pins into the edges of the two sides of the sample to be tested respectively; make the first pin and the two second pins both inserted on the fixed line; Step 5. Place the measuring block on the measuring board, so that the bottom end face of the measuring block is attached to the top surface of the measuring board, and the working side is aligned with the measuring datum line on the measuring board; after that, follow the measuring datum line on the measuring board. Move the measuring block so that the measuring block is in contact with the sample to be tested; Step 6, read the scale X corresponding to the first scale line and the scale Y corresponding to the second scale line at the contact between the measuring block and the tested sample; Step 7. Calculate the softness coefficient of the fabric

Then go to step eight; Step 8. If i≤n, unplug the two second pins, rotate the test sample clockwise or counterclockwise, so that the silk mark line on the test sample is aligned with one of the i-th indexing lines, and After i increases by 1, repeat steps 4, 5, 6 and 7; If i>n, go to step 9; Step 9. The smaller the value of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ is, the stiffer the fabric to be tested is. 2. a kind of clothing fabric multidirectional stiffness testing method according to claim 1, is characterized in that: also carry out following operation in step 9: calculate the variance D (R) of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ ; The smaller the D(R), the more uniform the stiffness of the tested fabric in all directions; the average value M(R) of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ is calculated; The stiffer the fabric. 3. a kind of clothing fabric multidirectional stiffness testing method according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described fixing plate is also provided with placing contour circle; , H=0.5D+a, a=0.5cm. 4 . The method for testing the multi-directional stiffness of clothing fabrics according to claim 1 , wherein the 0 scale of the first scale line on the measurement reference line is aligned with the inner side of the fixing plate. 5 . 5 . The method for testing the multi-directional stiffness of garment fabrics according to claim 1 , wherein the 0 scale of the second scale line is aligned with the bottom end face of the measuring block. 6 .

Images