CN109142690B - Multi-direction stiffness testing method for clothing fabric - Google Patents

Multi-direction stiffness testing method for clothing fabric Download PDF

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CN109142690B
CN109142690B CN201810902544.5A CN201810902544A CN109142690B CN 109142690 B CN109142690 B CN 109142690B CN 201810902544 A CN201810902544 A CN 201810902544A CN 109142690 B CN109142690 B CN 109142690B
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CN109142690A (en
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刘成霞
季莉芬
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Eve Fashion Co ltd
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Zhejiang University of Technology ZJUT
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    • G01MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01NINVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
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Abstract

The invention discloses a method for testing multi-directional stiffness of a fabric. When the stiffness of the fabric in different directions needs to be obtained by the traditional stiffness measuring method, a plurality of samples need to be cut for repeated tests. The testing device adopted by the invention comprises a fixing plate, a measuring plate and a measuring block. The bottom of the fixed plate is fixed with one side edge of the measuring plate. The inner side surface of the fixing plate is vertically arranged. The top surface of the measuring plate is horizontally arranged. The fixing plate is provided with a bottom horizontal line, a fixing point, a standard line and a dividing line group. The bottom level is flush with the top surface of the measurement plate. The fixed line is located above the bottom horizontal line. The fixed point is located at the midpoint of the fixed line. The standard line passes through the fixed point and is perpendicular to the bottom horizontal line. The index line group includes the 1 st index line, the 2 nd index line, … and the nth index line. A measuring datum line is arranged on the measuring plate. The invention can realize the measurement of the stiffness of the fabric in all directions by using the same sample.

Description

Multi-direction stiffness testing method for clothing fabric
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile garment performance testing, and particularly relates to a multi-directional stiffness testing method for a garment fabric.
Background
The stiffness of the fabric is an important index which must be considered when the fabric is purchased and installed. The stiffness of the fabric directly affects the appearance of the garment and also affects the comfort of the wearer. Many garment company fabric purchasers, when purchasing the fabric, roughly estimate the stiffness of the fabric by experience and subjective evaluation. Therefore, the method for testing and evaluating the stiffness of the fabric accurately and simply has very important practical significance in the aspects of garment processing and fabric material selection.
The slant method is currently the most commonly used method for evaluating the stiffness of a fabric. The evaluation indexes of the method are bending length and bending rigidity. The higher the value of these indicators, the stiffer the fabric is. The method has the advantages of convenience and rapidness, but the stiffness value in a single direction can only be obtained by each test by the inclined plane method. If the indexes in multiple directions are required to be obtained, the materials need to be taken and measured for multiple times, the consumed time is long, the consumption of the fabric is high, and particularly for high-grade fabrics, the test cost cannot be ignored.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for testing the multidirectional stiffness of a garment fabric.
The testing device adopted by the invention comprises a fixing plate, a measuring plate and a measuring block. The bottom of the fixed plate is fixed with one side edge of the measuring plate. The inner side surface of the fixing plate is vertically arranged. The top surface of the measuring plate is horizontally arranged.
The fixing plate is provided with a bottom horizontal line, a fixing point, a standard line and a dividing line group. The bottom level is flush with the top surface of the measurement plate. The fixed line is positioned above the bottom horizontal line, and the distance between the fixed line and the bottom horizontal line is H. The fixed point is located at the midpoint of the fixed line. The standard line passes through the fixed point and is perpendicular to the bottom horizontal line.
The graduation line group comprises a 1 st graduation line, a 2 nd graduation line, … and an nth graduation line, and n is more than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 15. The two ith graduation lines, which each pass through a fixed point, are symmetrical about the standard line and each make an angle i.22.5 ° with the fixed line, i being 1,2 …, n.
The measuring plate is provided with a measuring datum line. The measuring reference line is perpendicular to the inner side face of the fixing plate and intersects with the standard line on the bottom horizontal line. A first scale mark is arranged on the measuring reference line. And a second scale mark is arranged on the working side surface of the measuring block.
The method for testing the multidirectional stiffness of the clothing fabric comprises the following specific steps:
firstly, ironing and flattening the tested fabric, and cutting the fabric into a circle with the diameter of D to obtain a tested sample, wherein D is more than or equal to 10cm and less than or equal to 20cm, and D is more than H. Marking out a thread mark line passing through the center of a circle on a sample to be measured.
And step two, placing the tested sample on the inner side surface of the fixing plate, so that the circle center of the tested sample is aligned with the fixing point on the fixing plate, and the mark line of the silk thread is aligned with the fixing point on the fixing plate. And then inserting the first pin at the center of the circle of the sample to be tested.
And step three, assigning 1 to i.
And step four, inserting two second pins into the edges of the two sides of the tested sample respectively. So that the first pin and the two second pins are inserted on the fixed line.
And step five, placing the measuring block on the measuring plate, so that the bottom end face of the measuring block is attached to the top face of the measuring plate, and the working side face is aligned with the measuring datum line on the measuring plate. Then, the measuring block is moved along the measuring reference line on the measuring plate so that the measuring block is brought into contact with the sample to be tested.
And step six, reading a scale X corresponding to the contact position of the measuring block and the sample to be tested on the first scale mark and a scale Y corresponding to the contact position of the measuring block and the sample to be tested on the second scale mark.
Step seven, calculating the softness coefficient of the fabric
Figure GDA0002433228460000021
Step eight is then performed.
And step eight, if i is less than or equal to n, pulling down two second pins, rotating the sample to be tested clockwise or anticlockwise to enable the thread strand mark line on the sample to be tested to be aligned with one ith graduation line, increasing i by 1, and then repeatedly executing the steps four, five, six and seven.
If i is greater than n, go to step nine.
Step nine, R1、R2、R3、R4The smaller the value, the stiffer the fabric tested.
Further, the following operations are also performed in the ninth step: calculation of R1、R2、R3、R4Variance d (r) of (a). The smaller the D (R), the more uniform the stiffness of the tested fabric in all directions. Calculation of R1、R2、R3、R4Average value M (R) of (1). The greater M (R), the stiffer the fabric tested.
Furthermore, a placing contour circle is also arranged on the fixing plate. The circle center of the outline circle is superposed with the fixed point, the diameter is D, H is 0.5D + a, and a is 0.5 cm.
Further, the 0 scale of the first scale mark on the measuring reference line is aligned with the inner side surface of the fixing plate.
Further, the 0 scale of the second scale mark is aligned with the bottom end face of the measuring block.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention can realize the measurement of the stiffness of the fabric in each direction by using the same sample, avoids the complex operation of cutting a plurality of samples for detecting the stiffness in different directions in the prior art, and further saves the fabric cost and the measurement time.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a testing process of the present invention;
fig. 2 is a schematic view of the inner side of the fixing plate in the testing device of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
As shown in figure 1, the test device adopted by the method for testing the multidirectional stiffness of the garment fabric comprises a fixed plate 1, a measuring plate 2 and a measuring block 3. The bottom of the fixed plate 1 is fixed to one side edge of the measuring plate 2. The inner side surface of the fixing plate 1 is vertically arranged. The top surface of the measuring plate 2 is arranged horizontally.
As shown in fig. 1 and 2, a bottom horizontal line 1-1, a fixing line 1-2, a fixing point 1-3, a placement contour circle 1-4, a standard line 1-5, a first graduation line 1-6, a second graduation line 1-7 and a third graduation line 1-8 are arranged on a fixing plate 1. The bottom level 1-1 is flush with the top surface of the measuring plate 2. The fixed line 1-2 is located above the bottom horizontal line 1-1 and is at a distance H from the bottom horizontal line 1-1. The fixation point 1-3 is located at the midpoint of the fixation line 1-2. The circle centers of the outline circles 1-4 are superposed with the fixed points 1-3, the diameter is D, H is 0.5D + a, D is more than or equal to 10cm and less than or equal to 20cm, and a is 0.5 cm. The standard line 1-5 passes through the fixed point 1-3 and is perpendicular to the bottom horizontal line 1-1. The two first division lines 1-6, which both pass the fixing points 1-3, are symmetrical with respect to the standard line 1-5 and both form an angle of 22.5 ° with the fixing line 1-2. The two second lines of demarcation 1-7, both passing through the fixation points 1-3, are symmetrical about the standard line 1-5 and both make an angle of 45 degrees with the fixation line 1-2. The two third degree lines 1-8, both passing the fixation points 1-3, are symmetrical with respect to the standard line 1-5 and both make an angle of 67.5 with the fixation line 1-2.
A measuring datum line is arranged on the measuring plate. The measuring reference line is perpendicular to the inner side surface of the fixing plate and intersects the standard line 1-5 on the bottom horizontal line 1-1. A first scale mark is arranged on the measuring reference line. The 0 scale position of the first scale mark on the measuring reference line is aligned with the inner side surface of the fixing plate. And a second scale mark is arranged on the working side surface of the measuring block 3. The 0 scale of the second scale mark is aligned with the bottom end face of the measuring block 3.
The method for testing the multidirectional stiffness of the clothing fabric comprises the following specific steps:
step one, ironing and flattening the tested fabric, and cutting the fabric into a circle with the diameter of D to obtain a tested sample 4. And a thread mark line (straight line) passing through the center of the circle is drawn on the sample 4 to be tested. The round sample 4 to be tested can ensure that the length of the sample to be tested along each direction is kept unchanged under the condition of different angles, so that the influence of the shape of the sample to be tested on the measurement result is avoided.
And step two, placing the sample 4 to be tested on the inner side surface of the fixing plate, so that the circle center of the sample 4 to be tested is aligned with the fixing points 1-3 on the fixing plate, and the mark line of the silk thread is aligned with the fixing points 1-3 on the fixing plate. And inserting the first pin at the center of the circle of the sample 4 to be tested.
And step three, assigning 1 to i.
And step four, inserting two second pins into the edges of the two sides of the tested sample respectively. The first pin and the two second pins are inserted on the fixing line 1-2, so that the part below the fixing line 1-2 on the tested sample is attached to the inner side surface of the fixing plate, and the part above the fixing line 1-2 naturally droops to the side far away from the fixing plate.
And step five, after the sagging form of the tested sample is stabilized for one minute, the measuring block 3 is placed on the measuring plate, so that the bottom end face of the measuring block 3 is attached to the top face of the measuring plate, and the working side face is aligned with the measuring datum line on the measuring plate. Thereafter, the measuring block 3 is moved along the measuring reference line on the measuring plate so that the measuring block 3 is brought into contact with the outer edge of the sample to be tested, which naturally hangs down.
And step six, reading a scale X (transverse width) corresponding to the contact position of the measuring block 3 and the sample to be tested on the first scale mark and a scale Y (longitudinal height) corresponding to the contact position of the measuring block and the sample to be tested on the second scale mark.
Step seven, calculating the softness coefficient of the fabric
Figure GDA0002433228460000041
Step eight is then performed.
And step eight, if i is less than or equal to 3, pulling down two second pins, rotating the sample to be tested clockwise or anticlockwise to enable the thread mark line on the sample to be tested to be aligned with one ith graduation line, increasing i by 1, and then repeatedly executing the steps four, five, six and seven.
If i is greater than 3, go to step nine.
Step nine, calculating R1、R2、R3、R4Variance d (r) of (a). The smaller the D (R), the more uniform the stiffness of the tested fabric in all directions. Calculation of R1、R2、R3、R4Average value M (R) of (1). The greater M (R), the stiffer the fabric tested.

Claims (5)

1. A method for testing the multi-directional stiffness of a garment fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the adopted testing device comprises a fixing plate, a measuring plate and a measuring block; the bottom of the fixed plate is fixed with one side edge of the measuring plate; the inner side surface of the fixed plate is vertically arranged; the top surface of the measuring plate is horizontally arranged;
the fixing plate is provided with a bottom horizontal line, a fixing point, a standard line and a dividing line group; the bottom horizontal line is flush with the top surface of the measuring plate; the fixed line is positioned above the bottom horizontal line, and the distance between the fixed line and the bottom horizontal line is H; the fixed point is located at the midpoint of the fixed line; the standard line passes through the fixed point and is vertical to the bottom horizontal line;
the graduation line group comprises a 1 st graduation line, a 2 nd graduation line, … and an nth graduation line, wherein n is more than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 15; the two ith graduation lines passing through the fixed point are symmetrical about the standard line and form an angle of i.22.5 degrees with the fixed line, wherein i is 1,2 …, n;
a measurement datum line is arranged on the measurement plate; the measuring datum line is perpendicular to the inner side face of the fixing plate and is intersected with the standard line on the bottom horizontal line; a first scale mark is arranged on the measuring reference line; a second scale mark is arranged on the working side surface of the measuring block;
the method for testing the multidirectional stiffness of the clothing fabric comprises the following specific steps:
firstly, ironing and flattening a tested fabric, and cutting the fabric into a circle with the diameter of D to obtain a tested sample, wherein D is more than or equal to 10cm and less than or equal to 20cm, and D is more than H; marking out a thread mark line passing through the center of a circle on a sample to be measured;
placing the tested sample on the inner side surface of the fixing plate, so that the circle center of the tested sample is aligned with the fixed point on the fixing plate, and the mark line of the silk thread is aligned with the fixed point on the fixing plate; then inserting a first pin at the circle center of the sample to be tested;
assigning 1 to i;
step four, inserting two second pins at the edges of two sides of the tested sample respectively; so that the first pin and the two second pins are inserted on the fixed line;
placing the measuring block on the measuring plate, so that the bottom end face of the measuring block is attached to the top face of the measuring plate, and the working side face is aligned with the measuring datum line on the measuring plate; then, moving the measuring block along the measuring datum line on the measuring plate to enable the measuring block to be in contact with the sample to be tested;
reading a scale X corresponding to the contact position of the measuring block and the sample to be tested on a first scale mark and a scale Y corresponding to the contact position of the measuring block and the sample to be tested on a second scale mark;
step seven, calculating the softness coefficient of the fabric
Figure FDA0002690823260000011
Then executing step eight;
step eight, if i is less than or equal to n, pulling down two second pins, rotating the sample to be tested clockwise or anticlockwise to enable the thread mark line on the sample to be tested to be aligned with one ith graduation line, increasing i by 1, and then repeatedly executing the steps four, five, six and seven;
if i is more than n, entering the ninth step;
step nine, R1、R2、R3、R4The smaller the value, the stiffer the fabric tested.
2. The method for testing the multidirectional stiffness of the garment fabric according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the following operations are also carried out in the ninth step: calculation of R1、R2、R3、R4The variance D (R) of (1); the smaller the D (R), the more uniform the stiffness of the tested fabric in all directions; calculation of R1、R2、R3、R4Average value of (A), (B), (C), (; the greater M (R), the stiffer the fabric tested.
3. The method for testing the multidirectional stiffness of the garment fabric according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the fixing plate is also provided with a placing contour circle; the circle center of the outline circle is superposed with the fixed point, the diameter is D, H is 0.5D + a, and a is 0.5 cm.
4. The method for testing the multidirectional stiffness of the garment fabric according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: and the 0 scale position of the first scale mark on the measuring reference line is aligned with the inner side surface of the fixing plate.
5. The method for testing the multidirectional stiffness of the garment fabric according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: and the 0 scale of the second scale mark is aligned with the bottom end face of the measuring block.
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CN111579478B (en) * 2020-05-22 2023-06-30 杭州万事利丝绸文化股份有限公司 Garment fabric stiffness testing method capable of flexibly changing sample length
CN112033808A (en) * 2020-09-15 2020-12-04 北京航天雷特机电工程有限公司 Method for testing softness of soft aramid fiber protective material
CN113324849B (en) * 2021-06-08 2022-11-11 浙江理工大学 Multi-direction garment stiffness evaluation method based on single sample

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CN102788729B (en) * 2012-07-26 2014-02-26 浙江理工大学 Test method for bending performance of fabric
CN102980821B (en) * 2012-11-19 2015-05-27 芜湖华烨新材料有限公司 Method for measuring gum-dipped canvas hardness and measuring instrument therefor
CN103728440B (en) * 2014-01-17 2015-06-17 浙江理工大学 Multi-direction stiffness test device and method for fabric
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