CN109069882B - Method of improving the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities - Google Patents

Method of improving the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities Download PDF

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CN109069882B
CN109069882B CN201780023484.3A CN201780023484A CN109069882B CN 109069882 B CN109069882 B CN 109069882B CN 201780023484 A CN201780023484 A CN 201780023484A CN 109069882 B CN109069882 B CN 109069882B
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periorbital
personal care
care composition
skin
pigment abnormalities
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CN109069882A (en
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K·M·欧索里奥
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Procter and Gamble Co
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
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Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of improving the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities by identifying a target portion of skin in the periorbital region of a person exhibiting periorbital pigment abnormalities and applying a personal care composition to the target portion of skin. The personal care composition comprises an effective amount of broad bean extract and a dermatologically acceptable carrier. The personal care composition is applied for a sufficient time for the broad bean extract to improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities.

Description

Method of improving the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities
Technical Field
The present disclosure relates generally to methods of improving the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities. More particularly, the present disclosure relates to improving the appearance of one or more types of periorbital pigment abnormalities by applying a cosmetic composition comprising a fava bean (vicia faba) extract to periorbital skin in need of such treatment.
Background
Periorbital pigment abnormalities (which are sometimes referred to as dark under-eye circles) are generally considered undesirable discolorations of the skin surrounding the eye and are often associated with fatigue and/or aging. Various methods have been devised to improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities, such as applying concealer and/or other cosmetic products to mask their appearance. However, the use of makeup to mask the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities is only a temporary solution. In order to maintain the cosmetic benefits provided by conventional cosmetic products, the user will typically apply the product daily, and in some cases, may even need to reapply the product throughout the day. Accordingly, a more permanent solution is desired to reduce and/or eliminate some undesirable aesthetic features that are typically present around the eye, for example, by addressing the root cause of periorbital pigment abnormalities.
In order to find a solution to the problem of periorbital pigment abnormalities, researchers have attempted to identify the root cause of the disorder. At present, periorbital pigment abnormality is considered to be a multifactorial pathogenesis, which is not well elucidated. Although it is generally known that there may be different types of periorbital pigment abnormalities, there is no generally accepted definition for each type. And even among those who recognize the presence of different types of periorbital pigment abnormalities, some have proposed treating different types of periorbital pigment abnormalities with a single composition or material in a "one-knife" approach. Thus, there remains a need for a method of treating periorbital pigment abnormalities that is tailored to address characteristics associated with specific types of periorbital pigment abnormalities, respectively.
Accordingly, it would be desirable to provide a method of treating periorbital pigment abnormalities in which a chronic active is applied to a target portion of skin exhibiting periorbital pigment abnormalities to improve the appearance of the periorbital pigment abnormalities. It is also desirable to provide a method of treating periorbital pigment abnormalities by applying a cosmetic composition comprising fava bean extract to a target portion of skin exhibiting periorbital pigment abnormalities to improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities. It is also desirable to provide a method of treating periorbital pigment abnormalities by applying a broad bean extract-containing cosmetic composition to a targeted portion of the skin to improve the appearance of a particular type of periorbital pigment abnormality.
Disclosure of Invention
The methods disclosed herein provide a means of improving the appearance of type II and type III periorbital pigment abnormalities. The method includes identifying a target portion of periorbital skin exhibiting type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities and applying a personal care composition to the target portion of skin. The personal care composition comprises an effective amount of fava bean extract, a dermatologically acceptable carrier, and a viscosity of between 50,000cps and 200,000 cps. The improvement in appearance may correspond to a positive change in visual perception scale score, a decrease in blood perfusion, an increase in L values, a decrease in a values, and/or an increase in b values.
In some cases, the method includes identifying a target portion of periorbital skin exhibiting periorbital pigment abnormalities and applying a first personal care composition to the target portion of skin. The first personal care composition comprises from about 0.0001% to about 15%, by weight of the composition, of broad bean extract and a dermatologically acceptable carrier. The method further comprises applying a second personal care composition to the target portion of the skin. The second personal care composition comprises a skin care agent and a dermatologically acceptable carrier.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is an illustration of portions of a human face.
Fig. 2A and 2B show examples of portions of periorbital regions affected by type I periorbital pigment abnormalities.
Fig. 3A and 3B show examples of portions of periorbital regions affected by type II periorbital pigment abnormalities.
Fig. 4A and 4B show examples of portions of periorbital regions affected by type III periorbital pigment abnormalities.
Detailed Description
Reference in the specification to "an embodiment" or similar means that a particular material, feature, structure, and/or characteristic described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment, optionally multiple embodiments, but that this does not mean that all embodiments include the described material, feature, structure, and/or characteristic. Furthermore, the materials, features, structures, and/or characteristics may be combined in any suitable manner in different embodiments and may be omitted or substituted for those described. Thus, unless otherwise stated or an incompatibility is stated or stated, embodiments and aspects described herein may comprise or may be combined with elements or components of other embodiments and/or aspects, although not explicitly exemplified in the combinations.
In all embodiments, all percentages are weight percentages based on the weight of the composition, unless specifically stated otherwise. All ratios are weight ratios unless specifically stated otherwise. All ranges are inclusive and combinable, including narrower ranges, and the stated upper range limits and lower range limits are interchangeable to form additional ranges not explicitly described. The number of significant figures indicates that neither a limitation of the indicated quantity nor a limitation of the accuracy of the measurement is expressed. All numerical values should be understood as modified by the word "about" unless otherwise specifically indicated. Unless otherwise indicated, all measurements are understood to be made at about 25 ℃ and at ambient conditions, where "ambient conditions" means conditions at about 1 atmosphere of pressure and at about 50% relative humidity.
The compositions herein may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of the essential components and optional ingredients described herein. As used herein, "consisting essentially of means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, so long as the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods. As used in the specification and the appended claims, the singular forms "a", "an" and "the" are intended to include the plural forms as well, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise.
By "chronic active" is meant an active suitable for use in a topical cosmetic composition that continues to provide the desired benefit after the active is removed from use. Chronic actives provide relatively long lasting cosmetic benefits compared to acute actives (e.g., pigments, dyes, lakes, and other colorants commonly found in foundations and concealers) typically present in conventional cosmetics intended to cover or hide perceived cosmetic imperfections. In some cases, chronic actives work by repeated use of the active for extended periods of time (e.g., use of the active for more than 1 week). In contrast, acute actives have no lasting effect on the skin, and once the acute active is removed, the skin looks the same as before the acute active was applied. Compositions comprising chronic actives may be administered approximately once daily over such extended periods of time. In some cases, the rate of administration may vary from about once per week to about three times per day, or at some rate in between. The chronic active may provide the desired benefit almost immediately, or after some minimal amount of re-use of the composition (e.g., 1, 2,3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 19, 11, or even 12 weeks). The benefit provided by the chronic active may last for more than 1 day (e.g., more than 2,3, 4, 5, or 6 days), more than 1 week (e.g., more than 2,3, or 4 weeks), or even more than one month after cessation of use of the composition comprising the chronic active.
By "cosmetic" is meant providing a desired visual effect on an area of the human body. The visual effect may be temporary, semi-permanent, or permanent. Some non-limiting examples of "make-up" include products that leave color on the face, such as foundations, mascaras, concealers, eyeliners, brow colors, eye shadows, blushes, lipsticks, lip balms, face powders, solid emulsion compacts, and the like.
By "cosmetic agent" is meant any substance suitable for use in a topical cosmetic composition intended to contact (e.g., wipe, pour, spray, introduce, or otherwise apply to) the mammalian body or any part thereof to provide a cosmetic effect, as well as any component thereof. Cosmetic agents may be chronic or acute and may include substances Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) by the U.S. food and drug administration, food additives, and materials for non-cosmetic consumer products, including over-the-counter medications.
By "cosmetic composition" is meant any composition comprising a cosmetic agent suitable for topical application on mammalian skin.
"disposed" means that an element is positioned in a particular space or location relative to another element.
By "effective amount" is meant an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to significantly induce a positive appearance and/or feel benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects (i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to risk ratio, within the purview of the skilled artisan). In the methods of the invention, an effective amount of a broad bean extract is an amount sufficient to improve the appearance of type II and/or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities during a treatment period.
By "improving the appearance of … …" is meant achieving a desired change or benefit in the appearance of the orbital pigment anomaly. For example, an improvement in the appearance of type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities may correspond to a positive score on the visual perception scale ("VPS"); a reduction in blood perfusion; an increase in the value of L; a decrease in value and/or b increase in value.
"L a b" refers to the accepted color space specified by the international commission on illumination ("CIE"). Three coordinates represent lightness of the color (L ═ 0 yields black and L ═ 100 indicates diffuse white); its position between magenta and green (a, negative values indicate green and positive values indicate magenta) and its position between yellow and blue (b, negative values indicate blue and positive values indicate yellow).
By "periorbital" is meant periorbital. The periorbital region of a person is the area of the face that is generally disposed around the eye socket and is generally located longitudinally between the bottom of the eyebrows and the top of the cheeks and laterally between the bridge of the nose and the Dayang acupoint.
"periorbital pigment abnormalities" are disorders that occur when the skin tone in the periorbital region of a human appears to be significantly different from the tone of the skin in the adjacent parts of the face (such as the cheek, nose, forehead, temples) and/or another part of the periorbital region. Periorbital pigment abnormalities are generally bilateral (i.e., they occur in the periorbital region on both sides of the face). Periorbital pigment abnormalities can manifest as the appearance of differences in skin tone in the periorbital areas relative to other areas of the face and/or body (e.g., cheek, nose, forehead, temples, chin). Periorbital pigment abnormalities can manifest as a result of pigmented or hypopigmented skin in the periorbital region. In some cases, the periorbital pigment abnormalities may be classified either personally or visually by a professional rater (i.e., someone trained to visually classify the periorbital pigment abnormalities). In some cases, the periorbital pigment abnormalities may be classified either personally or visually by a professional rater (i.e., someone trained to visually classify the periorbital pigment abnormalities). In some cases, a diagnostic device configured to use imaging techniques may be used to analyze and/or classify the periorbital pigment abnormalities. It may be desirable to place such diagnostic devices and/or professional graders in a retail environment, for example, in the vicinity of a cosmetic eye-care product. The periorbital pigment abnormalities of types I, II and III are described in more detail below.
By "personal care composition" is meant a composition suitable for topical application to mammalian keratinous tissue that provides an acute or chronic benefit to the keratinous tissue or certain types of cells typically present therein.
By "topical application" is meant application or spreading of the composition of the present invention onto the surface of keratinous tissue.
The discovery that there are different types of periorbital pigment abnormalities with different underlying biological causes and appearances leads to a need to identify chronic active substances and/or combinations of active substances that can provide customized therapeutic solutions for treating each of the different types of periorbital pigment abnormalities. It has been surprisingly found that broad beans, sometimes referred to as fava beans or broad beans (broad beans), can improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities, and more particularly type II and/or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities. While broad bean extracts (INCI name: broad bean seed extract; CAS number 89958-06-5) are known for promoting hair health and growth and as skin moisturizers (see, e.g., U.S. patent publication 2013/0189381, filed by Dal Farra et al), it was not previously known that broad bean extracts could be used to improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities. Furthermore, the present study also indicates that the fava bean extract may not adversely affect the appearance of type I periorbital pigment abnormalities, which is particularly desirable where the consumer's type of periorbital pigment abnormalities is misidentified and treated with the fava bean extract.
Types of periorbital pigment abnormalities
There are a variety of evaluation techniques that are suitable for identifying and/or evaluating the type of periorbital pigment abnormality that a human exhibits (e.g., visual evaluation, blood perfusion, image analysis, histological analysis, biomarker analysis, gene expression profiling, and/or gene expression topic analysis). Suitable examples of Systems and Methods for Classifying Periorbital pigment anomalies, and descriptions of different types, are described in U.S. serial No. 14/215,785, filed by Osorio et al on 17.3.2014 and entitled "Methods of Classifying periodic dye and Systems Therefor". In the methods of the invention, the periorbital pigment abnormalities exhibited by humans can be classified as type I, type II, or type III. Alternatively, a person may have a "achrome abnormality" condition.
Fig. 1 shows the periorbital region of a human face 5, which is divided into three regions 11, 12 and 13 that can be used to help identify different types of periorbital pigment anomalies. Region 111 is disposed generally in an interior portion of the ocular region and extends laterally from the interior angle 4 of the eye to about half the distance from the exterior angle 6 of the eye. Zone 212 extends from the distal edge of zone 111 (i.e., from about the midpoint under the eye) to the outer corner 6 of the eye. Zone 111 and zone 212 extend longitudinally from the lower eyelid to the top of the zygomatic bone. Zone 3 is disposed above the eye and extends laterally from the interior angle 4 of the eye to the exterior angle 6 of the eye. Region 313 also extends longitudinally from the top of the eye to the eyebrow.
Type I periorbital pigment abnormalities are visually characterized by a continuous discoloration of both the upper and lower eyelid skin. The discolored periorbital skin associated with type I periorbital pigment abnormalities typically includes a substantially uniform brown, yellow, and/or orange hue of the skin of the periorbital area, which may be similar to the color of a tanned skin or age spots. Type I periorbital pigment abnormalities may also generally be defined in part by their location in the upper and lower portions of the periorbital region of the face (e.g., near the lower and upper eyelids). In other words, type I periorbital pigment abnormalities are typically manifested in zones 1 and 3, and in some cases zone 2. Type II periorbital pigment abnormality is characterized by a continuous discoloration of the lower eyelid skin. The discolored periorbital skin associated with type II periorbital pigment abnormalities typically includes substantially uniform shades of purple, pink, and/or blue, which may be similar to the color of abraded skin. Type II is generally defined in part by its presence in the inner inferior portion of the periorbital region (i.e., zone 1), and its absence in the upper portion of the periorbital region (i.e., upper eyelid or zone 3) and the outer inferior portion (i.e., zone 2). Type III periorbital pigment abnormalities are characterized by the presence of a skin tone similar to that of sunburned skin. Type III is generally defined in part by its presence in the sub-ocular and supra-ocular portions of the peri-orbital region. The pigment-free abnormality disorder may be visually characterized by the absence of uneven or discontinuous skin tone in the periorbital region.
Fig. 2A and 2B show examples of type I periorbital pigment abnormalities, represented by shaded portions 200 and 201, respectively, of the peribox area. Fig. 3A and 3B show examples of type II periorbital pigment abnormalities (i.e., shaded portions 300 and 301, respectively, of the peribox region). Fig. 4A and 4B show examples of type III periorbital pigment abnormalities (i.e., shaded portions 400 and 401, respectively, of the peri-box region). In some cases, the type of boxed pigment anomaly may be identified according to the present method based on its location in the periorbital region, as shown in fig. 2A, 2B, 3A, 3B, 4A, and/or 4B.
Different types of periorbital pigment anomalies can be distinguished from one another using known imaging techniques such as RGB color imaging. For example, type I periorbital pigment abnormalities may be characterized as generally having lower RGB values relative to type II and III. Type II periorbital pigment abnormalities may be characterized as generally having higher RGB values relative to types I and III. Type III periorbital pigment abnormalities may include characteristics of both type I and type II.
Type I, type II and type III periorbital pigment abnormalities can also be distinguished from each other using histological evaluation techniques including, for example, sectioning and staining, followed by examination under a microscope (e.g., light or electron microscope). In particular, it has been found that the abundance and/or location of certain cellular structures (e.g., melanin) within skin biopsy samples obtained from periorbital skin can be used to distinguish type I, type II, and type III periorbital pigment abnormalities from one another. For example, type I periorbital pigment abnormalities may be characterized by excess melanin in the epidermis and the unexpected presence of melanin in the dermis of a skin sample. On the other hand, type II periorbital pigment abnormalities may be characterized by melanin deficiency in the epidermis and absence of melanin in the dermis. Type III periorbital pigment abnormalities may be characterized by a combination of type I and type II properties.
In some cases, type I, type II, and type III periorbital pigment abnormalities are distinguished from each other by the absence and/or abundance of specific molecules in the epidermis of the peribox skin, such as pyrrole-2, 3, 5-tricarboxylic acid ("PTCA"), which is formed as a result of oxidative degradation of eumelanin. It has been found that type I and type III periorbital pigment abnormalities have higher PTCA levels than type II, and that type I can exhibit higher PTCA levels than type III.
Application method
The methods herein include topically applying a personal care composition to a target skin surface disposed in a periorbital region of a human exhibiting periorbital pigment abnormalities. The personal care composition comprises a safe and effective amount of fava bean extract, i.e., an amount of fava bean extract sufficient to improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities, particularly type II and/or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities, after a suitable course of treatment (e.g., at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks, or 8 weeks).
The target skin surface may be identified by a person exhibiting periorbital pigment abnormalities (e.g., by self-assessment), a professional rater (e.g., in person or from an image of the person), a combination of a diagnostic device and a suitable diagnostic method (e.g., a combination of a digital camera and suitable image analysis software), or a combination thereof. For example, the identification method may include examining zones 1, 2, and/or 3 of the periorbital region of the subject and evaluating the color, location, and/or intensity of the periorbital pigment anomaly to identify the periorbital pigment anomaly as a particular type (e.g., type II or type III). Once the periorbital pigment abnormalities present on the target skin surface are identified, the present compositions can be applied to the target skin surface for a period of time sufficient to improve the appearance of the periorbital pigment abnormalities. The improvement in periorbital pigment abnormalities herein can be demonstrated by: a positive VPS score (e.g., +0.1 to +4 or any value within this range), a reduction in blood perfusion (e.g., a reduction of at least 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, or even 25); an increase in L value (e.g., an increase of at least 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, or even an increase of 1 or more); a reduction in value (e.g., by at least 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, or even by 1 or more); and/or an increase in b value (e.g., an increase of at least 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, or even an increase of 1 or more). The methods of determining VPS fraction, blood perfusion and la a b values are described in more detail below.
Type II and/or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities may be treated according to the methods of the present invention by applying a composition comprising an effective amount of fava bean extract to the pigmentary abnormality of the skin about once a day, twice a day, or even more frequently during a treatment period. In some cases, the composition may be administered one or more times per week, but less than once per day, e.g., 2,3, 4, 5, or 6 times per week. For example, the composition may be applied in the morning after bathing, in the evening before sleep and/or as part of a daily cosmetic regimen. The treatment period may last for 1 week or more (e.g., 2,3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or even 8 weeks or more), for months (e.g., 2-12 months), or even for years. For chronic actives, the treatment period should be long enough to improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities.
It may be desirable to administer the composition topically. As used herein, "localized," "local," and "locally" mean that the composition is delivered to a target area of the skin (i.e., a target portion of the periorbital skin that exhibits periorbital pigment abnormalities) while minimizing delivery to portions of the skin that do not require treatment. For example, depending on the type of periorbital pigment abnormality to be treated, the composition may be applied to the target skin surface in zones 1, 2, and/or 3 and gently massaged into the target skin surface. Alternatively, the composition may be applied to the entire periorbital region or even the entire face. Alternatively, "generally" or "generally" when referring to applying the composition means applying the composition to the targeted area of the skin and one or more additional areas other than the targeted area (e.g., skin care composition applied to the entire face, including the targeted skin portion in the periorbital area).
In some cases, it may be desirable to use the present compositions as part of a skin care regimen. For example, a first composition comprising an effective amount of fava bean extract can be applied generally or topically to skin in the periorbital region of the face, and a second composition comprising one or more skin care agents (e.g., a toning agent or moisturizing agent) can be applied to portions of the skin disposed outside the periorbital region (e.g., the entire face or portions thereof). The first and second compositions may be applied in any order as desired so long as the therapeutic effect of the broad bean extract is not adversely inhibited.
The form of the composition or dermatologically acceptable carrier should be selected to facilitate application. In some cases, the composition may be delivered using an applicator suitable for general and/or topical application. For example, the applicator can be configured to apply 1 to 50 μ L/cm2The composition of (a) is suitably applied to the target skin surface. Of course, it will be understood that no applicator is required, and that the personal care compositions herein may also be applied directly by using the fingers of a human or in other conventional ways.
Composition comprising a metal oxide and a metal oxide
Compositions suitable for use in the methods herein comprise an effective amount of a broad bean extract disposed in a dermatologically acceptable carrier. The broad bean extract herein may be a peptide hydrolysate produced by proteolysis of broad bean. Peptide hydrolysates generally comprise a mixture of compounds represented primarily by peptides. The term "peptide" refers to a sequence of two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds or modified peptide bonds; however, the term "polypeptide" means a larger peptide (e.g., more than four). The use of peptide hydrolysates, in particular low molecular weight peptide hydrolysates, has a number of advantages in cosmetics. In addition to producing compounds of a peptidic nature which are not already present in the starting protein mixture, hydrolysis and purification make it possible to provide cosmetic compositions which are more stable, easier to standardize and result in fewer allergic reactions. An example of a broad bean extract suitable for use herein is FOLLISYNC, available from Ashland Specialty Ingredients, New Jersey.
The broad bean extracts herein may be obtained by extracting proteins from seeds of broad bean plants, hydrolyzing them, and then optionally purifying the peptide fragments. Additionally or alternatively, the protein may be extracted from the whole plant or a particular part of the plant (leaf, stem, root, etc.). In some cases, extraction is carried out by crushing the seeds (or other parts of the plant) and suspending the crushed seeds in an alkaline solution containing an insoluble polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVPP) adsorbent (0.01-20%), which facilitates subsequent hydrolysis and purification operations. After centrifugation and filtration, the soluble fraction containing proteins and carbohydrates was collected. The crude solution is then hydrolyzed under controlled conditions to yield soluble peptides. The hydrolysis is carried out chemically and/or advantageously with proteolytic enzymes. To remove polyphenolic substances, an amount of PVPP may be added to the reaction medium during this controlled hydrolysis step. Next, the solution was filtered to remove the enzyme. The resulting filtrate (solution) can be diluted as necessary and sterilized to obtain, for example, a peptide extract characterized by a peptide content of 1 to 4g/L (e.g., 1.5 to 3.5 g/L). The hydrolysate can be further purified by ultrafiltration to select for low molecular weight fractions (e.g., less than 6 kDa). In some cases, at least 70% (e.g., at least 85%) of the peptide compounds present in the ultrafiltration extract are peptides having a size of less than 6 kDa. The extract may have a pH of 4 to 7 (e.g. 4 to 5) and a sugar content of between 0.5 and 1 g/L. Non-limiting examples of preparing broad bean extracts are disclosed in U.S. patent publication 2013/0189381 filed by Dal Farra et al.
In the treatment method of the present invention, broad bean extract is included as a chronic active substance in a topical cosmetic composition for the treatment of periorbital pigment abnormalities, in particular type II and/or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities. The broad bean extract may be present at 0.0001% to 15%, 0.0002% to 10%, 0.001% to 15%, 0.025% to 10%, 0.05% to 5%, or even 0.1% to 5% by weight of the total composition. The amount of "effective" fava bean extract can vary from one particular source of extract (e.g., the manufacturer) to another and can be determined by the skilled artisan based on the level of activity (e.g., the level of active components present) of a particular extract product. As with any extract, the concentration of active ingredient in the particular extract product to be used will depend on factors such as the final dilution volume of the extract product, the particular extraction method employed, the natural range of variation between individual plants, and other common factors known to those skilled in the art.
Cosmetic compositions that may be used in conjunction with the methods herein may be in a wide variety of product forms, including, but not limited to, solutions, suspensions, lotions, creams, gels, lotions, stick products, pencil products, sprays, aerosols, salves, liquid cleansing solutions and solid sticks, shampoos and hair conditioners, ointments, foams, powders, mousses, shaving creams, wipes, dipsticks, concealers, electronic powder concealers, wound dressings and adhesive bandages, hydrogels, film forming products, facial and skin masks (with or without insoluble pieces), cosmetics such as foundation foundations, eye liners, and eye shadows, and the like.
The skin in the periorbital region of a human is typically thinner and more delicate than skin in the face or many other parts of the body. Thus, it may be desirable for the compositions of the present invention to have a viscosity that promotes regular use of the product. If the product viscosity is too low, it may be difficult to control the application of the product to small, delicate areas of the eye, as the product tends to spread or run too much on the skin and may even enter the eye, possibly causing irritation. On the other hand, if the viscosity is too high, the product may drag and pull the skin as it spreads, making it difficult to apply or even damaging or irritating delicate periorbital skin. Thus, the products for use herein have a viscosity of between 50,000cps to 200,000cps (e.g., between 70,000cps and 150,000cps, between 90,000cps and 120,000cps, or any value within these ranges). The viscosity is measured at 20 ℃. + -. 2 ℃ using a Brookfield DV-II + brand viscometer with a T-C spindle, rotation speed of 5rpm, with a crane arrangement, or equivalent.
Furthermore, due to its proximity to the eye, it may be desirable for the compositions of the present invention to have opacity that provides acute benefits and/or promotes regular use of the product. For example, if the opacity of the composition is too low, it may not mask the appearance of the periorbital pigment anomaly it is intended to treat. On the other hand, in this example, if the product opacity is too high, the product may suitably mask the appearance of the periorbital pigment anomaly, but result in an unnatural appearance. The opacity of the composition may be determined according to the contrast ratio method described in more detail below. The compositions herein have a contrast ratio of 5 to 40 (e.g., 7 to 30, 8 to 20).
Dermatologically acceptable carrier
The compositions herein include a dermatologically acceptable carrier (which may be referred to as a "carrier"). The phrase "dermatologically acceptable carrier" means that the carrier is suitable for topical application to keratinous tissue, has good aesthetic properties, is compatible with the active in the composition, and does not pose any unreasonable safety or toxicity concerns. In one embodiment, the carrier is present at a level of from about 50% to about 99%, from about 60% to about 98%, from about 70% to about 98%, or from about 80% to about 95%, by weight of the composition.
The vector may take a variety of forms. In some cases, the solubility or dispersibility of a component (e.g., extract, sunscreen active, additional component) may determine the form and characteristics of the carrier. Non-limiting examples include simple solutions (e.g., aqueous or anhydrous), dispersions, emulsions, and solid forms (e.g., gels, sticks, flowable solids, or amorphous materials). In certain embodiments, the dermatologically acceptable carrier is in the form of an emulsion. Emulsions can generally be classified as having a continuous aqueous phase (e.g., oil-in-water and water-in-oil-in-water) or a continuous oil phase (e.g., water-in-oil or oil-in-water). The oil phase of the present invention may comprise silicone oils, non-silicone oils (such as hydrocarbon oils, esters, ethers, and the like), and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase typically comprises water and water-soluble ingredients (e.g., water-soluble moisturizers, conditioners, antimicrobials, humectants, and/or other skin care actives).
Optional ingredients
The compositions of the present invention may optionally comprise one or more additional ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions (e.g., colorants, skin tone modulators, skin anti-aging agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sunscreens, combinations of these, and the like), provided that the additional ingredients do not adversely alter the periorbital pigment abnormal appearance improvement benefits provided by the compositions of the present invention. When present, the additional ingredients may be present at levels of from 0.0001% to 50% by weight of the composition; 0.001% to 20%; or even 0.01% to 10%. When incorporated into the composition, the additional ingredients should be suitable for use in contact with human skin tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like. Some non-limiting examples of additional ingredients that may be suitable for use herein are described in U.S. patent publications 2006/0275237 and 2004/0175347, both filed by Bissett et al.
In some cases, the compositions used according to the methods of the present invention comprise from 0.001% to 40% (e.g., from 1% to 30%, or from 2% to 20%) of one or more particulate materials and/or cosmetic powders to provide acute appearance and/or feel benefits. These particles may be, for example, plate-shaped, spherical, elongated or needle-shaped, or irregularly shaped; surface coated or uncoated (e.g., hydrophobically coated); porous or non-porous; charged or uncharged; and may be added to the composition of the present invention as a powder or pre-dispersion. For example, pigmentary grade metal oxide particles (e.g., having an average primary particle size of greater than 100nm or from 100nm to 500 nm) may optionally be included to provide appearance benefits. Some non-limiting examples of particulate matter for use herein are described in U.S. patent publications 2012/0021027, 2010/0074928, 2010/0003205, 2010/0003293, and 2013/0243835.
In another example, the composition used in accordance with the method of the present invention may comprise a powder in the form of spherical particles, providing acute appearance and/or feel benefits. Spherical particle powders tend to improve the rate at which the product appears to be absorbed into the skin, which helps increase control over product application (e.g., less prone to entering the eye and causing irritation). Thus, the spherical particle powders herein have a median particle size of from 2 μm to 40 μm (e.g., from 3 μm to 25 μm or even from 5 μm to 15 μm). The spherical particle powder may also increase the smooth feel of the product film on the skin. Accordingly, it may be desirable to select spherical particles that are non-tacky and have a rubber hardness (as measured by durometer a defined in JIS K6253) in the range of 10 to 90 (e.g., 20 to 80, or even 25 to 75). In one particularly suitable example, the composition includes 2% to 20% (e.g., 4% to 12%) spherical silicone elastomer particles or spherical starch particles. The amount of silicone elastomer powder in the composition is determined based on the particulate matter in pure form (i.e., not swollen in solvent). Some non-limiting examples of spherical particle powders are described in co-pending U.S. serial numbers 14/596,360 and 14/596,374, filed by Jansen et al on day 14/1 of 2015.
Method
Visual perception method
The method provides a method for quantitatively evaluating the change in appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities using the visual perception scale ("VPS"). The visual rating described herein is performed by a trained rater for captured images of test subjects, but the method may also be readily adapted for self-diagnosis of periorbital pigment abnormalities by consumers and/or for examination of a person's periorbital region within another person. For example, it may be desirable to train a beauty counselor that interacts with consumers in a retail environment to classify periorbital pigment anomalies. A comparison of the baseline image acquired at week 0 to subsequent time point images is performed. The degree of change was scored using a scale of-4 to +4 scale values as shown in table 1 below. Negative numbers indicate that periorbital pigment abnormalities look better at baseline, whereas positive numbers reflect an improvement in the appearance of the subject relative to baseline. The area of the periorbital region that is rated includes the orbital region generally below the eye, extending from the inner corner of the eye along the cheek bone and around to the outer corner of the eye, including the lateral orbital rim. The area of the periorbital region rated in this method does not include the lower eyelid (as defined by the lower eyelashes), the upper eyelid, or the area directly below the upper orbital. Characteristics considered by raters include: 1) the relative appearance of abnormally discolored, dark colors of periorbital pigments compared to the surrounding skin tone; 2) the amount, footprint, or pattern of affected areas of periorbital pigment abnormality; and 3) the appearance of the pigmented tone involved in the color change and its intensity.
TABLE 1 quantity scale
Figure BDA0001827165800000131
Figure BDA0001827165800000141
Blood perfusion method
Blood perfusion is generally considered to be the process of delivering blood to a capillary bed in biological tissue. Blood vessels and blood in the capillary bed of the periorbital region are visible through the relatively thin periorbital skin. Thus, when less blood is visible in and around the capillary bed of the periorbital skin, there is a corresponding improvement in the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities. The blood perfusion method provides a suitable method of measuring changes in the amount of blood present in the capillary bed of the periorbital skin.
Blood perfusion methods use a blood perfusion imager (e.g., PeriCam)TMPSI brand imager or equivalent) based on laser speckle contrast analysis ("LASCA") technology with PIMsoft for real-time display of tissue blood perfusionTMBrand specific applications software or equivalent. The test subjects sit comfortably within 10cm to 25cm of the imager and are instructed to close their eyes. Three images of the test subject's face (i.e., perfusion, intensity, and standard color images) were captured and recorded by the imager according to the manufacturer's instructions. Using dedicated application software, the periorbital region of the test subject is masked (i.e., designated as the region of interest) to obtain perfusion measurements in the periorbital region of interestMagnitude. Masking is described in more detail in the imaging methods below.
Contrast ratio method
Herein, "contrast ratio" refers to the opacity of the composition (i.e., the ability of the composition to reduce or prevent light transmission) as determined after spreading the composition on an opaque drawing board (Form N2A, Leneta Company (Manwah, NJ), or their equivalent). The contrast ratio was measured using a spectrophotometer, with settings selected to exclude specular reflection. The composition is applied to the surface of an opaque drawing sheet and then stretched into a film having a thickness of about 25 microns using a film applicator such as that commercially available from BYK Gardner (Columbia, Maryland), or their equivalents. The film was allowed to dry at 22 deg.C +/-1 deg.C for 2 hours at 1 atmosphere. The Y tristimulus values of the product film (i.e., the XYZ color space of the film) were measured and recorded using a spectrophotometer with settings selected to exclude specular reflections. The Y tristimulus values in the three different areas of the product film were measured on the black part of the opaque panel and also on the white part of the opaque panel.
The contrast is calculated as the mathematical average of the three Y tristimulus values in the black area divided by the mathematical average of the three Y tristimulus values in the white area, multiplied by 100:
Figure BDA0001827165800000151
image forming method
The method provides means for capturing reproducible and analyzable images for determination of L a b values and VPS testing. Any suitable image capture device may be used, along with imaging software and other associated ancillary equipment (e.g., computers and lights). A particularly suitable imaging system is Visia
Figure BDA0001827165800000152
Brand imaging System, available from Canfield Scientific, New Jersey。
Figure BDA0001827165800000153
Brand imaging system adopts
Figure BDA0001827165800000154
The brand EOS-1Ds Mk III SLR camera, which includes a CMOS sensor and provides 21.1 megapixel resolution (14 bit a/D converter).
Images can be collected under different illumination modes using standard light, UV, cross polarization, parallel polarization, or a combination of these. For example, the values and ranges described herein were recorded using a (D65/2) light source. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that these values can be recorded with a wide range of different illuminations (D50, D75, light sources A, F2, F7, F11, TL84, etc., or 2 or 10 degree observers) according to conversion methods well known to those skilled in the art, and that when such conversion occurs, the color values will typically change accordingly. In other words, a similar relationship between values and ranges will be seen even though the actual limits and/or ranges may vary based on the conditions under which the images are captured. For example, if the camera has lower spectral sensitivity in the red channel than the cameras described herein, the R channel response may be lower and the corresponding L a b color values will be different, in which case this may result in lower a values and/or higher b values. Accordingly, different camera sensitivities, illuminations, and related exposures are contemplated, and the actual limits and/or ranges disclosed herein may vary depending on the particular environment in which the image is captured, without departing from the scope of the systems and/or methods described herein.
In preparation for image capture, the test subjects needed to wash their face and wait at least 15 minutes to allow their faces to dry. The subject's hair was covered with a hair net, and the subject's head and shoulders were covered with black cloth. It can be seen that all jewelry in the image area of interest is removed. The subject is positioned so that the subject's chin rests comfortably on the imaging system's chin rest and the front image of the face (as opposed to the left or right image) can be properly captured by the image capture device. After subject positioning, one or more images are captured with the eyes of the subject open (e.g., between 1 and 24, between 2 and 20, or even between 3 and 15). It is important to ensure that the subject's eyes are open at the time the image is captured, otherwise a closed upper eyelid may result in inaccurate pigmentation readings. The captured image is processed by converting the original image into a jpg file format.
The jpg format image is then analyzed by a computer using suitable image analysis software. In some cases, it may be desirable to analyze only a portion of the image (e.g., regions 1, 2, and/or 3 of the periorbital region). Portions of the image to be analyzed may be analyzed using image editing software such as
Figure BDA0001827165800000161
Or
Figure BDA0001827165800000162
Brand software "masks". The masked areas can then be separated and analyzed as separate images. It will be appreciated that the image need not necessarily be masked for proper analysis, and in some cases the entire image may be analyzed. In some cases, it may be desirable to reduce the size of the image, mask, and/or region of interest by a few pixels (e.g., between 5 and 15 pixels) around the outer edge of the image, where some shading may occur.
The RGB values in the device-dependent image are converted to la b values. The L a b values can be calculated using a suitable RGB conversion tool under D65 illumination and a 2 degree observer (i.e., D65/2) (e.g., software installed on a computer or a suitable conversion tool found online). The conversion from RGB values to la b values may be performed for the entire image, a portion thereof, or for one or more individual pixels. The resulting values of la b may be averaged to provide an average value for the image, mask and/or region of interest.
In some cases, pixels may be analyzed individually and each pixel classified as corresponding to a particular type of periorbital pigment anomaly based on one or more of the la b values. When analyzed separately, pixels can be analyzed according to their distribution among different types of periorbital pigment anomalies. Because color may be perceived as relative, depending on, for example, which instrument and/or imaging system is used, it may be important to color correct the shaded region of each subject using appropriate color correction techniques (e.g., according to international color consortium standards and practices), which helps make color determinations by the system less instrument specific. In some cases, it may be desirable to normalize the colors in a region of interest (e.g., a masked region) to the base skin tone of a nearby region (e.g., a cheek). For example, the base skin tone of the cheek may be obtained by masking a region of interest in the cheek and converting the RGB values in the masked region to the L a b values as described above. The resulting base skin color value of the cheek may then be subtracted from the corresponding value of the region of interest to provide a normalized value. Color normalization may be performed for the entire region of interest (e.g., the average of the ROI) or on a pixel-by-pixel basis for some or all of the pixels in the ROI, which may be 200,000 or more pixels.
Examples
Example 1 formulation example
Table 2 shows five exemplary oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic compositions for use in the method according to the present invention. Compositions a to E can be prepared as follows. The aqueous phase ingredients were mixed and heated to 75 ℃ in a suitable vessel. In a separate suitable container, the oil phase ingredients are mixed and heated to 75 ℃. Adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase, and grinding the resulting emulsion (e.g. using TEKMAR)TMT-25 or equivalent). The thickener was added to the emulsion and cooled to 45 ℃ while stirring. The remaining ingredients were added at 45 ℃. The product was cooled to 30 ℃ with stirring and poured into a suitable container.
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0001827165800000171
Figure BDA0001827165800000181
1Palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-lysine-serine, available from Sederma (France)
2Titanium dioxide coated mica, available from Kobo Products Inc.
3Tapioca starch and polymethylsilsesquioxane available from Akzo Nobel
4FOLLISYNC available from Ashland Specialty Ingredients, New Jersey
Table 3 shows five exemplary silicone-in-water emulsion cosmetic compositions for use in the method according to the present invention. Compositions F to J can be prepared as follows. In a suitable vessel, the aqueous phase ingredients are mixed and stirred until homogeneous. In a separate suitable container, the silicone/oil phase ingredients are combined and mixed until homogeneous. Adding half of the thickener, then adding the silicone/oil phase to the aqueous phase, and grinding the resulting emulsion (e.g., with Tekmar @)TMT-25). While stirring, the remainder of the thickener is added to the emulsion, followed by the remaining ingredients. Once the composition is homogeneous, the product is poured into a suitable container.
TABLE 3
Figure BDA0001827165800000191
1Palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-lysine-serine, available from Sederma (France)
2Silicone elastomer dispersion from Dow Corning Corp.
3Silicone elastomer Dispersion from Shin Etsu
4Vinyl Dimethicone/Methylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer from Shinetsu
5Titanium dioxide coated mica, available from Kobo Products Inc.
6Titanium dioxide andtin oxide coated mica, available from Eckart.
7Iron oxide coated mica, available from Engelhard Corporation.
8Tapioca starch and polymethylsilsesquioxane available from Akzo Nobel
9FOLLISYNC available from Ashland Specialty Ingredients, New Jersey
Table 4 shows two exemplary water-in-silicone emulsion cosmetic compositions for use in the method according to the present invention. Compositions K and L can be prepared as follows. In a suitable vessel, the phase a components are blended with a suitable stirrer until all components are dissolved. In a suitable vessel, blend phase B components and stir until homogeneous. Add phase a slowly to phase B with stirring and continue stirring until homogeneous. The resulting product is milled with a suitable mill (e.g., TEKMAR T-25) for about 5 minutes. Next, phase C was added while stirring the product. Stirring was continued until the product was homogeneous and the product was poured into a suitable container.
TABLE 4
Figure BDA0001827165800000201
Figure BDA0001827165800000211
1Palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-lysine-serine, available from Sederma (France)
2KSG-21 is an emulsified silicone elastomer available from Shin Etsu
3Silicone elastomer Dispersion from Dow Corning Corp
4Abil EM-97 available from Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation
5Silane surface treated titanium dioxide coated mica, available from Kobo Products Inc.
6FOLLISYNC available from Ashland Specialty Ingredients, New Jersey.
Table 5 shows an example of a personal care composition for use in the method of the present invention. The composition is prepared by first combining and mixing the aqueous phase ingredients in a vessel while heating to about 75 ℃ until homogeneous. At the same time, the ingredients of part 1 of the oil phase were weighed into separate containers and mixed while heating to about 75 ℃ until homogeneous. Once both respective phases are homogeneous, portion 1 of the oil phase is added to the aqueous phase. The resulting mixture is subjected to high shear mixing (e.g., Flacktek high speed mixer, or rotor-stator mill) and then cooled while stirring. When the temperature reached about 60 ℃, the thickener was then added while stirring was continued. Finally, when the batch reached about 50 ℃, oil phase portion 2 was added and the ingredients were added separately as cooling continued. The active (i.e., fava bean extract) is added while stirring at about 40 ℃. Once all ingredients are in the formulation and the temperature is about 40 ℃, the resulting mixture is again subjected to high shear mixing, and the product is then poured into a suitable container.
TABLE 5
Figure BDA0001827165800000221
1Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, and laureth-7 from Seppic, France.
2Polydimethylsiloxanes and dimethiconols available from Dow Corning, Midland, MI
3FOLLISYNC available from Ashland Specialty Ingredients, New Jersey.
Example 2: in vivo studies (VPS, blood perfusion and imaging)
This example demonstrates the ability of the present method to improve the appearance of type II and type III periorbital pigment variants. A nine week split-surface cycling design study summoned twenty-five white female subjects aged 20 to 60 years to evaluate the ability of broad bean extract to improve the appearance of type II and type III periorbital pigment variations. The oil-in-water emulsion of example R from table 5 was evaluated in this study.
During the study, the infraocular portion of the periorbital region on the left side of the test subject's face (i.e., shaded region 400 in fig. 4A) was treated with the test composition, and the infraocular portion of the periorbital region on the right side of the test subject's face was treated with the vehicle control (i.e., the same composition as the test composition except that no fava bean extract was present). Test subjects were instructed to use the cleaning cloth and facial moisturizer provided to them twice daily. The test subjects were also instructed to avoid any eye treatment product during the study and to avoid excessive uv exposure which could lead to facial sunburn or tanning. Test subjects were allowed to use their normal cosmetic products (e.g., foundation, blush, eyeliner, and lipliner) five minutes after applying the composition under the eye, but were asked to change brands. The test subjects administered the control and test compositions twice a day; once in the morning and once in the evening for at least 30 minutes before going to bed. Approximately 0.04g or 40-50 μ l of each composition was applied to the appropriate periorbital skin under the eye. Images and blood perfusion data were collected at week 0 (baseline), week 2, week 4 and week 8 for the visual perception scale, imaging and blood perfusion methods described above. Baseline values were determined at the start of the test (week 0) and the control values were averaged across all test subjects.
The results of the in vivo study for test subjects exhibiting type II periorbital pigment abnormality are shown in tables 6, 7 and 8 below and the results of the in vivo study for test subjects exhibiting type III periorbital pigment abnormality are shown in tables 9, 10 and 11. The results shown in tables 6 to 11 are the average values of the average values. For each paired comparison, each endpoint was analyzed using a mixed model, which included random effects (test subjects), therapeutic effects, and fixed effects (side of face and baseline). In this test, unilateral p-values are used to compare the efficacy of treatment when compared to controls. P-values of 0.2 or less and 0.8 or greater are considered statistically significant, and p-values less than 0.3 but greater than 0.2 and less than 0.8 but greater than 0.7 are considered statistically trends. As can be seen from the results, the broad bean extract provided an improvement in the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities.
Table 6 shows the change in VPS from baseline values for treatment of type II periorbital pigment abnormality with the test composition and vehicle control.
TABLE 6
Figure BDA0001827165800000241
Table 7 shows the change in blood perfusion values from baseline for treatment of type II periorbital pigment abnormality with the test composition and vehicle control.
TABLE 7
Figure BDA0001827165800000242
Table 8 shows the change in the imaged values (i.e., L, a, and b values) from the baseline values for treatment of type II periorbital pigment abnormalities with the test compositions and vehicle controls.
TABLE 8
Figure BDA0001827165800000243
Table 9 shows the change in VPS score relative to baseline values for treatment of type III periorbital pigment abnormalities with the test compositions and vehicle control.
TABLE 9
Figure BDA0001827165800000251
Table 10 shows the change in blood perfusion values from baseline for treatment of type III periorbital pigment abnormality with the test composition and vehicle control.
Watch 10
Figure BDA0001827165800000252
Table 11 shows the change in the imaged values (i.e., L, a, and b values) from the baseline values for treatment of type III periorbital pigment abnormalities using the test compositions and vehicle controls.
TABLE 11
Figure BDA0001827165800000253
Example 3: in vitro studies (B16-melanin assay)
This example demonstrates that broad bean extract does not have the ability to inhibit melanin synthesis. Excess melanin is believed to be the major contributor to the appearance of type I periorbital pigment abnormalities, but not to type II periorbital pigment abnormalities. Thus, treatment of type I periorbital pigment abnormalities with fava bean extract should not provide any improvement in its appearance, as evidenced by the lack of melanin inhibiting activity in the conventional B16 assay. This is important because it shows that the "one-knife" regimen may not be the best way to treat all types of periorbital melanin abnormalities. For example, compositions utilizing broad bean extract may not improve the appearance of type I periorbital pigment abnormalities.
In this example, a commercially available B16-F1 mouse melanoma cell line obtained from the American Tissue Culture Collection (Virginia, USA) was used in a conventional melanin synthesis inhibition assay. The cell culture medium used in the assay was 500mL Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium (DMEM), 50mL Fetal Bovine Serum (FBS), and 5mL penicillin-streptomycin liquid. B16-F1 cells cultured in this medium and grown to a confluency of greater than 90% will synthesize melanin. While not intending to be bound by any theory, it is speculated that melanin synthesis is initiated by stress resulting from the culture medium and/or growth to high confluency. DMEM and FBS are available from American Tissue Culture Collectionion, and penicillin-streptomycin liquid is available from Invitrogen, inc, California, USA. The apparatus used in the assay comprises CO2Incubators, such as the Forma series 3110 model of thermal Scientific (Massachusetts, USA); hemocytometer such as the Bright Line model by Hauser Scientific (Pennsylvania, USA); and uv-vis spectroscopy well plate readers, such as SpectraMax250 available from Molecular Devices (California, USA).
Day 0: to begin the assay, the cell culture medium was heated to 37 ℃ and 29mL of medium was placed in a T-150 flask. Will be about 1 × 106B16-F1 generation mouse cells of (1) were added to a T-150 flask and incubated at 37 ℃ with 5% CO2And cultured for 3 days at 90% relative humidity until about 80% confluency.
Day 3: cells from T-150 flasks were trypsinized and the concentration of cells was determined using a hemocytometer. A96-well plate was primed in 100. mu.L of cell culture medium, with 2,500 cells per well. The plates were incubated at 37 ℃, 5% CO2, 90% relative humidity for 2 days until at least 20% to 40% confluency.
Day 5: cell culture medium was removed from the plates and replaced with fresh medium (100 uL per well). Test compounds diluted in water solvent were added at 1 uL. Multiple dilution ratios are determined to generate a dose response curve, wherein preferably three wells are treated with each dilution ratio. Positive and negative controls may include wells with cell culture medium, B16-F1 cells, and solvent (negative control), as well as wells containing cell culture medium, B16-F1 cells, and known melanin inhibitors (e.g., deoxyarbutin or kojic acid).
Day 7: the cells should have a confluency of greater than about 90%. If not, the data point is not taken. To each well was added 100uL of 0.75% sodium hydroxide solution. The 96-well plate was read at 410nm using a uv-visible well plate reader to optically determine the amount of melanin produced between wells treated with broad bean extract and control wells not treated with broad bean extract. The melanin-producing wells appear brown. Pores in which almost no melanin was produced appeared clear to light purple. Percent melanin synthesis inhibition was calculated from the formula:
Figure BDA0001827165800000271
where OD410 is the optical density at 410nm as measured by an ultraviolet-visible spectrum well plate reader.
When control #3 was used, the formula for percent melanin synthesis inhibition was:
Figure BDA0001827165800000272
the concentration of test agent required to provide the IC 50 is recorded.
Table 12 shows the concentration of each composition required to provide an IC 50. The positive controls used in this example were deoxyarbutin and kojic acid, both of which are well known melanin synthesis inhibitors. As shown in table 12, the concentration of the test composition required to obtain an IC 50 was much higher than either deoxyarbutin or kojic acid, indicating that the fava bean extract tested in this example is a poor inhibitor of melanin synthesis.
TABLE 12
Figure BDA0001827165800000281
1FOLLISYNC available from Ashland Specialty Ingredients, New Jersey.
Examples and combinations
A. A method of improving the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities, the method comprising:
i. identifying a target portion of skin in a periorbital region of a human exhibiting type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities; and
applying a personal care composition to a target portion of skin during a treatment period, the personal care composition comprising an effective amount of a Vicia faba (Vicia faba) extract, a dermatologically acceptable carrier, and a viscosity of about 50,000cps to about 200,000cps, and the treatment period of the Vicia faba extract being sufficient to improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities.
B. The method of paragraph a, wherein the improvement in appearance corresponds to a positive change in Visual Perception Scale (VPS).
C. The method of paragraph a or B, wherein the improvement in appearance corresponds to a reduction in blood perfusion.
D. The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the improvement in appearance corresponds to an increase in L, a decrease in a, an increase in b, or a combination of these.
E. The method of any one of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the personal care composition is topically applied to the periorbital region.
F. The method of any of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the personal care composition does not worsen the appearance of type I periorbital pigment abnormalities.
G. The method of any one of the preceding paragraphs, further comprising characterizing the type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormality using a method selected from the group consisting of: visual assessment, blood perfusion, image analysis, histological analysis, biomarker analysis, gene expression signature analysis, gene expression topic analysis, and combinations of these.
H. The method of any one of the preceding paragraphs, further comprising consulting a trained beauty consultant or using a diagnostic device to classify type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities.
I. The method of any one of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the personal care composition comprises from about 0.0001% to about 15% fava bean extract.
J. A method of improving the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities, the method comprising:
i. identifying a target portion of skin exhibiting periorbital pigment abnormalities;
applying a first personal care composition to a target portion of skin during a treatment period, wherein the first personal care composition comprises from about 0.0001% to about 15% broad bean extract by weight of the composition, a dermatologically acceptable carrier, and the treatment period of the broad bean extract is sufficient to improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities; and
applying a second personal care composition to the target portion of skin, wherein the second personal care composition comprises a skin care agent and a dermatologically acceptable carrier.
K. The method of paragraph J, wherein the first composition is topically applied to the targeted portion of the skin, and a second composition is typically applied.
L. the method of paragraph J or K, wherein the second composition is administered after the first composition is administered.
The method of any one of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the target portion of the skin exhibits type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities.
The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the extract is present in an amount of from 0.05% to 5%, preferably from 0.1% to 3%, by weight of the composition.
The method of any one of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the improvement in appearance corresponds to a positive change in VPS score.
P. the method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the improvement in appearance corresponds to a reduction in blood perfusion.
The method of any of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the personal care composition does not worsen the appearance of type I periorbital pigment abnormalities.
The method of any one of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the improvement in appearance corresponds to an increase in L, a decrease in a, an increase in b, or a combination of these.
The method of any one of the preceding paragraphs, further comprising classifying type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities using a method selected from the group consisting of: visual assessment, blood perfusion, image analysis, histological analysis, biomarker analysis, gene expression signature analysis, gene expression topic analysis, and combinations of these.
The method of any one of the preceding paragraphs, further comprising consulting a trained beauty counselor or using a diagnostic device to classify type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities.
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Rather, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "about 40 mm".
Each document cited herein, including any cross-referenced or related patent or application, is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with any disclosure or claims herein or that it alone, or in combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any aspect of this invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.

Claims (12)

1. Use of a fava bean extract in the manufacture of a first personal care composition for improving the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities, wherein the first personal care composition comprises an effective amount of the fava bean extract, a dermatologically acceptable carrier, and a viscosity of from 50,000cps to 200,000cps, and wherein the personal care composition is used in a method comprising:
i. identifying a target portion of skin in a periorbital region of a human exhibiting type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities; and
applying the first personal care composition to a target portion of skin during a treatment period,
wherein the treatment period of the broad bean extract is sufficient to improve the appearance of periorbital pigment abnormalities.
2. The use of claim 1, wherein the improvement in appearance corresponds to a positive change in Visual Perception Scale (VPS), a decrease in blood perfusion, an increase in L values, a decrease in a values, b values, or a combination of these.
3. The use of claim 1, wherein the first personal care composition is topically applied to the periorbital region.
4. The use of claim 1, wherein the first personal care composition does not worsen the appearance of type I periorbital pigment abnormalities.
5. The use of claim 1, further comprising characterizing type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities using a method selected from the group consisting of: visual assessment, blood perfusion, image analysis, histological analysis, biomarker analysis, gene expression signature analysis, gene expression topic analysis, and combinations of these.
6. The use of claim 5, further comprising consulting a trained beauty counselor or using a diagnostic device to classify type II or type III periorbital pigment abnormalities.
7. The use of claim 1, wherein the first personal care composition comprises from 0.0001% to 15% by weight of the broad bean extract.
8. The use of claim 1, wherein the first personal care composition comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight of the broad bean extract.
9. The use of claim 1, wherein the first personal care composition comprises from 0.1% to 3% by weight of the broad bean extract.
10. The use of claim 1, the method further comprising applying a second personal care composition to the targeted portion of skin, wherein the second personal care composition comprises a skin care agent and a dermatologically acceptable carrier.
11. The use of claim 10, wherein the first personal care composition is topically applied to a target portion of the skin and a second personal care composition is applied.
12. The use of claim 10 or 11, wherein the second personal care composition is applied after the first personal care composition is applied.
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