CN108951142B - Woolen fabric with cashmere hand feeling and luster and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Woolen fabric with cashmere hand feeling and luster and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN108951142B CN108951142B CN201810665441.1A CN201810665441A CN108951142B CN 108951142 B CN108951142 B CN 108951142B CN 201810665441 A CN201810665441 A CN 201810665441A CN 108951142 B CN108951142 B CN 108951142B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/395—Isocyanates
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
- D06B1/10—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating by contact with a member carrying the treating material
- D06B1/14—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating by contact with a member carrying the treating material with a roller
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/16—Multi-step processes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
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- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a woolen fabric with cashmere hand feeling and luster and a preparation method thereof, wherein the preparation method of the fabric comprises the following steps: chloridizing the woolen fabric by a chlorinating agent; reducing the chloridized woolen fabric by using a reducing agent; carrying out alkali washing on the woolen fabric subjected to reduction treatment; and (3) adding acid to neutralize the alkali-washed woolen fabric, and then carrying out soft wet brushing on a wet brushing machine. The degraded protein in the scale layer of the degraded wool fiber is removed through the sequential actions of the steps of chlorination treatment, reduction cleaning, alkali washing, neutralization, wet brushing and the like, so that the surface of the degraded protein is smooth and flat, and the degraded protein reflects light regularly, thereby showing luster, further enabling the wool to have soft hand feeling and improved luster, simultaneously having the anti-shrinkage performance, and solving the problems of itching feeling, stiffness, roughness and the like, so that the wool has the hand feeling and luster of pure cashmere.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to a woolen fabric with cashmere handfeel and luster and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In recent years, with the continuous promotion of high count yarns and thin fabrics, particularly cool styles, a good foundation is laid for the underwear formation of a woolen sweater and the shirt formation of a woolen sweater. However, one of the problems is that when the number of washing is large, felting shrinkage is extremely liable to occur during repeated washing. The second problem is that the wool has itching, stiffness and roughness, which are exposed when worn close to the body.
Disclosure of Invention
The first object of the present invention is to provide a woolen fabric having a cashmere feel and gloss, which can improve the felting shrinkage during washing and the itchy feeling of the existing woolen fabric.
The second purpose of the invention is to provide a preparation method of woolen fabric with cashmere hand feeling and gloss, so that the woolen fabric with cashmere hand feeling and gloss can be obtained through a simple process.
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme.
The invention provides a preparation method of a woolen fabric with hand feeling and luster of cashmere, which comprises the following steps: chloridizing the woolen fabric by a chlorinating agent; reducing the chloridized woolen fabric by using a reducing agent; carrying out alkali washing on the woolen fabric subjected to reduction treatment; and (3) adding acid to neutralize the alkali-washed woolen fabric, and then carrying out soft wet brushing on a wet brushing machine.
The invention also provides a woolen fabric with cashmere hand feeling and luster, which is prepared by the preparation method of the woolen fabric with cashmere hand feeling and luster.
Scale on the surface of wool fiber is degraded by chlorination treatment to degrade protein into jelly, even viscous liquid, and HOCl and Cl released in chlorination process are reduced and cleaned2Reducing chlorine contained in the fabric, reducing the influence of the chlorine on hand feeling and color, removing degraded protein in a scale layer of the degraded wool fiber through alkali treatment to ensure that the surface of the fabric is smooth and flat, and the fabric shows luster by regularly reflecting light, and finally keeping the fabric in a neutral environment through neutralization to avoid the continuous action of alkali on the fabric. Through the synergistic effect of the whole steps, the wool scales can be removed or the properties of the scales can be improved, and the protein tissues are softened and degraded and are completely removed by denudation. Thereby the wool is soft in hand feeling and improved in gloss, and simultaneously has the anti-shrinkage performance, the itching feeling, the stiffness and the roughnessThe solution is obtained.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention more apparent, the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. Those whose specific conditions are not specified in the embodiment or examples are carried out according to the conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products available commercially.
The woolen fabric with cashmere feeling and luster, the preparation method thereof and the fabric of the embodiment of the invention are specifically explained below.
The existing woolen fabric is obtained by simple woolen spinning, so that the problems that the existing woolen fabric is easy to felte and shrink in the repeated washing process due to the fact that the washing times are multiple, and the existing wool is itchy, stiff and rough and the like are caused. The inventors found that the scales of wool fibers are mostly irregular rings, oblique rings, big tiles, and cracks. The arrangement and distribution are uneven, and the edge is obviously raised. The edges of the annular or inclined annular scales are mutually covered, the two sides of the scale are saw-toothed when observed from the side surface, the large tile-shaped scales are mutually covered in a small area or not covered at all, and the scales are thinner. The problems are caused by the structures based on the wool fibers, so that on the basis, the inventor provides a series of designed treatments for the woolen fabric, so that the woolen fabric has the hand feeling and the style similar to cashmere fabric, the wool resource in China can be utilized, the added value of the wool product can be improved, and the requirement of comfort performance of people in wearing can be met. The specific scheme is as follows:
some embodiments of the present invention provide a method of preparing a woolen fabric having a cashmere feel and gloss, comprising: chloridizing the woolen fabric by a chlorinating agent; reducing the chloridized woolen fabric by a reducing agent; carrying out alkali washing on the woolen fabric subjected to reduction treatment; and (3) adding acid to neutralize the alkali-washed woolen fabric, and then carrying out soft wet brushing on a wet brushing machine.
Specifically, woolen fabrics woven by woolen spinning have an influence on the touch of the wool contacting the human body and the glossiness of the fabric itself due to wool-oil, strength agents, antistatic agents and paraffin wax during the spinning process, etc. during the wool-wool process. Therefore, it is necessary to remove dirt, sweat stains, and the like before the chlorination treatment. Thus, in some embodiments of the invention, stain and perspiration removal is performed by the addition of a leave-on lotion.
In some embodiments of the invention, the treatment process of the woolen fabric is carried out in a piece dyeing machine, the woolen fabric to be treated and water are added into the machine, and the mass ratio of the water to the woolen fabric in the piece dyeing machine is 30-40: 1, preferably 32 to 38: 1, more preferably 26 to 37: 1. and then adding Montelai-2703 non-washing agent, and operating for 8-12 min, wherein the adding amount of the Montelai-2703 non-washing agent is 1.5-2.5% of the mass of the woolen fabric.
The chlorination treatment is to remove scales on the surface of the wool fibers, so that the protein of the scales is degraded into jelly glue or even viscous liquid, the surface morphology of the wool fibers after the chlorination treatment is changed to a certain extent, the edges of most of the scales of the wool become blunt, the end parts of the scales become smooth, and a small part of the scales are dissolved. The scale layer of wool fibers is in the keratinocytes of wool. Cl2And HClO can oxidize all cystine to cysteic acid. In order to control the damage or damage of wool, the reaction must be controlled in the keratinocytes of wool, without damaging or with little damage to the cortex. The reaction process, the reaction conditions and the like need to be controlled, so that a better chlorination effect can be achieved.
According to some embodiments, the chlorination process may be continued in a piece dyeing machine after the fabric is treated with a wash-free agent, and the chlorination of the woolen fabric may specifically include: and (3) placing the woolen fabric into a piece dyeing machine, adding a half chlorinating agent, operating for 8-12 min, and then adding the other half chlorinating agent, operating for 18-22 min. The chlorinating agent is added in two times in steps, so that the chlorinating agent can act on the woolen fabric more fully and softly, the problems that after the chlorinating agent is added in one time, the dissolving performance of the chlorinating agent is poor, the woolen fabric is easy to excessively chloridize due to uneven distribution, and the chlorination degree of different parts is different due to uneven contact between the woolen fabric and the chlorinating agent are avoided. Therefore, the process design of the two-step chlorination and the control of the reaction time enable the best chlorination effect to be achieved.
In the chlorination process, the dosage of the chlorinating agent and the bath ratio of the woolen fabric have great influence on the chlorination process, the dosage of the chlorinating agent is too large, the bath ratio is small, the concentration of the chlorinating agent is too high, over-chlorination is easily caused, the structure of wool fibers is greatly damaged, the mechanical property of the woolen fabric is too poor, the chlorinating agent is easily distributed unevenly, the chlorination degrees at different positions are different, and the performance of the whole woolen fabric is not uniform; and the problem of insufficient chlorination is easily caused by too small dosage of the chlorinating agent or too large bath ratio. Therefore, in some embodiments of the invention, the mass ratio of water to woolen fabric in the piece dyeing machine is 30-40: 1, the dosage of the chlorinating agent is 4-6% of the mass of the woolen fabric. The bath ratio and the usage amount of the chlorinating agent can ensure that the chlorinating agent can be fully dissolved, and the uniform action with the fabric can be better carried out. In addition, the chlorination effect produced by different chlorinating agents is different, and aiming at the scale structure of the wool surface, in some embodiments of the invention, the chlorinating agent is sodium dichloroisocyanurate with the molecular formula of C3O3N3Cl2Na, adopting sodium dichloroisocyanurate as chlorinating agent can have good scale-stripping effect on wool.
At the same time, better control of the response in wool keratinocytes is desired, with little or no damage to the cortex. It is desirable to control the reaction conditions, i.e., to control the reaction rate above the diffusion rate, so that chlorination occurs mostly in a keratinocyte where chlorination is desired. In order to effectively control the reaction, the reaction can be carried out at a low temperature and a low pH value. But in order to avoid the treatment unevenness, the pH value of the treatment bath can be properly increased, the reaction speed is controlled, and the treatment uniformity is ensured. In some embodiments of the present invention, the reaction temperature may be 20-25 ℃ and the pH may be adjusted to 3-4. Dechlorination at high pH contributes to improved shrink proofing and also to improved gloss and whiteness of wool fibres. However, the wool fibers are damaged by the treatment for a long time under the condition of an excessively high pH value, and therefore, the pH value of the treatment needs to be properly controlled during the treatment. In the embodiment of the invention, hypochlorous acid is formed by hydrolysis in the aqueous solution of the wool, effective chlorine with low concentration is released to slowly react with wool, and the hydrolysis reaction rate is accelerated along with the reduction of the pH value and the increase of the temperature.
Specifically, in the chlorination treatment, the pH of the treatment solution is controlled by adding formic acid. The strong acid has stronger dissociation capability than the weak acid, and when the pH value is adjusted to the same value, the dosage of the strong acid is less than that of the weak acid, and the strong acid releases H+Is faster than the weak acid, the weak acid releases H+The time spent on the fabric surface is naturally longer than that of strong acids, which are produced by the slow release of H+To influence the overall reaction system, which naturally affects the hand and the gloss of the fabric. Therefore, some embodiments of the present invention that focus on fabric feel use formic acid to adjust the pH, although other embodiments may use sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, or sodium bisulfate to adjust the pH.
In some embodiments of the invention, when formic acid is added for PH adjustment, half of the measured formic acid (the amount of formic acid is 1.5-2.5% of the woolen fabric) is diluted with water and added. During the test, KI test paper is used for testing, and the test paper shows bluish purple; and observing whether the color becomes white by using KI test paper at intervals, and after 40min, whitening the KI test paper. KI test paper in a wet condition, when encountering a chlorine-containing substance, the test paper changes from colorless to blue. The KI paper turns white to indicate that the chlorination reaction is complete and no available chlorine exists.
In order to uniformly disperse the chlorinating agent, clear water is used for dissolving before the chlorinating agent is used, and the adding of the chlorinating agent is required to be uniformly stirred before the fabric to be treated is added. In addition, in some embodiments, the chlorinating agent can be used together with oxidizing agents such as peracetic acid, persulfuric acid, potassium permanganate and the like, so that the fabric has good hand feeling and color.
In other embodiments, the chlorination process may be performed in another stirring vessel. If a large amount of foam exists in the period, defoaming agent accounting for 1 percent of the mass of the woolen fabric can be added in three times according to the running condition.
According to some embodiments, the amount of the reducing agent is 4-6% of that of the woolen fabric, when the reducing agent is added, half of the reducing agent is added, and after the operation is uniform, the other half of the reducing agent is added. The reduction cleaning is to remove HOCl and Cl released in the chlorination process2And (4) reducing. The fabric can be fully reduced through a special process of two-step reduction, and the structure of the fabric is not easily damaged by over-reduction of the fabric.
The better the reducing performance of the reducing agent, the more thorough the reduction, the less chlorine contained on the fabric, the less the impact on hand and color. Thus, in some embodiments of the invention, the reducing agent is selected from one or more combinations of sodium sulfite, sodium metabisulfite or sodium bisulfite, more preferably the reducing agent is sodium sulfite. After the reducing agent sodium sulfite is adopted, the fabric has the best hand feeling and the minimum color change.
Further, in order to ensure that the effect of the reduction reaches the expected effect, the reaction conditions need to be controlled, and in some embodiments, the temperature for reduction is controlled to be 38-42 ℃, and the reaction time for reduction is 25-35 min.
After chlorination and reduction cleaning, alkali treatment is carried out to remove degraded protein in the scale layer of the denuded wool fiber, and meanwhile, surface scales which are not removed by chlorination treatment are dissolved, so that the surface of the denuded wool fiber is smooth and flat, and the denuded wool fiber shows luster by regularly reflecting light. In addition, the alkali treatment can also play a role in decontamination, impurity removal and dispersion. The effect of the alkali washing depends on the process of the alkali washing, the selection of the alkali and the like.
According to some embodiments, the alkali washing is carried out by adding alkali three times, wherein each time interval is 4-6 min, adding all the alkali, and then carrying out mixing reaction for 25-35 min, wherein the total amount of the alkali is 14-16% of the mass of the woolen fabric. Through the mode of adding alkali in the three steps and the using amount of the alkali, the whole alkali washing effect can achieve a good effect. In some embodiments, the base may be selected from basic salts, and further, the base may be selected from one or more combinations of sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium phosphate, or sodium bicarbonate. Different basic salts have influence on the hand feeling and the color of wool fabrics, and the main influence factor depends on the decontamination, impurity removal and dispersion capacities of the basic salts and the pH value of the aqueous solution of the basic salts. The soda ash is preferred in combination with the factors of safety, environmental protection, economy and the like.
The main effect of neutralization is to adjust the pH value to keep the pH value in a neutral environment, the acid added in the neutralization is glacial acetic acid, the dosage of the glacial acetic acid is 2.5-3.5% of the mass of the woolen fabric, preferably, after the neutralization by adding the acid, the woolen fabric is washed twice by clean water and is dehydrated and dried. The weak acid such as glacial acetic acid is used for the purpose of preventing easy control and easy over-regulation when the strong acid is used for regulation.
Furthermore, the chloridized, reduced and neutralized woolen fabric also needs to be combined with a soft wet brushing process to act on the surface of the fiber, so that the lubricating property of the fiber is enhanced, the friction coefficient of the surface fiber is reduced, and the hand feeling is improved. In some embodiments, the temperature of the water for performing the soft wet brushing is 34-36 ℃, and the water for performing the soft wet brushing is added with the soft and smooth finishing agent. Further, in some embodiments, the soft and smooth finishing agent comprises a softening agent and a high-efficiency smoothing agent, and more preferably, the ratio of the softening agent to the high-efficiency smoothing agent is 1-2: 1, further preferably, the dosage of the soft and smooth finishing agent is 0.7-0.9 g/L of the single-layer woolen cloth. Through the setting of the wet brushing process conditions, the smooth finishing agent can well optimize the fiber surface and improve the hand feeling of the fiber surface.
Further, in some embodiments, when soft wet brushing is performed, the wet brushing machine is reversely pulled on the hair, the height of the brush roll is 13-15 mm, the pressure of the output roll is 4.4-4.6 bar, the input roll does not apply pressure, the cloth speed is 9-11 m/min, and the tension is 1.4-1.6 bar.
Further, some embodiments of the present invention further include shaping, tentering, drying, raising the steel wire twice, and then performing the steps of polishing, shearing, steaming and brushing, and steaming. And the steel wire is fuzzed by adopting a double cylinder. When in ironing, the fabric is put on the vehicle by reversing the hair, the temperature of the ironing rod is controlled between 180 ℃ and 200 ℃, and the cloth speed is 12 m/min. Shearing mainly cuts off uneven long fluff, so that the regularity of the fluff is kept as consistent as possible. When in decating, the woolen cloth is put on a loom with the front side upward, deflated for 15min and cooled for 10 min. Through the post-treatment process, the surface performance of the woolen fabric is further improved.
Some embodiments of the present invention also provide a woolen fabric having a hand feeling and a gloss of cashmere, which is prepared by the method for preparing the woolen fabric having the hand feeling and the gloss of cashmere according to any of the above embodiments.
The features and properties of the present invention are described in further detail below with reference to examples.
Example 1
Firstly, adding woolen fabric and water to be treated into a piece dyeing machine, wherein the mass ratio of the water to the woolen fabric in the piece dyeing machine is 30: 1. and then adding Montelai-2703 non-washing agent, and operating for 8-12 min, wherein the adding amount of the Montelai-2703 non-washing agent is 1.5% of the mass of the woolen fabric.
And secondly, adding a half chlorinating agent into the piece dyeing machine for running for 8min, and then adding the other half chlorinating agent for running for 18 min. The dosage of the chlorinating agent is 4% of the mass of the woolen fabric, and the chlorinating agent is sodium dichloroisocyanurate. The reaction temperature is controlled to be 20 ℃ in the reaction process, and formic acid is added to adjust the pH value to 3 before the chlorinating agent is added.
And step three, weighing a reducing agent accounting for 4% of the mass of the woolen fabric, dissolving the reducing agent in water, adding half of the reducing agent, uniformly running, adding the other half of the reducing agent, raising the temperature to 38 ℃, and running for 25 min. Wherein the reducing agent is sodium sulfite.
And fourthly, weighing alkali which accounts for 14% of the mass of the woolen fabric, dissolving the alkali by using water, adding the alkali into a piece dyeing machine in an equivalent manner for three times, separating for 4min each time, operating for 25min, and then putting clear water for cleaning for three times. Wherein the alkali is sodium carbonate.
Fifthly, glacial acetic acid accounting for 2.5 percent of the mass of the woolen fabric is weighed, diluted by water and slowly added, and p is measured
. H value is between 4, and operation is carried out for 15 min. Then, the mixture is washed twice by clean water, dehydrated and dried.
And sixthly, filling water into a water tank of the wet brushing machine, raising the water temperature to 34 ℃, and performing wet brushing according to the ratio of 1: the softening agent and the high-efficiency smoothing agent are taken according to the proportion of 1 to prepare the soft and smooth finishing agent, and the dosage of the single-layer woolen cloth is 0.7 g/L. 1 part of the soft and smooth finishing agent and 3 parts of alcohol are mixed well and stirred evenly, and then poured into a water tank, the finishing liquid in the water tank is stirred evenly and fully, and floaters on the water surface are fished out before and during operation. The bristles are reversely loaded, the height of the brush roller is equivalent to 13mm, 15mm and 13mm, the pressure of the output roller is 4.4bar, the input roller does not apply pressure, the cloth speed is 9m/min, and the tension is 1.4 bar.
And seventhly, shaping, tentering and drying the soft and wet brushed woolen fabric, fluffing the steel wires twice, and sequentially performing ironing, shearing, steaming and brushing and decating to obtain the woolen fabric with cashmere handfeel and luster. Wherein, when in ironing, the user can put the hair on the vehicle, the temperature of the ironing stick is controlled between 180 ℃, and the cloth speed is 12 m/min. When in decating, the woolen cloth is put on a loom with the front side upward, deflated for 15min and cooled for 10 min.
Example 2
Firstly, adding woolen fabric and water to be treated into a piece dyeing machine, wherein the mass ratio of the water to the woolen fabric in the piece dyeing machine is 40: 1. and then adding Montelai-2703 non-washing agent, and operating for 12min, wherein the adding amount of the Montelai-2703 non-washing agent is 2.5 percent of the mass of the woolen fabric.
And secondly, adding a half chlorinating agent into the piece dyeing machine for operation for 12min, and then adding the other half chlorinating agent for operation for 22 min. The dosage of the chlorinating agent is 6% of the mass of the woolen fabric, and the chlorinating agent is sodium dichloroisocyanurate. The reaction temperature is controlled to be 25 ℃ in the reaction process, and formic acid is added to adjust the pH value to 4 before the chlorinating agent is added.
And step three, weighing a reducing agent which accounts for 6% of the mass of the woolen fabric, dissolving the reducing agent in water, adding half of the reducing agent, uniformly running, adding the other half of the reducing agent, raising the temperature to 42 ℃, and running for 35 min. Wherein the reducing agent is sodium sulfite.
And fourthly, weighing 16% alkali of the mass of the woolen fabric, dissolving the alkali with water, adding the alkali into a piece dyeing machine in an equal amount for three times, wherein the interval is 6min each time, then running for 35min, and then putting clean water to clean for three times. Wherein the alkali is sodium tripolyphosphate.
And fifthly, weighing glacial acetic acid accounting for 3.5% of the mass of the woolen fabric, diluting with water, slowly adding the glacial acetic acid, measuring the pH value between 5, and operating for 25 min. Then, the mixture is washed twice by clean water, dehydrated and dried.
And sixthly, filling water into a water tank of the wet brushing machine, raising the water temperature to 36 ℃, and performing wet brushing according to the ratio of 2: the softening agent and the high-efficiency smoothing agent are taken according to the proportion of 1 to prepare the soft and smooth finishing agent, and the dosage of the single-layer woolen cloth is 0.9 g/L. 1 part of the soft and smooth finishing agent and 3 parts of alcohol are mixed well and stirred evenly, and then poured into a water tank, the finishing liquid in the water tank is stirred evenly and fully, and floaters on the water surface are fished out before and during operation. The bristles are reversely loaded, the height of the brush roller is equivalent to 13mm, 15mm and 13mm, the pressure of the output roller is 4.6bar, the input roller does not apply pressure, the cloth speed is 11m/min, and the tension is 1.6 bar.
And seventhly, shaping, tentering and drying the soft and wet brushed woolen fabric, fluffing the steel wires twice, and sequentially performing ironing, shearing, steaming and brushing and decating to obtain the woolen fabric with cashmere handfeel and luster. Wherein, when in ironing, the hair is turned upside down and the ironing rod is controlled at a temperature of 200 ℃ and the cloth speed is 12 m/min. When in decating, the woolen cloth is put on a loom with the front side upward, deflated for 15min and cooled for 10 min.
Example 3
Firstly, adding woolen fabric and water to be treated into a piece dyeing machine, wherein the mass ratio of the water to the woolen fabric in the piece dyeing machine is 38: 1. and then adding Montelai-2703 non-washing agent, and operating for 9min, wherein the adding amount of the Montelai-2703 non-washing agent is 2% of the mass of the woolen fabric.
And secondly, adding a half chlorinating agent into the piece dyeing machine for operation for 9min, and then adding the other half chlorinating agent for operation for 19 min. The dosage of the chlorinating agent is 5% of the mass of the woolen fabric, and the chlorinating agent is sodium dichloroisocyanurate. The reaction temperature is controlled to be 23 ℃ in the reaction process, and formic acid is added to adjust the pH value to 3 before the chlorinating agent is added.
And thirdly, weighing a reducing agent accounting for 4-6% of the mass of the woolen fabric, dissolving the reducing agent with water, adding half of the reducing agent, uniformly running, adding the other half of the reducing agent, raising the temperature to 39 ℃, and running for 28 min. Wherein the reducing agent is sodium sulfite.
And fourthly, weighing alkali which accounts for 15% of the mass of the woolen fabric, dissolving the alkali by water, adding the alkali into a piece dyeing machine in an equivalent manner for three times, wherein the interval is 5min each time, then operating for 28min, and then putting clear water for cleaning for three times. Wherein the alkali is one or more of sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium phosphate or sodium bicarbonate.
And fifthly, weighing glacial acetic acid accounting for 3% of the mass of the woolen fabric, diluting with water, slowly adding the glacial acetic acid, and operating for 18 min. Then, the mixture is washed twice by clean water, dehydrated and dried.
And sixthly, filling water into a water tank of the wet brushing machine, raising the water temperature to 35 ℃, and performing wet brushing according to the ratio of 1: the softening agent and the high-efficiency smoothing agent are taken according to the proportion of 1 to prepare the soft and smooth finishing agent, and the dosage of the single-layer woolen cloth is 0.8 g/L. 1 part of the soft and smooth finishing agent and 3 parts of alcohol are mixed well and stirred evenly, and then poured into a water tank, the finishing liquid in the water tank is stirred evenly and fully, and floaters on the water surface are fished out before and during operation. The bristles are reversely loaded, the height of the brush roller is equivalent to 13mm, 15mm and 13mm, the pressure of the output roller is 4.5bar, the input roller does not apply pressure, the cloth speed is 10m/min, and the tension is 1.5 bar.
And seventhly, shaping, tentering and drying the soft and wet brushed woolen fabric, fluffing the steel wires twice, and sequentially performing ironing, shearing, steaming and brushing and decating to obtain the woolen fabric with cashmere handfeel and luster. Wherein, when in ironing, the user can put the vehicle on the reverse side of the hair, the temperature of the ironing stick is controlled between 190 ℃, and the cloth speed is 12 m/min. When in decating, the woolen cloth is put on a loom with the front side upward, deflated for 15min and cooled for 10 min.
Example 4
Firstly, adding woolen fabric and water to be treated into a piece dyeing machine, wherein the mass ratio of the water to the woolen fabric in the piece dyeing machine is 35: 1. and then adding Montelai-2703 non-washing agent, and operating for 10min, wherein the adding amount of the Montelai-2703 non-washing agent is 2% of the mass of the woolen fabric.
And secondly, adding a half chlorinating agent into the piece dyeing machine for operation for 10min, and then adding the other half chlorinating agent for operation for 10 min. The dosage of the chlorinating agent is 5% of the mass of the woolen fabric, and the chlorinating agent is sodium dichloroisocyanurate. The reaction temperature is controlled to be 25 ℃ in the reaction process, and formic acid is added to adjust the pH value to 3.5 before the chlorinating agent is added.
And step three, weighing a reducing agent accounting for 5% of the mass of the woolen fabric, dissolving the reducing agent in water, adding half of the reducing agent, uniformly running, adding the other half of the reducing agent, raising the temperature to 40 ℃, and running for 30 min. Wherein the reducing agent is sodium sulfite.
And fourthly, weighing alkali which accounts for 15% of the mass of the woolen fabric, dissolving the alkali by water, adding the alkali into a piece dyeing machine in an equivalent manner for three times, separating for 5min each time, operating for 30min, and then putting clear water for cleaning for three times. Wherein the alkali is one or more of sodium carbonate.
And fifthly, weighing glacial acetic acid accounting for 3% of the mass of the woolen fabric, diluting with water, slowly adding the glacial acetic acid, measuring the pH value between 4 and 5, and operating for 20 min. Then, the mixture is washed twice by clean water, dehydrated and dried.
And sixthly, filling water into a water tank of the wet brushing machine, raising the water temperature to 35 ℃, and performing wet brushing according to the ratio of 1: the softening agent and the high-efficiency smoothing agent are taken according to the proportion of 1 to prepare the soft and smooth finishing agent, and the dosage of the single-layer woolen cloth is 0.8 g/L. 1 part of the soft and smooth finishing agent and 3 parts of alcohol are mixed well and stirred evenly, and then poured into a water tank, the finishing liquid in the water tank is stirred evenly and fully, and floaters on the water surface are fished out before and during operation. The bristles are reversely loaded, the height of the brush roller is equivalent to 13mm, 15mm and 13mm, the pressure of the output roller is 4.5bar, the input roller does not apply pressure, the cloth speed is 10m/min, and the tension is 1.5 bar.
And seventhly, shaping, tentering and drying the soft and wet brushed woolen fabric, fluffing the steel wires twice, and sequentially performing ironing, shearing, steaming and brushing and decating to obtain the woolen fabric with cashmere handfeel and luster. Wherein, when in ironing, the user can put the vehicle on the reverse side of the hair, the temperature of the ironing stick is controlled between 190 ℃, and the cloth speed is 12 m/min. When in decating, the woolen cloth is put on a loom with the front side upward, deflated for 15min and cooled for 10 min.
Example 5
This example differs from example 4 only in that the seventh step is not performed.
Example 6
This example differs from example 4 only in that the second step was carried out without carrying out the first step.
Example 7
This example differs from example 4 only in that the chlorinating agent is sodium hypochlorite.
Example 8
This example differs from example 4 only in that the chlorinating agent was added in one portion and run for 20 min.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example differs from example 4 only in that the reduction washing of the third step was not performed.
Comparative example 2
This comparative example differs from example 4 only in that the alkaline washing of the fourth step was not carried out.
Comparative example 3
This comparative example differs from example 4 only in that neutralization by acid in the fifth step was not carried out.
Test examples
The woolen fabrics in examples 4-8 and comparative examples 1-3 were randomly investigated in Beijing, Shanghai for 100 persons, wherein 30% of the fabric in the age range of 18-25 years, 30% of the fabric in the age range of 26-40 years, 20% of the fabric in the age range of 41-60 years, and 20% of the fabric in the age range of 61-80 years were observed by each evaluator on the touch feeling and the glossiness, the corresponding scores of the touch feeling and the glossiness were 0-100 points, and finally the average score of 100 persons was taken. After the woolen fabrics in examples 4 to 8 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were washed with water for 5 times, the shrinkage resistance was examined, and the shrinkage rate was calculated from the change in the volume before and after the washing. The test results are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
| Test group | Hand feeling | Degree of gloss | Shrinkage rate |
| Example 4 | 91.3 | 90 | 98.1％ |
| Example 5 | 85.7 | 84.5 | 97.3％ |
| Example 6 | 84.2 | 83.5 | 96.8％ |
| Example 7 | 83.2 | 81.4 | 91.5％ |
| Example 8 | 82.3 | 80.8 | 88.5％ |
| Comparative example 1 | 79.6 | 78.2 | 88.3％ |
| Comparative example 2 | 78.1 | 79.3 | 86.9％ |
| Comparative example 3 | 83.5 | 84.3 | 92.1％ |
As can be seen from the results in table 1, the woolen fabric obtained in the embodiment of the present invention has good hand feeling and glossiness, and is also good in shrinkage resistance. As can be seen from the comparison between example 4 and example 5, in the seventh step, the steps of raising the steel wire, ironing, shearing, steaming, and decating can significantly improve the performance of the woolen fabric. Comparing example 4 with example 6, it can be seen that the washing-free agent in the first step is beneficial to subsequent reaction, so that the reaction effect is improved, and the fabric performance is improved. Comparing example 4 to example 7, the choice of chlorinating agent will also contribute to some degree to the performance of the woolen face fabric. Comparing example 4 with example 8, it can be seen that the chlorination by adding the chlorinating agent step by step is more beneficial to the improvement of the reaction effect.
Further, by comparing example 4 with comparative examples 1 to 3, it can be seen that the reduction, alkali wash and neutralization steps all have a great influence on the hand, gloss and anti-shrinkage properties of the woolen fabric.
In conclusion, scales on the surface of wool fibers are degraded through chlorination treatment to degrade proteins into jelly glue or even viscous liquid, and HOCl and Cl released in the chlorination process are reduced and cleaned2Reducing chlorine contained in the fabric, reducing the influence of the chlorine on hand feeling and color, removing degraded protein in a scale layer of the degraded wool fiber through alkali treatment to ensure that the surface of the fabric is smooth and flat, and the fabric shows luster by regularly reflecting light, and finally keeping the fabric in a neutral environment through neutralization to avoid the continuous action of alkali on the fabric. Through the synergistic effect of the whole steps, the wool scales can be removed or the properties of the scales can be improved, and the protein tissues are softened and degraded and are completely removed by denudation. Thereby the wool has soft hand feeling, improved luster, anti-shrinkage performance, itching feeling, stiffness, roughness and other problems. In addition, the embodiment of the invention is directed to a processing method for directly improving the hand feeling and the gloss of a woolen fabric, compared with other processing methods for finishing the woolen fabric, the processing method is a fine imitation fabric, two procedures of fluffing and shearing are not needed, the processing method is directly started from raw materials or spun yarns, and the subsequent finishing is simpler.
The embodiments described above are some, but not all embodiments of the invention. The detailed description of the embodiments of the present invention is not intended to limit the scope of the invention as claimed, but is merely representative of selected embodiments of the invention. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (16)
1. A preparation method of a woolen fabric with cashmere hand feeling and luster is characterized by comprising the following steps:
chloridizing the woolen fabric by a chlorinating agent;
reducing the chloridized woolen fabric by using a reducing agent;
carrying out alkali washing on the woolen fabric subjected to reduction treatment;
adding acid into the alkali-washed woolen fabric for neutralization, and then carrying out soft wet brushing on a wet brushing machine;
the chlorination treatment of the woolen fabric specifically comprises the following steps: placing the woolen fabric into a piece dyeing machine, adding half of the chlorinating agent, and operating for 8-12 min, and then adding the other half of the chlorinating agent, and operating for 18-22 min;
the mass ratio of the water in the piece dyeing machine to the woolen fabric is 30-40: 1;
the dosage of the chlorinating agent is 4-6% of the mass of the woolen fabric;
the chlorinating agent is sodium dichloroisocyanurate;
and the alkali washing is carried out by adding alkali for three times at intervals of 4-6 min every time, adding all the alkali, and then carrying out mixed reaction for 25-35 min, wherein the total amount of the alkali is 14-16% of the mass of the woolen fabric.
2. The method for preparing woolen fabric with cashmere feeling and luster according to claim 1, wherein formic acid is added during chlorination to control the pH value to 3-4 and the reaction temperature to 20-25 ℃.
3. The preparation method of the woolen fabric with the cashmere feeling and the gloss according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the reducing agent is 4-6% of the mass of the woolen fabric, when the reducing agent is added, half of the reducing agent is added, and after the operation is uniform, the other half of the reducing agent is added.
4. The preparation method of the woolen fabric with the hand feeling and the luster of the cashmere according to claim 3, wherein the temperature for reduction is controlled to be 38-42 ℃, and the reaction time for reduction is 25-35 min.
5. The method for preparing woolen fabric with cashmere feeling and luster according to claim 3, wherein the reducing agent is selected from one or more of sodium sulfite, sodium pyrosulfite and sodium bisulfite.
6. The method for preparing woolen fabric with cashmere feeling and luster according to claim 5, wherein the reducing agent is sodium sulfite.
7. The method for preparing woolen fabric with cashmere feeling and luster according to claim 1, wherein the alkali is one or more selected from sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium phosphate and sodium bicarbonate.
8. The preparation method of the woolen fabric with the cashmere feeling and the gloss according to claim 1, wherein the acid added for neutralization is glacial acetic acid, and the dosage of the glacial acetic acid is 2.5-3.5% of the mass of the woolen fabric.
9. The method for preparing woolen fabric with hand feeling and luster of cashmere according to claim 8, wherein the woolen fabric is neutralized by adding acid, washed twice by clean water, dewatered and dried.
10. The preparation method of the woolen fabric according to claim 1, wherein the temperature of the water subjected to the soft wet brushing is 34-36 ℃, and a smooth finishing agent is added to the water subjected to the wet brushing.
11. The method of making a woolen fabric of claim 10, wherein the slip finish comprises a softener and a high efficiency smoothing agent.
12. The preparation method of the woolen fabric according to claim 11, wherein the ratio of the softening agent to the high-efficiency smoothing agent is 1-2: 1.
13. the preparation method of the woolen fabric according to claim 11, wherein the amount of the smooth finishing agent is 0.7-0.9 g/L of the single layer woolen fabric.
14. The preparation method of the woolen fabric with the hand feeling and the luster of the cashmere according to claim 2 is characterized in that when soft wet brushing is carried out, reverse wool is carried out, the height of a brush roll is 13-15 mm, the pressure of an output roll is 4.4-4.6 bar, no pressure is applied to an input roll, the cloth speed is 9-11 m/min, and the tension is 1.4-1.6 bar.
15. The method for preparing woolen fabric with cashmere feeling and gloss according to claim 2, further comprising shaping, tentering, drying, raising the steel wire twice, and then performing iron finishing, shearing, steaming brushing and steaming woolen in sequence.
16. A woolen fabric with cashmere hand feeling and luster, which is characterized by being prepared by the preparation method of any one of claims 1-15.
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| CN101649542A (en) * | 2009-09-16 | 2010-02-17 | 江苏阳光股份有限公司 | Production method of fancy twister woolen by washing and color stripping |
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