CN108888570B

CN108888570B - Mild emulsifier with good salt tolerance

Info

Publication number: CN108888570B
Application number: CN201810855573.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 王晗宁; 蒋丽刚; 毕永贤; 黄洁芳; 王丽娜; 刘红艳
Original assignee: Proya Cosmetics Co Ltd
Current assignee: Proya Cosmetics Co Ltd
Priority date: 2018-07-31
Filing date: 2018-07-31
Publication date: 2021-01-08
Anticipated expiration: 2038-07-31
Also published as: CN108888570A

Abstract

The invention relates to a mild emulsifier with good salt resistance, which is characterized in that: the paint consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 30-70% of diisopropyl sebacate, 25-65% of wetting agent, 1-5% of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and 1-5% of rice chaff extract. The invention has the advantages of good salt resistance, mildness, no skin irritation and the like.

Description

Mild emulsifier with good salt tolerance

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of emulsifiers for cosmetics, in particular to a mild emulsifier with good salt resistance.

Background

In recent years, people have increasingly demanded higher efficacy of cosmetics, and consumers want cosmetics to provide practically remarkable efficacy. In order to achieve better effects, the addition amount of active ingredients in the cosmetics needs to be increased, most of the active ingredients are strong in ionic property, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate for whitening, sodium hyaluronate for moisturizing and the like, which are strong ionic ingredients, but most of the current emulsifiers have low tolerance to salt, and the high addition amount of the active ingredients can cause unstable phenomena such as water-oil separation and the like of emulsified products.

In addition, most of the currently available emulsifiers belong to surfactants in terms of chemical structures, and after the emulsifiers are applied to skin, natural oil and fat of the skin are usually emulsified due to high HLB, sebum in the skin can be taken away after cleaning, and the sebum is frequently used repeatedly, so that a sebum membrane can be damaged, the skin is easily subjected to red swelling, dehydration, skin inflammation, allergy and the like, and the sensitivity of the skin is further increased.

At present, the emulsifier which is not in a surfactant structure but has an emulsifying function generally refers to a polymer emulsifier, such as CARBOPOL TR-1, TR-2 of Luborun company, which achieves an emulsifying effect through a steric hindrance effect, but the polymers are extremely salt-resistant, the salt content generally cannot exceed 0.3 percent (mass ratio), otherwise the polymers cannot be fully stretched to lose the emulsifying effect.

The other is pickering emulsion, which is stable emulsion formed by adsorbing solid particles such as zein or bentonite powder to a two-phase interface, and has high salt resistance. However, because zein and bentonite are coarse solid powder, the formed pickering emulsion has a harsh skin feel when being applied to the skin, and the solid powder is easy to rub out, and is generally called easy to mud in the cosmetic industry; furthermore, the interfacial film of pickering emulsions is not strong and generally cannot pass the environmental stability requirements of-10 ℃ to 50 ℃ that are generally required by the cosmetic industry, and therefore pickering emulsions are not practical and hardly adopted in the cosmetic industry.

Therefore, the emulsifier with good salt resistance, mild property, low stimulation and good use feeling of the final product is developed, and has wide application prospect in the cosmetic industry.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing an emulsifier which has the advantages of good salt resistance, mildness, no skin irritation and the like.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides a mild emulsifier with good salt resistance, which is characterized in that: the composite material consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 30-70% of diisopropyl sebacate, 25-65% of wetting agent, 1-5% of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and 1-5% of rice chaff extract.

The wetting agent is one of or a mixture of butanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate, butanediol behenate, butanediol cocoate, propylene glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dinonoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, propylene glycol citrate, propylene glycol myristate, propylene glycol caprylate, propylene glycol cocoate, propylene glycol isostearate, propylene glycol oleate and propylene glycol carbonate.

HYDROXYPROPYL methyl cellulose stearyl ETHER (HYDROXYPROPYL methyl cellulose stearate ETHER) is a hydrophobic derivative of HYDROXYPROPYL methyl cellulose, and is numbered 05230 in the catalogue of used cosmetic raw materials (2015) in China, and is commercially available as Sangelose 60L, Sangelose 90L from DAIDO Chemical Corporation, Japan. The hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether has the amphiphilic thickening gel characteristic, has the gel effect on oil and water, and can simultaneously thicken an oil internal phase and a water external phase, thereby realizing the emulsification stabilizing effect of oil drops in the emulsion.

The RICE chaff EXTRACT (oryzae SATIVA (RICE) BRAN EXTRACT) of the invention has a serial number of 01874 in catalog of used cosmetic raw materials (2015 edition) in China, and the commercial product is OZ-300U of OZEKI corporation, is rich in beta-glucan, chitin, yeast mannoprotein and the like, and the beta-glucan, the chitin, the yeast mannoprotein and the like are constituent substances of cell membranes, wherein the yeast mannoprotein is a macromolecular natural product and can be adsorbed on an oil-water interface of oil drops thickened by hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether, so that the oil drops are further prevented from colliding with each other to form large oil drops to cause separation, and the emulsion stabilizing effect is achieved.

The invention utilizes the emulsion stabilizing effect of yeast mannoprotein in the rice chaff extract and the amphiphilic thickening gel characteristic of the cellulose hydrophobic modifier to realize the emulsification stabilizing effect on different oils. The emulsifier does not contain the traditional high HLB surfactant, has low irritation, mainly utilizes the steric hindrance effect between oil drops and a water phase in the emulsion to emulsify different types of grease, has good stabilizing effect and wide application range, and the prepared emulsion has strong tolerance to electrolytes.

In order to test the emulsifying capacity, irritation and salt tolerance of the present invention, the following experiments were performed.

1. Emulsion stability test

The mild emulsifier prepared in example 1 was selected as emulsifier A, and the specific compositions of the remaining groups B-E are shown in Table 1.

TABLE 1 emulsifier Components Table

Emulsions were prepared according to the formulation of table 2 and the emulsifying capacity of the above emulsifiers was examined for white flowered seed oil, ethylhexyl palmitate, mineral oil.

TABLE 2 emulsion formulation table

Heating and mixing the phase A uniformly, adding the phase B which is dispersed uniformly and preheated to the same temperature, stirring and homogenizing, cooling, adding the phase C, stirring uniformly to obtain an emulsion, placing the emulsion in an oven at 38 ℃ for 1 hour, centrifuging at 3000rpm for 30min, observing the state of the emulsion, and testing results are shown in Table 3.

TABLE 3 emulsifying Capacity test results

From the table, diisopropyl sebacate and wetting agent have almost no emulsifying capacity, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and rice chaff extract are not matched, the emulsifying capacity of the diisopropyl sebacate and the wetting agent is not as good as that of the mild emulsifier provided by the invention, the emulsifier has better emulsifying stability for polar, nonpolar and vegetable oil, and 1 part of the mild emulsifier with good salt tolerance can be used for emulsifying and stabilizing not less than 6 parts of oil.

2. Electrolyte resistance test

Taking the mild emulsifier prepared in example 1 as an emulsifier, respectively emulsifying the white Poissa seed oil, the ethylhexyl palmitate and the mineral oil to prepare stable emulsions with 12% (mass ratio) of oil content, dividing the stable emulsions into 15 groups, and respectively adding 1.5% of sodium chloride, 3.0% of sodium chloride, 4.5% of sodium chloride and 2% of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate to test the electrolyte tolerance, wherein the specific test results are shown in Table 4.

Table 4 emulsifier electrolyte resistance test results

As can be seen from Table 4, the emulsion prepared with the mild emulsifier provided by the present invention can tolerate not less than 3.0% (mass ratio) of electrolyte and is not limited by grease; when 2% of vitamin C magnesium phosphate is added, the viscosity of the emulsion is not changed greatly, and the emulsion is still stable and does not change color after 4-week high-temperature stability experiments, which shows that the system also has the function of protecting vitamin C derivative vitamin C magnesium phosphate.

3. Irritation test

32 volunteers of 18-60 years old were selected and subjected to irritation test according to the technical Specification for cosmetic safety 2015 edition-human skin Patch test.

Taking the mild emulsifier prepared in example 1 as an emulsifier, respectively emulsifying the meadowfoam seed oil, the ethylhexyl palmitate and the mineral oil to prepare stable emulsions with the oil content of 12% (mass ratio), respectively taking the stable emulsions as a sample A, B, C to be added into a spot tester, then applying the spot tester with the sample on the back of a subject by using a non-irritating adhesive tape, and lightly pressing the stable emulsions with palms to uniformly apply the stable emulsions on the skin for 24 hours; removing the spot of the test object, slightly wiping the test object residue on the test part with a wet absorbent cotton ball, and observing the skin reaction after the indentation disappears after 30 min. If the result is negative, the patch is observed again 24h after being removed. The results were recorded according to the grading scale and the results are shown in Table 5.

TABLE 5 irritation test results

Sample a is chinlon oil emulsion, sample B is ethylhexyl palmitate emulsion, and sample C is mineral oil emulsion.

As can be seen from the table above, the emulsion prepared by the mild emulsifier provided by the invention has no adverse reaction to human skin, and has the characteristics of being mild and non-irritant.

In conclusion, the mild emulsifier provided by the invention has an emulsification stabilizing effect, 1 part of the emulsifier can emulsify and stabilize more than 6 parts (mass ratio) of oil and fat without being limited by the type of the oil and fat, the prepared emulsion can tolerate not less than 3.0% (mass ratio) of electrolyte, and simultaneously has the effect of protecting vitamin C derivative vitamin C phosphate magnesium, has no adverse reaction on human skin, and is mild and non-irritant.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below.

Example 1:

a mild emulsifier with high salt tolerance and a preparation method thereof are characterized in that: the following steps are adopted for the preparation of the anti-cancer medicine,

weighing the raw materials, namely 60% of diisopropyl sebacate, 33% of butanediol cocoate, 4% of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and 3% of rice chaff extract according to the mass ratio, heating and dissolving at 90-95 ℃ until the mixture is clear and transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the rice chaff extract.

Example 2:

weighing the following raw materials, namely 30% of diisopropyl sebacate, 62% of propylene glycol cocoate, 5% of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and 3% of rice chaff extract according to the mass ratio, heating and dissolving at 90-95 ℃ until the mixture is clear and transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the rice chaff food.

Example 3:

weighing the raw materials, namely 70% of diisopropyl sebacate, 26% of propylene glycol didecanoate, 3% of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and 1% of rice chaff extract according to the mass ratio, heating and dissolving at 90-95 ℃ until the mixture is clear and transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the rice chaff extract.

Example 4:

weighing the raw materials, namely 50% of diisopropyl sebacate, 25% of butanediol dicaprylate, 20% of propylene glycol dicaprate, 1% of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and 4% of rice chaff extract according to the mass ratio, heating and dissolving at 90-95 ℃ until the mixture is clear and transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the rice chaff extract.

Example 5:

weighing raw materials according to the following mass ratio, 65% of diisopropyl sebacate, 10% of propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, 18% of propylene glycol isostearate, 2% of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and 5% of rice chaff extract, heating and dissolving at 90-95 ℃ until the mixture is clear and transparent, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the rice chaff extract.

The previous description of the disclosed embodiments is provided to enable any person skilled in the art to make or use the present invention. Various modifications to these embodiments will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the generic principles defined herein may be applied to other embodiments without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, the present invention is not intended to be limited to the embodiments shown herein but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and novel features disclosed herein.

Claims

1. A mild emulsifier with good salt tolerance is characterized in that: the paint consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 30-70% of diisopropyl sebacate, 25-65% of butanediol cocoate, 1-5% of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether and 1-5% of rice chaff extract.