CN108785182B - 采用沙棘色素制备的一种天然染发剂及其染发方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种采用沙棘黄色素制备的天然染发剂，所述天然染发剂包括A剂、B剂与C剂。A剂包含有机酸、增稠剂、碱和溶剂；B剂包含色素、溶剂、保湿剂和增稠剂；C剂包含pH调节剂、金属盐、防腐剂、溶剂。B剂中所用色素来源于沙棘，采用乙醇溶液提取所得沙棘黄色素作为染发剂主成分。
Description
技术领域
本发明公开了一种天然植物染发剂，以沙棘黄色素为主要成分，属于化妆品领域。
背景技术
染发化妆品具有改变头发颜色的作用，俗称染发剂。改革开放以来，受国际流行发色的影响，我国也相继推出了各种色调的染发剂，使我国的染发品市场大放异彩。市场上常用的染发剂多为氧化型染发剂，它不含有一般所说的染料，而是含有染料中间体和偶合剂，这种染料中间体和偶合剂渗透进入头发的皮质后，发生氧化反应、偶合和缩合反应形成较大的染料分子，被封闭在头发纤维中。多项研究证实这种氧化型染发剂对头发有一定的损害，毒性大，容易引发皮肤过敏，长期使用可导致中毒，并诱发各种癌症。而染发剂之所以会导致皮肤过敏、白血病等多种疾病，原因之一是因为染发剂中含有对苯二胺这种化学物质。专家称，对苯二胺是染发剂中必须用到的一种着色剂，是国际公认的一种致癌物质。随着人们健康意识的逐步提高和美容科学的不断进步，天然植物色素染发剂日益成为未来染发剂市场的发展趋势。但是，现有植物染发剂存在的问题是可染出的头发颜色较少，不能满足人们的个性化需求，因此各种植物染发剂相继出现。
沙棘,别名醋柳、沙枣，属于胡颓子科沙棘属，是一种落叶灌木，耐旱、抗风沙，有极强的保持水土、改善生态环境的功能。沙棘原产我国及欧洲，主要分布于温带、寒温带及亚热带高山区，在我国主要分布在西北、华北、东北及西南等十多个省区。沙棘的栽培历史较短，只有近百年的历史。我国的沙棘栽植始于五十年代，主要作为防护林栽植，作为果树栽植从九十年代才开始。目前全国有沙棘人工林200万公顷以上，绝大多数为中国野生沙棘。近年来，我国引进了大果沙棘等新品种，其人工栽培资源面积在新疆、内蒙、青海等地区发展迅速，这些沙棘树体矮小、枝条无刺或少刺，果实较大，约为中国沙棘果实的3～5倍，具有产量高等特点，目前大果沙棘已成为西部地区特色经济植物。
作为药食同源植物，沙棘的根、茎、叶、花、果均含有丰富的营养成分和生物活性物质，沙棘果实入药具有止咳化痰、健胃消食、活血散瘀的功效。沙棘果实中富含维生素、黄酮、甾体、氨基酸、有机酸等各类成分，最具利用价值的成分是维生素和有机酸类。有机酸类物质含量高，苹果酸、柠檬酸、酒石酸、草酸和琥珀酸总含量在3.8～4.5％，是一类重要的营养成分。沙棘果实中还含有一种在其他植物中极为罕见的5-羟色胺，这是一种神经递质成分，对人的生理功能和情感状态具有确切的调节能力。
本发明采用乙醇提取沙棘中的黄色素，提纯后的沙棘黄色素可以作为主成分使头发上色。
发明内容
一种采用沙棘黄色素制备的天然染发剂，其特征在于，采用体积分数为95％的乙醇溶液作为溶剂，溶剂体积为沙棘冻干粉质量的4～16倍，50～70℃加热浸提2～4h，提取出的溶液经过旋蒸回收溶剂，得到沙棘黄色素作为染发剂主成分。
所述天然染发剂包括A剂、B剂与C剂。A剂包含有机酸、增稠剂、碱和溶剂；B剂包含色素、溶剂、保湿剂和增稠剂；C剂包含pH调节剂、金属盐、防腐剂、溶剂。
其中，A剂包含半胱氨酸0.5～1g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.5～1g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠5～10ml、水10～20ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.01～0.1g、无水乙醇0.1～1ml、甘油0.1～0.3ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.05～0.1g、水8～10ml；C剂包含乙酸0.1～0.5ml、氯化亚铁0.2～0.3g、亚硫酸钠1～2g、卡松0.001～0.005g、水10～20ml。
染发方法如下：首先用适量洗发水将头发清洗并漂洗干净，擦干，用电吹风吹至完全干燥。根据发量将适量A剂均匀涂抹于头发上，保证无论发根还是发梢全部涂抹到，保持20～30min；将适量B剂均匀涂抹于头发上，保证无论发根还是发梢全部涂抹到，保持20～30min；最后将C剂均匀涂抹于头发上，保证无论发根还是发梢全部涂抹到，保持20～30min。如能配合适当加热，染发效果会更好。
本发明的优点在于，①克服了化学合成型染发剂的苯胺类衍生物所致毒性和致敏性，不会引起皮肤瘙痒、红肿及其他更严重的不良反应；②改进了常见植物染料在染发过程中不能渗透扩散至发髓、仅涉及头发毛鳞片层及皮质层浅表，所导致的着色效果差；③原料色素提取工艺简单、价格便宜。
附图说明
图1提取时间对沙棘色素得率的影响
图2提取溶剂用量对沙棘色素得率的影响
图3提取温度对沙棘色素得率的影响
具体实施方式
下述实施例中所用的材料、试剂等，如无特殊说明，均可从商业途径得到。
实施例1、沙棘色素的提取
采用体积分数为95％的乙醇溶液作为溶剂，溶剂体积为沙棘冻干粉质量的4～16倍，50～70℃加热浸提2～4h，提取出的溶液经过旋蒸回收溶剂，得到沙棘黄色素。将沙棘黄色素溶解于水中，加入10ml无水乙醇，再用去离子水定容至50ml，测量其在400nm波长下的吸光度A，并计算提取所得的色素浓度。
根据吸光度值计算得到沙棘色素的浓度，分别进行比较。结果见下表及附图1、2、3。
| 样品 | 吸光度A | 稀释倍数 |
| 1:8 60℃2h | 0.314 | 10 |
| 1:8 60℃3h | 0.676 | 5 |
| 1:8 60℃4h | 0.233 | 10 |
| 样品 | 吸光度A | 稀释倍数 |
| 1:4 60℃2h | 0.346 | 2.5 |
| 1:8 60℃2h | 0.314 | 10 |
| 1:16 60℃2h | 0.259 | 10 |
| 样品 | 吸光度A | 稀释倍数 |
| 1:8 50℃2h | 0.508 | 5 |
| 1:8 60℃3h | 0.314 | 10 |
| 1:8 70℃4h | 0.588 | 5 |
得到最优的提取方案为：溶剂体积为沙棘冻干粉质量的8倍，提取温度为60℃，提取时间为3h，提取出的溶液经过旋蒸回收溶剂，得到沙棘黄色素。
实施例2、沙棘色素染发膏的制备
分别按不同的配比制备沙棘色素染发膏。
①A剂包含半胱氨酸0.5g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.5g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠5ml、水10ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.01g、无水乙醇0.1ml、甘油0.1ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.05g、水8ml；C剂包含乙酸0.1ml、氯化亚铁0.2g、亚硫酸钠1g、卡松0.001g、水10ml。
②A剂包含半胱氨酸1g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)1g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠10ml、水20ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.1g、无水乙醇1ml、甘油0.3ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.1g、水10ml；C剂包含乙酸0.5ml、氯化亚铁0.3g、亚硫酸钠2g、卡松0.005g、水20ml。
③A剂包含半胱氨酸0.7g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.7g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠8ml、水15ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.05g、无水乙醇0.5ml、甘油0.2ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.07g、水8～10ml；C剂包含乙酸0.3ml、氯化亚铁0.25g、亚硫酸钠1.5g、卡松0.003g、水15ml。
④A剂包含半胱氨酸0.5g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.5g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠5ml、水10ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.1g、无水乙醇1ml、甘油0.3ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.1g、水10ml；C剂包含乙酸0.5ml、氯化亚铁0.3g、亚硫酸钠2g、卡松0.005g、水20ml。
⑤A剂包含半胱氨酸0.5g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.5g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠5ml、水10ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.01g、无水乙醇0.1ml、甘油0.1ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.05g、水8ml；C剂包含乙酸0.5ml、氯化亚铁0.3g、亚硫酸钠2g、卡松0.005g、水20ml。
⑥A剂包含半胱氨酸0.5g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.5g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠5ml、水10ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.1g、无水乙醇1ml、甘油0.3ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.1g、水10ml；C剂包含乙酸0.1ml、氯化亚铁0.2g、亚硫酸钠1g、卡松0.001g、水10ml。
⑦A剂包含半胱氨酸1g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)1g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠10ml、水20ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.01g、无水乙醇0.1ml、甘油0.1ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.05g、水8ml；C剂包含乙酸0.1ml、氯化亚铁0.2g、亚硫酸钠1g、卡松0.001g、水10ml。
⑧A剂包含半胱氨酸1g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)1g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠10ml、水20ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.1g、无水乙醇1ml、甘油0.3ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.1g、水10ml；C剂包含乙酸0.1ml、氯化亚铁0.2g、亚硫酸钠1g、卡松0.001g、水10ml。
⑨A剂包含半胱氨酸2g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)1g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠10ml、水20ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.2g、无水乙醇1ml、甘油0.3ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.1g、水10ml；C剂包含乙酸0.5ml、氯化亚铁0.5g、亚硫酸钠2g、卡松0.005g、水20ml。
⑩A剂包含半胱氨酸1g、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)1g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠10ml、水20ml；B剂包含沙棘黄色素0.005g、无水乙醇1ml、甘油0.3ml、CMC(羧甲基纤维素)0.1g、水10ml；C剂包含乙酸0.1ml、氯化亚铁0.1g、亚硫酸钠1g、卡松0.001g、水10ml。
采用真人发束进行试验。分别取相同发量的真人发束进行染发，所用染发膏剂量和保留时间相同。观察染后的发束颜色。再将发束进行清洗，分别取相同量的洗发水和纯水，将发束放在烧杯中，用加了洗发水的纯水进行浸泡5min，并不断搅拌，捞出发束，将液体进行紫外吸光度测量；50min后再次用同样方法洗涤，并测量洗涤后液体的紫外吸光度值；重复进行7次。再次观察发束颜色，并将吸光度值进行比较，评价不同配方染发的显色性和色牢度。结果见下表：
由上表可知，配方1-8染色的显色度较好，且几次清洗之后就不再掉色，色牢度较好。而配方9、10清洗多次仍掉色严重，且发束所染发色不佳。
实施例3、对苯二胺定量分析
将B剂进行气相色谱分析，色谱条件为：色谱柱为DB－5MS毛细管柱，规格为(30m×0.25μm×0.25μm)，色谱柱初温90℃，保持1min，以20℃/min升温至280℃，保持15min；分流比为50：1，载气为高纯氦气，载气流量为1.0mL/min；不分流进样，进样量为0.2μL；进样口温度220℃；质谱条件：传输线温度280℃，EI离子源温度250℃，溶剂延迟3min，检测方式为全离子扫描模式(TIC)，扫描范围为40～450m/z。
检测结果显示，按本发明方案制备的染色剂B剂，不含对苯二胺，对人体更为安全。
实施例4、透皮吸收试验
采用实施例2中配方3制备沙棘色素染发膏，和市售的染发膏进行比较。采用离体的猪腹部皮肤，通过自行设计的流通池对透皮吸收情况进行实时性检测，透皮面积为0.64cm2。所有测试每8h取样1次。紫外分光光度计测试吸收的染料吸光度。
结果显示，配方3所制染发膏透皮吸收度明显低于市售含有化学合成染色剂的样品，说明按本发明方案制备的染发膏，生物安全性较化学合成染色剂安全。
实施例5、染发剂染料的溶血效应
健康成人血样由病理中心收集在抗凝血管中，5000r/min离心5min，移除血清和血浆，然后在37℃下将实施例2中配方1-8所制染发膏和市售染发膏加入，与人类红细胞(RBC)样品(用PBS制成质量分数为10％)混合培养30min。0.1％TritonX-100作为阳性对照。培养一段时间后，红细胞样品在5000r/min下离心10min，取上层清液在540nm进行紫外测试。计算染料的LD50值。
结果显示，配方1-8所制染发膏对RBC的溶血效应，明显低于市售染发膏和TritonX-100，说明本发明方案提供的染发膏更为安全无毒。
Claims (2)
1.一种采用沙棘黄色素制备的天然染发剂，其特征在于，所述天然染发剂包括A剂、B剂与C剂；A剂组成为有机酸、增稠剂、碱和溶剂；B剂组成为色素、溶剂、保湿剂和增稠剂；C剂组成为pH调节剂、金属盐、防腐剂、溶剂；其中，A剂组成为半胱氨酸0.5～1g、羧甲基纤维素0.5～1g、质量体积分数5％的氢氧化钠5～10ml、水10～20ml；B剂组成为沙棘黄色素0.01～0.1g、无水乙醇0.1～1ml、甘油0.1～0.3ml、羧甲基纤维素0.05～0.1g、水8～10ml；C剂组成为乙酸0.1～0.5ml、氯化亚铁0.2～0.3g、亚硫酸钠1～2g、卡松0.001～0.005g、水10～20ml；B剂中所述的沙棘黄色素，其提取方法为：采用体积分数为95％的乙醇溶液作为溶剂对沙棘冻干粉进行提取，溶剂体积为沙棘冻干粉质量的4～16倍，50～70℃加热浸提2～4h，提取出的溶液经过旋蒸回收溶剂，得到沙棘黄色素作为染发剂主成分。
2.采用权利要求1所述的染发剂的使用方法，其特征如下：首先用适量洗发水将头发清洗并漂洗干净，擦干，用电吹风吹至完全干燥；根据发量将适量A剂均匀涂抹于头发上，保证无论发根还是发梢全部涂抹到，保持20～30min；将适量B剂均匀涂抹于头发上，保证无论发根还是发梢全部涂抹到，保持20～30min；最后将C剂均匀涂抹于头发上，保证无论发根还是发梢全部涂抹到，保持20～30min；如能配合适当加热，染发效果会更好。
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