CN1086532A - A kind of antioxidant that is used for the beauty and skin care preparation - Google Patents

A kind of antioxidant that is used for the beauty and skin care preparation Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1086532A
CN1086532A CN 92108622 CN92108622A CN1086532A CN 1086532 A CN1086532 A CN 1086532A CN 92108622 CN92108622 CN 92108622 CN 92108622 A CN92108622 A CN 92108622A CN 1086532 A CN1086532 A CN 1086532A
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Prior art keywords
syget
antioxidant
powder
tea
skin
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胡天喜
曹美珍
陈季武
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NANYUAN YONGFANG DEVELOPMENT Co Ltd SHANGHAI
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NANYUAN YONGFANG DEVELOPMENT Co Ltd SHANGHAI
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Abstract

A kind of antioxidant that is used for the beauty and skin care preparation of the present invention comprises Phyllanthus emblica L. powder, the tea-polyphenol of certain proportioning, vitamin-E; Wherein Phyllanthus emblica L. powder and tea-polyphenol all are the fabulous removers of free radical and active oxygen, and they and vitamin-E are compound, and be collaborative mutually, becomes a kind of all-round free radical, the scavenging agent of active oxygen and the blocker of lipid peroxidation.Antioxidant of the present invention is mixed protective skin cream or beautifying nourishing liquid still can keep its all-round anti-oxidation characteristics, and have safely, have no side effect.

Description

A kind of antioxidant that is used for the beauty and skin care preparation
The present invention relates to a kind of oxidation inhibitor, relate in particular to a kind of antioxidant that is used for daily cosmetics.
Traditional beauty method mostly is " whitewashing ", and beautifying, many makeup can cause dermatitis, even make skin aging, especially introduce some artificial synthetic chemical reagent in cosmetic formulations after, its disadvantage is more.Along with further investigation, find that the Metabolic disorder of the color spot, inflammation of skin, dry pathological process such as aging and free radical, active oxygen is closely related to dermatosis.The normal human is in the respiratory metabolism process, and oxygen can be converted into free radical, active oxygen; Simultaneously, spontaneous again formation comprises that the polyphenoils of superoxide-dismutase (SOD) and selenium Selenoperoxidase (SeGSHPx) removes excessive free radical, active oxygen in the body, free radical, oxygen production and removing are in the running balance, unlikely pathology.But the exposed part of human body skin, owing to be subjected to the murder by poisoning of environment such as intensive uviolizing and atmospheric pollution, can produce too much free radical in the primosome, active oxygen, in radiation injury, canceration, inflammation, cardio cerebrovascular affection, in the processes such as organism aging process, also can produce excessive free radical in the body, active oxygen, meanwhile, intravital polyphenoils such as SOD content then descend relatively, cause free radical, active oxygen metabolism is unbalance, thereby make the sex change of body internal protein, polysaccharide degraded, enzyme deactivation, the DNA splitting of chain, membrane permeability changes, and cytoactive descends, so the color spot of skin just occurs, inflammation, pathologies such as wrinkle.Therefore, how polyphenoils is introduced body, correct the imbalance of free radical, active oxygen metabolism, that is, remove following four kinds of active oxygens: super oxide anion (O
Figure 921086229_IMG1
), hydrogen peroxide (H 2O 2), hydroxy radical qiao (OH) and singlet oxygen ( 1O 2), just become a heat subject of recent studies beauty and skin care.The numerous and confused makeup that contain SOD that occur on the market all are the products of this design in recent years.But practice result shows that SOD is introduced makeup many defectives, mainly is:
1.SOD can only remove O
Figure 921086229_IMG2
, disproportionation produces H simultaneously 2O 2
2. the SOD that introduces makeup is the protein that extracts from human body and pig, ox, sheep animal blood, belongs to macromolecular substance, and its molecular weight is 30, more than 000 dalton, be difficult for seeing through skin, its activity just decays half after 6 minutes in entering blood of human body, is difficult to bring into play longer removing O Ability.
3.SOD poor heat resistance, very easy inactivation when making creme, it is very easily rotten to live for a long time.
4.SOD be enzyme, the technology of zymin is complicated, the cost height, and price is expensive.
Therefore, research replaces the technology of SOD, effectively also removes excessive free radical, active oxygen in the body, becomes a focus of current research beauty and skin care again.
It is " going back to nature " that current international cosmetic industry also has a focus, and its reason is self-evident.
Purpose of the present invention just at above-mentioned hot issue, filters out natural antioxidants and nutrition agent efficiently from plant, and they are introduced makeup, makes makeup have efficacy.Because free radical, the excessive free radicals, the active oxygen that produce when active oxygen metabolism is unbalance are multiple classes, so the antioxidant in the makeup is organized in requirement of the present invention, should be more all-round, have trophicity, easily absorbed by skin, can really strengthen the ability of skin Green Tea Extract, active oxygen, thereby remove effectively or the minimizing color spot, repair damaged skin, skin care fitness, the ager process of delaying skin.
The composition that antioxidant of the present invention (Syget) is made up of according to certain proportioning fruit extract (pulvis or concentrated solution), tea-polyphenol and the vitamin-E of a kind of subtropics wild plant-emblic.
Emblic (Phyllanthus emblica L.) fruit contains well-off nutritive ingredient, as vitamins C (higher 20 times than orange juice), vitamin PP, vitamins B 1, B 2, carotene, multiple amino acids, protein, organic acid and Fe, Zn, trace elements such as Ca, Se.Nearest discover it also contain certain quasi-SOD active, can remove super oxide anion (O
Figure 921086229_IMG4
) material.Phyllanthus emblica L. powder among the present invention is provided by resource insect institute of Chinese material institute.
Tea-polyphenol extracts from green tea, and it is a kind of very effective more all-round antioxidant.
Vitamin-E is a kind of inhibitor of known lipid peroxidation.
Above-mentioned three kinds of components are all small-molecule substance, see through skin easily, and Heat stability is good, and long storage can not lost its activity.
The CL method is meant the chemoluminescence method of masurement.Some redox chemical reaction processes, the chemical energy of release can make its reaction product or sensitization material be in excited state, and the excited state instability is emitted photon when its de excitation, and this is called chemoluminescence.For example, under the aerobic conditions, the xanthic chemical reaction of XOD catalysis produces uric acid and O
Figure 921086229_IMG5
, produce O
Figure 921086229_IMG6
It is exactly a kind of excited molecule.When having the sensitizing agent luminol,3-aminophthalic acid cyclic hydrazide, O
Figure 921086229_IMG7
Its excitation energy can be handed to luminol,3-aminophthalic acid cyclic hydrazide, this luminol,3-aminophthalic acid cyclic hydrazide is in excited state.When returning ground state, the luminol,3-aminophthalic acid cyclic hydrazide that excites discharges the light of 425nm.If in this luminescence system, add O Scavenging agent-the Phyllanthus emblica L. extract of free radical or tea-polyphenol go and luminol,3-aminophthalic acid cyclic hydrazide competition O
Figure 921086229_IMG9
Energy, then the chemiluminescence intensity of luminol,3-aminophthalic acid cyclic hydrazide descends.Can be index with chemiluminescent intensity by this, judge tiring of antioxidant.
The present invention adopts chemiluminometry (CL), paramagnetic resonance spin trapping technique (ESR) and colorimetric analysis to study the anti-oxidation characteristics of middle Phyllanthus emblica L. powder of antioxidant of the present invention (Syget) and tea-polyphenol:
The Wester rat that the present invention is for experiment is available from Shanghai Vaccine and Serum Institute's Experimental Animal Center, and is about body weight 180 grams, male.Feed and raise 1mg/ml emblic liquid 2 times every day before the experiment, and every day, 1ml fed 5-7 days continuously, fed 10-14mg altogether.
Kunming mouse is taken from East China biology department of Normal University Animal House, and is male, and body weight 22-25 gram after the anesthesia, shaves off the hair of skin of abdomen, takes out the transdermal test that skin is made Syget in the makeup.
Testing used medicine has: xanthine, luminol,3-aminophthalic acid cyclic hydrazide are available from Sigma company; The zymosan of XOD, conditioning is this laboratory self-control; NaCl, KH 2PO 4, K 2HPO 4, FeSO 4, H 2O 2, CuSO 4, medicine such as NaOCl is homemade analytical reagent; SOD, LPO medicine box (surveying the lipid peroxidation medicine box) are available from Nanjing Railway College of Medicine; The beauty treatment cream base is provided by Nan Yuan Yong Fang group company.
Dimethyl pyridine N-oxide [DMPO(5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline-l-Oxide)] is available from the Nanjing University chemical plant.
Test has with instrument: luminous in respect of two kinds: (1) SHG-1 type biochemiluminescence survey meter (with Ben Bao and Shanghai factory of Bureau of Technical Supervision joint research and development) and (2) FH463A scaler add luminometer (Beijing Nuclear Instrument Factory's product) the .Varian 112EPR spectrometer (paramagnetic resonance spectrometer) that BH0057 photometer probe is formed, the U.S. produces, by nucleus institute of Chinese Academy of Sciences ESR chamber for surveying signal, 721 spectrophotometers (homemade).
The chemical luminous system that the present invention surveys active oxygen with chemiluminometry has: 1. xanthine, xanthine oxydase, luminol,3-aminophthalic acid cyclic hydrazide produce O
Figure 921086229_IMG10
Chemical luminous system, measure Syget and component thereof to O
Figure 921086229_IMG11
Scavenging(action), be ordinate with luminous inhibiting rate, drug level is abscissa mapping, finds out from figure and suppresses luminous 50% concentration (IC 50) weigh the removing O of medicine
Figure 921086229_IMG12
Activity, general life be a unit of activity.
2.H 2O 2-CoCl 2-luminol chemical luminous system is measured medicine and is removed H 2O 2Activity.
3.Vit.C.-Cu 2+-yeast chemical luminous system is surveyed medicine and is removed OH Activity.
4.NaOCl+H 2O 2+ yeast chemical luminous system, survey medicine removing singlet oxygen ( 1O - 2) activity.
5. whole blood phagocytic cell chemical luminous system is surveyed the scavenging(action) of medicine to active oxygen, the activity of observing its totipotency and intravital PMN cell (polymorphonuclear leukocyte).
6. get rat whole brain and prepare physiological saline homogenate, sampling was heated to 37 ℃ (half an hour), survey its spontaneous ultraweak luminescence intensity, luminous intensity with control group is 1.0, heavily filling group of ischemic, ischemic is heavily irritated the ratio of dosing group luminous intensity contrast luminous intensity, represents the former snperoxiaized intensity of the fat of organizing.
(1) A component (Phyllanthus emblica L. powder) and the removing free radical of B component (tea-polyphenol) and the effect of active oxygen in the antioxidant of the present invention (Syget) have been tested with chemoluminescence method (CL), paramagnetic resonance method (ESR), all with IC 50Represent: (seeing Table 1)
Table 1.Syget component A and B remove the ability (IC of active oxygen 50)
The title of active oxygen The CL method The ESR method
A B A B
O
Figure 921086229_IMG13
0.1μg/ml 0.45μg/ml
H 2O 2 250μg/ml -
OH · 255μg/ml 28μg/ml 440μg/ml 120μg/ml
1O 2 139μg/ml -
PMN-CL 350μg/ml 35μg/ml
By table 1 as seen, A and B component all are all-round free-radical scavengerss, and the CL method is similar to the result that the ESR method is surveyed, though the antioxidant effect of A not as B, it also has trophism, and B mainly has been an antioxygenation, B has synergy to A anti-oxidant.
(2) suppress lipid peroxidation, improve the activity of SOD in the cell
In rat brain hypoxic-ischemic model trial, show, the A component can suppress ischemic due to irritating again blood plasma and the LPO of brain, the index so that mda (MDA) forms reduces by 4.6% and 44.3% respectively, erythrocytic endogenous SOD improves 23.1%.The estimating of LPO of the elderly's erythrocyte sod and blood plasma shown that take before and after the A, blood plasma LPO reduces by 11% according to associate professor Liu Fengshu etc., erythrocyte sod 1.3 times (table 2) that raise.
Table 2.A composition improves the erythrocytic SOD of the elderly, reduces the effect of LPO
More than experiment proves absolutely that Phyllanthus emblica L. powder and tea-polyphenol are all removed multiple free radical, active oxygen, especially Phyllanthus emblica L. powder effectively, not only can remove free radical, active oxygen, reduce LPO, and the vigor of SOD in vivo enhancement greatly, the resistance against diseases of enhancing body.
The present invention finds when antioxidant (Syget) is introduced the skin care creme, when the Syget temperature is too high in the Syget creme, though it is anti-oxidant and nutritive validity is splendid, darkens for creme, influences attractive in appearance; Concentration is crossed when hanging down, and is then anti-oxidant not ideal enough with nutritive validity., nutrition anti-oxidant and needs attractive in appearance in order to take into account, each component is pressed proportioning in the antioxidant of the present invention:
Phyllanthus emblica L. powder (wt%) 50.00-98.00%
Tea-polyphenol (wt%) 1.00-25.00%
Vitamin-E (wt%) 1.00-25.00%
Best proportioning is:
Phyllanthus emblica L. powder (wt%) 83.30-96.80%
Tea-polyphenol (wt%) 1.60-8.35%
VITAMIN (wt%) 1.60-8.35%
The present invention finds that composite nutritive solution has strong removing O when antioxidant Syget is introduced beautifying nourishing liquid (oral)
Figure 921086229_IMG15
Effect, even autoclaving sterilization still can keep its activity (table 6).
The strong skin nutritive medium of table 6 is removed O
Figure 921086229_IMG16
Activity
(3) Phyllanthus emblica L. powder (A component) adds the heat-resisting of tea-polyphenol (B component) and storage test:
Oven test-
The present invention finds that by test in 25-90 ℃ of temperature range, A adds B two components and removes O
Figure 921086229_IMG18
, OH And inhibition PMN-CL activity change little (seeing table 7 for details).So in making skin-health cream and nutritive medium process, heating can its oxidation resistant activity of shadow, illustrates that the thermotolerance of Syget is good yet.
Table 7 temperature is to the influence of A+B component resistance of oxidation
2.Syget the storage of creme test: get 1g Syget creme (containing Syget 1g in per 100 grams), add 2ml xanthine liquid, extract Syget in the creme with centrifuging, more freshly prepared Syget creme and 7, between August at room temperature (wherein two weeks weather is more than 35 ℃) deposit 30 days Syget creme removing O Ability, represent (getting 2.5 μ l extracting solutions) with luminous inhibition %.
Table 8 waiting time is to the active influence of Syget
Creme is removed Syget concentration (%) Freshly prepared Syget creme (1%) Deposit 30 days Syget creme (1%)
Luminous inhibiting rate (%) 94.6 93.1
The present invention also further carries out long storage to the A component among the Syget, and the test storage time is removed O to the A component
Figure 921086229_IMG21
The influence of vigor wherein will place 4 ℃ of refrigerators of A Normal juice sealing storage more than 1 year, and A dry powder is packaged in plastics bag, and it is many to deposit half a year under the drying conditions, and it removes O
Figure 921086229_IMG22
Vigor descend less (table 9).Vigor descended then more very when dry powder made moist, as long as preserve appropriately, A Normal juice and dry powder can long storage, and the situation of B dry powder also is similar to A dry powder.
The long-term storage of table 9A Normal juice and dry powder is to removing O
Figure 921086229_IMG23
The influence of vigor
Figure 921086229_IMG24
(4) the transdermal ability test of Syget nourishing cream:
The φ that gets the two communication is 1.1cm, two of the Glass tubings of long 5cm, with same mouse, two plucked skins that take off belly both sides (symmetry) are bundled in an end of two glass-tubes respectively, do two kinds of tests: first kind of test is the physiological saline that injects 1ml in the pipe, the last coating of pipe outer skin (epidermis) 0.5%(wt%) Syget nourishing cream 100mg, control group then is coated with the creme of no Syget, glass-tube is hung (insulation) in the glass bottle, and every interval certain hour is got 50 μ l physiological saline and is measured the reflective of inhibition xanthine-XOD-luminol,3-aminophthalic acid cyclic hydrazide luminescence system; Second kind of test is to add physiological saline in the tubule, adds 0.5% Syget salt solution in the outer glass bottle of pipe, and control group does not add Syget, and sampling is surveyed it to O in the tubule equally The removing ability, two kinds of tests find that all Syget can both see through skin, make intratubular physiological saline tool deposit the ability that suppresses luminous, prolongation along with storage period, transit dose is many more, it is strong more to suppress luminous ability, immerses the skin that contains in the Syget solution, and the amount of transparent Syget is more than the skin many (tables 10) of coating Syget frost.
The transdermal ability of table 10 Syget
Time (hour) 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0
Suppress luminosity factor % Be coated with frost - 3.54 - 18.7 - 25.5 - 29.0 - 52.5 - 64.7
Immersion liquid 23.4 67.5 75.5 88.9 89.9 94.7 95.2 97.6 96.6 - - -
Above transdermal test shows that Syget is easy to enter skin, and skin permeation rate is high.
By Phyllanthus emblica L. powder (A component) in the visible the present invention of above-mentioned various tests-" Syget " component and tea-polyphenol (B component) all is the fabulous scavenging agent of free radical, active oxygen, they and vitamin-E are compound, collaborative mutually, can be described as the scavenging agent of all-round free radical, active oxygen and the blocker of lipid peroxidation.After mixing in protective skin cream (putting on the skin) and the beautifying nourishing liquid (oral) outward with " Syget ", still can keep its all-round anti-oxidation characteristics.These antioxidants mainly are small-molecule substances, see through skin easily, remove the excessive free radicals and the active oxygen that produce in the skin efficiently.Host Phyllanthus emblica L. powder and tea-polyphenol all are natural plant extracts, and safety has no side effect, and have thermostability, and long storage is not lost its active characteristics.These advantages of " Syget " are that the SOD makeup of existing market fast sale are incomparable.
Embodiment 1
In cream base, mix 0.1% Syget dry powder (wherein the Phyllanthus emblica L. powder content 83.3%, tea-polyphenol 8.35%, VITAMIN 8.35%), make Syget creme 100g, take out 1 gram and do following test:
Measuring O
Figure 921086229_IMG26
Chemical luminous system in, add 2ml xanthine liquid and extract Syget, measuring OH Then use KH in the chemical luminous system 2PO 4-K 2HPO 4Damping fluid 2ml extracts Syget, and the centrifugal 10min of 2500 commentaries on classics/min gets the bottom clear liquid and surveys CL and inhibiting rate thereof, represents O respectively
Figure 921086229_IMG27
And OH Scavenging(action), the results are shown in Table 3.
Embodiment 2
In cream base, mix 0.5% Syget dry powder (wherein the Phyllanthus emblica L. powder is 96.2%, tea-polyphenol 1.90%, vitamin e1 .90% makes Syget creme 100 grams, takes out 1 gram and tests, test method is with embodiment 1, test-results sees Table 3.
Embodiment 3
Configuration 1.0%(wt%) Syget dry powder (wherein the Phyllanthus emblica L. powder content is 98.0%, tea-polyphenol 1.00%, vitamin e1 .00%), all the other are with embodiment 2.
Table 3 Syget creme is to O
Figure 921086229_IMG28
And OH Scavenging(action)
Figure 921086229_IMG29
Annotate: measuring O
Figure 921086229_IMG30
Chemical luminous system in the sampling 2.5 μ l;
Sampling 50 μ l in the chemical luminous system of measuring OH.
Embodiment 4-12: change the content of the Syget dry powder that is mixed in the cream base, and each set of dispense is prepared and tested in the Syget dry powder than (seeing Table 11) by the method for embodiment 1.
Table 11 embodiment 4-12
Embodiment NO. 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Syget content wt% in the creme 0.02 0.05 0.20 0.30 0.40 0.60 0.70 0.80 0.90
Syget Phyllanthus emblica L. powder wt% tea-polyphenol wt% vitamin-E wt% 50.0 25.0 25.0 71.4 14.3 14.3 91.0 4.50 4.50 93.8 3.10 3.10 95.2 2.40 2.40 96.8 1.60 1.60 97.2 1.40 1.40 97.5 1.25 1.25 97.8 1.10 1.10

Claims (3)

1, a kind of antioxidant that is used for the beauty and skin care preparation is characterized in that it comprises following component (wt%):
Phyllanthus emblica L. powder 50.0-98.0%
Tea-polyphenol 1.0-25.0%
Vitamin-E 1.0-25.00%.
2, antioxidant as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that the proportioning of its best is (wt%):
Phyllanthus emblica L. powder 83.3-96.80%
Many powder of tea 1.60-8.35%
Vitamin-E 1.60-8.35%
3, the antioxidant that is used for the beauty and skin care preparation as claimed in claim 1, it is oral to it is characterized in that it also makes beautifying nourishing liquid except making the creme external-use skin care.
CN 92108622 1992-11-05 1992-11-05 A kind of antioxidant that is used for the beauty and skin care preparation Pending CN1086532A (en)

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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2730408A1 (en) * 1995-02-09 1996-08-14 Hanna Claude COMPOSITIONS WITH DEPIGMENTING ACTIVITY AND APPLICATIONS THEREOF
EP1156770A4 (en) * 1999-02-17 2005-06-22 Natreon Inc Natural antioxidant compositions, method for obtaining same and cosmetic, pharmaceutical and nutritional formulations thereof
WO2009094374A3 (en) * 2008-01-25 2009-09-17 Schering-Plough Healthcare Products, Inc. Method of selecting antioxidants for use in topically applied compositions
CN103689155A (en) * 2013-12-24 2014-04-02 广西博士海意信息科技有限公司 Beauty health tea
CN107296268A (en) * 2017-07-04 2017-10-27 福建农林大学 A kind of Phyllanthus embical fruit powder EGCG compounds and preparation method thereof
CN107535657A (en) * 2017-10-24 2018-01-05 福建农林大学 A kind of health protection tea of the powder containing Phyllanthus embical fruit and preparation method thereof

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2730408A1 (en) * 1995-02-09 1996-08-14 Hanna Claude COMPOSITIONS WITH DEPIGMENTING ACTIVITY AND APPLICATIONS THEREOF
WO1996024327A1 (en) * 1995-02-09 1996-08-15 Hanna, Claude Compositions having depigmenting activity, and uses thereof
EP1156770A4 (en) * 1999-02-17 2005-06-22 Natreon Inc Natural antioxidant compositions, method for obtaining same and cosmetic, pharmaceutical and nutritional formulations thereof
WO2009094374A3 (en) * 2008-01-25 2009-09-17 Schering-Plough Healthcare Products, Inc. Method of selecting antioxidants for use in topically applied compositions
US9096882B2 (en) 2008-01-25 2015-08-04 Msd Consumer Care, Inc. Method of selecting antioxidants for use in topically applied compositions
US10241121B2 (en) 2008-01-25 2019-03-26 Bayer Healthcare Llc Method of selecting antioxidants for use in topically applied compositions
CN103689155A (en) * 2013-12-24 2014-04-02 广西博士海意信息科技有限公司 Beauty health tea
CN107296268A (en) * 2017-07-04 2017-10-27 福建农林大学 A kind of Phyllanthus embical fruit powder EGCG compounds and preparation method thereof
CN107535657A (en) * 2017-10-24 2018-01-05 福建农林大学 A kind of health protection tea of the powder containing Phyllanthus embical fruit and preparation method thereof

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