CN108024945B

CN108024945B - Low viscosity eye color cosmetic composition containing wax

Info

Publication number: CN108024945B
Application number: CN201680054274.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 张賐姬; 韩恩实
Original assignee: Amorepacific Corp
Current assignee: Amorepacific Corp
Priority date: 2015-09-30
Filing date: 2016-09-27
Publication date: 2021-04-20
Anticipated expiration: 2036-09-27
Also published as: KR20170038323A; TWI699217B; HK1255054A1; TW201713310A; CN108024945A; KR102429029B1; WO2017057889A1

Abstract

The invention provides a low-viscosity eye color cosmetic composition containing wax. The eye color cosmetic composition according to the present invention is characterized by containing both crystalline wax and non-crystalline wax. Therefore, the eye color cosmetic composition of the present invention exhibits low viscosity even when containing wax, and is suitable for use in soft-pencil type or eye color cosmetic products in which the composition is sprayed through a nozzle. The eye color cosmetic composition is formed by an oil phase matrix dosage form, thereby showing obviously improved endurance and waterproof performance.

Description

Low viscosity eye color cosmetic composition containing wax

Technical Field

The present invention claims priority benefits based on the korean patent licensing No. 10-2015-0137555 of 30 japanese 9/2015, and all the contents disclosed in the relevant korean patent licensing documents are included as part of the present invention and are included in the present specification.

The invention relates to a low-viscosity eye color cosmetic composition containing crystalline wax and non-crystalline wax, which is an eye color cosmetic composition with improved waterproof performance.

Background

A soft-pen type eyeliner which is easy to carry and use is preferred because of its natural coloring and soft touch. However, the soft-pen eyeliner is troublesome because the brush head surface is easily solidified when it is used, and therefore, it is necessary to wash it frequently or the number of times of pressing it when it is reused is increased.

The soft-pencil type eyeliner must eject the contents through the nozzle, thereby causing a limitation that the eye color cosmetic composition filled into the soft-pencil type eyeliner must be a liquid preparation of low viscosity (100 to 2000 cps). Therefore, most of the conventional soft-tipped eyeliners cannot be prepared by using a wax having a large viscosity increase range as a base and using an aqueous phase matrix as a base.

In this case, however, there are problems such as a decrease in pigment adhesion and powder falling due to the absence of wax, and a tinge due to a decrease in durability. In order to improve the above problems, a film forming agent is excessively used because the film forming agent has a property of rapidly drying in the air and forming a coating film, thereby causing a problem that the surface of the brush head is easily solidified.

The problem of brush head solidification greatly reduces the satisfaction of using the color cosmetic product. In order to solve this problem, various studies have been made, and it is considered that the film-forming agent is not used in excess and the addition of wax is the most effective solution.

Meanwhile, the addition of wax and the provision of a composition based on an oil phase matrix can significantly improve the durability and water-proof property, and thus the wax-containing formulation is an optimum form for improving both the feeling of use and the performance, and the necessity thereof is further highlighted.

However, in the preparation of the wax-containing eyeliner composition, a low viscosity of 100 to 2000cps is exhibited, durability can be secured without using an excessive amount of a film forming agent, and the like, but there is a technical limitation that it is not easy to combine waxes at will.

[ Prior art documents ]

Korean registered patent No. 1060805, "a water-proof eye make-up composition with good durability".

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors prepared eye makeup compositions by mixing crystalline wax and non-crystalline wax, and confirmed that the eye makeup compositions thus prepared exhibited low viscosity and were excellent in durability and water-proof properties, thereby completing the present invention.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide an eye color cosmetic composition containing wax having good staying power and water-repellent property and low viscosity.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention provides an eye color cosmetic composition containing a crystalline wax and an amorphous wax.

The invention has the following effects:

the invention provides an eye color cosmetic composition containing wax, which has good endurance and waterproof performance and low viscosity. Therefore, the eye makeup composition of the present invention is suitable for soft-pencil type or eye makeup products using a composition sprayed from a nozzle.

Detailed Description

The invention provides an eye color cosmetic composition containing crystalline wax and non-crystalline wax.

Unlike the conventional aqueous matrix formulation, the eye makeup composition of the present invention is an oil phase matrix formulation containing a wax form. The composition of the eye color cosmetic composition comprises wax, and the viscosity of the composition ranges from 100cps to 2,000cps due to the limitation of the composition and the content, so that the durability and the pigment adhesive force after the eye color cosmetic composition is applied can be improved even if a film forming agent is not used excessively.

In particular, when the composition is used in a soft-tipped makeup product, the composition sprayed from a nozzle can be maintained at an appropriate level due to the low viscosity characteristic, and the surface of the soft-tipped brush head with the composition is not easily solidified because the composition does not contain an excessive amount of a film-forming agent, so that the use feeling is good.

Therefore, the eye color cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably a soft-pencil eye color cosmetic or an eye color cosmetic of any other form used by directly applying the composition through a nozzle, and may be used as a soft-pencil eyeliner composition, for example, but not limited thereto.

On the other hand, with respect to the terms used in the present specification,

by 'crystalline wax' is meant all kinds of waxes that form crystals. However, the following non-crystalline waxes are excluded.

The term "non-crystalline wax" refers to a wax having such a characteristic that when used in combination with a crystalline wax, it produces little crystallization or removes crystallization (non-crystallization).

The present invention will be described in detail below. In the following description, only the most representative embodiments are described in order to facilitate understanding of the present invention, but the scope of the claims of the present invention is not limited thereto, and it should be understood that the present invention includes all the scope equivalent to the following description.

Waxes (wax) are phase-changed into a solid and a liquid based on a melting point, and a wax that achieves crystallization below the melting point is called a crystalline wax, and such crystalline waxes are classified into plate crystals, needle crystals, and amorphous crystals according to the shape of the crystals. In contrast, a wax that does not crystallize below the melting point is referred to as an amorphous wax.

The higher the crystallization property of the wax, the higher the viscosity of the wax, and the harder and harder the coating of the solidified wax. Conversely, the smaller the crystallization property, the lower the viscosity, and the property of not easily forming a film is exhibited.

The combination of crystalline and non-crystalline waxes in the present invention maintains the viscosity of the composition in a balanced manner. That is, when only crystalline wax is used, the durability is good, but the viscosity is high, so that it is not suitable for a soft pen type color cosmetic, and when only amorphous wax is used, the viscosity is low, but the durability is low, and when a mixture of the various waxes is included, an eye color cosmetic composition exhibiting appropriate viscosity and durability can be obtained. Also, the present invention provides an eye make-up composition that can embody optimal efficacy by controlling the contents and combined weight ratio of the crystalline wax and the non-crystalline wax.

Since the eye makeup composition according to the present invention contains the crystalline wax, the surface rigidity of the composition can be increased, the durability after application can be improved, and halation can be prevented even without using a film-forming agent.

The crystalline wax may be selected from one or more of paraffin wax, carnauba wax, polyethylene wax, rice wax, ozokerite, sericin, candelilla wax and beeswax.

Specifically, the paraffin is represented by the formula C_nH_2n+2The alkane (alkane) mixture represented by (n is not less than 19, preferably 20 to 40) is a white and soft room-temperature solid substance derived from petroleum, coal or oil shale. The paraffin wax is insoluble in water, but easily soluble in ether, benzene and ester.

Carnauba wax is a substance obtained from leaves of plants of the family palmaceae, used as a raw material contained in cosmetic compositions, and is a wax having a very high hardness among common waxes. In particular, the resin has a hardening property of being cured into a yellowish brown to light brown color, and is easily cured and brittle. Further, the wax is one of vegetable waxes which is excellent in smoothness, glossiness, body, hardenability, microcrystallinity, and the like. When the above-mentioned carnauba wax is contained in the cosmetic composition, the melting point can be increased by mixing with other oils and fats or waxes, and the amount of the wax used is often smaller than that of the other waxes used together. When mascara or the like contains the carnauba wax, there is also an advantage that a water-resistant film can be formed.

Polyethylene wax is a low molecular weight polyethylene and is in the wax state in appearance. The polyethylene wax has a molecular weight between that of paraffin wax and polyethylene, and thus has intermediate strength, intermediate heat resistance (melting point) of both substances. Since the polyethylene wax is included together with the paraffin wax, the melting point and strength of the paraffin wax can be increased.

Rice wax, also known as rice bran wax (rice bran wax) or rice bran oil, can be extracted from rice bran. The main component is ester of higher fatty acid and higher alcohol, so that the wax has good compatibility with animal and vegetable waxes, mineral waxes, fatty acid salt waxes, glyceride waxes and hydrocarbon waxes. The rice wax has a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) value as low as 6-9, is different from natural waxes such as carnauba wax and beeswax when in use, and needs an emulsifier. In general, it is often the case that the cosmetic composition is selectively applied.

Ozokerite, a natural mineral wax, is a hydrocarbon wax derived from mineral or petroleum feedstocks. The ceresin has melting point of 65 deg.C, and microcrystalline structure composed of needle or short plate. The affinity to oil and the compatibility with paraffin wax are particularly good. For example, when 5 to 15% of ceresin wax is added to paraffin wax, the melting temperature can be lowered to about 54 ℃, and the overall physical properties of the composition can be improved. When the ozokerite is contained in the cosmetic composition, the ozokerite has the effect of improving the viscosity and hardness of the composition as a water-insoluble tackifier. Further, it can provide a soft feeling in use, stabilize an unstable emulsified state, and make the part to which the cosmetic composition is applied feel moist and soft.

Further, a substance obtained by refining the ozokerite is called sericin.

Candelilla wax is a natural ester extracted from the stems of candelilla plants such as the Euphorbia cerifera alcocers, the Euphorbia antipyphyllitica Zuccarini and the Pedilanthus Boissier (Euphorbiaceae). When the candelilla wax is included in the cosmetic composition, the candelilla wax, as a water-insoluble thickener, has the effects of stabilizing the unstable emulsified state of the composition and adjusting the viscosity and hardness of the cosmetic composition, and can form a coating film, wrap softly to protect the application site and impart gloss and softness. In addition, evaporation of water at the applied part can be prevented, and the repairing function is provided and the moistening feeling is kept.

Beeswax is also called beeswax, and is mainly composed of palmitic acid ester of beeswax alcohol and wax acid, and contains other various fatty acids, alcohols, higher hydrocarbons, etc., and is present in the form of a mixture. The melting point of the beeswax is 62-63 ℃, and the beeswax is characterized by having slight adhesiveness.

The eye color cosmetic composition according to the present invention includes an amorphous wax to provide the composition with a low viscosity at an appropriate level to enable smooth ejection and to suppress the formation of a coating film.

As the non-crystalline wax, without being limited thereto, a representative non-crystalline wax is a microcrystalline wax.

The microcrystalline wax is a microcrystalline wax mainly composed of isoalkane, and has high flexibility and a relatively high melting point. The above microcrystalline wax is classified as an amorphous wax because it has a property of extremely small crystals or completely removing crystals when it is mixed with other crystalline waxes (e.g., paraffin wax).

The total content of the crystalline wax and the non-crystalline wax is preferably 0.1 to 10 wt% of the total weight of the eye color cosmetic composition. When the total content of the wax is less than the above range, it is difficult to sufficiently exert the intended effect of the present invention (e.g., pigment adhesion force, etc.), and when it is out of the above range, the viscosity of the entire composition becomes high even in the case of including the amorphous wax, so that the ejection force of the composition through the nozzle is reduced.

And, the crystalline wax and the non-crystalline wax contained in the total content range are set to 1: 0.1-1: 0.7 by weight. If the content of the amorphous wax is less than 10% by weight relative to the content of the crystalline wax, the viscosity of the composition becomes too high to be ejected through a nozzle, and if it exceeds 70% by weight, the wax film becomes too soft and the durability is deteriorated.

On the other hand, the eye makeup composition of the present invention may optionally contain a pigment, a loose powder, a dispersant, a preservative, a tackifier, a film-forming agent, and other functional components, in addition to the basic structure containing the crystalline wax and the amorphous wax, as described above, within a range that does not impair the object and effects of the present invention.

In order to facilitate understanding of the present invention, examples, comparative examples and evaluation examples will be disclosed below. However, the following are merely examples relating to the constitution and effects of the present invention, and the scope of the right of the present invention is not limited thereto.

Examples 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4

Eye color cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were prepared according to the compositions disclosed in table 1 below. Specifically, the eye color cosmetic composition is a soft pencil type eye liner composition.

Examples 1 to 2 are eye color cosmetic compositions of the present invention, which are formulations including both crystalline wax and amorphous wax. Specifically, in example 1, the weight ratio of the crystalline wax to the amorphous wax was set to 3: in example 2, the weight ratio of the crystalline wax to the amorphous wax was set to 4.5: 0.5, the content ratio of the wax in each example was varied.

Comparative example 1 is a conventional eye make-up composition, an aqueous matrix dosage form containing no wax and an excess of film forming agent. Comparative example 2 is an eye make-up composition in an oil phase matrix formulation without wax and comprising an excess of film former. Comparative example 3 is an eye liner composition of an oil phase matrix formulation containing only a crystalline wax, and comparative example 4 is an eye makeup composition of an oil phase matrix formulation containing only a non-crystalline wax.

TABLE 1

Experimental example 1: jetting force test

The viscosities of the compositions of examples 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were measured, and the ejection force of the compositions through the nozzle was evaluated when the compositions were applied to a soft pen type product.

The evaluation methods used were to fill the compositions of examples 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 with soft-tipped eyeliner, and to press the extracted portion of the contents until the brush head was wetted, and then the number of presses was measured.

The evaluation results are shown in Table 2 below.

TABLE 2

Evaluating items	Example 1	Example 2	Comparative example 1	Comparative example 2	Comparative example 3	Comparative example 4
							Viscosity (cps)	900	1,800	950	1,000	4,200	450
Number of times of pressing	5	8	6	5	X	2

Referring to table 2, as the eye make-up composition of the present invention comprising both crystalline wax and amorphous wax, the viscosities of examples 1 to 2 all satisfied the range of viscosity that can be sprayed through the nozzle, i.e., the range of 100cps to 2,000 cps. In the comparative examples, comparative examples 1 to 2, which are a wax-free type, and comparative example 4, which is a wax-free type, and which contains only an amorphous wax satisfy the above viscosity range which can be ejected through a nozzle. However, the case of comparative example 3 containing only crystalline wax is: forming a viscosity that is too high to be suitable for soft-tipped pen formulations.

The ejection force of the composition satisfying the viscosity range was evaluated. In general, the evaluation of the appropriate spray force of the soft-pen type color cosmetic was based on whether the brush head was wet within 10 presses, and the weight ratio of the crystalline wax to the non-crystalline wax was 3: example 1 of 2 was pressed only 5 times and the brush head was wet, as opposed to 3 more times, i.e. 8 more times, for example 2 where the weight of the amorphous wax was much less than the crystalline wax. As described above, the viscosity and the ejection force were different depending on the specific composition of the wax, but it was confirmed that examples 1 to 2 all had an appropriate ejection force at an appropriate viscosity.

Experimental example 2: test of degree of solidification of surface of brush head

When the compositions of examples 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 wet the surface of the soft pen-type brush head and then the surface of the brush head was sprayed, the degree of solidification was confirmed. The evaluation method is as follows.

Evaluation method

After leaving the soft-tipped eye color cosmetic product used 10 times or more for 3 days (the brush head surface is dry), the number of presses for rewetting the brush head surface was measured after the above-described ejection force test.

-. very good: the number of further pressing times is within 5, o: the number of further presses was 6 to 10, Δ: number of further presses 11 to 15, X: the number of further pressing was 16 or more, thereby evaluating the degree of coagulation of the brush head surface.

The smaller the number of further presses, the smaller the degree of coagulation of the brush head surface is assessed.

The evaluation results are shown in Table 3 below.

TABLE 3

Evaluating items

Example 1

Example 2

Comparative example 1

Comparative example 2

Comparative example 3

Comparative example 4

Viscosity (cps)

900

1,800

950

1,000

4,200

450

Degree of coagulation of brush head surface

◎

○

△

○

-

○

As can be seen from table 3, in the case of the composition of comparative example 1, which is a conventional aqueous base formulation and in which a film-forming agent is used in an excessive amount, the number of times of pressing is 16 or more, and the degree of solidification of the brush head surface is slightly hard, whereas the compositions of examples 1 and 2 according to the present invention can sufficiently wet the brush head and keep the surface soft even when the number of times of pressing is less than or equal to the number of times of pressing at the beginning when they are used again.

In comparative example 3, the ejection was not performed, and thus the ejection was ignored. On the other hand, in the case of comparative example 2, the brush head surface was kept soft based on the oil phase matrix, while in the case of comparative example 4, the brush head surface was also kept soft by the influence of the amorphous wax alone.

Experimental example 3: evaluation of feeling of use

The soft-tipped eyeliners filled with the compositions of examples 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were subjected to sensory evaluation regarding the characteristics such as powder falling, bleeding durability (bleeding resistance), water-repellent performance, and drying speed.

The sensory evaluation was conducted on the following evaluation items (X: poor/. DELTA.: normal/. smallero.: good/. very good/. circleincircle.: good) with X, Delta,. smallcircle.: very good) after applying the compositions of examples 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4, respectively, to a panel of 30 persons. And digitizing the evaluation indexes of the items according to 1-5 points, and obtaining the final evaluation result of each item from the average value of the sum.

The evaluation results are shown in Table 4 below.

TABLE 4

Evaluating items

Example 1

Example 2

Comparative example 1

Comparative example 2

Comparative example 3

Comparative example 4

Less powder drop

○

◎

△

X

△

X

Persistence of halation

◎

○

X

△

Water resistance

◎

X

◎

○

Drying speed

○

◎

○

△

Referring to table 4 above, it was confirmed that the eye makeup compositions of examples 1 and 2 according to the present invention had less powder drop and had excellent bleed durability, water-repellent property, and drying rate. In addition, it can be seen that the evaluation results of comparative example 1 as a composition of a conventional wax-free aqueous matrix formulation are particularly poor in powder drop characteristics and water-proof properties, whereas in the compositions of examples 1 to 2, the problem of powder drop is improved by containing wax and the water-proof properties are also improved by preparing an oil-phase matrix formulation.

In addition, in the above-mentioned experimental examples 1 and 2, it was confirmed that the powder falling and staining problems of comparative examples 2 and 4, in which the ejection force was strong and the brush head surface was kept soft, were serious, the feeling of use was low, and the drying rate of comparative example 4 was also poor, and it was confirmed that the agent was a dosage form unsuitable for use.

In particular, when comparative example 2, which is the same in the point of preparing an oil phase matrix formulation but differs in the point of containing wax, is compared with examples 1 and 2 of the present invention, it can be seen that the wax-containing point greatly affects the adhesion of the pigment and the durability after application of the composition.

Further, it is found that the crystalline wax exerts an important effect of improving the adhesion and durability of the pigment by comparing the evaluation results of comparative example 4 and examples 1 and 2 of the oil phase matrix formulation containing only the amorphous wax.

Claims

1. An eye color cosmetic composition comprising a crystalline wax and a non-crystalline wax;

the crystalline wax is selected from more than one of the group consisting of polyethylene wax, rice wax, ozokerite and candelilla wax,

the total content of the crystalline wax and the non-crystalline wax is 0.1 to 10 wt% relative to the total weight of the whole composition, and the weight ratio of the crystalline wax to the non-crystalline wax is 1: 0.1-1: 0.7,

the eye color cosmetic composition has a viscosity of 100 to 2,000cps,

the eye color cosmetic composition is used for soft pen type eyeliner.