CN107964725B - Double-sided knitted light-weight elastic dragon and phoenix woolen fabric with tatting visual effect - Google Patents
Double-sided knitted light-weight elastic dragon and phoenix woolen fabric with tatting visual effect Download PDFInfo
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- CN107964725B CN107964725B CN201710753039.4A CN201710753039A CN107964725B CN 107964725 B CN107964725 B CN 107964725B CN 201710753039 A CN201710753039 A CN 201710753039A CN 107964725 B CN107964725 B CN 107964725B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C29/00—Finishing or dressing, of textile fabrics, not provided for in the preceding groups
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a double-sided knitted lightweight elastic dragon and phoenix woolen fabric with a tatting visual effect, which is characterized in that double-sided knitted grey cloth is subjected to a needling process, wool-containing yarns on the back are reversely needled to the front of the grey cloth, and then the surface of the wool cloth is finished, wherein the grey cloth is woven by three kinds of yarns on an 11-needle 34-inch double-sided circular knitting machine: the first yarn is acrylic yarn containing wool, the second yarn is polyester yarn, the third yarn is polyester yarn, the first yarn is shown on the back of the grey cloth, the third yarn is shown on the front of the grey cloth, the second yarn is used as connecting yarn of the first yarn and the third yarn and is positioned in the middle of the grey cloth, and the wool content of the fabric is 3-6 wt%. The color of the fabric is novel and changeable, the color of the fabric with single dyeing is distinguished, the fabric is enabled to have a high-grade visual effect, the effect that high wool is made by low wool is achieved, and full wool feeling can be achieved without a milling process.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of woolen fabrics, and particularly relates to a double-faced knitted Longfeng woolen fabric which is low in gram weight, good in restorability and not prone to deformation.
Background
The woolen fabric is one of the fabrics which are most concerned in autumn and winter in recent years, due to the natural characteristics of wool, the woven fabrics have great performance difference, the requirement on wool content is high in order to increase the soft, glutinous and thick handfeel of wool, and the high-content woolen fabric is high in price, great in finishing difficulty, and serious in pilling, wearing wrinkle and crumpling deformation.
Compared with knitting, the tatting fabric has the characteristics of high strength and good breadth stability, so widely circulated woolen fabrics in the market mainly adopt tatting, but the tatting woolen fabrics have the defects of unsatisfactory softness and elasticity in the wearing process, and better fullness and stiffness can be obtained only after the tatting woolen fabrics and other fabrics form a composite fabric.
Patent publication No. CN103317784B discloses a wool composite fabric, which is composed of a base fabric and a wool tatted fabric, wherein the wool tatted fabric and the base fabric are compounded through needling, and wool fibers in the wool tatted fabric penetrate through the base fabric through needling so that two layers of fabrics are compounded together. The fabric still belongs to a composite fabric, is heavy in weight and thick, and does not solve the problem that the flexibility and elasticity of the woven woolen fabric are not ideal.
In addition, the color presentation of the woolen cloth is also the key for the production of the fabric, and the development of high-grade and changeable color visual effects is also a problem to be considered by the technical personnel in the field.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a double-sided knitted Longfeng fabric aiming at the prior art, the gray fabric of the fabric is a double-sided knitted fabric, three kinds of yarns are woven on a 11-needle 34-inch double-sided circular knitting machine, the wool yarns are penetrated from the weaving back to the surface through a needling process, and then the surface of a woolen garment with a high wool effect is finished to form the Longfeng knitted fabric.
In addition, three kinds of yarns for weaving are further set according to the weaving process, and the dyeing process is combined, so that the fabric has a special two-color or even three-color visual effect, the color is novel and changeable, the color of the fabric dyed singly is distinguished, and the fabric has a high-grade visual effect.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the problems is as follows: the double-sided knitted lightweight elastic dragon and phoenix woolen fabric with the tatting visual effect is characterized in that double-sided knitted grey cloth is subjected to a needling process, wool-containing yarns on the back side are reversely needled to the front side of the grey cloth, and then the surface of the wool cloth is finished, wherein the grey cloth is woven by three kinds of yarns on an 11-needle 34-inch double-sided circular knitting machine: the first yarn is acrylic yarn containing wool, the second yarn is polyester yarn, the third yarn is polyester yarn, the first yarn is shown on the back of the grey cloth, the third yarn is shown on the front of the grey cloth, the second yarn is used as connecting yarn of the first yarn and the third yarn and is positioned in the middle of the grey cloth, and the wool content of the fabric is 3-6 wt%.
In order to improve the color expressiveness of the woolen fabric, the third yarn adopts colored polyester yarns, the second yarn adopts colorless polyester yarns or colored polyester yarns, the color of the third yarn is used as the ground color of the fabric, the dyed acrylic fibers containing wool are needled to the front side of the fabric, and mixed color is formed under the background of the ground color of the polyester on the front side or mixed with the ground color; for the condition that the second yarn and the third yarn are different in color, the woolen cloth can show a color mixing effect of three colors.
Preferably, the count of the first yarn is 13.5Ne/1, the fineness of the second yarn is 150D, and the fineness of the third yarn is 300D.
Preferably, the content of wool in the acrylic yarn is 6-10wt%, the wool content is low, and the effects of low wool content and strong woolen feeling are realized.
A weaving method of a double-sided knitted lightweight elastic Longfeng woolen fabric with a tatting visual effect comprises the following steps of 1) weaving knitted grey cloth: the yarn is woven by adopting an 11-needle 34-inch double-sided circular knitting machine and three yarns: the first yarn is acrylic yarn containing wool, the second yarn is polyester yarn, the third yarn is polyester yarn, the first yarn is shown on the back surface of the grey cloth, the third yarn is shown on the front surface of the grey cloth, the second yarn is used as connecting yarn of the first yarn and the third yarn and is positioned in the middle of the grey cloth, the wool content of the fabric is 3-6wt%, and the grey cloth is double-sided knitted grey cloth;
2) dyeing: for non-yarn-dyed grey cloth, sequentially carrying out deoiling, dyeing, softening and smoothing and dewatering, wherein polyester yarns are dyed in the dyeing process, and then wool-containing polyester yarns are dyed; for grey cloth dyed by polyester yarn, only the wool acrylic yarn needs to be dyed;
3) scutching and shaping;
4) and (3) needling: the method comprises the following steps of (1) enabling the wool acrylic yarn on the back to penetrate through the polyester layer on the front side from bottom to top to form a wool original layer on the surface of grey cloth, wherein the operation mode is as follows: continuously passing the grey cloth through 8-13 needle machines, wherein each needle machine is provided with a needle board, triangular needles with barbs are fully arranged on the needle boards, the barbs are formed on the corner edges, the needling frequency is 1050 times/min, and the running speed of the grey cloth is 3.8-4 m/min; the needling depth of each needling machine is reduced, and as a better mode, the barbs of the needling needles with large needling depth are less than those of the needling needles with small needling depth;
5) tentering the needled grey cloth;
6) decating, forming the woolen layer on the surface of the grey cloth.
Preferably, in the needling step, the needling depth of the needling board on the first needling machine is 9-10 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the second needling machine is 8-10 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the third needling machine is 8mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the fourth needling machine is 7mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the fifth needling machine is 5-6 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the sixth needling machine is 5-6 mm, and the needling depth of the needling board on the seventh and subsequent needling machines is 5 mm. Thereby forming repeatedly stabs with different lengths and improving the plumpness and smoothness of the woolen cloth.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the advantages that:
the application adopts three kinds of yarns to weave double-sided knitted grey cloth, belongs to single-layer grey cloth, and wherein wool and acrylic fibers are compatible, and as the grey cloth back, then the dacron layer that passes grey cloth openly through the acupuncture is arranged into the woolen surface, and the woolen surface layer that contains the finishing of wool acrylic fibers yarn is fine and smooth thick, fluffy and soft, and the sense of luster is strong to improve the full glutinous sense of woolen, realize that low wool content makes the effect of high wool content.
This application adopts single-layer knitting grey cloth to put out the woolen fabric, and the surface fabric grammes per square metre is low, and as autumn and winter dress surface fabric, the vision is plump abundant, and is slim and graceful laminating on wearing.
The grey cloth of the woolen fabric is a knitted fabric, and compared with the woven woolen fabric, the woolen fabric is good in elasticity and strong in overall resilience. Meanwhile, the surface layer of the woolen cloth is formed by arranging the woolen cloth through needling, so that the clothing surface is more compact than the traditional knitted woolen cloth, the whole activity of the fabric is strong, the strength of the fabric is high, the fabric is not easy to wrinkle, the restorability is strong, and compared with the woolen cloth with high wool content, the woolen cloth overcomes the defect of deformation in wearing.
In the aspect of the colour, the colour of traditional woolen cloth is single, and the colour of this application is nimble senior more, can realize double-colored effect, adopts dark green for example wool acrylic yarn, and the third kind dacron silk adopts black, and final surface fabric is just that black reflects the green under the lining, and visual effect is senior grey.
In addition, compared with woolen cloth with high wool content, the woolen cloth does not need to reflect the wool feeling through a felting process, and the characteristics of fullness, fluffiness, low price, compactness, elasticity and light weight can be realized by directly selecting compact knitted gray cloth.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples.
Example 1
The dragon and phoenix woolen fabric is characterized in that the wool content is 3%, single-layer knitted grey cloth is subjected to a needling process, wool-containing yarns on the back are reversely needled to the front side of the grey cloth, and then the surface of the wool is finished, and the grey cloth is woven by three kinds of yarns on an 11-needle 34-inch double-faced circular knitting machine: the first yarn is acrylic yarn containing wool with the number of 13.5Ne/1, the content of wool in the acrylic yarn is 6wt%, the second yarn is polyester yarn with the fineness of 150D, the third yarn is polyester yarn with the fineness of 300D, the first yarn is shown on the back of the grey cloth, the third yarn is shown on the front of the grey cloth, the second yarn is used as connecting yarn of the first yarn and the third yarn and is positioned in the middle of the grey cloth, and the content of wool in the fabric is 3 wt%.
In this embodiment, the polyester yarns adopted by the third yarns are black polyester yarns, the second yarns are white polyester yarns, and the front surface of the grey cloth woven by the third black polyester yarns is black and serves as the ground color of the final fabric.
1) Weaving knitted grey cloth: the yarn is woven by adopting an 11-needle 34-inch double-sided circular knitting machine and three yarns: the grey cloth is a black grey cloth with double-sided knitting patterns.
2) Dyeing: sequentially carrying out deoiling, dyeing, softening and smoothing and dewatering, wherein the dyeing process only dyes the wool-containing acrylic yarn.
3) And (5) scutching and shaping.
4) And (3) needling: the method comprises the following steps of (1) enabling the wool acrylic yarn on the back to penetrate through the polyester layer on the front side from bottom to top to form a wool original layer on the surface of grey cloth, wherein the operation mode is as follows: continuously passing the grey cloth through 8-13 needle machines, wherein each needle machine is provided with a needle board, triangular needles with barbs are fully arranged on the needle boards, the barbs are formed on the corner edges, the needling frequency is 1050 times/min, and the running speed of the grey cloth is 3.8-4 m/min; the needling depth of each needling machine is reduced, the needling depth of the needling board on the first needling machine is 9-10 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the second needling machine is 8-10 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the third needling machine is 8mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the fourth needling machine is 7mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the fifth needling machine is 5-6 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the sixth needling machine is 5-6 mm, and the needling depth of the needling board on the seventh and later needling machines is 5 mm. And as a better way, the number of barbs of the needling needle with large needling depth is less than that of the needling needle with small needling depth.
5) And (4) tentering the needled grey cloth.
6) Decating, forming the woolen layer on the surface of the grey cloth.
In the embodiment, the gram weight of the dragon and phoenix woolen fabric is 650g/150cm, and the color is grayish.
Example 2
The dragon and phoenix woolen fabric has 6% of wool, and is formed by reversely needling wool-containing yarns on the back to the front side of single-layer knitted grey cloth through a needling process, and finishing the surface of the wool, wherein the grey cloth is woven by three kinds of yarns on an 11-needle 34-inch double-faced circular knitting machine: the first yarn is acrylic yarn containing wool with the number of 13.5Ne/1, the content of the wool in the acrylic yarn is 6wt%, the second yarn is polyester yarn with the fineness of 150D, the third yarn is polyester yarn with the fineness of 300D, the first yarn is shown on the back of the grey cloth, the third yarn is shown on the front of the grey cloth, the second yarn is used as connecting yarn of the first yarn and the third yarn and is positioned in the middle of the grey cloth, and the wool content of the fabric is 10 wt%.
The third yarn is colorless polyester yarn, the second yarn is colorless polyester yarn, the third colorless polyester yarn, and the grey cloth is soft and white. The specific fabric weaving process comprises the following steps:
1) weaving knitted grey cloth: the yarn is woven by adopting an 11-needle 34-inch double-sided circular knitting machine and three yarns: the grey cloth is a black grey cloth with double-sided knitting patterns.
2) Dyeing: sequentially carrying out deoiling, dyeing, softening and smoothing and dewatering, dyeing polyester yarns, and dyeing wool-containing acrylic yarns.
3) And (5) scutching and shaping.
4) And (3) needling: the method comprises the following steps of (1) enabling the wool acrylic yarn on the back to penetrate through the polyester layer on the front side from bottom to top to form a wool original layer on the surface of grey cloth, wherein the operation mode is as follows: continuously passing the grey cloth through 8-13 needle machines, wherein each needle machine is provided with a needle board, triangular needles with barbs are fully arranged on the needle boards, the barbs are formed on the corner edges, the needling frequency is 1050 times/min, and the running speed of the grey cloth is 3.8-4 m/min; the needling depth of each needling machine is reduced, the needling depth of the needling board on the first needling machine is 9-10 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the second needling machine is 8-10 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the third needling machine is 8mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the fourth needling machine is 7mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the fifth needling machine is 5-6 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the sixth needling machine is 5-6 mm, and the needling depth of the needling board on the seventh and later needling machines is 5 mm. And as a better way, the number of barbs of the needling needle with large needling depth is less than that of the needling needle with small needling depth.
5) And (4) tentering the needled grey cloth.
6) Decating, forming the woolen layer on the surface of the grey cloth, wherein the thickness of the woolen layer is about twice of that of the knitted fabric.
In the embodiment, the gram weight of the dragon and phoenix woolen fabric is 650g/150cm, and the color is a design color formed by naturally blending the first color and the second color.
In addition to the above embodiments, the present invention also includes other embodiments, and any technical solutions formed by equivalent transformation or equivalent replacement should fall within the scope of the claims of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. The utility model provides a two-sided knitting have shuttle visual effect, light weight, elasticity longfeng woolen cloth surface fabric which characterized in that: the method is characterized in that double-faced knitted grey cloth is subjected to a needling process, wool-containing yarns on the back face are reversely needled to the front face of the grey cloth, and then the surface of woolen cloth is finished, wherein the grey cloth is woven by three types of yarns on an 11-needle 34-inch double-faced circular knitting machine: the first yarn is acrylic yarn containing wool, the second yarn is polyester yarn, the third yarn is polyester yarn, the first yarn is shown on the back of the grey cloth, the third yarn is shown on the front of the grey cloth, the second yarn is used as connecting yarn of the first yarn and the third yarn and is positioned in the middle of the grey cloth, and the wool content of the fabric is 3-6 wt%.
2. A double knit, lightweight, elastic tweed fabric with a tatting visual effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: the third yarn adopts colored polyester yarns, the second yarn adopts colorless polyester yarns or colored polyester yarns, the color of the third yarn is used as the ground color of the fabric, the dyed acrylic fibers containing wool are needled to the front surface of the fabric, and the actual mixed color of the fabric is formed under the background of the ground color of the polyester on the front surface or mixed with the ground color.
3. A double knit, lightweight, elastic tweed fabric with a tatting visual effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: the number of the first yarn is 13.5Ne/1, the fineness of the second yarn is 150D, and the fineness of the third yarn is 300D.
4. A double knit, lightweight, elastic tweed fabric with a tatting visual effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: the content of wool in the acrylic yarn is 6-10 wt%.
5. A weaving method of a double-sided knitted and woven fabric with a visual effect, light weight and elasticity is characterized in that: the process comprises the following steps
1) Weaving knitted grey cloth: the yarn is woven by adopting an 11-needle 34-inch double-sided circular knitting machine and three yarns: the first yarn is acrylic yarn containing wool, the second yarn is polyester yarn, the third yarn is polyester yarn, the first yarn is shown on the back surface of the grey cloth, the third yarn is shown on the front surface of the grey cloth, the second yarn is used as connecting yarn of the first yarn and the third yarn and is positioned in the middle of the grey cloth, the wool content of the fabric is 3-6wt%, and the grey cloth is double-sided knitted grey cloth;
2) dyeing: for non-yarn-dyed grey cloth, sequentially carrying out deoiling, dyeing, softening and smoothing and dewatering, wherein polyester yarns are dyed in the dyeing process, and then wool-containing polyester yarns are dyed; for grey cloth dyed by polyester yarn, only the wool acrylic yarn needs to be dyed;
3) scutching and shaping;
4) and (3) needling: the method comprises the following steps of (1) enabling the wool acrylic yarn on the back to penetrate through the polyester layer on the front side from bottom to top to form a wool original layer on the surface of grey cloth, wherein the operation mode is as follows: continuously passing the grey cloth through 8-13 needle machines, wherein each needle machine is provided with a needle board, triangular needles with barbs are fully arranged on the needle boards, the barbs are formed on the corner edges, the needling frequency is 1050 times/min, and the running speed of the grey cloth is 3.8-4 m/min; the needling depth of each needling machine is reduced, and the barbs of the needling needles with large needling depth are less than those of the needling needles with small needling depth;
5) tentering the needled grey cloth;
6) decating to form a woolen layer on the surface of the grey cloth.
6. The method for weaving a double-sided knitted lightweight elastic tweed fabric with a tatting visual effect according to claim 5, characterized in that: in the needling step, the needling depth of the needling board on the first needling machine is 9-10 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the second needling machine is 8-10 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the third needling machine is 8mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the fourth needling machine is 7mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the fifth needling machine is 5-6 mm, the needling depth of the needling board on the sixth needling machine is 5-6 mm, and the needling depth of the needling board on the seventh and subsequent needling machines is 5 mm.
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| CN110714266A (en) * | 2019-10-31 | 2020-01-21 | 江苏新凯盛企业发展有限公司 | Needle-punched gigging fabric and needle-punching process method thereof |
| CN112725980A (en) * | 2020-12-18 | 2021-04-30 | 常州均悦纺织科技有限公司 | Production method of thin type burred cloth and thin type burred cloth manufactured by production method |
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| CN107964725A (en) | 2018-04-27 |
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