CN107137241A - 一种微乳液喷雾及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种微乳液喷雾及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种微乳液喷雾,按重量份计,包括如下组分:油性成分 1份;乳化剂0.25分PEG 30‑80mol非离子活性剂0.75‑0.80份;喷雾基料99‑110份。本发明通过乳化剂、PEG 30‑80mol非离子活性剂作为油性成分的增溶剂,能够将油性成分分散并增溶至半透明微乳液,从而使得制备得到的微乳液喷雾具有与传统喷雾不一样的透明外观且非常稳定,使其对皮肤具有很好的保湿、补充油分,增加皮肤锁水保湿效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品领域,特别涉及一种微乳液喷雾及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着社会的进步、人民生活水平的不断提高,化妆品逐渐从奢侈品变为人们生活的必需品,近年来在众多化妆品中透明喷雾产品越来越受到消费者的青睐。其中透明喷雾是化妆水中占有较大比例的产品。
通常喷雾中添加油性成分,但是不能做半透明状态且不稳定。现有喷雾主要有两种,一类是透明,一类是乳白色。透明喷雾存在保湿性不足的缺点,乳白色喷雾是低粘的乳液而非喷雾水。如果要将油性成分的香精增溶至透明,一般采用PEG-60 氢化蓖麻油、聚山梨醇酯-20等HLB值大的非离子表面活性剂将其增溶至透明,用量是油性成分即香精的2-5倍。但是这种方法仍然不能将PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、聚甘油-10 异硬脂酸酯、北方海带(LAMINARIA HYPERBOREA)提取物等多种油性成分增溶至半透明且稳定性高。
因此开发一种将上述将PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、聚甘油-10 异硬脂酸酯、北方海带(LAMINARIA HYPERBOREA)提取物等多种油性成分通过乳化剂和PEG30-80mol非离子活性剂增溶至透明,从而使得制备得到的半透明微乳液喷雾具有与喷雾不一样的外观,且可将上述油性成分增容半透明状态且稳定高,使其对皮肤具有很好的保湿、补充油分,增加皮肤锁水保湿效果的微乳液喷雾具有重要意义。
发明内容
本发明旨在给出一种能够将油性成分分散并增溶至微乳液半透明溶解,具有与传统喷雾不一样的外观;且可将上述油性成分增容半透明状态且稳定高,对皮肤具有很好的保湿、补充油分,增加皮肤锁水保湿效果的微乳液喷雾。
本发明所述的微乳液喷雾,按重量份计,包括如下组分:
油性成分 1份;
乳化剂 0.25分
PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂 0.75-0.80份;
喷雾基料 99-110份。
所述微乳液喷雾的透光率为40%-60%。所述透光率的测试方法:样品配制:取所述微乳液喷雾,加入50mL去离子水,再加入50mL1,3-丁二醇,混合均匀,得到微乳液喷雾混合物,备用;试验方法:取微乳液喷雾混合物,置于 40 ℃存放 1个月、室温25℃存放1个月、低温5℃存放1个月,恢复至室温后观察外观透明度。所述乳液喷雾半透明稳定性需要保证测得的透光率为40%-60%范围内才是所需的微乳液喷雾半透明状态;测得的透光率过高或过低均不符合要求。
其中,所述油性成分选自PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、聚甘油-10异硬脂酸酯、北方海带(LAMINARIA HYPERBOREA)提取物中的一种或几种。
其中,所述乳化剂选自聚甘油-10 异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-10 油酸酯、聚甘油-10 二油酸酯、聚甘油-10 硬脂酸酯中的一种或几种。
其中,所述PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂选自PEG-30氢化蓖麻油、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、PEG-80氢化蓖麻油、PEG-60 氢化蓖麻油月桂酸酯、PEG-35氢化蓖麻油、PEG-45氢化蓖麻油、PEG-50氢化蓖麻油、PEG-54氢化蓖麻油、PEG-55氢化蓖麻油、PEG-30氢化蓖麻油异硬脂酸酯、PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油异硬脂酸酯、PEG-50 氢化蓖麻油异硬脂酸酯、PEG-58氢化蓖麻油异硬脂酸酯、PEG-30 氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯、PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯、PEG-50 氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯、PEG-60 氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯中的一种或几种。
本发明所述喷雾基料,可以包括如下组分:
水84-88重量份、甘油3-5重量份、甜菜碱1-2重量份、1,3-丙二醇2-4重量份、尿囊素0.001-0.002重量份、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26 0.05-0.15重量份、聚甘油-10 异硬脂酸酯0.03-0.07重量份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.15-0.2重量份、PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油0.001-0.003重量份、马齿苋提取物0.03-0.07重量份、β-葡聚糖0.3-0.7重量份、水解蜂王浆蛋白0.1-0.3重量份、薄荷醇乳酸酯0.2-0.3重量份、糖类同分异构体0.03-0.07重量份、烟酰胺1-3重量份、PCA 椰油酰精氨酸乙酯盐0.05-0.08重量份、辛酰羟肟酸0.1-0.4重量份、孔雀石提取物0.0001-0.0003重量份、苯甲地那铵0.0001-0.0003重量份、甲基二异丙基丙酰胺0.003-0.007重量份、矿盐类0.001-0.003重量份、高山火绒草(LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM)愈伤组织提取物0.001-0.003重量份、南极洲丛梗藻(DURVILLEA ANTARTICA)提取物0.001-0.003重量份、肥皂草(SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS)提取物0.001-0.003重量份、藻提取物0.001-0.003重量份。
本申请人经过多年的研究发现:由于油性成分为无极性或极性低的油脂,而微乳液喷雾基料中的水的极性最高,本发明以油性成分、乳化剂、PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂的极性为研发点,通过添加乳化剂(末端带多OH聚合基团、极性高)和PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂(PEG高mol非离子活性剂,极性较高)作为油性成分的增溶剂,使得无极性或极性低的油性成分在使水和油之间有个中间极性连接者,从而实现将油性成分分散并增溶至半透明溶解,且稳定性高且能达到补充油分、高保湿的效果。
此外,本发明还公开了一种上述微乳液喷雾的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
1)取水、甘油、甜菜碱、1,3-丙二醇、尿囊素加入水相锅,加热至70-75℃后,搅拌均匀,抽入真空乳化机中;
2)取油性成分、乳化剂、PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂,加入油相锅,加热至60-65℃,搅拌均匀,抽入真空乳化机中;
3)开启真空乳化机,以800-1200 rpm/分的转速搅拌20-40分钟后,停止搅拌,降温至35-45℃;加入马齿苋提取物、β-葡聚糖、水解蜂王浆蛋白、薄荷醇乳酸酯、糖类同分异构体、烟酰胺、PCA 椰油酰精氨酸乙酯盐、辛酰羟肟酸、孔雀石提取物、苯甲地那铵、甲基二异丙基丙酰胺、矿盐类、高山火绒草(LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM)愈伤组织提取物、南极洲丛梗藻(DURVILLEA ANTARTICA)提取物、肥皂草(SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS)提取物、藻提取物,继续搅拌均匀,冷却至室温;灌装,即得微乳液喷雾。
与现有技术相比,本发明具有如下有益效果:
本发明通过乳化剂、PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂作为油性成分的增溶剂,能够将油性成分分散并增溶至半透明溶解,具有与传统喷雾不一样的外观;且可将上述油性成分增容半透明状态且稳定高,对皮肤具有很好的保湿、补充油分,增加皮肤锁水保湿效果的微乳液喷雾。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施方式来进一步说明本发明,以下实施例为本发明较佳的实施方式,但本发明的实施方式并不受下述实施例的限制。
本发明的实施例及对比例采用如表1所示的原料,但不仅限于这些原料:
表1
原料名称 | 生产厂家 | 国别 | 批号 | |
油性成分 | 辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯 | 禾大 | 美国 | 60325 |
乳化剂 | 聚甘油-10 异硬脂酸酯 | 日光 | 日本 | B160612 |
PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂 | PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油 | 巴斯夫 | 德国 | L150634 |
各性能指标的测试方法:
微乳液喷雾半透明稳定性的测试方法:样品配制:取所述微乳液喷雾,加入50mL去离子水,再加入50mL1,3-丁二醇,混合均匀,得到微乳液喷雾混合物,备用;试验方法:取微乳液喷雾混合物,置于 40 ℃存放 1个月、室温25℃存放1个月、低温5℃存放1个月,恢复至室温后观察外观透明度。
外观透光率测试方法,采用紫外可见分光光度计UV1000。(上海天美科学仪器有限公司 紫外可见分光光度计UV1000)
保湿效果的测试方法:
保湿使用仪器:
1.皮肤水分测试探头(Corneometer CM825):
原理是:采用电容法测定人体皮肤角质层的水分含量是基于水和其他物质的介电常数差异显著(水分的介电常数远大于其它成分的介电常数,水分含量的变化势必引起电容量变化的原理),皮肤角质层水分含量的变化,可测得皮肤的电容值。
2.皮肤水分流失测试探头(Tewameter TM300):
原理是:来源于Fick菲克扩散定律:
dm/dt=-D·A·dp/dx
式中:A——面积(m2) M——水分的扩散量(g)
T——时间(h) D——扩散常数(0.0877g/m.g.mmHg)
P——蒸汽压力(mmHg) X——皮肤表面测量点的距离(m)
测量探头是由两组温度和湿度传感器所组成,探头参数如下:
圆柱体直径φ=10mm 圆柱体高度H=20mm
测量探头的形状和大小可以防止空气流动对测量数据的影响,探头可以进行校准。
分析天平(精度0.1mg),干面纸巾,乳胶手套,注射器或移液器。
测试环境
环境温度20 oC-22oC,湿度40%-60%,并进行实时动态监测。
4.测试区域
手臂内侧部位。
使用方法
受试部位测试前2天不能使用任何产品(化妆品或外用药品),1h不能接触水。测试前,受试者测试区域统一用干的面巾纸檫试干净。
受试者测试区域应做好测量区域标记,试验区域面积为3*3cm,同一手臂可同时标记多个区域,每个测试区域之间的间隔大于1cm。
测试样品按(2.0±0.1)mg/cm2的用量进行单次涂布,用乳胶手套将样品均匀涂布于实验区,并记录实际涂样量。
同一个受试者不同区域样品的涂抹由同一个涂抹人员进行涂抹,用同一仪器由同一个测试人员测试,两次测试之间应清洁测试探头。
测试前在恒温恒湿的环境休息30min后,不能喝水和饮食,测试区域不能有所遮盖,呈测试状态放置,保持放松。
进行产品区域和对照区域的测量,每个区域平行测定3次。
6. 评价产品在使用前后T0min,T30min,T1h,T2h,T4h,T8h,皮肤的水份的变化量。
实施例1-4及对比例1-5:微乳液喷雾的制备
首先将一部分微乳液喷雾基料(取水88.2475g、甘油4.0g、甜菜碱1.50g、1,3-丙二醇3.00g、尿囊素0.0002g)加入水相锅,加热至70-75℃后,搅拌均匀,抽入真空乳化机中;然后按照表1的配比加入油性成分、乳化剂、PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂,加入油相锅,加热至60-65℃,搅拌均匀,抽入真空乳化机中;然后开启真空乳化机,以1000 rpm/分的转速搅拌30分钟后,停止搅拌,降温至40℃;加入剩余的微乳液喷雾基料(马齿苋提取物0.05g、β-葡聚糖0.5g、水解蜂王浆蛋白0.1g、薄荷醇乳酸酯0.0001g、糖类同分异构体0.05g、烟酰胺2.0g、PCA 椰油酰精氨酸乙酯盐0.07g、辛酰羟肟酸0.25g、孔雀石提取物0.0001g、苯甲地那铵0.00002g、甲基二异丙基丙酰胺0.007g、矿盐类0.001g、高山火绒草(LEONTOPODIUMALPINUM)愈伤组织提取物0.001g、南极洲丛梗藻(DURVILLEA ANTARTICA)提取物0.001g、肥皂草(SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS)提取物0.001g、藻提取物0.001g),继续搅拌均匀,冷却至室温;灌装,即得微乳液喷雾;所得微乳液喷雾的外观透明度稳定性、透光率等性能指标如表1所示。
表1 实施例1-4及对比例1-4的各组分配比(g)及各性能指标测试结果
续表1
Claims (7)
1.一种微乳液喷雾,其特征在于,按重量份计,包括如下组分:
油性成分 1份;
乳化剂 0.25分
PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂 0.75-0.80份;
喷雾基料 99-110份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的微乳液喷雾,其特征在于,所述微乳液喷雾的透光率为40%-60%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的微乳液喷雾,其特征在于,所述油性成分选自PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、聚甘油-10 异硬脂酸酯、北方海带(LAMINARIA HYPERBOREA)提取物中的一种或几种。
4.根据权利要求1所述的微乳液喷雾,其特征在于,所述乳化剂选自聚甘油-10 异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-10 油酸酯、聚甘油-10 二油酸酯、聚甘油-10 硬脂酸酯中的一种或几种。
5.根据权利要求1所述的微乳液喷雾,其特征在于,所述PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂选自PEG-30氢化蓖麻油、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、PEG-80氢化蓖麻油、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油月桂酸酯、PEG-35氢化蓖麻油、PEG-45氢化蓖麻油、PEG-50氢化蓖麻油、PEG-54氢化蓖麻油、PEG-55氢化蓖麻油、PEG-30 氢化蓖麻油异硬脂酸酯、PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油异硬脂酸酯、PEG-50 氢化蓖麻油异硬脂酸酯、PEG-58氢化蓖麻油异硬脂酸酯、PEG-30 氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯、PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯、PEG-50 氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯、PEG-60 氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯中的一种或几种。
6.根据权利要求1所述的微乳液喷雾,其特征在于,所述微乳液喷雾基料包括水84-88重量份、甘油3-5重量份、甜菜碱1-2重量份、1,3-丙二醇2-4重量份、尿囊素0.001-0.002重量份、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26 0.05-0.15重量份、聚甘油-10 异硬脂酸酯0.03-0.07重量份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯0.15-0.2重量份、PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油0.001-0.003重量份、马齿苋提取物0.03-0.07重量份、β-葡聚糖0.3-0.7重量份、水解蜂王浆蛋白0.1-0.3重量份、薄荷醇乳酸酯0.2-0.3重量份、糖类同分异构体0.03-0.07重量份、烟酰胺1-3重量份、PCA 椰油酰精氨酸乙酯盐0.05-0.08重量份、辛酰羟肟酸0.1-0.4重量份、孔雀石提取物0.0001-0.0003重量份、苯甲地那铵0.0001-0.0003重量份、甲基二异丙基丙酰胺0.003-0.007重量份、矿盐类0.001-0.003重量份、高山火绒草(LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM)愈伤组织提取物0.001-0.003重量份、南极洲丛梗藻(DURVILLEA ANTARTICA)提取物0.001-0.003重量份、肥皂草(SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS)提取物0.001-0.003重量份、藻提取物0.001-0.003重量份。
7.一种如权利要求1-6任一项所述的微乳液喷雾的制备方法,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:
1)取水、甘油、甜菜碱、1,3-丙二醇、尿囊素加入水相锅,加热至70-75℃后,搅拌均匀,抽入真空乳化机中;
2)取油性成分、乳化剂、PEG 30-80mol非离子活性剂,加入油相锅,加热至60-65℃,搅拌均匀,抽入真空乳化机中;
3)开启真空乳化机,以800-1200 rpm/分的转速搅拌20-40分钟后,停止搅拌,降温至35-45℃;加入马齿苋提取物、β-葡聚糖、水解蜂王浆蛋白、薄荷醇乳酸酯、糖类同分异构体、烟酰胺、PCA 椰油酰精氨酸乙酯盐、辛酰羟肟酸、孔雀石提取物、苯甲地那铵、甲基二异丙基丙酰胺、矿盐类、高山火绒草(LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM)愈伤组织提取物、南极洲丛梗藻(DURVILLEA ANTARTICA)提取物、肥皂草(SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS)提取物、藻提取物,继续搅拌均匀,冷却至室温;灌装,即得微乳液喷雾。
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