CN106883287B

CN106883287B - Skin beautifying method and beautifying instrument and cream used therein

Info

Publication number: CN106883287B
Application number: CN201710236225.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 仓勇
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2017-04-12
Filing date: 2017-04-12
Publication date: 2020-10-27
Anticipated expiration: 2037-04-12
Also published as: CN106883287A

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for skin beauty by adopting biochemistry and beauty cream used in the method. The method comprises the use of a cosmetic cream centered on a specific collagenase inhibitor which is better able to maintain the collagen in the skin at a high level than the collagenase inhibitors disclosed in the prior art, thus achieving the long-term effects of facial skin wrinkle removal, elasticity enhancement, and elimination of under-eye bags and dark under-eye circles.

Description

Skin beautifying method and beautifying instrument and cream used therein

Technical Field

The present invention relates to the field of biotechnology, and more particularly, to a method of skin beauty and a beauty instrument and a beauty cream used therein.

Background

Collagen is called "bone in bone, skin in skin, meat in meat", and is said to be a powerful hind shield of the dermis layer, whose action on the skin is self-evident. 70% of skin components are composed of collagen, the skin is tightly wrapped around the body as a large sleeve, the surface area is quite large, and when the limbs of a human body move, the collagen in the skin plays a role, so that the skin has a protection function and has proper elasticity and hardness. Higher levels of collagen can make the skin more elastic and less wrinkled, a target sought by each woman. But with age, collagen in the body, especially in the skin, decreases dramatically. It has been found that various external factors including ultraviolet rays, air pollution, diet, radiation, etc. may affect the collagen content, and the factors may destroy collagen by activating collagenase to reduce the collagen content, thereby increasing the number of wrinkles. In order to maintain collagen at a high level for cosmetic wrinkle removal, it is necessary to inhibit the activation of collagenase by external factors. By using a specific inhibitor of collagenase, it is possible to specifically inhibit the activity of collagenase in the skin, maintain a high level of collagen in the body, particularly in the skin, and thus achieve cosmetic wrinkle removal.

A combined photophysical and biochemical skin cosmetic method has been disclosed in prior art CN 1618480A. The method utilizes low-energy light wave with specific wavelength, and when released according to specific procedures, the low-energy light wave can penetrate the epidermal layer of facial skin, activate the fiber cells of the dermal layer to produce collagen, and promote the removal of metabolic residual substances. At the same time, the disrupted metabolic balance induces natural repair mechanisms in the skin, making the photoactivated results untenable. For this reason, CN1618480A also includes a kind of external application products with liposoluble collagenase inhibitor as core, which can be used in synchronization with the above optical instrument to maintain the collagen in the skin at high level, thereby achieving the long-term effects of removing wrinkles, enhancing elasticity and eliminating under-eye puffiness and dark circles on the facial skin. Specifically, the collagenase inhibitor is an OL-1 peptide having the structure: Benzoyl-Pro-D-Leu-D-Ala-NHOH.

Prior art CN102076706A also discloses a similar peptide:

X.sup.1-X.sup.2-X.sup.3-NHOH；

wherein x.sup.1 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-or D-form amino acids: proline, hydroxyproline, thioproline and alanine; x.sup.2 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-or D-form amino acids: glutamine, glutamic acid, leucine, isoleucine, and phenylalanine; and x.sup.3 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-or D-form amino acids: glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, and sarcosine; wherein the carboxyl group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.1 forms a peptide bond with the amino group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.2, the carboxyl group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.2 forms a peptide bond with the amino group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.3, and the carboxyl group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.3 forms an amide group with-NHOH; the hydrogen atom of the amino group of the α -amino acid x.sup.1 may be substituted with a substituent selected from the group consisting of: acetyl, benzoyl, benzyloxy, t-butoxycarbonyl, benzyloxycarbonyl, p-aminobenzoyl, p-amino-benzyl and p-hydroxybenzoyl; or a pharmaceutically acceptable salt thereof. Further disclosed is a specific peptide: benzoyl-proline-D-leucine-D-alanine-NHOH.

Through subsequent researches, the external application product taking the fat-soluble collagenase inhibitor as the core has poor effect of beautifying and removing wrinkles when being used alone. In order to develop a skin beautifying method capable of achieving a beautifying wrinkle-removing effect by using it alone, and a beautifying apparatus and a beautifying cream used therein, the applicant conducted a great deal of experiments and finally found a novel collagenase inhibitor and a beautifying cream based thereon, which can maintain a high level of collagen for a long period of time when applied to the skin, thereby achieving a beautifying wrinkle-removing effect.

Disclosure of Invention

The present invention relates to a peptide having a structure which is superior to the prior art in the effect of removing wrinkles by beauty when used alone. The structure of the peptide is as follows:

X.sup.1-X.sup.2-X.sup.3-X.sup.4-X.sup.5-NHOH

wherein x.sup.1 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-or D-form amino acids: proline, hydroxyproline, thioproline and alanine;

x.sup.2 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-or D-form amino acids: glutamine, glutamic acid, leucine, isoleucine, and phenylalanine;

x.sup.3 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-or D-form amino acids: glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, and threonine;

x.sup.4 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-or D-form amino acids: threonine and serine;

x.sup.5 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-or D-form amino acids: valine, proline and leucine;

wherein the carboxyl group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.1 forms a peptide bond with the amino group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.2, the carboxyl group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.2 forms a peptide bond with the amino group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.3, the carboxyl group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.3 forms a peptide bond with the amino group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.4, the carboxyl group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.4 forms a peptide bond with the amino group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.5, and the carboxyl group of the alpha-amino acid X.sup.5 forms an amide group with-NHOH; the hydrogen atom of the amino group of the α -amino acid x.sup.1 may be substituted with a substituent selected from the group consisting of: acetyl, benzoyl, benzyloxy, t-butoxycarbonyl, benzyloxycarbonyl, p-aminobenzoyl, p-amino-benzyl and p-hydroxybenzoyl; or a pharmaceutically acceptable salt thereof.

Further wherein x.sup.1 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: proline and alanine.

Further wherein x.sup.1 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: proline.

Further wherein x.sup.2 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: leucine and isoleucine.

Further wherein x.sup.2 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: leucine, or a pharmaceutically acceptable salt thereof.

Further wherein x.sup.3 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: glycine and alanine.

Further wherein x.sup.3 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: alanine.

Further wherein x.sup.4 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: threonine and serine.

Further wherein x.sup.4 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: threonine.

Further wherein x.sup.5 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: valine, proline and leucine.

Further wherein x.sup.5 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: valine and proline.

Further wherein x.sup.5 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of the following L-form or D-form amino acids: valine.

Further wherein the peptide is Benzoyl-Pro-D-Leu-D-Ala-Thr-Val-NHOH.

The present invention further relates to a cosmetic cream containing any of the above peptides and an additive useful for cosmetics.

Further wherein the peptide is Benzoyl-Pro-D-Leu-D-Ala-Thr-Val-NHOH.

The invention further relates to a cosmetic method of the skin comprising the application of any of the cosmetic creams described above to the skin area to be treated.

The peptides of the invention have the following differences with respect to the peptides of the prior art, such as CN1618480A, CN 102076706A:

(1) the peptide of the invention is X.sup.1-X.sup.2-X.sup.3-X.sup.4-X.sup.5-NHOH, the peptide of CN1618480A is Benzoyl-Pro-D-Leu-D-Ala-NHOH, the peptide of CN102076706A is X.sup.1-X.sup.2-X.sup.3-NHOH, and the length of the peptide of the invention is different from that of the prior art.

(2) Based on the prior art, a great number of experiments show that the cosmetic effect is obviously enhanced after the insertion of two amino acid residues, and the cosmetic wrinkle-removing effect can be maintained for a long time.

In particular, in order to improve the cosmetic effect, the applicant has carried out a large number of tests on the prior art, such as: changing the kind of amino acid residues without any improvement in cosmetic effect; increasing the number of amino acid residues increases the length of the peptide, but it was found that a simple increase in the length of the peptide, e.g. 7 amino acid residues, only gives a good result when 5 amino acid residues are included. On the basis of this, the applicant tried to change the kind of the partial amino acid residues, and found that the optimum cosmetic effect could be obtained only when x.sup.4 is a polar amino acid residue and x.sup.5 is a nonpolar amino acid residue, and the specific reason was not known.

Drawings

FIG. 1: the beauty cream stimulates fibroblasts to synthesize collagen. Wherein, the content of actin (actin) is used as a sample loading control of total protein. Left column: a control group; middle column: the group using Benzoyl-Pro-D-Leu-D-Ala-D-Ala-Thr-NHOH (No. 8); right column: the group using Benzoyl-Pro-D-Leu-D-Ala-Thr-Val-NHOH (accession number 9). The upper diagram: collagen protein; the following figures: actin.

Detailed Description

The present invention is illustrated in detail below by means of some examples.

Example (b): skin-beautifying wrinkle-removing test of beauty cream

Application method of beauty cream

Carefully rinsing the skin around the eyes, especially the canthus, with warm water;

uniformly applying a thin layer of the cosmetic cream of the present invention and the cosmetic cream of the control group to the skin around the eyes, particularly the canthus, with fingers;

each subject was treated 1 time per day for 12 weeks;

professional cosmetologists and therapists independently record efficacy once per week;

the cosmetologist recorded the changes in the canthus wrinkles for each treatment with the camera shots we provided;

after the treatment is finished, the treatment effectiveness is counted; for any one tester, we considered the change in the index to be valid only if the tester's own assessment agrees with the professional cosmetologist's assessment.

Second, test results

Women who had wrinkles in the canthus or had skin conditions on the eyes of 20-55 years old who needed improvement (including under-eye bags, dark circles, etc.) were recruited and divided into groups of at least 5 persons each, and the cosmetic effects of the different peptides were tested, with the following results:

TABLE 1 cosmetic Effect of different peptides

^aThe total score is 10 points, and the higher the score is, the better the cosmetic effect is shown, see CN1618480A and CN102076706A for a specific evaluation mode.

As can be seen from table 1, in the case of keeping the number of amino acid residues constant, only the kind of amino acid residues was changed, and the score was maintained between 4 and 5, and any improvement in the cosmetic effect was not obtained. The number of amino acid residues was gradually increased to 7 amino acid residues, and it was found that the score was significantly higher when 5 amino acid residues were included than when the number of other amino acid residues was included. On the basis of this, the applicant tried to change the kind of the partial amino acid residues while keeping the number of the amino acid residues to 5, and as a result, it was found that, although the score of the combination of other amino acid residues was between 6.5 and 7.7, the cosmetic wrinkle-removing effect was superior to that of the other amino acid residues in number, the best cosmetic effect was obtained as the score was as high as 9.5 when x.sup.4 was the residue of the polar amino acid Thr and x.sup.5 was the residue of the nonpolar amino acid Val.

Third, collagen content detection

To further verify whether the improvement of the cosmetic effect is related to the increase of the collagen content, the collagen content in the control group and the two groups (peptides are Benzoyl-Pro-D-Leu-D-Ala-Thr-NHOH (No. 8) and Benzoyl-Pro-D-Leu-D-Ala-Thr-Val-NHOH (No. 9), respectively) having the most excellent effects among the above test results were tested, and the specific test methods can be referred to the prior art such as CN 1618480A. As a result of the test, it was found that the peptides No. 8 and No. 9 significantly increased the collagen content in the skin, and the peptide No. 9 had a more significant effect of increasing collagen content, as shown in fig. 1, compared to the control group. The detection result further proves that the peptide with the number 9 can inhibit the activity of collagenase in the skin, so that the content of collagen is increased, and the optimal effect of beautifying and removing wrinkles is realized.

It follows that, although the peptide of the invention has only 2 amino acid residues inserted on the basis of the prior art, the applicant has unexpectedly found that the best cosmetic effect is obtained when X.sup.4 is the residue of the polar amino acid Thr and X.sup.5 is the residue of the apolar amino acid Val, contrary to the prior art.

The embodiments described above are intended to be merely exemplary, and those skilled in the art will recognize, or be able to ascertain using no more than routine experimentation, numerous equivalents. All such equivalents are considered to be within the scope of the claimed subject matter and are encompassed by the following claims. Since modifications will be apparent to those skilled in the art, it is intended that the claimed subject matter be limited only by the scope of the appended claims.

Claims

1. A peptide having the structure wherein said peptide is Benzoyl-Pro-D-Leu-D-Ala-Thr-Val-NHOH.

2. A cosmetic cream comprising the peptide of claim 1 and an additive useful for cosmetics.

3. A non-disease therapeutic and diagnostic skin cosmetic method comprising applying the cosmetic cream of claim 2 to a skin site to be treated.