CN107213066B - Beauty cream additive, beauty cream prepared by using additive and application of beauty cream - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a beauty cream additive, beauty cream prepared by using the additive and application of the beauty cream additive. The cosmetic cream additive contains avocado fruit extract prepared by a specific method and additive for cosmetics. The test proves that the beauty cream additive can better promote the generation of collagen compared with the avocado fruit extract prepared by other methods. In addition, the cosmetic cream additive can be used for a long time, and is safe and free of side effects.

Description

Beauty cream additive, beauty cream prepared by using additive and application of beauty cream

Technical Field

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. In particular to a cosmetic cream additive for promoting collagen generation, a cosmetic cream prepared by using the same and application.

Background

Human aging is irreversible, and the appearance of facial skin wrinkles, particularly crow's feet, is often the first extrinsic marker of aging; many environmental factors such as solar uv rays can significantly worsen the density and depth of skin wrinkles. Modern cosmetic approaches are aimed at reducing the myriad manifestations of aging, particularly facial skin wrinkles, with the ultimate goal of producing new collagen through the regulation of fibroblasts in the dermal layers of the skin. Collagen is the most predominant structural protein in the skin and accounts for over 75% of the dry weight of the dermis. Modern molecular dermatology studies have shown that the wrinkle, elasticity, texture, luster, etc. of the skin are determined to a large extent by the level of collagen; with the increase of age or skin aging, the content of collagen in the skin of people gradually decreases. Therefore, how much collagen production is promoted is the most important index for measuring the effectiveness of many cosmetic means.

Currently these cosmetic approaches can be broadly classified into both bioactivation and physical therapy. Among these, the chemical method of applying creams containing biological activities, mainly comprising vitamins a, C, E and their derivatives, cartilage polysaccharides, a-and b-hydroxy acids and other antioxidants, directly to the skin surface occupies the mainstream mass market; physical means are commonly used in professional beauty parlors or clinics, and mainly comprise mechanical skin grinding, silica gel skin peeling and increasingly popular laser surgery wrinkle removal. In addition, injection of purified collagen or botulinum toxin (Botox) directly into skin with dense wrinkles is two extreme wrinkle removal means, however these injections often accompany headaches, dizziness, ocular sinking and possible cardiovascular sequelae.

Laser light is used as a high-energy light source with unique coherence and monochromaticity, and is used for removing wrinkles of skin on the basis of the principle that the laser emits photons with high energy to cause thermal damage to cells in the deep layers of the skin or induce trauma directly in the epidermis layer to activate the wound repair function inherent in the skin, resulting in the generation of structural and regulatory proteins necessary for the repair of many wounds including collagen. although the generated collagen can improve the wrinkle condition of the skin, the high-energy laser light also destroys many normal cell tissues and releases considerable byproducts harmful to skin health, recently, a high-intensity pulsed light (IP L. g. 42) mainly with long wave (>550nm) is used instead of laser light to treat facial wrinkles.

The limitations of lasers for wrinkle removal are evident: laser devices are extremely expensive, require a large amount of energy to operate, and must be operated by medical professionals; the skin which can be irradiated by the laser beam at one time is very limited, which brings difficulty to the uniform wrinkle removal of the large-scale skin; the treatment causes damage to the skin tissue, the patient feels severe discomfort or pain, and a long time is required for recovery; traumatic laser surgery can also cause wound infection, leaving scars behind, not only for the cosmetic intended purpose, but can also leave permanent damage to the skin. The quality of wrinkle-removing effect depends greatly on the individual differences of the subjects, so that the laser treatment of wrinkles entails considerable risks for each person.

The use of LEDs in the medical field has not been gradually recognized until recently, although LEDs have been widely used in light emitting devices for various electronic components and daily and commercial lamps, their use has been recently used to treat cancer, the aerospace research group of NASA has found that direct irradiation of ischemic wounds with LEDs emitting near infrared Por (major wavelengths include 680nm,730nm,880nm) can greatly shorten the time required for wound healing (Journal of Clinical L as Medicine & Surgery 19: p305-314, 2001) they have placed several tens of monochromatic LEDs in a planar sequence, continue irradiation of wounds, so that each square centimeter of skin receives 4-8 joules of energy in 0.5-1 hour, these LEDs are used in synchronization with high pressure oxygen to achieve a few effects.

The led has been successfully used for human therapy, mainly because scientific research has found that the non-coherent monochromatic light emitted from the led can effectively penetrate the epidermis of the skin to reach the dermis and deeper layers of the body tissues. One report states that photons in the range of 630-800nm can enter the human skin up to 23 cm (p.552space technology and Applications International Forum 200, edited by M.S.El-Genk, 2001). Light entering the body diode stimulates energy factory mitochondria inside the cell, producing a large amount of energy, thereby accelerating various repair mechanisms, improving cellular activity and metabolism, and accelerating blood circulation, with the result that harmful substances and metabolic byproducts in the body are removed from injured or aged tissues, while promoting the generation of active substances to renew the tissues. The specific molecules of intracellular incident light energy are not clear, but scientists have found that some chromophore groups (Chromophores) and Cytochrome Systems (Cytochrome Systems) react to red and infrared light.

During the process of the monochromatic light of the diode penetrating the skin, the light energy is gradually absorbed and lost by various cell tissues. Most of the efficiently absorbed photons act on the fibroblasts in the dermis. Fibroblasts are the skin's dynamic machinery, producing various skin regulating components and major structural proteins such as collagen. In principle, the monochromatic light of the led not only promotes the fibroblasts to produce a large amount of ATP, an energy substance, but also, more importantly, can initiate collagen biosynthesis. Therefore, the use of monochromatic light from the led instead of laser light to promote collagen production in the skin and repair wrinkles is an innovative and challenging task. Compared with the laser surgery wrinkle removal, the LED wrinkle removal has many advantages: the energy is low, the beauty treatment purpose is achieved by exciting the potential of the fibroblast, and the skin is not damaged inside and outside; the laser is convenient and safe to use, the service life of a light source is far longer than that of a laser, the price is reasonable, and the laser is easy to popularize in families; more importantly, the light emitting diode can achieve the traditional laser beautifying wrinkle removing effect by selecting proper wavelength and output intensity and frequency with biological regulation effect.

The selection and correct combination of wavelength, intensity and frequency are critical in determining the effectiveness of the led de-wrinkling device. First, only light of a specific wavelength from the led can penetrate the epidermis layer to be absorbed by the fibroblasts to the maximum extent, and be converted into energy to stimulate the cells to produce collagen, while light of other wavelengths can reach the cells without effectively activating the photosensitive proteins in the cells. Secondly, only a narrow range of output intensities has a bio-regulatory effect: light waves with intensities below the biological activation threshold do not provide sufficient energy to initiate the repair mechanism of fibroblasts; while the light wave with too high intensity is mainly converted into heat energy in the skin, and the protection mechanism of fibroblasts is stimulated, and finally the synthesis of collagen is inhibited. Finally, the electromagnetic waves of the led's at frequencies within the skin that resonate only with the intrinsic biological frequencies of the fibroblasts are able to specifically transmit light energy to the fibroblasts and minimize the generation of unwanted and even harmful by-products from the activation of other cellular tissues.

Collagen is called "bone in bone, skin in skin, meat in meat", and is said to be a powerful hind shield of the dermis layer, whose action on the skin is self-evident. 70% of skin components are composed of collagen, the skin is tightly wrapped around the body as a large sleeve, the surface area is quite large, and when the limbs of a human body move, the collagen in the skin plays a role, so that the skin has a protection function and has proper elasticity and hardness. Higher levels of collagen can make the skin more elastic and less wrinkled, a target sought by each woman. But with age, collagen in the body, especially in the skin, is very much reduced. It has been found that various external factors including ultraviolet rays, air pollution, diet, radiation, etc. may affect the collagen content, and the factors may destroy collagen by activating collagenase to reduce the collagen content, thereby increasing the number of wrinkles. In order to maintain collagen at a high level for cosmetic wrinkle removal, it is necessary to inhibit the activation of collagenase by external factors. By using a specific inhibitor of collagenase, it is possible to specifically inhibit the activity of collagenase in the skin, maintain a high level of collagen in the body, particularly in the skin, and thus achieve cosmetic wrinkle removal.

CN1618480A has disclosed a skin cosmetic method combining photophysics and biochemistry, which utilizes low energy light waves of specific wavelengths, when delivered according to a specific procedure, to penetrate the epidermal layers of facial skin, activate fibroblasts in the dermal layers to produce collagen and promote the removal of metabolic residues, while the disrupted metabolic balance induces natural repair mechanisms in the skin, rendering the photoactivated results non-viable, and CN1618480A, to this end, contains a class of topical applications centered on lipid-soluble collagenase inhibitors, which, in conjunction with the above-mentioned optical instruments, maintain high levels of collagen in the skin, thereby achieving the effects of facial skin wrinkle removal, increased elasticity and elimination of bags and dark circles.

Prior art CN102076706A also discloses a similar peptide:

X.sup.1-X.sup.2-X.sup.3-NHOH；

wherein X.sup.1 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of L-type or D-type amino acids proline, hydroxyproline, thioproline and alanine, X.sup.2 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of L-type or D-type amino acids glutamine, glutamic acid, leucine, isoleucine and phenylalanine, and X.sup.3 is a residue of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of L-type or D-type amino acids glycine, alanine, valine, leucine and sarcosine, wherein the carboxyl group of α -amino acid X.sup.1 forms a peptide bond with the amino group of α -amino acid X.sup.2, the carboxyl group of α -amino acid X.sup.2 forms a peptide bond with the amino group of α -amino acid X.sup.3, and the carboxyl group of α -amino acid X.sup.3 forms an amide group with-NHOH, the hydrogen atom of the amino group of α -amino acid X.1 may be substituted with a substituent selected from the group consisting of acetyl, benzoyl, benzyloxycarbonyl, t-benzyloxycarbonyl, p-benzoylp-aminobenzoyl-p-proline and a pharmaceutically acceptable salt thereof.

CN105213230A discloses a method for promoting collagen regeneration based on invisible light and enzyme inhibitors, comprising the following steps: s1, washing the skin around the eyes with warm water, and uniformly smearing a layer of anti-wrinkle essence after drying, wherein the anti-wrinkle essence is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 3-9 parts of panthenol, 5-11 parts of arbutin, 3-6 parts of glycerol polyacrylate, 36-14 parts of acetyl hexapeptide, 3-5 parts of myristyl ether propionate, 1-6 parts of phenoxyethanol, 2-8 parts of methyl hydroxybenzoate, 3-5 parts of bovine serum albumin, 1-4 parts of oxybenzene isobutyl ester, 3-5 parts of wheat germ glyceride, 5-10 parts of components consisting of free activated stellate cells, activated stellate cell decomposers, MMP14, collagen treated by MMP14 and activated stellate cell secretions, 50-65 parts of distilled water and 5-10 parts of fat-soluble collagenase inhibitor; s2, adjusting an eye protection film inside the eye patch, then wearing the eye patch, opening the eye patch and selecting nursing time; the eye mask consists of 252 light emitting diodes with 660 nm wavelength, and emits invisible light with total energy output lower than 10 milliwatts per square centimeter according to a specific program and specific intensity; s3, after any key of 5 minutes, 10 minutes or 20 minutes is pressed, the corresponding blue lamp is turned on to enter a countdown working state; and S4, closing the eye cover after timing is finished, and stopping working.

The above prior arts all use a combination of light and collagenase inhibitor, and although the light is not harmful to human skin as a whole, in the actual use process, it is found that the long-term use of light irradiation still produces certain side effects, such as dry skin, slight tension, etc., and the frequency of use is not too high, which can aggravate the above side effects.

Therefore, the present inventors have found in another study a peptide which can achieve the effect of eliminating wrinkles and dark circles without using light. The structure of the peptide is as follows:

X.sup.1-X.sup.2-X.sup.3-X.sup.4-X.sup.5-NHOH。

x.sup.4 is a polar amino acid residue, and x.sup.5 is a nonpolar amino acid residue, and an optimal cosmetic effect can be obtained.

However, the collagen content of the skin itself is low, and in order to further improve the effect of a cosmetic cream containing the peptide, there is a need for a cosmetic cream additive which can maintain the collagen content in the skin at a higher level and achieve a better cosmetic effect.

Avocado, also known as avocado, butterscout, camphor, belongs to the family Lauraceae, avocado, evergreen arbor. Avocado fruit is a famous tropical fruit and is famous for being rich in nutrition and healthy. Modern researches show that the avocado fruit is rich in various vitamins, rich fatty acids and high-content elements such as sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium and the like. The avocado fruit has high cosmetic value, and can deeply preserve moisture, remove cutin, nourish hair, whiten skin and resist aging.

Up to now, various avocado fruit extracts have been disclosed for use in cosmetics. For example, CN1949985A discloses combining the fruit of avocado with an aqueous solution and enzymes under heat to provide a digested plant mixture. CN103347528A discloses avocado pulp and/or peel extract rich in polyphenols and cosmetic, dermatological and nutraceutical compositions containing it.

It is also known that shea butter fruit contains D-mannoheptulose, an inhibitor of hexokinase, which blocks the phosphorylation of glucose by competitively binding to hexokinase, with the result that the degradation of glucose is inhibited. In addition, D-mannoheptulose also promotes epidermal collagen (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2007: 29, 220). Also disclosed are various extracts containing D-mannoheptulose, methods for extracting the same, and uses of D-mannoheptulose (CN1968708A, CN1968707A, CN101711158A, CN105209046A, CN105439814A, CN105246351A, etc.).

However, the prior art does not disclose that extracting the avocado fruit by a specific method optimally maintains the collagen in the skin at a higher level, resulting in a better cosmetic effect.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to maintain a higher level of collagen in the skin and to obtain a better cosmetic effect, the inventors have found that a shea butter fruit extract obtained by a specific extraction method can best solve this problem.

The applicant has found that the avocado fruit extract of the present application can obtain the above-mentioned unexpected cosmetic effects through various screens of extraction solvents of the avocado fruit, thereby obtaining the present invention. The avocado fruit extract and the use thereof of the present application differ from the avocado fruit extract and the use thereof disclosed in the prior art by the following: first, the present application employs a mixed solvent for extracting avocado fruits, whereas the prior art does not disclose the mixed solvent used in the present application. As is known, the solubility of Chinese medicinal components in a solvent is directly related to the properties of the solvent, different Chinese medicinal components are obtained by extracting with different solvents, and the key point of the solvent extraction method is to select a proper solvent, so that the required components can be smoothly extracted by properly selecting the solvent. In practice, the choice of hydrophilic or lipophilic solvent will depend on the polarity of the component to be extracted, for example, whether it is water-soluble or fat-soluble. Secondly, although it is known that the D-mannoheptulose contained in the fruit of avocado can promote epidermal collagen, it has been confirmed by the applicant's experiments that the avocado fruit extract of the present application does not act only through D-mannoheptulose, but through the complex action of a plurality of components.

The preparation method of the avocado fruit extract comprises the following steps: drying avocado fruit, pulverizing, adding into acetone-ethanol-n-butane composite solvent, heating for extraction, filtering, repeating the above extraction and filtering steps twice, collecting filtrate, vacuum concentrating to obtain extract, using water as eluent, performing adsorption separation with macroporous resin to obtain eluent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain final extract.

Further, the mass volume ratio of the avocado fruit to the composite solvent is 1:5-100, preferably 1:10-50, and more preferably 1: 30. Further, the volume ratio of the acetone, the ethanol and the n-butane is 1-10:1-10:1-10, preferably 1-5:1-5:1-5, and more preferably 4:3: 1. Further, the time for each extraction is 1 to 2 hours, preferably 1.5 hours. Further, a soaking step is added before heating extraction. Further, the soaking time is 1 to 8 hours, preferably 2 to 6 hours, more preferably 4 hours. Further, the macroporous resin is selected from D392, D301 and D382, preferably D392.

Detailed Description

The present invention is specifically illustrated by the following examples, which are not to be construed as limiting the scope or spirit of the application to the specific methods described herein. It should be understood that these examples are provided to illustrate certain embodiments and are not intended to limit the scope of the present application.

First, verifying the difference in the cosmetic effect of the extracts obtained with different solvents

Example 1: drying and crushing avocado fruits, and adding the crushed avocado fruits into a composite solvent of acetone-ethanol-n-butane, wherein the volume ratio of the acetone to the ethanol to the n-butane is 4:3: 1. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the extracting and filtering steps twice, collecting filtrate, concentrating in vacuum to obtain extract, using water as eluent, using macroporous resin D392 to make adsorption separation to obtain eluent, concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain example 1.

Comparative example 1: drying and crushing avocado fruits, and adding the crushed avocado fruits into a composite solvent of acetone-ethanol-n-butane, wherein the volume ratio of the acetone to the ethanol to the n-butane is 1:1: 1. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the extracting and filtering steps twice, collecting filtrate, concentrating in vacuum to obtain extract, using water as eluent, using macroporous resin D392 to make adsorption separation to obtain eluent, concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain comparative example 1.

Comparative example 2: drying and crushing avocado fruits, and adding the crushed avocado fruits into a composite solvent of acetone-ethanol-n-butane, wherein the volume ratio of the acetone to the ethanol to the n-butane is 1:2: 3. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the extracting and filtering steps twice, collecting the filtrate, concentrating in vacuum to obtain an extract, using water as an eluent, carrying out adsorption separation by using macroporous resin D392 to obtain an eluent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain the comparative example 2.

Comparative example 3: drying avocado fruit, pulverizing, and adding into acetone. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the extracting and filtering steps twice, collecting filtrate, vacuum concentrating to obtain extract, using water as eluent, using macroporous resin D392 to make adsorption separation to obtain eluent, concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain comparative example 3.

Comparative example 4: drying avocado fruit, pulverizing, and adding into ethanol. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the extracting and filtering steps twice, collecting the filtrate, concentrating in vacuum to obtain an extract, using water as an eluent, carrying out adsorption separation by using macroporous resin D392 to obtain an eluent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain the comparative example 4.

Comparative example 5: drying avocado fruit, pulverizing, and adding into n-butane. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the extracting and filtering steps twice, collecting filtrate, vacuum concentrating to obtain extract, using water as eluent, using macroporous resin D392 to make adsorption separation to obtain eluent, concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain comparative example 5.

Comparative example 6: drying avocado fruit, pulverizing, and adding into 80% ethanol solution. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the extracting and filtering steps twice, collecting the filtrate, concentrating in vacuum to obtain an extract, using water as an eluent, carrying out adsorption separation by using macroporous resin D392 to obtain an eluent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain the comparative example 6.

Comparative example 7: drying avocado fruit, pulverizing, and adding into n-hexane. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the above extraction and filtering steps twice, collecting the filtrate, vacuum concentrating to obtain extract, using water as eluent, using macroporous resin D392 to make adsorption separation to obtain eluent, concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain comparative example 7.

Comparative example 8: drying avocado fruit, pulverizing, and adding into ethyl acetate. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the extracting and filtering steps twice, collecting the filtrate, concentrating in vacuum to obtain an extract, using water as an eluent, carrying out adsorption separation by using macroporous resin D392 to obtain an eluent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain the comparative example 8.

Comparative example 9: drying avocado fruit, pulverizing, and adding into petroleum ether. Heating and extracting for 1.5 hours, filtering, repeating the above extraction and filtering steps twice, collecting the filtrate, vacuum concentrating to obtain extract, using water as eluent, using macroporous resin D392 to make adsorption separation to obtain eluent, concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain comparative example 9.

Comparative example 10: d-mannoheptulose as an active ingredient for promoting collagen production.

5 subjects were selected per group, and the subjects in each group were evaluated for the cosmetic effect by a professional 12 weeks after continuously using a cosmetic cream prepared by using the above-mentioned peptide as a collagenase inhibitor and example 1/comparative examples 1 to 10 and the same conventional cosmetic additives, and the evaluation results were as follows:

table 1 difference in cosmetic effect of extracts obtained with different solvents

Examples/comparative examples	Effect scoringa
		Example 1	10
Comparative example 1	8.5
		Comparative example 2	8
Comparative example 3	7.5
		Comparative example 4	6.5
Comparative example 5	6.5
		Comparative example 6	4.5
Comparative example 7	5.5
		Comparative example 8	4
Comparative example 9	4
		Comparative example 10b	8

^aThe total score is 10 points, and the higher the score is, the better the cosmetic effect is.

^bThe content of D-mannoheptulose in the cosmetic cream of comparative example 10 was formulated to be the same as the content of D-mannoheptulose in the cosmetic cream of example 1.

As can be seen from table 1, although some single solvents can achieve superior cosmetic effects, the cosmetic effects of the complex solvent as an extraction solvent are significantly superior to those of other solvents, and the cosmetic effects of the complex solvent as an extraction solvent are also superior to D-mannoheptulose as a whole, indicating that the extract of the present application contains other active ingredients capable of promoting collagen production in addition to D-mannoheptulose as an active ingredient capable of promoting collagen production, and that these active ingredients can be optimally extracted by the complex solvent as an extraction solvent.

In addition, after the skin of the subject was treated with the cosmetic cream of example 1, the skin was more elastic and fine, the texture and pores of the skin were improved the most, wrinkles were significantly less and lighter than those of the other groups, and dark circles were significantly reduced.

Secondly, verifying the effect of the extract of the application alone

When 5 women who had wrinkles in the canthus of 20 to 55 years old or had skin conditions of the eyes requiring improvement (including under-eye bags, dark circles, etc.) were recruited, 1 month after using the cosmetic cream prepared from the extract of example 1 and conventional cosmetic additives, it was found that the skin of 5 women was more elastic and finer, the skin texture and pores were improved, and the number of wrinkles and dark circles was reduced, compared to before use. It can be seen that excellent cosmetic effects can be achieved using the shea butter fruit extract of the present application alone.

Thirdly, verifying the long-term effect and whether side effects are generated by using the extract of the application

The subjects of example 1 above continued to use the extract for 12 weeks without side effects as determined by the skilled artisan. As can be seen, the avocado fruit extract of the application can be used for a long time, is safe and has no side effect.

The embodiments described above are intended to be merely exemplary, and those skilled in the art will recognize, or be able to ascertain using no more than routine experimentation, numerous equivalents. All such equivalents are considered to be within the scope of the claimed subject matter and are encompassed by the following claims. Since modifications will be apparent to those skilled in the art, it is intended that the claimed subject matter be limited only by the scope of the appended claims.

Claims (3)

1. Use of avocado fruit extract in the preparation of a cosmetic cream, characterized in that it is extracted from avocado fruit

The preparation method of the extract comprises the following steps: oven drying avocado fruit, pulverizing, adding into acetone-ethanol-n-ethyl

Heating and extracting in butane complex solvent, filtering, repeating the above extraction and filtering steps twice, collecting filtrate,

vacuum concentrating to obtain extract, eluting with water, separating by adsorption with macroporous resin to obtain eluate,

concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain the extract; wherein the mass volume ratio of the avocado fruit to the composite solvent is 1:30,

the volume ratio of acetone, ethanol and n-butane is 4:3:1, the extraction time is 1.5 hr, and heating

Soaking for 4 hr in D392 selected macroporous resin.

2. A cosmetic cream comprising the avocado fruit extract prepared by the method of claim 1 and

additive for cosmetic use, optionally further comprising collagenase inhibitor.

3. Use of the cosmetic cream of claim 2 for non-therapeutic purposes in the cosmetic treatment of human skin.