CN106418848B - A kind of somatotype method customized for men's shirt - Google Patents

A kind of somatotype method customized for men's shirt Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106418848B
CN106418848B CN201610634301.9A CN201610634301A CN106418848B CN 106418848 B CN106418848 B CN 106418848B CN 201610634301 A CN201610634301 A CN 201610634301A CN 106418848 B CN106418848 B CN 106418848B
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China
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print
men
shirt
variation
parameter rule
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CN201610634301.9A
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CN106418848A (en
Inventor
谢红
宋亚男
张微
刘为敏
李世伟
张锟
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SHANGHAI CITY INSTITUTE OF COSTUME
Shanghai University of Engineering Science
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SHANGHAI CITY INSTITUTE OF COSTUME
Shanghai University of Engineering Science
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H1/00Measuring aids or methods

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Management, Administration, Business Operations System, And Electronic Commerce (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of somatotype methods customized for men's shirt, this method clicks through the Parameters variation of line by each position of structure print to target men's shirt style, find out the boundary that each position of print is distorted after changing, and it modifies to print, data according to modification obtain the parameter rule of each position variation of print again, the combination of positional parameter regular network is established to the parameter rule of new men's shirt print variation again, it is final according to the different by somatotype of parameter rule.The sorting technique can reduce custom made clothing company since single parameter rule corresponds to a large amount of modification times that different building shape causes print to generate flower needed for distortion, realize that print quickly and accurately generates.

Description

A kind of somatotype method customized for men's shirt
Technical field
The present invention relates to technical field of costume design, specifically, being related specifically to a kind of customized for men's shirt Somatotype method.
Background technology
Current human somatotype classification is all based on big data statistical analysis and comes out, and is easy to cover " the spy between monomer Property ", these characteristics include squaring one's shoulders, bow-backed and bulging etc.For custom made clothing, then need certain " characteristics " of client In considering completely, however the build type that national standard separates all is what the uniform linear change of each dimension came out.So And human figure otherness is larger, it is impossible to according to standardization grow, once therefore build be more than set range, based on When certain clothes fashion carries out change version, these " characteristic " factors can cause print to be distorted, then need again according to client Size adjusting print.The somatotype that these lose shape from the point of view of data analysis still data class standard build, but from print knot But belong to another build from the point of view of structure.
Additionally, due to the difference of style, the aptamer redundancy of each style is also different, can modify " characteristic " Range is also different, so needing to revert to style itself, by " characteristic " factors quantization of certain human bodies, current dependence The somatotype method that data analysis comes out cannot be satisfied the demand.
Invention content
It is an object of the invention to be directed to deficiency in the prior art, a kind of build customized for men's shirt is provided Sorting technique, the somatotype method combine a variety of elements pair such as clothes fashion, sample structure, human somatotype and spot size The method for carrying out somatotype.The sorting technique can really realize clothes MTMization and pattern tissue for custom made clothing It generates intelligent.
Following technical scheme may be used to realize in technical problem solved by the invention:
A kind of somatotype method customized for men's shirt, includes the following steps:
1) Parameters variation that line is clicked through by each position of the structure print to target men's shirt style, finds out variation The boundary that print is distorted afterwards;It is as follows:
A. element task is completed, the element task includes design men's shirt patterns or mother matrix, and sets print change The parameter rule of change;
B. the critical specification position that extraction men's shirt makes, and each crucial rule are determined based on a large amount of anthropometric data The maximum value of lattice position physical presence, then each key position amount is increased into maximum value according to certain shelves difference, it finally will be each The serial shelves difference permutation and combination at position establishes size table;
C. print is changed according to the size table and parameter rule of foundation, finds out each position hair of the print of variation out The boundary of raw distortion.
2) it modifies to the print for generating distortion, the data according to modification obtain the parameter rule of new print variation again Then;It is as follows:
D. print modification is carried out to the distortion print that variation generates, records the data of each position modification;
E. the data according to modification obtain the parameter rule at new each position again;
F., the combination of the parameter rule at new each position is established to the parameter rule of new men's shirt print variation.
3) somatotype is as follows according to the difference of parameter rule:
G. different parameter rules is determined into corresponding different building shape;
H. it takes the median at each position to establish the customized Special body pattern frame of men's shirt new somatotype, and is made Ready-made clothes carries out surveying experience card.
Compared with prior art, beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:
The present invention can be according to " characteristic " factors quantization of certain human bodies, to becoming the sample structure and size that version comes out It is changed in large quantities, is obtained again according to modification data and become version rule, and according to the different re-separation builds of parameter rule. The somatotype method combines many factors such as clothes fashion, sample structure, human somatotype and spot size and carries out build point Class.It is intelligent can really to realize that clothes MTMization and pattern tissue generate for custom made clothing for it.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is that one of constructed prototype is made in schematic diagram men's shirt style of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is that schematic diagram men's shirt style of the present invention is made the two of constructed prototype.
Fig. 3 is that schematic diagram men's shirt style of the present invention is made the three of constructed prototype.
Fig. 4 is that schematic diagram men's shirt style of the present invention is made the four of constructed prototype.
Fig. 5 is that schematic diagram men's shirt style of the present invention is made the five of constructed prototype.
Fig. 6 is the flow chart of somatotype method of the present invention.
Specific implementation mode
To make the technical means, the creative features, the aims and the efficiencies achieved by the present invention be easy to understand, with reference to Specific implementation mode, the present invention is further explained.
Referring to Fig. 6, a kind of somatotype method customized for men's shirt of the present invention, its step are as follows:
1, element task is completed
1) constructed prototype is made in the men's shirt style needed for client, as shown in Figures 1 to 5.
Men's shirt put code work generally using collar as standard of size, by model, releases from 37cm-44cm 8 totally numbers Type.
2) the underlying parameter rule of print variation is established.
3) extraction men's shirt is made to critical specification position, and establishes size table.
The selection at general clothes critical specification position depends on main portions required when structure drawing.For men's shirt Speech substantially by each V-neck V enclose on the basis of position, determine that bust, shoulder breadth and waistline are critical specification position, i.e. somatotype index Parameter.
It is research object to choose model (i.e. collar 40cm) among men's shirt, and each position subtracts the corresponding net body ruler of loose measure It is very little, respectively collar 39cm, bust 96cm, shoulder breadth 44cm and waistline 87cm.
According to the net body 3 d measurement data analysis of a large amount of human body, when finding out collar 39cm, bust, shoulder breadth and waistline are based on Maximum value present in present situation, i.e. Bmax=108cm, Smax=45cm and Wmax=103cm, and obtain the difference at three positions Amount, respectively bust 12cm, shoulder breadth 1cm and waistline 16cm.
The foundation of size table:Set specification position, which all increases or reduced according to certain shelves difference, establishes corresponding ruler Code code.
Bust:It is stepped up maximum value according to 1cm grades of differences, common property gives birth to 12 numerical value.
Waistline:It is stepped up maximum value according to 1cm grades of differences, common property gives birth to 16 numerical value.
Shoulder breadth:It is stepped up maximum value according to 0.5cm grades of differences, common property gives birth to 2 numerical value.
Three groups of value arrangements are combined, common property bears 12*16*2=384 group human dimensions, and establishes size table.
Determine the abnormal print generated
According to the underlying parameter rule of print variation, patterns are changed, determine what 384 groups of human dimensions generated The print being distorted in print.So-called distortion is exactly lines occur apparent inflection point or the generation of not smoother and structure occur Variation.
In 384 prints, waistline incrementss are more than 8cm, generate salient point at waist section, and with the more big convex gesture of incrementss more Obviously.
Bust incrementss are in 8cm-12cm, and waistline incrementss are in 0-4cm, and since chest waist difference is excessive, side seam line is in three Horn shape does not meet clothing requirement.
The modification of abnormal print
In 384 groups of data, waistline incrementss reach 8cm, and salient point is generated at anter waist section and needs to carry out print modification.
Waistline incrementss need to eliminate salient point in 8cm-10cm, and the amount of elimination saves wide, the province of reduction by piece after reduction Width amount is equal with the amount eliminated.
In 11cm-13cm, the convex gesture at waist section is more and more obvious waistline incrementss, is obviously in bulging in reflection to build Body is more than back panel dimension for the general anter waist size of bulging body, therefore rear portion size amount is transferred on anter, And front and rear panel latasuture wire shaped keeps similar as possible.
Waistline incrementss first delete rear provincial highway of basic print, while going out in anter waist section in 14cm-16cm Cut the wide amount of province, further according to the print changed out it is convex will definitely the size of rear piece be transferred on anter, and front and rear panel latasuture is linear Shape keeps similar as possible.
Bust incrementss are in 8cm-12cm, when the incrementss of waistline only have 0cm-4cm, since chest waist difference is excessive, rear piece Side seam line is in apparent triangular shape, by piece waist point size after suitably increasing, weakens triangle form, while piece saves after increase Width keeps waist size constant.
Clothing is long:Chest convex body anter clothing length is added in pereonite line or more, and general dosage is in 0.5-1.2cm.
Bulging body clothing length is added in the bottom, and for waistline incrementss in 8cm-10cm, clothing length increases 2cm-3cm, in 11cm-13cm When, clothing length increases 3cm-4cm, and in 14cm-16cm, clothing length increases 4cm-5cm.
Based on modification data, new parameter rule is determined.
Establish the new parameter rule at waistline position
By waistline incrementss in 384 groups within the scope of 8cm-16cm, front and rear panel waist point that each increments is recorded It is averaged with the modification data for saving wide, and lists table 1.
Waistline incrementss 203 variable quantities 507 variable quantities Save wide variable quantity
8 -0.16 -0.16 -0.32
9 -0.20 -0.18 -0.38
10 -0.22 -0.20 -0.42
11 +0.9 -0.9 0
12 +0.98 -0.98 0
13 +1.1 -1.1 0
14 +1.75 -1.75 0
15 +1.88 -1.88 0
16 +2 -2 0
Table 1:Waistline each point variable quantity
By the percentage of the variable quantity of each point in table 1/waistline incrementss=each point, as shown in table 2.
Waistline incrementss 203 points of variation percentages 507 points of variation percentages Save wide variation percentage
8 - 2% - 2% - 4%
9 - 2.2% -2 - 4.2%
10 - 2.2% - 1.8% - 4%
11 + 8.2% - 8.2% 0
12 + 8.16% - 8.16% 0
13 + 8.46% - 8.46% 0
14 + 12.5% - 12.5% 0
15 + 12.53% - 12.53% 0
16 + 12.5% - 12.5% 0
Table 2:The variation percentage of waistline each point
The variation percentage of each point is obtained according to table 2, can obtain the change percentage of front and back print waist point again.Waist Incrementss are enclosed in 8cm-10cm, 203 points are 25%-2%=23% with 507 points of new variation percentages, and 2 points of provincial highway Percentage is 4%/2=2%.In 11cm-12cm, 203 points of variation percentage is 25%+8.3%=33.3%, and 507 The percentage of point is 25%-8.3%=16.7%.In 14cm-16cm, 203 points of new percentages are 25%+12.5%= 37.5%, 507 points are then 25%-12.5%=12.5%.124 points equal with 203 point values, opposite sign.
The anter clothing length caused by convex waist lengthens, also the point of anter related clothing length is added to waistline change it is more regular in, When 8cm-10cm, clothing length is general to lengthen 2cm-3cm, then the percentage of clothing length point in the range of 2/8-3/10, that is, 25%-30%, Desirable median 27.5%.11cm-12cm and 14cm-16cm between the two, clothing length percentage can similarly obtain.
Establish the new parameter rule at bust position
Bust incrementss are when 8cm-12cm and waistline incrementss are in 0cm-3cm, since chest waist difference leads to greatly very much rear piece side Suture is at triangle state, and to weaken triangle state, piece waist point size after need to increasing, while piece saves the whole waist of money holding after increase It is consistent to enclose size.Again the variation percentage of piece waist point is consistent with the mode of table 1 after calculating.
Cause anter clothing length to lengthen because chest is convex, then needs to be added in above pereonite line, by increasing point 204,206,207 and 210, And the X-direction value of the point 102,106,107 and 109 on another anter reaches clothing length and lengthens, and the long amount of elongation of clothing exists In 0.5cm-1.2cm.General bust incrementss reach 5cm and just need long 0.5cm of clothing or so before suitably lengthening, and accordingly with chest It encloses incrementss and gets over also the same lengthening of overcoat length, percentage is basic just 10%.
The parameter rule of sleeve width also in bust, need to only meet the muffs in muffs camber line length=front and back clothing body on sleeve Gesture amount (1.2cm) is grown+eaten to camber line, and the change that sleeve width can be released by the formula is more regular.
Establish the new parameter rule at shoulder breadth and hip circumference position
The shoulder breadth residual quantity of boy student will not generally cause to distort in 1cm or so because of shoulder breadth amount substantially, and change is more regular not Become, hip circumference and shoulder breadth are similarly.
The different somatotypes for releasing men's shirt according to parameter rule
According to waistline parameter rule, it is 4 classes, respectively W1 that can divide waistline incrementss in 0cm-16cm:0cm-7cm;W2: 8cm-10cm;W3:11cm-13cm;W4:14cm-16cm.
According to bust parameter rule, it is 4 classes, respectively B1 that can divide bust incrementss in 5cm-12cm:0cm-4cm;B2: 5cm-7cm;B3:8cm-10cm;B4:11cm-12cm.
The somatotype combination of network that above-mentioned bust and waistline are released, establishes the somatotype of men's shirt, as shown in table 3.
Table 3:Men's shirt somatotype table
Establish the customized Special body pattern frame of men's shirt
Take in table 3 16 per idiotypes each spot size intermediate value (except standard body), utilize oakum material, tape measure and cotton Equal materials package people's platform establishes the customized Special body pattern frame of men's shirt and makes ready-made clothes, carries out surveying experience card.
The ready-made clothes of 16 kinds of build people's platforms will be met, change out and be made ready-made clothes by corresponding parameter rule, carried out Experience card is surveyed, and expert estimation becomes more regular accordingly by feeding back modification.
The above shows and describes the basic principles and main features of the present invention and the advantages of the present invention.The technology of the industry Personnel are it should be appreciated that the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and the above embodiments and description only describe this The principle of invention, without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, various changes and improvements may be made to the invention, these changes Change and improvement all fall within the protetion scope of the claimed invention.The claimed scope of the invention by appended claims and its Equivalent thereof.

Claims (1)

1. a kind of somatotype method customized for men's shirt, which is characterized in that include the following steps:
1) Parameters variation that line is clicked through by each position of the structure print to target men's shirt style, finds out sample after variation The boundary that piece is distorted;
2) it modifies to the print for generating distortion, the data according to modification obtain the parameter rule of new print variation again;
3) according to the different by somatotype of parameter rule;
The step 1) includes the following steps:
A. element task is completed, the element task includes design men's shirt patterns or mother matrix, and sets print variation Underlying parameter rule;
B. the critical specification position that extraction men's shirt makes, and each critical specification portion is determined based on a large amount of anthropometric data The maximum value of position physical presence, then each key position amount is increased into maximum value according to certain shelves difference, finally by each position Serial shelves difference permutation and combination establish size table;
C. print is changed according to the size table of foundation and underlying parameter rule, finds out each position hair of the print of variation out The boundary of raw distortion;
The step 2) includes the following steps:
D. print modification is carried out to the distortion print that variation generates, records the data of each position modification;
E. the data according to modification obtain the parameter rule at new each position again;
F., the combination of the parameter rule at new each position is established to the parameter rule of new men's shirt print variation;
The step 3) includes the following steps:
G. different parameter rules is determined into corresponding different building shape;
H. it takes the median at each position to establish the customized Special body pattern frame of men's shirt new somatotype, and ready-made clothes is made It carries out surveying experience card.
CN201610634301.9A 2016-08-04 2016-08-04 A kind of somatotype method customized for men's shirt Expired - Fee Related CN106418848B (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107784078A (en) * 2017-09-27 2018-03-09 圣凯诺服饰有限公司 A kind of industrialized custom made garments body-measure data consolidation analysis method and analysis system
CN109409228A (en) * 2018-09-25 2019-03-01 湖南省忘不了服饰有限公司 The human somatotype recognition methods based on Shape context suitable for custom made clothing
CN113158272A (en) * 2021-03-30 2021-07-23 江苏云道信息技术有限公司 Automatic printing method and system for personalized clothing customization

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN86200050U (en) * 1986-01-10 1987-05-13 桂运金 Ajustable stencil for quick dressmaking
CN101013481A (en) * 2007-02-09 2007-08-08 浙江理工大学 Female body classification and identification method
CN103886115B (en) * 2012-12-20 2016-12-28 上海工程技术大学 The foundation of a kind of three-dimensional virtual human platform based on different building shape and call method thereof

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