CN106236631B - 一种提亮肤色的面膜液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种提亮肤色的面膜液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种提亮肤色的面膜液及其制备方法，其配方按重量百分比计包含以下组分：提亮组合物1.65～7.2％；螯合剂0.05～0.2％；中和剂0.02～0.1％；丙烯酸(酯)类/C10‑30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1～0.5％；黄原胶0.05～0.2％；保湿剂5.1～17.8％；去离子水余量。本发明的面膜液结合天然蚕丝膜布使用，不但具有优良的深层保湿效果，而且对暗哑、发黄肤色有明显的匀色、提亮效果，让肌肤更接近自然亮泽状态，因为面膜液不含激素、荧光增白剂等其它快速美白成份，且使用天然蚕丝作为膜布，使用过程不易引起过敏等其它不良反应，对肌肤具有良好的保湿、修复、提亮功效。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品领域，具体地涉及一种提亮肤色的面膜液及其制备方法。
背景技术
最近几年，市场上最流行的护肤类产品当属面膜类护肤品，它是使用天然棉或蚕丝布作为载体，浸泡在面膜液中，每袋装入一片膜布。由于该类产品使用方便，便于携带，经过15-20分钟的敷面，即可让消费者稍做休息，又可轻松完成快速补水、修复以及提亮肤色的效果。再加上近几年像美即、玉兰油等品牌推广，以及网络广告宣传的覆盖，特别是智能手机的快速普及使用，使得面膜成为微商的热销产品，并快速火爆进入千家万户。
由于面膜呈爆发式增长，特别是美白类单品，更是受消费者喜爱和追求，使得一些厂家不顾法律法规对化妆品添加剂的约束，违规添加激素类或荧光增白剂等原料作为美白剂，致使很多消费者变成了激素脸，皮肤受到严重的损伤，很多女性深受其害。
因此，安全、有效的提亮肤色的面膜是消费者渴望获得的。
发明内容
为了解决现有技术中存在的上述问题，提供一种原料安全、能有效提亮肤色的面膜，在深层补水的同时，还可获得良好的匀色亮肤的效果，解决了肌肤真正美白前的提亮难题。
本发明的技术目的是通过以下技术方案实现：
本发明所提供的提亮肤色的面膜液，其配方按重量百分比计包含以下组分：提亮组合物1.65～7.2％；螯合剂0.05～0.2％；中和剂0.02～0.1％；丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1～0.5％；黄原胶0.05～0.2％；保湿剂5.1～17.8％；去离子水余量。
进一步地，本发明所述配方按重量百分比计还包含以下组分：抗敏剂0.2～1.3％；香精0.003～0.1％；防腐剂0.03～0.4％。
本发明中，所述提亮组合物选自烟酰胺、乙酰壳糖胺、肌肽、石斛提取物中的两种以上物质的组合。
进一步地，所述提亮组合物包括在面膜液配方中所占重量百分比如下的各组分：烟酰胺1～4％，乙酰壳糖胺0.5～2％，肌肽0.05～0.4％、石斛提取物0.1～0.8％。
进一步地，所述保湿剂选自1,3-丁二醇、甘油、氨基酸保湿剂、蚕丝胶蛋白、透明质酸钠、卵磷脂中的一种或两种以上；所述螯合剂为乙二胺四乙酸二钠和/或乙二胺四乙酸四钠；所述中和剂为氢氧化钠和/或三乙醇胺。经优选，所述氨基酸保湿剂为三甲基甘氨酸。
更进一步地，所述保湿剂包括在面膜液配方中所占重量百分比如下的各组分：1,3-丁二醇2～7％，甘油1～4％，氨基酸保湿剂1～2％、蚕丝胶蛋白1～4％、透明质酸钠0.03～0.1％、卵磷脂0.1～0.8％。
优选地，所述抗敏剂选自扭刺仙人掌提取物和/或植物抗敏组合JS-PRE。
本发明中更优选地，所述抗敏剂包括在面膜液配方中所占重量百分比如下的各组分：扭刺仙人掌提取物占配方总量的0.1～0.8％，植物抗敏组合JS-PRE占配方总量的0.1～0.5％。
本发明中，所述防腐剂选自苯氧乙醇和辛酰羟肟酸，其中苯氧乙醇占面膜液配方总重量0.02～0.3％，辛酰羟肟酸占面膜液配方总重量0.01～0.1％。
本发明的另一技术目的是提供一种提亮肤色的面膜液的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1).将螯合剂加入到去离子水中，然后再加入黄原胶及已与1.3-丁二醇混匀的丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，充分搅拌溶解，均质30秒；
(2).快速搅拌下将中和剂分散于去离子水中，使其完全溶解，然后将其缓慢倒入步骤(1)所述溶液中，并加热至85～90℃时保温20～30min，降温至73～77℃时将甘油、氨基酸保湿剂加入乳化锅中，搅拌均匀；
(3).将乙酰壳糖胺、卵磷脂、蚕丝胶蛋白、石斛提取物、透明质酸钠加入步骤(2)所得溶液中，充分搅匀并保温20～30min，然后冷却至55～65℃时将烟酰胺、抗敏剂加入乳化锅中混匀；
(4).将步骤(3)所得溶液冷却至40～45℃时将香精、肌肽、防腐剂加入乳化锅中混匀，搅拌冷却，即得。
优选地，所述步骤(3)中烟酰胺加入时，反应体系PH值控制在6.0-6.5之间。
本发明的有益效果：
与现有技术相比，本发明所述提亮肤色的面膜液具有的有益效果：
本发明所述提亮肤色的面膜液，使用提亮组合物所制得的面膜液结合天然蚕丝膜布使用，不但具有优良的深层保湿效果，而且对暗哑、发黄肤色有明显的匀色、提亮效果，让肌肤更接近自然亮泽状态；因为面膜液不含激素、荧光增白剂等其它快速美白成份，且做成面膜时采用天然蚕丝作为膜布，使用过程不易引起过敏等其它不良反应，所以对肌肤具有良好的保湿、修复、提亮功效。
1.本发明中没有采用传统的美白剂，配方中乙酰化壳糖胺具有软化角质细胞的作用，较易打开药物及活性成分的吸收通道，和烟酰胺复配使用时，可以抑制色斑面积的增加，起到提亮肤色的作用。
2.配合肌肽，可清除在氧化应激过程中细胞膜的脂肪酸过度氧化而形成的活性氧自由基(ROS)以及α-β不饱和醛；显著抑制自由基和金属离子引起的脂质氧化，清除自由基的同时，延缓肌肤衰老。
2.石斛提取物含有大量溶于水的黄酮类和多糖类活性成分，能够有效的抑制酪氨酸酶，从而抑制皮肤黑色素的产生，辅助提升美白，并为人体皮肤提供了充足的营养，能够有效提高皮肤亮度，达到美白的效果。
具体实施方式
为了使本发明的目的、技术方案和优点更加明确，下面对本发明的优选实施例进行详细的描述。
本发明中丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物(该原料商品名PemulenTMTR-1,是Lubrizol公司产品，0.2％水凝胶粘度：10，000～15，000mpa.s)呈酸性，相互结合的大分子长链高聚单体需要和碱中和后才具有悬浮增稠作用。
本发明保湿剂，其中氨基酸保湿剂是三甲基甘氨酸，分子式：C5H11NO2，其结构式和保湿机理如下：
本发明所述抗敏剂中，扭刺仙人掌提取物由南京丽之宏原料公司提供，商品名：SR-1。本发明的植物抗敏组合JS-PRE包含牡丹根提取物、枇杷叶提取物、卷柏提取物、侧柏叶提取物四种物质，由韩国瑞帝安(RADIANT)公司提供，商品名为：JS-PRE，该组合是通过阻断AhR核定位而诱发细胞因子途径进行抗衰老及抗炎作用的。
本发明所述提亮组合物中，烟酰胺优选浙江新赛科药业公司产品，其中烟酸含量≤50ppm。烟酰胺和乙酰壳糖胺的组合可以抑制色斑面积的增加，可以减少紫外线引起的肤色加深和肤色不均匀；肌肽由β-丙氨酸和L-组氨酸组成的二肽，可以清除自由基，抗氧化，用于防止肌肤的衰老。可清除在氧化应激过程中细胞膜的脂肪酸过度氧化而形成的活性氧自由基(ROS)以及α-β不饱和醛，显著抑制自由基和金属离子引起的脂质氧化，让肌肤处于健康状态。肌肽为深圳维琪公司产品，商品名：Carnosine。石斛提取物因含有大量溶于水的黄酮类和多糖类活性成分，能有效的抑制酪氨酸酶，从而抑制皮肤黑色素的产生，并为人体皮肤提供充足的营养，能够有效提高皮肤的亮度，协助达到美白的效果。
以下通过具体的例子对本发明做进一步阐述，但本发明并不限于此特定例子。
1、实施例1～3面膜液的配方
表1面膜液的配方
备注：本发明实施例中各组分的重量可以是千克或公斤。
2.实施例1～3的提亮肤色面膜液的制备工艺
提亮肤色面膜液的制备方法：
(1).将乙二胺四乙酸二钠加入到去离子水中，然后再加入黄原胶，及已与1.3-丁二醇混匀的丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，充分搅拌溶解，均质30秒；
(2).快速搅拌下(速度调至25HZ)将氢氧化钠分散于占总重量5％的去离子水中，使其完全溶解，然后将其缓慢倒入步骤(1)所述溶液中，并加热至85～90℃时保温25分钟，降温至75摄氏度时将甘油、三甲基甘氨酸加入乳化锅中，搅拌均匀；
(3).将乙酰壳糖胺、卵磷脂、蚕丝胶蛋白、石斛提取物、透明质酸钠加入步骤(2)所述溶液中，充分搅匀，保温20分钟，然后冷却至55～65℃时将烟酰胺、扭刺仙人掌提取物、JS-PRE加入乳化锅中混匀；
(4).将步骤(3)所述溶液冷却至40～45℃时将香精、肌肽、苯氧乙醇和辛酰羟肟酸加入乳化锅中混匀，补足至配方量的去离子水，冷却搅拌10分钟，检测合格即可出料。
对比例1的制备方法与实施例1～3的制备方法相同。
3.效果测试
选用150名使用者，使用通过以上方法制得的面膜。使用方式为：每天使用一片，每次敷面15～20分钟，坚持连续使用一周，然后进行效果测定。
表2面膜使用效果测试
由表2的试用结果可知：1、本发明的面膜液试用过程中，有反应发热、甚至刺激的人数低于2％，面膜使用后不易清洗的比例较低，使用过程中有产生过敏的比例较低，说明本面膜液是安全可靠的。2、实施例1～3提亮肤色的效果较好，其中实施例3高达74％，基本达到设计目标，作为美白产品的前奏，可以满足目前中国消费者对提亮肤色的需求。3、该面膜液保湿度改善效果是非常明显，明显改善和稍有改善的几乎达100％。
显然，本发明的上述实施例仅仅是为清楚地说明本发明所作的举例，而并非是对本发明的实施方式的限定。对于所属领域的普通技术人员来说，在上述说明的基础上还可以做出其它不同形式的变化或变动。这里无法对所有的实施方式予以穷举。凡是属于本发明的技术方案所引伸出的显而易见的变化或变动仍处于本发明的保护范围之列。
Claims (8)
1.一种提亮肤色的面膜液，其特征在于，其配方按重量百分比计包含以下组分：提亮组合物1.65～7.2％；螯合剂0.05～0.2％；中和剂0.02～0.1％；丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1～0.5％；黄原胶0.05～0.2％；保湿剂5.1～17.8％；去离子水余量；所述提亮组合物选自烟酰胺、乙酰壳糖胺、肌肽、石斛提取物中的两种以上物质的组合，且含有烟酰胺与乙酰壳糖胺；
所述提亮组合物包括在面膜液配方中所占重量百分比如下的各组分：烟酰胺1～4％，乙酰壳糖胺0.5～2％，肌肽0.05～0.4％、石斛提取物0.1～0.8％。
2.根据权利要求1所述的面膜液，其特征在于，所述配方按重量百分比计还包含以下组分：抗敏剂0.2～1.3％；香精0.003～0.1％；防腐剂0.03～0.4％。
3.根据权利要求1所述的面膜液，其特征在于，所述保湿剂选自1,3-丁二醇、甘油、氨基酸保湿剂、蚕丝胶蛋白、透明质酸钠、卵磷脂中的一种或两种以上的；所述螯合剂为乙二胺四乙酸二钠和/或乙二胺四乙酸四钠；所述中和剂为氢氧化钠和/或三乙醇胺。
4.根据权利要求3所述的面膜液，其特征在于，所述保湿剂包括在面膜液配方中所占重量百分比如下的各组分：1,3-丁二醇2～7％，甘油1～4％，氨基酸保湿剂1～2％、蚕丝胶蛋白1～4％、透明质酸钠0.03～0.1％、卵磷脂0.1～0.8％。
5.根据权利要求4所述的面膜液，其特征在于，所述抗敏剂选自扭刺仙人掌提取物、和/或植物抗敏组合JS-PRE。
6.根据权利要求5所述的面膜液，其特征在于，所述抗敏剂包括在面膜液配方中所占重量百分比如下的各组分：扭刺仙人掌提取物0.1～0.8％，植物抗敏组合JS-PRE0.1～0.5％。
7.根据权利要求6所述的面膜液，其特征在于，所述防腐剂选自苯氧乙醇和辛酰羟肟酸，其中苯氧乙醇占面膜液配方总重量0.02～0.3％，辛酰羟肟酸占面膜液配方总重量0.01～0.1％。
8.一种如权利要求7所述的提亮肤色的面膜液的制备方法，其特征在于,包括以下步骤：
(1).将螯合剂加入到去离子水中，然后再加入黄原胶及已与1.3-丁二醇混匀的丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物，充分搅拌溶解，均质30秒；
(2).快速搅拌下将中和剂分散于去离子水中，使其完全溶解，然后将其缓慢倒入步骤(1)所述溶液中，并加热至85～90℃时保温20～30min,降温至73～77℃时将甘油、氨基酸保湿剂加入乳化锅中，搅拌均匀；
(3).将乙酰壳糖胺、卵磷脂、蚕丝胶蛋白、石斛提取物、透明质酸钠加入步骤(2)所得溶液中，充分搅匀并保温20～30min，然后冷却至55～65℃时将烟酰胺、抗敏剂加入乳化锅中混匀；
(4).将步骤(3)所得溶液冷却至40～45℃时将香精、肌肽、防腐剂加入乳化锅中混匀，补充至配方量的去离子水，搅拌冷却，即得。
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