CN105769601B - 一种核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN105769601B CN105769601B CN201610192752.1A CN201610192752A CN105769601B CN 105769601 B CN105769601 B CN 105769601B CN 201610192752 A CN201610192752 A CN 201610192752A CN 105769601 B CN105769601 B CN 105769601B
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- parts
- walnut
- mud
- mask
- powder
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜及其制备方法，所述面膜由以下原料制成：核桃粕酵素液、卡波姆、三乙醇胺、高岭土、绿石泥粉、绿豆粉、甘油、1,2‑丙二醇、1,3‑丁二醇、蜂蜜、维生素E、珍珠粉、羊毛脂、卵磷脂、单硬脂酸甘油酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、复方抗菌剂、香精、去离子水。本发明的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜以核桃粕酵素液为主要有效成分，并辅以珍珠粉等，有很好的抑制黑色素生成，淡斑美白之功效。同时加入吸附剂以清除毛孔污垢，加入多种抗氧化剂，清除自由基，延缓皮肤衰老。卡波姆、卵磷脂等能使肌肤保持水润光泽。更重要的是本发明的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜不含对人体有害成分，对皮肤无刺激性，不会引起任何过敏反应。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于面膜制备技术领域，尤其涉及一种核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着社会经济的发展以及生活品质的提高，人们越来越注重面部护理，随之开发的化妆品种类也日益繁多。面膜是面部护理中的主要内容之一，当面膜覆盖于脸部时，面部暂时与外界的空气隔离，肌肤温度提高，皮肤毛孔扩张，汗腺分泌及新陈代谢都得到了促进，这使得肌肤的含氧量上升，有利于肌肤排除表皮细胞新陈代谢的产物和累积的油脂类物质，同时面膜中的养分渗入肌肤表层，使皮肤水润光泽而富有弹性。
申请号为201510698508.8的中国专利申请公开了一种保湿面膜的制备方法，该面膜由胡萝卜榨汁后和混合加热后的绿豆粉、核桃仁粉和面粉混合后加入植物油和精油制备得到。由于核桃仁中含有大量的核桃油脂，皮肤不易吸收，而且容易堵塞皮肤毛孔，继而导致毛孔粗大、生长粉刺、痘痘、脂肪粒等危害。
以高岭土等为主要成分的泥浆类面膜具有一定的吸附性能，能很好的清除肌肤污垢，解决毛孔阻塞等多种问题。然而有些泥浆类面膜虽有显著的清除功效，但易使皮肤暗淡、干燥，失去光泽。
发明内容
针对现有技术的不足，本发明提供一种核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜及其制备方法。所述面膜采用核桃粕酵素液，其含有丰富的多酚，能够抑制黑色素生成，且具有良好的抗氧化作用。
本发明的技术方案如下：一种核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜，所述泥浆面膜的制作原料包括核桃粕酵素液。
所述核桃粕酵素液在泥浆面膜制作原料中的重量比为4～12％，可以根据实际情况进行调整。
所述核桃粕酵素液的制备方法如下：将核桃粕粗粉与去离子水混合后，再加入白砂糖，灭菌后于无菌条件下加入酵母粉，混匀后进行发酵；发酵结束后进行离心，得上清液，即为核桃粕酵素液。
制备核桃粕酵素液过程中：核桃粕粗粉、白砂糖、酵母粉与水的质量比为1：0.5～0.8：0.4～0.6：15～25；核桃粗粉发酵温度为30～37℃，发酵时间为10～12天。
所述核桃粕粗粉粒径为50～100目，将核桃粕干燥、粉碎、过50～100目筛，得到核桃粕粗粉。
所述核桃粕酵素液中多酚含量为18％以上，核桃粕酵素液能分解旧角质层，促进皮肤组织新生。同时酵素液中的多酚具有很好的抗氧化，清除自由基，淡斑美白的作用。
本发明采用核桃仁榨油后得到核桃粕，虽然核桃粕中的油脂含量降低，但多酚含量也比较低，而经过本发明发酵工艺后，核桃粕酵素液的多酚浓度与未加菌发酵的核桃粕混合物的多酚浓度相比，能够提高60％以上，多酚具有很好的抗氧化，清除自由基，淡斑美白的作用。故将此酵素液用于制备面膜，能够明显提高产品的抗氧化能力，且能清楚多种自由基，延缓肌肤衰老，同时能够通过抑制酪氨酸酶活性，减少黑色素生成，从而达到祛斑的功效。
进一步地，所述泥浆面膜由以下重量份的原料制成：核桃粕酵素液4-6份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、三乙醇胺0.3-0.5份、高岭土1-3份、绿石泥粉0.3-0.8份、绿豆粉5-8份、甘油2-4份、1,2-丙二醇5-7份、1,3-丁二醇2.5-4.5份、蜂蜜0.8-1.2份、维生素E 0.4-0.6份、珍珠粉0.5-1.5份、羊毛脂0.4-0.6份、卵磷脂0.8-1.5份、单硬脂酸甘油酯2.5-4份、鲸蜡硬脂醇4-6份、复方抗菌剂0.3-0.5份、香精0.03-0.05份、去离子水49.95-70.07份。
作为优选，所述泥浆面膜由以下重量份的原料制成：核桃酵素液5份、卡波姆0.2份、三乙醇胺0.4份、高岭土1.5份、绿石泥粉0.5份、绿豆粉6份、甘油3份、1,2-丙二醇6份、1,3-丁二醇3份、蜂蜜1份、维生素E 0.5份、珍珠粉1份、羊毛脂0.5份、卵磷脂1份、单硬脂酸甘油酯3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇5份、复方抗菌剂0.4份、香精0.04份、去离子水62.06份。
所述的复方抗菌剂有效成分为双咪唑烷基脲和碘代丙炔基氨甲酸丁酯。
本发明提供的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜具有显著的清除污垢、淡斑美白、促进肌肤水油平衡的功能。核桃粕酵素液含有丰富的多酚，能够抑制黑色素生成，且有良好的抗氧化作用；蜂蜜不仅能滋养肌肤，还能抗菌消炎，促进组织再生；维生素E能清除自由基，抑制过氧化脂质生成，也可抑制酪氨酸酶的活性，祛除色斑；卵磷脂良好的亲水性和亲油性，能使皮肤光泽柔嫩。高岭土及绿石泥粉有绝佳的吸附功能，能够吸除皮肤的油份和废物，清洁污垢，平衡油脂分泌，使皮肤光滑而更有弹性；珍珠粉可以去除痘痘及黑头，淡斑美白，清除自由基，延缓皮肤衰老；绿豆粉不但可去角质、消炎、平衡油脂，也可以改善暗沉肤色；三乙醇胺用于调节面膜pH，使其接近面部酸碱值。
本发明还提供所述的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤(1)按比例称取核桃粕酵素液、卡波姆、三乙醇胺、高岭土、绿石泥粉、绿豆粉、珍珠粉和去离子水，混合搅拌，制成水相；
步骤(2)按比例称取甘油、1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、蜂蜜、维生素E、羊毛脂、卵磷脂、单硬脂酸甘油酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇和复方抗菌剂，搅拌后制成油相；
步骤(3)将水相和油相分别加热后，将油相缓慢加入到水相中，边加边搅拌使其混合均匀；待温度降至40±5℃时，按比例加入香精，搅拌均匀，放冷，即得核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜。
所述制备方法中将水相和油相分别加热到70～80℃。
所述泥浆面膜使用时：将制备好的泥浆面膜均匀涂抹于面部，厚度为1mm左右，15～20min后洗去即可。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：本发明的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜以核桃粕酵素液为主要有效成分，并辅以珍珠粉等，有很好的抑制黑色素生成，淡斑美白之功效。同时加入吸附剂以清除毛孔污垢，加入多种抗氧化剂，清除自由基，延缓皮肤衰老。卡波姆、卵磷脂等能使肌肤保持水润光泽。更重要的是本发明的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜不含对人体有害成分，对皮肤无刺激性，且不会引起任何过敏反应，是一款安全有效的酵素泥浆面膜。
附图说明
图1为没食子酸标准曲线图。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明的技术方案做进一步详细说明。
以下实施例采用的酵母粉为安琪酵母；复方抗菌剂有效成分为双咪唑烷基脲和碘代丙炔基氨甲酸丁酯，氮含量为7.5～8.5％，碘代丙炔基氨甲酸丁酯含量为0.65～0.95％，购买于北京桑普生物化学技术有限公司；实施例中采用的试剂均为化妆品级别。
实施例1
核桃酵素液4份、卡波姆0.1份、三乙醇胺0.3份、高岭土1份、绿石泥粉0.3份、绿豆粉5份、甘油2份、1,2-丙二醇5份、1,3-丁二醇2.5份、蜂蜜0.8份、维生素E 0.4份、珍珠粉0.5份、羊毛脂0.4份、卵磷脂0.8份、单硬脂酸甘油酯2.5份、鲸蜡硬脂醇4份、复方抗菌剂0.3份、香精0.03份、去离子水70.07份。
制备上述核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜的方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)主要成分核桃粕酵素液的发酵及纯化工艺为：
将核桃粕干燥、粉碎、过60目筛，得到核桃粕粗粉。将20g核桃粕粗粉与400mL去离子水混溶于容量为1L的锥形瓶中，再加入12g白砂糖，121℃高压灭菌20min，冷却后于无菌超净台中加入10g安琪酵母，混匀后加盖带有孔径为0.22μm滤膜的封口膜，将锥形瓶置于33℃、转速为180r/min的摇床中进行发酵。发酵至11d时，静置锥形瓶，吸取液体，12000r/min离心10min后，取上清液，即为所用核桃粕酵素液；
(2)取甘油2份、1,2-丙二醇5份、1,3-丁二醇2.5份、蜂蜜0.8份、维生素E 0.4份、羊毛脂0.4份、卵磷脂0.8份、单硬脂酸甘油酯2.5份、鲸蜡硬脂醇4份、复方抗菌剂0.3份，于70℃加热搅拌，制成油相；
(3)取核桃酵素液4份、卡波姆0.1份、三乙醇胺0.3份、高岭土1份、绿石泥粉0.3份、绿豆粉5份、珍珠粉0.5份，去离子水70.07份，制备水相；将上述油相和水相分别加热到70℃后，将油相缓慢加入到水相中，边加边搅拌使其混合均匀；
(4)待温度降至35℃时，加入香精0.03份，搅拌均匀，放冷1h，即得成品。
实施例2
核桃酵素液5份、卡波姆0.2份、三乙醇胺0.4份、高岭土1.5份、绿石泥粉0.5份、绿豆粉6份、甘油3份、1,2-丙二醇6份、1,3-丁二醇3份、蜂蜜1份、维生素E 0.5份、珍珠粉1份、羊毛脂0.5份、卵磷脂1份、单硬脂酸甘油酯3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇5份、复方抗菌剂0.4份、香精0.04份、去离子水62.06份。
制备上述核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜的方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将核桃粕干燥、粉碎、过80目筛，得到核桃粕粗粉。将20g核桃粕粗粉与300mL去离子水混溶于容量为1L的锥形瓶中，再加入10g白砂糖，121℃高压灭菌20min，冷却后于无菌超净台中加入8g安琪酵母，混匀后加盖带有孔径为0.22μm滤膜的封口膜，将锥形瓶置于35℃、转速为180r/min的摇床中进行发酵。发酵至12天时，静置锥形瓶，吸取液体，12000r/min离心10min后，取上清液，即为所用核桃粕酵素液；
(2)取甘油3份、1,2-丙二醇6份、1,3-丁二醇3份、蜂蜜1份、维生素E 0.5份、羊毛脂0.5份、卵磷脂1份、单硬脂酸甘油酯3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇5份、复方抗菌剂0.4份，于75℃加热搅拌，制成油相；
(3)取核桃酵素液5份、卡波姆0.2份、三乙醇胺0.4份、高岭土1.5份、绿石泥粉0.5份、绿豆粉6份、珍珠粉1份，去离子水62.06份，制备水相；将上述油相和水相分别加热到75℃后，将油相缓慢加入到水相中，边加边搅拌使其混合均匀；
(4)待温度降至40℃时，加入香精0.04份，搅拌均匀，放冷1h，即得成品。
实施例3
核桃酵素液6份、卡波姆0.3份、三乙醇胺0.5份、高岭土3份、绿石泥粉0.8份、绿豆粉8份、甘油4份、1,2-丙二醇7份、1,3-丁二醇4.5份、蜂蜜1.2份、维生素E 0.6份、珍珠粉1.5份、羊毛脂0.6份、卵磷脂1.5份、单硬脂酸甘油酯4份、鲸蜡硬脂醇6份、复方抗菌剂0.5份、香精0.05份、去离子水49.95份。
制备上述核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜的方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将核桃粕干燥、粉碎、过100目筛，得到核桃粕粗粉。将20g核桃粕粗粉与500mL去离子水混溶于容量为1L的锥形瓶中，再加入16g白砂糖，121℃高压灭菌20min，冷却后于无菌超净台中加入12g安琪酵母，混匀后加盖带有孔径为0.22μm滤膜的封口膜，将锥形瓶置于37℃、转速为180r/min的摇床中进行发酵。发酵至11d时，静置锥形瓶，吸取液体，12000r/min离心10min后，取上清液，即为所用核桃粕酵素液；
(2)取甘油4份、1,2-丙二醇7份、1,3-丁二醇4.5份、蜂蜜1.2份、维生素E 0.6份、羊毛脂0.6份、卵磷脂1.5份、单硬脂酸甘油酯4份、鲸蜡硬脂醇6份、复方抗菌剂0.5份，于80℃加热搅拌，制成油相；
(3)取核桃酵素液6份、卡波姆0.3份、三乙醇胺0.5份、高岭土3份、绿石泥粉0.8份、绿豆粉8份、珍珠粉1.5份，去离子水49.95份，制备水相；将上述油相和水相分别加热到80℃后，将油相缓慢加入到水相中，边加边搅拌使其混合均匀；
(4)待温度降至45℃时，加入香精0.05份，搅拌均匀，放冷1h，即得成品。
实施例4
一.检测方法
1.核桃粕酵素液多酚含量测定
(1)试验材料
没食子酸标准品、福林酚、实施例1制备的核桃粕酵素液、碳酸钠。
(2)试验仪器
水浴锅，振荡器，紫外分光光度计。
(3)试验方法
配制浓度分别为10、20、30、40、50、60、70、80、90、100μg/mL的没食子酸标准品溶液。分别取1mL没食子酸标准品溶液和1mL核桃粕酵素液于试管中，依次加入1mL 20％碳酸钠溶液，1.5mL福林酚显色剂，混合均匀，60℃下避光反应1h，在紫外分光光度计765nm波长处测定吸光值。以没食子酸标准品浓度为横坐标，A765(在765nm的吸光值)为纵坐标，制作没食子酸标准曲线，如图1所示。以未加菌发酵的核桃粕混合物作对照。
2.面膜稳定性测定
依照化妆品(面膜)检验执行标准QB/T2872-2007测定面膜的稳定性。耐热性试验：将面膜置于(40±1)℃下保持24h，恢复至室温后与试验前比较是否有明显差异；耐寒性试验：将面膜置于(-10±1)℃下保持24h，恢复至室温后与试验前比较是否有明显差异。
二.试验结果
1.核桃粕酵素液的多酚含量
以没食子酸标准品浓度为横坐标，A765为纵坐标，制作没食子酸标准曲线，如图1所示，拟合得标准曲线方程为y＝0.0113x-0.0282(R2＝0.9983)。按照标准曲线方程计算得核桃粕酵素液的多酚浓度为1030.3μg/mL，未加菌发酵的核桃粕混合物的多酚浓度为627.6μg/mL，由此可见，发酵后核桃粕混合物的多酚含量提高了64％。多酚具有很强的抗氧性，能清除多种自由基，延缓皮肤衰老，同时能够通过抑制酪氨酸酶活性，减少黑色素生成，从而达到祛斑的功效。将天然植物多酚添加于化妆品中，不仅能够祛除色斑，延缓肌肤衰老，且无任何毒副作用。此外，将核桃粕进一步发酵不仅有利于提高核桃资源的综合利用，且能创造更大的经济效益。
2.面膜的稳定性
依照化妆品(面膜)检验执行标准QB/T2872-2007测定面膜的耐热性和耐寒性，结果显示面膜升温或降温后均未出现水油分层等不稳定现象，由此可见，本发明具有良好的稳定性。
上述实施例为本发明的几种具体实施方式，旨在帮助理解本发明实施例的原理和制备方法，但本发明的实施方式并不受上述实施例的限制；同时，对于本领域的一般技术人员，依据本发明实施例，在具体实施方式和应用范围上均会有改变之处，综上所述，本说明书内容不应理解为对本发明的限制。而且，其他任何未背离本发明的精神实质和原理下所作的改变、修饰、替代、简化等均包含在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (9)
1.一种核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述泥浆面膜的制作原料包括核桃粕酵素液；
所述泥浆面膜由以下重量份的原料制成：核桃粕酵素液4-6份、卡波姆0.1-0.3份、三乙醇胺0.3-0.5份、高岭土1-3份、绿石泥粉0.3-0.8份、绿豆粉5-8份、甘油2-4份、1,2-丙二醇5-7份、1,3-丁二醇2.5-4.5份、蜂蜜0.8-1.2份、维生素E 0.4-0.6份、珍珠粉0.5-1.5份、羊毛脂0.4-0.6份、卵磷脂0.8-1.5份、单硬脂酸甘油酯2.5-4份、鲸蜡硬脂醇4-6份、复方抗菌剂0.3-0.5份、香精0.03-0.05份、去离子水49.95-70.07份。
2.如权利要求1所述的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述核桃粕酵素液在泥浆面膜制作原料中的重量比为4~12%。
3.如权利要求1所述的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述核桃粕酵素液的制备方法如下：将核桃粕粗粉与去离子水混合后，再加入白砂糖，灭菌后于无菌条件下加入酵母粉，混匀后进行发酵；发酵结束后进行离心，得上清液，即为核桃粕酵素液。
4.如权利要求3所述的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜，其特征在于，制备核桃粕酵素液过程中：核桃粕粗粉、白砂糖、酵母粉与水的重量份数比为1：0.5~0.8：0.4~0.6：15~25。
5.如权利要求3所述的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述核桃粕粗粉粒径为50~100目。
6.如权利要求3所述的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜，其特征在于，核桃粗粉发酵温度为30~37℃，发酵时间为10~12天。
7.如权利要求1所述的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜，其特征在于，所述泥浆面膜由以下重量份的原料制成：核桃粕酵素液5份、卡波姆0.2份、三乙醇胺0.4份、高岭土1.5份、绿石泥粉0.5份、绿豆粉6份、甘油3份、1,2-丙二醇6份、1,3-丁二醇3份、蜂蜜1份、维生素E 0.5份、珍珠粉1份、羊毛脂0.5份、卵磷脂1份、单硬脂酸甘油酯3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇5份、复方抗菌剂0.4份、香精0.04份、去离子水62.06份。
8.一种如权利要求1～7任一所述的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
步骤（1）按比例称取核桃粕酵素液、卡波姆、三乙醇胺、高岭土、绿石泥粉、绿豆粉、珍珠粉和去离子水，混合搅拌，制成水相；
步骤（2）按比例称取甘油、1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、蜂蜜、维生素E、羊毛脂、卵磷脂、单硬脂酸甘油酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇和复方抗菌剂，搅拌后制成油相；
步骤（3）将水相和油相分别加热后，将油相缓慢加入到水相中，边加边搅拌使其混合均匀；待温度降至40±5℃时，按比例加入香精，搅拌均匀，放冷，即得核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜。
9.如权利要求8所述的核桃酵素美白滋养泥浆面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，所述制备方法中将水相和油相分别加热到70~80℃。
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