CN105624901B - Fabric and its method for weaving with flash of light varying effect - Google Patents
Fabric and its method for weaving with flash of light varying effect Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of fabrics and its method for weaving with flash of light varying effect.The fabric is two-sided knitting fabric, surface layer yarn is formed by the metallized thread individual layer multi-color cord that thickness is 12 μm or 25 μm with 50% 70% viscose rayon and 50 30% modal fiber blended yarn doubling, inner layer yarn by 30% Modal and 70% cotton fiber is blended forms, fabric is weaved through circular knitting machine.The fabric face utilizes metallized thread characteristic, and fabric is made to have strong flash effect, and can increase human body comfort with the preferable Modal fibre of hygroscopicity in reverse side, and the present invention is used for the making of fashionable dress, tippet yarn, scarf and upholstery etc..
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of fabrics and its method for weaving with flash of light varying effect.Belong to textile fabric technology neck
Domain.
Background technology
In recent years, people gradually like the knitting fabric of metallized thread and other fiber interweavings, and this fabric not only has good
Good drapability, and there is strong flash effect, it is beautiful in colour, it is rich and magnificent, it is to make various female's fashionable dresses and stage clothes
The preferable fabric of dress.This fabric maximum feature be metallized thread in the form of flotation line, be neatly arranged in parallel in the positive and negative of fabric
Face, if cloth cover is watched in station in different positions, due to the difference of angle, the golden light on cloth cover can be flickering, is imbued with strong
Strong fluctuations, therefore the fabric can be used not only for fashionable dress, but also various tippet yarns can be made, scarf and indoor dress
Adorn articles for use etc..
Modal fibre is a kind of tModified Cellulose Fibers of high wet modulus, and the raw material of the fiber is using dragon spruce, beech system
Into wood pulps, fiber is processed by special spinning technique, all natural materials of the fibrous raw material are harmless, and
Can natural decomposition, environmental sound.The dress-goods manufactured with Modal fibre has good flexibility and excellent suction
It is moist, it is the first-class selection of the personal product such as underwear.
Viscose rayon category regenerated celulose fibre, it is using native cellulose as raw material, through works such as alkalization, aging, yellows
Soluble cellulose xanthate is made in sequence, is re-dissolved in sig water and viscose glue is made, and is made through wet spinning.Viscose rayon moisture absorption
Property is good, easy to dye, has been not easy electrostatic, has there is preferable spinning property.
Therefore, blended using Modal fibre and viscose rayon and the progress of other fibers, the dress-goods of manufacture has very
Good flexibility and hygroscopicity, is chiefly used in the making of personal product.
The content of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of fabrics and its method for weaving with flash of light varying effect.Fabric front profit
With metallized thread characteristic, make fabric that there is strong flash effect, and can with the preferable Modal fibre of hygroscopicity in reverse side
Increase human body comfort.
Realizing the technical solution of the object of the invention is:A kind of fabric with flash of light varying effect is two-sided knitted side
Material, front fabric are made of metallized thread yarn and the scribbled of viscose rayon and Modal fibre, and reverse side fabric yarn is not by
Dai Er fibers and cotton fiber composition.
The percentage composition of the raw material of fabric is:Front raw material of fabric includes the viscose rayon and 50-30% of 50%-70%
Modal fibre, and 12 μm or 25 μm of metallized thread individual layer multi-color cord, reverse side raw material of fabric includes Modal fibre 30%, cotton
Fiber 70%.Such fabric composition proportion causes inner layer good hygroscopic fabric, soft, and increasing human body has comfort, surface layer face
Material is visually beautiful containing metallized thread, has flickering, and feel is fine and smooth.
A kind of method for weaving of the fabric with flash of light varying effect, the positive yarn being knitted in fabric is by metallized thread
Yarn is formed with viscose rayon and modal fiber blended yarn doubling, according to blowing-cotton carding-drafting-thick on cotton spinning equipment
The technological process spinning that yarn-spun yarn-winder-doubling-is twisted thread.
Yarn in the reverse side knitting fabric is formed by Modal fibre and cotton fiber by blended, is pressed in equipment
It is spinned according to the technological process of mixing preparation-opening picking-cotton carding-combing-drafting-rove-spun yarn-winder.
The two-sided knitting fabric ,-rapid immersion fire extinguishing-that weaving process singes according to raw yarn-circular knitting machine weaving-open width
No-station pole canopy drying-tentering setting-stentering preshrinking-cuts across-the work flow weaving of reel member-storage.
The two-sided knitting fabric, fabric structure type are two-sided tissue.
The invention has the advantages that inner layer good hygroscopic fabric, cloth cover is smooth, smooth, there is bony, is not easy to wrinkle, surface layer
Fabric has flash of light varying effect, and the luxurious elegance of appearance is to make various female's fashionable dresses, tippet yarn, scarf and indoor decoration
The preferable fabric of product.
Specific embodiment
Embodiment 1
Fabric face yarn be 6.5tex viscose glues/Modal+metallized thread, viscose rayon 60%, Modal 40%, 12 μm of gold and silver
Silk individual layer multi-color cord；Fabric backing yarn be 11.8tex, fiber blend ratio:Modal fibre 30%, cotton fiber 70%.
Fabric face yarn spinning process:Using conventional cotton spinning equipment, blend fibre is through opening picking-cotton carding-drafting-thick
Yarn-spun yarn-winder-doubling-manufacturing procedure of twisting thread.Major parameter has：The quantification of 19g/5m of blend fibre cotton carding shaping, doffer's speed
It spends for 19r/min, cylinder speed 280r/min；Using three draftings, end quantitative 20/5m, end and back zone drafting multiple
1.5, sliver exporting speed 180r/min；Roving twist factor is 85, spindle speed be 650r/min, back zone drafting multiple 1.66, slightly
Yarn quantifies 4.58/10m；Spun yarn spindle speed is 12000r/min, yarn twist factor 340, back zone drafting multiple 1.2, spun yarn jaw every
Away from block 2.0mm；Winder relative humidity will be strict controlled between RH60%-65%；Using the classical approach of doubling wound package by two
The synthesis of root single thread and spool, notice that tension is consistent.
Fabric backing yarn spinning process：In equipment according to mixing preparation-opening picking-cotton carding-combing-drafting-rove-
The technological process spinning of spun yarn-winder.Major parameter has：It is required that the ratio in long-staple cotton and medium staple cotton Condition Weights（30/
40）It is mixed, Modal fibre is individually processed；Cotton rolling weight 400g/m, griping cotton machine Beater Speed 700r/min, opener comb
Pin Beater Speed 480r/min；Weight of card sliver 21g/5m, removable cover to cylinder gauge 0.28mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm,
0.23mm；Yarn quantifies 21g/5m；It is mixed using three, roller gauge is arranged to 9mm × 11mm × 19mm, and sliver exporting speed is
250m/min；Roving Frames use total draft multiple as 7.36 times, 1.21 times of back area draft, twist factor 85；Spinning process uses
Total draft multiple is 49.9 times, 1.25 times of back area draft, and the twist is 118 sth. made by twisting/10cm；, ingot speed 15000r/min；Winding speed is adopted
Use 900m/min.
Weaving and finishing technique：Raw yarn-circular knitting machine weaving-open width singes-and the fire extinguishing-no-station pole canopy drying-tentering that soaks rapidly is fixed
Shape-stentering preshrinking-cuts across-reel member-storage.202 grams/m of fabric weight, 165 centimetres of breadth, horizontal close 61 stringer/5
Centimetre, indulge close 95 row/5 centimetre.
Main technologic parameters are：Using partial circulating, manufacturing machine speed 22r/min；Blank cloth under circular knitting machine after machine is passed through to be stitched with cloth
Head can carry out singeing step after cuing open cloth, and the present invention singes suitable for doing open width, gassing frame speed 80m/min；Utilize plain net pine formula
Drying machine, speed about 30m/min；Using open-width boarding machine, 140 degree of spin manifold temperature, breadth setting 160cm, speed 22m/min；
In order to improve the feel of fabric and promote gloss, remaining washing shrinkage is further reduced using stentering preshrinking machine, heats roller temperature
125 degree.
Embodiment 2
Fabric face yarn be 8.5tex viscose glues/Modal+metallized thread, viscose rayon 70%, Modal 30%, 25 μm of gold and silver
Silk individual layer multi-color cord；Fabric backing yarn be 11.8tex, fiber blend ratio:Modal fibre 30%, cotton fiber 70%.
Fabric face yarn spinning process:Using conventional cotton spinning equipment, blend fibre is through opening picking-cotton carding-drafting-thick
Yarn-spun yarn-winder-doubling-manufacturing procedure of twisting thread.Major parameter has：The quantification of 22.5g/5m of blend fibre cotton carding shaping, doffer
Speed is 21r/min, cylinder speed 300r/min；Using three draftings, end quantitative 23.5/5m, end and back area draft
Multiple 1.4, sliver exporting speed is in 260r/min；Roving twist factor is 85, spindle speed be 850r/min, back zone drafting multiple
1.25, regular roving feeding 6.5g/10m；Spun yarn spindle speed is 14500r/min, yarn twist factor 330, back zone drafting multiple 1.2, spun yarn
Nip gauge block 3.0mm；Winder relative humidity will be strict controlled between RH60%-65%；Using the classics of doubling wound package
Two single thread are synthesized simultaneously spool by method, notice that tension is consistent.
Fabric backing yarn spinning process：In equipment according to mixing preparation-opening picking-cotton carding-combing-drafting-rove-
The technological process spinning of spun yarn-winder.Major parameter has：It is required that the ratio in long-staple cotton medium staple cotton Condition Weights（30/
40）It is mixed, Modal fibre is individually processed；Cotton rolling weight 400g/m, griping cotton machine Beater Speed 700r/min, opener comb
Pin Beater Speed 480r/min；Weight of card sliver 21g/5m, removable cover to cylinder gauge 0.28mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm,
0.23mm；Yarn quantifies 21g/5m；It is mixed using three, roller gauge is arranged to 9mm × 11mm × 19mm, and sliver exporting speed is
250m/min；Roving Frames use total draft multiple as 7.36 times, 1.21 times of back area draft, twist factor 85；Spinning process uses
Total draft multiple is 49.9 times, 1.25 times of back area draft, and the twist is 118 sth. made by twisting/10cm；Ingot speed 15000r/min；Winding speed is adopted
Use 900m/min.
Weaving and finishing technique：Raw yarn-circular knitting machine weaving-open width singes-and the fire extinguishing-no-station pole canopy drying-tentering that soaks rapidly is fixed
Shape-stentering preshrinking-cuts across-reel member-storage.220 grams/m of fabric weight, 185 centimetres of breadth, horizontal close 70 stringer/5
Centimetre, indulge close 85 row/5 centimetre
Main technologic parameters are：Using partial circulating, manufacturing machine speed 24r/min；Blank cloth under circular knitting machine after machine is passed through to be stitched with cloth
Head can carry out singeing step after cuing open cloth, and the present invention singes suitable for doing open width, gassing frame speed 85m/min；Utilize plain net pine formula
Drying machine, speed about 30m/min；Using open-width boarding machine, 150 degree of spin manifold temperature, breadth setting 180cm, speed 25m/min；
In order to improve the feel of fabric and promote gloss, remaining washing shrinkage is further reduced using stentering preshrinking machine, heats roller temperature
150 degree.
Embodiment 3
Fabric face yarn be 9.5tex viscose glues/Modal+metallized thread, viscose rayon 65%, Modal 35%, 12 μm of gold and silver
Silk individual layer multi-color cord；Fabric backing yarn be 11.8tex, fiber blend ratio:Modal fibre 30%, cotton fiber 70%.
Fabric face yarn spinning process:Using conventional cotton spinning equipment, blend fibre is through opening picking-cotton carding-drafting-thick
Yarn-spun yarn-winder-doubling-manufacturing procedure of twisting thread.Major parameter has：Blend fibre cotton carding shaping is 23g/5m, and doffer speed is
25r/min, cylinder speed 320r/min；Using three draftings, end quantitative 22/5m, end and back zone drafting multiple 1.6,
Sliver exporting speed is 200r/min；Roving twist factor is 90, and spindle speed is 700r/min, and back zone drafting multiple 1.36, rove is fixed
Measure 5.8/10m；Spun yarn spindle speed is 13000r/min, yarn twist factor 336, back zone drafting multiple 1.3, spun yarn nip gauge block
2.5mm；Winder relative humidity will be strict controlled in RH65% or so；Two single thread are closed using the classical approach of doubling wound package
Into simultaneously spool, notice that tension is consistent.
Fabric backing yarn spinning process：In equipment according to mixing preparation-opening picking-cotton carding-combing-drafting-rove-
The technological process spinning of spun yarn-winder.Major parameter has：It is required that the ratio in long-staple cotton and medium staple cotton Condition Weights（30/
40）It is mixed, Modal fibre is individually processed；Cotton rolling weight 400g/m, griping cotton machine Beater Speed 700r/min, opener comb
Pin Beater Speed 480r/min；Weight of card sliver 21g/5m, removable cover to cylinder gauge 0.28mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm,
0.23mm；Yarn quantifies 21g/5m；It is mixed using three, roller gauge is arranged to 9mm × 11mm × 19mm, and sliver exporting speed is
250m/min；Roving Frames use total draft multiple as 7.36 times, 1.21 times of back area draft, twist factor 85；Spinning process uses
Total draft multiple is 49.9 times, 1.25 times of back area draft, and the twist is 118 sth. made by twisting/10cm；, ingot speed 15000r/min；Winding speed is adopted
Use 900m/min.
Weaving and finishing technique：Raw yarn-circular knitting machine weaving-open width singes-and the fire extinguishing-no-station pole canopy drying-tentering that soaks rapidly is fixed
Shape-stentering preshrinking-cuts across-reel member-storage.240 grams/m of fabric weight, 175 centimetres of breadth, horizontal close 68 stringer/5
Centimetre, indulge close 96 row/5 centimetre.
Main technologic parameters are：Using partial circulating, manufacturing machine speed 27r/min；Blank cloth under circular knitting machine after machine is passed through to be stitched with cloth
Head can carry out singeing step after cuing open cloth, and the present invention singes suitable for doing open width, gassing frame speed 90m/min；Utilize plain net pine formula
Drying machine, speed about 35m/min；Using open-width boarding machine, 130 degree of spin manifold temperature, breadth setting 170cm, speed 26m/min；
In order to improve the feel of fabric and promote gloss, remaining washing shrinkage is further reduced using stentering preshrinking machine, heats roller temperature
140 degree.
Claims (3)
1. it is a kind of have flash of light varying effect fabric, which is characterized in that fabric face yarn for 6.5tex viscose glues/Modal+
Metallized thread, viscose rayon 60%, Modal 40%, 12 μm of metallized thread individual layer multi-color cords；Fabric backing yarn is 11.8tex, and fiber mixes
Spin ratio:Modal fibre 30%, cotton fiber 70%；
Fabric face yarn spinning process:Using conventional cotton spinning equipment, blend fibre through opening picking-cotton carding-drafting-rove-
Spun yarn-winder-doubling-manufacturing procedure of twisting thread；Major parameter has：The quantification of 19g/5m of blend fibre cotton carding shaping, doffer speed
For 19r/min, cylinder speed 280r/min；Using three draftings, end quantitative 20g/5m, end and back zone drafting multiple
1.5, sliver exporting speed 180r/min；Roving twist factor is 85, spindle speed be 650r/min, back zone drafting multiple 1.66, slightly
Yarn quantifies 4.58g/10m；Spun yarn spindle speed is 12000r/min, yarn twist factor 340, back zone drafting multiple 1.2, spun yarn jaw every
Away from block 2.0mm；Winder relative humidity will be strict controlled between RH60%-65%；Using the classical approach of doubling wound package by two
The synthesis of root single thread and spool；
Fabric backing yarn spinning process：According to mixing preparation-opening picking-cotton carding-combing-drafting-rove-thin in equipment
The technological process spinning of yarn-winder；Major parameter has：It is required that the ratio 30/40 in long-staple cotton and medium staple cotton Condition Weights
It is mixed, Modal fibre is individually processed；Cotton rolling weight 400g/m, griping cotton machine Beater Speed 700r/min, opener card wire
Beater Speed 480r/min；Weight of card sliver 21g/5m, removable cover to cylinder gauge 0.28mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm,
0.23mm；Yarn quantifies 21g/5m；It is mixed using three, roller gauge is arranged to 9mm × 11mm × 19mm, and sliver exporting speed is
250m/min；Roving Frames use total draft multiple as 7.36 times, 1.21 times of back area draft, twist factor 85；Spinning process uses
Total draft multiple is 49.9 times, 1.25 times of back area draft, and the twist is 118 sth. made by twisting/10cm；, ingot speed 15000r/min；Winding speed is adopted
Use 900m/min；
Weaving and finishing technique：Raw yarn-circular knitting machine weaving-open width singes-fire extinguishing-no-station pole canopy drying-tentering setting-drawing of soaking rapidly
Width preshrunk-cut across-reel member-storage；202 grams/m of fabric weight, 165 centimetres of breadth, horizontal close 61 stringer/5 centimetre,
Indulge close 95 row/5 centimetre.
2. it is a kind of have flash of light varying effect fabric, which is characterized in that fabric face yarn for 8.5tex viscose glues/Modal+
Metallized thread, viscose rayon 70%, Modal 30%, 25 μm of metallized thread individual layer multi-color cords；Fabric backing yarn is 11.8tex, and fiber mixes
Spin ratio:Modal fibre 30%, cotton fiber 70%；
Fabric face yarn spinning process:Using conventional cotton spinning equipment, blend fibre through opening picking-cotton carding-drafting-rove-
Spun yarn-winder-doubling-manufacturing procedure of twisting thread；Major parameter has：The quantification of 22.5g/5m of blend fibre cotton carding shaping, doffer's speed
It spends for 21r/min, cylinder speed 300r/min；Using three draftings, end quantitative 23.5g/5m, end and back area draft times
Number 1.4, sliver exporting speed is in 260r/min；Roving twist factor is 85, spindle speed be 850r/min, back zone drafting multiple 1.25,
Regular roving feeding 6.5g/10m；Spun yarn spindle speed is 14500r/min, yarn twist factor 330, back zone drafting multiple 1.2, spun yarn jaw
Spacing block 3.0mm；Winder relative humidity will be strict controlled between RH60%-65%；It will using the classical approach of doubling wound package
Two single thread synthesis and spool；
Fabric backing yarn spinning process：According to mixing preparation-opening picking-cotton carding-combing-drafting-rove-thin in equipment
The technological process spinning of yarn-winder；Major parameter has：It is required that in long-staple cotton medium staple cotton Condition Weights 30/40 ratio into
Row mixes, and Modal fibre is individually processed；Cotton rolling weight 400g/m, griping cotton machine Beater Speed 700r/min, opener card wire are beaten
Hand speed 480r/min；Weight of card sliver 21g/5m, removable cover to cylinder gauge 0.28mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.23mm；
Yarn quantifies 21g/5m；It is mixed simultaneously using three, roller gauge is arranged to 9mm × 11mm × 19mm, sliver exporting speed 250m/
min；Roving Frames use total draft multiple as 7.36 times, 1.21 times of back area draft, twist factor 85；Spinning process uses total draft
Multiple is 49.9 times, 1.25 times of back area draft, and the twist is 118 sth. made by twisting/10cm；Ingot speed 15000r/min；Winding speed uses 900m/
min；
Weaving and finishing technique：Raw yarn-circular knitting machine weaving-open width singes-fire extinguishing-no-station pole canopy drying-tentering setting-drawing of soaking rapidly
Width preshrunk-cut across-reel member-storage；220 grams/m of fabric weight, 185 centimetres of breadth, horizontal close 70 stringer/5 centimetre,
Indulge close 85 row/5 centimetre.
3. it is a kind of have flash of light varying effect fabric, which is characterized in that fabric face yarn for 9.5tex viscose glues/Modal+
Metallized thread, viscose rayon 65%, Modal 35%, 12 μm of metallized thread individual layer multi-color cords；Fabric backing yarn is 11.8tex, and fiber mixes
Spin ratio:Modal fibre 30%, cotton fiber 70%；
Fabric face yarn spinning process:Using conventional cotton spinning equipment, blend fibre through opening picking-cotton carding-drafting-rove-
Spun yarn-winder-doubling-manufacturing procedure of twisting thread；Major parameter has：Blend fibre cotton carding shaping is 23g/5m, and doffer speed is
25r/min, cylinder speed 320r/min；Using three draftings, end quantitative 22g/5m, end and back zone drafting multiple 1.6,
Sliver exporting speed is 200r/min；Roving twist factor is 90, and spindle speed is 700r/min, and back zone drafting multiple 1.36, rove is fixed
Measure 5.8g/10m；Spun yarn spindle speed is 13000r/min, yarn twist factor 336, back zone drafting multiple 1.3, spun yarn nip gauge block
2.5mm；Winder relative humidity will be strict controlled in RH65%；Two single thread are synthesized simultaneously using the classical approach of doubling wound package
Spool；
Fabric backing yarn spinning process：According to mixing preparation-opening picking-cotton carding-combing-drafting-rove-thin in equipment
The technological process spinning of yarn-winder；Major parameter has：It is required that the ratio in long-staple cotton and medium staple cotton Condition Weights 30/40
It is mixed, Modal fibre is individually processed；Cotton rolling weight 400g/m, griping cotton machine Beater Speed 700r/min, opener card wire
Beater Speed 480r/min；Weight of card sliver 21g/5m, removable cover to cylinder gauge 0.28mm, 0.25mm, 0.23mm,
0.23mm；Yarn quantifies 21g/5m；It is mixed simultaneously using three, roller gauge is arranged to 9mm × 11mm × 19mm, and sliver exporting speed is
250m/min；Roving Frames use total draft multiple as 7.36 times, 1.21 times of back area draft, twist factor 85；Spinning process uses
Total draft multiple is 49.9 times, 1.25 times of back area draft, and the twist is 118 sth. made by twisting/10cm；, ingot speed 15000r/min；Winding speed is adopted
Use 900m/min；
Weaving and finishing technique：Raw yarn-circular knitting machine weaving-open width singes-fire extinguishing-no-station pole canopy drying-tentering setting-drawing of soaking rapidly
Width preshrunk-cut across-reel member-storage；240 grams/m of fabric weight, 175 centimetres of breadth, horizontal close 68 stringer/5 centimetre,
Indulge close 96 row/5 centimetre.
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| CN106521782A (en) * | 2016-12-20 | 2017-03-22 | 江苏东源纺织科技实业有限公司 | Golden-filament health double-side cloth |
| CN107237019A (en) * | 2017-06-12 | 2017-10-10 | 海盐桐基羊绒纺业有限公司 | A kind of production technology of hidden color yarn |
| CN107653535B (en) * | 2017-11-07 | 2019-06-04 | 浙江中鼎纺织有限公司 | The preparation method of complex yarn with flash effect |
| CN108468145A (en) * | 2018-01-19 | 2018-08-31 | 江阴市德莱新面料有限公司 | The production method of spun gold vertical bar drawn needle single jersey |
| CN115198415A (en) * | 2022-08-19 | 2022-10-18 | 上海群德纺织科技有限公司 | Novel half-cashmere fancy yarn and preparation method thereof |
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| JP3567266B2 (en) * | 2000-07-10 | 2004-09-22 | ワシオ株式会社 | Circular knitted fabric manufacturing equipment |
| CN102560790A (en) * | 2012-01-12 | 2012-07-11 | 宁波双鸟带业有限公司 | Method for processing floss silk containing metallic yarns |
| CN103202547A (en) * | 2013-03-27 | 2013-07-17 | 江阴芗菲服饰有限公司 | Knitted sweater made of rare-earth luminous fibers and method for manufacturing knitted sweater |
| CN103156302B (en) * | 2013-03-27 | 2015-02-18 | 江阴芗菲服饰有限公司 | Aloe/viscose/modal function sweater and manufacture method thereof |
| CN103510247A (en) * | 2013-09-29 | 2014-01-15 | 吴江市凌通纺织整理有限公司 | Multifunctional glittery fabric |
| CN103882614B (en) * | 2014-03-25 | 2016-04-27 | 江苏云蝠服饰股份有限公司 | Ox suede/model antarafacial knit fabric |
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