CN105496935B - 具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物及其制备方法和应用 - Google Patents
具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物及其制备方法和应用 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明提供一种具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物，更具体地提供一种含有当归、厚朴、姜黄、蛇床子、香茅、甘草和金银花的祛痘化妆品组合物。该组合物具有良好的祛痘功效，且不易反复，没有发现有依赖性。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品领域，具体涉及一种具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物及其制备方法和应用。
背景技术
青春痘，又名痤疮，是一种好发于颜面、胸、背部的毛囊及皮脂腺的慢性炎症性皮肤病。其典型皮损表现为粉剌(包括闭口及开口粉刺)、丘瘆、脓痕、结节及囊肿。青春痘的发生主要与皮脂分泌过多、毛囊皮脂腺导管堵塞、细菌感染和炎症反应等因素密切相关。进入青春期后人体内雄激素特别是睾酮的水平迅速升高，促进皮脂腺发育并产生大量皮脂。同时毛囊皮脂腺导管的角化异常造成导管堵塞，皮脂排出障碍，形成角质栓即微粉刺。毛囊中多种微生物尤其是痤疮丙酸杆菌大量繁殖，痤疮丙酸杆菌产生的脂酶分解皮脂生成游离脂肪酸，同时趋化炎症细胞和介质，最终诱导并加重炎症反应。青春痘严重影响人的容貌和自信，对人们的工作、生活产生消极影响，因此祛痘是化妆品的研究焦点之一。
目前市面上针对青春痘的祛痘产品比较多，但是基本为抑菌杀菌剂，有些甚至使用氯霉素、克林霉素等抗生素，这类产品的特点是见效快，易反复，容易产生依赖性。本发明的发明者对上述问题进行了深入研究，结果发现主要原因为皮肤的微生态环境受到了破坏。上述祛痘产品在抑杀有害菌群(主要是痤疮丙酸杆菌和金黄葡萄球菌)的同时，对皮肤表面的益生菌群(主要是乳酸杆菌)有同样的杀灭作用，导致皮肤的微生态环境受到破坏，有益菌群竞争性抑制有害菌群的功能丧失，皮肤处于易感染状态，导致青春痘易反复，对祛痘产品产生依赖性。
发明内容
如上所述，本发明的目的在于提供一种祛痘化妆品组合物，该祛痘化妆品组合物对痤疮丙酸杆菌等有害菌有较强的抑杀作用，但对有益菌没有影响或影响很弱，在祛痘的同时能保护好皮肤的微生态环境，从而实现祛痘效果持久不反复。
为解决上述技术问题，本发明的发明人对祛痘原料进行了深入研究，惊讶的发现特定的祛痘中药组合物(当归、厚朴、姜黄、蛇床子、香茅、甘草和金银花)对痤疮丙酸杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌等有害菌有较强的抑杀作用，但对乳酸杆菌等有益菌影响很弱，组合物具有良好的祛痘功效，且不易反复，没有发现有依赖性。
本发明的祛痘组合物是由以下原料提取制备得到的，按重量份计，所述原料包括：当归20～30份、厚朴20～30份、姜黄10～20份、蛇床子10～20份、香茅10～20份、甘草10～20份、金银花10～20份。
在其中一个实施例中，本发明所述的祛痘组合物是由以下原料提取制备得到的，按重量份计，所述原料包括：当归25份、厚朴30份、姜黄10份、蛇床子15份、香茅15份、甘草15份、金银花20份。
上述的祛痘化妆品组合物的制备方法可以通过常规生产工艺制备，在本发明的较佳实施方式中，其包括以下步骤：
(1)称取当归、厚朴、姜黄、蛇床子、香茅、甘草和金银花，混合，粉碎；
(2)按照重量比1：1～1：3的比例将原料浸泡在蜂王浆中5～10小时，晾干；
(3)将步骤(2)所制得的原料加入到60～90％的乙醇中，升温到40～50℃，加压1～10MPa，在回流和浸渍下进行萃取1～3小时，随后减压蒸发乙醇，获得浓缩液。
(4)按照重量比1：1～1：3的比例向步骤(3)所制得的浓缩液中加入1,3-丙二醇，抽滤，离心取上清液，即得。
上述步骤(2)中采用中药蜜炙的办法，用蜂王浆浸泡中药组合物，增强了有效物的溶解，从而提高有效物的萃取量；蜂王浆本身具有促进细胞再生、抗菌消炎、护肤美容的效果，能够增强提取液的护肤功效。
上述步骤(3)采用了低温高压萃取法，将温度控制在40～50℃的低温，确保了热敏成分不损失，将压力增加到1～10MPa，促进了有效成分的溶出萃取率。
上述步骤(4)采用1,3-丙二醇作为溶剂，1,3-丙二醇是一种微生物发酵来源的原料，来源天然，温和无刺激，不会对产品造成污染或负作用。
本发明还提供了一种祛痘啫喱，包括以下质量百分比的组分：如前所述的祛痘化妆品组合物1～5％、EDTA-2Na 0.01～0.05％、1,3-丙二醇5～10％、卡波姆0.2～0.5％、透明质酸钠0.01～0.05％、尿囊素0.05～0.3％、1,2-戊二醇1～3％、冰片0.05～0.2％、金缕梅提取物0.5～3％、薄荷提取物0.5～3％、木瓜蛋白酶0.1～1％、精氨酸0.2～0.5％、低聚果糖0.1～1％、水余量。
本发明所述的祛痘啫喱复配了冰片和1,2-戊二醇，其目的在于促进产品的渗透；复配了金缕梅提取物和薄荷提取物，其目的在于控制皮肤过多的油脂分泌；复配了木瓜蛋白酶，有利于去除老废角质，打开毛孔通道；复配了低聚果糖，低聚果糖对有益菌的生长有促进作用，进一步地维护皮肤微生态环境。本发明所述的祛痘啫喱的各种原料各有特色，相互促进，实现了协同的祛痘作用。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施方式对本发明的作更详细的描述，但本发明的实施方式不限于此，对于未特别注明的工艺参数或条件，可参照常规技术进行。
实施例1祛痘组合物的制备
(1)称取当归20份、厚朴25份、姜黄20份、蛇床子20份、香茅10份、甘草20份和金银花10份，混合，粉碎；
(2)按照重量比1：1的比例将原料浸泡在蜂王浆中10小时，晾干；
(3)将步骤(2)所制得的原料加入到60％的乙醇中，升温到40℃，加压10MPa，在回流和浸渍下进行萃取1小时，随后减压蒸发乙醇，获得浓缩液。
(4)按照重量比1：1的比例向步骤(3)所制得的浓缩液中加入1,3-丙二醇，抽滤，离心取上清液，即得。
实施例2祛痘组合物的制备
(1)称取当归25份、厚朴30份、姜黄10份、蛇床子15份、香茅15份、甘草15份和金银花20份，混合，粉碎；
(2)按照重量比1：2的比例将原料浸泡在蜂王浆中8小时，晾干；
(3)将步骤(2)所制得的原料加入到75％的乙醇中，升温到45℃，加压5MPa，在回流和浸渍下进行萃取2小时，随后减压蒸发乙醇，获得浓缩液。
(4)按照重量比1：2的比例向步骤(3)所制得的浓缩液中加入1,3-丙二醇，抽滤，离心取上清液，即得。
实施例3祛痘组合物的制备
(1)称取当归30份、厚朴20份、姜黄15份、蛇床子10份、香茅20份、甘草10份和金银花15份，混合，粉碎；
(2)按照重量比1：3的比例将原料浸泡在蜂王浆中5小时，晾干；
(3)将步骤(2)所制得的原料加入到90％的乙醇中，升温到50℃，加压1MPa，在回流和浸渍下进行萃取3小时，随后减压蒸发乙醇，获得浓缩液。
(4)按照重量比1：3的比例向步骤(3)所制得的浓缩液中加入1,3-丙二醇，抽滤，离心取上清液，即得。
实施例4祛痘组合物的制备
(1)称取当归25份、厚朴30份、姜黄10份、蛇床子15份、香茅15份、甘草15份和金银花20份，混合，粉碎；
(2)按照重量比1：2的比例将原料浸泡在水中8小时，晾干；
(3)将步骤(2)所制得的原料加入到75％的乙醇中，升温到45℃，加压5MPa，在回流和浸渍下进行萃取2小时，随后减压蒸发乙醇，获得浓缩液。
(4)按照重量比1：2的比例向步骤(3)所制得的浓缩液中加入1,3-丙二醇，抽滤，离心取上清液，即得。
实施例5祛痘组合物的抑菌实验
本发明对所述的祛痘化妆品组合物进行抑菌实验，以实施例1～4所制备的祛痘化妆品组合物为实验组1～4，设计了对照组1～4，并以市售祛痘产品1支作为对照组5。
一、对照组的制备
对照组1的制备方法包括如下步骤：
(1)称取当归5份、厚朴30份、姜黄10份、蛇床子15份、香茅15份、甘草15份和金银花20份，混合，粉碎；
(2)按照重量比1：2的比例将原料浸泡在蜂王浆中8小时，晾干；
(3)将步骤(2)所制得的原料加入到75％的乙醇中，升温到45℃，加压5MPa，在回流和浸渍下进行萃取2小时，随后减压蒸发乙醇，获得浓缩液。
(4)按照重量比1：2的比例向步骤(3)所制得的浓缩液中加入1,3-丙二醇，抽滤，离心取上清液，即得。
对照组2的制备方法包括如下步骤：
(1)称取当归25份、姜黄10份、蛇床子15份、香茅15份、甘草15份和金银花20份，混合，粉碎；
(2)生产工艺同对照组1，制得提取物。
对照组3的制备方法包括如下步骤：
(1)称取当归25份、厚朴30份、蛇床子15份、香茅15份、甘草15份和金银花20份，混合，粉碎；
(2)生产工艺同对照组1，制得提取物。
对照组4的制备方法包括如下步骤：
(1)称取当归25份、厚朴30份、蛇床子15份、甘草15份和金银花20份，混合，粉碎；
(2)生产工艺同对照组1，制得提取物。
二、实验1
本实验按照【日用化学品科学】2004年12月第27卷第12期中的《祛痘化妆品祛痘功效评价方法的研究》所记载的“溶出性抗(抑)菌产品抑菌性能试验方法”方法测定了实验组1～4和对照组1～5的抑菌率(见表1)。
表1祛痘组合物对不同菌种的抑菌率
| 痤疮丙酸杆菌 | 金黄色葡萄球菌 | 乳酸杆菌 | |
| 实验组1 | 92％ | 95％ | 10％ |
| 实验组2 | 95％ | 99％ | 20％ |
| 实验组3 | 93％ | 94％ | 16％ |
| 实验组4 | 85％ | 83％ | 26％ |
| 对照组1 | 65％ | 53％ | 28％ |
| 对照组2 | 55％ | 42％ | 19％ |
| 对照组3 | 40％ | 50％ | 22％ |
| 对照组4 | 50％ | 38％ | 25％ |
| 对照组5 | 99％ | 95％ | 85％ |
由表1可知，实验组1～4与对照组5的抑菌率比较，实验组1～4与对照组5对痤疮丙酸杆菌和金黄色葡萄球菌的抑菌率接近，对照组5对乳酸杆菌的抑菌率明显要高，说明本发明所制备的祛痘化妆品组合物对有害菌的抑杀能力强，对有益菌的抑制率低；实验组1～3与实验组4的抑菌率对比，说明采用蜜炙工艺所制备的祛痘组合物抑菌率更高；实验组1～4与对照组1～4的抑菌率比较，实验组1～4对痤疮丙酸杆菌和金黄色葡萄球菌的抑菌率明显要高，说明特定比例和特定原料的祛痘组合物有协同作用，效果有极大的提升。
实施例6祛痘凝胶的制备
制造工艺：
(1)、准确称取EDTA-2Na、1,3-丙二醇、卡波姆、透明质酸钠、尿囊素、1,2-戊二醇、低聚果糖和水，混合，加热至80～85℃，分散均匀；(2)、降温至40～45℃，依次加入冰片、祛痘化妆品组合物、金缕梅提取物、薄荷提取物、木瓜蛋白酶、精氨酸，搅拌均匀即可。
实施例7祛痘凝胶的制备
制造工艺同实施例6。
实施例8祛痘凝胶的制备
制造工艺同实施例6。
实施例9祛痘功效评价
对实施例6～8所制备的产品进行试用检测效果，同时以一款市售的宣称具有良好祛痘功效的啫喱为对照组。测试对象：各实验组均为10名长有青春痘的志愿者(男女各半、18-25岁)；测试区域：脸部青春痘区域；使用：每天两次，持续使用1周；测试方法：使用祛痘产品1周后，观察青春痘去除情况。停用祛痘产品4周后，再观察青春痘的复发情况。具体结果如下表2。
表2祛痘测试功效评价表
从表2可知，实施例6～7所制备的祛痘产品祛痘效果与对照组类似，但是对照组产品有较高的复发率。
以上所述实施例仅表达了本发明的几种实施方式，其描述较为具体和详细，但并不能因此而理解为对本发明专利范围的限制。应当指出的是，对于本领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明构思的前提下，还可以做出若干变形和改进，这些都属于本发明的保护范围。因此，本发明专利的保护范围应以所附权利要求为准。
Claims (7)
1.一种具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物，其特征在于，所述组合物的原料为：当归20~30重量份、厚朴20~30重量份、姜黄10~20重量份、蛇床子10~20重量份、香茅10~20重量份、甘草10~20重量份、金银花10~20重量份。
2.一种权利要求1所述的具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物，其特征在于，所述组合物的原料为：当归25份、厚朴30份、姜黄10份、蛇床子15份、香茅15份、甘草15份、金银花20份。
3.一种权利要求 1所述的具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物的制备方法，其特征在于，所述方法步骤如下：
(1)按照权利要求 1 所述重量份配比称取原料，混合，粉碎；
(2)按照重量比1：1~1：3的比例将原料浸泡在蜂王浆中5~10小时，晾干；
(3)将步骤（2）所制得的原料加入到60~90% 的乙醇中，升温到40~50℃，加压1~10MPa，在回流和浸渍下进行萃取1~3小时，随后，用滤布对提取液进行过滤，获得浓缩液；
(4)按照重量比1：1~1：3的比例向步骤（3）所制得的浓缩液中加入1,3-丙二醇，抽滤，离心取上清液，即得。
4.一种具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物，其特征在于，所述具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物是由权利要求3所述方法制备得到的。
5.权利要求4所述具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物在制备具有祛痘功效的护肤制剂中的用途。
6.一种具有祛痘功效的护肤制剂，其特征在于，所述护肤制剂由权利要求4所述具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物及护肤品领域常用辅料制备而成。
7.一种具有祛痘功效的护肤组合物，其特征在于，所述护肤组合物由下述质量百分比的原料组成：
权利要求4所述的具有祛痘功效的化妆品组合物 1~5%
EDTA-2Na 0.01~0.05%
1,3-丙二醇 5~10%
卡波姆 0.2~0.5%
透明质酸钠 0.01~0.05%
尿囊素 0.05~0.3%
1,2-戊二醇1~3%
冰片 0.05~0.2%
金缕梅提取物 0.5~3%
薄荷提取物0.5~3%
木瓜蛋白酶 0.1~1%
精氨酸 0.2~0.5%
低聚果糖0.1~1%
水余量。
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| CN107898681A (zh) * | 2017-11-17 | 2018-04-13 | 珠海姗拉娜化妆品有限公司 | 一种新型祛痘天然提取组合物、祛痘霜及其制备方法 |
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| CN103432536B (zh) * | 2013-09-27 | 2014-11-19 | 唐荣兰 | 一种治疗痤疮的中药组合物及其制备方法 |
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