CN104695246A - Printing color paste and printing silk twill production technology - Google Patents

Printing color paste and printing silk twill production technology Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104695246A
CN104695246A CN201510096249.1A CN201510096249A CN104695246A CN 104695246 A CN104695246 A CN 104695246A CN 201510096249 A CN201510096249 A CN 201510096249A CN 104695246 A CN104695246 A CN 104695246A
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China
Prior art keywords
silk
silk twill
twill
stamp
printing
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CN201510096249.1A
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Inventor
赵晓华
仲黎
付宏杰
孙青锋
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Shanghai Zhao Wu Brand Management Limited
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Shanghai Zhaowu Clothing Technology Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201510096249.1A priority Critical patent/CN104695246A/en
Publication of CN104695246A publication Critical patent/CN104695246A/en
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Abstract

The invention discloses printing color paste. The printing color paste comprises the following components in parts by mass: 8%-12% of a printing paste material, 8%-10% of urea, 0.01%-5% of dye, and the balance being water, wherein the range of the dye molecular weight is 500-800. The printing paste material is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 18-20% of a modified guar gum seed extract, 0.8-1.2% of a preservative and the balance being water. The invention also provides a printing silk twill production technology comprising the following steps: weaving silk twill, carrying out refinement treatment on the silk twill, printing the silk twill by adopting the printing paste, steaming, rinsing, drying, fixing color, tentering and thermosetting. By the improvement of the weaving process and the printing paste, the heavy printing silk twill prepared by adopting the printing silk twill production technology is delicate in pattern, is good in printing paste permeation, and is clear in color and pattern in front and back surfaces.

Description

A kind of print paste and stamp silk twill production technology
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of print paste and stamp silk twill production technology, this print paste and stamp silk twill production technology may be used for preparing heavy pound stamp silk twill.
Background technology
Silk fabric is thin only bright and clean, and have gloss soft, quality is frivolous, soft and high resilience, and hygroscopicity is strong, magnificent noble quality, to characteristics such as body-cares, can be made into clothes, ornament, indoor article, handicraft etc.Heavy-weight silk is the twice silk amount with common silk fabric, forms through special process is spinning, and outward appearance is graceful, gloss is soft, comfortable and easy to wear.Heavy-weight silk except possessing the feature of common silk fabrics, also have shrink-proof, well-pressed, easily arrange, not easily scratch, fabric weight is greater than 40g/m 2, fabric is fine and closely woven abundant, and feel is soft lubricious, and sense of hanging down is powerful, elegant quality.Be not only the desirable fabric making autumn and winter jacket, wind coat, ladies' suit, and summer Men's Casual Wear, fitted pants and one-piece dress for lady Fashion, become dress to wear to the noble magnificent sensation of people.
Silk twill is a kind of real silk fabric being organized as the similar drillipg of twill structure, and cloth cover has obvious oblique lines, good hand touch, gloss, elasticity better.The silk twill positive and negative printed color difference of below the 14MM of prior art is little, silk twill positive and negative stamp is clear.But heavy-weight silk twill silk stamp is more difficult.Such as 18.5MM silk twill, the raw material of employing is warp: 3/20/22D filature silk, warp density 74/CM; Parallel 5/20/22D filature silk, weft density 41/CM; The raw material that 20MM silk twill adopts is warp 3/20/22D filature silk, warp density 74/CM, parallel 5/20/22D filature silk, weft density 44/CM.The graticule density of these two kinds of heavy-weight silk twill silks spends height, fabric tightness is high, space between fiber is little, in stamp process, concentrator not easily passs through interfibrous space and penetrates into reverse side from the front of silk twill, causes that silk twill positive and negative printed color differs greatly, stamp is unintelligible.
Summary of the invention
In order to reduce heavy-weight silk twill silk positive and negative printed color difference, make heavy-weight silk twill silk positive and negative stamp clear, the invention provides a kind of print paste.
In order to solve above technical problem, technical scheme of the present invention is: a kind of print paste, comprises following component by mass fraction:
Printing gum 8% ~ 12%;
Urea 8% ~ 10%;
Dyestuff 0.01% ~ 5%; The scope of described dye molecule amount is 500 ~ 800;
All the other compositions are water;
Described printing gum is prepared from by the component of following mass fraction:
Modification melon glue seed extract 18 ~ 20%;
Preservative agent 0.8 ~ 1.2%,
All the other compositions are water.
The preparation method of described printing gum is by described modification melon glue seed extract, preservative agent and water, after mass fraction mixing, mixer stirs 45 ~ 50 minutes, then the H2SO4 of 5% is added, at 70 DEG C, be hydrolyzed 2 ~ 2.5 hours after mixing, then adding NaOH, to be neutralized to PH be 6.5 ~ 7.
As preferably, described print paste viscosity is 4000 ~ 5000CPS.
As preferably, described dyestuff is weak acid dye or reactive dye for wool.
Described reactive dye for wool is preferably LANASOL type reactive dye for wool, and described weak acid dye is preferably ERIONYL type dye.Wherein, described LANASOL type dye be selected from LANASOL Huang-4G, the black CE-PV of blue 8G-01, LANASOL dark blue B-01, LANASOL sauce of LANASOL bright red 3G, LANASOL red 6G, LANASOL red B, LANASOL blue 3G, LANASOL red CE, LANASOL palm fibre CE, LANASOL dark blue CE-R, LANASOL any one.Described ERIONYL type dye be selected from ERIONYL yellow A-R, ERIONYL red B-10B, ERIONY blue A-R, ERIONYL bright blue A-G and ERIONYL orange B-GRLS any one.
Compared with prior art, concentrator provided by the invention, printing gum adopts modification melon glue seed extract, and the scope of dye molecule amount is 500 ~ 800; Adopt this concentrator counterweight pound stamp silk twill stamp, flower pattern is meticulous, and concentrator infiltration is good, and heavy-weight silk twill silk positive and negative printed color difference reduces greatly, and positive and negative color and luster flower pattern is clear.
In order to solve above technical problem, the present invention also provides a kind of stamp silk twill production technology, comprises the following steps:
Step (1): weave silk twill, and refining treatment is carried out to described silk twill;
Step (2): stamp, adopts above-mentioned print paste to described silk twill stamp;
Step (3): decatize, adopts the saturated vapor of 102 DEG C ~ 108 DEG C by the silk twill after stamp, decatize 40 minutes ~ 50 minutes;
Step (4): washing, washes the silk twill after decatize 15 minutes ~ 20 minutes on open width continuous washing machine at 40 DEG C ~ 60 DEG C;
Step (5): dry, arranges the silk twill after washing through three-in-one blanket;
Step (6): fixation, by silk twill, the water be placed in containing 0.02% ~ 0.1% color-fixing agent pads, evenness calender, pressure 8KG, a leaching one is rolled.
Step (7): tentering is dried and HEAT SETTING, silk twill was processed for 20 seconds on tentering heat setting machine at 120 DEG C, obtains stamp silk twill.
As preferably, the 19.5MM silk twill that to be grammes per square metre be of silk twill described in step (1), the raw material warp of employing is 4/20/22D filature silk, warp density 55/CM; Parallel is 6/20/22D filature silk, weft density 37/CM, and grammes per square metre is 19.5MM.
Reasonably combined by graticule raw material choose and graticule density degree, adjustment silk twill institutional framework, add the fiber number of longitude and latitude raw material, reduce graticule density degree, increase the space between fiber, thus improve the penetrating power of print paste on silk twill, contribute to print paste and penetrate into reverse side from silk twill front, reduce silk twill positive and negative printed color difference, make silk twill positive and negative stamp clear, improve printing quality.
What graticule adopted is the high-grade filature silk of more than 5A level, and this type of filature silk silk gum fibroin content is uniform and stable, is conducive to thoroughly removing silk gum in scouring processes; do not damage fibroin simultaneously; the fineness of protection fabric, is conducive to dye material and penetrates into silk thread inside, and uniformly penetrating is to fabric backing.
As preferably, in step (1), use full-automatic decorating machine to described silk twill stamp.
As preferably, it is 2Kg ~ 4Kg that described full-automatic decorating machine scrapes pressure, in this pressure limit, contributes to improving print paste osmotic effect, avoid scraping simultaneously pressure excessive and produce scrape paste.
As preferably, described full-automatic decorating machine printing table temperature is 35 DEG C ~ 40 DEG C, in this temperature range, is conducive to the infiltration of print paste, avoids the too low fineness affecting flower pattern of Yin Wendu simultaneously.
As preferably, the mode that scrapes of described full-automatic decorating machine scrapes for jumping version; Screen Printing screen frame order number is 150 order ~ 180 orders.
Use full-automatic decorating machine to described silk twill stamp in step (1).
Full-automatic decorating machine controls to scrape pressure and printing table temperature automatically, keeps scraping pressure printing table temperature stabilization in stamp process, reduces silk twill positive and negative printed color difference, makes silk twill positive and negative stamp clear, improve printing quality.
Compared with prior art, stamp silk twill production technology provided by the invention, by the improvement to weaving process and concentrator, the heavy pound stamp silk twill flower pattern of preparation is meticulous, concentrator infiltration is good, heavy-weight silk twill silk positive and negative printed color difference reduces greatly, and positive and negative color and luster flower pattern is clear.The stamp silk twill adopting this production technology to prepare may be used for preparing heavy pound stamp silk twill scarf.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1
A kind of print paste, comprises following component by mass fraction:
Printing gum 8%;
Urea 10%;
Dyestuff, dyestuff used and percentage composition are shown in below table 1;
Water 79.92%;
Described printing gum is by the modification melon glue seed extract of 20%, the preservative agent of 1%, and the water of 79% is prepared from.
The preparation method of described printing gum: by modification melon glue seed extract, preservative agent and water, after mass fraction mixing, mixer stirs 45 minutes, then adds the H of 5% 2sO 4, fully after mixing, be hydrolyzed 2 hours at 70 DEG C after, adding NaOH, to be neutralized to PH be 6.5 ~ 7, and obtain printing gum molecular weight 10000 ~ 15000, paste making rate 18% ~ 20%, can be directly used in modulation print paste, the print paste viscosity of modulation is 4000CPS.
Wherein, modification melon glue seed extract (PS-14) is purchased from Italian LAMBERTI (Ning Baidi) company, and molecular weight is 30000 ~ 50000, paste making rate 10% ~ 12%.
A kind of stamp silk twill production technology, comprises the following steps:
Step (1): weave silk twill, and refining treatment is carried out to described silk twill;
Step (2): stamp, adopts above-mentioned print paste to described silk twill stamp;
Step (3): decatize, adopts the saturated vapor of 102 DEG C by the silk twill after stamp, decatize 40 minutes;
Step (4): washing, washes the silk twill after decatize 15 minutes on open width continuous washing machine at 40 DEG C;
Step (5): dry, arranges the silk twill after washing through three-in-one blanket;
Step (6): fixation, by silk twill, the water be placed in containing 0.1% color-fixing agent pads, evenness calender, pressure 8KG, and a leaching one is rolled;
Step (7): tentering dry and HEAT SETTING, silk twill is processed on tentering heat setting machine at 120 DEG C ~ 130 DEG C 20 second ~ 30 seconds, obtain stamp silk twill.
Described in step (1), silk twill is 19.5MM silk twill, and the raw material warp of employing is 4/20/22D filature silk, and warp density 55/CM parallel 6/20/22D filature silk, weft density 37/CM, grammes per square metre is 19.5MM.
Use full-automatic decorating machine to described silk twill stamp in step (1).
It is 2Kg that described full-automatic decorating machine scrapes pressure.
Printing table temperature is 35 DEG C; The mode that scrapes scrapes for jumping version; Screen Printing screen frame order number is 150 orders.
Use cylinder type rapid steamer to described silk twill decatize in step (3).
Test stamp silk twill K/S value, K/S relative intensity is more close to 1, and illustrate that positive and negative aberration is different less, test result is in table 1.
Test be the K/S value of stamp silk twill.Each silk scarf surveys the K/S value of one or two larger stamp block face (each colour examining point area 5 square centimeters) color.
Instrument PC Spectrophotometer colour photometer.
Model: HUNTERLAB, light source: D65.
Each color positive and negative respectively surveys four points, obtains K/S mean value.
K/S relative intensity=(K/S) reverse side/(K/S) front
Table 1: the K/S value of embodiment and comparative example when embodiment 1 selects different dyestuffs.
As can be seen from Table 1, compared with comparative example, the K/S value of embodiment is closer to 1, stamp silk twill production technology provided by the invention, by the improvement to weaving process and concentrator, the heavy pound stamp silk twill of preparation, concentrator infiltration is good, and heavy-weight silk twill silk positive and negative printed color difference reduces greatly.
Testing grammes per square metre in the K/S value and prior art that grammes per square metre provided by the invention is the silk twill of 19.5MM is the K/S value of the silk twill of 18.5MM, and test result is in table 2
Table 2 grammes per square metre provided by the invention is that in the K/S value of the silk twill of 19.5MM and prior art, grammes per square metre is the K/S value of the silk twill of 18.5MM.
As can be seen from Table 2, grammes per square metre provided by the invention be the silk twill K/S value of 19.5MM closer to 1, grammes per square metre provided by the invention is 19.5MM silk twill, and the raw material warp of employing is 4/20/22D filature silk, warp density 55/CM; Parallel 6/20/22D filature silk, weft density 37/CM, grammes per square metre is 19.5MM.By graticule raw material choose, warp density and weft density reasonably combined, adjustment silk twill institutional framework, add the fiber number of longitude and latitude raw material, reduce warp density and weft density, increase the space between fiber, thus improve the penetrating power of print paste on silk twill, contribute to print paste and penetrate into reverse side from silk twill front, reduce silk twill positive and negative printed color difference, make silk twill positive and negative stamp clear, improve printing quality.
Embodiment 2
A kind of print paste, comprises following component by mass fraction:
Printing gum 12%;
Urea 8%;
Dyestuff 0.628%;
Water 79.372%.
The scope of dye molecule amount is 500 ~ 800; The yellow 4G 0.56 of LANASOL selected by dyestuff;
The bright blue A-G of ERIONYL 0.068% forms.
All the other compositions are water;
Described printing gum is water by the modification melon glue seed extract of 18 ~ 20%, all the other compositions of preservative agent of 0.8 ~ 1.2%.
The preparation method of described printing gum: by modification melon glue seed extract, preservative agent and water, after mass fraction mixing, mixer stirs 50 minutes, then adds the H of 5% 2sO 4, fully after mixing, be hydrolyzed 2.5 hours at 70 DEG C after, adding NaOH, to be neutralized to PH be 6.5 ~ 7, and obtain printing gum molecular weight 10000 ~ 15000, paste making rate 20%, can be directly used in modulation print paste, the print paste viscosity of modulation is 5000CPS.
A kind of stamp silk twill production technology, comprises the following steps:
Step (1): weave silk twill, and refining treatment is carried out to described silk twill;
Step (2): stamp, adopts above-mentioned print paste to described silk twill stamp;
Step (3): decatize, adopts the saturated vapor of 108 DEG C by the silk twill after stamp, decatize 40 minutes ~ 50 minutes;
Step (4): washing, washes the silk twill after decatize 20 minutes on open width continuous washing machine at 60 DEG C;
Step (5): dry, arranges the silk twill after washing through three-in-one blanket;
Step (6): fixation, by silk twill, the water be placed in containing 0.02% color-fixing agent pads, evenness calender, pressure 8KG, and a leaching one is rolled.
Step (7): tentering is dried and HEAT SETTING, silk twill was processed for 30 seconds on tentering heat setting machine at 130 DEG C, obtains stamp silk twill.
Described in step (1), silk twill is 19.5MM silk twill, and the raw material warp of employing is 4/20/22D filature silk, warp density 55/CM; Parallel 6/20/22D filature silk, weft density 37/CM, grammes per square metre is 19.5MM.
Use full-automatic decorating machine to described silk twill stamp in step (1).
It is 4Kg that described full-automatic decorating machine scrapes pressure.
Printing table temperature is 40 DEG C; The mode that scrapes scrapes for jumping version; Screen Printing screen frame order number is 180 orders.
Use cylinder type rapid steamer to described silk twill decatize in step (3).
Those skilled in the art can carry out various change and modification to invention and not depart from the spirit and scope of the present invention.Like this, if these amendments of the present invention and modification belong within the scope of the claims in the present invention and equivalent technologies thereof, then the present invention is also intended to comprise these change and modification.

Claims (10)

1. a print paste, is characterized in that, comprises following component by mass fraction:
Printing gum 8% ~ 12%;
Urea 8% ~ 10%;
Dyestuff 0.01% ~ 5%; The scope of described dye molecule amount is 500 ~ 800;
All the other compositions are water;
Described printing gum is prepared from by the component of following mass fraction:
Modification melon glue seed extract 18 ~ 20%;
Preservative agent 0.8 ~ 1.2%,
All the other compositions are water.
2. print paste according to claim 1, is characterized in that, the preparation method of described printing gum is by described modification melon glue seed extract, preservative agent and water, and after mass fraction mixing, mixer stirs 45 ~ 50 minutes, then adds the H of 5% 2sO 4, after mixing, at 70 DEG C, be hydrolyzed 2 ~ 2.5 hours, then adding NaOH, to be neutralized to PH be 6.5 ~ 7.
3. print paste according to claim 1, is characterized in that, described print paste viscosity is 4000 ~ 5000CPS.
4. print paste according to claim 1, is characterized in that, described dyestuff is weak acid dye or reactive dye for wool.
5. a stamp silk twill production technology, is characterized in that, comprises the following steps:
Step (1): weave silk twill, and refining treatment is carried out to described silk twill;
Step (2): stamp, the print paste described in any one of employing Claims 1 to 4 is to described silk twill stamp;
Step (3): decatize, adopts the saturated vapor of 102 DEG C ~ 108 DEG C by the silk twill after stamp, decatize 40 minutes ~ 50 minutes;
Step (4): washing, washes the silk twill after decatize 15 minutes ~ 20 minutes on open width continuous washing machine at 40 DEG C ~ 60 DEG C;
Step (5): dry, arranges the silk twill after washing through three-in-one blanket;
Step (6): fixation, by silk twill, the water be placed in containing 0.02% ~ 0.1% color-fixing agent pads, evenness calender, pressure 8KG, and a leaching one is rolled;
Step (7): tentering dry and HEAT SETTING, silk twill is processed on tentering heat setting machine at 120 DEG C ~ 130 DEG C 20 second ~ 30 seconds, obtain stamp silk twill.
6. stamp silk twill production technology according to claim 5, it is characterized in that, the silk twill of to be grammes per square metre the be 19.5MM of silk twill described in step (1), the raw material warp of employing is 4/20/22D filature silk, warp density 55/CM; Parallel is 6/20/22D filature silk, weft density 37/CM, and grammes per square metre is 19.5MM.
7. stamp silk twill production technology according to claim 5, is characterized in that, uses full-automatic decorating machine to described silk twill stamp in step (1).
8. stamp silk twill production technology according to claim 7, is characterized in that, it is 2Kg ~ 4Kg that described full-automatic decorating machine scrapes pressure.
9. stamp silk twill production technology according to claim 7, is characterized in that, described full-automatic decorating machine printing table temperature is 35 DEG C ~ 40 DEG C.
10. stamp silk twill production technology according to claim 7, is characterized in that, the mode that scrapes of described full-automatic decorating machine scrapes for jumping version; Screen Printing screen frame order number is 150 order ~ 180 orders.
CN201510096249.1A 2015-03-04 2015-03-04 Printing color paste and printing silk twill production technology Pending CN104695246A (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105064080A (en) * 2015-07-16 2015-11-18 鑫缘茧丝绸集团股份有限公司 Real silk embossing process
CN105544250A (en) * 2015-12-18 2016-05-04 杭州华丝夏莎纺织科技有限公司 A printing method for thick silk fabric
CN107869074A (en) * 2017-11-29 2018-04-03 苏州润弘贸易有限公司 A kind of preparation method of thickener for printing in textiles
CN117265869A (en) * 2023-11-21 2023-12-22 淄博大染坊丝绸集团有限公司 Treatment process of real silk fabric

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105064080A (en) * 2015-07-16 2015-11-18 鑫缘茧丝绸集团股份有限公司 Real silk embossing process
CN105544250A (en) * 2015-12-18 2016-05-04 杭州华丝夏莎纺织科技有限公司 A printing method for thick silk fabric
CN107869074A (en) * 2017-11-29 2018-04-03 苏州润弘贸易有限公司 A kind of preparation method of thickener for printing in textiles
CN117265869A (en) * 2023-11-21 2023-12-22 淄博大染坊丝绸集团有限公司 Treatment process of real silk fabric
CN117265869B (en) * 2023-11-21 2024-01-30 淄博大染坊丝绸集团有限公司 Treatment process of real silk fabric

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