[summary of the invention]
The object of this invention is to provide a kind of real-silk dyed elastic fabric, this fabric rich color, smooth, comfortable, anti-draping over one's shoulders split, and productibility is strong.
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention adopts following technical scheme:
Real-silk dyed elastic fabric, it is the fabric that is woven into by warp and the parallel that comprises spandex through Final finishing, described parallel be by 23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m and 50D polyvinyl long filament by non-twist and synthesize non-twist and plying looping add and be twisted to 20D spandex surface, and be fixed to Z1750T/m self-control looping first latitude through dry blowing, S1750T/m makes looping second latitude by oneself, parallel is made looping first latitudes two S1750T/m that continue by oneself by two Z1750T/m and is made the distribution of looping second latitudes by oneself in fabric, described Final finishing fabric was carried out water to add soft arrangement and the arrangement of high temperature stentering forming,
Wherein, warp soaks f1S800 twist/m, mulberry silk × 2Z700 twist/m for raw material with 23dtex, obtains through refining bletilla refining after stain silk; And 23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m adopts f2S300 twist/m, 23dtex mulberry silk to form through refining bletilla refining after stain silk; Non-twist yarn-doubling tension is 19CN; Looping tension force is 12CN; The temperature and time of dry blowing sizing is respectively 60 DEG C, 30min; Fabric is crossed water and is added soft arrangement and carry out under water temperature 80 ~ 85 DEG C, time 40min and bath raio are 1: 6 condition; High temperature stentering forming arranges and carries out under setting temperature 150 DEG C, sizing speed 30m/min condition, and fabric finished product Asparagines synthetase is at 108cm.
Above-mentioned real-silk dyed elastic fabric is made up of 92.3% mulberry silk and 7.7% spandex, is organized as satin weave, and finished product thickness is 16.5m/m, finished product through close be 115/cm, finished product filling density is 44/cm.
In looping twisting process, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times, and fabric finished door width is 108cm, and fabric elastic force is 31.9%, and its relaxation shrinkage of the spandex in fabric is 31.9%.
Compared with prior art, advantage of the present invention and beneficial effect as follows:
Make by oneself in the process of looping parallel in the present invention, the knitting of look being processed as silk elastic fabric of silkworm look silk creates condition; Polyvinyl long filament and silkworm look silk is selected to carry out non-twist under rational yarn-doubling tension and synthesize non-twist and plying, become non-twist after cylinder and to close bobbin silk neither too hard, nor too soft, during rear road looping, non-twist and plying bobbin moves back and is situated between smoothly, solve non-twist and plying well in rear road and spandex looping process, polyvinyl long filament self brute force difference and the difficult problem that very easily breaks end; By containing the non-twist of reasonable fineness polyvinyl long filament and plying under optimal design looping tension looping to spandex surface, in addition dry blowing sizing obtains self-control looping parallel again, dry blowing styling condition arranges rationally, by these behaves, looping operation is not only implemented smoothly, 50D polyvinyl long filament little breakage, while polyvinyl long filament is bonded to spandex surface securely, avoid occur between polyvinyl long filament inter-adhesive; And fabric adds soft finishing condition through the water of crossing optimized, the polyvinyl long filament in fabric is dissolved completely totally, make the fabric of follow-up fixed gate width after high temperature stentering forming have larger tensile-elasticity and elastic recovery space; Fully demonstrate real-silk dyed elastic fabric of the present invention thus and there is the strong feature of productibility.
Select the self-control looping parallel that reasonable fineness polyvinyl long filament is processed into, weave the fabric obtained smooth, comfortable, anti-draping over one's shoulders splits Be very effective, its suture slip property of real-silk dyed elastic fabric through Final finishing is greatly improved, fabric can Quick-return after extending, the clothes that this fabric is processed into have good comfortableness, this real-silk dyed elastic fabric new varieties, it has expanded a brand-new class fancy of silk rubbery product, start the beginning that real silk stretch fabric look is knitted, the real silk rubbery product of general plain color is developed to multicolor, thus meet people's craving for the colorful color aspect of silk elastic fabric well.
[detailed description of the invention]
Real-silk dyed elastic fabric, it is the fabric that is woven into by warp and the parallel that comprises spandex through Final finishing, described parallel be by 23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m and 50D polyvinyl long filament by non-twist and synthesize non-twist and plying looping add and be twisted to 20D spandex surface, and be fixed to Z1750T/m self-control looping first latitude through dry blowing, S1750T/m makes looping second latitude by oneself, parallel is made looping first latitudes two S1750T/m that continue by oneself by two Z1750T/m and is made the distribution of looping second latitudes by oneself in fabric, described Final finishing fabric was carried out water to add soft arrangement and the arrangement of high temperature stentering forming,
Wherein, warp soaks f1S800 twist/m, mulberry silk × 2Z700 twist/m for raw material with 23dtex, obtains through refining bletilla refining after stain silk; And 23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m adopts f2S300 twist/m, 23dtex mulberry silk to form through refining bletilla refining after stain silk; Non-twist yarn-doubling tension is 19CN; Looping tension force is 12CN; The temperature and time of dry blowing sizing is respectively 60 DEG C, 30min; Fabric is crossed water and is added soft arrangement and carry out under water temperature 80 ~ 85 DEG C, time 40min and bath raio are 1: 6 condition; High temperature stentering forming arranges and carries out under setting temperature 150 DEG C, sizing speed 30m/min condition, and fabric finished product Asparagines synthetase is at 108cm.
Real-silk dyed elastic fabric, its production process comprises the following steps: determine web process specification, the processing of self-control looping parallel, self-control looping parallel dry blowing sizing, make looping parallel precision wind by oneself, look is knitted, fabric is crossed water and added soft arrangement and high temperature stentering forming operation.Wherein, looping manufacturing procedure of twisting thread comprises the processing of silkworm look silk, the non-twist doubling of silkworm look silk and polyvinyl long filament and looping twining steps; The preparation of warp raw material and warp beam is also comprised before look is knitted.
1, in web process specifications design, tissue adopt satin weave (the present embodiment is five heddle satin), finished product through close be 115/cm, finished product filling density is 44/cm, and finished door width is 108cm, and finished product thickness is 16.5m/m.
2, the processing of looping parallel is made by oneself
Homemade looping parallel adds man-hour, and adopt 23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m to carry out doubling with 50D polyvinyl long filament, the method being wound into 20D spandex surface after doubling is again processed.
Silkworm look silk processing before 2.1 doublings
Raw material adopts 23dtex mulberry silk f2S300 twist/m, is carried out refining white process, carries out dye silk after refining is white, and this Morus tinctoria silk carries out into an operation on one-tenth cylinder machine, is 23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m.
When refining white, refining liquid adopts the AR-617 silk scouring agent that Zhong Fang auxiliary reagent factory produces.
The non-twist doubling of 2.2 silkworm look silks and polyvinyl long filament
23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m and 50D polyvinyl long filament are carried out non-twist doubling under yarn-doubling tension 19CN, doubling winder is hung 10 grammes per square metre hammers, obtain the also sth. made by twisting also plying that bobbin hardness is 22.
The doubling Selecting parameter of table 1:23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m and 50D polyvinyl long filament
method |
yarn-doubling tension |
bobbin hardness |
result |
6 grammes per square metre hammers |
13CN |
16 |
bobbin is softer, and rear road looping operation is moved back solution and had some setbacks, and broken end is many. |
10 grammes per square metre hammers |
19CN |
22 |
bobbin is neither too hard, nor too soft, and rear road looping operation is moved back and separated smoothly, breaks end little. |
14 grammes per square metre hammers |
23CN |
28 |
bobbin hardness suitable can, it is comparatively smooth that rear road looping operation moves back solution, breaks end less. |
Table 1 illustrates: adopt three kinds of different grammes per square metre weights and corresponding three kinds of differential tensions from this table, the three kinds of different hardness obtained through doubling non-twist plying bobbin, and doubling parameter should select 10 grammes per square metres hammers, 19CN yarn-doubling tension and bobbin hardness 22.
2.3 looping twisting:
Non-twist and plying is wound into 20D spandex surface by looping silk machine under looping tension force 12CN condition, the drawing-off amount of 20D spandex is controlled well in looping process, two kinds of self-control looping parallels of obtained Z1750T/m and the S1750T/m of twisting, these the two kinds identical looping twists but different twist with the fingers to self-control looping parallel, follow-up weave for latitude time respectively as first latitude and second latitude.
As preferentially, in looping process, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times, and namely the drawing-off of 20D spandex is to 7.4D.
Table 2: adopt the non-twist of different fineness polyvinyl long filament and the looping situation of plying and 20D spandex
drafting multiple |
polyvinyl long filament (D) |
tension force (CN) |
bobbin hardness |
result |
2.7 |
50 |
12 |
20 |
polyvinyl long filament little breakage. |
2.7 |
75 |
20 |
26 |
polyvinyl filament breakage is many. |
2.7 |
100 |
25 |
35 |
polyvinyl filament breakage is too many, cannot looping. |
Table 2 illustrates: when polyvinyl filament fineness selects 50D, with jointly form non-twist of f2S300 twist/m, 23dtex mulberry silk and plying when carrying out looping, polyvinyl long filament little breakage, is conducive to looping smooth.
3, looping parallel dry blowing sizing is made by oneself
Self-control looping parallel is carried out dry blowing sizing on setting machine, dry blowing setting temperature 60 DEG C, dry blowing shaping time 30min, thus guarantee not occur between polyvinyl long filament inter-adhesive, polyvinyl long filament is bonded to spandex surface securely simultaneously.
Table 3: adopt the self-control looping parallel of different fineness polyvinyl having the sizing result in unformed medium situation
Conclusion: when with wet steaming sizing, occur inter-adhesive between polyvinyl long filament, during rear road precision wind, rewinding has some setbacks; When shaping with dry blowing, stop the generation of adhesion phenomenon.
4, make looping parallel precision by oneself and become cylinder
Self-control looping parallel after dry blowing being shaped becomes on cylinder machine to carry out into an operation in precision, becomes cylinder tension force to be 16CN, replys after lower machine, waits looming weaving used for latitude.
Table 4: its one-tenth cylinder optimum configurations of self-control looping parallel comprising 50D polyvinyl long filament
method |
become cylinder tension force |
bobbin hardness |
result |
6 grammes per square metre hammers |
10CN |
14 |
bobbin hardness is softer, and move back solution when weaving and have some setbacks, broken end is many. |
10 grammes per square metre hammers |
16CN |
21 |
move back when weaving and separate smoothly, little breakage. |
16 grammes per square metre hammers |
24CN |
32 |
bobbin is comparatively hard, easily breaks, weaves not smooth. |
5, warp beam warping
Warp raw material adopts 23dtex to soak mulberry silk f1S800 twist/m × 2Z700 twist/m, this warp raw material refines after stain silk through refining bletilla and becomes cylinder, as warping being led (look silk) bobbin, 11990 are led bobbin to be installed on German ZGM3800 Sectional warping machines and to carry out warping, warping technology condition: upper distraction force is 2.5CN ~ 3CN, upper axle tension force is 30CN ~ 33CN, warp quality situation: often whole 50 circles check, broken end number of times is few, easily upper axle not easily silk pressing, warping is complete obtains warp beam.
6, look is knitted
Parallel combination adopts two kinds of self-control looping parallels of Z1750T/m and the S1750T/m be made up of 23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m, 50D polyvinyl long filament and 20D spandex, i.e. first latitude: (23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m of+50D polyvinyl long filament+20D spandex) Z1750T/m makes looping parallel by oneself; Second latitude: (23dtex silkworm look silk f2S300 twist/m of+50D polyvinyl long filament+20D spandex) S1750T/m makes looping parallel by oneself.Weaving process condition: warp tension 28CN ~ 32CN, upper machine through close be 75/cm, upper machine filling density is 42.5/cm, five line satin weaves, reed porter is No. 15 reeds, and it is 5 teeth/cm that reed penetrates number, upper gate width is 160cm, picking order is that two shuttle first latitudes and two shuttle second latitudes circulate, i.e. parallel arrangement: first latitude first latitude second latitude second latitude ..., or be arranged as second latitude second latitude first latitude first latitude ...
The warp of upper machine warp beam and parallel are combined on dobby machine to be weaved, and obtains that a width is 158.5cm, green compact weight is 101g/m after lower machine
2fabric.
Look adopts different self-control looping parallels to carry out weaving test before knitting, and namely the polyvinyl filament fineness made by oneself in looping parallel adopts 50D, 75D, 100D to carry out sample respectively:
When polyvinyl long filament is 50D, because the silkworm look silk in self-control looping parallel is substantially identical with polyvinyl long filament thickness, after silkworm look silk, the doubling of polyvinyl long filament again with spandex looping, the positive and negative internal stress of self-control looping parallel remains basically stable, weave performance smoothly, silk fabric face is more smooth, comfortable, and the anti-fragility of draping over one's shoulders of fabric is good.
When polyvinyl long filament is 75D, because the polyvinyl long filament in self-control looping parallel is thicker than silkworm look silk, weave smoothly, but fabric is after Final finishing, silk fabric face is softer, easily sends out to drape over one's shoulders and splits.
When polyvinyl long filament is 100D, due to thicker than silkworm look silk one times of polyvinyl long filament in self-control looping parallel, move to cause weaving have some setbacks after fell, the silk fabric face after Final finishing is softer, drape over one's shoulders split more serious.
7, fabric is crossed water and is added soft arrangement
Fabric is put into and soaks cylinder and carried out water and add soft arrangement, adopt the softener 1512 produced by Shangyu city Fine Chemical Works, softener consumption: 1g/ liter, finishing condition is that water temperature rises to 80 ~ 85 DEG C, time 40min; bath raio is 1: 6, crosses after water adds soft arrangement and the polyvinyl long filament in fabric is dissolved completely.
8, high temperature stentering forming
High temperature framing shaping machine carries out, styling condition: temperature is 150 DEG C, the speed of a motor vehicle is 30m/min, and the door width controlling fabric reaches 108cm, obtains: the elastic force be made up of 92.3% mulberry silk and 7.7% spandex reaches the real-silk dyed elastic fabric finished product of 31.9% after high-temperature shaping.
In looping twisting process, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times; Weave gate width, weave rear lower gate width and fabric finished door width is respectively 160cm, 158.5cm, 108cm, its relaxation shrinkage of the spandex in fabric is 31.9%, and the spandex fineness namely in fabric reaches 10.86D.
Bobbin hardness term is related in present specification, bobbin hardness does not have unit, arrange the custom become social custom according to the industry, the mensuration of bobbin hardness values be directly obtain by the scale value that scleroscopic pointed dial is corresponding read value, this value of reading is an abstract number.