CN102080293A - Coolmax fiber yarn dyed fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents
Coolmax fiber yarn dyed fabric and manufacturing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN102080293A CN102080293A CN200910228832.8A CN200910228832A CN102080293A CN 102080293 A CN102080293 A CN 102080293A CN 200910228832 A CN200910228832 A CN 200910228832A CN 102080293 A CN102080293 A CN 102080293A
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Abstract
The invention provides a Coolmax fiber yarn dyed fabric and a processing technique thereof. In the invention, a Coolmax/cotton blended yarn is adopted, a fine-spun or poplin or oxford-spun or jacquard weave fabric is taken as a fabric texture, and the processing technique of the Coolmax fiber yarn dyed fabric adopts a special treatment method in yarn dyeing weaving. The Coolmax fiber yarn dyed fabric has the beneficial effects that the section of the adopted Coolmax fiber is in a unique four-pipe shape and is hollow, and the tube wall of the fiber is air permeable so that the fabric has excellent characteristics such as hygroscopicity, sweat exhaust, air permeability and the like due to the unique physical structure of the fiber, thus sweat on skins can be exhausted at any time and then transmitted to the fabric surface for rapid evaporation so that skins keep dry and comfortable. By means of breakthrough of the product in research and development as well as process, reference is provided for the development of top-grade personalized textile fabrics, guidance is provided for market development, and good economic benefit is created for enterprises.
Description
(1) technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of fabric of field of textiles, particularly relate to a kind of Coolmax fiber dyed fabrics and manufacture method thereof.
(2) background technology
Along with current social develop rapidly and progress of science and technology, and the enriching constantly of the raising of people's living standard and social material, people transform to snugness of fit from simple pursuit outward appearance, esthetic requirement, the incompatibility people requirement comfortable and easy to wear of common synthetic fiber originally.Therefore, novel synthetic fiber arise at the historic moment.At present, the novel synthetic fiber that occur on China market have multiple, as the Coolmax fiber of du pont company, the Coolplus fiber in Taiwan, the Coolbst fiber of Yizheng Fiber Optical plant factory etc.These fibers can absorb water fast, hydrophobic, diffusion and volatilization, thereby make its fabric have good moisture absorbing and sweat releasing and gas permeability.Simultaneously,, under wetting state, can as cotton fiber, not lodge yet, can remain the comfort conditions between fabric and skin, improve the wearing comfort of fiber, be the first-selected lining of sportswear, shirt because it has higher wet yield modulus.Existing my company is with the Coolmax fiber color-woven fabric that has been development of raw materials, this lining being opened in the market still initiative.
(3) summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to utilize tencel to develop new lining, remedying the deficiency of existing product, and provide a kind of Coolmax fiber dyed fabrics and manufacture method thereof.
Technical scheme of the present invention is to realize like this.
The Coolmax fiber dyed fabrics of this programme, the yarn of lining adopts the Coolmax/Cotton blended yarn, and its fabric tissue is finespun or poplin cloth or the Oxford is spun or the figured texture weave fabric.The blending ratio of described Coolmax/Cotton blended yarn is 70/30 or 50/50 or 30/70, and yarn count is 40
sOr 50
sOr 60
sOr 80
s/ 2.
The manufacture method of the Coolmax fiber dyed fabrics of this programme is characterized in that the technical essential of this method is following steps:
(1), yarn dyeing operation:
1. loose type coning: adopt the loose type coning machine, cheese density is controlled at 0.36～0.38g/cm
3, bobbin weight 900g.
2. pre-treatment process:
Auxiliary dosage: detergent SW-1 is 1.5g/l, and penetrating agent JFC is 1.0g/l.
(2), weaving process:
1. winding procedure major technique measure:
Adopt the capacity-type electronic yarn clearer, suitably dwindle the control range of details, slubbing, cotton joint, improve through sliver and do.
Adopt air splicer, to improve weaving efficiency and quality.
For reducing filoplume, the reduction rotating speed is 2000r/min.
2. warping process major technique measure:
Warping will satisfy the little and even principle of warp tension, takes tension force segmentation control, row's segmentation pressurization before, during and after pressing, and the configuration tension ring accomplishes that tension force, arrangement, coiling three are even; The passage that guarantees yarn is smooth, smooth and easy, preventing to hang up yarn, for sizing provide high-quality through axle.
3. sizing operation major technique measure:
Because Density is bigger, yarn strength is lower, filoplume is more, and the loom speed of a motor vehicle is higher simultaneously, and we adopt the rate of sizing about 13% for this reason, and laying equal stress on lining and infiltration is principle.
Selecting for use of slurry based on moulding property PVA preferably, is equipped with converted starch, adds a little auxiliary agent.
Formula of size: PVA 50KG, converted starch 25KG, CD-50E 12.5KG, antistatic additive 2KG, volume 800L sizes mixing.
Increase squeezing roller pressure, increasing the infiltration of slurry, and adopt wet leasing and back to go up cured technology, make yarn have good brute force and filoplume pastes the volt property.
Sizing operation main technologic parameters: speed of a motor vehicle 50m/min twoly soaks two rolling, and the first squeezing roller pressure 10KN, the second squeezing roller pressure 20KN, dry and wet zone drying tube temperature are 110 ℃ and 130 ℃, 90 ℃ of slurry groove temperatures, stock tank viscosity 7-9S, pH value 7, percentage elongation 1.8%.
4. weaving process major technique measure:
Because fabric compactness is bigger, occur filoplume easily, so knitting technology is as the criterion to improve the fell definition, take suitable warp tension.
Speed of a motor vehicle 400r/min, warp tension 1200N, 318 ° of heald level times are combined flat height 12.8cm, back beam height 10cm, back beam depth 5.5cm, workshop relative humidity 70～75%.
(3), finishing process:
1. the operation of singing:
The main staple fibre that protrudes in fabric face of removing in order to improve the effect of singing, adopts the high speed singeing, adopts gas singeing.
The speed of a motor vehicle of gassing frame be 100-120 rice/minute; Flame height 2cm; Two burners, one positive one counter singing; Adopt the steam spray method to lower the temperature; Can reach 4-5 level level after singing.
2. destarch operation:
Destarch is the basis of dyeing and finishing processing, uses the high temperature enzyme to handle desizing, makes fabric desizing thorough; Its material side is: destarch enzyme 2000L, 2 kilograms/500L; 1 kilogram/500L of bleeding agent; 1 kilogram/500L of chelated dispersants; PH value is adjusted into about 6.
Feed temperature is 70～75 ℃; The temperature of washing is 90～95 ℃; Steam pressure 0.24～0.26Mpa; Nip pressure is 6 kilograms; After abundant destarch, add suitable softener again.
3. go up soft:
Therefore the Coolmax fabric when selecting softener, should be selected hydrophilic softener, thereby not damage its moisture absorption sweat discharging functions owing to its distinctive moisture absorption sweat discharging functions.
4. shaping process:
Heat-setting process is an one procedure crucial in the whole dyeing and finishing technology, chooses setting process, is directly connected to problems such as the stable and color and luster of apparent mass, the physical aspect of finished product is even.
Temperature: 180～185 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle: 60 meters/minute, overfeeding: 3-5%.
Consider that the Coolmax fiber itself has good moisture absorbing and sweat releasing performance, so the setting process temperature is difficult too high.We find that through test temperature is too high, and the cloth cover feel is coarse, and drapability is poor.So, when producing the Coolmax fabric, should suitably adjust overfeed ratio and control temperature and time according to the characteristics of fabric.
5. shrinking processes:
Preshrunk is the last one procedure of back arrangement, mainly is to guarantee that the warp-wise shrink of lining requires and further improve the feel of product.
The speed of a motor vehicle of preshrunk is generally 50 meters/minute, and the cloth rate that contracts generally is controlled at 8～10%, and the finished product washing shrinkage is in 3%.
Usefulness of the present invention is: adopt the Coolmax fiber, it not only cross sectional shape be four unique tubuloses, be again doughnut, and the tube wall of fiber is also ventilative.Its unique physical structure makes this fabric have moisture absorption, perspire, good characteristic such as ventilative, can at any time making soaked with sweat on the skin be detached skin, thereby be transferred to the evaporation rapidly of lining surface, makes skin keep dry and comfortable and comfortable.The research and development of this product and technologic breakthrough are for exploitation high-grade, personalized weaving face fabric provides reference, for the developing in market provides guiding, for enterprise has created good economic benefit.
(4) description of drawings
Accompanying drawing 1 is a yarn dyeing pre-treatment process curve map.
Accompanying drawing 2 is yarn dyeing (dying light color) process curve figure.
Accompanying drawing 3 is yarn dyeing (dying dark color) process curve figure.
Accompanying drawing 4 is a yarn dyeing aftertreatment technology curve map.
(5) specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with embodiment technical scheme of the present invention is described further.
One, the physical characteristic of Coolmax fiber and major product
1, the physical characteristic of Coolmax fiber
The Coolmax fiber is the functional fiber of the exclusive research and development of E.I.Du Pont Company, it not only cross sectional shape be four unique tubuloses, be again doughnut, and the tube wall of fiber is also ventilative.Just because of the unique physical structure of this fiber, caused its moisture absorption, perspire, ventilating performance, just lining has good capillary effect.Can at any time making soaked with sweat on the skin be detached skin, thereby be transferred to the evaporation rapidly of lining surface, make skin keep dry and comfortable and comfortable.
2, major product specification
My company has mainly developed Coolmax/Cotton blending (blending ratio 70/30,50/50,30/70); Yarn count is 40
s, 50
s, 60
s, 80
s/ 2 (English systems); Density 120X70,130X80,144X76,160X88; The product of specifications such as 58 inches of finished product fabric widths.
Kind has finespun, poplin cloth, Oxford to spin and all kinds of figured texture weave fabrics etc.
Below we are production technology and the technical measures that example is introduced master operation with 50X50,144X76.
Two, each operation production technology and major technique measure
1, yarn dyeing operation
Technological process: loose type coning, pre-treatment, dyeing, post processing.
(1), loose type coning:
Adopt the accurate loose type coning machine of Switzerland SSM, cheese density is controlled at 0.36～0.38g/cm
3, bobbin weight 900g.Problems such as it is improper to note controlling winder density during winder, and single bobbin density irregularity or indivedual bobbin density are inconsistent.
(2), pre-treatment process:
1. technological parameter: see accompanying drawing 1.
2. auxiliary dosage:
| Auxiliary agent | Consumption |
| Detergent SW-1 | 1.5g/l |
| Penetrating agent JFC | 1.0g/l |
(3), dyeing: adopt the high merit yarn package dyeing machine dyeing in Hong Kong, technology is as follows:
1. Coolmax dyeing assistant consumption: see the following form.
2. Coolmax dyeing parameter: see accompanying drawing 1 and accompanying drawing 2.
Accompanying drawing 2 is for dying light color, and accompanying drawing 3 is for dying dark color.
(3), aftertreatment technology: see accompanying drawing 4.
1. after treatment aid consumption: see the following form.
2. aftertreatment technology:
2, weaving process
Technological process: HS-101C type bobbin winder, ZC-L1800 type warping machines, KARL MALIMO Sizing machines, gait, GTM-AS type Rapier looms.
(1), winding procedure major technique measure:
1. adopt the capacity-type electronic yarn clearer, suitably dwindle the control range of details, slubbing, cotton joint, improve through sliver and do.
2. adopt air splicer, to improve weaving efficiency and quality.
3. for reducing filoplume, the reduction rotating speed is 2000r/min.
(2), warping process major technique measure:
Warping will satisfy the little and even principle of warp tension, takes tension force segmentation control, row's segmentation pressurization before, during and after pressing, and the configuration tension ring accomplishes that tension force, arrangement, coiling three are even.The passage that guarantees yarn is smooth, smooth and easy, preventing to hang up yarn, for sizing provide high-quality through axle.
(3), sizing operation major technique measure:
1. because Density is bigger, and yarn strength is lower, filoplume is more, the loom speed of a motor vehicle is higher simultaneously, and we adopt the rate of sizing about 13% for this reason, and laying equal stress on lining and infiltration is principle.
2. selecting for use of slurry based on moulding property PVA preferably, is equipped with converted starch, adds a little auxiliary agent.Formula of size: PVA50KG, converted starch 25KG, CD-50E 12.5KG, antistatic additive 2KG.Volume 800L sizes mixing.
3. increase squeezing roller pressure, increasing the infiltration of slurry, and adopt wet leasing and back to go up cured technology, make yarn have good brute force and filoplume pastes the volt property.Sizing operation main technologic parameters: speed of a motor vehicle 50m/min twoly soaks two rolling, and the first squeezing roller pressure 10KN, the second squeezing roller pressure 20KN, dry and wet zone drying tube temperature are 110 ℃ and 130 ℃, 90 ℃ of slurry groove temperatures, stock tank viscosity 7-9S, pH value 7, percentage elongation 1.8%.
(4), weaving process major technique measure:
Because fabric compactness is bigger, occur filoplume easily, so knitting technology is as the criterion to improve the fell definition, take suitable warp tension.Speed of a motor vehicle 400r/min, warp tension 1200N, 318 ° of heald level times are combined flat height 12.8cm, back beam height 10cm, back beam depth 5.5cm, workshop relative humidity 70～75%.Last loom efficiency 85%, semi-manufactured goods quality 90%.
3, finishing process
Technological process: turn over seam, singe, destarch, go up softness, typing, preshrunk.
(1), the operation of singing:
The main staple fibre that protrudes in fabric face of removing in order to improve the effect of singing, adopts the high speed singeing, adopts gas singeing.The speed of a motor vehicle of gassing frame be 100-120 rice/minute; Flame height 2cm; Two burners, one positive one counter singing; Adopt the steam spray method to lower the temperature.Can reach 4-5 level level after singing.
(2), destarch operation:
Destarch is the basis of dyeing and finishing processing, uses the high temperature enzyme to handle desizing, makes fabric desizing thorough.Its material side is: destarch enzyme 2000L, 2 kilograms/500L; 1 kilogram/500L of bleeding agent; 1 kilogram/500L of chelated dispersants; PH value is adjusted into about 6.
Feed temperature is 70～75 ℃; The temperature of washing is 90～95 ℃; Steam pressure 0.24～0.26Mpa; Nip pressure is 6 kilograms.After abundant destarch, add suitable softener again.
(3), go up softness:
Therefore the Coolmax fabric when selecting softener, should be selected hydrophilic softener, thereby not damage its moisture absorption sweat discharging functions owing to its distinctive moisture absorption sweat discharging functions.
(4), shaping process:
Heat-setting process is an one procedure crucial in the whole dyeing and finishing technology, chooses setting process, is directly connected to problems such as the stable and color and luster of apparent mass, the physical aspect of finished product is even.
Temperature: 180～185 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle: 60 meters/minute, overfeeding: 3-5%.
Consider that the Coolmax fiber itself has good moisture absorbing and sweat releasing performance, so the setting process temperature is difficult too high.We find that through test temperature is too high, and the cloth cover feel is coarse, and drapability is poor.So, when producing the Coolmax fabric, should suitably adjust overfeed ratio and control temperature and time according to the characteristics of fabric.
(5), shrinking processes:
Preshrunk is the last one procedure of back arrangement, mainly is to guarantee that the warp-wise shrink of lining requires and further improve the feel of product.
The speed of a motor vehicle of preshrunk is generally 50 meters/minute, and the cloth rate that contracts generally is controlled at 8～10%, and the finished product washing shrinkage is in 3%.
Three, fabric property (seeing the following form) and production key measure:
1, fabric property: see the following form.
The finished product first grade percentage put in storage reaches more than 98% after testing.Physical index is all qualified.
2, key measure:
1. the Coolmax fabric can not be handled with highly basic, otherwise will cause the fierce degraded of fiber, influences its many performance.
2. dyeing temperature is controlled at 130 ℃, can not be too high, and too high meeting makes the similar porous road in the fibre structure produce distortion expansion, distortion, and cooling these deformation of back are fixed up, and have influence on the saturating wet function of fabric with regard to making the duct produce obstruction
8. the technological parameter of each operation is weaved in strict control, and the little residual generation of strict control guarantees semi-manufactured goods quality.
4. in order to guarantee that Coolmax has the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing performance, back arrangement must be used hydrophilic softener.
5. the setting temperature of fabric can not be too high, generally is controlled at 180-185 ℃.
Four, conclusion
From the whole process of production analysis, as long as choose reasonable technological parameter, adjustment equipment also guarantees its kilter, and its end product quality just can be controlled effectively and improve greatly.The Coolmax series of products have become the leading products of our enterprise, and moisture absorption sweat discharging functions that it is remarkable and comfortable wearability are approved by consumers in general that prospect is boundless.
Claims (3)
1. Coolmax fiber dyed fabrics is characterized in that: the yarn of this lining adopts the Coolmax/Cotton blended yarn, and its fabric tissue is finespun or poplin cloth or the Oxford is spun or the figured texture weave fabric.
2. Coolmax fiber dyed fabrics according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the blending ratio of described Coolmax/Cotton blended yarn is 70/30 or 50/50 or 30/70, and yarn count is 40
sOr 50
sOr 60
sOr 80
s/ 2.
3. the manufacture method of a Coolmax fiber dyed fabrics is characterized in that the technical essential of this method is following steps:
(1), yarn dyeing operation:
1. loose type coning: adopt the loose type coning machine, cheese density is controlled at 0.36～0.38g/cm
3, bobbin weight 900g;
2. pre-treatment process:
Auxiliary dosage: detergent SW-1 is 1.5g/l, and penetrating agent JFC is 1.0g/l;
(2), weaving process:
1. winding procedure major technique measure:
Adopt the capacity-type electronic yarn clearer, suitably dwindle the control range of details, slubbing, cotton joint, improve through sliver and do,
Adopt air splicer, with raising weaving efficiency and quality,
For reducing filoplume, the reduction rotating speed is 2000r/min;
2. warping process major technique measure:
Warping will satisfy the little and even principle of warp tension, takes tension force segmentation control, row's segmentation pressurization before, during and after pressing, and the configuration tension ring accomplishes that tension force, arrangement, coiling three are even; The passage that guarantees yarn is smooth, smooth and easy, preventing to hang up yarn, for sizing provide high-quality through axle;
3. sizing operation major technique measure:
Because Density is bigger, yarn strength is lower, filoplume is more, and the loom speed of a motor vehicle is higher simultaneously, and we adopt the rate of sizing about 13% for this reason, and laying equal stress on lining and infiltration is principle;
Selecting for use of slurry based on moulding property PVA preferably, is equipped with converted starch, adds a little auxiliary agent;
Formula of size: PVA 50KG, converted starch 25KG, CD-50E 12.5KG, antistatic additive 2KG, volume 800L sizes mixing;
Increase squeezing roller pressure, increasing the infiltration of slurry, and adopt wet leasing and back to go up cured technology, make yarn have good brute force and filoplume pastes the volt property;
Sizing operation main technologic parameters: speed of a motor vehicle 50m/min twoly soaks two rolling, and the first squeezing roller pressure 10KN, the second squeezing roller pressure 20KN, dry and wet zone drying tube temperature are 110 ℃ and 130 ℃, 90 ℃ of slurry groove temperatures, stock tank viscosity 7-9S, pH value 7, percentage elongation 1.8%;
4. weaving process major technique measure:
Because fabric compactness is bigger, occur filoplume easily, so knitting technology is as the criterion to improve the fell definition, take suitable warp tension;
Speed of a motor vehicle 400r/min, warp tension 1200N, 318 ° of heald level times are combined flat height 12.8cm, back beam height 10cm, back beam depth 5.5cm, workshop relative humidity 70～75%;
(3), finishing process:
1. the operation of singing:
The main staple fibre that protrudes in fabric face of removing in order to improve the effect of singing, adopts the high speed singeing, adopts gas singeing;
The speed of a motor vehicle of gassing frame be 100-120 rice/minute; Flame height 2cm; Two burners, one positive one counter singing; Adopt the steam spray method to lower the temperature; Can reach 4-5 level level after singing;
2. destarch operation:
Destarch is the basis of dyeing and finishing processing, uses the high temperature enzyme to handle desizing, makes fabric desizing thorough; Its material side is: destarch enzyme 2000L, 2 kilograms/500L; 1 kilogram/500L of bleeding agent; 1 kilogram/500L of chelated dispersants; PH value is adjusted into about 6;
Feed temperature is 70～75 ℃; The temperature of washing is 90～95 ℃; Steam pressure 0.24～0.26Mpa; Nip pressure is 6 kilograms; After abundant destarch, add suitable softener again;
3. go up soft:
Therefore the Coolmax fabric when selecting softener, should be selected hydrophilic softener, thereby not damage its moisture absorption sweat discharging functions owing to its distinctive moisture absorption sweat discharging functions;
4. shaping process:
Heat-setting process is an one procedure crucial in the whole dyeing and finishing technology, chooses setting process, is directly connected to problems such as the stable and color and luster of apparent mass, the physical aspect of finished product is even;
Temperature: 180～185 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle: 60 meters/minute, overfeeding: 3-5%;
Consider that the Coolmax fiber itself has good moisture absorbing and sweat releasing performance, so the setting process temperature is difficult too high.We find that through test temperature is too high, and the cloth cover feel is coarse, and drapability is poor.So, when producing the Coolmax fabric, should suitably adjust overfeed ratio and control temperature and time according to the characteristics of fabric;
5. shrinking processes:
Preshrunk is the last one procedure of back arrangement, mainly is to guarantee that the warp-wise shrink of lining requires and further improve the feel of product;
The speed of a motor vehicle of preshrunk is generally 50 meters/minute, and the cloth rate that contracts generally is controlled at 8～10%, and the finished product washing shrinkage is in 3%.
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Application publication date: 20110601 |