CN104427969B - Include the reducing composition of at least one sulfur-bearing reducing agent, at least one fatty material, at least one cationic surfactant and at least two polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surface active agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to one kind to reduce cosmetic composition, said composition includes one or more sulfur-bearing reducing agent, preferably thiol reagents, one or more is the fatty material of solid at room temperature, one or more cationic surfactants and two kinds or more than two kinds nonionic surface active agent, these nonionic surface active agent are selected from the polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol with the ethylene oxide number more than or equal to 10, and condition is the polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of at least two ethylene oxide unit numbers with more than or equal to 10 with poor more than or equal to 2 HLB.The invention further relates to a kind of method for keratin fiber permanent deformation.

Description

Comprising at least one sulfur-bearing reducing agent, at least one fatty material, at least one sun from Sub- surfactant and at least two polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surface active agent Reducing composition

The present invention relates to a kind of reducing composition, the reducing composition includes one or more sulfur-bearing reducing agent (preferably sulphur Alcohol reagent), it is one or more be at room temperature the fatty material of solid, one or more cationic surfactants and two kinds Or more than two kinds nonionic surface active agent, these nonionic surface active agent are selected from the oxidation more than or equal to 10 The polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol (polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols) of ethene number, condition is the nonionic It is poor more than or equal to 2 HLB that at least two of type surfactant have.

The invention further relates to one kind to be used for keratin fiber (cutin fiber), more specifically human keratin fibres such as head The method of the permanent deformation of hair, this method, which is included on the fiber, uses reducing composition defined above and alternatively A kind of oxidising composition.

Many people have a distorted self-image the outward appearance of hair, especially possess curly hair but it is generally desirable to obtain straight (smooth) Those people of hair, and possess straight hair in turn but it is desirable to there is those people of curly hair.

One of usually used technology of acquisition perming hair is related to two step procedures, and the wherein first step is to use one Composition reduction keratin fiber present in disulfide bond (disulphide bridges) (reduction step) of the kind containing suitable reducing agent.One These disulfide bond of denier are reduced, and then in a desired manner shape hair.This forming step can relate to make curly headed or Also make it straight, be as a result to rely on the property of device and original keratin fiber used by tension hair.This tenses behaviour Make can before reducing composition is administered on hair, during or after carry out.Once perform this first step, it is necessary to One oxidation step so as to rebuild disulfide bond and it is stable obtained by shape.This operation is carried out usually using a kind of oxidising composition (in the step of also known as fixating shape step).

Therefore, the technology allows to make hair be corrugated (hair-waving process) and/or straight (stretching).With temporary deformity The simple of (such as shape), routine techniques are different, by be chemically treated as described above the new shape being applied on hair with when Between passage be durable and especially it is resistance to benefit from water or using shampoo wash effect.

Generally included for straight or permanent wave reducing composition in sulphite, bisulfites, alkylphosphines Or the preferably reducing agent of the form of mercaptan.These reducing compositions be generally in lotion that is thickening or not thickening, creams or The form of gel.

Most of creams mediums for manufacturing reducing composition are to be based on crystallizable compound, such as fatty alcohol, For example, especially cetostearyl alcohol, or fatty acid ester, such as cetyl palmitate preparation.Generally by these compounds (in room It is solid that temperature is lower) melt and be then introduced into aqueous phase and emulsified in Warm status.Then emulsion is cooled down, so that these chemical combination In other words thing is crystallized in the form of the solid particle of micron order size with crystal form.In order to realize emulsifying step, generally will Ionic and/or nonionic surface active agent are incorporated into preparation.The effect of these surfactants is to make emulsion thinner And produce smooth and butyrous the dispersion without caking.

In general, after reducing agent and other compounds, especially spices is added, it is found that these mediums can have Unsatisfactory quality (texture).More specifically, adding these compounds, and especially observed after spices Viscosity is remarkably decreased, and this creams for typically resulting in acquisition had the quality of multi-fluid, may look like milk, or tool There is entirely different and flocculation outward appearance, this is unacceptable in terms of product quality.

In other words, reducing agent and other compounds are being added, and particularly with the addition of spices after, resulting reduction Composition does not have gratifying quality.

In addition, such medium there may be uncertain stability in food preservation test, there is the damage of viscosity Lose or the problem of phase separation/retrogradation (figuration, bodying).

Therefore, using for the reducing composition that is intended to use in the permanent deformation procedure for keratin fiber Really needed in the presence of a kind of, these compositions are without all shortcomings as described above, in other words with gratifying matter Ground, the level of the fatty material without increasing non-oxygen alkylene, and be stable in storage.

The applicant is possible to it has been unexpectedly discovered that in a kind of reducing composition by combining the following Obtain desired characteristic：One or more sulfur-bearing reducing agents, one or more are at room temperature the fatty material of solid, one kind Or a variety of cationic surfactants and two kinds or more than two kinds of specified chemical species and with the oxidation more than or equal to 10 The polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surface active agent of ethylene unit number, condition are at least two nonionic surface active agent With poor more than or equal to 2 HLB.

In fact, combination defined above allows to obtain with gratifying quality and is in whole manufacturing process Homogeneous reducing composition.Particular, it is found that these reducing compositions at the end of being included in, add reducing agent in its whole manufacture Show a kind of smooth and uniform quality afterwards with spices.

More particularly find these compositions viscosity keep in the fabrication process it is constant and not with the introducing of spices and Significant changes, this, which is typically resulted in, triggers the viscosity in the reducing composition of prior art to decline to a great extent.

Therefore, final reducing composition has a kind of dense, uniform and smooth quality.

In addition, the reducing composition that combination defined above also allows to obtain is preserving in the presence of reducing agent or spices It is stable, these compositions (25 DEG C) or the stable storage at a temperature of up to 45 DEG C more specifically at room temperature in phase Those.

In the sense of the present invention " stable " refer to after its manufacture at room temperature or less than or equal to 45 DEG C At a temperature of store many days under conditions of, outward appearance, quality and the viscosity of reducing composition are over time substantially not Change.

In other words, the viscosity and quality for finding reducing composition are not adversely affected over time, and A kind of and the problem of being minimized with satisfactory manner or even inhibiting phase separation or retrogradation.

Reducing composition can be used with a kind of satisfactory manner during permanent deformation, in particular for straight Or permanent hair styling keratin fiber, while assign the fiber good cosmetic characteristics.

Therefore, these reducing compositions have the physicochemical property of enhancing and can not adversely influence to be used for keratin fiber Permanent deformation method performance characteristic.

Therefore, the present invention provide in particular a kind of reduction cosmetic composition, and said composition contains comprising one or more Sulphur reducing agent, one or more are fatty material, the one or more cationic surfactants and two of solid at room temperature Kind or more than two kinds nonionic surface active agent, these nonionic surface active agent are selected from the oxygen more than or equal to 10 Change the polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of ethylene unit number, condition is at least two ethylene oxide lists having more than or equal to 10 It is poor more than or equal to 2 HLB that the polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of first number has.

Keratin fiber is easily dispersed throughout according to the reducing composition of the present invention, so as to contribute to it fine for keratin The administration during permanent deformation method is tieed up, and can easily be rinsed out.

According to the reducing composition of the present invention preferably for processing keratin fiber, more specifically human keratin fibres Form such as the creams (cream) of hair is present.

Therefore, invention further provides one kind to be used for keratin fiber, more specifically human keratin fibres such as head The method of the permanent deformation of hair, this method include：

- reducing composition as defined above is administered on the fiber, and allow by being enough the time shaped A step, and

- alternatively, a kind of oxidising composition is administered on the fiber and continues one time for being enough to fix the shape A step.

This method for being used to be permanently deformed makes keratin fiber become straight or waviness, while it is good to assign them Cosmetic characteristics.

Other objects of the present invention, feature, aspect and advantage will become more from the following description book and example is read Clearly.

As noted above, the reducing composition includes one or more sulfur-bearing reducing agents, is preferably selected from below formula Reducing agent：

H(X’)_q(R’)_r

Wherein X ' represents S or SO₂, q is that 1, r is that 1 or 2 or 3 and R ' is saturation or undersaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon Base (C₁-C₂₀), the hydrocarbyl group alternatively includes following substituent alternatively by heteroatom interruptions, and these substituents are selected from Oh group, halogen group, amine groups or into salt or non-carboxylic group, ((C into salt₁-C₃₀) alkoxy) carbonyl group, Acylamino- group, ((C₁-C₃₀) alkyl) aminocarbonyl group, ((C₁-C₃₀) acyl group) amino group, list or dialkyl amino group, One in list or dihydroxy amino group or its salt combined with alkali.

The one or more sulfur-bearing reducing agents used in the reducing composition are selected from mercaptan or non-thiol reductant.

The thiol reductant that can be used in the reducing composition includes the thiol reductant selected from the following：It is thio It is glycolic, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine (homocystine), glutathione, thioglycerol, thio It is malic acid, 2 mercaptopropionic acid, 3- mercaptopropionic acids, Thiodiglycol, 2 mercapto ethanol, dithiothreitol (DTT), Thioxanthine, thio Salicylic acid, propane thioic acid, lipoic acid, NAC and their salt.

The non-thiol reductant that can be used in the reducing composition specifically includes alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal sulfurous Hydrochlorate.

The one or more preferred thiol reductants of sulfur-bearing reducing agent used in the reducing composition, it is more specifically thio Glycolic and thiolactic acid or their salt, especially alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salt, cysteine and theirs is mixed Compound.

The sulfur-bearing reducing agent used in the reducing composition is preferably thioglycolic acid and its salt, especially thio second Alkyd ammonium.

One or more sulfur-bearing reducing agents can with relative to the gross weight of the reducing composition from 0.1wt% to 50wt% amount, the amount preferably from 1wt% to 20wt% are present in the composition according to the present invention.

As noted above, it is at room temperature the fatty material of solid that the reducing composition, which includes one or more,.

Fatty material in the sense of the present invention be one kind at (20 DEG C -25 DEG C) generally at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg, or 1.013 × 10⁵Pa it is) not soluble in water, have less than 5%, preferably smaller than 1% and be even more preferably less than The organic compound of 0.1% water solubility.These fatty materials generally include one containing at least six carbon original in its structure The hydrocarbon chain of son.In addition, these fatty materials are generally dissolved in organic solvent under the conditions of identical temperature and pressure, such as Chloroform, ethanol, benzene, Albolene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

In addition, these fatty materials are not (poly-) oxygen alkylenes and not (poly-) is glycerinated.In other words, these fat Fat material does not include ethylene oxide or glycerine or propylene glycol units in its structure.

In the sense of the present invention, referred to by hard fat material under room temperature (20 DEG C -25 DEG C) and in atmospheric pressure Under (760mm Hg, or 1.013 × 10⁵Pa be not the fatty material of liquid under), more specifically a kind of compound of solid or Under these conditions in 1s^-1Shear rate under have more than 2Pa.s viscosity a kind of compound.

The hard fat material used in the reducing composition according to the present invention has the melting temperature more than room temperature, excellent Melting temperature of the choosing more than or equal to 40 DEG C, more preferably from 46 DEG C to 95 DEG C.

These can be selected from fatty alcohol, fatty acid ester and/or aliphatic alcohol ester, mineral for the fatty material of solid at room temperature Wax, vegetable wax or animal wax, fatty acid amide, silicone, hard fat ether and their mixture.

The alcohols for meeting below formula (I) is chosen more particularly from suitable for the solid fatty alcohol for implementing the present invention.

R¹-OH(I)

Wherein R¹Represent the C of the straight chain of a saturation₁₆-C₃₀Alkyl.

Example includes cetanol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetostearyl alcohol).More specifically, the on-liquid fat Fat alcohol is cetostearyl alcohol.

Specifically, these on-liquid fatty acid esters and/or aliphatic alcohol ester are included from C₉-C₂₆Aliphatic acid and from C₉-C₂₆Fat The solid ester that alcohol obtains.

These esters include behenic acid octyldodecyl ester, the different cetyl of behenic acid, cetyl lactate, octanoate, pungent It is misery ester, Octanoic acid, hexadecyl ester, decyl oleate, stearic acid myristin, octyl palmitate, cetin, octyl pelargonate, hard Resin acid monooctyl ester, myristic acid alkyl ester, such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or myristic acid stearyl ester, and Hexyl stearate.

This wax or these waxes are preferably non-silicone wax and in particular selected from mineral wax such as paraffin, ceresine, and vegetable wax is such as Olive wax, rice bran wax, the Jojoba wax of hydrogenation, Brazil wax, candelila wax and Alpha's wax, or pure floral wax (absolute Flower wax) the basic wax (essential wax) spent of the currant such as sold by Bertin companies (France), and animal Wax, such as beeswax or the beeswax of modification (cerabellina).

The solid acid amides that can be mentioned that includes ceramide.The ceramide that can be used in the composition according to the present invention Or ceramide-analogous (such as glycosyl ceramide (glycoceramide)) be known per se and be can meet it is following Natural or synthesis the molecule of logical formula (II)：

Wherein：

-R₁Represent one and be derived from C₁₄-C₃₀Saturated or unsaturated, straight chain or side chain the alkyl base of aliphatic acid Group, this group pass through saturated or unsaturated C₁₆-C₃₀Aliphatic acid esterification is possible in α positions by hydroxyl, or in ω positions by hydroxyl Substitution；

-R₂Represent a hydrogen atom or (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m or sulfo group galactosyl group, wherein n be from 1 to 4 integer and m is the integer from 1 to 8；

-R₃Expression one is saturated or unsaturated C in α positions₁₅-C₂₆Alkyl, this group are possible to one or more C₁-C₁₄Alkyl group substitutes；

Condition is the R in the case of natural ceramide or glycosyl ceramide₃It also may indicate that C₁₅-C₂₆α-hydroxyl alkane Base group, the oh group is alternatively by a kind of C₁₆-C₃₀'alpha '-hydroxy acids are esterified.

Preferable ceramide is in dermatology document by DOW CORNING (Downing) in the context of the present invention (Arch.Dermatol.) those described in, volume 123,1381-1384,1987, or in French Patent (FRP) FR 2 673 Those described in 179.

According to the present invention, particularly preferable this ceramide or these ceramides are wherein R₁Represent a derivative From C₁₆-C₂₂The saturated or unsaturated alkyl of aliphatic acid, R₂Represent hydrogen atom, and R₃Represent the C of saturation₁₅Straight chain group Compound.

This kind of compound is for example：

- N- sub-oleoyl dihydrosphingosines,

- N- oleoyl dihydrosphingosines,

- N- palmityl dihydrosphingosines,

- N- stearyl dihydrosphingosines,

- N- behenic acid acyl group dihydrosphingosines,

Or the mixture of these compounds.

Still it is highly preferred that having used wherein R₁Represent a saturated or unsaturated alkyl base for being derived from aliphatic acid Group, R₂Represent a galactosyl or sulfo group galactosyl, and R₃Represent-CH=CH- (a CH₂)₁₂-CH₃The nerve of group Acid amides.

Specifically, other waxes or waxy feedstock that can be used according to the present invention are typically Tissuemat E or polyolefin-wax.

The form of wax or resin can be taken according to the solid silicone of the present invention.They can be organically-modified.

The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used according to the present invention are included with the siloxane systems of the crosslinking of lower unit：

R₂SiO_2/2、R₃SiO_1/2、RSiO_3/2And SiO_4/2

Wherein R represents an alkyl with 1 to 16 carbon atom.In these products, wherein particularly preferably R Represent a C₁-C₄Those of low-grade alkyl group (more specifically methyl).

Among these resins, it can be mentioned that with the product of the sale of title DOW CORNING 593 or by General Electric Co. Limited (company General Electric) sold with title silicone fluid SS 4230 and SS4267 those, they are that have The silicone of dimethyl/trimethicone structure.

It can also refer to specifically by company of SHIN-ETSU HANTOTAI (Shin-Etsu) with title X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21- The trimethylsiloxysilicate type resin of 5037 sale.

Organically-modified silicone includes the polysiloxane containing alkoxy base, such as by Gao De Schmitts company (Goldschmidt) with title Abil2428th, the product of 2434 and 2440 sale.

These on-liquid aliphatic ethers are to be selected from the dialkyl ether and particularly two cetyl ethers individually or as mixture With distearyl ether.

What is used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is at room temperature to be preferably selected from for the fatty material of solid The ester and their mixture of fatty alcohol, aliphatic acid and fatty alcohol.

These fatty materials be more preferably selected from cetanol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, cetin and they Mixture.

Still it is highly preferred that these hard fat materials are selected from containing from the straight chain, saturation of 12 to 30 carbon atoms Fatty alcohol, and more specifically it is selected from cetanol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture.

At room temperature for solid this fatty material or these materials can with relative to the gross weight of said composition from 0.1wt% to 30wt% total amount, the total amount preferably from 1wt% to 20wt% and total more preferably from 2wt% to 15wt% Amount is present in the reducing composition according to the present invention.

, at room temperature can be with relative for this fatty material or these materials of solid according to a preferred embodiment In total amount of the gross weight from 4wt% to 30wt% of the reducing composition and the total amount more preferably from 4.5wt% to 20wt% It is present in the reducing composition according to the present invention.

As noted above, the reducing composition further includes one or more cationic surfactants.

The cationic surfactant used in the reducing composition can be selected from it is alternatively polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or The salt of tertiary fatty amine, quaternary ammonium salt, and their mixture.

The cationic surfactant used in the reducing composition is preferably quaternary ammonium salt.

Quaternary ammonium salt especially includes, such as：

- correspond to below general formula (III) those：

Wherein group R₈To R₁₁, can be same or different, represent a straight chain contained from 1 to 30 carbon atom Or the aliphatic group of side chain, or aromatic group such as an aryl or alkaryl, wherein group R₈To R₁₁In it is at least one An alkyl group contained from the straight or branched of 10 to 30 carbon atoms is represented, and X- represents an organic or inorganic the moon Ion.These aliphatic groups can include multiple hetero atoms, in particular such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogen.Aliphatic group is choosing From such as C_1-30Alkyl, C_1-30Alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C₂-C₆)、C_1-30Alkylamide, alkyl (C₁₂-C₂₂) aminoalkyl (C₂- C₆) and C_1-30Hydroxyalkyl group；X is selected from halogen ion, phosphate radical, acetate, lactate, alkyl (C₂-C₆) sulfate radical and One anion of alkyl-or alkylaryl-sulfonate radical.

In the quaternary ammonium salt with chemical formula (III), the chloride of preferably tetra-allkylammonium is given first, such as, The chloride of dialkyl dimethyl ammonium or alkyl trimethyl ammonium, the wherein alkyl group include about from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more Specifically behenyl base trimethyl ammonium, distearyl Dimethyl Ammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium ammonium and benzyl dimethoylstearyl ammonium Chloride, or, secondly, palmityl amido hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or bisisostearamidopropyldimonium (myristyl second Acid esters)-ammonium chloride, it is with title by Daniel van Dijk company (Van Dyk)70 sales.

The quaternary ammonium salt of-imidazoline, such as those with below formula (IV)：

Wherein R₁₂Represent containing the alkenyl or alkyl base from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived from such as tallow acid Group, R₁₃Represent a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₄Alkyl group contains the alkenyl or alkyl base from 8 to 30 carbon atoms Group, R₁₄Represent a C₁-C₄Alkyl group, R₁₅Represent a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₄Alkyl group, X^-Be selected from halogen ion, A kind of anion of phosphate radical, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate and alkyl-or alkyl aryl sulphonic acid root.Preferably, R₁₂And R₁₃A kind of mixture of the alkenyl containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms or alkyl group is represented, such as derived from tallow Fat acid (tallow fatty acid), R₁₄Represent a methyl group and R₁₅Represent a hydrogen atom.Such production Product are with title for example by auspicious fertile (Rewo) companyWhat W 75 was sold；

- season two ammonium or three ammonium salts, particularly with below formula (V)：

In the chemical formula (V)：

R₁₆Represent that one contains about from the alkyl group of 16 to 30 carbon atoms, the group is alternatively hydroxylated And/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms；

R₁₇It is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group or group-(CH contained from 1 to 4 carbon atom₂)₃-N⁺(R_16a)(R_17a) (R_18a), X^-；

R_16a、R_17a、R_18a、R₁₈、R₁₉、R₂₀And R₂₁, can be same or different, be selected from hydrogen and one contain from The alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atom；And

X^-, can be same or different, represent an organic or inorganic anionic counter-ion, such as selected from halogen from Son, acetate, phosphate radical, nitrate anion, alkyl (C₁-C₄) sulfate radical, alkyl (C₁-C₄)-or alkyl (C₁-C₄) aryl-sulfonic acid root, More particularly methylsulfate and ethyl sulphate.

Such compound is for example to reach Finquat CT-P obtained by (Finetex) company from putting forth energy (Quaternium (quaternary ammonium salt) 89), and reach Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) obtained by company from putting forth energy；

- quaternary ammonium salts of one or more ester functional groups is included, as with below formula (VI)：

In the chemical formula (VI)：

R₂₂It is to be selected from C₁-C₆Alkyl group and C₁-C₆Hydroxyalkyl or C₁-C₆Dihydroxyalkyl group；

R₂₃It is to be selected from：

- group

- straight or branched, saturation or undersaturated C₁-C₂₂Hydrocarbyl group R₂₇,

- one hydrogen atom,

R₂₅It is to be selected from：

- group

- straight or branched, saturation or undersaturated C₁-C₆Hydrocarbyl group R₂₉,

- one hydrogen atom,

R₂₄、R₂₆And R₂₈, it is same or different, selected from straight or branched, saturation or undersaturated C₇-C₂₁Alkyl Group；

R, it s and t, can be same or different, be the integer from 2 to 6,

R1 and t1, can be same or different, equal to 0 or 1, wherein r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t,

Y be from an integer in the range of 1 to 10,

It x and z, can be same or different, be the integer from 0 to 10,

X^-An organic or inorganic anionic counter-ion is represented,

Its condition is that x+y+z sums are equal to from 1 to 15, when x is 0, then R₂₃Represent R₂₇And when z is 0, then R₂₅Table Show R₂₉。

These alkyl groups R₂₂Can be straight chain or side chain, and more particularly straight chain.

Preferably, R₂₂Represent a methyl, ethyl, ethoxy or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly methyl or second Base group.

Advantageously, x+y+z sums have the value from 1 to 10.

Work as R₂₃It is a R₂₇During hydrocarbyl group, it can be long and can have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or can To be short and can have from 1 to 3 carbon atom.

Work as R₂₅It is a R₂₉During hydrocarbyl group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atom.

Advantageously, R₂₄、R₂₆And R₂₈, can be same or different, be to be selected from straight or branched, saturation or insatiable hunger The C of sum₁₁-C₂₁Hydrocarbyl group, and more particularly selected from straight or branched, saturation or undersaturated C₁₁-C₂₁Alkyl and alkenyl Group.

Preferably, it x and z, can be same or different, be equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, it is same or different, is 2 or 3, and more particularly they are 2.

Anionic counter-ion X^-Preferably a kind of halogen ion, such as chlorion, bromide ion or iodide ion；Alkyl (C₁-C₄) sulfate radical or alkyl (C₁-C₄)-or alkyl (C₁-C₄) aryl-sulfonic acid root.However, it is possible to using Loprazolam root, Phosphate radical, nitrate anion or tosylate；A kind of anion derived from organic acid, such as acetate or lactate；Or with ester official Can any other compatible anion of property ammonium.

Anionic counter-ion X^-Even more particularly chlorion, methylsulfate or ethyl sulphate.

More particularly using the ammonium salt with chemical formula (VI) in the composition according to the present invention, in the chemical formula In：

-R₂₂A methyl or ethyl group are represented,

- x and y is equal to 1,

- z is equal to 0 or 1,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

-R₂₃It is selected from：

Group

Methyl, ethyl or C₁₄-C₂₂Alkyl,

One hydrogen atom,

-R₂₅It is selected from：

Group

One hydrogen atom,

-R₂₄、R₂₆And R₂₈, can be same or different, selected from straight or branched, saturation or undersaturated C₁₃- C₁₇Alkyl, and it is preferably selected from straight or branched, saturation or undersaturated C₁₃-C₁₇Alkyl or alkenyl.

Advantageously, these alkyl are straight chains.

For example, in the compound with formula (VI), it is mentioned that two dimethylbenzylammonium ammoniums, two acyloxy Ethyl-hydroxyethyl ammonium methyl, a trimethylammonium dihydroxy ethyl ammonium methyl, three acyloxy ethyl-methyl ammoniums and an acyloxy second Base hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium salt class (especially chloride or Methylsulfate), and the mixture of these compounds.These acyls Base group preferably has 14 to 18 carbon atoms and is more particularly derived from vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil.When the change When compound includes multiple carboxyl groups, these groups can be same or different.

These products are, for example, to pass through triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyl diisopropanolamine (DIPA) (it Alternatively by oxygen alkylene) with the direct esterification of the aliphatic acid or fatty acid mixt of plant or animal sources or passing through its methyl esters Transesterification obtain.Follow this esterification closely is by alkylating agent such as alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl halogenation Thing), dialkylsulfates (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfide acid esters), methyl mesylate, methyl tosylate, glycol chlorohydrin Or glycerin chlorohydrin (chloropropyl alcohol, glycerol chlorohydrin) is quaternized.

Such compound is, for example, with title by Henkel (Henkel) companySell, by Si Taipan (Stepan) company is with titleSell, by Ceca companies with titleSell, by Rui Wo-micro- gram (Rewo-Witco) company of crowing is with titleWhat WE 18 was sold.

Such as mixture of quaternary ammonium monoesters, diester and three ester salt, the mixing can be included according to the composition of the present invention Thing has the diester salt of main (most of weight) by weight.

It is also possible to contain at least one ester official using described in patent US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 The ammonium salt that can be rolled into a ball.

The behenyl acyl group hydroxyl as obtained by flower king (Kao) company with title Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

Preferably, these ammonium salts for containing at least one ester functional group include Liang Ge esters functional group.

In the quaternary ammonium salt comprising at least one ester functional group that can be used, preferably using two palmityl ethyl hydroxyl second Ylmethyl ammonium salt.

The cationic surfactant used in these reducing compositions is preferably selected from the quaternary ammonium with chemical formula (III) Salt and the quaternary ammonium salt for including at least one ester functional group, especially it is selected from those for corresponding to chemical formula (VI).

The cationic surfactant used in the composition is preferably selected from behenyl base trimethyl ammonium, distearyl diformazan Base ammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium ammonium and benzyl dimethoylstearyl ammonium salt, and especially chloride, or also have, it is alternative Ground, selected from palmityl amido oxypropyl trimethyl ammonium or bisisostearamidopropyldimonium (myristyl acetate)-ammonium salt and Especially chloride.

The cationic surfactant used in reducing composition is more preferably selected from the salt with chemical formula (III).

Still it is highly preferred that the cationic surfactant is CTAB or behenyl base trimethyl ammonia chloride Ammonium.

The cationic surfactant used in the reducing composition of the present invention can be with relative to the reducing composition Amount of the gross weight from 0.1wt% to 30wt%, more preferably from 0.5wt% to 20wt%, preferably from 1wt% to 10wt% exist In the reducing composition.

According to the preferred embodiment of the present invention, on the one hand, be at room temperature one or more fat compositions of solid The total amount of matter is less than or equal to 2.5 with another aspect, the weight ratio of the total amount of one or more cationic surfactants, should Weight ratio is preferably between 0.1 and 2.5 and more preferably between 1 and 2.5.

As noted above, the reducing composition additionally comprises two kinds or more than two kinds nonionic surface active agent, this A little nonionic surface active agent selected from the ethylene oxide unit number more than or equal to 10 and in them at least Two kinds of HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) more than or equal to 2 poor polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

In other words, the polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol for having the ethylene oxide unit number more than or equal to 10 is selected as making Obtain and such at least two compound in the reducing composition be present, it is poor more than or equal to 2 HLB to show.

HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) in the sense that Griffin in Science article cosmetic chemistry magazine (J.Soc.Cosm.Chem.) 1954 (volume 5), it is defined in the 249-256 pages.

The polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surface active agent present in the reducing composition is selected from comprising at least ten Oxyethylene group group, (poly-) the oxygen alkylene preferably from 10 to 200 oxyethylene group groups, more preferably rolled into a ball from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups Fatty alcohol.

The aliphatic chain of fatty alcohol is non-annularity and at least six carbon atom is included in its structure.

In other words, the fat of the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surface active agent used in the composition according to the present invention Fat alcohol is a kind of non-annularity alcohol that at least six carbon atom is included in its structure.

These nonionic surface active agent are preferably selected from the fatty alcohol of oxyethylation, and the aliphatic chain of the wherein fatty alcohol is C₈-C₃₀, preferably C₁₀-C₂₂, more preferably C₁₆-C₂₂, more particularly C₁₈, its be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched and And comprising at least ten oxyethylene group group, such as, the adduct (adduct) of ethylene oxide and laruyl alcohol, especially include from 10 to 100 oxyethylene groups group those and more particularly include and (ordered from those of 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups groups in CTFA Laureth (Laureth) -10 is to laureth -50 in name method)；The adduct of ethylene oxide and docosyl alcohol, especially Comprising from 10 to 100 oxyethylene groups group those and more particularly include from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups groups those ( Docosyl alcohol polyethers -10 is to docosyl alcohol polyethers -30 in CTFA nomenclatures)；Ethylene oxide and cetostearyl alcohol (cetanol and stearyl alcohol Mixture) adduct, especially include that (spermaceti is hard in CTFA nomenclatures from those of 10 to 100 oxyethylene groups group Lipidol polyethers -10 is to ceteareth -100)；The adduct of ethylene oxide and cetanol, especially include from 10 to 100 Individual oxyethylene group group those and more particularly include those (in CTFA nomenclatures whales from 10 to 45 oxyethylene groups groups Ceryl alcohol polyethers -10 is to ceteth -45)：The adduct of ethylene oxide and stearyl alcohol, especially include from 10 to 100 oxygen Those (in CTFA nomenclatures stereth -10 to stereth 100) of vinyl group；Ethylene oxide and isooctadecanol Adduct, especially include from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups group those (in CTFA nomenclatures isosteareth -10 to Isosteareth -50)；The adduct of ethylene oxide and decyl alcohol, especially those comprising 10 oxyethylene groups group are (in CTFA Decyl alcohol polyethers -10 in nomenclature)；The adduct of ethylene oxide and oleyl alcohol, especially include what is rolled into a ball from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups Those and more particularly include that (oleth -10 is to oil in CTFA nomenclatures from those of 10 to 106 oxyethylene groups group Alcohol polyethers -106)；The adduct of ethylene oxide and different cetanol, comprising from 10 to 30 oxyethylene group groups (such as different cetanol Polyethers -10, different ceteth -15, different ceteth -20 and different ceteth -25) and their mixture.

In one embodiment of the invention, the fatty alcohol of the oxyethylation is saturation.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol of the oxyethylation is straight chain.

According to one embodiment, the adduct of ethylene oxide and stearyl alcohol has more specifically been used, has especially been included from 10 To those (in the CTFA nomenclatures stereth -10 to stereth -100) of 100 oxyethylene groups group.

The reducing composition preferably comprises at least the C of two kinds of oxyethylations₈-C₃₀, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂, more particularly C₁₆-C₂₂、 Especially C₁₈Fatty alcohol, it is poor more than or equal to 2 HLB to have, and has the ethylene oxide unit number from 10 to 100.

According to one embodiment, the reducing composition includes the C of two kinds of oxyethylations₈-C₃₀Fatty alcohol, these fatty alcohol bags Oxyethylene group containing at least ten is rolled into a ball and with poor more than or equal to 2 HLB.

According to further embodiment, the reducing composition includes the C of three kinds of oxyethylations₈-C₃₀Fatty alcohol, these fatty alcohols Include at least ten oxyethylene group group, it then follows condition be that at least two kinds of show of the nonionic surface active agent is more than It is or poor equal to 2 HLB.

Comprising at least ten oxyethylene group group fatty alcohol can with relative to the gross weight of the reducing composition from 0.1wt% to 30wt% total amount, preferably from 0.3wt% to 20wt%, the amount more preferably from 1wt% to 10wt% is present in this In reducing composition.

According to the preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol comprising at least ten oxyethylene group group can be with relative In the reducing composition gross weight be more than or equal to 1.5wt%, scope preferably from 1.5wt% to 30wt%, more preferably from 1.5wt% to 20wt%, the total amount more preferably from 1.5wt% to 10wt% are present.

According to a first embodiment, the reducing composition includes one or more thiol reductants, one or more exist At room temperature for solid and selected from the fatty material of fatty alcohol, one or more cationic surfactants, two kinds or more than two Kind nonionic surface active agent, these nonionic surface active agent are selected from the ethylene oxide unit more than or equal to 10 Several polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, condition are at least two polyoxies with the ethylene oxide unit number more than or equal to 10 It is poor more than or equal to 2 HLB that the fatty alcohol of alkylene is shown.

Cationic surfactant is preferably selected from those with chemical formula (III).

According to further embodiment, the reducing composition includes one or more thiol reductants, and one or more are in room Temperature is lower for solid and selected from fatty alcohol, fatty acid ester and/or aliphatic alcohol ester, mineral wax, vegetable wax or animal wax, fatty acyl Amine, silicone, the fatty material of hard fat ether and their mixture, one or more are selected from chemical formula (III) The cationic surfactant of quaternary ammonium salt, two kinds or more than two kinds nonionic surface active agent, these non-ionic surfaces are lived Property agent be selected from more than or equal to 10 ethylene oxide unit number polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, condition is described at least two It is poor more than or equal to 2 HLB that polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol with the ethylene oxide unit number more than or equal to 10 is shown.

These fatty materials are preferably selected from fatty alcohol.

Cationic surfactant is preferably selected from quaternary ammonium salt and is preferably selected from the compound with chemical formula (III).

According to still another embodiment, the reducing composition includes one or more thiol reductants, one or more exist It is at room temperature solid and is selected from the fatty material of fatty alcohol, one or more selected from quaternary ammonium salt (especially with chemical formula (II) those) cationic surfactant, two kinds or more than two kinds nonionic surface active agent, these nonionic tables Face activating agent is selected from the fatty alcohol of the oxyethylation with the ethylene oxide unit number more than or equal to 10, and condition is at least two The polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of the ethylene oxide unit number with more than or equal to 10 shows the HLB more than or equal to 2 Difference.

According to the present embodiment, the fatty alcohol of oxyethylation is preferably selected from the oxidation from 10 to 100 oxyethylene group groups Ethene and C₈-C₃₀The adduct of fatty alcohol.

According to above-described embodiment, the reducing composition preferably comprises one or more spices, and these are a kind of odorants (odorant) mixture of compound or a variety of odorant compounds.Odorant compound and spices are included in 1996 Encyclopedia of chemical technology, Kirk Othmer [Ke Keaosimo chemical encyclopedias] fourth edition The 171-201 pages William L.Schreiber of volume 18 article " Perfumes (spices) " described in those.

Mixture of the reducing composition of the present invention generally comprising water or water and one or more common organic solvents.

Suitable organic solvent more specifically includes non-aromatic single methanol such as ethanol and isopropanol, or polyalcohol or polyalcohol Ether such as glycol monoethyl ether, single ether and monobutyl ether, propane diols or its ether such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butanediol, DPG and also diethylene glycol alkyl ether, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, or also polyalcohol is such as Glycerine.Polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol and the mixture of all these compounds are also used as solvent.

Above-mentioned organic solvent (if present) generally represent relative to said composition gross weight from 0.1wt% to 15wt%, more preferably 0.5wt% are to 5wt%.

It is typically from 7 to 10 and preferably from 7.5 to 9.5 according to the pH of the reducing composition of the present invention.It can lead to Addition alkaline reagent or acidulant are crossed to adjust, these alkaline reagents such as ammoniacal liquor, monoethanolamine, diethanol amine, triethanolamine, different Propanolamine, 2- methyl-2-amino -1- propyl alcohol, propane -1,3- diamines, guanidine, arginine, ammonium or alkali carbonate or bicarbonate Salt, organic carbon hydrochlorate such as guanidine carbonate or also alkali metal hydroxide, these acidulants for example hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, Citric acid and phosphoric acid.

A kind of alkaline agent is preferably comprised at least according to the composition of the present invention.

The reducing composition can more specifically include ammoniacal liquor, ammonium hydrogen carbonate or one or more alkanolamines, especially singly Monoethanolamine.

One or more additional cosmetic agents can be additionally comprised according to the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

The additional cosmetic agents of this one or more can be selected from anion, cation, nonionic, both sexes and amphiphilic from Sub- polymer or its mixture；Anionic surfactant, the nonionic different from nonionic surfactant of the invention Surfactant or amphoteric surfactant；Pigment；Thickener；Antioxidant；Bleeding agent (penetrant)；Chelating agent；It is fragrant Material；Buffer；Dispersant；Reduce conditioning agent such as two thio-acids, such as two thiodiglycols acid and its salt；Film forming agent；Preservative；It is stable Agent；And opacifier.

One or more spices are preferably comprised according to the reducing composition of the present invention.

Certainly, those skilled in the art will select this or these compounds for optionally adding with caution, so make To the intrinsic related advantageous feature of the composition according to the present invention will not by or will not be substantially by the one kind or more The adverse effect of additive contemplated by kind.

Above adjuvant be typically with relative to the gross weight of said composition, for each of which 0 with 20wt% it Between amount exist.

The reducing composition can preferably comprise one or more thickeners, and it can be selected from association (associative) Or non-associated, non-ionic or cation, zwitterionic, both sexes or anion, natural or synthesis polymerization Thickener, and it is selected from non-polymeric thickener, such as electrolyte or sugar.

These polymeric viscosifiers include, for example, cellulose thickener, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose with And carboxymethyl cellulose, guar gum and its derivative, such as the hydroxypropyl sold by Rhodia with title Jaguar HP 105 Base guar gum, microbe-derived glue, such as xanthans and scleroglucan glue (scleroglucan gum), the polymerization of synthesis thickens The acrylic acid or acrylamido propanesulfonic acid homopolymer of agent, such as crosslinking, such as carbomer (Carbomer), nonionic, it is cloudy from Son or the association polymer of both sexes, such as by Goodrich (Goodrich) company with title Pemulen TR1 or TR2, by Britain (Allied Colloids) company of association colloid company with Salcare SC90, by rom and Haars Co., Ltd (Rohm＆Haas) with The title of Aculyn22,28,33,44 or 46 and sold by Aksu (Akzo) company with Elfacos T210 and T212 poly- Compound.

The cosmetic composition preferably comprises one or more and is selected from non-ionic thickening agent, and more particularly polysaccharide is additional Thickener.

The reducing composition exists preferably in the form of emulsion.

Viscosity at 25 DEG C from 2 to 20Pa.s can advantageously be had according to the reducing composition of the present invention, more preferably From 2 to 15Pa.s and still more preferably from 2.5 to 10Pa.s.

The viscosity of the reducing composition is equipped with rotor 3 (MS r3) or (MS of rotor 4 at 25 DEG C by means of one R4) the rotation viscometers of Rheomat 180 (Jean Lamy SA) of the anchor/cylinder geometry with 200 revs/min of rotary speed Come what is determined, wherein using the calibration curve provided by viscosimeter supplier.

Present invention is equally related to the permanent change that one kind is used for keratin fiber, more specifically human keratin fibres such as hair The method of shape processing, this method include performing following steps：

(i) will be administered to according to the reducing composition of the present invention on the fiber, and allow through being enough to shape when Between, and

(ii) alternatively, a kind of oxidising composition is administered to and is persistently enough the time for fixing the shape on the fiber.

Using allow after the reducing composition by stand-by period be usually from 5 to 60 minutes, particularly from 3 to 30 Minute.

The oxidising composition used in (ii) the permanent deformation method the step of is routinely comprising one or more oxidations Agent, typically aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, alkali metal bromate, persalt or polythionate, and even more preferably peroxidating Aqueous solution of hydrogen.

The pH of the oxidising composition is typically from 2 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, more preferably from 2 to 4.

The stand-by period of the oxidising composition is usually from 2 to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 to 15 minutes.

Specifically, using according to the present invention reducing composition to reduce the disulfide bond in keratin, wherein in institute State administration before, during or after keratin fiber is placed under mechanical tension (mechanical tension).

When a hairdressing operation is desired, give preferably with mechanical device (such as curling-tong) so as to by angle Azelon is placed under tension force, wherein before hair building mortion, during or after (after preferably) apply according to this hair Bright reducing composition.

A diameter of curly hair from 2 to 30mm can be wound into advance by being administered to according to the reducing composition of the present invention On the hair of wetting on cylinder.The reducing composition can also be applied together with the winding of hair.On the whole, this is then allowed Reducing composition acts on one time of 5 to 60 minutes.

After the reducing composition according to the present invention is applied, it is also possible to pass through the temperature between 30 DEG C and 250 DEG C Lower heating makes whole hair continue the whole or a part of residence time through heat-treated.In practice, one can be used Moulding head-shield, hair-dryer, circle or flat fishplate, infrared ray distributor and other heating utensils perform this operation.

Specifically, it is possible to which use is between 60 DEG C and 230 DEG C and preferably at a temperature of between 120 DEG C with 230 DEG C Heating tongs not only as heater but also be used as hair building mortion, wherein these heating tongs be reducing composition administration it Used after the step of interim (centre) afterwards is rinsed.

This curling-tong can be a kind of heating tool in itself.

Then hair that is rolling or opening a book will be administered to for re-forming the oxidising composition of keratin disulfide, Typically last for the residence time from 2 to 30 minutes.

It is loose or in the case of stretching processing in hair, the reducing composition is applied on hair, and then by Hair is set to be subjected to machinery in a hair flattening operations, with one big stripping fork, with the comb back of a comb, with hand or with a brush Deform for hair to be fixed into its new shape.The residence time is usually from 5 to 60 minutes.

This apply can also and then one heating, especially with a clamping plate (iron).

, can also using a heating clamping plate between 60 DEG C and 230 DEG C and preferably between 120 DEG C and 230 DEG C Wholly or partly hair is carried out to stretch.

Then oxidising composition defined above is applied, and it is acted on normally about 2 to 30 minutes, generally uses water afterwards Alternatively cleaning down hair.

After permanent deformation processing method has been performed, these keratin fibers are alternatively rinsed.

Preferably, the keratin fiber of the oxidising composition is impregnated with water cleaning down.These keratin fibers can be with Alternatively with need to maintain them under tension force device (before or after) separate.

Then these keratin fibers can be washed with shampoo, rinsed and dried or dry.

The permanent deformation processing method is preferably one kind and is used for straight keratin fiber, and more specifically human keratin is fine The method of dimension such as hair.

Following instance is used to illustrate the present invention, but without restricted.

Example

I.Reducing composition

Reducing composition (A), (B) and (C) is prepared by the composition indicated from following table with the percentage by weight of product：

(1) cationic surfactant sold by Clariant Corporation (Clariant) with title Genamin CTAC 25

(2) gone out by ecological ideas chemical company (Ecogreen Oleochemicals) with title Ecorol 68/50P The fatty alcohol sold

(3) nonionic surface active agent sold by standing grain major company (Croda) with title Brij S20-SO- (AP), HLB=15.3

(4) nonionic surface active agent sold by standing grain major company with title Brij S 100-PA- (SG), HLB= 18.5

(5) nonionic surface active agent sold by standing grain major company with title Brij S 10-SO- (SG), HLB= 12.4

(6) nonionic surface active agent sold by standing grain major company (Croda) with title Brij C2-SO- (AP), HLB =5.3

(7) reducing agent sold by Bruno Bock companies

(8) chelating sold by Dow Chemical (Dow Chemical) with title Versenex 80

II.Physicochemical property

The viscosity of reducing composition (A), (B) and (C) is that one is used at 25 DEG C equipped with rotor 3 (MS r3) or is turned The Rheomat180 rotary viscosity design determinings of sub 4 (MS Rr) anchor/cylinder geometries.In 200 revs/min of rotary speeies and The value read after the time of 10 minutes is represented with deviation metric (DU) and is converted to Cps (mPa.s) based on supplier data.

As a result arrange in the following table：

Table A：Viscosity of the reducing composition after spices is added, with Cps (mPa.s)

Table B：Viscosity of the reducing composition before spices is added, with Cps (mPa.s)

It was found that Comparative composition (A) and (B) have the lower final viscosity of the viscosity than composition (C), and send out The ratio of viscosities composition (A) of existing composition (C) and the viscosity of (B) change smaller in the fabrication process.

III.Permanent deformation method

Reducing composition (C) is administered on the hair washed in advance, throughout whole hairs.

After the stand-by period of 30 minutes, hair is rinsed with water.Then the oxidation of L'OREAL (FR) (L ' Or é al) will be come from " Fixateur X Tenso Moisturist " are administered on whole hairs composition.After the stand-by period of 10 minutes, rinse Hair.

It was observed that hair has very straight outward appearance and the very sensation of pleasant.

Claims (10)

1. cosmetic composition is reduced, comprising：

- one or more sulfur-bearing reducing agents, it is selected from thiol reductant, in an amount of from total relative to the reduction cosmetic composition The 0.1wt% of weight to 50wt%,

- one or more are the fatty material of solid at room temperature, and it is selected from and includes the straight of the saturation from 12 to 30 carbon atoms Chain fatty alcohol, in an amount of from relative to it is described reduction cosmetic composition gross weight 0.1wt% to 30wt%,

- one or more cationic surfactants, it is selected from quaternary ammonium salt, in an amount of from relative to the reduction cosmetic composition The 0.1wt% of gross weight to 30wt%, and

- two kinds or more than two kinds nonionic surface active agent, these nonionic surface active agent, which are selected to have, to be more than or waits In the polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of 10 ethylene oxide unit number, condition is at least two oxygen having more than or equal to 10 Changing the polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of ethylene unit number has the HLB for being more than or equal to 2 poor, is made up in an amount of from relative to the reduction The 0.1wt% of product composition total weight to 30wt%；

- the nonionic surface active agent be selected from oxyethylation, straight or branched, saturation or undersaturated, C₈-C₃₀Fat Fat alcohol.

2. reduction cosmetic composition according to claim 1, it is characterised in that these sulfur-bearing reducing agents are selected from thio Glycolic, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2- mercaptos It is base propionic acid, 3- mercaptopropionic acids, Thiodiglycol, 2 mercapto ethanol, dithiothreitol (DTT), Thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thio Propionic acid, N-acetylcystein and its esters.

3. reduction cosmetic composition according to claim 1, it is characterised in that these are the fat of solid at room temperature Material is to be selected from cetanol, stearyl alcohol and its mixture.

4. reduction cosmetic composition according to claim 1, it is characterised in that these cationic surfactants are choosings From：

- corresponding to the quaternary ammonium salt of below general formula (III)：

Wherein group R₈To R₁₁, it is same or different, represents the fat containing the straight or branched from 1 to 30 carbon atom Race's group, or aromatic group, wherein group R₈To R₁₁In at least one expression contain straight chain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms Or the alkyl group of side chain, and X^-Represent organic or inorganic anion.

5. reduction cosmetic composition according to claim 4, it is characterised in that the aromatic group is aryl or alkane Aryl.

6. reduction cosmetic composition according to claim 1, it is characterised in that these nonionic surface active agent are Selected from oxyethylation, straight or branched, saturation or undersaturated C₁₂-C₂₂Fatty alcohol.

7. reduction cosmetic composition according to claim 1, it is characterised in that these nonionic surface active agent are Adduct selected from ethylene oxide and stearyl alcohol, comprising from 10 to 100 oxyethylene group groups.

8. reduction cosmetic composition according to claim 1, it is characterised in that the reduction cosmetic composition is further Include one or more spices.

9. the method for the permanent deformation processing for keratin fiber, this method include performing following steps：

(i) will be reduced defined in any one of claim 1 to 8 cosmetic composition be administered to as described on fiber, and And allow by being enough the time shaped.

10. method according to claim 9, this method also includes performing following steps：

(ii) oxidising composition is administered to and is persistently enough the time for fixing the shape on the fiber.