CN104379114A - Cosmetic composition comprising non-interference scattering particles and aerogel particles, and cosmetic lightening method - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition comprising non-interference scattering particles and aerogel particles, and cosmetic lightening method Download PDFInfo
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- CN104379114A CN104379114A CN201380031917.1A CN201380031917A CN104379114A CN 104379114 A CN104379114 A CN 104379114A CN 201380031917 A CN201380031917 A CN 201380031917A CN 104379114 A CN104379114 A CN 104379114A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
Abstract
Cosmetic composition comprising non-interference scattering white particles and aerogel particles, and cosmetic lightening method The subject of the invention is therefore a composition for topical application comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oil, at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and at least 0.1% by weight of non-interference scattering white particles characterized by 0.3 [mu]m<D50<40 [mu]m and 1.7<RI<2.2. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for lightening and/or homogenizing the skin and/or the lips, comprising the topical application of such a composition, and to a makeup method comprising at least one step of applying such a cosmetic composition.
Description
The present invention relates to the compositions for local application, described compositions comprises at least non-interfering type scattering particles and at least hydrophobic aerogels particle in physiologically acceptable medium.
Theme of the present invention is also highlight and/or the cosmetic method of homogenize skin and/or lip, and described method comprises and this compositions locally applied to skin or lip, the especially shade of skin of face and around eyes.
The people of shade having coloured skin or show mottle, acne erythematosa or around eyes usually wishes to correct these dyschromasia and uses for this purpose and can highlight and the cosmetics of the homogenize colour of skin or dermatological compositions.For this reason, known way uses the cosmetic composition containing whitening agent.
The most frequently used material making whitening agent be hydroquinone and derivant, kojic acid and derivant thereof, Azelaic Acid, arbutin and derivant, vitamin C and derivant thereof (such as, ascorbic acid (ascorbyl) magnesium phosphate or ascorbic acid glucoside), they are independent or combinationally use with other activating agent.
But, need long-time and use these medicaments with high amount, to observe whitening effect on skin.In addition, wink and effect can not be observed after using the compositions comprising them.
Known way uses containing the product of coated interference pigment, although they can cover skin defect, they have major defect that is that give glowing skin instead of very natural outward appearance.In addition, these pigment have the characteristic giving pearlescent appearance and the strongly painted product containing them.
Also known way uses to make homogeneous and optionally imparting wink and white appearance the cosmetic composition of the colour of skin, and these compositionss are made up of the powder be dispersed in binding agent.The filler (depending on the effect of expectation) of powder normally white or coloured pigment (depending on the effect of expectation) and/or difformity (flake, spherical).The colour of skin is substantially homogeneous by means of the covering power provided by pigment and filler.The shortcoming of such composition is, dying down of skin defect is that covering power by compositions provides.The skin of making up thus loses its natural outward appearance because these compositionss lack the transparency.
Finally, namely highlight and the object of the homogenize colour of skin for wink, known way uses the cosmetic composition containing fluorescent chemicals; Especially the optical brightener be described in application EP-A-0 962 224 or WO-00/71085 can be remembered, such as stilbene derivatives, coumarin derivative, oxazole and benzoxazole derivative and imdazole derivatives.
But, still the cosmetic composition for local application is needed, described compositions can obtain and wink namely highlight effect, especially for the colour of skin, or the rectification of more generally dyschromasia, especially concealer effect, they do not have strong covering power and do not have strong color, and can not give glowing skin or opaque and factitious outward appearance.In addition, they are multipurpose (poluvalent), and are easily suitable for dissimilar skin, because preparation does not need to have the tone strictly identical with the colour of skin of individuality.
Astoundingly, recognize, this target can by introducing hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle and being characterised in that 0.3 μm <D50<40 μm and the combination of the non-interfering type white scattering particles of 1.7<RI<2.2, especially boron nitride particles realizes in the cosmetic composition containing at least one oil.
Theme of the present invention is cosmetic composition, and it highlights and homogenize skin or lip, the especially colour of skin, and when its feature is to use as snug as a bug in a rug.These compositionss contain aeroge (preferred hydrophobic silica) and the boron nitride particles of effective dose in the physiologically acceptable medium containing oil.
Compositions of the present invention can take the form of the powder of excellent or the loose or compacting of gel, serosity, directly emulsion, reversed-phase emulsion and multiple emulsion, hot-cast.
Therefore, theme of the present invention is cosmetic composition, described compositions is particularly suited for locally applying to skin and/or lip, and it comprises at least one oil, relative to the specific non-interfering type scattering particles of the gross weight at least 0.1 % by weight of described compositions and at least hydrophobic aerogels particle in physiologically acceptable medium.
Compositions of the present invention can give the quality that their skin (especially the colour of skin) of using improves immediately in homogeneity, uniformity, transparency and whiteness.These compositionss also can have shielding.These compositionss also can highlight lip.
Therefore, theme of the present invention is also intended to namely to highlight for wink and/or the cosmetic method of homogenize skin and/or lip, especially skin.
Therefore, theme of the present invention be also at least hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle with at least 0.1 % by weight feature be 0.3 μm <D50<40 μm and the purposes be combined in for weakening in the cosmetic composition of skin defect of the non-interfering type white scattering particles of 1.7<RI<2.2.
Compositions of the present invention also can reduce discovering the skin defect on skin surface, covers wrinkle and pore particularly and/or covers up coloured defect of skin, i.e. punctation or flaw.
In addition, the combination of hydrophobic aerogels particle and non-interfering type scattering particles can obtain when using comfortable and soft and have the compositions of delustring and soft focus character.
non-interfering type white scattering particles
Term " scattering particles " refers to the particle showing the light scattering not showing preference direction.Therefore, the particle (being called " interference " particle) of optical interference effects is shown the most especially from wherein getting rid of.Similarly, demonstrate the particle of shinny effect, such as metallic or other particle (such as bismuth oxychloride) with metal effect are got rid of from it.
Term " white " refers to the particle relative to primary colors and induced color thereof with white and induced color (canescence, Snow Flower White etc.) thereof.
Particularly, white particles has the brightness value L * close to 100 in CIELab76 system.
White scattering particles of the present invention has the mean refractive index of 1.7 to 2.2.This is because if particle has the refractive index higher than 2.2, the opacity of compositions can be too high, and if this refractive index lower than 1.7, highlighting effect can be insufficient.
White particles of the present invention has continuous print effect, and it is controlled by the resolution capability of eyes.Because described ability is about 40 μm, therefore consider to have be less than 40 μm, be preferably less than 25 μm, be even more preferably less than or equal the particle of volume average size (D50) of 6 μm.But should guarantee to choose D50 and be greater than 0.3 μm, the preferred particle of 0.5 μm, in order to avoid opacity has excessive loss, its can be totally unfavorable to the effect expected.
Therefore, compositions of the present invention comprises at least white particles, and the mean refractive index of described white particles is 1.7-2.2, and its volume size (D50) is less than 40 μm, be preferably 0.3-25 μm, be more preferably 0.3-6 μm, or be even 0.5-3 μm.
These particles can be made up of a kind of material or be complex.Such as, the boron nitride that these particles can be 1.74 by mean refractive index is made.They are optional self-contained titanium dioxide and be selected from the compound particle of base material of aluminium oxide, silicon dioxide, barium sulfate, glass, Muscovitum and synthetic mica, poly-(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) particle, politef (PTFE) particle or their mixture also, and its mean refractive index is 1.7-2.2.
According to first embodiment, particle is boron nitride particles.
According to another embodiment, particle is the compound particle comprising titanium dioxide and aluminum oxide base material.
According to another embodiment, particle is the compound particle comprising titanium dioxide and Muscovitum base material.
Non-interfering type white scattering particles is advantageously boron nitride particles, and its volume average size is preferably 0.3-6 μm.
Mean refractive index is defined as the summation by the refractive index of the weight content weighting in particle.
As the example of compound particle, can mention and such as be coated with TiO
2(40%) Muscovitum (60%) small pieces, its mean refractive index is 1.9 (0.6 × 1.5+0.4 × 2.5); The inclusions of titanium oxide (40%) in aluminium oxide (60%) substrate, its mean refractive index is 1.96 (0.6 × 1.6+0.4 × 2.5).
Below the form of used refractive index:
| Muscovitum | 1.4-1.7 |
| Bismuth oxychloride (interfering, not in the present invention) | 2.15 |
| Fe 3O 4 | 2.4 |
| TiO 2(anatase) | 2.5 |
| TiO 2(rutile) | 2.7 |
| Boron nitride | 1.74 |
| Aluminium oxide (amorphous) | 1.6 |
table 1: the example of the refractive index of various material
Observe: the refractive index of bismuth oxychloride provides as instruction here.Certainly, described bismuth oxychloride is with its conventionally form and the particle do not corresponded to for object of the present invention, because it is the particle being conducive to reflecting.
As the example of particle, boron nitride particles can be mentioned, such as, from the PUHP1030L of Saint Gobain Ceramics and the UHP-1010 from Carborundum.
According to an especially preferred embodiment, use the boron nitride particles that volume average size D50 is less than 6 μm, the volume average size such as sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics with title PUHP1030L is the boron nitride particles of 3 μm.
Described non-interfering type white particles of the present invention, effectively to highlight and/or the amount of homogenize skin and/or lip, is in other words present in compositions with the content of at least 0.1 of total composition % by weight, especially at least 0.5 % by weight, preferably at least 1 % by weight.
Described non-interfering type white scattering particles of the present invention is present in cosmetic composition with the 0.1%-20%, preferably the active material total amount of 0.5%-10% that account for the gross weight of compositions.
In addition, also can additive color, no matter it is provided by dyestuff or pigment, color lake, nacre, angle heterochromatosis pigment etc.
But, when the refractive index of these compound particles or non-composite particles be more than or equal to, be especially strictly greater than 2.3 time, notably do not exceed 3%.This is because during higher than this concentration, highlighting effect may reduce or even disappear.In addition, a rear phenomenon is along with screening effect.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously not containing additional white particles (particle namely except non-interfering type white particles of the present invention), does not especially comprise titanium dioxide.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, compositions of the present invention can comprise the particle of the RI > 2.3 of the gross weight 0-3 % by weight relative to compositions, especially iron oxides.
hydrophobic aerogels:
Aerosil is the porous material obtained by replacing the liquid component in (by drying) silica gel with air.
They are usually by the sol-gel process synthesis in liquid medium, and then carry out drying, described drying is usually by carrying out with supercritical fluid extraction, and the most frequently used supercritical fluid is supercritical CO
2.Such drying can avoid the contraction of hole and material.Sol-gel process and various drying process are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, and New York, Academic Press, in 1990.
Hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle performance used in the present invention goes out 500-1500 m
2/ g, preferably 600-1200 m
2/ g, also preferred 600-800 m
2specific surface area (the S of the per unit mass of/g
m) and 1-1500 μm, also preferred 1-1000 μm, preferably 1-100 μm, especially 1-30 μm, more preferably 5-25 μm, also preferred 5-20 μm, even also preferred 5-15 μm size (being expressed as volume mean diameter (D [0.5])).
According to an embodiment, hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle used in the present invention has 1-30 μm, preferably 5-25 μm, the size (being expressed as volume mean diameter (D [0.5])) of also preferred 5-20 μm, even also preferred 5-15 μm.
The specific surface area of per unit mass can by being described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, 60th volume, 309th page, measure in 1938 2 months and corresponding to the nitrogen adsorption method (being called BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method) of international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D).BET specific surface area corresponds to total specific surface area of considered particle.
The size of silica aerogel particles can use the commercially available MasterSizer 2000 type particle size analyzer from Malvern by static light scattering.Based on Mie theory, data are processed.This theory is correct for isotropic particle, and it can determine the particle diameter of " effectively " when nonspherical particle.This theory is described in Van de Hulst particularly, and the publication " Light Scattering by Small Particles " of H.C., the 9th chapter and the 10th chapter, Wiley, New York, in 1957.
According to a favourable embodiment, hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle used in the present invention has 600-800 m
2specific surface area (the S of the per unit mass of/g
m) and the size (being expressed as volume mean diameter (D [0.5])) of 5-20 μm, even also preferred 5-15 μm.
Silica aerogel particles used in the present invention can advantageously have 0.02 g/cm
3-0.10 g/cm
3, preferred 0.03 g/cm
3-0.08 g/cm
3, especially 0.05 g/cm
3-0.08 g/cm
3tap density (tapped density) ρ.
In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to following scheme (being called tap density scheme):
40 g powder are poured in graduated cylinder; Then, graduated cylinder is placed on Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; Subsequently, graduated cylinder is made to stand a series of 2500 tapping action (repeating this operation, until the volume differences between twice follow-on test is less than 2%); Then, on graduated cylinder, directly measure the final volume Vf of the powder rapped.Tap density is measured by ratio m/Vf, is that (Vf is with cm for 40/Vf in this case
3represent, and m represents with g).
According to a preferred embodiment, hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle used in the present invention has 5-60 m
2/ cm
3, preferred 10-50 m
2/ cm
3, also preferred 15-40 m
2/ cm
3the specific surface area S of per unit volume
v.
The specific surface area of per unit volume is provided by following relational expression: S
v=S
m×
ρ, wherein, ρ is tap density, with g/cm
3represent, and S
mthe specific surface area of per unit mass as hereinbefore defined, with m
2/ g represents.
Preferably, the oil absorption that hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle of the present invention is measured when wet point is 5-18 ml/g, preferred 6-15 ml/g, also preferred 8-12 ml/g.
The absorbability (being expressed as Wp) measured when wet point is corresponding to needing to join in 100 g particles to obtain the amount of the oil of smooth paste.
Oil absorption is measured according to " wet point " method or according to the method for the oil absorption measuring powder described in standard NF T 30-022.It corresponds to the amount in the amount of the oil of the available Adsorption on Surface of powder and/or the oil absorbed by powder by measurement wet point, is described below:
The powder of the amount of m=2 g is placed on glass plate, then dropwise adds oil (isononyl isononanoate).4-5 oil dripping is being joined after in powder, is using spatula to mix, and continue to add oil, until form the aggregation of oil and powder.Now, add an oil dripping at every turn, then with spatula, mixture is ground.When obtaining solid and level and smooth paste, stop adding oil.This paste must can on a glass drawout and not broken or formed caking.Then the volume Vs (representing with ml) of oil used is write down.
Oil absorption corresponds to ratio Vs/m.
Aeroge used according to the invention is the aeroge of hydrophobic silica, preferred silylated silicon dioxide (INCI title: the silicyl compound of silicon dioxide).
Term " hydrophobic silica " refers to surface silylating agent (such as halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilane; Siloxanes, especially dimethyl siloxane, such as hexamethyl disiloxane; Or silazane) carry out processing to use any silicon dioxide that silicyl Si-Rn (such as trimethyl silyl) makes OH base functionalized.
About the preparation of the hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle of surface modification by silylanizing, can list of references US 7 470 725.
The hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle of preferred use trimethyl silyl surface modification.
As the hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel that can use in the present invention, the example that can mention is the aeroge sold with title VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI title: the silicyl compound of silicon dioxide) by Dow Corning company, and the average-size of the particle of described aeroge is about 1000 microns and the specific surface area of its per unit mass is 600-800 m
2/ g.
Also can mention the aeroge sold with model Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200 by Cabot company.
The aeroge that preferred use is sold with title VM-2270 (INCI title: the silicyl compound of silicon dioxide) by Dow Corning company, the average-size of the particle of described aeroge is 5-15 micron and the specific surface area of its per unit mass is 600-800 m
2/ g.
Particularly, hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle accounts for 0.1 % by weight to 20 % by weight relative to the gross weight of compositions, and preferably 0.5 % by weight to 10 % by weight, also preferably 1 % by weight to 10 % by weight, more preferably 1.5 % by weight to 5 % by weight.
Compositions used according to the invention especially can form cosmetic composition.For this type of application, they contain physiologically acceptable medium.Term " physiologically acceptable medium " here refers to and skin and the compatible medium of optional lip, scalp, eyelashes, eyes and/or hair.This physiologically acceptable medium more specifically can be made up of physiologically acceptable organic solvent and optional water.Organic solvent can be selected from the lower alcohol such as containing 1-4 carbon atom, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, propanol or butanols; Polyethylene Glycol containing 6-80 ethylene oxide unit; And polyhydric alcohol, such as propylene glycol, isoprene, butanediol, glycerol and sorbitol.The pH of the physiologically acceptable medium of compositions of the present invention and skin-compatible, and be preferably 3-8, be also preferably 5-7.
Of the present invention one favourable in, described compositions takes the form of O/w emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion, triple emulsion or gel.Also cosmetic galenical form (bulky powder, compacted powder, rod etc.) is imagined.
According to a specific embodiment, emulsion is O/w emulsion.
Compositions of the present invention comprises at least one oil phase comprising at least one oil.
This oil phase can such as relative to compositions gross weight 10 % by weight to 95 % by weight, preferably 10 % by weight to 80 % by weight, also preferably 15 % by weight to 70 % by weight, even also preferably the amount of 20 % by weight to 60 % by weight exists.
This oil phase contains at least one oil, particularly a kind of cosmetics oil, and it can contain several oil and optional other fatty materials one or more of.
As the oil that can use in the present invention, mineral oil (Albolene), vegetable oil, animal oil (perhydro Squalene), artificial oil, non-volatile or volatile silicone oils (Cyclomethicone, such as cyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane) and cyclohexasiloxane (cyclohexasiloxane)) and fluorocarbon oil (PFPE) can be mentioned.As fatty material, fatty alcohol, fatty acid and wax can also be used.The oil phase of emulsion also can contain glue, such as silicone rubber, resin and wax.
By known methods, compositions of the present invention also can containing adjuvant conventional in cosmetics or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agent, antiseptic, antioxidant, solvent, aromatic, filler, screening agent, antibacterial, odour absorbents, coloring agent and salt.
According to a specific embodiment, compositions of the present invention can comprise following material as cosmetic adjuvant: nacre, pigment, dyestuff, bioactivator (defying age, oily skin, whitening, antiperspirant, antioxidant etc.), sunscreen, film forming polymer, scattering and/or the filler highlighted, oil and fatty material, wetting agent and softening agent.
The amount of these different adjuvants is conventional those amounts used in considered field, 0.01% to 20% of the gross weight of such as compositions, 0.01% to 10% of the gross weight of preferred composition.According to their character, these adjuvants can be introduced fat mutually in, introduce in aqueous phase and/or introduce in lipid globule.
As activating agent, described compositions can containing the activating agent used conventional in cosmetics industry, such as be selected from decorticating agent, wetting agent, depigmenting agent, short coloring agent, anti-gfycation agent, NO synthase inhibitor, 5α-reductase inhibitor, lysyl and/or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, for stimulating the synthesis of corium or epidermal macromolecules and/or stoping their medicament of degraded, for stimulating the medicament of fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or Keratinocyte differentiation, muscle relaxant, antimicrobial, tonicity agents, anti-fouling agent or free radical scavenger, antiinflammatory, act on microcirculatory medicament and act on the medicament of energy metabolism of cell, lipolytic activity agent or there is the activating agent of direct or indirect favorable activity to reducing fatty tissue, and do not belong to the skin-whitening agents of optical brightener family.
The whitening agent can included in compositions of the present invention comprises such as following compound: kojic acid; Ellagic acid; Arbutin and derivant thereof, be such as described in application EP-895 779 and EP-524 109 in those; Hydroquinone; Aminophenol derivates with fungicidal property, be such as described in application WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077 in those, especially N-cholesteryl oxygen base carbonyl-para-aminophenol and N-ethoxy carbonyl-para-aminophenol; Imino group phenol derivatives, be especially described in application WO 99/22707 in those; L-2-oxothiazolidin-4-formic acid or procysteine, and its salt and ester; D-acyl sulfhydryl ethylamine sulfonic acid calcium, ascorbic acid and derivant, especially ascorbic acid glucoside, and plant extract, especially Radix Glycyrrhizae, blackberry, Radix Scutellariae and Herba Bacopae monnieri (
bacopa monnieri) extract, this list is not restricted.
According to one embodiment of the invention; the compositions used also can comprise the organic bright protective agent of at least one and/or at least one mineral light protectant; it has activity (absorbent) within the scope of UVA and/or UVB; it can be water solublity or fat-soluble, otherwise is insoluble in conventional cosmetic solvents.These bright protective agents are different from optical brightener.
Bright protective agent usually with relative to compositions gross weight 0.1 % by weight to 20 % by weight, be preferably present in compositions of the present invention relative to the ratio of the gross weight 0.2 % by weight to 15 % by weight of compositions.
Compositions used according to the invention is more or less fluid, and can have the outward appearance of white or coloured cream, ointment, balsam, emulsion, serosity, paste or foam.They optionally can be administered to skin in the form of an aerosol.They also can take the form of solid, such as, take the form of the rod being particularly suited for being administered to lip.
Therefore, the invention still further relates to for highlighting and/or homogenize skin and/or lip, the especially cosmetic method of the shade of skin of face and/or around eyes, described cosmetic method comprises compositions of the present invention is as hereinbefore defined locally applied to skin.This cosmetic method is more specifically intended for use skin and/or lip, and especially namely the wink of skin highlights and/or homogenize.
Compositions of the present invention can former state or as nursing and/or cosmetic bottoming agent use, before care product or cosmetic product, be administered to skin.
The invention still further relates to the method for cosmetic for skin and/or lip and/or non-therapeutic nursing, described method comprises the step that cosmetic composition of the present invention is as hereinbefore defined administered to skin by least one.
Another aspect of the present invention relates to the hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle and non-interfering type white scattering particles as hereinbefore defined that combinationally use as hereinbefore defined, as for highlighting and/or homogenize skin and/or lip, the especially colour of skin and/or the medicament for weakening skin defect.
The following examples are for the present invention will be described, but they do not have restricted.Determine as the case may be, compound is mentioned as chemical name or CTFA (international cosmetic ingredient dictionary and handbook) title.
Amount is expressed as the percentage by weight of the gross weight relative to compositions.Unless otherwise mentioned, amount not as the amount of active material, but provides as the thick amount be incorporated in compositions.
embodiment
embodiment 1: the confirmation of the highlighting of the preparation of the combination containing hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle and boron nitride particles, homogenize and dyschromasia rectification effect
measurement scheme
The measurement of → homogenize power (H)
Formulation spreads scheme is, on the comparison diagram of standard, generation 50 μm sprawls.Measure and carry out in white background.
Color measuring uses colorimeter to carry out.It is Konica Minolta CR-400 colorimeter.Colorimeter provides the numeric data representing absolute value and reference sample and treat the aberration between control sample.The value that the naked figure not having film obtains is with for referencial use.
Operating condition is as follows:
Standard C IE 1,964 10 ° of observers
CIE light source D65
Measurement geometry d/0, variable d/8.Described instrument has the Optical devices producing diffused light, and be placed on and be coated with in the spherical hollow space of white layer, described white layer produces repeatedly luminous reflectance.Anti-dazzle ligh trap eliminates the glare effect on the surface of sample.
First, " white board " of carrying out instrument corrects.
Then, from the measured value of naked seed race figure
l*,
a*,
b*calculate average △ E
0.This is the aberration between the region of little surface area and corresponding large regions.Such as, on African-American figure (contrast Figure 32 hereinafter described), calculate the meansigma methods of the aberration between B11 and B11+, B12 and B11+ etc.:
Average △ E
0=
Wherein,
,
n = 1, 2, …, n
Then, the transparency sprawling (being called film) by having is placed on ethnic figure.Carry out identical measurement, and obtain average △ E.
Finally, determine H according to following formula, it is corresponding to the homogenize power of the preparation spread on transparency:
H=average △ E
0/ average △ E
Particularly, these measure contrast Figure 32 on carry out, described contrast Figure 32 as application EP 1 433 461 in define and as described in application Fig. 4 shown in.
Contrast Figure 32 comprises colored region B11, B12, B12+ and XXX of foursquare colored region B11+ and four rectangle.
The ink that regional B11, B11+, B12, B12+ and XXX select preferably by printing is made, and is rendered as identical color, to make these regions as described in European patent application EP 1 212 961 under at least two different light sources for observer.
Contrast Figure 32 can represent that brightness is the skin of 30-40.
Therefore, regional B11+, B11, B12, B12+ and XXX can correspond to the average color of the zones of different of one group of individual viewed face to the dark skin with the dark colour of skin.Region B11+ can correspond to the meansigma methods of the color measured on forehead in the V1 of region, averages with the color measured on cheekbone in the V2 of region.
Region B11 can correspond to the color measured on cheekbone in the V2 of region, region B12 corresponds to the color measured on forehead in the V1 of region, and region B12+ corresponds to the average color between color, the color measured in the middle shade of region V4 and the color measured around lip in the V5 of region in the V3 of region, outgoing measured.The color of shade in region XXX can correspond to and measure in the V6 of region.
For each region, the feature of contrast Figure 32 is following value:
| Region | B11+ | XXX | B12+ | B12 | B11 |
| L* | 36.7 | 29.63 | 32.98 | 35.66 | 38.43 |
| C* | 19.81 | 15.06 | 17.29 | 19.78 | 21.76 |
| h | 47.34° | 40.34° | 44.64° | 46.32° | 46.51° |
Wherein, in CIE 1976 chrominance space, L* is brightness, and C* is saturation, and h is tone.
→ highlight the measurement of power (E)
Measure the E corresponding to the power that highlights of the preparation spread on transparency.The measurement of the △ E between the region B11+ of the figure before this is process and after process.
E=△ E
after before B11+
The measurement of → covering power (CR)
Use and sprawl identical sprawling with for what measure homogenize power.By the gage outfit of spectrocolorimeter being applied directly on the film of 50 μm, each background in two backgrounds of comparison diagram being carried out three spectral reflectances and measuring.The value obtained is: X, Y and Z.
Calculate contrast in the following manner: the arithmetic mean of instantaneous value producing three Y values on a dark background, divided by the meansigma methods of the Y value of three in white background, then be multiplied by 100.
The measurement of → mist degree and transparency
The Haze-gard from Byk Gardner company is used to measure.This instrument is by objective measurement characterization of visual:
Absorbance TH
Mist degree (mist degree → soft focus character)
The composition film of 25 μm is applied on polyethylene (PE) film of 50 μm.Then, film is measured after at room temperature dry 1 hour.Then, film is placed in instrument, and carries out the measurement of transparency and mist degree.
preparation
The carrier studied is direct emulsion.Various combination introduced in this basis (embodiment 1), the optical characterisation then for preparation is measured.Result provides in the following table:
result
Result provides in the following table:
Should note, the combination of aerosil and boron nitride particles can obtain high transparency (TH), mist degree, highlight power (E) and homogenize power (H) level, makes covering power (CR) remain on value lower than 50 simultaneously.
embodiment 2: preparation
o/w emulsion
step
1, at 75 DEG C, the fatty material of heating agent is added, until complete homogenize.
2, concurrently, heating aqueous phase, until dissolve completely.
3, by pouring fat in aqueous phase emulsifying mutually at 65 DEG C.
4, be cooled to 50 DEG C, and add oil phase, until obtain level and smooth outward appearance.
5, at about 40-45 DEG C, acrylate copolymer is introduced.
6, aerosil is introduced, until obtain level and smooth outward appearance.
7, last, add triethanolamine, until obtain level and smooth outward appearance.
When being administered to skin of face, said composition provide have the transparency highlight effect.
o/w emulsion
Carry out the following examples:
When testing on 12 kinds of skin models in India, said composition provide have the transparency highlight effect.
Should be understood that in the context of the present invention, the percentage by weight provided for compound or chemical families is expressed as the weight of the solid of discussed compound all the time.
In entire chapter application, unless otherwise stated, statement " comprising one " or " comprising one " is interpreted as referring to " comprising at least one " or " comprising at least one ".
Claims (16)
1. a cosmetic composition, its comprise in physiologically acceptable medium at least one oil, at least hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle and at least 0.1 % by weight feature be 0.3 μm <D50<40 μm and the non-interfering type white scattering particles of 1.7<RI<2.2.
2. cosmetic composition according to claim 1, is characterized in that, described hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle performance goes out 500-1500 m
2/ g, preferably 600-1200 m
2/ g, also preferred 600-800 m
2specific surface area (the S of the per unit mass of/g
m) and 1-1500 μm, preferably 1-1000 μm, even more preferably 1-100 μm, especially 1-30 μm, more preferably 5-25 μm, also preferred 5-20 μm, even also preferred 5-15 μm the size being expressed as volume mean diameter (D [0.5]).
3. the compositions according to arbitrary aforementioned claim, is characterized in that, the oil absorption that described hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle is measured when wet point is 5-18 ml/g particle, preferred 6-15 ml/g particle, also preferred 8-12 ml/g particle.
4. the compositions according to arbitrary aforementioned claim, is characterized in that, the tap density of described hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle is 0.02 g/cm
3-0.10 g/cm
3, preferably 0.03 g/cm
3-0.08 g/cm
3, especially 0.05 g/cm
3-0.08 g/cm
3.
5. the compositions according to arbitrary aforementioned claim, it is characterized in that, described hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle is the hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle by trimethyl silyl surface modification, preferably has the silicyl compound of INCI title silicon dioxide.
6. the compositions according to arbitrary aforementioned claim, it is characterized in that, described hydrophobic aerogels particle accounts for 0.1 % by weight to 20 % by weight relative to the gross weight of described compositions, and preferably 0.5 % by weight to 10 % by weight, also preferably 1 % by weight to 10 % by weight, more preferably 1.5 % by weight to 5 % by weight.
7. the compositions according to any one of claim 1 to 6, it is characterized in that, described non-interfering type white scattering particles is selected from boron nitride particles, comprise titanium dioxide and be selected from the compound particle of base material of aluminium oxide, silicon dioxide, barium sulfate, glass, Muscovitum and synthetic mica, poly-(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) particle, politef (PTFE) particle or their mixture, and its mean refractive index is 1.7-2.2.
8. the compositions according to last claim, is characterized in that, described non-interfering type white scattering particles is made up of boron nitride.
9. the compositions according to arbitrary aforementioned claim, it is characterized in that, described non-interfering type white scattering particles of the present invention is present in described cosmetic composition with the 0.1%-20%, preferably the active material total amount of 0.5%-10% that account for the gross weight of described compositions.
10. the compositions according to arbitrary aforementioned claim, is characterized in that, it is nursing and/or cosmetic bottoming agent, uses separately or uses under nursing and/or cosmetic product.
11. compositionss according to any one of claim 1 to 10, it is characterized in that, it takes the form of O/w emulsion.
12. compositionss according to arbitrary claim, it is characterized in that, it comprises the particle of the RI > 2.3 of the gross weight 0-3 % by weight relative to described compositions, especially iron oxides.
13. compositionss according to arbitrary aforementioned claim; it is characterized in that, it is also selected from following cosmetic composition containing at least one: decorticating agent, wetting agent, depigmenting agent, anti-gfycation agent, for stimulate the medicament of fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or Keratinocyte differentiation, tension agent, anti-fouling agent or free radical scavenger, act on microcirculatory medicament and act on cell energy metabolism medicament, within the scope of UVA and/or UVB the activated organic bright protective agent of tool and mineral light protectant and skin-whitening agents.
14. 1 kinds for highlighting and/or the cosmetic method of homogenize skin and/or lip, especially skin, described cosmetic method comprises the compositions of definition in any one of claim 1 to 13 is locally applied to skin.
15. cosmetic methods according to claim 14, is characterized in that, namely the wink that it is intended for use skin and/or lip, especially skin highlights and/or homogenize.
16. 1 kinds at least hydrophobic silicon dioxide aerogel particle with at least 0.1 % by weight feature be 0.3 μm <D50<40 μm and the purposes be combined in for weakening in the cosmetic composition of skin defect of the non-interfering type white scattering particles of 1.7<RI<2.2.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR1255891 | 2012-06-21 | ||
| FR1255891A FR2992197B1 (en) | 2012-06-21 | 2012-06-21 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING NON-INTERFERENTIAL DIFFUSING PARTICLES AND AEROGEL PARTICLES, AND COSMETIC LIGHTENING METHOD |
| PCT/EP2013/063046 WO2013190114A1 (en) | 2012-06-21 | 2013-06-21 | Cosmetic composition comprising non-interference scattering particles and aerogel particles, and cosmetic lightening method |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN104379114A true CN104379114A (en) | 2015-02-25 |
| CN104379114B CN104379114B (en) | 2018-01-02 |
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| CN201380031917.1A Active CN104379114B (en) | 2012-06-21 | 2013-06-21 | Method is highlighted comprising non-interfering type scattering particles and the cosmetic composition of aerogel particles and cosmetic |
Country Status (4)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN104379114B (en) |
| BR (1) | BR112014027027B8 (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2992197B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2013190114A1 (en) |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN105451815A (en) * | 2013-08-22 | 2016-03-30 | 默克专利有限公司 | Diffusion pigments in phototherapy |
| FR3035587B1 (en) * | 2015-04-28 | 2017-05-26 | Oreal | COSMETIC COPOSITION BASED ON CUCURBIC ACID OR DERIVATIVE |
| CN108348416B (en) | 2015-10-27 | 2021-12-14 | 联合利华知识产权控股有限公司 | Skin care compositions comprising turbostratic boron nitride |
| FR3067931B1 (en) * | 2017-06-26 | 2020-08-28 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN POWDER BASED ON OIL-IN-WATER DISPERSION COATED WITH HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AIROGEL PARTICLES |
| CN113856242A (en) * | 2021-09-22 | 2021-12-31 | 深圳大学 | Janus cotton and preparation method and application thereof |
Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE19939836A1 (en) * | 1999-08-21 | 2001-02-22 | Beiersdorf Ag | Hydrous cosmetic or pharmaceutical pens |
Family Cites Families (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2679140B1 (en) | 1991-07-19 | 1993-10-15 | Oreal | DEPIGMENTING COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING ARBUTOSIDE DERIVATIVES. |
| DE19648798C2 (en) | 1996-11-26 | 1998-11-19 | Hoechst Ag | Process for the production of organically modified aerogels by surface modification of the aqueous gel (without prior solvent exchange) and subsequent drying |
| FR2765801B1 (en) | 1997-07-08 | 2003-04-11 | Oreal | USE OF ARBUTINE MONOESTERS AS DEPIGMENTING AGENTS |
| FR2767823B1 (en) | 1997-08-27 | 1999-10-15 | Oreal | COMPOUNDS DERIVED FROM AMINOPHENOL AND THEIR USE IN COSMETICS |
| FR2770522B1 (en) | 1997-11-04 | 2000-03-10 | Oreal | COMPOUNDS COMPRISING AN IMINOPHENOL FRAGMENT AND THEIR USE IN COSMETICS |
| FR2772607B1 (en) | 1997-12-19 | 2000-02-04 | Oreal | USE OF AMINO PHENOL AMIDE DERIVATIVES AS DEPIGMENTING AGENTS |
| FR2778561B1 (en) | 1998-05-14 | 2001-04-20 | Oreal | OPTICAL WHITENERS AS WHITENING AGENTS |
| US6313181B1 (en) | 1999-05-26 | 2001-11-06 | Color Access, Inc. | Cosmetic compositions containing optical brighteners |
| FR2817745B1 (en) | 2000-12-08 | 2003-03-28 | Oreal | MANUFACTURER AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE |
| FR2848826B1 (en) | 2002-12-24 | 2005-03-18 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND CONTRAST CARDS FOR CHARACTERIZING THEM |
-
2012
- 2012-06-21 FR FR1255891A patent/FR2992197B1/en active Active
-
2013
- 2013-06-21 CN CN201380031917.1A patent/CN104379114B/en active Active
- 2013-06-21 BR BR112014027027A patent/BR112014027027B8/en active IP Right Grant
- 2013-06-21 WO PCT/EP2013/063046 patent/WO2013190114A1/en active Application Filing
Patent Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE19939836A1 (en) * | 1999-08-21 | 2001-02-22 | Beiersdorf Ag | Hydrous cosmetic or pharmaceutical pens |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
| Title |
|---|
| ANNE-MARIE VINCENT ET.AL: "Dow Corning develops a series of five silicone elastomer cosmetic powder variants", 《IP.COM JOURNAL》, 27 March 2007 (2007-03-27) * |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| BR112014027027A2 (en) | 2017-06-27 |
| BR112014027027B1 (en) | 2019-09-03 |
| CN104379114B (en) | 2018-01-02 |
| BR112014027027B8 (en) | 2019-09-17 |
| WO2013190114A1 (en) | 2013-12-27 |
| FR2992197A1 (en) | 2013-12-27 |
| FR2992197B1 (en) | 2014-06-27 |
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