BR112014027027B1 - cosmetic composition, cosmetic method for lightening and use of a combination - Google Patents

Abstract

cosmetic composition, cosmetic method for lightening and use of a combination. The present invention therefore relates to a composition for topical application in a physiologically acceptable medium of at least one oil, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles and at least 0.1% by weight of characterized non-interfering white spreading particles. by 0.3 µm <d50 <40 µm and 1.7 <ri <2.2. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for whitening and / or homogenizing the skin and / or lips, comprising topically applying such a composition, and a makeup method comprising at least one step of applying such a composition. Cosmetic makeup.

Description

"COSMETIC COMPOSITION, COSMETIC METHOD FOR LIGHTENING AND USE OF A COMBINATION" [001] The present invention deals with a composition for topical application comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least non-interferential scattering particles and at least hydrophobic airgel particles .

[002] An object of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for whitening and / or homogenizing the skin and / or lips, which comprises the topical application of that composition on the skin or lips, in particular, the skin of the face. and dark circles around the eyes.

[003] It is common that people who have a skin that is colored or that have pigment spots, rosacea, or dark circles around the eyes want to correct these skin discromias and use, for this purpose, cosmetic or dermatological compositions that allow to lighten and homogenize the complexion (complexion). To that end, it is known practice to use cosmetic compositions that comprise bleaches.

[004] The substances most commonly used as a bleaching agent are hydroquinone and its derivatives, cojic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid, arbutin and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl glycoside), alone or in combination with other active agents.

[005] However, it is necessary to use these agents for extended periods of time and in large quantities in order to obtain a whitening (lightening) effect on the skin. Furthermore, an immediate effect is not seen after applying the compositions that comprise them.

[006] It is known practice to use products that contain interferential pigments that, although they can hide skin imperfections, have the great disadvantage of giving the skin a shiny appearance

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2/24 and not very natural. In addition, these pigments have the particularity of giving a peragenous and strongly colored appearance to the products that contain them.

[007] It is also known practice to use cosmetic compositions capable of making the complexion uniform and, optionally, of giving an immediate white appearance, which compositions are composed of powders dispersed in a binder. Powders are generally white or colored pigments depending on the desired effect and / or fillers of different shapes (lamellar, spherical) depending on the desired effect. The complexion (complexion) becomes uniform essentially due to the covering power provided by pigments and fillers. The drawback of such compositions is that the smoothing of skin defects is conferred by the covering power of the compositions. Skin made up in this way loses its natural appearance due to the lack of transparency of these compositions.

[008] Finally, it is also known practice to use for the purposes of whitening and immediate homogenization of the skin, cosmetic compositions containing fluorescent compounds; optical brighteners, such as stilbene derivatives, coumarin derivatives, oxazole and benzoxazole derivatives and imidazole derivatives, described in EP-A-0 962 224 or WO-00/71085, can be remembered in particular.

[009] However, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions for topical application that allow an immediate lightening effect to be obtained, in particular, on the skin, or more generally, a correction of dyschromias, in particular, a camouflage effect that does not imply much cover and is not too colorful and does not give the skin a shiny, opaque or artificial appearance. In addition, they are versatile and immediately suitable for various skin types since it is not necessary for the formula to have the exact same shade as the

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3/24 complexion (complexion) of individuals.

[010] Surprisingly, it was found that such an objective could be achieved by introducing, in a cosmetic composition containing at least one oil, the combination of hydrophobic silica airgel particles and white non-interference scattering particles characterized by 0.3 pm < D50 <40 pm and 1.7 <RI <2.2, in particular boron nitride particles.

[011] An object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition that brightens and homogenizes the skin or lips, in particular the complexion, and which is characterized by great comfort in application. These compositions contain, in a physiologically acceptable medium containing oil, an effective amount of an airgel (preferably hydrophobic silica) and boron nitride particles.

[012] The compositions according to the present invention can be in the form of a gel, a serum, direct, inverse and multiple emulsions, hot-poured rods, or loose or compact powders.

[013] An object of the present invention is, therefore, a cosmetic composition that is, in particular, suitable for topical application on the skin and / or lips, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oil, at least 0.1% by weight of particular non-interference scattering particles in relation to the total weight of said composition, and at least hydrophobic airgel particles.

[014] The compositions according to the present invention make it possible to immediately give the skin on which they are applied, and in particular, the complexion, improved qualities in terms of uniformity, homogeneity, transparency and whiteness. Such compositions can also have camouflage properties. These compositions can also lighten the lips.

[015] An object of the present invention is thus also an

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4/24 cosmetic method designed to whiten and / or immediately homogenize the skin and / or lips, in particular, the skin.

[016] An object of the present invention is thus also a use of a combination of at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles and at least 0.1% by weight of white non-interfering scattering particles characterized by 0.3 pm <D50 <40 pm and 1.7 <RI <2.2 in a cosmetic composition to smooth skin defects.

[017] The compositions according to the present invention may also make it possible to reduce the perception of skin defects on the skin surface, and in particular, to disguise wrinkles and pores and / or camouflage colored skin defects, that is, stains or red spots.

[018] In addition, the combination of hydrophobic airgel particles and non-interfering scattering particles allows compositions that are comfortable and smooth in application, and that have matifying and soft focus properties.

White Non-Interferential Scattering Particles [019] The scattering particles suit designates particles that have a scattering of light that does not show a preferred direction. Consequently, particles that have an optical interference effect, known as “interferential” particles are particularly excluded. Likewise, particles that have a shiny effect, such as metallic particles or particles with a metallic effect, such as bismuth oxychloride, are excluded.

[020] The term “white” means particles that have white color and its derivatives (off-white, alabaster white, and the like), as opposed to primary colors and derivatives.

[021] In particular, white particles have a luminance value L * close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.

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5/24 [022] The white scattering particles according to the present invention have an average refractive index between 1.7 and 2.2. This is due to the fact that if the particle has a refractive index above 2.2, the opacity of the composition is very high and, if the index is below 1.7, the whitening effect is not sufficient.

[023] The white particles according to the present invention have a continuous effect, which is controlled by the resolution capacity of the eye. Since said capacity is around 40 pm, particles having an average volumetric size (D50) of less than 40 pm, preferably less than 25 pm and more preferably still less than or equal to 6 pm are therefore considered. However, it is ensured that particles for which D50 is greater than 0.3 pm and preferably 0.5 pm are chosen, so as not to have an excessive loss of opacity, which would be extremely detrimental to the desired effect .

[024] Thus, the composition of the present invention comprises at least white particles that have an average refractive index between 1.7 and 2.2 and a volume size (D50) of less than 40 pm, preferably between 0.3 and 25 pm and most preferably between 0.3 and 6 pm, and even between 0.5 and 3 pm.

[025] These particles can be made of a material or even be composite. For example, these particles can be boron nitride with an average refractive index of 1.74. They can also be chosen from composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate chosen from particles of alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, synthetic mica, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), polytetrafluoroethylene ( PTFE) or mixtures thereof, whose average refractive index is between 1.7 and 2.2.

[026] According to a first embodiment, the particles are boron nitride particles.

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6/24 [027] According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and an alumina substrate.

[028] According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a mica substrate.

[029] White, non-interfering scattering particles are advantageously boron nitride particles, preferably having an average volumetric size of 0.3 to 6 pm.

[030] The average refractive index is defined as the sum of the heavy refractive indices by the weight content in the particle.

[031] Examples of composite particles include, for example, mica platelets (60%) covered with TiO2 (40%), with an average refractive index of 1.9 (0.6x1.5 + 0 , 4x2.5); inclusions of titanium oxide (40%) in an alumina matrix (60%), with an average refractive index of 1.96 (0.6x1.6 + 0.4x2.5).

[032] The following table indicates the refractive indices used:

Mica 1.4-1.7 Oxychloride (interference, outside the invention) bismuth gift 2.15 Fe3O4 2.4 TiO2 (anatase) 2.5 TiO2 (rutile) 2.7 Boron nitride 1.74 Alumina (amorphous) 1.6

Table 1

Example of Refractive Indices for Various Substances [033] Note: The reflection index of bismuth oxychloride is given here for guidance. Evidently, said bismuth oxychloride, in its conventional form, does not correspond to a particle within the meaning of the present invention, as it is a particle with reflection

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7/24 preferred.

[034] As an example of particles, boron nitride particles such as PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum can be mentioned.

[035] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, boron nitride particles having an average volumetric size D50 of less than 6 pm are used, such as boron nitride particles sold under the name PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, that have an average volumetric size of 3 pm.

[036] Said non-interferential white particles according to the present invention are present in the composition in an amount effective for the whitening and / or homogenization of the skin and / or lips, in other words, in a content of at least 0 , 1% by weight of the total composition, in particular at least 0.5% by weight and preferably at least 1% by weight.

[037] Said non-interfering white scattering particles according to the present invention are present in the cosmetic composition in a total amount of active matter ranging from 0.1% to 20% in relation to the total weight of the composition and, preferably , from 0.5% to 10%.

[038] In addition, it is possible to add color, whether it is given by dyes, or even pigments, lacquers, mother-of-pearls, goniochromatic pigments, etc.

[039] However, when those composite or non-composite particles that have a refractive index greater than or equal to, in particular, strictly greater than 2.3, care must be taken not to exceed 3%. This is because, above this concentration, the lightening effect can be reduced or even extinguished. In addition, the latter is

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8/24 accompanied by a mask effect.

[040] A cosmetic composition according to the present invention advantageously does not contain additional white particle or particles (i.e., particle or particles other than the non-interfering white particles according to the present invention), and in particular, does not comprise titanium dioxide .

[041] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, a composition according to the present invention can comprise from 0 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of particles of RI> 2.3, in particular, of iron oxides.

Hydrophobic Aerogels [042] Hydrophobic silica aerogels are porous substances obtained (by drying the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[043] They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, and the most commonly used is supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinking the pores and the substance. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[044] The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² / g and more preferably 600 to 800 m ² / g, and a size expressed as the average volumetric diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, more preferably from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, most preferably from 5 to 20 pm and more particularly from 5 to 15 pm.

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9/24 [045] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size, expressed as an average diameter in volume (D [0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, more preferably from 5 to 20 pm and more particularly from 5 to 15 pm.

[046] The specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET method (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller), described in Journal of American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The specific surface area BET corresponds to the total specific surface area of the considered particles.

[047] Silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial Malvern MasterSizer 2000 type particle size analyzer. The data are processed based on Mie's scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an effective particle diameter. This theory is described, in particular, in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[048] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g and a size, expressed as the average volumetric diameter (D [0,5]), which varies from 5 to 20 pm and more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.

[049] The silica airgel particles used in the present invention can advantageously have a compacted density (ρ) that varies

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10/24 from 0.02 g / cm ³ to 0.10 g / cm ³ and preferably from 0.03 g / cm ³ to 0.08 g / cm ³ , and in particular from 0.05 g / cm ³ cm ³ to 0.08 g / cm ³ .

[050] In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the compacted density protocol:

- 40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; and the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Staf 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 compaction actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); and then the final volume Vf of the compacted powder is measured directly in the measuring cylinder. The compacted density is determined by the m / Vf ratio, in the case in question 40 / Vf (where Vf is expressed in cm ³ in g).

[051] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m ² / cm ³ , preferably 10 at 50 m ² / cm ³ and more preferably from 15 to 40 m ² / cm ³ .

[052] The specific surface per unit volume is given by the ratio: Sv = Sm xp, where p is the compacted density, expressed in g / cm ³ , and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass, expressed in m ² / g, as defined above.

[053] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles according to the present invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at the wet point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and more preferably from 8 to 12 ml / g.

[054] The absorption capacity measured at the wet spot, called Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be

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11/24 added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

[055] It is measured according to the wet spot method or the method of determining the oil absorption of a powder described in NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet spot, described below:

- An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, the mixing is carried out by means of a spatula, and the oil is added until oil and powder clusters are formed. At that point, the oil is added at a rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently ground using a spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be capable of being spread on a glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The Vs volume (expressed ml) of used oil is then noted.

[056] The oil absorption corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.

[057] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silylate silica).

[058] The term hydrophobic silica means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes, such as alkyl chlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazans, in order to functionalize OH groups with groups Si-Rn silyl, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[059] Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface by silylation, US 7 470 725 can be cited.

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12/24 [060] Particularly, silica airgel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[061] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the present invention, for example, the airgel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

[062] Aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Airgel TLD 201, Airgel OGD 201 and Airgel TLD 203, Enova® Airgel MT and Enova Airgel MT200 can also be mentioned.

[063] The airgel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning will preferably be used, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

[064] In particular, hydrophobic silica airgel particles represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[065] The compositions used in accordance with the present invention can, in particular, constitute cosmetic compositions. They contain, for such application, a physiologically acceptable medium. The term physiologically acceptable means here means a medium that is compatible with the skin, and optionally the lips, the scalp, the lashes, the eyes and / or the hair. Such a physiologically acceptable medium may more particularly consist of a physiologically acceptable organic solvent and optionally water. The organic solvent can be chosen, for example, from the lower alcohols containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; polyethylene glycols containing from 6 to

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13/24 ethylene oxide units; and polyols, for example propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol. The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the present invention has a pH that is compatible with the skin, and preferably ranges from 3 to 8 and more preferably from 5 to 7.

[066] In an advantageous aspect of the present invention, the compositions are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a triple emulsion, or even a gel. Galenic forms of makeup (loose powders, compact powders, sticks, etc.) are also considered.

[067] According to a particular embodiment, the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[068] The compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one oily phase comprising at least one oil.

[069] This oily phase may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 70% by weight and more particularly still 20% to 60% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[070] This oily phase contains at least one oil, in particular, a cosmetic oil, and may contain several oils and, optionally, another or other fatty substances.

[071] As oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of mineral oils (liquid petroleum jelly), vegetable oils, animal oils (perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils, non-volatile or volatile silicone oils (cyclomethicone such as such as cyclopentassiloxane and cyclohexassiloxane) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). As fatty substances, fatty alcohols,

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14/24 greases and waxes.

[072] The oil phase of the emulsion may also contain gums, such as silicone gums, resins and waxes.

[073] In a known manner, the compositions of the present invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetic or dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filtering agents, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyes and salts.

[074] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can comprise, as cosmetic adjuvants, mother-of-pearls, pigments, dyes, biological active agents (anti-aging, oily skin, brighteners, antiperspirants, antioxidants, etc.), sunscreens, film-forming polymers, spreading and / or bleaching loads, oils and greasy substances, moisturizers and emollients.

[075] The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition and, preferably, from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants can be introduced in the grease phase, in the aqueous phase and / or in lipid beads.

[076] As active agents, the composition can contain the active agents conventionally used in the cosmetic industry, and for example chosen among the peeling agents, the moisturizing agents, the depigmenting agents, the pro-pigmenting agents, the anti-glycation agents, the inhibitors of NO synthase, 5a-reductase inhibitors, lysyl and / or prolyl hydrolysase inhibitors, agents to stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation,

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15/24 agents to stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle relaxants, antimicrobial agents, tensioning agents, anti-pollution agents or free radical scavengers, anti-inflammatory agents, agents that they act on the microcirculation, and the agents that act on the energy metabolism of the cells, the lipolytic active agents or the active agents that have a favorable direct or indirect activity in the reduction of the adipose tissue, and the whitening agents of the skin that do not belong to the family of optical brighteners.

[077] Bleaching agents capable of being incorporated into the composition according to the present invention comprise, for example, the following compounds: cojic acid; ellagic acid; arbutin and its derivatives, such as those described in EP-895 779 and EP-524 109; hydroquinone; aminophenol derivatives, such as those described in WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, and in particular, N cholesteryloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol; the iminophenol derivatives, in particular, those described in WO 99/22707; L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine, and also their salts and esters; calcium D-sulphonate, pantorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl glycoside, and plant extracts, in particular liquorice, blackberry, skullcap and Bacopa monnieri, without this list being limiting.

[078] In accordance with an embodiment of the present invention, the compositions used may also comprise at least one organic photoprotective agent and / or at least one inorganic photoprotect agent that is active in the range of UVA and / or UVB (absorbers), which can be water-soluble or fat-soluble, or even insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents These photoprotective agents are different

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16/24 of optical brighteners.

[079] Photoprotective agents are generally present in the compositions according to the present invention in proportions ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[080] The compositions used in accordance with the present invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a balm, a milk, a serum, a paste or a mousse. They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick, particularly suitable for application on the lips.

[081] Thus, the present invention also deals with a cosmetic method for whitening and / or homogenizing the skin and / or lips, in particular, the skin of the face and / or the dark circles around the eyes, which comprises the topical application to the skin of a composition according to the present invention as defined above. This cosmetic method will be used more particularly for immediate lightening and / or homogenization of the skin and / or lips, in particular, the skin.

[082] The composition of the present invention can also be used as such or as a care and / or makeup base, applied to the skin before a care product or a makeup product.

[083] The present invention also deals with a method for the make-up and / or non-therapeutic care of the skin and / or lips, which comprises at least one step of applying a cosmetic composition on the skin according to the present invention. as defined above.

[084] Another aspect of the present invention concerns the combined use of hydrophobic silica airgel particles as defined

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17/24 above and white non-interferential scattering particles as defined above, as an agent for the whitening and / or homogenization of the skin and / or lips, in particular the complexion, and / or to smooth out the defects of the skin.

[085] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, having a limiting character. The compounds are, as the case may be, referred to as chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).

[086] Quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are not indicated as an amount of active matter, but as a gross quantity introduced into the composition.

Examples

Example 1: Demonstration of Whitening, Homogenization and Dyschromia Correction Effects of Formulas Containing a Combination of Hydrophobic Silica Airgel Particles and Boron Nitride Particles

Measurement Protocol

Measurement of homogenization power (H) [087] The spreading protocol of the formula consists of producing 50 pm spreadings on a standard contrast chart. Measurements are performed on a black background.

[088] Color measurements are performed with a colorimeter. It is a Konica Minolta CR-400 chroma meter. The colorimeter provides the numerical data that represents the absolute value and the color difference between a reference sample and a sample to be controlled. The values obtained in a bare card without film are used as a reference.

[089] The operating conditions are as follows:

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- CIE Standard Observer 1964 10 °

- CIE D65 illuminant

- Measuring geometry d / 0, variant d / 8. The instrument has an optical device that produces diffused light, placed in a spherical cavity covered with a white layer that generates a multiple light reflection. An anti-glare trap eliminates the glare effects of the sample surface.

[090] Initially, the instrument is calibrated with a “white plate”.

[091] Next, an average AE0 is calculated from the L *, a *, b * measurements of the bare ethnic card. This is the color difference between a small area surface area and the corresponding large area. For example, in the African American chart (contrast chart 32 described below), the average color differences between B11 and B11 +, B12 and B11 +, and so on, are calculated:

. _{Λ | =} Σ [ΔΕο- n] mean AE0 = —------- 1 n

with AE0-n = -7 (71 * -Ln *) + (a1 * -an *) + (b1 * -bn *) [092] A transparency that carries a spread (referred to as a film) is then placed over the card ethnic. The same measurements are taken and the average AE is obtained.

[093] Finally, H, which corresponds to the homogenization power of spreading the formula over transparency, is determined according to the equation:

H = Mean AE / Mean AE [094] In particular, these measurements are performed on the contrast plate 32 as defined in order EP 1 433 461 and represented in Figure 4 of said order.

[095] Contrast card 32 comprises a square colored zone B11 + and four rectangular colored zones B11, B12, B12 + and XXX.

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The various zones B11, B11 +, B12, B12 + and XXX are preferably made by printing inks chosen in such a way that these zones appear to an observer as made of the same color under at least two different illuminants, as described in the application European patent EP 1 212 961.

[096] The contrast plate 32 can be representative of the skin whose luminosity is between 30 and 40.

[097] Thus, the various zones B11 +, B11, B12, B12 + and XXX can correspond to the average colors observed in a panel of individuals who have dark skin with a dark complexion, for various regions of the face. The B11 + region can correspond to the average color measured on the forehead in the V1 zones, and the average is calculated with that measured on the cheekbones in the V2 zones.

[098] Zone B11 can correspond to the color measured on the cheekbones, in zone V2, zone B12 to that measured on the forehead, in zones V1, zone B12 + to the average color between that measured in the external shadows in the zones V3, the one measured in the medium shadows of the V4 zones and the one measured around the lips in the V5 zones. Zone XXX can correspond to the color of the inner shadows, measured in zones V6.

[099] Contrast card 32 is characterized, for each zone, by the following values:

Zone B11 + XXX B12 + B12 B11 L * 36.7 29.63 32.98 35.66 38.43 Ç* 19.81 15.06 17.29 19.78 21.76 H 47.34 ° 40.34 ° 44.64 ° 46.32 ° 46.51 °

[0100] Where L * is the luminosity, and Ca saturation, and h the shadow, in the CIE 1976 colorimetric space.

Lightening power measure (E) [0101] E, which corresponds to the lightening power of the diffusion of

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20/24 formula, is determined. This is the ΔΕ measurement between the B11 + zone of the pack before and after the treatment.

E = ΔΕ B11 + before after

Coverage Measurement (CR) [0102] The same diffusions are used as for the determination of the homogenization power. Three spectral reflectance averages are performed on each of the two sides of the contrast chart, the spectrocolorimeter measurement head, directly on films of 50 pm. The values obtained are: X, Y and Z.

[0103] The contrast ratio is calculated by taking the mathematical average of the three Y values on the black background, divided by the average of the three Ys on the white background, multiplied by 100.

Medium (Black)

Contrast Ratio = ------------------------- * 100

Medium (Ybranco)

Smoke and Transparency Measurement [0104] Measurements were performed using Byk Gardner's Haze-gard. This instrument characterizes visual perception through objective measurement values:

• TH transmittance • Smoke (soft focus smoke) [0105] 25 pm film compositions are applied over 50 pm polyethylene (PE) films. The film is then measured after one hour of drying at room temperature. The film is then placed on the instrument and transparency and smudging measures are taken.

Formulation [0106] The studied support is a direct emulsion. Various combinations were introduced on this basis (Example 1) and measures were taken to

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21/24 optical characterization of the formulas were performed. The results are shown in the following tables:

Ingredients Basis of control (ex. 1) comparative (ex. 2) comparative (ex. 3) invention (ex. 4) invention (ex. 5) invention (ex. 6) Silica Silylate (VM-2270 Airgel Fine Dow Particles Corning) 1 1 1 1 Glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175 Boron nitride (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 2.5 2.5 2.5 7.5 Triethanolamine 0.245 0.245 0.245 0.245 0.245 0.245 Xanthan gum 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Caprilyl glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Myristyl Alcohol 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Stearyl alcohol 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Mica / dioxide titanium / tin oxide (Merck's Timiron Silk Blue) 0.5 Disodium EDTA 0.099 0.099 0.099 0.099 0.099 0.099 Glyceryl stearate 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 Cetyl alcohol 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 Pentylene glycol 1 1 1 1 1 1 Miristic Acid 0.024 0.024 0.024 0.024 0.024 0.024 Glycerol 11.2 11.2 11.2 11.2 11.2 11.2 Palmitic acid 0.352 0.352 0.352 0.352 0.352 0.352 Stearic acid 0.424 0.424 0.424 0.424 0.424 0.424 Neopentanoate isostearyl 6 6 6 6 6 6 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Fluid Silicone 10CS) 5 5 5 5 5 5 Pentaeritritl tetrakis (ethylhexanoate) (Nikkol Pentarate 408 from Nikko) 4 4 4 4 4 4 Water q.s. for 100 q.s. to 100 q.s. to 100 q.s. for 100 q.s. for 100 q.s. for 100

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Ingredients Basis of control (ex. 1) comparative (ex. 2) comparative (ex. 3) invention (ex. 4) invention (ex. 5) invention (ex. 6) Mineral oil 2.55 2.55 2.55 2.55 2.55 2.55 Carbomer (Carbopol 981 Polymer from Lubrizol) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 PEG-100 Stearate 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 Polysorbate 60 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9

Results [0107] The results are shown in the following table:

% airgel % mother of pearl % Boron nitride TH Smoke cr and H Example 1 92.7 7.8 16.1 10 1.37 Example 2 1 92 52.5 18 10 1.39 Example 3 2.5 87.5 54.1 32 25.1 2.12 Example 4 1 2.5 86.4 80.8 33.9 26.6 2.54 Example 5 1 0.5 2.5 86.4 80.2 31.9 26.6 2.51 Example 6 1 0.5 7.5 75 97.6 49.6 35.8 3.14

[0108] It was observed that the combination of silica airgel with boron nitride particles allows to obtain levels of high transparency (TH), smokiness, whitening (E) and homogenization power (H) while maintaining the coverage (CR) below 50.

Example 2: OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION formulations

Chemical name % by weight Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, disodium salt. 2 H ₂ O 0.1 Triethanolamine 0.245 Trimethylated silica (free flowing powder) 1 Liquid Vaseline 2.55 Isostearyl neopentanoate 6 Pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate 4 Pure double distilled cetyl alcohol 2 Xanthan gum 0.1

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Chemical name % by weight Carboxyvinyl polymer synthesized in the ethyl acetate / cyclohexane mixture 0.2 Acrylic polymer in water / 1% glycerol, not stabilized (Lubrajel PF by United Guardian) 10 Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 10 cSt) 5 Microbiologically clean deionized water q.s. to 100 Glycerol 4.5 1,2-Pentanediol 1 1,2-Octanodiol 0.5 Oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) 0.9 Fatty acids (predominantly stearic acid) of plant origin 0.8 Mixture of glyceryl mono / distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE) 2.1

Procedure

- 1 / Heat the fatty substances of the formula to 75 ° C until complete homogenization.

- 2 / In parallel, heat the aqueous phase until complete solubilization.

- 3 / Emulsify by pouring the grease phase into the aqueous phase at 65 ° C.

- 4 / Cool to 50 ° C and add the oil phase until a smooth appearance is obtained.

- 5 / Around 40-45 ° C, introduce the acrylic polymer.

- 6 / Introduce the silica airgel until a smooth appearance is obtained.

- 7 / Finally, add triethanolamine until a smooth appearance is obtained.

[0109] When applied to the skin of the face, this composition provides a lightening effect with transparency.

Oil-in-water emulsion [0110] The following examples were performed:

INCI US % by weight PEG-12 dimethicone 0.7 Silica Silylate (VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles from Dow 0.98

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INCI US % by weight Corning) Glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer 0.0525 Boron nitride (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 1 Caprilyl glycol 0.4 Synthetic fluorophyllopite 0.6 Titanium dioxide 0.37 Glycerol 9 Propylene glycol 2 Dimethicone 10 cSt 7 Dimethicone 5 cSt 4 Denatured alcohol 8 Water q.s. to 100 Ammonium polyacryloylethyl taurate (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant) 1

[0111] When tested on the skin of 12 models in India, this composition gives a lightening effect with transparency.

[0112] It should be clear that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or family of compounds are always expressed as the solids weight of the compound in question.

[0113] Throughout the application, the expression comprises one or includes one must be understood to comprise at least one or includes at least one, unless otherwise specified.

Claims (16)

Claims 1. COSMETIC COMPOSITION, characterized by comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oil, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles and at least 0.1% by weight of 0.3 pm non-interferential white scattering particles < D50 <40 pm and 1.7 <RI <2.2. 2. COMPOSITION, according to claim 1, characterized by the hydrophobic silica airgel particles, having a specific surface area per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² / g and more preferably 600 to 800 m ² / g, and a size, expressed as the average volumetric diameter (D [0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, preferably from 1 to 1000 pm, more preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, most preferably from 5 to 20 pm and most preferably from 5 to 15 pm. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, which preferably ranges from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles from 6 to 15 ml / g and more preferably from 8 to 12 ml / g. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a compacted density ranging from 0.02 g / cm ³ to 0.10 g / cm ³ , preferably 0 , 03 g / cm ³ to 0.08 g / cm ³ and in particular, from 0.05 g / cm ³ to 0.08 g / cm ³ . COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by the particles of silica airgel Petition 870190061885, of 7/3/2019, p. 33/36 2/3 hydrophobic are hydrophobic silica airgel particles that are modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably having the name INCI Silica silylate. 6. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hydrophobic airgel particles represent 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably 1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 7. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the white non-interfering scattering particles are chosen from boron nitride, composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate chosen from alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica and synthetic mica, poly (methyl methacrylate) particles (PMMA), polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) particles, or mixtures thereof, the average refractive index is between 1.7 and 2.2. 8. COMPOSITION according to claim 7, characterized in that the white non-interfering scattering particles are boron nitride. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said non-interfering white scattering particles according to the present invention are present in a cosmetic composition in a total amount of active matter that varies from 0.1% 20% with respect to the total weight of the composition and preferably 0.5% to 10%. 10. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a care and / or make-up base, applied alone or under a care and / or make-up product. Petition 870190061885, of 7/3/2019, p. 34/36 3/3 COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises from 0 to 3% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition, of particles of RI> 2.3, in particular, iron oxides . 13. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it also contains at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from peeling agents, moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents to stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, tensing agents, anti-pollution agents or free radical scavengers, agents that act on the microcirculation, and agents that act on the energy metabolism of cells, organic photoprotective agents and inorganic photoprotective agents that are active in the UVA and / or UVB range, and skin bleaching agents. 14. COSMETIC METHOD FOR LIGHTENING and / or homogenizing the skin and / or lips, in particular, the skin, characterized by comprising the topical application on the skin of a composition, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13. 15. METHOD, according to claim 14, characterized in that it is intended for immediate lightening and / or homogenization of the skin and / or lips, in particular, the skin. 16. USE OF A COMBINATION of at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles and at least 0.1% by weight of white non-interfering scattering particles that have 0.3 pm <D50 <40 pm and 1.7 <RI < 2.2, characterized by being in a cosmetic composition to smooth skin defects.