CN1041855C - Process of producing combed stretch denim - Google Patents
Process of producing combed stretch denim Download PDFInfo
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- CN1041855C CN1041855C CN97116777A CN97116777A CN1041855C CN 1041855 C CN1041855 C CN 1041855C CN 97116777 A CN97116777 A CN 97116777A CN 97116777 A CN97116777 A CN 97116777A CN 1041855 C CN1041855 C CN 1041855C
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a method for producing fine combed full elastic denim, which comprises the method for producing colored and indigo fine combed full elastic denim. Elastic yarn formed by the wrapping or the core wrapping of fine combed 32s pure cotton yarn and 40D or 70D spandex fiber of which the drawing multiple is from 3 to 3.5 is used in the warp direction and the weft direction. The colored denim is processed by warp finishing, yarn sizing, weaving, finishing, dyeing and mechanical previous shrinking; the indigo denim is processed by the technical skill of warp finishing, dyeing, sizing, weaving, finishing and mechanical previous shrinking to obtain excellent elasticity. The elastic extending rate is from 20% to 30%, and the elastic recovering rate is not lower than 95%. The clothes woven by the denim have the excellent characteristics of beautiful wearing appearance, no deformation, no fading, etc., and people wearing the clothes feel comfortable.
Description
The present invention relates to the manufacture method of combed stretch denim, described method comprises following two kinds, and a kind of is colored combed stretch denim (piece dyeing finishing), and another kind is indigo combed stretch denim (look is knitted).
Jeans are attractive in appearance with it; arbitrarily; endurable; superperformances such as lines are slightly spacious; Chang Sheng does not wane on fast changing garment market; be subjected to each age group deeply; each arrangement of consumption person likes; but the used lining of popular in the market jeans wear; be subjected to the influence of its raw material and processing technology; most products or familiar faces; there is not characteristic; most product warp; weft yarn all adopts common yarn to do raw material; process through general weaving process; this denim poor flexibility; being made into jeans can not change with the Qu Bianhua that stretches of human body; therefore; wear yielding; knee and ancon can arch upward because of long-time stretching motion; effect is worn in influence; for overcoming this defective; people began to explore and study the denim with stretching and contracting property in recent years; the Chinese patent publication number is the manufacture method that the file of CN1128816A discloses a kind of elastic jean cloth; in this specification only the manufacture method with regard to the indigo elastic jean cloth be described; and because the raw material range of being protected in its claim is wide; have inconsistent and repugnance with the manufacture method that is provided; the indigo elastic jean cloth that produces with the process conditions that it provided can not all be suitable for making clothes; its manufacture method that provides is a product in the indigo elastic jean cloth; therefore, be necessary to provide and comprise colour; the manufacture method of indigo combed stretch denim.
The purpose of this invention is to provide the method for making combed stretch denim, colour and indigo combing denim that the method that adopting is provided is made all have good stretching and contracting property on all directions, not only can manifest individual unique individual character and graceful build, and knee and ancon can not have advantages such as comfortable and easy to wear, attractive in appearance, colour-fast, indeformable because of long-time stretching motion arches upward yet.
For achieving the above object, the present invention takes following design: a kind of manufacture method of combed stretch denim may further comprise the steps: select warp, weft yarn, warping, sizing is weaved, arrangement, dyeing, mechanical preshrunk, the process conditions in described each step are respectively:
(1) select warp thread, weft yarn for use: warp, weft yarn raw material all adopt 32 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production of combing and 40D or 70D spandex silk, and its drafting multiple is 3-3.5, through looping or Bao Xin, and the stretch yarn that forms;
(2) warping: the warping speed of a motor vehicle is 700-750m/min, and the warping single yarn tension is 35-45g;
(3) sizing: the rate of sizing is controlled at 8.8-11.5%, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 40-50m/min, and sizing is respectively distinguished the sheet yarn tension and is controlled at following scope:
Warp let-off tension force 450-550N
Feeding tension force 280-340N
Do district tension force 1800-2000N
Winding tension 2600-2800N
Press yarn power 3000-3200N
By above tension force, the sizing percentage elongation is controlled at 1.5-2.5%;
(4) weaving technology: adopt Switzerland import Suhl longevity P7100 gripper shuttle loom,
Fabric tissue adopts 3/1 twill, and the fabric total tightness degree is 85-90%;
Weft tension 25-35g
Opening time 5 degree
Back beam height 10-15mm
Powerful scale 4-5
Cloth supporting plate height: 51mm
Opening traverse 4,4,4,4,5,5
Six stupefied rod height 90mm
Heald frame height 130,131,132,133,134,135mm
(5) mechanical preshrunk: fabric is carried out mechanical preshrunk, make the fabric enzyme wash the shrinkage warp-wise and be no more than 8%, broadwise is no more than 4%, reaches the clothing making requirement.
The manufacture method of another kind of combed stretch denim comprises: select warp, weft yarn, and warping, dyeing, sizing is weaved, arrangement, preshrunk, the process conditions in described each step are respectively:
(1) select warp thread, weft yarn for use: warp, weft yarn raw material all adopt 32 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production of combing and 40D spandex silk, and its drafting multiple is 3-3.5, through looping or Bao Xin, and the stretch yarn that forms;
(2) warping: the warping speed of a motor vehicle is 700-750m/min, and the warping single yarn tension is 35-45g;
(3) dyeing: adopt sizing-dyeing machine, by known cowboy's Buran axle technology, drying tube temperature is no more than 110 degree, and each distinguishes tension force based on middle small tension receiving coil.
(4) starching: the rate of sizing is 8-10%, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 20-30m/min, and the sizing percentage elongation is controlled at 1.5-2.5%.
(5) weave: adopt the P7100 gripper shuttle loom, fabric tissue adopts 3/1 twill, and the fabric total tightness degree is 85-90%:
Weft tension 25-35g
Cloth supporting plate height 51mm
Opening time 5 degree
Opening traverse 4,4,4,4,5,5
Back beam height 10-15mm
Six stupefied rod height 90mm
Tension force scale 4-5
Heald frame height 130,131,132,133,134,135mm
(6) arrangement: destarch, oven dry, temperature are no more than 100 degree, and destarch is arrived minimum with caustic soda amount grasp less than normal, each transmission position Tension Control;
(7) mechanical preshrunk: fabric is carried out mechanical preshrunk, make the fabric enzyme wash the shrinkage warp-wise and be no more than 8%, broadwise is no more than 4%, reaches the clothing making requirement.
In the method for above-mentioned two kinds of manufacturing combed stretch denims, the processing step of colored combed stretch denim
Wherein arranging process and dyeing process all adopt existing technique known.
The processing step of described indigo combed stretch denim is:
Indication of the present invention " combed stretch " speech is meant through weft yarn and all adopts 32 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production of combing and 40D or 70D spandex silk (drafting multiple is 3-3.5), the stretch yarn that forms through looping (or Bao Xin), and the denim that this yarn is made into, radially or broadwise (comprising other direction), elastic extension can reach 20-30% under the effect of power, after external force disappears, can retract to original shape rapidly, elastic restoration ratio can reach more than 95%, and the washing shrinkage warp-wise is no more than 8%, and broadwise is no more than 4%.
The present invention is owing to all contain the spandex filament of a 40D or 70D (DENIER) in the yarn of every of the warp-wise of fabric and broadwise, because the existence of spandex silk makes product have bigger potential elasticity in the mill, therefore, brought many difficulties for the manufacture process of product, this also is a unconquerable difficult point in the prior art, two kinds of manufacture methods provided by the invention, taked strong safeguard measure technically, carried out big breakthrough technically, the combed stretch denim that the present invention is made has reached Expected Results.
Advantage of the present invention: owing in the yarn of every of the warp-wise of fabric and broadwise, all contain the spandex filament of a 40D or 70D, and distinctive process conditions have been adopted, make the final products elastic extension can reach 20-30%, elastic restoration ratio can reach more than 95%.The washing shrinkage warp-wise is no more than 8%, and broadwise is no more than 4%.
The invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment.
Embodiment 1
Select materials:
Warp thread: combing 32/2+40D elastic force wrapped yarn (i.e. the elastic force wrapped yarn of 32 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production and 40D spandex silk)
Weft yarn: combing 32/2+40D elastic force wrapped yarn (i.e. the elastic force wrapped yarn of 32 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production and 40D spandex silk)
Spandex filament drafting multiple 3.5.
Warp thread after selecting materials is through warping, sizing, weave again, and weaving is that warp thread is weaved with weft yarn, weave after put, dye, be mechanical preshrunk at last, wherein, the process conditions of each step are:
Warping:
The warping speed of a motor vehicle is 700-750m/min, and the warping single yarn tension is 35g,
Sizing:
Adopt known Sizing Technology, the rate of sizing is controlled at 9-11.5%, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 40-50m/min,
Sizing is respectively distinguished the sheet yarn tension and is controlled in the following scope:
Warp let-off tension force 450-500N
Winding tension 2600-2700N
Feeding tension force 280-300N
Press yarn power 3000-3100N
Do district tension force 1800-1900N
By above tension force, the sizing percentage elongation is controlled at 1.5-2.5%.
Weave:
Adopt Switzerland import Suhl longevity P7100 gripper shuttle loom.
Fabric tissue adopts 3/1 twill, and the fabric total tightness degree is 85%.
Weft tension 30g
Cloth supporting plate height 51mm
Opening time 5 degree
Opening traverse 4,4,4,4,5,5
Back beam height 10-15mm
Six stupefied rod height 90mm
Tension force scale 4-5
Heald frame height 130,131,132,133,134,135mm
Arrangement: adopt known finishing technique
Dyeing: pad dyeing, adopt known denim dyeing and finishing technology, oven dry: adopt known drying technology, make fabric carry out the preshrunk first time.
Machinery preshrunk:
Fabric is carried out mechanical preshrunk, make the fabric enzyme wash the shrinkage warp-wise and be no more than 8%, broadwise is no more than 4%, reaches the clothing making requirement
Embodiment 2:
Select materials:
Warp thread: combing 32/2+70D elastic force wrapped yarn
Weft yarn: combing 32/2+70D elastic force wrapped yarn
Spandex filament drafting multiple 3.5
Adopt the technological process identical with embodiment 1, wherein:
Warping:
The warping speed of a motor vehicle is 700-750m/min, and the warping single yarn tension is 40g
Sizing:
Adopt known Sizing Technology, the rate of sizing is controlled at 8.5-11%, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 40-50m/min
Sizing is respectively distinguished the sheet yarn tension and is controlled in the following scope:
Warp let-off tension force 500-550N
Winding tension 2700-2800N
Feeding tension force 300-340N
Press yarn power 3100-3200N
Do district tension force 1900-2000N by above tension force, the sizing percentage elongation is controlled at 1.5-2.5%
Weave:
It is 89% that (adopting Switzerland import Suhl longevity P7100 gripper shuttle loom) fabric tissue adopts 3/1 TWILL CLOTH total tightness degree
Weft tension 35g
Opening time 5 degree
Back beam height 10-15mm
Tension force scale 4-5
Cloth supporting plate height 51mm
Opening traverse 4,4,4,4,5,5
Six stupefied rod height 90mm
Heald frame height 130,131,132,133,134,135mm
Arrangement:
Adopt known finishing technique
Dyeing:
Pad dyeing adopts known drying technology to make fabric carry out the preshrunk first time
Machinery preshrunk:
Fabric is carried out mechanical preshrunk, make the fabric enzyme wash the shrinkage warp-wise and be no more than 8%, broadwise is no more than 4%, reaches the clothing making requirement.
Embodiment 3:
Select materials:
Warp thread: combing 32/2+40D elastic force wrapped yarn
Weft yarn: combing 32/2+40D elastic force wrapped yarn, spandex filament drafting multiple 3.5
After selecting materials, adopt following flow process: warp thread is through warping, dyeing, starching, again with weft yarn weave, again through arrangement, mechanical preshrunk, wherein:
Warping:
The warping speed of a motor vehicle is 700-750m/min, the 35g of warping single yarn tension.
Dyeing:
Adopt sizing-dyeing machine, by known cowboy's Buran axle technology, drying tube temperature is no more than 110 degree, each distinguish tension force based in, small tension receiving coil.
Starching:
Adopt known Sizing Technology, the rate of sizing is 8-10%, speed of a motor vehicle 20-30m/min, and the sizing percentage elongation is controlled at 1.5-2.5%.
Weave:
Adopt the P7100 gripper shuttle loom, fabric tissue adopts 3/1 twill, and the fabric total tightness degree is 85%
Weft tension 30g
Opening time 5 degree
Back slurry height 10-15mm
Tension force scale 4-5
Cloth supporting plate height 51mm
Opening traverse 4,4,4,4,5,5.
Six stupefied rod height 90mm
Heald frame height 130,131,132,133,134,135mm
Arrangement:
Destarch, oven dry, temperature are no more than 100 degree, and destarch is arrived minimum with caustic soda amount grasp less than normal, each transmission position Tension Control.
Machinery preshrunk:
Fabric is carried out mechanical preshrunk, make the fabric enzyme wash the shrinkage warp-wise and be no more than 8%, broadwise is no more than 4%, reaches the clothing making requirement.
The mensuration of fabric shrinkage:
The method of measuring fabric shrinkage is: place washing machine through three cyclic washings in fabric, measure dry forward and backward fabric size, wash the ratio of difference with the preceding size of washing of forward and backward size, be fabric shrinkage, this washing is as follows arid cycle:
Add washing agent in washing machine, temperature stirred 30 minutes under 60 degree conditions, washing 10 minutes in the clear water of 40 degree then, is that rinsing was dewatered after 10 minutes in 30 degree (30 ℃) water in temperature again, parches taking-up under the temperature conditions of 60-70 degree, quiet put 10-15 minute after, measure its size
The washing shrinkage of size * 100%=fabric before (the dry back of size before the washing-washing size)/washing.
Spandex silk content in the elastic force cotton yarn can be 3.5-7% among the present invention, and cotton content is 93-96.5% (weight ratio).
In sum, the invention provides and make colored and indigo combed stretch denim method, use the method The full elastic denim that produces all has good stretching and nerve at warp, latitude (comprising on any direction) Can, its elastic extension can reach 20-30%, elastic restoration ratio 〉=95%, and the warp-wise washing shrinkage is no more than 8%, The broadwise washing shrinkage is no more than 4%, and is beautiful in colour with the cowboy suit that this denim is made, good springiness, not only Can manifest individual unique makings and graceful build, and knee and ancon also can be because stretching for a long time Move and arch upward, have and wear the characteristics such as attractive in appearance, comfortable, colour-fast, indeformable, the present invention is cowboy suit Further lay a good foundation to the high-grade comfortable sexual development.
Claims (3)
1, a kind of manufacture method of combed stretch denim, it may further comprise the steps: selects through, weft yarn, warping, sizing is weaved, puts in order, is dyeed, mechanical preshrunk, and it is characterized in that: the process conditions in described each step are respectively:
(1) select warp thread, weft yarn for use: warp, weft yarn raw material all adopt 32 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production of combing and 40D or 70D spandex silk, and its drafting multiple is 3-3.5, through looping or Bao Xin, and the stretch yarn that forms;
(2) warping: the warping speed of a motor vehicle is 700-750m/min, and the warping single yarn tension is 35-45g;
(3) sizing: the rate of sizing is controlled at 8.8-11.5%, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 40-50m/min, and sizing is respectively distinguished the sheet yarn tension and is controlled at following scope:
Warp let-off tension force 450-550N
Feeding tension force 280-340N
Do district tension force 1800-2000N
Winding tension 2600-2800N
Press yarn power 3000-3200N
By above tension force, the sizing percentage elongation is controlled at 1.5-2.5%;
(4) weaving technology: adopt Switzerland import Suhl longevity P7100 gripper shuttle loom,
Fabric tissue adopts 3/1 twill, and the fabric total tightness degree is 85-90%;
Weft tension 25-35g
Opening time 5 degree
Back beam height 10-15mm
Powerful scale 4-5
Cloth supporting plate height: 51mm.
Opening traverse 4,4,4,4,5,5
Six stupefied rod height 90mm
Heald frame height 130,131,132,133,134,135mm
(5) mechanical preshrunk: fabric is carried out mechanical preshrunk, make the fabric enzyme wash the shrinkage warp-wise and be no more than 8%, broadwise is no more than 4%, reaches the clothing making requirement.
2, a kind of manufacture method of combed stretch denim comprises: select warp, weft yarn, and warping, dyeing, sizing is weaved, arrangement, preshrunk is characterized in that: the process conditions in described each step are respectively:
(1) select warp thread, weft yarn for use: warp, weft yarn raw material all adopt 32 Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production of combing and 40D spandex silk, and its drafting multiple is 3-3.5, through looping or Bao Xin, and the stretch yarn that forms;
(2) warping: the warping speed of a motor vehicle is 700-750m/min, and the warping single yarn tension is 35-45g;
(3) dyeing: adopt sizing-dyeing machine, by cowboy's Buran axle technology, drying tube temperature is no more than 110 degree, and each distinguishes tension force based on middle small tension receiving coil;
(4) starching: the rate of sizing is 8.-10%, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 20-30m/min, and the sizing percentage elongation is controlled at 1.5-2.5%;
(5) weave: adopt the P7100 gripper shuttle loom, fabric tissue adopts 3/1 twill, and the fabric total tightness degree is 85-90%:
Weft tension 25-35g
Cloth supporting plate height 51mm
Opening time 5 degree
Opening traverse 4,4,4,4,5,5
Back beam height 10-15mm
Six stupefied rod height 90mm
Tension force scale 4-5
Heald frame height 130,131,132,133,134,135mm
(6) arrangement: destarch, oven dry, temperature are no more than 100 degree, and destarch is arrived minimum with caustic soda amount grasp less than normal, each transmission position Tension Control;
(7) mechanical preshrunk: fabric is carried out mechanical preshrunk, make the fabric enzyme wash the shrinkage warp-wise and be no more than 8%.Broadwise is no more than 4%, reaches the clothing making requirement.
3, the manufacture method of combed stretch denim according to claim 1 and 2 is characterized in that: the composition of elastic force cotton yarn is that spandex silk content in the elastic force cotton yarn is 3.5-7%, and cotton content is 93-96.5% (weight ratio).
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN97116777A CN1041855C (en) | 1997-08-19 | 1997-08-19 | Process of producing combed stretch denim |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN97116777A CN1041855C (en) | 1997-08-19 | 1997-08-19 | Process of producing combed stretch denim |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN1174254A CN1174254A (en) | 1998-02-25 |
| CN1041855C true CN1041855C (en) | 1999-01-27 |
Family
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN97116777A Expired - Fee Related CN1041855C (en) | 1997-08-19 | 1997-08-19 | Process of producing combed stretch denim |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN1041855C (en) |
Families Citing this family (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1079458C (en) * | 1999-12-28 | 2002-02-20 | 江苏Ab集团有限责任公司 | Knitted jean yarn making process |
| US8652286B2 (en) * | 2009-01-09 | 2014-02-18 | Reebok International Limited | Stretchable applique and method for making the same |
| CN102268764A (en) * | 2010-06-07 | 2011-12-07 | 罗莱家纺股份有限公司 | Compound silk fabric and production method thereof |
| CN102268770B (en) * | 2011-08-03 | 2013-01-30 | 江苏顺远纺织科技有限公司 | Crinkle cotton check cloth |
| CN103388222A (en) * | 2013-08-20 | 2013-11-13 | 吴江市帛乔纺织有限公司 | Vertical twill antiquing jean cloth |
| CN103774331B (en) * | 2014-01-20 | 2015-04-01 | 宁波百佳纺织服装有限公司 | Production process of permanently-elastic all-cotton fine-needle rib |
| CN104831453A (en) * | 2015-05-13 | 2015-08-12 | 枣庄海扬王朝纺织有限公司 | Process of producing bromo indigo jean through bundle type yarn |
| CN106917178A (en) * | 2017-03-14 | 2017-07-04 | 山东岱银纺织集团股份有限公司 | Based on elastomeric denim fabric and Weaving method |
| CN109576978A (en) * | 2018-11-12 | 2019-04-05 | 北京阿尔法针织有限公司 | A kind of tatting technique of woven fabric |
| CN111286845A (en) * | 2020-02-20 | 2020-06-16 | 佛山市南海德耀纺织实业有限公司 | Hemp elastic antibacterial denim fabric and processing method thereof |
| CN112663204A (en) * | 2020-12-15 | 2021-04-16 | 江苏英瑞世家实业有限公司 | Knitting-imitated double-elastic sanded jean fabric and preparation method thereof |
Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1056723A (en) * | 1990-05-24 | 1991-12-04 | 纳幕尔杜邦公司 | The pre-manufacture method of not having the slurry denim of shrinking |
| CN1083877A (en) * | 1992-12-05 | 1994-03-16 | 如皋市纺织厂 | Air spinning silk-cotton interwoven denim and production method thereof |
| CN1128816A (en) * | 1995-10-26 | 1996-08-14 | 山东华莱纺织有限公司 | Method for producing full elastic denim |
-
1997
- 1997-08-19 CN CN97116777A patent/CN1041855C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1056723A (en) * | 1990-05-24 | 1991-12-04 | 纳幕尔杜邦公司 | The pre-manufacture method of not having the slurry denim of shrinking |
| CN1083877A (en) * | 1992-12-05 | 1994-03-16 | 如皋市纺织厂 | Air spinning silk-cotton interwoven denim and production method thereof |
| CN1128816A (en) * | 1995-10-26 | 1996-08-14 | 山东华莱纺织有限公司 | Method for producing full elastic denim |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN1174254A (en) | 1998-02-25 |
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