CN103720092A - Cold feeling fabric for polo shirt - Google Patents
Cold feeling fabric for polo shirt Download PDFInfo
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- CN103720092A CN103720092A CN201210381803.7A CN201210381803A CN103720092A CN 103720092 A CN103720092 A CN 103720092A CN 201210381803 A CN201210381803 A CN 201210381803A CN 103720092 A CN103720092 A CN 103720092A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a cold feeling fabric for a polo shirt. The fabric is a knitted fabric composed of, by weight, more than 45% of composite yarn containing regenerated cellulose fibers and the balance air textured yarn or staple fiber yarn made of polyamide fibers or polyester fibers. The composite yarn is interlaced yarn or air textured yarn, and by weight, 25-85% of regenerated cellulose fibers is used as core yarn, 15-75% of polyamide fibers or polyester fibers is used as sheath yarn and the proportion by which loops are formed by compounding the fabric and the yarn is over 90%. The cold feeling fabric has a superior touch feeling sense and size stability and can be applied to polo shirt making.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of polo shirt creeping chill fabric.
Background technology
Polo shirt fabric in existing market generally has cotton products, polyester fiber goods, Fypro goods, regenerated cellulosics.Wherein cotton products snugness of fit is relatively good, but well-known washing size stability is not good; Polyester fiber goods have strong durable, quick-drying washable, the advantage such as conformality is good, but also exist that hygroscopicity is poor, dress has feeling of oppression and heat, the easy shortcoming such as static electrification; Fypro goods have that intensity is high, wearability good, and hygroscopicity and dyeability are good, but also poor just like wrinkle resistance: the shortcoming of light resistance and poor heat resistance etc.; That regenerated celulose fibre goods have is soft, ventilative comfortable, the einnehmen function such as moisture pick-up properties is good, drapability is good of dress, but also exist wet very low, fabric shrinkage by force greatly, rigidity, resilience and the shortcoming such as wrinkle resistance is poor.The finished product of making separately due to above fiber all has certain disadvantages, so cause application narrow, can not meet everybody comprehensive demand.
Therefore someone proposes various fibers to carry out making fabric after blending product, as regenerated celulose fibre and polyster fibre carried out to blending as looping layer in Chinese patent CN200410016786.2, H tee section polyster fibre is as sandwich layer, the fabric of this type of yarn braiding have height lead wet, breathe freely, contact comfortable effect, but because looping layer is blending spun yarn, there is filoplume yarn surface, creeping chill effect is still weak, be not suitable for for making polo shirt, and comparison between projects complexity, cost compare costliness.And for example, by the scribbled of Fypro and regenerated celulose fibre formation, because the crimp percent of Fypro is lower, the obvolvent poor performance in spinning process between fiber, makes spinning property poor.For another example in Chinese patent CN201120070430.2, a kind of anti-flaming core spun yarn fabric is disclosed, take polyester, polyamide, spandex, polyvinyl, polyethylene or their composite filament as heart yarn, cotton fiber, viscose rayon or their composite fibre are coated on to heart yarn skin.What adopt due to it is cored complex method, the fabric feeling of its formation is fluffy not, hygroscopicity and absorbing fast-drying not good, can not meet the demand of common dress material.
Therefore on market in the urgent need to a kind of polo shirt fabric with multifunctionality, simultaneously dimensionally stable and feel excellence.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of polo shirt creeping chill fabric that has good contact creeping chill performance, moisture pick-up properties, rapid-curing cutback performance.
Technical solution of the present invention is:
Creeping chill fabric of the present invention for by more than 45 % by weight containing the composite yarn of regenerated celulose fibre and the knitted fabric that air deformation yarn or spun yarn were formed that is raw material with Fypro or polyester fiber of surplus; Above-mentioned composite yarn is network yarn or air deformation yarn, makes Fypro or the polyester fiber of heart yarn, 75～15 % by weight make sheath yarn with the regenerated celulose fibre of 25～85 % by weight, and mainly, in the lopping of fabric reverse side, proportion is more than 90%.Gained fabric can obtain moisture absorption rate variance more than 4.0 without special process of resin, contact coldness value more than 0.130, good dimension stability, be applicable to making polo shirt.
In creeping chill fabric of the present invention, the composite yarn containing regenerated celulose fibre used is network yarn or air deformation yarn (ATY), makes Fypro or the polyester fiber of heart yarn, 75～15 % by weight make sheath yarn with the regenerated celulose fibre of 25～85 % by weight.If proportion is lower than 25 % by weight in composite yarn entirety for the content of regenerated celulose fibre, the hygroscopicity of gained fabric and contact coldness can be greatly affected; And proportion is higher than 85 % by weight, the wet strength of gained fabric and dimensional stability can be greatly affected; In order to prevent the undue effect of air pressure to regenerated celulose fibre in yarn process, there is filoplume, so the heart yarn using regenerated celulose fibre as composite yarn is used.By compound with polyester fiber or Fypro, improve the brute force of composite yarn entirety, be specially 1.5～3.0cN/dtex, thereby improved the weavability energy of textile.
In creeping chill fabric of the present invention, the content of composite yarn is at least more than 45 % by weight, preferably 45～60 % by weight.If proportion is lower than 45 % by weight in fabric entirety for the content of complex yarn, the hygroscopicity of gained fabric and contact coldness can be affected; If proportion is higher than 60 % by weight in fabric entirety for the content of complex yarn, peculiar feel and the dimensional stability of gained polo shirt fabric can be greatly affected.Surplus yarn is air deformation yarn or the spun yarn take Fypro or polyester fiber as raw material, and such combination can guarantee the good pelvic bone feel of fabric.The spun yarn here can be vortex spinning MVS yarn, compact spinning etc.
In order to obtain better contact coldness performance, sheath yarn preferred polyamide fiber; Consider hygroscopicity, the more preferably Fypro of profiled-cross-section, can be polyamide 6 long filament, can be also polyamide 66 long filament.Regenerated celulose fibre in above-mentioned composite yarn can be viscose filament yarn, cellulose acetate filament or cuprammonium long filament, preferably viscose filament yarn or cuprammonium long filament.The preferred full-drawn yarn of composite yarn each fibrous raw material used.
In the present invention's composite yarn used, the filament number of regenerated celulose fibre is 1～5D, and the filament number of polyester fiber (PET fiber) or Fypro (PA fiber) is 0.1～5D.If filament number is too small, the filoplume of gained fabric increases, produces difficulty, cloth cover grade declines; If filament number is excessive, the feel hardening of gained fabric, hygroscopicity and cloth cover grade decline.
The concrete production method of the present invention's composite yarn used, when the mode compound tense of Adoption Network, the over feed rate(OFR) of regenerated celulose fibre is 0%～3.5%, tonnage is 1.0～4.5kg; Guaranteeing under interlacing number and the inhomogeneity prerequisite of interlacing, the over feed rate(OFR) of regenerated celulose fibre preferably 0～2.5%, tonnage is 1.0～3.5kg preferably; And the over feed rate(OFR) of polyester fiber or Fypro is 0～10%.
When adopting the mode compound tense of air-texturing, over feed rate(OFR)≤7% of regenerated celulose fibre, tonnage 3.5～12kg, preferably≤5%, tonnage is 3.5～8kg preferably for over feed rate(OFR); And the over feed rate(OFR) of polyester fiber or Fypro is 0～30%.
Filament length difference between creeping chill fabric mesotheca yarn of the present invention and heart yarn is 3%～15%.In order to obtain soft contact feel, under the prerequisite of unlikely generation filoplume or other unfavorable factors, filament length difference preferably 3%～10%, more preferably 5～10%.When textile that fibrous raw material and complex yarn form through after after humid heat treatment, dry heat treatment condition in process determine, the filament length difference that heart yarn and sheath yarn are produced by difference in shrinkage is certain, therefore want to obtain higher filament length difference, can also control by the difference of the over feed rate(OFR) of complex yarn heart yarn and sheath yarn.
In creeping chill fabric of the present invention, the twist of composite yarn is 0～1500T/M.Because polo fabric needs the certain sense of dangling, distinctive bony feel and contact coldness performance, the twist is preferably 500～1500T/M.If the twist is lower than 500T/M, the sense a bit deficient in of dangling of gained fabric, sheath yarn is easy to be separation with heart yarn, reduces cloth cover quality; If the twist is higher than 1500T/M, the feel hardening of gained fabric, regenerated celulose fibre easily fracture cause that filoplume is multiple, reduce cloth cover quality.
Creeping chill fabric of the present invention is the round tricot of dual or two-sided tissue.
About the concrete production method of creeping chill fabric of the present invention, the yarn of selecting above-mentioned complex yarn to adjust as comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinnings such as the air deformation yarn of part material and surplus or spun yarns matches, by twisting, braiding, form grey cloth, then by the common engineering such as concise, middle sizing, dyeing, finished product sizing, form goods.In order to guarantee stable filament length difference, in process engineering, appended middle sizing engineering.The surplus yarn matching with composite yarn, the yarn of adjusting if not comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, gained fabric does not just have the distinctive comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning of polo shirt to adjust pelvic bone feel.
Creeping chill fabric of the present invention through broadwise, split brokenly brute force all more than 250N; Excellent size stability, is-5%～0 through broadwise wash shrinkage rate; Through broadwise dry-hot shrinkage, be-2%～2%; Diagonal shrinkage factor 0～3%.With KES style instrument, testing its bending stiffness is 0.05～0.1N.cm2/cm, and contact coldness value is more than 0.130; There is the peculiar pelvic bone sense of polo shirt fabric; And greatly improved the comfort property of dress.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the knit stitches figure of embodiment 1,3,5,6 and comparative example 1,2,3, and A is the yarn that composite yarn, B are surplus.
Fig. 2 is the knit stitches figure of embodiment 2, and B is the yarn that composite yarn, A are surplus.
Fig. 3 is the knit stitches figure of embodiment 4, and B is the yarn that composite yarn, A are surplus.
The specific embodiment
In the present invention, the method for testing of the each performance of fabric is as follows:
(1) filament length difference
A. from goods, extract the complex yarn of certain length, then, from complex yarn, extract respectively regenerated celulose fibre and polyester fiber (or Fypro);
B. measure respectively the length L of regenerated celulose fibre
1and the length L of polyester fiber (or Fypro)
2;
C. by following formula, calculate filament length difference:
Filament length difference=(L
2-L
1)/L
1* 100%
D. repeat above step 3 time, calculate filament length difference mean value.
(2) ratio of coil (coil that composite yarn forms is in the ratio of reverse side)
A. sample 10cm × 10cm
B. at sample cloth reverse side number, go out number and the overall coil number of composite yarn coil
C. ratio=composite yarn coil number ÷ overall coil number × 100% of composite yarn coil.
(3) dry-hot shrinkage
I. get 3 of the test films of about 25cm × about 25cm, at the mark that is long 200mm through, each 3 places of latitude;
II. the surface of test film is upwards placed on the lower flatiron of ironing-tables;
III. with presses by rated condition flatiron below:
| Temperature | 150±5℃ |
| Pressure | 29.4kpa(300g/cm 2) |
| Time | Steam 20 seconds |
IV. test film is placed on smooth estrade and is placed after 24 hours, measure the length (reading to 0.5mm) between each mark, ask respectively the mean value of 3 of longitudes and latitudes;
V. according to following formula driven dimension rate of change (%), represent (after decimal point 1) with the mean value of each 3 of longitude and latitude
Size changing rate (%)=(L-200)/200*100
Here L: after flatiron through or the mark of latitude between the mean value (mm) of length.
(4) wash shrinkage rate: JIS L 1096:2001 G method.
(5) diagonal shrinkage factor: JIS L 0217 hangs dry method.
(6) bending stiffness
With reference to the KES-method of Kato Tech company, KES style instrument machine models: ES-FB1-AUTO-A.
(7) contact coldness
With reference to the KES-method of Kato Tech company, KES style instrument machine models: KES-F7-II.
(8) split brokenly brute force
According to JIS L 1018 A methods.
Below in conjunction with embodiment and comparative example, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1
50D-24f-viscose filament yarn is as heart yarn, 30D-28f-polyamide 6 long filament is as sheath yarn, and by Cyber process, the over feed rate(OFR) of heart yarn and sheath yarn is 1.25%, tonnage is 2kg, obtains the complex yarn that brute force is 62.5% for 1.7cN/dtex, viscose filament yarn content; Select the above-mentioned complex yarn making, 150D polyamide ATY yarn to form grey cloth by two-sided tissue (accompanying drawing 1) braiding, then by engineerings such as concise (95 ℃ of temperature), middle sizing (185 ℃ of temperature), dyeing, finished product sizings (160 ℃ of temperature), form polo shirt creeping chill fabric of the present invention.In this fabric, the content of complex yarn is 58%, and the content of polyamide ATY yarn is 42%; In complex yarn, the filament length difference of polyamide filaments and viscose filament yarn is 7%; The ratio of the coil that fabric reverse side composite yarn forms is 92%.The dimensional stability of this fabric is good, has the distinctive pelvic bone sense of polo fabric, and design parameter is in Table 1.
Embodiment 2
50D-24f-cuprammonium long filament is as heart yarn, 30D-28f-polyamide 6 long filament is as sheath yarn, and by Cyber process, the over feed rate(OFR) of heart yarn and sheath yarn is 1.25%, tonnage is 2kg, obtains the complex yarn that brute force is 62.5% for 1.7cN/dtex, cuprammonium long filament content; Selecting the above-mentioned complex yarn making and 150D polyamide ATY yarn is raw material, by two-sided tissue (accompanying drawing 2) braiding, forms grey cloth, and all the other form polo shirt creeping chill fabric of the present invention with embodiment 1.In this fabric, the content of complex yarn is 60%, and the content of polyamide ATY yarn is 40%; In complex yarn, the filament length difference of polyamide 6 long filament and cuprammonium long filament is 7%; The ratio of the coil that fabric reverse side composite yarn forms is 92%.The dimensional stability of this fabric is good, has the distinctive pelvic bone sense of polo fabric, and design parameter is in Table 1.
Embodiment 3
50D-24f-cellulose acetate filament is as heart yarn, 30D-28f-PFY is as sheath yarn, and by air-texturing (ATY) processing, the over feed rate(OFR) of heart yarn and sheath yarn is 1.32%, tonnage is 3.6kg, obtains the complex yarn that brute force is 38.5% for 1.6cN/dtex, cellulose acetate filament content; Selecting the above-mentioned complex yarn making and 150D polyester ATY yarn is raw material, by two-sided tissue (accompanying drawing 1) braiding, forms grey cloth, and all the other form polo shirt creeping chill fabric of the present invention with embodiment 1.In this fabric, the content of complex yarn is 56%, and the content of polyester ATY yarn is 44%; In complex yarn, the filament length difference of PFY and viscose filament yarn is 8%; The ratio of the coil that fabric reverse side composite yarn forms is 93%.The dimensional stability of this fabric is good, has the distinctive pelvic bone sense of polo fabric, and design parameter is in Table 1.
Embodiment 4
50D-24f-viscose filament yarn is as heart yarn, 30D-28f-polyamide 6 long filament is as sheath yarn, and by Cyber process, the over feed rate(OFR) of heart yarn and sheath yarn is 1.25%, tonnage is 2kg, obtains the complex yarn that brute force is 62.5% for 1.7cN/dtex, viscose filament yarn content; Selecting the above-mentioned complex yarn making and 150D polyamide ATY yarn is raw material, by duplex structure (accompanying drawing 3) braiding of washing capping, forms grey cloth, and all the other form polo shirt creeping chill fabric of the present invention with embodiment 1.In this fabric, the content of complex yarn is 48%, and the content of polyamide ATY yarn is 52%; In complex yarn, the filament length difference of polyamide 6 long filament and viscose filament yarn is 7%; The ratio of the coil that fabric reverse side composite yarn forms is 100%.The dimensional stability of this fabric is good, has the distinctive pelvic bone sense of polo fabric, and design parameter is in Table 1.
Embodiment 5
50D-24f-viscose filament yarn is as heart yarn, 30D-28f-polyamide 6 long filament is as sheath yarn, and by Cyber process, the over feed rate(OFR) of heart yarn and sheath yarn is 1.25%, tonnage is 2kg, obtains the complex yarn that brute force is 62.5% for 1.7cN/dtex, viscose filament yarn content; Selecting complex yarn and the 150D polyamide ATY yarn that the above-mentioned twist making is S-600T/M is raw material, by two-sided tissue (accompanying drawing 1) braiding, forms grey cloth, and all the other form polo shirt creeping chill fabric of the present invention with embodiment 1.In this fabric, the content of complex yarn is 58%, and air deformation yarn content is 42%; In complex yarn, the filament length difference of polyamide 6 long filament and viscose filament yarn is 7%; The ratio of the coil that fabric reverse side composite yarn forms is 92%.This fabric dimensional stability is good, has the distinctive pelvic bone sense of polo fabric.Because complex yarn is through twisting, compared with embodiment 1, embodiment 5 pelvic bone senses are stronger, and design parameter is in Table 1.
Embodiment 6
50D-24f-viscose filament yarn is as heart yarn, 30D-28f-polyamide 6 long filament is as sheath yarn, and by Cyber process, the over feed rate(OFR) of heart yarn and sheath yarn is 1.25%, tonnage is 2kg, obtains the complex yarn that brute force is 62.5% for 1.7cN/dtex, viscose filament yarn content; Selecting complex yarn and the 30S polyamide MVS spun yarn that the above-mentioned twist making is S-600T/M is raw material, by two-sided tissue (accompanying drawing 1) braiding, forms grey cloth, and all the other form polo shirt creeping chill fabric of the present invention with embodiment 1.In this fabric, the content of complex yarn is that 57%, MVS spun yarn content is 43%; In complex yarn, the filament length difference of polyamide 6 long filament and viscose filament yarn is 7%; The ratio of the coil that fabric reverse side composite yarn forms is 92%.The dimensional stability of this fabric is good, has the distinctive pelvic bone sense of polo fabric, and design parameter is in Table 2.
Comparative example 1
50D-24f-viscose filament yarn is as heart yarn, 30D-28f-polyamide 6 long filament is as sheath yarn, and by Cyber process, the over feed rate(OFR) of heart yarn and sheath yarn is 1.25%, tonnage is 2kg, obtains the complex yarn that brute force is 62.5% for 1.7cN/dtex, viscose filament yarn content; Selecting complex yarn and the 150D-48f-polyester DTY yarn that the above-mentioned twist making is S-600T/M is raw material, by two-sided tissue (accompanying drawing 1) braiding, forms grey cloth, and all the other form creeping chill fabric with embodiment 1.This fabric dimensional stability is bad, and does not have the distinctive pelvic bone sense of polo fabric, and design parameter is in Table 2.
Comparative example 2
The polyester MVS spun yarn of 150D-48f-polyester DTY yarn and 30S is raw material, by two-sided tissue (accompanying drawing 1) braiding, forms grey cloth, and all the other form creeping chill fabric with embodiment 1.In this fabric, the content of polyester DTY yarn is 60%, and polyester MVS spun yarn content is 40%; Although this fabric good dimension stability, has had the distinctive pelvic bone sense of polo fabric, contact coldness effect is bad, and design parameter is in Table 2.
Comparative example 3
150D-48f-polyester DTY yarn is raw material, by two-sided tissue (accompanying drawing 1) braiding, forms grey cloth, and all the other form creeping chill fabric with embodiment 1.Creeping chill effect and the dimensional stability of this fabric are bad, and design parameter is in Table 2.
Claims (8)
1. a polo shirt creeping chill fabric, is characterized in that: this fabric for by more than 45 % by weight containing the composite yarn of regenerated celulose fibre and the knitted fabric that air deformation yarn or spun yarn were formed that is raw material with Fypro or polyester fiber of surplus; Described composite yarn is network yarn or air deformation yarn, make Fypro or the polyester fiber of heart yarn, 75～15 % by weight and make sheath yarn, and the ratio of the coil that forms of fabric reverse side composite yarn is more than 90% with the regenerated celulose fibre of 25～85 % by weight.
2. polo shirt creeping chill fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described regenerated celulose fibre is viscose filament yarn, cellulose acetate filament or cuprammonium long filament.
3. polo shirt creeping chill fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the filament length difference between described composite yarn mesotheca yarn and heart yarn is 3%～15%.
4. according to the polo shirt creeping chill fabric described in claim 1 or 3, it is characterized in that: the twist of described composite yarn is 0～1500T/M.
5. polo shirt creeping chill fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: this fabric is the round tricot of dual or two-sided tissue.
6. polo shirt creeping chill fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: this fabric through broadwise wash shrinkage rate, be-5%～0; Through broadwise dry-hot shrinkage, be-2%～2%.
7. polo shirt creeping chill fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: utilize the test of KES style instrument, the bending stiffness of this fabric is 0.05～0.1N.cm
2/ cm.
8. polo shirt creeping chill fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: utilize the test of KES style instrument, the contact coldness value of this fabric is more than 0.130.
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| CN201210381803.7A CN103720092A (en) | 2012-10-10 | 2012-10-10 | Cold feeling fabric for polo shirt |
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| CN201210381803.7A CN103720092A (en) | 2012-10-10 | 2012-10-10 | Cold feeling fabric for polo shirt |
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| CN106906560A (en) * | 2015-12-23 | 2017-06-30 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | A kind of knitting fabric of light weight creeping chill and application thereof |
| CN106048805A (en) * | 2016-08-03 | 2016-10-26 | 苏州普路通纺织有限公司 | Polyamide and viscose blended air vortex spun yarn |
| CN110284250A (en) * | 2019-06-19 | 2019-09-27 | 南通明富纺织品有限公司 | A kind of contact coldness fabric and preparation method thereof |
| CN112824568A (en) * | 2019-11-21 | 2021-05-21 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN112824568B (en) * | 2019-11-21 | 2024-02-02 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN114502784A (en) * | 2019-12-27 | 2022-05-13 | 可隆工业株式会社 | Polyethylene yarn, method for manufacturing the same, and skin cool fabric comprising the same |
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Application publication date: 20140416 |