CN103251527A - Cassiabarktree twig extract-containing whitening cosmetic preparation method - Google Patents
Cassiabarktree twig extract-containing whitening cosmetic preparation method Download PDFInfo
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- CN103251527A CN103251527A CN2013100524888A CN201310052488A CN103251527A CN 103251527 A CN103251527 A CN 103251527A CN 2013100524888 A CN2013100524888 A CN 2013100524888A CN 201310052488 A CN201310052488 A CN 201310052488A CN 103251527 A CN103251527 A CN 103251527A
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- QPHXPNUXTNHJOF-UHFFFAOYSA-N quercetin-7-O-beta-L-rhamnopyranoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(C)OC1OC1=CC(O)=C2C(=O)C(O)=C(C=3C=C(O)C(O)=CC=3)OC2=C1 QPHXPNUXTNHJOF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- OXGUCUVFOIWWQJ-HQBVPOQASA-N quercitrin Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](C)O[C@H]1OC1=C(C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)OC2=CC(O)=CC(O)=C2C1=O OXGUCUVFOIWWQJ-HQBVPOQASA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001054 red pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- USDOQCCMRDNVAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N sigma-cadinene Natural products C1C=C(C)CC2C(C(C)C)CC=C(C)C21 USDOQCCMRDNVAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000037075 skin appearance Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000036548 skin texture Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003384 small molecules Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000001954 sterilising effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004659 sterilization and disinfection Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003432 sterols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000003702 sterols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000000438 stratum basale Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 208000024891 symptom Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 208000011580 syndromic disease Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003867 tiredness Effects 0.000 description 1
- 208000016255 tiredness Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a cassiabarktree twig extract-containing whitening cosmetic preparation method, which comprises: 1, adopting ethanol to extract cassiabarktree twig, Chinese thorowax root, common macrocarpium fruit and rose to obtain an extract; 2, carrying out heating mixing melting on C18 alcohol, inositol hexaphosphate, glycerol and stearic acid, and adding tert-butylhydroquinone to dissolve to obtain an oil phase; 3, adding borax, glyceryl monostearate and refined water to the Chinese herbal extract, and mixing to obtain a water phase; and 4, adding the oil phase to the water phase, carrying out emulsification, and adding flavor to obtain the cosmetic with effects of whitening and spot removing. The cassiabarktree twig extract-containing whitening cosmetic has effects of skin metabolism improvement, skin blood circulation promotion, skin nutrition increase, effective free radical removal, pigmentation elimination, skin wrinkle and color spot fading, and delicate, smooth, white and flexible skin achievement.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to technical field of Chinese medicines, specifically refer to a kind of preparation method that contains the skin-lightening cosmetic of Ramulus Cinnamomi extract.
Background technology
Skin-whitening cosmetic is also referred to as freckle whitening makeup, classifies caused by cosmetics for special use as in China.Occupy considerable share in the skin-whitening cosmetic market, in recent years, along with the development of aesthetic medicine, skin-whitening cosmetic is subjected to the welcome of consumer very much always.
Skin is the important component part of human body, directly expresses the sign of health and aging especially.Vigorous when skin metabolism, blood circulation is unimpeded, and when nutritious, then skin exquisiteness, smooth, tender is rich in elasticity, and is not prone to wrinkle and mottle.When skin metabolism weakens, poor blood circulation, when nutrient substance was bad, then skin can become gloomy, old and feeble, and easily produced wrinkle and mottle.The principal element of decider's skin colour difference is carotene and melanin, and wherein melanin is most important.Melanin is synthetic in melanocyte, transfers to by the dendritic processes of melanocyte in the keratinocyte of adjacency.Melanocyte in the application on human skin is positioned at stratum basale, Rhizoma Imperatae portion and outer hair sheath etc., and a melanocyte is arranged in 7 ~ 8 basal cells approximately.Therefore, the distribution density of melanocyte does not have the ethnic group difference, and the people of the various colours of skin is basic identical, about 2,000,000,000 altogether of whole bodies.Under the normal condition, melanin can absorb excessive daylight light, particularly ultraviolet, the protection human body.Assemble, be deposited on epidermis as if the melanin metabolism in time that generates, then can make to occur freckle, chloasma or senile plaque etc. on the skin.It is generally acknowledged that melanic formation mechanism is that tyrosine synthesizes through tyrosinase catalysis in melanocyte.It is quite complicated that tyrosine is oxidized to melanic process, and ultraviolet can cause the enhancing of activity and the melanocyte activity of tryrosinase, because can promote this Oxidation.
Up to the present, using more widely, whitening agent mainly contains following several: ascorbic acid and derivant thereof, kojic acid and derivant thereof, hydroquinone and derivant thereof, а-hydroxy acid and derivant thereof, animal proteinum extract, Chinese herbal medicine extract and sunscreen.
Present cosmetics can't improve skin metabolism usually, promote cutaneous circulation, increase skin-nourishing, and the mottle that more can't remove the skin appearance makes skin exquisiteness, smooth, tender white and springiness.Therefore can not satisfy people to the whitening of skin of face, skin protection requirement that defying age removes speckle, to people the daily nursing of skin of face brought inconvenience.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of preparation method that contains the skin-lightening cosmetic of Ramulus Cinnamomi extract, the cosmetics that this method makes not only can improve skin metabolism, promote cutaneous circulation, increase skin-nourishing, and can remove skin splash, make skin tenderer white.
The present invention is achieved by the following technical solutions:
The preparation method that contains the skin-lightening cosmetic of Ramulus Cinnamomi extract is: the first step: carry out 80 orders after Ramulus Cinnamomi 10 weight portions, Radix Bupleuri 5 weight portions, Fructus Corni 2 weight portions, Flos Rosae Rugosae 2 weight portion mix homogeneously are pulverized and sieve, add 500 weight portion mass concentrations then and be 85% ~ 90% ethanol, after soaking 24 hours under 25 ℃ of conditions, carried out the low temperature ultrasonic extraction 2 hours, go that supernatant is centrifugal, filtration, backflow ethanol, behind secondary filter, namely get Chinese herbal medicine extract; Second goes on foot: after C18 alcohol 1.5 weight portions, inositol hexaphosphate 0.5 weight portion, glycerol 6 weight portions, stearic acid 12 weight portions are heated to 75 ℃ ~ 85 ℃ consolutes, add tertiarybutylhydroquinone 0.02 weight portion, get oil phase after the dissolving; The 3rd step: described Chinese herbal medicine extract 3 weight portions adding Borax 3 weight portions, glycerol single-hard ester acid ester 2 weight portions, Purified Water 60 weight portions are got water after mixing; The 4th step: with the described aqueous phase emulsifying of 70 ℃ of described oil phase addings, treat to add essence when temperature is down to 40 ℃ ~ 50 ℃, namely get the cosmetics of described Pear Power spot-removal function.
Wherein, Ramulus Cinnamomi contains volatile oil 0.69%, and main component is cinnamic aldehyde 64.75% in the oil, also has benzyl benzoate, cinnamyl acetate, β-cadinene, Chang Pu alkene, coumarin etc.Textual criticism: come from Tang Materia Medica." book on Chinese herbal medicine is not mentionleted alone ": Zhong Jing treatise on Febrile Diseases diaphoresis Ramulus Cinnamomi.The Ramulus Cinnamomi person, branch, non-body is done also.It is frivolous and can disperse to get it.The present has a kind of Liu Gui again, be the tender small stems in osmanthus also, it is outstanding that pleasant to control the part of the body cavity above the diaphragm housing the heart and lungs also medicinal.Effect with expelling cold and relieving exterior syndrome, promoting the flow of QI-blood by warming the meridian, activating YANG and prormoting functioning of QI.Cosmetic result is excellent, can remove free radical effectively, eliminates pigmentation, makes us calling out pastiness spring vigor.
Its composition of Radix Bupleuri Radix Bupleuri mainly contains saikoside, sterol, volatile oil (bupleurumol, eugenol etc.), fatty acid (oleic acid, linoleic acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid etc.) and polysaccharide etc.Also contain compositions such as flavone, polyhydric alcohol, coumarin and trace element.Meridian distribution of property and flavor: cold nature, bitter in the mouth, suffering, return Liver Channel, gallbladder meridian, the tool depressed liver-energy dispersing and function of gallbladder promoting, dredge the gas resolving depression, effect of fire looses.Function: expelling pathogenic factors from the exterior expels the heat-evil, dispersing the stagnated live-QI to relieve the stagnation of QI, elevate a turnable ladder yang-energy.
Fructus Corni contains effective ingredient such as the stronger cornin of physiologically active, tartaric acid, gallic acid, malic acid, resin, tannin and multivitamin, has to strengthen immunity, antiinflammatory, pharmacological action such as antibiotic, and be the Herba indigoferae Pseudotinctoriae of using always in the tcm clinical practice.
Flos Rosae Rugosae contains volatile oil (Oleum Rosae Rugosae), is mainly citronellol, nerol, eugenol, phenethanol, nonyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, linalool, phenethyl acetate, and composition such as quercitrin, amaroid, tannin, gallic acid, carotene, red pigment.Have strong liver and nourishing stomach, promoting blood flow to regulate menstruation, loosening bowel to relieve constipation, the effect of resolving stagnation for tranquilization can chill out, balance endocrine, the gas of enriching blood, liver and stomach be had the effect of conditioning, the emotion of releiving and anti-inflammation and sterilization, allaying tiredness arranged, improve body constitution, the effect of moist skin.
Contain by Ramulus Cinnamomi in the cosmetic composition of the present invention; Radix Bupleuri; Fructus Corni; the various plants active ingredient of Chinese herbal medicine extracting such as Flos Rosae Rugosae; has very strong antioxidation; and be small-molecule substance; easier infiltration skin and being absorbed by skin; not only can improve skin metabolism; promote cutaneous circulation; increase skin-nourishing; and can remove free radical effectively; eliminate pigementation; wrinkle and mottle that desalination skin occurs; make skin finer and smoother; smooth; tender white and springiness; can satisfy people's whitening to skin of face easily; the defying age wrinkle removing goes the daily skin protection requirement of speckle, is a kind of novelty and the Chinese herbal medicine cosmetics that show unique characteristics.
Clinical practice shows, the biosynthesis that the cosmetics that contain Ramulus Cinnamomi extract of the present invention can restraint of tyrosinase comprises the activity of restraint of tyrosinase, the intermediate that disturbs melanin to generate; Can play reduction to melanin, prevent photooxidation, degraded horn cell black plasmid; Can promote melanic metabolism, prevent melanin deposition, melanin is excreted rapidly; Prevent ultraviolet entering, prevent because ultraviolet forms too much melanin, thereby skin is played the effect of whitening and speckle dispelling.
The specific embodiment:
The present invention is further illustrated below in conjunction with embodiment and case.
Embodiment 1
The first step: accurately take by weighing Ramulus Cinnamomi 10kg, Radix Bupleuri 5kg, Fructus Corni 2kg, Flos Rosae Rugosae 2kg, carrying out 80 orders after mix homogeneously is pulverized sieves, add the 500kg mass concentration then and be 85% ethanol, after soaking 24 hours under 25 ℃ of conditions, carried out the low temperature ultrasonic extraction 2 hours, go that supernatant is centrifugal, filtration, backflow ethanol, behind secondary filter, namely get Chinese herbal medicine extract; Second goes on foot: after C18 alcohol 1.5kg, inositol hexaphosphate 0.5kg, glycerol 6kg, stearic acid 12kg are heated to 75 ℃ of consolutes, add tertiarybutylhydroquinone 0.02kg, get oil phase after the dissolving; The 3rd step: described Chinese herbal medicine extract 3kg adding Borax 3kg, glycerol single-hard ester acid ester 2kg, Purified Water 60kg are got water after mixing; The 4th step: with the described aqueous phase emulsifying of 70 ℃ of described oil phase addings, treat to add essence when temperature is down to 40 ℃, namely get the cosmetics of described Magnesium Ascorbylphosphate.
Embodiment 2
The first step: accurately take by weighing Ramulus Cinnamomi 10kg, Radix Bupleuri 5kg, Fructus Corni 2kg, Flos Rosae Rugosae 2kg, carrying out 80 orders after mix homogeneously is pulverized sieves, add the 500kg mass concentration then and be 90% ethanol, after soaking 24 hours under 25 ℃ of conditions, carried out the low temperature ultrasonic extraction 2 hours, go that supernatant is centrifugal, filtration, backflow ethanol, behind secondary filter, namely get Chinese herbal medicine extract; Second goes on foot: after C18 alcohol 1.5 kg, inositol hexaphosphate 0.5 kg, glycerol 6kg, stearic acid 12kg are heated to 85 ℃ of consolutes, add tertiarybutylhydroquinone 0.02kg, get oil phase after the dissolving; The 3rd step: described Chinese herbal medicine extract 3kg adding Borax 3kg, glycerol single-hard ester acid ester 2kg, Purified Water 60kg are got water after mixing; The 4th step: with the described aqueous phase emulsifying of 70 ℃ of described oil phase addings, treat to add essence when temperature is down to 50 ℃, namely get the cosmetics of described Magnesium Ascorbylphosphate.
Embodiment 3
The first step: accurately take by weighing Ramulus Cinnamomi 10kg, Radix Bupleuri 5kg, Fructus Corni 2kg, Flos Rosae Rugosae 2kg, carrying out 80 orders after mix homogeneously is pulverized sieves, add 500kg concentration then and be 85% ethanol, after soaking 24 hours under 25 ℃ of conditions, carried out the low temperature ultrasonic extraction 2 hours, go that supernatant is centrifugal, filtration, backflow ethanol, behind secondary filter, namely get Chinese herbal medicine extract; Second goes on foot: after C18 alcohol 1.5kg, inositol hexaphosphate 0.5kg, glycerol 6kg, stearic acid 12kg are heated to 85 ℃ of consolutes, add tertiarybutylhydroquinone 0.02kg, get oil phase after the dissolving; The 3rd step: described Chinese herbal medicine extract 3kg adding Borax 3kg, glycerol single-hard ester acid ester 2kg, Purified Water 60kg are got water after mixing; The 4th step: with the described aqueous phase emulsifying of 70 ℃ of described oil phase addings, treat to add essence when temperature is down to 45 ℃, namely get the cosmetics of described Magnesium Ascorbylphosphate.
Embodiment 4
The first step: accurately take by weighing Ramulus Cinnamomi 10kg, Radix Bupleuri 5kg, Fructus Corni 2kg, Flos Rosae Rugosae 2kg, carrying out 80 orders after mix homogeneously is pulverized sieves, add 500kg concentration then and be 87% ethanol, after soaking 24 hours under 25 ℃ of conditions, carried out the low temperature ultrasonic extraction 2 hours, go that supernatant is centrifugal, filtration, backflow ethanol, behind secondary filter, namely get Chinese herbal medicine extract; Second goes on foot: after C18 alcohol 1.5kg, inositol hexaphosphate 0.5kg, glycerol 6kg, stearic acid 12kg are heated to 80 ℃ of consolutes, add tertiarybutylhydroquinone 0.02kg, get oil phase after the dissolving; The 3rd step: described Chinese herbal medicine extract 3kg adding Borax 3kg, glycerol single-hard ester acid ester 2kg, Purified Water 60kg are got water after mixing; The 4th step: with the described aqueous phase emulsifying of 70 ℃ of described oil phase addings, treat to add essence when temperature is down to 47 ℃, namely get the cosmetics of described Magnesium Ascorbylphosphate.
Human body is whitened, and test--melanin content reduces:
Mensuration is tried before the position can not use any product (cosmetics or topical drug) in 2-3 days.Before the test, the experimenter need unify to clean both hands forearm inboard, with the medicated napkin wiped clean of doing.The measured zone labelling is carried out in experimenter's both hands forearm inboard in the cleaning back.The 30min at least that should sit quietly in standard compliant room before the official testing, forearm exposes, and is test mode and places, and keeps loosening.
The inboard labelling 4 * 4cm2 of right-hand man's forearm pilot region in the experiment, same arm can be with a plurality of zones of tense marker, and be interregional every 2cm.Test products (extracting solution of variable concentrations) and blank all are randomly dispersed on the arm of the left and right sides.Use dermal melanin and haemachrome tester to be tried the measurement of zone and control zone, each zone is according to parallel assay 5 times.Measure the blank value of each test zone earlier, then by the consumption of 2.0 ± 0.1mg sample/cm2, use latex finger cot that sample is evenly coated in the trial zone.Measure 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks, 4 weeks after smearing respectively, tried the dermal melanin content in zone and blank zone.Same volunteer's test is finished by same survey crew.
The experimental result of the embodiment of the invention 1 ~ 4: along with the prolongation of Measuring Time, the melanin content reduction also increases gradually, and the active component of whitening of the cosmetics that this explanation embodiment of the invention 1 ~ 4 makes continues the melanin minimizing of skin is worked.
Clinical experiment of the present invention and result:
Experimental technique: select age bracket at 35 years old to 60 years old volunteer, 50 of male volunteers, 50 of women volunteers.
Cardinal symptom: freckle, chloasma, sun speckle, the colour of skin are obscure.Volunteer is divided into two groups at random, every group of 50 people.
Test group: after clean of every day, the facial film with embodiment 4 preparations before sleeping spreads on the 20～30min of face, gets final product with warm water cleaning, does not apply other skin care item.2～3 times weekly, one month experimental period.
Matched group: after clean of every day, apply commercially available cleawhite pack 20～30min at facial skin before sleeping, get final product with warm water cleaning, do not apply other skin care item.2～3 times weekly, one month experimental period.
3 days, 7 days, 1 month each statistics once.
Evaluation criterion: by patient's readme impression, and computer comparison skin texture figure identifies the colour of skin whiten degree and mottle desalination degree.Effectively: the colour of skin is carried bright, the mottle color dodge.Invalid: no any variation before the colour of skin and mottle and the experiment.
Result on trial: this product had the whitening effect that obviously is better than the commercially available prod in 3 days, effective 42 examples of test group, effective percentage 84%.Effective 16 examples of matched group, effective percentage 32%.Use after 30 days, the test group effective percentage reaches 100%, and can also obviously increase the glossiness of skin, and the skin exquisiteness is mellow and full.There is not an example reaction phenomenons such as allergy, skin discomfort to occur.Matched group only is 56%.
Claims (1)
1. the preparation method that contains the skin-lightening cosmetic of Ramulus Cinnamomi extract, it is characterized in that: the first step: carry out 80 orders after Ramulus Cinnamomi 10 weight portions, Radix Bupleuri 5 weight portions, Fructus Corni 2 weight portions, Flos Rosae Rugosae 2 weight portion mix homogeneously are pulverized and sieve, add 500 weight portion mass concentrations then and be 85% ~ 90% ethanol, after soaking 24 hours under 25 ℃ of conditions, carried out the low temperature ultrasonic extraction 2 hours, go that supernatant is centrifugal, filtration, backflow ethanol, behind secondary filter, namely get Chinese herbal medicine extract; Second goes on foot: after C18 alcohol 1.5 weight portions, inositol hexaphosphate 0.5 weight portion, glycerol 6 weight portions, stearic acid 12 weight portions are heated to 75 ℃ ~ 85 ℃ consolutes, add tertiarybutylhydroquinone 0.02 weight portion, get oil phase after the dissolving; The 3rd step: described Chinese herbal medicine extract 3 weight portions adding Borax 3 weight portions, glycerol single-hard ester acid ester 2 weight portions, Purified Water 60 weight portions are got water after mixing; The 4th step: with the described aqueous phase emulsifying of 70 ℃ of described oil phase addings, treat to add essence when temperature is down to 40 ℃ ~ 50 ℃, namely get the cosmetics of described Pear Power spot-removal function.
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