CN102421483B - Comprise the cosmetic composition of dyestuff, described dyestuff and cosmetic treatment method - Google Patents
Comprise the cosmetic composition of dyestuff, described dyestuff and cosmetic treatment method Download PDFInfo
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- CN102421483B CN102421483B CN201080020452.6A CN201080020452A CN102421483B CN 102421483 B CN102421483 B CN 102421483B CN 201080020452 A CN201080020452 A CN 201080020452A CN 102421483 B CN102421483 B CN 102421483B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
- A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08K—Use of inorganic or non-macromolecular organic substances as compounding ingredients
- C08K5/00—Use of organic ingredients
- C08K5/0008—Organic ingredients according to more than one of the "one dot" groups of C08K5/01 - C08K5/59
- C08K5/0041—Optical brightening agents, organic pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
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Abstract
The present invention relates to cosmetic composition, it is in cosmetically acceptable medium, comprise the dyestuff containing Biopolvester and colouring cpd, described Biopolvester contained (I) repetitive, and described colouring cpd is selected from fat-soluble stain and water solublity stain, inorganic pigment or organic pigment. The method that the invention still further relates to the cosmetic treatment of described dyestuff itself and keratin substances, the method includes using described make-up composition.
Description
The present invention relates to the cosmetic composition comprising new dye, described dyestuff and use their cosmetic treatment method.
Make-up composition generally comprises dyestuff, and such as pigment or stain, it provides desired color for the cosmetics used. The number of the dyestuff that can use in cosmetics is restricted especially, particularly because they must be registered on formal provision list (listesr �� glementairespositives), they are different according to economic zone (Europe, the U.S., Japan).
Therefore the dyestuff allowed for increases than color range will be major advantage, if more such when they are the dyestuffs of natural origin.
And, it is known that some dyestuff, such as water solublity stain, can have the tendency of outflow (d �� gorger) in some cases, this is passable, such as in cosmetic composition (such as lipstick or nial polish) situation, cause " claw-like stricture of vagina (griffe) " on lip or fingernail, and the quality impairment of cosmetics.
The purpose of the present invention is to propose to the new dye that can be used for that in cosmetics, not there is the shortcoming of prior art.
Have been found that surprisingly and can obtain the dyestuff with scalable colorimetric properties with Biopolvester encapsulating or coating colouring cpd; Especially, the adjustment (E) of tone can be relevant with the preparation method of encapsulating/coating degree and/or use.
On the other hand, in the dyestuff of the present invention, water solublity or lipophilic stain can fully be fixed, it means that their outflow is limited especially.
Therefore, one theme of the present invention is cosmetic composition, it comprises at least one dyestuff comprising Biopolvester and colouring cpd in cosmetically acceptable medium, described Biopolvester comprises formula as defined below (I) repetitive and described colouring cpd selected from fat-soluble stain, water solublity stain, or inorganic or organic pigment (undissolved) and their mixture.
Another theme of the present invention is this dyestuff itself.
Dyestuff according to the present invention can have the very different colour gamut in visible ray Zhong He UV district, its preparation method being likely to the character with colouring cpd, its concentration and/or use is relevant, this allows in a particularly advantageous manner at cosmetic composition, especially uses them in cosmetic composition.
It is particularly noteworthy and favourable, this is owing to these dyestuffs can have almost identical basis composition, namely based on Biopolvester, this allows to simplify they uses in cosmetic composition, described dyestuff is easily interchangeable under in identical basis composition, therefore can avoid the character making every kind of compositions adapt to every kind of dyestuff.
Dyestuff according to the present invention also has the advantage not flowed out in ordinary cosmetics medium, and no matter whether they comprise the common oil based on carbon or silicone oil.
And, dyestuff advantageously provides excellent covering.
In the preparation according to the dyestuff of the present invention, operable Biopolvester is preferably the polyester of natural origin or from the polyester of living resources.
The repetitive of they contained (I):
Wherein:
-R is the C1-C18 saturated alkyl chain of straight or branched, or hydrogen atom; With
-n is 450-1400.
Preferably, R is selected from hydrogen, methyl and ethyl.
Biopolvester according to the present invention can be preferred that homopolymer or the copolymer of only contained (I) monomer.
They can also is that the copolymer also comprising other monomer except formula (I) monomer.
In other monomer, it is possible to mention the monomer of formula (I'):
Wherein:
-R' is the C1-C18 saturated alkyl chain of straight or branched, or hydrogen atom; With
-m is 450-1400.
Preferably, R' is selected from hydrogen, methyl and ethyl, R'=methyl (lactic acid) better.
As other monomer, it is also possible to mention the ethylenically unsaturated monomers being generally used in cosmetics, such as vinyl monomer, especially (methyl) acrylic monomer.
Preferably, according in the Biopolvester of the present invention, formula (I) monomer accounts for the 30-100 weight % of the gross weight of Biopolvester, especially 40-95 weight %, even 55-90 weight %, better 70-80 weight %.
Therefore other monomer can be non-existent (0%) or can with 0.1-70 weight %, especially 5-60 weight %, even 10-45 weight %, and the ratio of 20-30 weight % exists better.
As operable Biopolvester, it is possible to mention, individually or as mixture:
-poly-(alkanoate) homopolymer or copolymer, poly-(butyric ester) homopolymer or copolymer especially, especially (butyric ester) or PHB, the poly-hydroxyl valerate of poly butyric ester-co-or PHBV, the poly-hydroxycaproic ester of poly butyric ester-co-or PHBHx, poly butyric ester-co-gathers Hydroxycaprylic acid ester or PHBO, and poly butyric ester-co-gathers hydroxyoctadecanoic acid esters or PHBOd.
This poly-(alkanoate) especially can comprise following repetitive, individually or as mixture:
-poly-(alkanoate)-poly-(lactic acid) copolymer, it includes at least following repetitive:
��
Preferably, there is the weight average molecular weight (Mw) (i.e. 40-100kDa) of 40000-100000g/mol according to the Biopolvester of the present invention.
The mixture of biopolymer can be used within the scope of this invention significantly.
As selling product, it can be mentioned:
The polymer of-(PHB, PHBV) type: the Biopol from Monsanto, the Metabolix from Metabolix, the Enmat from Tianan, the Biocycle from Copersucar, BiomerL from Biomer,
The polymer of-(PHBHx, PHBO, PHBOd) type: from the Nodax of Procter&Gamble.
Can be used to the colouring cpd prepared according to the dyestuff of the present invention and can be selected from fat-soluble stain, water solublity stain or inorganic or organic pigment (insoluble). The mixture of colouring cpd can be used.
Operable stain is preferably chosen from following kind in the present invention, individually or as mixture:
-curcumin kind, it especially comprises curcumin, Rhizoma Curcumae Longae, curry (curry), Stigma Croci and their extract;
-riboflavin kind, it especially comprises riboflavin (or vitamin B2) and its derivant;
-porphyrin kind, it especially includes chlorophyll, CHLOROPHYLLINE and their derivant, especially their copper complex;
-pigment type, it especially includes Linesless charcoal (CI food black 3);
-carotenoid kind, it especially includes carotene and phylloxanthin; Beta-carotene, phylloxanthin, canthaxanthin, lycopene, apocarotenals (��-apo--8-carotenal), annatto, bixin, norbixin, roucou (rocou) and cryptoxanthin can be mentioned especially;
-beet red pigment (b �� tala nes) class, it includes betanin and beet red (beetrootred);
-anthocyanidin (anthocyanes) class, it especially includes fruit of Ramulus Sambuci Williamsii pigment (elderberry);
-isoindigo red (isotines) class, it includes indigoid, especially indigo (indigo), indirubin, indigo (indigotine), halo indigoid type, as indigo in dichloro-, two bromos are indigo, thioindigo and indigo acetate;
-Polyphenols, it especially includes kaoliang color (sorgho) (or Sorghum vulgare Pers. extract);
-alizarin class, it especially includes carminic acid (acidecarminique);
-azorubine (or light red); Amaranth (or Azorubin S);
-capsanthin (or capsorubin or red respectful green pepper pigment (paprika) or Fructus Capsici extract);
-caramel (water solublity stain) and its derivant.
In operable preferred colouring cpd, it is possible to mention, individually or as mixture:
-curcumin (fat-soluble pigment):
-riboflavin (water solublity stain):
-azorubine (water solublity stain):
-amaranth (water solublity stain):
-chlorophyll (organic-dissolvable pigment):
-lycopene (terpenes dyestuff):
-anthocyanidin (watersoluble pigment):
Wherein R, it can be same or different, represents H, OH or Ome; Especially following compound can be mentioned: pelargonidin (R1=R3=H, R2=OH), anthocyanidin (R1=R2=OH, R3=H), delphinidin (R1=R2=R3=OH); Peonidin (R1=OCH3, R2=OH, R3=H); 3'-first delphinidin (R1=R2=OH, R3=OCH3); Enidin (R1=R3=OCH3, R2=OH).
-carminic acid (watersoluble pigment):
-indigo:
-following carotenoid:
-bixin:
-norbixin:
-betanin (watersoluble pigment):
-canthaxanthin:
��
The most particularly preferred colouring cpd is selected from carotenoid, anthocyanidin, betanin, caramel and annatto (bixin, norbixin).
Dyestuff according to the present invention is preferably powder type (solid) or the dispersion in moisture and/or organic solvent.
They preferably comprise the colouring cpd of the Biopolvester of 40-95 weight % and 5-60 weight %. Preferably, they comprise 50-90 weight %, even the Biopolvester of 55-85 weight % and 10-50 weight %, the even colouring cpd of 15-45 weight %; They can also comprise additive, solvent etc., for instance Already in those in this colouring cpd.
Preferably, in the dyestuff of the present invention, the weight ratio between colouring cpd and Biopolvester is preferably 0.05-1.2; Especially 0.1-1.0, and better 0.2-0.8; Preferably 0.45-0.8.
When biopolymer includes formula (I') repetitive, wherein R=methyl (i.e. polylactic acid), at this moment this weight ratio is preferably 0.45-1.2, even 0.5-1.0, better 0.5-0.8.
Dyestuff according to the present invention can obtain via various methods. Especially can mention emulsifying/solvent evaporation process, comprise the following steps:
-make Biopolvester be dissolved in applicable solvent, especially in dichloromethane and/or ethyl acetate;
-optionally, make colouring cpd dissolve or be dispersed in applicable solvent, especially in water and/or dichloromethane;
-at applicable surfactant, when especially sodium lauryl sulfate or polyglycereol-4 distearate/poly-hydroxy stearic acid ester/sebacate exist, mix and formed Water-In-Oil or oil-in-water emulsion;
-evaporation solvent;
This dyestuff therefore can with dispersion (powder disperses in a solvent) form or with the acquisition of powder (dried powder, when all of solvent is evaporated) form.
Via melted/breaking method preparation dyestuff according to the present invention, can also comprise the following steps:
-Biopolvester is heated above their temperature of fusing point, in order to make they flowings so that them can be made to mix with colouring cpd;
-add former state or be distributed/dissolved in the colouring cpd being suitable in solvent;
-mixing, for instance use blender or extruder;
-it is cooled to room temperature (20-25 DEG C);
-grind, for instance use cryogenic mill (cryobroyeur);
This dyestuff therefore can with dispersion (powder disperse in a solvent) form or more preferably obtain in powder form.
Dyestuff according to the present invention may be advantageously used with in cosmetic field.
They can relative to the gross weight of cosmetic composition with 0.1-30 weight %, and especially 0.5-25 weight %, even 1-20 weight %, it is preferable that 3-15 weight %, 5-10 weight % ratio is present in cosmetic composition better.
And described cosmetic composition includes cosmetically acceptable medium, namely compatible with skin histology (such as face or body skin) and keratin substances (such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrow and fingernail) medium.
According to the application intended, therefore said composition can comprise the component common for this type of composition.
Compositions according to the present invention can advantageously comprise liquid aliphatic phase, it can include at least one selected from following compound: volatility or the nonvolatile oil based on carbon, mineral based on hydrocarbon, fluorine-containing and/or siliceous, animal, plant or synthesis source and/or solvent, individually or as mixture, as long as they form stable, homogeneous mixture and compatible with the purposes intended.
For the purpose of the present invention, term " volatile " represents any compound that at room temperature (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atmospheric pressure) and keratin substances or lip contact can evaporate in lower than 1 hour. Especially, this volatile compound at room temperature especially has non-zero vapor pressure with under atmospheric pressure, especially 0.13Pa-40000Pa (10-3To 300mmHg).
On the contrary, term " nonvolatile " refers to keep on keratin substances or lip at room temperature and pressure the compound of at least one hour, and it has especially lower than 10-3The vapour pressure of mmHg (0.13Pa).
Preferably, can include according to the cosmetically acceptable medium of the compositions of the present invention, liquid aliphatic mutually in, at least one oil and/or solvent, they can be selected from, individually or as mixture:
The ester of 1/ monocarboxylic acid and monohydric alcohol and polyhydric alcohol; Advantageously, described ester is benzoic acid C12-C15 Arrcostab or corresponds to below formula: R'1-COO-R'2, wherein:
R'1Represent 1-40 carbon atom, the preferably straight or branched alkyl of 7-19 carbon atom, it optionally includes one or more olefinic double bond, and it is optionally replaced, and its hydrocarbyl chain can between be separated with one or more hetero atom selected from N and O and/or one or more carbonyl functional group, and
R'2Represent 1-40 carbon atom, preferably 3-30 carbon atom, the straight or branched alkyl of 3-20 carbon atom better, it optionally includes one or more olefinic double bond, optionally replaced, and its hydrocarbyl chain can between be separated with one or more hetero atom selected from N and O and/or one or more carbonyl functional group.
Term " optionally superseded " represents R'1And/or R'2Can carrying one or more substituent group, it is selected from comprising one or more heteroatomic group selected from O and/or N, such as amino, amine, alkoxyl or hydroxyl.
Group R'1Example be derived from those of fatty acid, it is preferable that selected from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, caproic acid, sad, n-nonanoic acid, capric acid, hendecanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, mountain?Acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, linoleic acid, eleostearic acid (acidol �� ost �� arique), arachidonic acid and erucic acid, and the higher fatty acids of its mixture.
Preferably, R'1It is unsubstituted 4-14 carbon atom, it is preferable that the branched alkyl of 8-10 carbon atom and R'2It it is the branched alkyl of unsubstituted 5-15 carbon atom and preferably 9-11 carbon atom. Especially it can be mentioned that preferably, C8-C48Ester, optionally includes one or more hetero atom from N and O and/or one or more carbonyl functional group at their hydrocarbyl chain; More particularly purcellin oil (sad 16 stearyl), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Palmic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, stearic acid 2-octyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl eruciate (�� rucateded ' octyl-2-dod �� cyle), isostearic acid iso stearyl ester, benzoic acid C12-C15Alcohol ester, lauric acid hexyl ester, adipic acid diisopropyl ester; With alcohol or polyhydric alcohol (such as fatty alcohol, such as two sad propylene glycol esters) heptanoate, caprylate, decanoin or ricinoleate ester, and N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester (particularly to from Eldew-205SL of Ajinomoto); Hydroxylating ester, such as lactic acid iso stearyl ester, malic acid two iso stearyl ester; And pentaerythritol ester; Side chain C8-C16 ester, especially isohexyl neopentanoate base ester.
2/ vegetable oil based on hydrocarbon with high triglyceride (being made up of fatty acid glycerine ester) content, its fatty acid can have C4-C24Different chain length degree, these chains are probably straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, these oil wheat germ oil in particular, Semen Maydis oil, Oleum helianthi, galam butter, Oleum Ricini, Semen pruni armeniacae oil, macadamia oil, almond oil, Oleum Glycines, Oleum Brassicae campestris, Oleum Gossypii semen, Herba Medicaginis oil, seed of Papaver somniferum L. powder, squash oil, Oleum sesami, calaba oil, American Avocado Tree oil, hazelnut oil, Semen Vitis viniferae oil, Ribes nigrum L. nut oil, Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil, millet oil, big wheat oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye-seed oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, Jojoba oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil or beauty's leaf oil, or caprylic/capric triglyceride, as by those of StearinerieDubois Company, or by DynamitNobel company with title Miglyol810?, 812?With 818?Those sale.
3/C6-C32, especially C12-C26 alcohol, especially monohydric alcohol, for instance oleyl alcohol, sub-oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isooctadecane alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyl capryl alcohol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and octyldodecanol.
The straight or branched of 4/ synthesis or mineral origin, volatility or the nonvolatile oil based on hydrocarbon, it can be selected from the oil based on hydrocarbon comprising 5-100 carbon atom, vaseline especially, poly decene, Parleam is Parl �� am such as, squalane and perhydro Squalene, and its mixture.
More particularly can mention straight chain, side chain and/or ring-type C5-C48 alkane, it is preferable that the C8-C16 alkane of side chain, for instance the C8-C16 isoalkane (also referred to as isoparaffin) of petroleum resources; Decane, heptane, dodecane and hexamethylene especially; And Fancol ID, isodecane and 2-Methylpentadecane.
5/ volatility or non-volatile silicone oil.
As volatile silicone oils, it can be mentioned volatile straight chain or cyclic silicone oils, having the viscosity lower than 8 centistokes especially, and particularly comprise 2-10 silicon atom those, these silicone optionally comprise the alkyl or alkoxyl with 1-22 carbon atom; Octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic ring six siloxanes, seven methylhexyl trisiloxanes, seven Methyl Octyl trisiloxanes, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, ten dimethyl five siloxanes and methylhexyl dimethyl siloxane especially, and its mixture.
According to the operable non-volatile silicone oil of the present invention can be dimethione (PDMS), comprise alkyl or alkoxyl (it is pendant groups and/or at silicone chains end, each comprise 2-24 carbon atom) polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl-trimethylsilicane oxygen base diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and trimethyl silicane alcoxyl base silicic acid 2-phenylethylester.
This liquid aliphatic can also include other oil and/or solvent mutually, and it can be selected from, individually or as mixture:
-containing fluorocarbon oil, such as PFPE, perfluoroparaffin, such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorinated adamantane, perfluoroalkyl phosphate monoesters, diester and three esters, and fluorinated ester oils;
The oils of-animal origin;
-C6-C40, C especially10-C40Ether; It is at room temperature the propylene glycol of liquid, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether acetate, dipropylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether;
-C8-C32Fatty acid, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid plus linolenic acid and its mixture;
-difunctional oils, comprises two and selected from the functional group of ester and/or amide and comprises 6-30 carbon atom, 8-28 carbon atom especially, better 10-24 carbon atom, 4 hetero atoms selected from O and N; Preferably amide and ester functional group are in chain;
-at room temperature (25 DEG C) be the ketone of liquid, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl iso-butyl ketone (MIBK), diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, Ketohexamethylene and acetone;
-it is at room temperature the aldehyde of liquid, such as benzaldehyde and acetaldehyde.
This liquid aliphatic can account for the 1-90 weight % of said composition mutually, and 5-75 weight % especially, especially 10-60 weight %, even 25-55 weight %, relative to the gross weight of said composition.
Compositions according to the present invention can also include the wax at least one plant, animal, mineral or synthesis source or silicone wax.
Especially it can be mentioned that individually or as mixture, alkyl wax, such as Cera Flava; Brazil wax, candelilla wax, coronule Brazil wax (cired ' Ouricoury), Japan wax, cork fibrous wax (ciresdefibresdelieges) or sugarcane wax; Paraffin, lignite wax; Microwax; Lanolin wax, lignite wax (ciredeMontan); Ceresine; Tissuemat E; The wax obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; Hydrogenated oil and fat, fatty acid ester and be the glyceride of solid at 25 DEG C. Silicone wax can also be used, alkyl or alkoxyl polymethyl siloxane and/or polymethyl siloxane ester can be mentioned wherein.
Compositions according to the present invention can also comprise the dyestuff that one or more are other, and it can be selected from powder compound, such as pigment, filler, Concha Margaritifera and diamante and/or fat-soluble or water solublity stain.
Dyestuff, especially powder dye, it is possible to relative to the weight of said composition with 0.01-50 weight %, it is preferable that 0.1-40 weight %, even the content of 1-30 weight % is present in compositions.
Term " pigment " should be understood that the white representing any shape or coloured, inorganic or organic granular, and it is not dissolved in Physiological Medium, and is used for painted said composition.
Term " Concha Margaritifera " should be understood that the iris granule representing any shape, is produced by some Mollusca especially, or synthesize in their shell.
Pigment can be white or coloured, inorganic and/or organic, interference or non-interfering pigment. In inorganic pigment, it can be mentioned titanium dioxide, it optionally carries out surface treatment, zirconium oxide or ceria, and iron oxides or chromated oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromic oxide gel and barba hispanica (bleuferrique). In organic pigment, it can be mentioned white carbon black, D&C type of pigment and based on cochineal (carmindecochenille) or based on barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum color lake.
Pearlescent pigment can be selected from white pearlescent pigment, as scribbled titanium or scribbling the Muscovitum of bismuth oxychloride, color pearly pigment, as there is the odenite of iron oxides, there is the odenite of barba hispanica or chromium oxide especially, there is the odenite of the above-mentioned type organic pigment and the pearlescent pigment based on bismuth oxychloride.
Filler can be inorganic or organic, stratiform or spherical. Talcum can be mentioned, Muscovitum, silicon dioxide, Kaolin, nylon powder and polyethylene powders, poly-Beta-alanine powder and polyethylene powders, T �� flon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, tiny balloon, such as Expancel (NobelIndustrie), Polytrap (DowCorning) and the micro-bead-like body of silicone resin (such as from the Tospearls of Toshiba), winnofil, magnesium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (SilicaBeads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, with derived from containing 8-22 carbon atom, the preferably metallic soap of the organic carboxyl acid of 12-18 carbon atom, such as zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt or magnesium myristate.
Fat-soluble stain is such as tonyred, DCRed17, DCGreen6, beta-carotene, soybean oil, sudan brown, DCYellow11, DCViolet2, DCOrange5 and D C Yellow No. 10. They can account for the 0.01-20% of composition weight, better 0.1-6%.
This water solublity stain is such as beet root juice or methylene blue, and can account for the 0.01-6% of composition total weight.
Said composition can also comprise other composition being generally used in cosmetic composition, and it can be selected from thickening agent, gellant, antioxidant, spice, quintessence oil, preservative, active cosmetic agent, wetting agent, vitamin, ceramide, sunscreen, spreading agent, wetting agent, dispersant, defoamer, nertralizer, stabilizer, polymer, especially film-forming liposoluble polymer; Surfactant, emulsifying agent; Filler, and mixture.
Certainly, those skilled in the art is by this for attentional selection or that these are optional supplementary compound, and/or its amount so that be not subject to according to the favorable property of the compositions of the present invention, or is not substantially affected by contemplated addition impact.
Compositions according to the present invention can be any acceptable for cosmetic composition and be common form, is suspension, dispersion especially, especially by means of the oil in water dispersion of vesicle (v �� sicules); The optionally organic or oily solution of the even gelatine of thickening; Oil-in-water, Water-In-Oil or many heavy emulsion; Gel or foam; Oil or emulsified gel; Vesicle dispersions, especially lipid vesicle; Biphase or heterogeneous washing liquid; Spraying; Washing liquid, frost, ointment, pulpiness thing, ointment, casting or molded solid, be rod or dish (coupelle) form especially, or compacting solid.
By considering the character of component used, the application of they dissolubility in the carrier and plan especially, those skilled in the art can based on the suitable galenical form of its general knowledge-chosen, and the method preparing it.
Compositions according to the present invention may be used for nursing or cosmetic keratin substances, such as hair, health or facial skin, eyelashes, eyebrow, fingernail, lip, particularly for the cosmetic of lip, eyelashes, hair and/or face.
Therefore they could be for the product form of nursing or cosmetic health or facial skin, lip, eyelashes, eyebrow, hair or fingernail; Sun-proof or from tanning products form; Hair products, is particularly used for the dyeing of hair, conditioning, cleaning, moulding and/or care product form; They are advantageously cosmetic composition form, especially mascara, lipstick, face powder, eye shadow or foundation cream.
The theme of the present invention still for keratin substances, the especially cosmetic treatment method of health or facial skin, lip, fingernail, hair, eyebrow and/or eyelashes, uses the cosmetic composition such as previous definition including to described material.
This method can be made up described keratin substances, especially lip, face, eyelid and/or buccal according to the lipstick of the present invention, eye shadow, face powder or foundation compositions by using especially.
The present invention prepares in embodiment below and illustrates in more detail.
Embodiment 1 to 4
Dyestuff according to the present invention is prepared via melted/polishing.
10 grams poly-(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxypentanoic acids) from Sigma-Aldrich are heated to (403121 comprise 12%PHV) temperature of 350 DEG C so that their flow. Add 10g colouring cpd when heat, stir this mixture by spatula and be subsequently cooled to room temperature, be down to 20-25 DEG C, then use dry ice or liquid nitrogen cryogenics to grind. Obtain the hope dyestuff of powder type.
Use three kinds of water-soluble dyeing and the fat-soluble dyeing of one:
| The raw material (supplier) used | |
| Embodiment 1 | Betanin extract (B0397 from TCI) on dextrin |
| Embodiment 2 | Comprise the Fructus Lycopersici esculenti oleo-resins (from Lycored 400120) of 10% lycopene |
| Embodiment 3 | Fruit of Ramulus Sambuci Williamsii pigment (503267d from Sensient) |
| Embodiment 4 | Annatto 14% (the PWS from Sensient E160B) |
Dyestuff according to the present invention is carried out colorimetric measurement, by comparing with similar or identical colouring cpd,
| L*(D65) | a*(D65) | b*(D65) | C*(D65) | h(D65) | |
| Embodiment 1 | 55.99 | 29.34 | -2.42 | 29.44 | 355.28 |
| Betanin (B0397 from TCI) | 33.69 | 38.64 | 1.54 | 38.67 | 2.28 |
| Embodiment 3 | 25.19 | 27.9 | 0.22 | 27.9 | 0.45 |
| Fruit of Ramulus Sambuci Williamsii pigment (503267d from Sensient) | 17.72 | 15.56 | 3.89 | 16.04 | 14.05 |
| Embodiment 2 | 34.82 | 38.85 | 37.39 | 53.92 | 43.9 |
| Embodiment 4 | 34.94 | 35.69 | 37.72 | 51.92 | 46.58 |
Embodiment 5
Dyestuff according to the present invention is prepared via inverse emulsifying-solvent evaporation process (proc �� d �� �� mulsioninverse-�� vaporationdesolvant).
In flask, 0.2g poly-(butyric ester) (PHB) being dissolved in dichloromethane, until having dissolved, being subsequently adding 0.059g surfactant (IsolanGPS from Goldschmidt).
In beaker, 0.2g fruit of Ramulus Sambuci Williamsii pigment dyeing agent (503267d from Sensient) is dissolved in HPLC water.
Two kinds of mixture are mixed, and uses Ultra-Turrax blender to carry out emulsifying 10 minutes with 6500rpm. 40 DEG C under reduced pressure (rotary evaporator) evaporate solvent 1 hour, be then concentrated into dry and pass through cryogenic mill.
Saturated purple powder is obtained with 78% yield.
Embodiment 6
Dyestuff according to the present invention is prepared via direct emulsifying-solvent evaporation process.
In flask, 0.2g poly-(butyric ester) (PHB) being dissolved in dichloromethane, until having dissolved, being subsequently adding 0.2g lycopene (from Lycored 400120).
In beaker, 0.2mg sodium lauryl sulphate is dissolved in 170mlHPLC water.
Two kinds of mixture mixed and uses magnetic bar agitator to carry out emulsifying 3 minutes with 650rpm, then carrying out emulsifying 10 minutes at 770rpm.
40 DEG C under reduced pressure (rotary evaporator) evaporate solvent 1 hour, be then centrifuged for this product and be filtered.
Finally obtain the dyestuff of the dark orange powder form of 15mg.
Embodiment 7
Preparing the cosmetic composition of lipstick type, it comprises (weight %):
The dyestuff of-5% embodiment 1
-15% Tissuemat E
-5% octyl dodecanol
-75%Parl��am��
Embodiment 8
Preparing the cosmetic composition of lipstick type, it comprises (weight %):
The dyestuff of-1% embodiment 3
-4% lithol red B
-15% Tissuemat E
-5% octyl dodecanol
-75%Parl��am��
Embodiment 9
Preparing the cosmetic composition of mascara type, it comprises (weight %):
-wax (Brazil wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, vegetable wax) 24%
-stearic acid 5.5%
-hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.2%
-arabic gum 1.5%
-triethanolamine 2.4%
-PEG/PPG-17/18 polydimethylsiloxane 0.2%
-polyvinyl alcohol 0.2%
The dyestuff 8% of-embodiment 3
-preservative q.s.
-water qs100%.
Embodiment 10
Preparing eye shadow make-up composition, it comprises (weight %):
The dyestuff 10% of-embodiment 4
-DuochromeBG20%
-magnesium stearate 2%
The different stearin (50/50) 6% of-phenyl trimethicone/tri-
-Talcum qs100%.
Embodiment 11
Preparation hair style gelation composition for cosmetics, it comprises (weight %):
The dyestuff 1% of-embodiment 4
-hydroxypropyl guar gum (JaguarHP105 from Rhodia) 4%
-water qs100%.
Claims (11)
1. cosmetic composition, it comprises at least one dyestuff containing Biopolvester and colouring cpd in cosmetically acceptable medium, wherein Biopolvester is selected from poly-(butyric ester), poly butyric ester-co-gathers hydroxyl valerate, poly butyric ester-co-gathers hydroxycaproic ester, and poly butyric ester-co-gathers Hydroxycaprylic acid ester, and poly butyric ester-co-gathers hydroxyoctadecanoic acid esters, individually or as mixture
With colouring cpd selected from carotenoid, anthocyanidin, betanin, individually or as mixture,
Wherein this colouring cpd Biopolvester encapsulating or coating;
This dyestuff comprises the Biopolvester of 40-95 weight % and the colouring cpd of 5-60 weight %.
2. compositions according to claim 1, wherein said Biopolvester has the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 40000-100000g/mol.
3. the compositions according to one of claim 1-2, wherein in dyestuff, the weight ratio between this colouring cpd and Biopolvester is 0.05-1.2.
4. the compositions according to one of claim 1-2, wherein dyestuff exists with 0.1-30 weight % ratio relative to the gross weight of cosmetic composition.
5. the compositions according to one of claim 1-2, wherein cosmetically acceptable medium includes at least one selected from following component: volatility or the nonvolatile solvent based on carbon, mineral based on hydrocarbon, fluorine-containing and/or siliceous, animal, plant or synthesis source; The wax in plant, animal, mineral or synthesis source, or silicone wax; Pigment, fat-soluble or water solublity stain; Thickening agent, gellant, spice, quintessence oil, preservative, active cosmetic agent, vitamin, spreading agent, wetting agent, dispersant, defoamer, nertralizer, stabilizer, polymer; Surfactant, emulsifying agent; Filler, and their mixture.
6. the compositions according to one of claim 1-2, it is for the product form of nursing or cosmetic health or facial skin, lip, eyelashes, eyebrow or fingernail; Sun-proof or from tanning products form; Hair products form exists.
7. the compositions according to one of claim 1-2, described dyestuff is by being prepared selected from the method for emulsification method, solvent evaporation process, melting method or breaking method.
8. dyestuff, it comprises Biopolvester and colouring cpd, wherein said Biopolvester is selected from poly-(butyric ester), poly butyric ester-co-gathers hydroxyl valerate, poly butyric ester-co-gathers hydroxycaproic ester, and poly butyric ester-co-gathers Hydroxycaprylic acid ester, and poly butyric ester-co-gathers hydroxyoctadecanoic acid esters, individually or as mixture
Described colouring cpd is selected from carotenoid, anthocyanidin, betanin, individually or as mixture:
Wherein this colouring cpd Biopolvester encapsulating or coating;
Wherein dyestuff comprises the Biopolvester of 40-95 weight % and the colouring cpd of 5-60 weight %.
9. dyestuff according to claim 8, wherein the weight ratio between this colouring cpd and Biopolvester is 0.05-1.2.
10. the cosmetic treatment method of keratin substances, uses such as the cosmetic composition of one of claim 1-7 definition including to described material.
11. cosmetic treatment method according to claim 10, it is for making up described keratin substances by using lipstick, eye shadow, face powder or foundation compositions.
Applications Claiming Priority (5)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR0951503A FR2942963B1 (en) | 2009-03-11 | 2009-03-11 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING COLORING MATTER, COLORING MATERIAL, AND COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS |
| FR0951503 | 2009-03-11 | ||
| US16181509P | 2009-03-20 | 2009-03-20 | |
| US61/161815 | 2009-03-20 | ||
| PCT/FR2010/050355 WO2010103215A1 (en) | 2009-03-11 | 2010-03-03 | Cosmetic composition comprising a colouring material, colouring material, and cosmetic treatment method |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN102421483A CN102421483A (en) | 2012-04-18 |
| CN102421483B true CN102421483B (en) | 2016-06-01 |
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| CN201080020452.6A Active CN102421483B (en) | 2009-03-11 | 2010-03-03 | Comprise the cosmetic composition of dyestuff, described dyestuff and cosmetic treatment method |
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| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN102421483B (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2942963B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2010103215A1 (en) |
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| FR2964663B1 (en) * | 2010-09-14 | 2013-10-11 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING COLORING MATTER, COLORING MATERIAL, AND COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS |
| CN103665778B (en) * | 2012-08-30 | 2016-05-04 | 普立万聚合体（上海）有限公司 | The composition of protection beta carotene |
| CN103251525A (en) * | 2013-05-10 | 2013-08-21 | 上海创馨化妆品有限公司 | Grafting liquid for making up eyelashes and using method thereof |
| CN104840384A (en) * | 2015-04-15 | 2015-08-19 | 龚民 | Dual-component hair dye and hair dyeing method based on same |
| US20170105916A1 (en) * | 2015-10-20 | 2017-04-20 | Australian Gold, LLC | Sunless tanning compositions comprising caramel |
| CN105769665A (en) * | 2016-03-18 | 2016-07-20 | 广东五度生物科技有限公司 | Saffron crocus lipstick and preparation method thereof |
| US9717674B1 (en) | 2016-04-06 | 2017-08-01 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin cleansing compositions comprising biodegradable abrasive particles |
| US10806692B2 (en) | 2016-10-03 | 2020-10-20 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin cleansing compositions comprising color stable abrasive particles |
| IT201700024752A1 (en) * | 2017-03-06 | 2018-09-06 | Maip S R L | POLYMERIC COMPOSITIONS INCLUDING A FOOD SUBSTANCE AND THEIR USE |
| IT201700035338A1 (en) * | 2017-03-30 | 2018-09-30 | Bio On Spa | COSMETIC COMPOSITION INCLUDING A BIODEGRADABLE POLYESTER AND AN OLEOUS PHASE. |
| CN107556717A (en) * | 2017-09-30 | 2018-01-09 | 江苏瑞腾涂装科技有限公司 | A kind of poly (lactic acid) composition |
| CN107964809A (en) * | 2017-11-09 | 2018-04-27 | 安徽美德发艺有限责任公司 | A kind of environmentally friendly coloring agent for U-shaped nail sending and receiving |
| US11241375B2 (en) | 2019-09-30 | 2022-02-08 | L'oréal | Cosmetic composition comprising biodegradable polymers |
| KR20210038275A (en) * | 2019-09-30 | 2021-04-07 | 래쉬파이 인코포레이티드 | Charcoal adhesive composition for artificial eyelashes |
| TWI741462B (en) * | 2019-12-25 | 2021-10-01 | 遠東科技大學 | Mascara and method for manufacturing mascara |
| BR112022026553A2 (en) * | 2020-06-26 | 2023-05-02 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING BIODEGRADABLE POLYMERS |
| FR3113461B1 (en) * | 2020-08-20 | 2023-11-17 | Oreal | Cosmetic compositions comprising biodegradable polymers |
| WO2023009717A1 (en) * | 2021-07-28 | 2023-02-02 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition |
| FR3126313B1 (en) * | 2021-08-31 | 2023-09-01 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION |
| FR3131205A1 (en) * | 2021-12-23 | 2023-06-30 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer with an (un)saturated hydrocarbon chain, and a silicone polymer |
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| US5466444A (en) * | 1991-04-17 | 1995-11-14 | Jurgens; Christian | Resorbable, biocompatible copolymers and their use |
| CN1643038A (en) * | 2002-03-18 | 2005-07-20 | 宝洁公司 | Grinding process for plastic material and compositions therefrom |
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| AU2002225827A1 (en) * | 2000-10-27 | 2002-05-06 | Metabolix, Inc. | Compositions comprising low molecular weight polyhydroxyalkanoates and methods employing same |
| US20090311295A1 (en) * | 2006-05-12 | 2009-12-17 | Edith Mathiowitz | Particles with high uniform loading of nanoparticles and methods of preparation thereof |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US5466444A (en) * | 1991-04-17 | 1995-11-14 | Jurgens; Christian | Resorbable, biocompatible copolymers and their use |
| CN1643038A (en) * | 2002-03-18 | 2005-07-20 | 宝洁公司 | Grinding process for plastic material and compositions therefrom |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| FR2942963A1 (en) | 2010-09-17 |
| CN102421483A (en) | 2012-04-18 |
| FR2942963B1 (en) | 2011-04-22 |
| WO2010103215A1 (en) | 2010-09-16 |
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