CN102137652A - 选自n-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、n-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、n-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和n-椰油酰基丙氨酸的n-酰基氨基酸作为调控表达存活蛋白的核形式的人皮肤表皮的基底角质形成细胞的比例的活性剂的用途以及含有其的抗老化美容用组合物 - Google Patents
选自n-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、n-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、n-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和n-椰油酰基丙氨酸的n-酰基氨基酸作为调控表达存活蛋白的核形式的人皮肤表皮的基底角质形成细胞的比例的活性剂的用途以及含有其的抗老化美容用组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN102137652A CN102137652A CN2009801337787A CN200980133778A CN102137652A CN 102137652 A CN102137652 A CN 102137652A CN 2009801337787 A CN2009801337787 A CN 2009801337787A CN 200980133778 A CN200980133778 A CN 200980133778A CN 102137652 A CN102137652 A CN 102137652A
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- Prior art keywords
- alanine
- palmityl
- palmitoyl
- acid
- acylamino acid
- Prior art date
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Abstract
本发明涉及选自N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和N-椰油酰基丙氨酸的N-酰基氨基酸作为调控表达存活蛋白的核形式的人皮肤表皮的基底角质形成细胞的比例的活性剂的用途、含有其的抗老化美容组合物以及其在实施用于维持人皮肤表皮的干细胞存活的治疗性方法中的用途。
Description
本发明涉及美容用和药用活性成分领域,并且还涉及包含其的局部用组合物。
在发达国家中对生命期望的增加已经持续地伴随着无法抑制的对“恢复青春”的渴望,这在过去30年左右变得更加明显并且这导致了尝试延缓(如果看不见消失)皮肤老化迹象如特别是皱纹的出现。这种行为变化已经伴随着致力于皮肤的科学研究的发展,并且在约10年中也伴随着“抗老化”美容用产品市场的快速增长。本发明属于研究如下新分子或组合物的内容:所述新分子或组合物当应用于皮肤时通过其自身活性产生这种“抗老化”作用。
皮肤老化机制可以以以下方式来解释:
皮肤由两种主要的组织组成:真皮和表皮(其更加浅表),位于两者之间的是交界区——真皮表皮界。
-真皮是致密和纤维弹性的结缔组织,其产生和任何重塑基本上由成纤维细胞进行,其由细胞外基质(ECM)组成,细胞外基质由负责皮肤美观性质的纤维性(胶原和弹性)分子组成,并且其还由基质组成。胶原占真皮干重的98%。基质由如下组成:
-填充细胞和纤维之间空间的大分子;
-结构糖蛋白,其允许细胞与ECM连接并且基本位于真皮表皮界以下;
-蛋白聚糖,包括糖胺聚糖(GAGs),它是与蛋白质结合的形式(共价键合),或者双糖链蛋白聚糖。
-表皮基本上由角质形成细胞组成。这些细胞在基层增殖,然后逐渐分化形成表皮的各层,同时从底部迁移至表面,在表面处脱落。
-真皮表皮界(DEJ)是位于表皮的基底角质形成细胞和真皮之间的交界区。其特征是存在基膜,在基膜中ECM形成薄的和固体的网格。其由五种主要组分组成,即IV型胶原、层粘连蛋白、硫酸乙酰肝素、巢蛋白(或触觉蛋白)和纤连蛋白。
干细胞(SC)是未分化的细胞,其特征在于它们能够维持器官的完整性或者重建器官。它们最通常地位于解剖学上的“龛”(niches)中,“龛”与特定的结构和功能性质相关。
成人皮肤含有调节其更新、其表面外观或甚至是其随时间的变化的干细胞(Jones和Watt,1993)。在皮肤中可以区别出两种类型的干细胞:
-滤泡多能干细胞,基本上在动物中被研究,和
-表皮干细胞,其特征在于一方面强的自我更新的能力和另一方面强的产生高分化子细胞的能力。
在表皮中,SC存在于基底层中,它们的定位是非常特异性的(参见图1)。它们占基细胞的1至10%(Papini等人,2003;Schneider等人,2003)。
但是,在环境因素的作用下,干细胞的不对称分配导致瞬时扩增子细胞(TA,40%的基细胞)的传代。因此,瞬时扩增子细胞被预期增殖(它们的群体倍增数受限)和然后在上基底层内变成在分化过程中涉及的细胞(有丝分裂期后细胞)(Jones和Watt,1993;Papini等人,2003;Marconi等人,2007)。表皮干细胞的强的增殖能力与如下事实有关:它们表达比其它基底角质形成细胞高的β-1整联蛋白水平(Jones和Watt,1993)。另外,它们具有非常高的粘附能力。它们还高度避免了UVB-照射引起的细胞凋亡现象和避免了失巢凋亡过程(由于与细胞外基质的粘附损失而引起的一种特定形式的细胞凋亡)(Grossman等人,2001;Tiberio等人,2002;Marconi等人,2004)。
存活蛋白属于抗细胞凋亡分子(IAP,细胞凋亡蛋白抑制剂)家族,其在这种保护中发挥卓越的作用(Marconi等人,2007)。这种存活的蛋白最初位于细胞质中,必须被转移至细胞核中以使得细胞能够进入细胞周期(Suzuki等人,2000)。在表皮内,其仅仅被某些基底角质形成细胞所表达(Botchkareva等人,2007;Marconi等人,2007)。因此,TA表达胞质形式,而核形式的表达是干细胞特异性的(Marconi等人,2007)。
存活细胞还被毛囊的干细胞所表达,在毛囊中其表现出在维持毛囊生长中发挥作用(Botchkareva等人,2007)。类似地,其表现出在内皮细胞的保护和存活中有牵连,特别是在血管发生期间如此(O′Connor等人,2000;Kirkiles-Smith等人,2004)。
在老化期间,表皮干细胞的数目下降,并且所述细胞的功能受损(Papini等人,2003;Kwon等人,2008)。
目前有许多“抗老化”或“抗皱”活性成分。其中一些能够调节正常人成纤维细胞的表型和/或性质。例如,许多美容用活性成分刺激通过成纤维细胞进行的胶原生成。因此,在美容应用中所用的脂氨基酸中,有一些具有抗老化生物学性质,例如二棕榈酰基羟脯氨酸(SepiliftTM DPHP)。
作为US 2006/024375公开的美国专利申请公开:向粉底化妆品中掺入N-棕榈酰基脯氨酸、N-棕榈酰基谷氨酸和N-棕榈酰基肌氨酸的混合物产生了皮肤保护作用和抗老化作用,这些作用由于其对皮肤的抗炎性质和作为P物质拮抗剂起作用因而是特别高的。
作为US 2007/0048396公开的美国专利申请公开了N-椰油酰基氨基酸、天冬氨酸镁和天冬氨酸钾的混合物对皮肤的抗炎性质。
另一方面,没有“抗老化”活性成分显示已经被描述为作用于表皮干细胞的存活。具体而言,活性成分如市售产品AmatokinTM中所用的多肽#153被描述为通过使休眠干细胞再活化来增加表皮中的干细胞数。但是,在活性成分的一方面就存活蛋白的表达和另一方面就抗老化效力而言的调节性质之间没有显著关联。类似地,没有N-酰基氨基酸被描述为能够调节表皮干细胞中的存活蛋白表达。
根据第一方面,本发明的主题是选自N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和N-椰油酰基丙氨酸的N-酰基氨基酸作为调节表达存活蛋白的核形式的人皮肤表皮的基底角质形成细胞的比例的活性剂的用途。
根据第二方面,本发明的主题是选自N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和N-椰油酰基丙氨酸的N-酰基氨基酸在实施用于维持人皮肤表皮的干细胞存活的治疗性方法中的用途。
在如上文定义的用途中使用的N-酰基氨基酸可以是游离酸形式或者部分或全部地是成盐形式。当它是成盐形式时,其特别包括碱金属盐(例如钠、钾或锂盐)、碱土金属盐(例如钙、镁或锶盐)、铵盐或氨基醇的盐(例如(2-羟基乙基)铵盐)。它还可以包括金属盐,例如锌或锰二价盐或者铁、镧、铈或铝三价盐。通常,所述N-酰基氨基酸的成盐程度还取决于其pKA和其将掺入其中的组合物中的盐浓度。
根据本发明的另一种特定变通方式,仅一种上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸被用于含有美容学上可接受的介质的组合物中。
根据本发明的另一种特定变通方式,使用上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸的混合物。
根据另一个特定方面,本发明的主题是如上文定义的用途,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸。
根据另一个特定方面,本发明的主题是如上文定义的用途,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸。
根据另一个特定方面,本发明的主题是如上文定义的用途,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸。
根据另一个特定方面,本发明的主题是如上文定义的用途,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-椰油酰基丙氨酸。
术语“N-椰油酰基丙氨酸”意欲指通过使丙氨酸与来源于椰子油的脂肪酸的活化衍生物酰化所获得的N-酰基丙氨酸的混合物。
式(I)化合物通常通过使相应的氨基酸或其盐进行N-酰化而获得。
当涉及式(I)化合物的混合物时,其例如通过使由任意来源的蛋白质的总水解所产生的氨基酸混合物进行N-酰化而获得。
本发明的主题还有用于维持人皮肤表皮的干细胞存活的非治疗性处置人体的方法,其特征在于给其应用含有美容学上可接受的介质和有效量的至少一种如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸的组合物。
根据另一个特定方面,本发明的主题是如上文定义的方法,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸。
根据另一个特定方面,本发明的主题是如上文定义的方法,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸。
根据另一个特定方面,本发明的主题是如上文定义的方法,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸。
根据另一个特定方面,本发明的主题是如上文定义的方法,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-椰油酰基丙氨酸。
在如上文定义的用途和方法中,N-酰基氨基酸通常用于局部应用于皮肤和粘膜的组合物中。所述的局部应用组合物包含0.01%至10%质量、更特别是0.1%至5%质量、最特别是1%至5%质量的所述N-酰基氨基酸。所述的治疗或处置或所述的用途通过将所述的局部应用组合物应用于欲治疗的皮肤或粘膜表面来实施。
根据另一个方面,本发明的主题是“抗老化”美容用组合物,其特征在于其包含0.01%-10%质量、更特别是0.1%-5%质量、最特别是1%-5%质量的N-酰基氨基酸,所述N-酰基氨基酸选自N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和N-椰油酰基丙氨酸。
在所述方法或所述用途中使用的组合物通常是稀的水溶液或水-醇溶液的形式;简单乳剂或复乳的形式,例如油包水(W/O)、水包油(O/W)或水包油包水(W/O/W)乳剂,其中油是植物或矿物性质的;或粉末的形式。也可以将它们分散在或浸润于织物材料或无纺材料中,不管这些材料是擦拭布(wipes)、纸巾或覆盖物(clothing)。
在所述治疗或处置中使用的组合物通常是稀的水溶液或水-醇溶液的形式;简单乳剂或复乳的形式,例如油包水(W/O)、水包油(O/W)或水包油包水(W/O/W)乳剂,其中油是植物或矿物性质的;或粉末的形式。也可以将它们分散在或浸润于织物材料或无纺材料中,不管这些材料是擦拭布、纸巾或覆盖物。
所述治疗或处置中所用的组合物以美容品或药物中使用的常规形式施用于个体;它们更特别是局部、口服或胃肠道外施用。
如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸通常可以与多种类型的用于美容用配制物的佐剂或活性成分联用,不管它们是脂肪物质、有机溶剂、增稠剂、胶凝剂、软化剂、抗氧化剂、遮光剂、稳定剂、发泡剂/去污剂、柔润剂、过脂肪剂(overfatting agents)、芳香剂、离子或非离子型乳化剂、填充剂、多价螯合剂、螯合剂、防腐剂、精油、染料、色素、亲水性或亲脂性活性剂、保湿剂(例如甘油或乙二醇)、防腐剂、着色剂、美容用活性剂、无机和/或有机防晒剂、无机填充剂(例如氧化铁、氧化钛和滑石粉)、合成填充剂(例如尼龙和交联或非交联聚(甲基丙烯酸甲酯))、硅酮高弹体、丝云母或植物提取物或者脂囊泡、自晒黑剂如DHA和/或赤藓酮糖、氧化剂如过氧化氢水溶液或通常用于美容品工业的任意其它成分。
作为可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的油的实例,可以提及的有石蜡、异构烷烃、白矿物油(white mineral oils)、植物油(来源于花、果实、蔬菜、树、谷物、产油植物等)、动物油、合成油、硅油和氟油(fluorooil);更特别是:
-植物来源的油,例如甜杏仁油、椰子油、蓖麻油、西蒙得木油、橄榄油、菜子油、花生油、葵花油、小麦胚芽油、玉米胚芽油、大豆油、棉子油、苜蓿油、罂粟油、南瓜籽油、月见草油、小米油、大麦油、黑麦油、红花油、烛果油、西番莲花油、榛子油、棕榈油、牛油树脂、杏仁油、美叶油(beauty-leaf oil)、大蒜芥油(sisymbrium oil)、鳄梨油、金盏花油、从花或植物获得的油;乙氧基化植物油;
-动物来源的油,例如角鲨烯或角鲨烷;
-矿物油,例如液体石蜡、液体矿脂和异构烷烃;
-合成油,特别是脂肪酸酯,例如肉豆蔻酸丁酯、肉豆蔻酸丙酯、肉豆蔻酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、硬脂酸十六烷基酯、硬脂酸异丙酯、硬脂酸辛酯、硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、油酸十二烷基酯、月桂酸己酯或二辛酸丙二醇酯;
-衍生自羊毛脂酸(lanolic acid)的酯,例如羊毛脂酸异丙酯或羊毛脂酸异鲸蜡酯,脂肪酸甘油单酯、甘油二酯和甘油三酯,例如三庚酸甘油酯、苯甲酸烷基酯、聚-α-烯烃、聚烯烃如聚异丁烯、合成异烷烃如异十六烷或异十二烷、全氟代油和硅油。在后者中,可以更具体提到的有聚二甲基硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、胺修饰的硅酮、脂肪酸修饰的硅酮、醇修饰的硅酮、醇和脂肪酸修饰的硅酮、聚醚基团修饰的硅酮、环氧修饰的硅酮、氟基团修饰的硅酮、环状硅酮和烷基修饰的硅酮。
作为可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的其它脂肪,可以提及的有饱和或不饱和的直链或支链脂肪醇,饱和和/或不饱和的直链和/或支链脂肪醇的混合物,或者饱和或不饱和的直链或支链脂肪酸,以及饱和或不饱和的直链或支链脂肪酸的混合物。
在可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的增稠和/或乳化聚合物中,例如有:丙烯酸或丙烯酸衍生物的均聚物或共聚物、甲基丙烯酸或甲基丙烯酸衍生物的均聚物或共聚物、丙烯酰胺均聚物或共聚物、丙烯酰胺衍生物的均聚物或共聚物、丙烯酰氨基甲基丙磺酸均聚物或共聚物、乙烯基单体的均聚物或共聚物、丙烯酸三甲基氨基乙基酯氯化物均聚物或共聚物、植物或生物合成来源的水胶体(例如黄原胶、刺梧桐树胶、角叉菜胶(carrageenates)、海藻酸盐);硅酸盐;纤维素及其衍生物;淀粉及其亲水性衍生物;聚氨基甲酸酯。
在可用于产生能够被用于制备W/O、O/W、W/O/W或O/W/O型乳剂或产生包含SepibioTM Potentilla 217的水性凝胶的凝胶化水相的聚电解质型聚合物中,有例如丙烯酸/2-甲基[(1-氧代-2-丙烯基)氨基]-1-丙磺酸(AMPS)共聚物、丙烯酰胺/2-甲基[(1-氧代-2-丙烯基)氨基]-1-丙磺酸共聚物、2-甲基[(1-氧代-2-丙烯基)氨基]-1-丙磺酸/(2-羟基乙基)丙烯酸酯共聚物、2-甲基[(1-氧代-2-丙烯基)氨基]-1-丙磺酸均聚物、丙烯酸均聚物、丙烯酰基乙基三甲基氯化铵/丙烯酰胺共聚物、AMSP/乙烯吡咯烷酮共聚物、AMPS/N,N-二甲基丙烯酰胺共聚物、AMPS/丙烯酸/N,N-二甲基丙烯酰胺三聚物、丙烯酸和其基于碳的链包括10至30个碳原子的烷基丙烯酸酯的共聚物以及AMPS和其基于碳的链包括10至30个碳原子的烷基丙烯酸酯的共聚物。该聚合物分别以如下名称出售:SimulgelTM EG、SepigelTM 305、SimulgelTM NS、SimulgelTM 800、SimulgelTM A、SimulgelTM EPG、SimulgelTM INS、SimulgelTM FL、SepigelTM 501、SepigelTM 502、SepiplusTM250、SepiplusTM 265、SepiplusTM 400、SepinovTM EMT 10、CarbopolTM、UltrezTM 10、AculynTM、PemulenTM TR1、PemulenTM TR2、LuvigelTM EM、SalcareTM SC91、SalcareTM SC92、SalcareTM SC95、SalcareTM SC96、FlocareTM ET100、FlocareTM ET58、HispagelTM、NovemerTM EC1、AristoflexTM AVC、AristoflexTM HBM、RapithixTM A60、RapithixTM A100、Cosmedia SP和StabilezeTM 06。
在可用于与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的蜡中,可以提及的例如有:蜂蜡;巴西棕榈蜡;小烛树蜡;小冠巴西棕蜡(ouricoury wax);日本蜡(Japan wax);木栓纤维蜡(cork fiber wax);甘蔗蜡;石蜡;褐煤蜡;微晶蜡;羊毛蜡;地蜡;聚乙烯蜡;氢化油;硅氧烷蜡;植物蜡;在环境温度下为固体的脂肪醇和脂肪酸;和在环境温度下为固体的甘油酯。
在可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的乳化剂中,可以提及的有:
-任选被烷氧基化的烷基多苷脂肪酸酯,最特别是乙氧基化甲基多苷酯,例如PEG 120甲基葡萄糖三油酸酯和PEG 120甲基葡萄糖二油酸酯,分别以名称GlucamateTM LT和GlumateTM DOE120出售;
-烷氧基化脂肪酸酯,例如以名称CrothixTM DS53出售的PEG150季戊四醇四硬脂酸酯或者以名称AntilTM 141出售的PEG 55丙二醇油酸酯;
-脂肪链聚亚烷基二醇氨甲酸酯,例如以名称ElfacosTM T211出售的PPG 14月桂醇聚醚异佛尔基二氨甲酸酯(PPG 14 laureth isophoryldicarbamate)或者以名称ElfacosTM GT2125出售的PPG 14棕榈油醇聚醚-60己基二氨甲酸酯(PPG 14 palmeth 60hexyl dicarbamate);
-脂肪酸、乙氧基化脂肪酸、山梨醇脂肪酸酯、乙氧基化脂肪酸酯、聚山梨酯、聚甘油酯、乙氧基化脂肪醇、蔗糖酯、烷基多苷、脂肪醇硫酸酯和磷酸酯或者烷基多苷和法国专利申请2668080、2734496、2756195、2762317、2784680、2784904、2791565、2790977、2807435、2804432、2830774、2830445中记载的脂肪醇的混合物;
-选自烷基多苷的乳化表面活性剂的组合;
-烷基多苷与脂肪醇、聚甘油或聚乙二醇或多元醇酯如法国专利申请2852257、2858554、2820316和2852258中所用的聚乙二醇或聚甘油多羟基硬脂酸酯的组合。
在可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的发泡和/或去污表面活性剂中,可以提及的有:在该活性领域中通常使用的局部用可接受的阴离子型、阳离子型、两性或非离子型表面活性剂。
在可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的阴离子型表面活性剂中,将特别提及的有下述化合物的碱金属盐、碱土金属盐、铵盐、胺盐、氨基醇盐:烷基醚硫酸酯、烷基硫酸酯、烷基氨基醚硫酸酯、烷基芳基聚醚硫酸酯、硫酸单甘油酯、α-烯烃磺酸酯、石蜡磺酸酯、烷基磷酸酯、烷基醚磷酸酯、烷基磺酸酯、烷基酰胺磺酸酯、烷基芳基磺酸酯、烷基羧酸酯、烷基磺基琥珀酸盐、烷基醚磺基琥珀酸盐、烷基酰氨基磺基琥珀酸酯、烷基磺基乙酸酯、烷基肌氨酸酯、酰基羟乙磺酸酯、N-酰基牛磺酸酯和酰基乳酰乳酸酯。在阴离子表面活性剂中,还将提及的有脂氨基酸、脂蛋白、脂肽、脂蛋白衍生物、蛋白质衍生物、脂肪酸盐和任选被氢化的椰油酸盐。
在可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的两性表面活性剂中,将特别提及的有烷基甜菜碱、烷基酰氨基甜菜碱、磺基甜菜碱、烷基酰氨基烷基磺基甜菜碱、咪唑啉衍生物、磷酸甜菜碱(phosphobetaines)、两性聚乙酸酯(amphopolyacetates)和两性丙酸酯(amphopropionates)。
在可以合并入包含LAA的美容制备物中的阳离子表面活性剂中,将特别提及的有季铵衍生物。
在可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的非离子型表面活性剂中,将特别提及的有烷基多苷、蓖麻油衍生物、聚山梨酯、copra amides、N-烷基胺和胺氧化物。
为了增强如上文所定义的N-酰基氨基酸的活性,可以将其与特别是已知其如下作用的活性剂组合:抗氧化作用、自由基清除作用、抗老化作用、紧肤作用、重构作用、刺激作用、供能作用、补氧作用、抗皱作用、松缓(decontracting)作用、保湿作用、柔润作用、去皮屑作用、抗微生物作用、调节皮脂作用、净化作用、安抚(soothing)作用、放松作用、松缓作用、抗应激作用、减肥作用、排水作用、使颜色变淡的作用、脱色素作用或着色素前(propigmenting)作用、神经调节作用、免疫调节作用或张力调节作用。作为可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的活性成分的实例,可以提及的有具有使颜色变淡或脱色素作用的化合物,例如熊果苷、曲酸、氢醌、鞣花酸、维生素C及其衍生物、磷酸抗坏血酸酯镁、SepiwhiteTM MSH、SepicalmTM VG、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、植酸、水果酸、噜忻喏(rucinol)或间二苯酚、壬二酸、硫辛酸、VegewhiteTM、GatulineTM、SynerlightTM、BiowhiteTM、PhytolightTM、DermalightTM、ClariskinTM、MelaslowTM、DermawhiteTM、EthiolineTM、MelarestTM、GigawhiteTM、AlbatineTM、LumiskinTM、多酚提取物、葡萄提取物、松树提取物、酒提取物、橄榄提取物、茶提取物、可可提取物、亚马逊森林植物(Amazonian forest plant)提取物、植物提取物、花提取物、果实提取物、marc提取物、苹果汁提取物、N-酰基蛋白质、N-酰基肽、N-酰基氨基酸如N-月桂酰基脯氨酸、N-亚油酰基赖氨酸、N-亚油酰基亮氨酸、N-辛酰基甘氨酸、N-十一碳烯酰基苯丙氨酸、N-棕榈酰基脯氨酸、N-酰基蛋白质的部分水解物、氨基酸、肽、总蛋白水解物、部分蛋白水解物、多元醇(例如甘油或丁二醇)、奶衍生物、组合糖和多元醇的结构如AquaxylTM、脲、吡咯烷酮羧酸或该酸的衍生物、甘草次酸、α-没药醇、糖或糖衍生物、多糖或其衍生物、羟基酸如乳酸、维生素、维生素衍生物如视黄醇、视黄醇衍生物、维生素E及其衍生物、矿物质、酶、辅酶如辅酶Q10及其衍生物、激素或“激素样”物质、大豆提取物如RaffermineTM、小麦提取物如TensineTM或GliadineTM、芝麻提取物如SesaflashTM、卡尼汀及其衍生物、牛磺酸及其衍生物、咖啡因及其衍生物、茶碱及其衍生物、植物提取物如MyoxinolTM LS9736、植物提取物如富含单宁的提取物、富含异黄酮的提取物或富含萜的提取物、淡水藻或盐水藻提取物、精蜡(essential waxes)、细菌提取物、矿物质、通常的脂质、诸如神经酰胺或磷脂的脂质、具有减肥作用的活性剂如咖啡因或其衍生物、改善皮肤毛细血管循环的活性剂如静脉张力剂(venotonic agents)、排水活性剂、用于解除充血、特别是眼袋的活性剂、对油性皮肤而言具有抗微生物活性或净化作用的活性剂如DeepalineTM PVB、LipacideTM UG或SepicontrolTM A5或者铜或锌衍生物或octopiroxTM或SensivaTM SC50、具有供能或刺激性质的活性剂如SepitonicTM M3或PhysiogenylTM、促进补氧的活性剂、促进线粒体代谢的活性剂、泛醇及其衍生物如SepicapTM MP、抗老化活性剂如SepiliftTM DPHP、DeepalineTM PVB、SepivinolTM、SepivitalTM、TimecodeTM、保湿活性剂如SepicalmTM S、SepicalmTM VG和SepiliftTM DPHP、AquaxylTM、ProteolTM SAV 50、抗老化活性剂、对皮肤具有立即调张力或平滑作用的活性剂如SesaflashTM、对抗光老化的活性剂、保护真皮表皮界完整性的活性剂、增加细胞外基质组分(例如胶原、弹性蛋白、糖胺聚糖等)合成的活性剂、具有重构作用的活性剂、具有结瘢作用的活性剂、具有紧肤作用的活性剂、具有“botox-样”作用的活性剂、具有“手术样”作用的活性剂、具有“激光样”作用的活性剂、作用于表情纹的活性剂、作用于钙通道的活性剂、具有有益于老化的神经调节作用的活性剂、改善皮肤屏障完整性的活性剂、作用于特定皮肤酶的活性剂、作用于特定细胞受体的活性剂、作用于线粒体代谢的活性剂、作用于皮肤磁场的活性剂、对抗磁性波的活性剂、改善细胞通信的活性剂、具有自由基清除或抗氧化作用的活性剂、具有“调节张力”作用的活性剂、具有去皮屑、抗痤疮、镇静、神经调节、抗P物质、抗过敏、抗疼痛、抗应激、抗发红、免疫调节或调节张力作用的活性剂、作用于干细胞的活性剂如PhytocellTM、增加细胞寿命的活性剂如LongevicelTM或者基于多酚的活性剂。如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸可以通过任意类型的应用于皮肤的和意欲增加皮肤益处的设备来理想地使用。
如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸的活性将理想地通过使用如下物质而被增加或者甚至被协同(或增强):已知具有减肥、排水或循环调节作用的其它分子或酶,自由基清除和/或抗氧化活性剂(仅仅作为举例,例如超氧化物歧化酶、过氧化氢酶、过氧化物酶、辅酶Q10、维生素、类胡萝卜素、硫辛酸、矿物质、多酚、谷胱甘肽)、促进脂肪消除的活性剂、促进线粒体代谢的活性剂、限制葡萄糖或脂肪酸进入脂细胞的活性剂、促进脂解的活性剂、抑制脂肪生成的活性剂、抑制脂肪细胞分化的活性剂、作用于血管生成的活性剂、作用于甘油通道的活性剂、限制脂肪储存和促进脂肪消除的活性剂、作用于使皮肤颗粒精致的活性剂等。作为举例,如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸可以与如下物质组合:ActisculpTM、BiosculptineTM、RemodulineTM、Isoslim ComplexTM等、SveltineTM、SlimfitTM、SveltonylTM、UnislimTM、LipocareTM、PleurimincylTM、Phytotal SLTM、CyclolipaseTM、咖啡因、茶碱、环腺苷酸(cAMP)、绿茶、鼠尾草、银杏、地上常青藤、马栗、竹、假叶(ruscus)、假叶树、积雪草、欧石南、绣线菊、墨角藻、迷迭香、柳、防风(parsnip)提取物、在皮肤上产生“热”感的活性剂如皮肤毛细血管循环的激活剂(实例:烟酸甲酯、乙酯或己酯)或者在皮肤上产生“新鲜”感的产物(实例:薄荷醇及衍生物)、在干细胞方面呈现作用的活性剂、在表皮、真皮、下皮和皮肤附属器(毛、皮脂腺、毛孔等)方面呈现作用的活性剂或者在皮肤菌群方面呈现作用的活性剂。
作为可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸组合的防晒剂,可以提及的有在化妆品导则76/768/EEC,(修订版),附件VII中出现的那些。
作为可以与如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸合并的防晒剂,可以更特别提及的有亲脂性防晒剂如奥克立林、依托立林、胡莫柳酯如EusolexTM HMS、对甲氧基肉桂酸辛基酯如ParsolTM MCX、奥西诺酯(octinoxate)、辛水杨酯、阿伏苯宗、羟苯甲酮、二苯酮-1、二苯酮-2、二苯酮-3如Uvinul M-40、二苯酮-8、二苯酮-12、乙基二羟基丙基PABA、甘油基PABA、乙基己基二甲基PABA、邻氨基苯甲酸酯、3-亚苄基樟脑、4-甲基亚苄基樟脑或异丙基二苯甲酰甲烷;疏脂性防晒剂,例如二氧化钛、氧化锌、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、二苯酮-4、TEA水杨酸盐、PABA、DEA甲氧基肉桂酸盐或其它包囊防晒剂如Seiwa Kazei公司出售的SilasomaTM或Merck公司出售的UV PearlTM。
如上文定义的防晒剂还可以包括一种或多种油吸收剂,例如二氧化硅,其可以是球状二氧化硅如SpheronTM L-1500、多孔二氧化硅或发烟二氧化硅、交联或非交联聚(甲基丙烯酸甲酯)如MicropearlTM、糊精、环糊精、分子筛如沸石、Nylons 6或12、硅铝酸钠、硅铝酸钙、滑石粉或云母。
如上文定义的防晒剂还可以包括新戊酸与含10至22个碳原子的异烷基醇的一种或多种酯。在这种情况中,优选包含新戊酸异癸基酯、新戊酸异十八烷基酯或新戊酸异二十烷基酯。
如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸还可以与具有预期使皮肤舒适度最佳的感觉性质如清爽作用(例如薄荷提取物、醇等)或加热作用的化合物一起组合。
以下实验研究解释说明了本发明,但是不限制本发明。本发明证明:如上文定义的N-酰基氨基酸对表达存活蛋白的角质形成细胞的比例产生了有益作用。因此,它们使得能够维持表皮干细胞的存活和表现出“抗老化”性质。
在活体外模型中本发明的N-酰基氨基酸就表达存活蛋白的基底角质形成
细胞的比例而言的调节效力的证明:
原则
用于证明所测试N-酰基氨基酸的效力的活体外模型在于进行美容制备物在皮肤外植物上的局部应用,所述皮肤外植物由取自年轻供体或年龄较长供体的活组织(整形外科手术废弃物)制得。然后进行组织学冷冻切片,接着针对存活细胞的核形式进行免疫标记,以便显影和定量表皮内的阳性细胞比例。因此,可以在年轻供体和年长供体之间和/或在经处理或未经处理的外植物之间进行比较。
处理6天后和纳入市场上的“抗老化抗皱”参比市售组合物(R)MatrixylTM(INCI名称:甘油和水和丁二醇和卡波姆和聚山梨酯20和棕榈酰基寡肽和棕榈酰基四肽-7),针对安慰剂进行了该研究。
方案:
按照下述配制流程将N-酰基氨基酸和组合物(R)分别以1%和3%(即推荐使用剂量)配制在乳膏凝胶中:
成分 | % |
水 | 66.8 |
甘油 | 5 |
氯苯甘油醚 | 0.3 |
Montanov 202 | 2 |
Montanov 82 | 1 |
Lanol P | 1.5 |
植物角鲨烷 | 7 |
聚异丁烯 | 13 |
Keltrol T | 0.15 |
受试化合物 | 1 |
Montanox 60DF | 0.5 |
Sepiplus 400 | 0.8 |
Sepicide LD | 0.7 |
芳香剂 | 0.1 |
50%TEA | 0.15 |
由脱脂整形外科手术废弃物制得直径8mm的皮肤外植物。一半外植物(PJ组)来自年轻患者(J:37岁)的活组织,另一半(PA组)来自较年长患者(A:52岁)。随后将这些外植物放入6-孔培养板(MW6)中,然后在未经处理的情况下在32℃和5%CO2下在空气/液体界面上维持直至第二天。在第二天,采用细刷将美容制备物以2mg/cm2的比例应用于“成年”组(A组)的外植物的表面。随后将外植物于32℃和5%CO2下培养。每2-3天更新培养介质,每48小时重复局部应用,共计6天。
每种测试一式三份进行。
在孵育结束时,将样品洗涤,然后在液氮冷却的异戊烷中冷冻,然后切割组织学冷冻切片。在固定和洗涤后,将切片放置在饱和溶液(在含0.05%吐温20的PBS(磷酸盐缓冲盐水)中稀释至10%的脱脂奶)中以封闭非特异性位点。在洗涤后,将切片于环境温度(AT)用初级抗体(Abcam)的稀释液孵育1小时。在孵育结束时,将切片再次洗涤,于AT在暗处用与Alexa fluor 568荧光染料偶联的第二抗体(Invitrogen)孵育1小时。在进一步洗涤后,于AT在暗处用Hoechst试剂(Sigma)稀释液进行核染色达15分钟。随后将切片冲洗最后一次,然后采用适宜的介质(荧光固定介质,DakoCytomation)固定在载玻片和盖玻片之间。
最后,在正置落射荧光显微镜(T Nikon Eclipse 50I)下观察外植物的表皮部分,获得数码相片(×20和/或×40物镜)。
结果分析:
采用Lucia软件对成像进行分析以确定表皮内存活蛋白阳性细胞的相对比例。
采用下述计算式确定阳性角质形成细胞的百分比:K_存活蛋白+(%)=(存活蛋白数目+角质形成细胞/表皮中核数目)×100。
然后根据在未经处理的(PA)组、未经处理的(PJ)组和经处理的A组(TA组)(R,椰油酰基丙氨酸或棕榈酰基甘氨酸)中获得的%K_存活蛋白+值采用下述计算式计算出恢复百分比:
结果:
表1给出了用包括含有参比活性成分的制备物在内的三种制备物获得的数据。
表1:活性成分对表达存活细胞的基底角质形成细胞比例的恢复作用
*相对于安慰剂A而言具有统计学显著性的结果(具有不等变异的双侧Student′s检验):p<0.05
用安慰剂制备物处置的年轻外植物(PJ)呈现出的表达存活细胞的角质形成细胞(Surv+)的比例在统计学上高于在用相同安慰剂制备物处理的较年长外植物(PA)中观察到的比例。因此,这些结果验证了作为皮肤老化模型的模型关联性。
与用安慰剂制备物处理的外植物相比,含有参比分子的制备物没有引起表达存活蛋白的角质形成细胞的比例有任何统计学上显著的改变。该结果与缺少与该活性成分对表皮干细胞的作用相关的数据相一致。
与用安慰剂制备物处理的外植物相比,含有棕榈酰基甘氨酸和椰油酰基丙氨酸的制备物引起表达存活蛋白的角质形成细胞的比例有统计学上显著的增加。因而,它们分别具有277%和567%的恢复作用。
结论:
棕榈酰基甘氨酸和椰油酰基丙氨酸对表达存活蛋白的角质形成细胞的比例具有有益作用。因此,它们使得能够维持表皮干细胞的存活。
本发明的N-酰基氨基酸的“抗皱”效力的体内证明
方案
为了对呈现皮肤老化皱纹的45-76岁的高加索人个体(约20名志愿者/组)的脸部进行每日两次局部应用,将所测试的N-酰基氨基酸配制成在乳化剂对MontanovTM 202和MontanovTM 82、增稠剂SepiplusTM 400和MontanoxTM 60D中的1%乳膏凝胶。
为本研究所选的解剖区域是眼周围区域(鱼尾纹)。
治疗期为42天。
以前已经通过将测试配制物贴剂应用48小时证明了没有皮肤刺激性。
结果
与安慰剂相比,重复和一天两次应用含有棕榈酰基甘氨酸和椰油酰基丙氨酸的制备物引起皱纹数分别减少40%和36%。
美容制备物实施例
实施例1
成分 | % |
水 | 适量 |
甘油 | 5 |
氯苯甘油醚 | 0.3 |
MontanovTM 202 | 2 |
MontanovTM 82 | 1 |
LanolTM P | 1.5 |
植物角鲨烷 | 7 |
聚异丁烯 | 13 |
KetrolTM T | 0.15 |
N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸 | 1 |
MontanoxTM 60DF | 0.5 |
SepiplusTM 400 | 0.8 |
SepicideTM LD | 0.7 |
芳香剂 | 0.1 |
三乙醇胺在水中的50%溶液 | 0.15 |
实施例2
成分 | % |
水 | 适量 |
甘油 | 5 |
氯苯甘油醚 | 0.3 |
MontanovTM 202 | 2 |
MontanovTM 82 | 1 |
LanolTM P | 1.5 |
植物角鲨烷 | 7 |
聚异丁烯 | 13 |
KetrolTM T | 0.15 |
N-椰油酰基丙氨酸 | 1 |
MontanoxTM 60DF | 0.5 |
SepiplusTM 400 | 0.8 |
SepicideTM LD | 0.7 |
芳香剂 | 0.1 |
三乙醇胺在水中的50%溶液 | 0.15 |
实施例3
成分 | % |
水 | 适量 |
甘油 | 5 |
氯苯甘油醚 | 0.3 |
MontanovTM 202 | 2 |
MontanovTM 82 | 1 |
LanolTM P | 1.5 |
植物角鲨烷 | 7 |
聚异丁烯 | 13 |
KetrolTM T | 0.15 |
N-椰油酰基丙氨酸 | 1 |
N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸 | 1 |
MontanoxTM 60DF | 0.5 |
SepiplusTM 400 | 0.8 |
SepicideTM LD | 0.7 |
芳香剂 | 0.1 |
三乙醇胺在水中的50%溶液 | 0.15 |
下文给出了用作成分的商品的定义:
KetrolTM T是Kelco公司出售的黄原胶。
LanolTM P是SEPPIC公司出售的具有稳定作用的添加剂。
MontanoxTM 60DF:SEPPIC公司出售的用20mol环氧乙烷进行聚乙氧基化的硬脂山梨坦;
MontanovTM 82是基于十六十八醇和椰油酰葡糖苷的乳化剂;
MontanovTM 202(二十烷基葡糖苷、花生醇+山萮醇)是SEPPIC公司出售的自乳化组合物,例如WO 98/17610中记载的那些;
SepicideTM LD:SEPPIC公司出售的防腐剂;
SepiplusTM 400:INCI名:聚丙烯酸酯13/聚异丁烯/聚山梨酯20。
说明书中引用的参考文献
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Claims (12)
1.选自N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和N-椰油酰基丙氨酸的N-酰基氨基酸作为调节表达存活蛋白的核形式的人皮肤表皮的基底角质形成细胞的比例的活性剂的用途。
2.选自N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和N-椰油酰基丙氨酸的N-酰基氨基酸在实施用于维持人皮肤表皮的干细胞存活的治疗性方法中的用途。
3.如权利要求1或2任一项所定义的用途,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸。
4.如权利要求1或2任一项所定义的用途,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸。
5.如权利要求1或2任一项所定义的用途,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸。
6.如权利要求1或2任一项所定义的用途,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-椰油酰基丙氨酸。
7.用于维持人皮肤表皮的干细胞存活的非治疗性处置人体的方法,其特征在于给其应用含有美容学上可接受的介质和有效量的至少一种选自N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和N-椰油酰基丙氨酸的N-酰基氨基酸的组合物。
8.如权利要求7所定义的方法,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸。
9.如权利要求7所定义的方法,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸。
10.如权利要求7所定义的方法,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸。
11.如权利要求7所定义的方法,其中N-酰基氨基酸是N-椰油酰基丙氨酸。
12.“抗老化”美容用组合物,其特征在于其包含0.01%至10%质量、更特别是0.1%至5%重量、更特别是1%至5%质量的选自N-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、N-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、N-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和N-椰油酰基丙氨酸的化合物。
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Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR0855901 | 2008-09-03 | ||
FR0855901A FR2935379B1 (fr) | 2008-09-03 | 2008-09-03 | Utilisation de n-acyl aminoacides comme principe actifs cosmetiques et pharmaceutiques, regulateurs de la proportion de keratinocytes basaux de l'epiderme de la peau humaine exprimant la forme nucleaire de la survivine ; compositions |
PCT/FR2009/051490 WO2010026325A1 (fr) | 2008-09-03 | 2009-07-24 | Utilisation d'un n-acyl amino acide choisi parmi le n-palmitoyl alanine, n-palmitoyl glycine, le n-palmitoyl isoleucine et le n-cocoyl alanine, comme actif regulateur de la proportion de keratinocytes basaux de l'epiderme de la peau humaine exprimant la forme nucleaire de la survivine; composition cosmetique anti-age en comportant |
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CN102137652A true CN102137652A (zh) | 2011-07-27 |
CN102137652B CN102137652B (zh) | 2013-07-24 |
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CN2009801337787A Active CN102137652B (zh) | 2008-09-03 | 2009-07-24 | 选自n-棕榈酰基丙氨酸、n-棕榈酰基甘氨酸、n-棕榈酰基异亮氨酸和n-椰油酰基丙氨酸的n-酰基氨基酸作为调控表达存活蛋白的核形式的人皮肤表皮的基底角质形成细胞的比例的活性剂的用途以及含有其的抗老化美容用组合物 |
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EP (1) | EP2331056B1 (zh) |
KR (1) | KR101652541B1 (zh) |
CN (1) | CN102137652B (zh) |
FR (1) | FR2935379B1 (zh) |
WO (1) | WO2010026325A1 (zh) |
Cited By (1)
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CN105708726A (zh) * | 2014-12-17 | 2016-06-29 | 金周垣 | 用于保湿及增加弹力的无支撑体水分贴剂 |
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FR2965479B1 (fr) | 2010-09-30 | 2012-09-28 | Seppic Sa | Nouvelles emulsions cosmetiques eau-dans-huile comprenant des derives n-acyle de haut point de fusion et procedes pour leurs preparations |
FR2971941B1 (fr) * | 2011-02-24 | 2013-08-02 | Physica Pharma | Compositions pharmaceutiques administrables par voie cutanee et destinees au traitement local de la dermatite atopique canine |
FR2971943B1 (fr) * | 2011-02-24 | 2013-08-02 | Physica Pharma | Compositions pharmaceutiques a action locale administrables par application cutanee |
FR2986967A1 (fr) * | 2012-02-16 | 2013-08-23 | Svr Rech | Combinaison de n-cocoyl alanine et d'un extrait de cellules dedifferenciees de malus domestica |
Citations (1)
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FR2192795A1 (zh) * | 1972-07-17 | 1974-02-15 | Thomae Gmbh Dr K |
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US4016287A (en) * | 1972-07-17 | 1977-04-05 | Boehringer Ingelheim Gmbh | Dermatological compositions containing an acylamino-carboxylic acid or an alkyl ester thereof |
DK255889D0 (da) | 1989-05-25 | 1989-05-25 | Novo Nordisk As | Fremgangsmaade til fremstilling af organiske forbindelser |
GB8918709D0 (en) | 1989-08-16 | 1989-09-27 | Unilever Plc | Cosmetic composition |
FR2787323B1 (fr) | 1998-12-22 | 2003-02-14 | Seppic Sa | Utilisation de composes n-acyles d'aminoacides comme agent de texture |
US20050019356A1 (en) * | 2003-07-25 | 2005-01-27 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Regulation of mammalian keratinous tissue using N-acyl amino acid compositions |
US7374783B2 (en) * | 2004-07-27 | 2008-05-20 | Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. | Powders coated with specific lipoamino acid composition and cosmetics containing the same |
US8758838B2 (en) * | 2005-08-31 | 2014-06-24 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. | Anti-inflammatory compositions and methods of use |
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2008
- 2008-09-03 FR FR0855901A patent/FR2935379B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
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2009
- 2009-07-24 KR KR1020117004925A patent/KR101652541B1/ko active IP Right Grant
- 2009-07-24 WO PCT/FR2009/051490 patent/WO2010026325A1/fr active Application Filing
- 2009-07-24 EP EP09740376.0A patent/EP2331056B1/fr active Active
- 2009-07-24 CN CN2009801337787A patent/CN102137652B/zh active Active
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FR2192795A1 (zh) * | 1972-07-17 | 1974-02-15 | Thomae Gmbh Dr K |
Cited By (1)
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CN105708726A (zh) * | 2014-12-17 | 2016-06-29 | 金周垣 | 用于保湿及增加弹力的无支撑体水分贴剂 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR2935379B1 (fr) | 2012-08-31 |
EP2331056A1 (fr) | 2011-06-15 |
EP2331056B1 (fr) | 2015-09-02 |
CN102137652B (zh) | 2013-07-24 |
KR101652541B1 (ko) | 2016-08-30 |
KR20110059844A (ko) | 2011-06-07 |
FR2935379A1 (fr) | 2010-03-05 |
WO2010026325A1 (fr) | 2010-03-11 |
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