CN101994195B - Elastic fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents
Elastic fabric and production method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN101994195B CN101994195B CN200910170470.1A CN200910170470A CN101994195B CN 101994195 B CN101994195 B CN 101994195B CN 200910170470 A CN200910170470 A CN 200910170470A CN 101994195 B CN101994195 B CN 101994195B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 86
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 10
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 abstract description 28
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 abstract description 18
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 abstract description 12
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 abstract description 3
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L terephthalate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 7
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 6
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 6
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 5
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000000205 computational method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000008602 contraction Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920004934 Dacron® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000002745 absorbent Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002250 absorbent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012938 design process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001971 elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000806 elastomer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002521 macromolecule Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002940 repellent Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000630 rising effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009955 starching Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
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- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses an elastic fabric and a production method thereof. Single-component polyester elastic yarns are selected in at least one direction of the warp direction or the weft direction of the fabric; and the component of the polyester elastic yarns is polyethylene glycol terephthalate. The method comprises the following steps of: performing high-elastic false twisting processing on single-component polyester precursors; taking the prepared elastic yarns as warp yarns and/or weft yarns for weaving so as to prepare a gray fabric; and dyeing, finishing and processing the gray fabric so as to produce the finished product. The single-component yarn elastic fabric is easy to process, low in cost and excellent in elasticity.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of fabric, be specifically related to a kind of elastic fabric.
Background technology
During the preparation elastic fabric, realize the elasticity of fabric except adopting traditional spandex-coated yarn, can also realize the elasticity of fabric by the bicomponent fiber that adopts novel elastomer such as PTT/PET, the bicomponent fiber of PET/PET different viscosities composition, but adopt these raw materials all will realize through engineerings such as pre-settings the stability of product in the dyeing process, so also just increased cost, the product range of application has certain limitation.
The bicomponent fiber that adopts exactly in the patents such as CN200710143441.7 is realized the elasticity of polyester textile.Bi-component yarn just has certain limitation and cost costliness at first from raw material sources, only has at present the large enterprises such as Du Pont, shell to have this technology, has so also just limited its extensive popularization; In addition, when adopting bi-component yarn to produce elastic fabric, in Fabric Design and process, thereby need to adopt Looms and HEAT SETTING machine to realize that the contraction of fabric gives fabric elasticity, just cause so also that equipment is complicated, operation is difficult for.In addition in the patent of publication number CN101173407, the blended yarn that a kind of employing contains the high-shrinkage polyester yarn is disclosed, the Tinily elastic fabric that obtains by the damp and hot shrink process to yarn, but along with the development of society, the fabric elasticity that obtains by this technique can not satisfy people highlyer takes requirement.People require inexpensive in, the requirement of fabric elasticity aspect is also become higher.Many the above, also just simple in the urgent need to developing a kind of technique, the high elastic fabric that cost is low.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of employing one pack system elastomeric yarn, processing technology is simple, cost is low, the elastic fabric of excellent spring and production method thereof.The elasticity of fabric of the present invention can match in excellence or beauty with the elasticity of bicomponent fiber fabric.
The warp-wise of elastic fabric of the present invention or broadwise have at least a direction select boiling water shrinkage 4～9%, crimp recovery (CR value) is at 30～55% one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn, and its spring rate is 10～40%, elastic recovery rate is 90～100%, and the tightness of this fabric reaches 2500～4000.Wherein, the composition of one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn is polyethylene terephthalate.The spring rate here and elastic recovery rate refer to contain spring rate and the elastic recovery rate of the elasticity direction of one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn.
In the Fabric Design process, can adopt any tissue, consider the shrink space of yarn, twill, satin weave or various backed weave are preferably adopted in flexible performance.
The production method of elastic fabric of the present invention comprises the steps:
(a) yarn preparation
At first the polyester raw material of one pack system carried out high-elastic false twisting processing, due to one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn be subject in the preparation temperature, speed, drawing-off multiplying power and false twist tension impact larger, so it is that 180～215 ℃, the second heater temperature are normal temperature that drawing-off multiplying power of the present invention is controlled at 1.5～2.2 times, the first heater temperature, finally make boiling water shrinkage and be 4～9%, the CR value is 30～55% one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn.Fabric of the present invention adopts the above-mentioned one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn with higher elastic recovery rate, reaches at 2500～4000 o'clock at fabric compactness, and fabric still has higher elasticity and good elastic recovery rate.
The present invention can use direct contact type or mediate contact formula false twisting machine, preferred direct contact type false twisting machine.The false twisting technological parameter that the below processes formula with regard to direct contact heat describes: the POY that raw material adopts high speed spinning to make, can adopt common round section POY, also can adopt the section POY with moisture-absorbing and fast-drying function, can also adopt the compound cross-section POY (example: round section 145dtex-36f-SDY with resisting ultraviolet radiation, section 84dtex-48f-SDY, island compound cross-section 290dtex-72f-KDY).
Drawing-off multiplying power of the present invention is 1.5～2.2 times, preferred 1.6～2.0 times, considers the relation of denier count as received and drawing-off multiplying power, more preferably 1.7～1.8 times.The first heater temperature of false twisting machine is 180～215 ℃, and the second heater temperature is normal temperature.Because temperature plays heat setting action to yarn, temperature is higher, and in yarn, the degree of crystallinity of macromolecule raw material is also just higher, and the CR value of yarn can diminish.When temperature surpassed 215 ℃, the CR value of prepared yarn only had 10%, can not satisfy the needs of elastic fabric; During lower than 180 ℃, well below the fusing point of polyster fibre, the yarn property of making is unstable, preferred 190～210 ℃ of the first heater temperature, more preferably 200～205 ℃ when temperature.The rule of false twisting speed and temperature is identical, when speed is too low, the CR value presents the trend of rising in certain limit, such as when speed during lower than 200m/min, the CR value of yarn can reach more than 60%, although the CR value can be good at embodying the elasticity of fabric at the yarn more than 60%, elasticity is crossed the wearability that conference reduces fabric, is unfavorable for the raising of production efficiency; If false twisting speed is too high, the unstable properties of yarn.The speed of false twisting machine of the present invention is 200～400m/min, preferred 300～400m/min.When false twist tension is selected, mainly consider filoplume and the quality of final processed goods yarn, the ratio of general backtwisting tension force and twisting tension is 0.8～1.2.Obtain by above-mentioned condition that boiling water shrinkage is 4～9%, the one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn of CR value 30～55%.
(b) weave
The one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn that optional step (a) makes is weaved as warp thread and/or weft yarn, makes grey cloth, and the tightness of grey cloth is 1500～3500;
Weaving here mainly comprises warping, starching and axle, the denting of gaiting, weave cotton cloth, the process such as grey cloth inspection.
When the polyester elastomeric yarn in step (a) was used as warp thread, the rate of sizing was more than 6% and warp tension is below 0.18N/dtex.Loom is not particularly limited, preferred jet or water jet looms.The door width of loom also is not particularly limited.The warp tension of each technical process all is controlled at below 0.18N/dtex, and purpose is to allow yarn bear minimum tension force in each process, keeps good elasticity and the elastic recovery rate of processing yarn.
The preferred twill of fabric tissue, satin weave or various backed weave.
(c) arrange processing after
Grey cloth to step (b) carries out rear arrangement processing, makes finished product.The major project of rear arrangement processing is: refining (80～100 ℃) → lax humid heat treatment (95～135 ℃) → drying (100～150 ℃) → decrement → wrinkle processing → dyeing → functional treatment → arrangement typing.
Wherein the temperature of lax humid heat treatment is 95～135 ℃, preferred 95～110 ℃.Yarn raw material of the present invention is the polyester dacron elastomeric yarn, in the dyeing process, do not need to use as 130～180 ℃ of the dry heat treatment temperature used in patent CN101357980A, directly adopt the common temperature of 95～135 ℃ to relax to carry out dyeing terylene after humid heat treatment just can obtain elastic fabric.Adopting lax humid heat treatment the elasticity of one pack system polyester yarn can be brought into play is also the key of technology.
Refining: when the polyester elastomeric yarn uses as warp thread, adopted the rate of sizing more than 6%, therefore in the dyeing process, fabric being carried out destarch processes, the condition of destarch adopts and the same or analogous condition of ordinary polyester fabric, be specially: 80～100 ℃ of temperature, alkaline agent concentration 5～10g/l, refining agent concentration 4～12g/l, speed 20～80m/min.For adopting simultaneously through weft yarn in the situation of one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn, fabric passes through the humid heat treatment of above 95～100 ℃, and the elastic effect of fabric is better.
Lax humid heat treatment: for adopting in warp thread or weft yarn one direction fabric in the situation of one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn, be subject to the restriction of other direction yarn due to yarn, so fabric is carried out the humid heat treatment of 100～110 ℃, the one pack system polyester yarn can fully be shunk under the high temperature hyther and be made the elastic effect of fabric better.
Dry: grey cloth needing through lax dry heat treatment engineering before the alkali decrement treatment to be carried out, and its treatment temperature is 100～150 ℃, namely to grey cloth adopt low-tension or tension-free drying mode through broadwise, be conducive to like this carrying out of lower road engineering.
Decrement: purpose is to improve the flexibility of fabric.Reduction rate will require according to the feel of fabric and the yarn selection of species is decided, and general reduction rate is between 0～25%.
Wrinkle processing: adopt temperature to process at the airflow machine more than 120 ℃ and make fabric face have the wrinkle effect.
Dyeing: adopt the lax dyeing of liquid stream of 120～135 ℃.
Functional treatment: for the soft feel that improves fabric can increase super-soft processing in this engineering; Maybe can carry out other functional treatments.Such as: antistatic finish, water repellent finish, hard finishing, water absorb finishing etc.
Arrange typing: in order to improve dimensional stability for fabric and to obtain better cloth cover effect, fabric is arranged typing.In order to guarantee the elasticity of fabric, setting temperature is 130～180 ℃, preferred 130～160 ℃.
The spring rate of fabric elasticity direction of the present invention is 10～40%, elastic recovery rate is 90～100%.The fabrics feel soft that technique of the present invention is simple, production cost is low, make.Also can make fabric have the functions such as water absorbent quick-drying, radiation proof by different functional treatments; Also can obtain multicolour effect in appearance.
The specific embodiment
In the present invention, the method for testing of each physical property is as follows:
[fabric elasticity rate and elastic recovery rate]
The tensile elasticity test method FZ/T 01062-1999 of stretch woven fabrics
[boiling water shrinkage]
Method of testing: after yarn is processed through 20min in 100 ℃ of boiling water, with respect to length of yarn shrinking percentage before processing.
Computational methods:
Boiling water shrinkage (%)=(L
0-L)/L
0* 100
L
0: specimen length (mm) before boiling water treating
L: specimen length after boiling water treating (mm)
[CR value]
Method of testing: after yarn is processed through 90 ℃ of * 20min, in the situation that bear some tension (bearing just loading) length of yarn and bear more hightension (bear just loading and decide loading) situation yarn under working contraction of length percentage.
Computational methods:
CR value (%)=(L-L
1)/L*100
L: decide the length (mm) after the load state yarn under working extends in normal-temperature water
L
1: the length (mm) after when deciding to bear just loading after loading is removed, yarn extends in normal-temperature water
Just loading is 0.004g/dtex* fiber number * length
Deciding loading is 0.2g/dtex* fiber number * length
Embodiment 1
at first (composition is polyethylene terephthalate to 290dtex-72f-SDY, circular cross section) carry out high-elastic false twisting processing, wherein, the drawing-off multiplying power is 1.7 times, the first heater temperature is 205 ℃, the second heater temperature is normal temperature, making boiling water shrinkage is 5.5%, the CR value is 35% 166dtex-72f-one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn, then with it as using through weft yarn, adopt 2/2 twill left to right, 110/inch of 138/inch* of warp-wise broadwise weaves on water jet looms, in weaving process, the warp sizing rate is 8%, and the warp tension of false twisting machine is 0.16N/dtex, make grey cloth, the tightness of grey cloth is 3037.Above-mentioned grey cloth is carried out rear arrangement processing, obtain finished product by refining → drying → decrement → wrinkle processing → dyeing → functional treatment → arrangement typing.
Wherein arranging afterwards processing conditions is:
Refining (high temperature humid heat treatment): 95 ℃ of temperature, speed 60m/min, the time of staying 10～15s
Dry: temperature 130C, speed 40m/min, time of staying 40s, wire guide drying mode
Decrement: alkaline agent concentration 35%, reduction rate 12%
Wrinkle processing: 132 ℃ of * 20min air-flows are processed
Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine to dye, 1～2 ℃/min of programming rate, 130 ℃ * 30min of the highest temperature, 1～2 ℃/min of cooling rate, bath raio 1: 20, nozzle gap 80/2, valve opening 5, dyestuff used are DISPERSE DYES
Functional treatment: adopt antistatic resin and softener
Arrange typing: 160 ℃ of setting temperatures, speed 50m/min, wind speed 30Hz, setting fabric width 142cm, final fabric width 142cm
The warp-wise spring rate that adopts one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn in the finished product that finally makes is 15%, elastic recovery rate is 94%; The broadwise elasticity that adopts one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn is 25%, elastic recovery rate is 92%; The tightness of fabric is 3841.
Embodiment 2
at first (composition is CD PET to 290dtex-72f-KDY, compound fabric of island-in-sea type section) carry out high-elastic false twisting processing, wherein, the drawing-off multiplying power is 1.8 times, the first heater temperature is 190 ℃, the second heater temperature is normal temperature, making boiling water shrinkage is 8%, the CR value is 48% 150dtex-36f-one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn, then it is used as weft yarn, warp thread adopts 83dtex-144f-DTY (PET), adopt 3/3 twill left to right, weave on 110/inch of 210/inch* of warp-wise broadwise water jet looms and make grey cloth, the tightness of grey cloth is 3165.Above-mentioned grey cloth is carried out rear arrangement processing, obtain finished product by concise → high temperature humid heat treatment → wrinkle processing → dyeing → functional treatment → arrangement typing.Wherein high temperature humid heat treatment condition is 110 ℃ of * 10min, and all the other conditions are with embodiment 1.
The broadwise elasticity that adopts one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn in the finished product that finally makes is 17%, elastic recovery rate is 93%; Fabric compactness is 3840.
Embodiment 3
at first (composition is polyethylene terephthalate to 84dtx-48f-TSCY, special-shaped cross section) carry out high-elastic false twisting processing, wherein, the drawing-off multiplying power is 2.1 times, the first heater temperature is 210 ℃, the second heater temperature is normal temperature, making boiling water shrinkage is 6.5%, the CR value is 38% elastomeric yarn, it is used as warp thread, weft yarn adopts 50dtex-48f moisture absorption yarn, adopt 3/1 twill left to right, 110/inch of 138/inch* of warp-wise broadwise weaves on water jet looms, the rate of sizing of warp thread is 8%, on machine, warp tension is 0.16N/dtex, make grey cloth, the tightness of grey cloth is 1753.Above-mentioned grey cloth is carried out rear arrangement processing, and wherein finishing functions adopts water-absorbing resins.All the other conditions are with embodiment 2.
The warp-wise elasticity that adopts one pack system polyester elastomeric yarn in the finished product that finally makes is 12%, elastic recovery rate is 92%; Fabric compactness is 2630.
Claims (4)
1. elastic fabric, it is characterized in that: the warp-wise of this fabric or broadwise have that a direction selects that boiling water shrinkage is 4～9% at least, crimp recovery is 30～55% one pack system polyethylene terephthalate elastomeric yarn, and spring rate on one pack system polyethylene terephthalate elastomeric yarn direction is 10～40% to this fabric, elastic recovery rate is 90～100% containing, and the tightness of this fabric reaches 2500～4000.
2. the production method of the described elastic fabric of claim 1, is characterized in that: comprise the steps:
(a) yarn preparation
At first one pack system polyethylene terephthalate raw material is carried out high-elastic false twisting processing, its drawing-off multiplying power is that 1.5～2.2 times, the first heater temperature are that 180～215 ℃, the second heater temperature are normal temperature, the speed of false twisting machine is 200～400m/min, makes boiling water shrinkage and be 4～9%, crimp recovery is 30～55% one pack system polyethylene terephthalate elastomeric yarn;
(b) weave
The one pack system polyethylene terephthalate elastomeric yarn of optional step (a) is weaved as warp thread and/or weft yarn, makes grey cloth, and the tightness of grey cloth is 1500～3500;
(c) arrange processing after
Grey cloth to step (b) carries out rear arrangement processing, adopts lax humid heat treatment in rear arrangement processing, and its treatment temperature is 95～135 ℃, makes finished product.
3. the production method of elastic fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that: in described step (a), the drawing-off multiplying power is that 1.6～2.0 times, the first heater temperature are 190～210 ℃.
4. the production method of elastic fabric according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: described lax humid heat treatment temperature is 95～110 ℃.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN200910170470.1A CN101994195B (en) | 2009-08-21 | 2009-08-21 | Elastic fabric and production method thereof |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN200910170470.1A CN101994195B (en) | 2009-08-21 | 2009-08-21 | Elastic fabric and production method thereof |
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| CN101994195A CN101994195A (en) | 2011-03-30 |
| CN101994195B true CN101994195B (en) | 2013-06-12 |
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| CN200910170470.1A Expired - Fee Related CN101994195B (en) | 2009-08-21 | 2009-08-21 | Elastic fabric and production method thereof |
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| CN106521770A (en) * | 2015-09-10 | 2017-03-22 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Elastic fabric |
Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002069789A (en) * | 2000-09-05 | 2002-03-08 | Asahi Kasei Corp | Woven fabric for artificial leather and artificial leather |
| CN1429291A (en) * | 2000-05-18 | 2003-07-09 | 旭化成株式会社 | Dyed yarn |
| CN101177828A (en) * | 2006-11-10 | 2008-05-14 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Polybutylene terephthalate fiber elastic fabric |
| CN101445964A (en) * | 2008-10-24 | 2009-06-03 | 罗冬英 | Twisted polyester fiber specially used for fusible interlining, preparation method and application thereof |
-
2009
- 2009-08-21 CN CN200910170470.1A patent/CN101994195B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1429291A (en) * | 2000-05-18 | 2003-07-09 | 旭化成株式会社 | Dyed yarn |
| JP2002069789A (en) * | 2000-09-05 | 2002-03-08 | Asahi Kasei Corp | Woven fabric for artificial leather and artificial leather |
| CN101177828A (en) * | 2006-11-10 | 2008-05-14 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Polybutylene terephthalate fiber elastic fabric |
| CN101445964A (en) * | 2008-10-24 | 2009-06-03 | 罗冬英 | Twisted polyester fiber specially used for fusible interlining, preparation method and application thereof |
Non-Patent Citations (3)
| Title |
|---|
| 周召勇.替代氨纶使用的涤纶DTY的研制.《纺织科技进展》.2006,(第6期),第38页-第39页. |
| 替代氨纶使用的涤纶DTY的研制;周召勇;《纺织科技进展》;20061231(第6期);第38-39页 * |
| 郭腊梅.纺织品的一般整理.《纺织品整理学》.中国纺织出版社,2005,第274页. * |
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| CN101994195A (en) | 2011-03-30 |
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Effective date of registration: 20170317 Address after: 226009 Jiangsu province Nantong Ruixing economic and Technological Development Zone, Road No. 301 Patentee after: TORAY SAKAI WEAVING & DYEING (NANTONG) Co.,Ltd. Address before: 226009 Nantong Province Economic and Technological Development Zone, the New South Road, No. 58, No. Patentee before: TORAY FIBERS & TEXTILES RESEARCH LABORATORIES (CHINA) Co.,Ltd. |
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