CN101117750B - Polyester multiplex yarns doubling type widthwise elastic wool fabric and method for making same - Google Patents

Polyester multiplex yarns doubling type widthwise elastic wool fabric and method for making same Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101117750B
CN101117750B CN2007101219478A CN200710121947A CN101117750B CN 101117750 B CN101117750 B CN 101117750B CN 2007101219478 A CN2007101219478 A CN 2007101219478A CN 200710121947 A CN200710121947 A CN 200710121947A CN 101117750 B CN101117750 B CN 101117750B
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yarn
doubling
wool
silk
compound
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CN101117750A (en
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肖红
施楣梧
王府梅
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Quartermaster Research Institute of General Logistics Department of CPLA
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Quartermaster Research Institute of General Logistics Department of CPLA
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Abstract

The present invention relates to a polyester composite filament parallel-thread type latitudinal elastic wool fabric and its preparing method. The fabric is characterized in that composite yarns formed by paralleling threads of PET and PTT polyester composite filaments and wool or wool blended fine yarns are used as the latitudinal yarns; the PET and PTT polyester composite filaments are dope-dyed or white self-curly; the wool fabric has 5-40 percent tensile elasticity in the latitudinal direction. The fabric has the advantages of stable and durable elasticity, strong wool feeling as well as simple and convenient processing.

Description

Polyester compound filament and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind ofly be weft yarn, have broadwise elastic wool fabric of 5-40% tensile elasticity and preparation method thereof, belong to the novel textile material field with white or original liquid coloring polyester compound filament.
Background technology
Existing woollen broadwise elastic fabric is generally realized by the cladded yarn that adopts hair (or wool blend) yarn coating elastomer such as spandex (as Lycra), polyolefin (as the XLA fiber of DOW company) to form.The shortcoming that this class elastomer is used is: can not use by naked silk, must just can have practical value as heart yarn by other fibre-coated; Need special cladded yarn equipment just can process, and work flow is long, elasticity is difficult to control evenly; Simultaneously, there is shortcoming easily lax when repeatedly using repeatedly, poor chemical stability in such elastic fabric.
Summary of the invention
One of purpose of the present invention provides a kind of broadwise elastic wool fabric simple, that chemical stability is good, elasticity is lasting of processing.
Above-mentioned purpose of the present invention reaches by the following technical programs:
A kind of polyester compound filament and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric, it is characterized in that: the composite yarn that PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PTT (polytrimethylene terephthalate) polyester compound filament and hair or wool blended spun yarn form by doubling, twisting back is as weft yarn, and described PET and PTT polyester compound filament are original liquid coloring or white self-crimped filament yarn; Described woolen broadwise has the tensile elasticity of 5-40%.
A kind of optimal technical scheme is characterized in that: the compositely proportional of described PET and PTT polyester compound filament is 60/40.
A kind of optimal technical scheme is characterized in that: the fineness of the self-crimped filament yarn of described original liquid coloring or white is in the 50-300D scope.
A kind of optimal technical scheme is characterized in that: the self-crimped filament yarn of described original liquid coloring or white and the ratio of hair or wool blended yarn are 80/20-30/70.
Another object of the present invention provides a kind of preparation method of above-mentioned broadwise elastic wool fabric.
Above-mentioned purpose of the present invention reaches by the following technical programs:
A kind of polyester compound filament and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric, its preparation process is as follows:
1) complex polyester long filament preparation: employing polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) obtain the compound white silk of fineness in the 50-300D scope with 60/40 compositely proportional by composite spinning technology; The Masterbatch that perhaps adds the Masterbatch of PET base and PTT base in spinning process respectively obtains the compound silk of the original liquid coloring of same fineness scope;
2) weft yarn resultant yarn mode: the compound silk of compound white silk in the step 1) or original liquid coloring is carried out doubling with hair or wool blended spun yarn on doubling frame, obtain the doubling yarn;
3) weaving mode: with common wool yarn or wool blended yarn be warp thread, with step 2) hair of gained or wool blended yarn and compound white silk or compound silk doubling yarn be weft yarn, weave;
4) arranging process: realize elasticity thereby finishing process can adopt dual mode to realize that the bigger width of cloth contracts: first kind of mode, boiling on the equipment connecting, connect with the high temperature of the speed about 25m/min by 80 ℃-110 ℃ and boil groove; Perhaps single, doublely boiling on the equipment, making that under wet condition fabric width is effectively shunk realization elasticity by high temperature more than 80 ℃.The second way is finalized the design by the width of cloth that contracts and to be realized, the squezzing pre-setting makes it be retracted to certain fabric width under 135 ℃ of degree left and right sides hot conditions, the width of cloth typing of contracting again when typing eventually; Perhaps directly next step finishes the width of cloth process that contracts in hot conditions by finalizing the design eventually after wet putting in order.The heat setting temperature scope of this fabric is 170-200 ℃, and typing speed is 10-40m/min, during typing broadwise tentering size range be-10cm is to 5cm.
A kind of optimal technical scheme is characterized in that: control tension force makes compound white silk or compound former brin be in the state that stretches and do not extend described step 2), and prevents that the handle yarn from occurring.
A kind of optimal technical scheme is characterized in that: can require to twist according to fabric after the doubling described step 2), twist number range be 0-1100 sth. made by twisting/m, can use through behind the yarn steaming again.
A kind of optimal technical scheme, it is characterized in that: compound white silk or tertiary colour silk fineness described step 2) are 0.3-1.0 with the fineness proportion of hair or wool blended yarn, and the compound white silk that forms after the doubling or the ratio of compound silk/hair or wool blended yarn are 80/20-30/70.
A kind of optimal technical scheme is characterized in that: the weft yarn in the described step 3) can all be the doubling yarn, also can weave as 1: 1 with certain space ratio with hair or wool blended yarn; The woven proportion of going up the gate width of cloth and the finished product door width of cloth is 1.06-1.33.
A kind of optimal technical scheme is characterized in that: at least two of weft yarn needs in the described step 3) and above weft accumulator, use composite yarn, in order to the uniformity of control tension force and guarantee elasticity by the collocation of big or small bobbin.
Beneficial effect:
The broadwise elastic wool fabric that the present invention relates to is at the deficiency of existing weft-elastic wool fabric, having adopted does not need to handle through coating, have original liquid coloring or white PET and PTT polyester compound filament from the resilient characteristic of curling, with hair or wool blended yarn by the mode of doubling plying resultant yarn as weft yarn, make the broadwise elastic wool fabric of broadwise tensile elasticity in the 5-40% scope.Can obtain the elasticity number that needs by the control folded yarn twist, fabric compactness, postfinishing process, this fabric has the feel of wool preferably, does not need to handle through road dyeing later, and processing is simple, stable performance, and elasticity is lasting.
Broadwise elastic wool fabric of the present invention have a following advantage:
(1) easy to process simple, can all on wool spinning equipment, carry out.The composite yarn that adopts polyester composite elastic fiber and the doubling of hair (wool blend) spun yarn is as weft yarn, polyester composite elastic fiber only need be when doubling and hair (wool blend) spun yarn under certain tension force and synthetic composite yarn, can directly use through twisting or after not twisting as requested, production process is short, simple and convenient, save cost, elasticity is easy to control.
(2) adopted original liquid coloring or white polyester compound filament, the irregular phenomenon of inner/outer tube bullet of having avoided the cone dyeing operation to cause has reduced cost.
(3) be suitable for any kind and structure through the face wool fabric.Adopt the thinner polyester compound filament of hair (or wool blend) spun yarn of fineness, make polyester compound filament shrink Tsang, cause the cloth surface feel of wool strong and have broadwise elasticity in the back of hair (wool blend) yarn.
(4) connect and to boil or single, double boiling procedure that high temperature is damp and hot realizes that the width of cloth contracts, and when the typing of back, adopt stentering forming, make fabric size stable, well-pressed more.
(5) adopt the elastic wool fabric of PET/PTT polyester compound filament, have excellent chemical stability, lasting, the stable chemical performance of elasticity in use as weft yarn.
Below by embodiment the present invention is carried out concrete description, be necessary to be pointed out that at this following examples only are used for the present invention is further detailed, can not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the invention.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1:
Five piece two is flown through the face satin weave, and its preparation process is as follows:
1) complex polyester long filament preparation: employing polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) obtain the compound white silk that fineness is 65D with 60/40 compositely proportional by composite spinning technology; The master batch that perhaps adds the master batch of PET base and PTT base in spinning process respectively obtains the compound silk of same fineness scope, original liquid coloring;
2) weft yarn resultant yarn mode: with the compound silk of compound white silk in the step 1) or original liquid coloring and 790Z sth.s made by twisting/m the 90Nm/2 hair/washing 70/30 blending spun yarn carries out doubling on doubling frame, and twist the doubling yarn that obtains twist 1000S sth. made by twisting/m; Control wool yarn and line tension are that 4.82g, long filament and line tension are 2.32g, make compound white silk or compound silk be in the state that stretches and do not extend, and occur to prevent the handle yarn.Described compound white silk or compound silk fineness are 1.8 with the fineness ratio of hair or wool blended yarn, and the compound white silk that forms after the doubling or the ratio of compound silk/hair or wool blended yarn are 30/70.
3) weaving mode: with the single twist be 790Z sth. made by twisting/m, strand twist be common wool yarn or the wool blended yarn of the 90Nm/2 of 1000S sth. made by twisting/m be warp thread, with step 2) the doubling yarn of gained is weft yarn, weave.In the weaving process, weft yarn adopts two weft accumulators to carry out big or small bobbin collocation at least and weaves.The grey cloth thread count is 501 * 370/10cm.
4) arranging process: the back company's of the employing boiling procedure earlier of singing, boiling on the equipment connecting, connect with the speed of the 25m/min high temperature by 80 ℃-110 ℃ and boil groove, or boil on the equipment at Dan Shuan and under 80 ℃ of high temperature, wet condition, to make fabric width effectively be shunk.Make the fabric door width of cloth be contracted to 162cm, in follow-up wet whole operation, proceed effective width of cloth and contract tentering 1-2cm during typing; Do not boil if connect, make the door width of cloth be reduced to about 155cm during then mainly by typing.At last by reaching the finished product door width of cloth of 150cm after the decatizing operation.The finished product thread count is 585 * 385/10cm.Five piece of two broadwise tensile elasticity that flies through the face satin weave of gained is in 20%.
Embodiment 2:
Five piece two is flown through the face satin weave, and its preparation process is as follows:
1) complex polyester long filament preparation: employing polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) obtain the compound white silk that fineness is 65D with 60/40 compositely proportional by composite spinning technology; The master batch that perhaps adds the master batch of PET base and PTT base in spinning process respectively obtains the compound silk of the original liquid coloring of same fineness scope;
2) weft yarn resultant yarn mode: with the compound silk of compound white silk in the step 1) or original liquid coloring and 680Z sth. made by twisting/m the 90Nm/2 hair/washing 70/30 blending spun yarn carries out doubling on doubling frame, obtain the doubling yarn of twist 790S sth. made by twisting/m; Control wool yarn and line tension are that 4.82g, long filament and line tension are 2.32g, make compound white silk or compound silk be in the state that stretches and do not extend, and occur to prevent the handle yarn.Described compound white silk or compound silk fineness are 1.8 with the fineness ratio of hair or wool blended yarn, and the compound white silk that forms after the doubling or the ratio of compound silk/hair or wool blended yarn are 30/70.
3) weaving mode: with the single twist be 790Z sth. made by twisting/m, strand twist be 1000S sth. made by twisting/m common wool yarn or the wool blended yarn of 90Nm/2 be warp thread, with step 2) the doubling yarn of gained is weft yarn, weave.In the weaving process, weft yarn adopts two weft accumulators to carry out big or small bobbin collocation at least and weaves.The grey cloth thread count is 501 * 370/10cm.
4) arranging process: the back company's of the employing boiling procedure earlier of singing, boiling on the equipment connecting, connect with the speed of the 25m/min high temperature by 80 ℃-110 ℃ and boil groove, or boil on the equipment at Dan Shuan and under 95 ℃ of high temperature, wet condition, to make fabric width effectively be shunk.Make the fabric door width of cloth be contracted to 162cm, in follow-up wet whole operation, proceed effective width of cloth and contract tentering 1-2cm during typing; Do not boil if connect, make the door width of cloth be reduced to about 155cm during then mainly by typing.At last by reaching the finished product door width of cloth of 150cm after the decatizing operation.The finished product thread count is 585 * 385/10cm.Five piece of two broadwise tensile elasticity that flies through the face satin weave of gained is in 30% scope.
Embodiment 3:
2/1 serge, its preparation process is as follows:
1) complex polyester long filament preparation: employing polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) obtain the compound white silk that fineness is 120D with 60/40 compositely proportional by composite spinning technology; The master batch that perhaps adds the master batch of PET base and PTT base in spinning process respectively obtains the compound silk of the original liquid coloring of same fineness scope;
2) weft yarn resultant yarn mode: with the compound white silk in the step 1) or tertiary colour silk and warp thread for twist 680Z sth. made by twisting/m 56 Nm hairs/washing 55/45 blending spun yarn carries out doubling on doubling frame, twisting obtains the doubling yarn that the twist is 790S sth. made by twisting/m then, can use through behind the yarn steaming again; Described compound white silk or compound silk fineness are 1.2 with the fineness ratio of hair or wool blended yarn, and the compound white silk that forms after the doubling or the ratio of compound silk/hair or wool blended yarn are 80/20.
3) weaving mode: with the single twist be 680Z sth. made by twisting/m, strand twist be 790S sth. made by twisting/m the 56Nm/2 hair to wash 55/45 blended yarn be warp thread, with step 2) the doubling yarn of gained is weft yarn, weave.The grey cloth thread count is 270 * 240/10cm.Need four weft accumulators in this step, composite yarn is used by the collocation of big or small bobbin, in order to the uniformity of control tension force and guarantee elasticity.
4) arranging process: under 135 ℃ of left and right sides hot conditions, carry out the squezzing pre-setting, make it be retracted to 160cm-165cm, the width of cloth typing of when finalizing the design eventually, contracting again; Perhaps after wet putting in order, directly finish the width of cloth process that contracts by the step of finalizing the design eventually.The heat setting temperature scope of this fabric is 170-200 ℃, and typing speed is 20-40m/min, during typing broadwise tentering size range be-5cm is to 3cm.The finished product thread count is 318 * 251/10cm, fabric width 150cm.The broadwise tensile elasticity of gained 2/1 serge is in 30% scope.
Embodiment 4:
2/1 serge, its preparation process is as follows:
1) complex polyester long filament preparation: adopting polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) to obtain fineness with 60/40 compositely proportional by composite spinning technology is in the 120D scope compound white; The master batch that perhaps adds the master batch of PET base and PTT base in spinning process respectively obtains the compound silk of the original liquid coloring of same fineness scope;
2) weft yarn resultant yarn mode: with the compound white silk in the step 1) or tertiary colour silk and warp thread be twist 680Z 56 Nm hairs/washing 55/45 blending spun yarn carries out doubling on doubling frame, twisting obtains the doubling yarn that the twist is 1100S sth. made by twisting/m then, can use through behind the yarn steaming again; Described compound white silk or compound silk fineness are 1.2 with the fineness proportion of hair or wool blended yarn, and the compound white silk that forms after the doubling or the ratio of compound silk/hair or wool blended yarn are 80/20.
3) weaving mode: to wash 55/45 blended yarn with the 56 Nm/2 hairs of twist 680Z/790S be warp thread, with step 2) the doubling yarn of gained is that weft yarn is weaved; The woven proportion of going up the gate width of cloth and the finished product door width of cloth is 1.06-1.33.The grey cloth thread count is 270 * 240/10cm.Need two weft accumulators in this step, composite yarn is used by the collocation of big or small bobbin, in order to the uniformity of control tension force and guarantee elasticity.
4) arranging process: under 135 ℃ of left and right sides hot conditions, carry out the squezzing pre-setting, it is retracted to about 160cm-165cm., the width of cloth typing of when finalizing the design eventually, contracting again; Perhaps after wet putting in order, directly finish the width of cloth process that contracts by the step of finalizing the design eventually.The heat setting temperature scope of this fabric is 170-200 ℃, and typing speed is 20-40m/min, during typing broadwise tentering size range be-5cm is to 3cm.The finished product thread count is 318 * 251/10cm, fabric width 150cm.The broadwise tensile elasticity is in 30% scope.

Claims (7)

1. the preparation method of polyester compound filament and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric, its step is as follows:
1) complex polyester long filament preparation: employing polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate obtain the compound white silk of fineness in the 50-300D scope with 60/40 compositely proportional by composite spinning technology; The Masterbatch that perhaps adds the Masterbatch of PET base and PTT base in spinning process respectively obtains the tertiary colour silk of the original liquid coloring of same fineness scope;
2) weft yarn resultant yarn mode: the compound white silk in the step 1) or tertiary colour silk and hair or wool blended spun yarn are carried out doubling on doubling frame, or after the doubling again twisting obtain the doubling yarn;
3) weaving mode: with common wool yarn or wool blended yarn be warp thread, with step 2) the doubling yarn of gained is weft yarn, weave;
4) arranging process: boiling on the equipment connecting, to connect with the speed of the 25m/min high temperature by 80 ℃-110 ℃ and boil groove, or to boil on the equipment at Dan Shuan and under high temperature, wet condition more than 80 ℃, to make fabric width effectively be shunk.
2. the preparation method of polyester compound filament and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric, its step is as follows:
1) complex polyester long filament preparation: employing polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate obtain the compound white silk of fineness in the 50-300D scope with 60/40 compositely proportional by composite spinning technology; The Masterbatch that perhaps adds the Masterbatch of PET base and PTT base in spinning process respectively obtains the tertiary colour silk of the original liquid coloring of same fineness scope;
2) weft yarn resultant yarn mode: the compound white silk in the step 1) or tertiary colour silk and hair or wool blended spun yarn are carried out doubling on doubling frame, or obtain the doubling yarn behind twisting or the yarn steaming after the doubling;
3) weaving mode: with common wool yarn or wool blended yarn be warp thread, with step 2) the doubling yarn of gained is weft yarn, weave;
4) arranging process: finalize the design by the width of cloth that contracts and to realize, under 135 ℃ of degree hot conditions, carry out the squezzing pre-setting, make it be retracted to 158cm-165cm, the width of cloth typing of when typing eventually, contracting again; Perhaps after wet putting in order, directly finish the width of cloth process that contracts by the step of finalizing the design eventually.
3. according to the preparation method of each described polyester compound filament in claim 1 or 2 and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric, it is characterized in that: will control tension force described step 2) and make compound white silk or tertiary colour silk be in the state that stretches and do not extend.
4. the preparation method of polyester compound filament according to claim 3 and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric is characterized in that: twist after the doubling described step 2), twist number range is a 0-1100 sth. made by twisting/rice, can use through behind the yarn steaming again.
5. the preparation method of polyester compound filament according to claim 4 and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric, it is characterized in that: compound white silk or tertiary colour silk fineness described step 2) are 1.2-1.8 with the fineness proportion of hair or wool blended yarn, and compound white silk that forms after the doubling or tertiary colour silk are 80/20-30/70 with the ratio of hair or wool blended yarn.
6. the preparation method of polyester compound filament according to claim 5 and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric is characterized in that: the weft yarn in the described step 3) all is the doubling yarn, perhaps weaves with 1: 1 space ratio with hair or wool blended yarn; The woven proportion of going up the gate width of cloth and the finished product door width of cloth is 1.06-1.33.
7. the preparation method of polyester compound filament according to claim 6 and line style broadwise elastic wool fabric, it is characterized in that: need at least two and above weft accumulator in the described step 3), composite yarn is used by the collocation of big or small bobbin, in order to the uniformity of control tension force and guarantee elasticity.
CN2007101219478A 2007-09-18 2007-09-18 Polyester multiplex yarns doubling type widthwise elastic wool fabric and method for making same Expired - Fee Related CN101117750B (en)

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CN102454004A (en) * 2010-10-25 2012-05-16 中国人民解放军总后勤部军需装备研究所 Composite elastic filament core-spun yarn fabric and preparation method thereof
CN104480569B (en) * 2014-12-31 2017-02-22 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 Polyester elastic yarn and preparation method thereof
CN113913991A (en) * 2021-10-11 2022-01-11 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Piece-dyed elastic wool fabric of functional modified polyester composite filament and preparation method thereof
CN113913995A (en) * 2021-10-11 2022-01-11 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Piece-dyed elastic wool fabric of modified polyester composite filament and preparation method thereof
CN113913994A (en) * 2021-11-09 2022-01-11 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Elastic wool fabric of functional polyester composite filament and preparation method thereof
CN114016198A (en) * 2021-11-09 2022-02-08 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Durable elastic woolen sweater made of modified polyester composite filaments and preparation method of durable elastic woolen sweater

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