CN101824699A - Production technique for lyocell-jade fiber knitted garments - Google Patents
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Abstract
The invention relates to the field of functional knitted fabrics, in particular to a production technique for lyocell-jade knitted garments. By sequentially carrying out lyocell-hanking process, refining process, lyocell-dyeing process, dehydration process, drying process, cheese-making process, lyocell-jade yarn weaving process, garment-sewing process, water washing process, dehydration process, moisture control finishing process, soft finishing process, dehydration process, drying process and steam setting process, the technique can ensure that the produced lyocell-jade knitted product not only is comfortable and beautiful but also is comfortable to wear, and in particular, because the surface contacted with the skin is undyed jade grey yarns, while being cool, the surface not only does not have harm on the skin but also has a health-care function on the kin; and the garment is particularly suitable for wearing in hot summer or during exercises.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to functional knitted fabric production field, especially the production technology of a kind of day silk, jade fiber knitting clothes.
Background technology
It silk since its have wet strength height, day silk fabrics DIMENSIONAL STABILITY better, wash that shrinkage is less, fabric sofetening, have advantage such as gloss as the silk to enjoy people's welcome.In order to improve product specification, make product reach to have multi-functional characteristic, as stiffness, elasticity, ventilative and nice and cool property etc., people also carry out blending with itself and other material when the sky silk is prepared into fabric.For example, the patent of invention notification number be CN101469480's " cotton/cotton/tencel/wool blended fabric and manufacturing technique thereof " related to a kind of cotton, day silk, wool blended textile fabric and manufacturing technique thereof, adopt cotton fiber, tencel fiber and fleece fibre blended spinning weaving yarns, its fabric tissue adopts 2/2 diversified twill tissue.Described cotton fiber, tencel fiber and fleece fibre blended spinning yarn are 14.7tex, its blending ratio is: cotton: day silk: wool=38: 38: 24, be weight percentage, what this invention was adopted is that cotton, day silk, wool are carried out the blending resultant yarn according to a certain percentage, weave then, belong to woven fabric.
Jade is liked by people from ancient times, and its quality exquisiteness is exquisitely carved.Beautiful in the medical health care effect, before several thousand, just utilized by compatriots, in the famous traditional Chinese medicine monumental work " legendary god of farming's book on Chinese herbal medicine " of China, Tang Materia Medica, the Compendium of Material Medica record was arranged all.As writing in " Compendium of Materia Medica-metal and stone portion the 8th volume ": jade have " remove pathogenic heat in the stomach, breathe heavily anxious tired depressed and discontented, grow hair, nourish the five internal organs, flexibilizing tendon and strengthening bone, quench the thirst, moisten cardiopulmonary, help larynx, pacify soul, sharp blood vessels, improve visual and auditory acuity " etc. curative effect.Contain abundant mineral matter and trace element to the human body beneficial in the jade, in the prolonged permeation human body cell, the energy microcirculation improvement enhances metabolism, thereby reaches the effect of prevent disease, allaying tiredness, is human rare health substances.
Jade fiber is utilization extraction and nanometer technology, makes jade material reach the Subnano-class level, fuses into then among the spinning melt, makes through spinning process.Jade fiber can be widely used in multiple weaving process such as knitting, woven, and it can also can purely spin with cotton, hair, silk, fiber crops and chemical fibre class short fiber blending.The patent of invention notification number be CN101363157's " a kind of jade fiber, fibre and soya, cotton fiber blended yarn woven fabric and production technology thereof " related to the production method of a kind of jade fiber, fibre and soya, cotton fiber blended woven fabric lining.Its lining is to form with jade fiber, fibre and soya, cotton fiber blending, and the shared percentage by weight of each component is in its lining: jade fiber 30～40%; Fibre and soya 20～30%; Cotton fiber 30～50%.Its production technology is: (1) jade fiber, fibre and soya, cotton fiber in cotton cleaning process, 480 rev/mins of opener hired roughneck speed, 960 rev/mins of single beater scutcher hired roughneck speed, 12 rev/mins of lap roller rotating speeds; (2) in the carding step, 360 rev/mins of cylinder speeds, 19 rev/mins of doffer speeds, 800 rev/mins of licker-in speeds; (3) in the rove operation, roving twist 3.57; In the spinning process, 13600 rev/mins of ingot speed, back zone drafting multiple 1.214; (4) in the weaving process, back beam height: 70mm; Warp stop frame height: 65mm; Opening time: 290mm.
But the technology of also not utilizing day silk and jade fiber to weave simultaneously more not in the fabric that makes of weaving with day silk and jade fiber, can also make the jade fiber that does not have dyeing in the fabric be in the technology of skin one side at present.
Summary of the invention
At above-mentioned the deficiencies in the prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide the production technology of a kind of day silk, jade fiber knitting clothes; This technology not only utilizes day silk and jade fiber to weave simultaneously, and makes the jade fiber that does not have dyeing in the fabric be in a side of skin.
To achieve these goals, technical scheme of the present invention is as follows:
The production technology of a kind of day silk, jade fiber knitting clothes, described production technology comprises following technology successively: day skein silk yarn process, refinery practice, day silk dyeing, dewatering process, stoving process, fall into cheese technology, day silk with jade weaving yarns technology, sew up GARMENT SEWING TECHNOLOGY, wash water technology, dewatering process, moisture absorbable and breathable finishing technology, soft finish technology, dewatering process, stoving process and steaming and scald setting process.
Described refinery practice is: will place temperature through the sky silk after the reeled yarn technology is 80 ℃～85 ℃ refining liquid, handles 30min～50min; Wherein said refining liquid is made up of soda ash and soap, and soda ash is 2g/L ± 0.5g/L, and soap is 1.5g/L ± 0.3g/L, and bath raio is 1: 30～40.
The silk dyeing was in described day: adopt REACTIVE DYES to dye, it is that 75 ℃ ± 5 ℃ dye liquor dyes that the sky silk is placed temperature, dyestuff is 2% ± 1% (o.w.f) in the wherein said dye liquor, also comprise anhydrous sodium sulfate (also being glauber salt) 40g/L ± 5g/L and soda ash 10g/L ± 2g/L in the dye liquor, the dye bath bath raio is 1: 20～30, the pH value is controlled at 10～11, and dyeing time is 50min.
Silk with jade weaving yarns technology was in described day: adopt twin-core shuttle mouth to carry out yarn feeding, datum hole penetrates 32s/2～42s/2 TENCEL YARNS, auxilliary hole penetrates 40s/2 jade fiber (viscose glue base) yarn, the knitting garment piece of braiding latitude plain stitch on the straight-bar machines of 12～16 plane No., making the knitting garment piece front that knits out is a day silk dyed yarn, and reverse side is the jade yarn that does not have dyeing.
Described wash water technology is: will sew up good ready-made clothes is 38 ℃ of following wash water 5min with washing liquid in temperature, wherein, comprises M-22 type detergent 5% (o.w.f.) in the described washing liquid, bath raio 1: 30, pH value of solution=7.
Described moisture absorbable and breathable finishing technology is: will at room temperature handle 10min～20min with dressing liquid through the knitted fabric of dewatering process, wherein said dressing liquid is made up of moisture control agent 20% (o.w.f) and softener 2% (o.w.f), and described softener is non-silicon class softener; Described moisture control agent model is CTC-3410C.
Described soft finish technology is: will at room temperature handle 10min～20min through the knitted fabric silicone oil softener 20% (o.w.f) of moisture absorbable and breathable finishing technology, and bath raio, 1: 10, wherein said silicone oil softener was an amino-silicone oil softening agent.
Described stoving process is: knitted fabric dehydration back is 85 ℃ ± 5 ℃ oven dry down.
Setting process is scalded in described steaming: press with steam iron, wherein said ironing temperature is 115 ℃ ± 10 ℃, time is 2min ± 1min, during flatiron, flatiron is the contact fabric face not, only, apart from about fabric side 1cm ± 0.5cm, finish heating, dewing and pressurized operation simultaneously at the fabric face jetting saturated steam.
The present invention falls into cheese with the TENCEL YARNS line earlier, adopt twin-core shuttle mouth to advance yarn together with a jade fiber (viscose glue base) yarn then, penetrate TENCEL YARNS in the datum hole, penetrate the jade yarn in the auxilliary hole, on the straight-bar machines of 12～16 plane No., weave the knitting garment piece of latitude plain stitch according to the technology of different style designs, make the knit fabric front that knits out present the coil of TENCEL YARNS line, reverse side is the coil that does not have the jade yarn of dyeing; On binding-off machine, garment piece is sewed up ready-made clothes then; At last, knit product is carried out back arrangement (wash water), soft finish, moisture absorbable and breathable finishing and steaming and scald typing.
The present invention not only production technology is simple, be fit to very much suitability for industrialized production, and having evident characteristic at aspects such as functional, comfortableness, aesthetic property, the feature of environmental protection by the knitted fabric that the present invention prepares, functional and snugness of fit such as the health care of knitted fabric, cooling has obtained good embodiment.Especially knitted fabric is the sky silk of dyeing on the one hand in the one side that deviates from skin, having the colorful outward appearance of Guan Yan, is not pass through the jade raw yarn of dyeing in the one side of pressing close to skin, on the other hand in nice and cool, has health care not only to not injury of skin, and to skin; Be particularly suitable for during the broiling summer or wear during motion.
Because jade fiber is not through the jade raw yarn of dyeing, and the jade fiber layer of fabric directly contacts with human skin in use, when having avoided dyestuff, make product also have following advantage to the injury of skin:
One, keeps healthy, contain abundant mineral matter and trace element in the jade, be attached to for a long time on the skin of human body, discharge, can improve blood microcirculation, enhance metabolism, thereby reach the effect of prevent disease, allaying tiredness the human body beneficial;
Two, cooling, with the fabric that jade fiber is made, human body sensory has cooling feeling preferably.Being particularly suitable in summer of sweltering heat or motion dress uses.Experiment showed, that fabric can be lowered the temperature 1.2～2 ℃ relatively more than 32 ℃ during temperature, be particularly suitable in summer of sweltering heat or motion dress and use.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1
The production technology of it silk, jade fiber knitting clothes:
(1), selects yarn
Select to use specification to be the TENCEL YARNS of 32s/2 and the jade fiber of 40s/2 (viscose glue base) yarn.
(2), fall reeled yarn
The sky yarn package is fallen into reeled yarn.
(3), refining
Soda ash is 2g/L, and soap is 1.5g/L, and bath raio is 1: 30, in temperature is 80 ℃ refining liquid, handles 30min.
(4), preparation dye bath
Adopt REACTIVE DYES to dye to the sky silk, dyestuff is 2% (o.w.f), and anhydrous sodium sulfate is 40g/L, and soda ash is 10g/L.
(5), dyeing, dehydration, oven dry
With dying TENCEL YARNS on the REACTIVE DYES: add anhydrous sodium sulfate and soda ash in advance, in the time of 25 ℃, yarn is soaked into, speed with 2 ℃/min is warming up to 50 ℃, add the good REACTIVE DYES 2% (o.w.f) of dissolving, insulation 15min, speed with 2 ℃/min is warming up to 75 ℃ again, insulation 50min, washing oven dry then; The pH value is controlled at 10 in the dyeing course, and bath raio is 1: 20.
The jade yarn need not dye, and directly uses raw yarn.
(6), fall yarn
To dye good TENCEL YARNS and fall into cheese.
(7), select fabric tissue
Select to use the latitude plain stitch to carry out the braiding of Related product.
(8), braiding
Adopt twin-core shuttle mouth, its datum hole penetrates TENCEL YARNS, and auxilliary hole penetrates the jade yarn, is the knitted fabric of the various styles of braiding on 12 the straight-bar machines in plane No.; Making the fabric face that knits out is day style of silk dyed yarn, and reverse side is the style that does not have the jade yarn of dyeing.
(9), sew up
According to technology and demand the garment piece that is woven into is carried out the disk open seam.
(10), wash water, dehydration
Adopt wash water technology to be: M-22 type detergent 5% (o.w.f.), bath raio, 1: 30, pH value of solution=7 were 38 ℃ of following wash water 5min in temperature, then dehydration.
(11), moisture absorbable and breathable finishing
Adopt moisture absorbable and breathable finishing, its technology is: CTC-3410C type multifunction finishing agent 20% (o.w.f), and SM-7508 type efficient softener 2% (o.w.f) is at room temperature handled 10min; Dehydration; 65 ℃ of oven dry.
(12), soft finish, dehydration, oven dry
Adopt soft finish, its technology is: FMI type silicone oil softener 20% (o.w.f), bath raio, 1: 10; At room temperature handle 15min; Dehydration, 90 ℃ of oven dry.
(13), typing
Adopt steam shaping, modular system is a steam iron, and temperature is 110 ℃, and the time is 1min, and during flatiron, flatiron is contact fabric face not generally, only at the fabric face jetting saturated steam, apart from fabric side 1cm, finishes typing work.
Embodiment 2
The production technology of it silk, jade fiber knitting clothes:
(1), selects yarn
Select to use specification to be the TENCEL YARNS of 38s/2 and the jade fiber of 40s/2 (viscose glue base) yarn.
(2), fall reeled yarn
The sky yarn package is fallen into reeled yarn.
(3), refining
Soda ash is 1.5g/L, and soap is 1.2g/L, and bath raio is 1: 35, in temperature is 85 ℃ refining liquid, handles 40min.
(4), preparation dye bath
Adopt REACTIVE DYES to dye to the sky silk, dyestuff is 1% (o.w.f), and anhydrous sodium sulfate is 35g/L, and soda ash is 8g/L.
(5), dyeing, dehydration, oven dry
With dying TENCEL YARNS on the REACTIVE DYES: add anhydrous sodium sulfate and soda ash in advance, in the time of 25 ℃, yarn is soaked into, speed with 2 ℃/min is warming up to 50 ℃, add the good REACTIVE DYES 1% (o.w.f) of dissolving, insulation 15min, speed with 2 ℃/min is warming up to 75 ℃ again, insulation 50min, washing oven dry then; The pH value is controlled at 10 in the dyeing course, and bath raio is 1: 25.
The jade yarn need not dye, and directly uses raw yarn.
(6), fall yarn
To dye good TENCEL YARNS and fall into cheese.
(7), select fabric tissue
Select to use the latitude plain stitch to carry out the braiding of Related product.
(8), braiding
Adopt twin-core shuttle mouth, its datum hole penetrates TENCEL YARNS, and auxilliary hole penetrates the jade yarn, is the knitted fabric of the various styles of braiding on 14 the straight-bar machines in plane No.; Making the fabric face that knits out is day style of silk dyed yarn, and reverse side is the style that does not have the jade yarn of dyeing.
(9), sew up
According to technology and demand the garment piece that is woven into is carried out the disk open seam.
(10), wash water, dehydration
Adopt wash water technology to be: M-22 type detergent 5% (o.w.f.), bath raio, 1: 30, pH value of solution=7 were 38 ℃ of following wash water 5min in temperature, then dehydration.
(11), moisture absorbable and breathable finishing
Adopt moisture absorbable and breathable finishing, its technology is: CTC-3410C type multifunction finishing agent 20% (o.w.f), and SM-7508 type efficient softener 2% (o.w.f) is at room temperature handled 15min; Dehydration; 65 ℃ of oven dry.
(12), soft finish, dehydration, oven dry
Adopt soft finish, its technology is: FMI type silicone oil softener 20% (o.w.f), bath raio, 1: 10; At room temperature handle 10min; Dehydration, 80 ℃ of oven dry.
(13), typing
Adopt steam shaping, modular system is a steam iron, and temperature is 105 ℃, and the time is 2min, and during flatiron, flatiron is contact fabric face not generally, only at the fabric face jetting saturated steam, apart from fabric side 0.5cm, finishes typing work.
Embodiment 3
The production technology of it silk, jade fiber knitting clothes:
(1), selects yarn
Select to use specification to be the TENCEL YARNS of 42s/2 and the jade fiber of 40s/2 (viscose glue base) yarn.
(2), fall reeled yarn
The sky yarn package is fallen into reeled yarn.
(3), refining
Soda ash is 2.5g/L, and soap is 1.8g/L, and bath raio is 1: 40, in temperature is 85 ℃ refining liquid, handles 50min.
(4), preparation dye bath
Adopt REACTIVE DYES to dye to the sky silk, dyestuff is 3% (o.w.f), and anhydrous sodium sulfate is 45g/L, and soda ash is 12g/L.
(5), dyeing, dehydration, oven dry
With dying TENCEL YARNS on the REACTIVE DYES: add anhydrous sodium sulfate and soda ash in advance, in the time of 25 ℃, yarn is soaked into, speed with 2 ℃/min is warming up to 50 ℃, add the good REACTIVE DYES 3% (o.w.f) of dissolving, insulation 15min, speed with 2 ℃/min is warming up to 80 ℃ again, insulation 50min, washing oven dry then; The pH value is controlled at 11 in the dyeing course, and bath raio is 1: 20.
The jade yarn need not dye, and directly uses raw yarn.
(6), fall yarn
To dye good TENCEL YARNS and fall into cheese.
(7), select fabric tissue
Select to use the latitude plain stitch to carry out the braiding of Related product.
(8), braiding
Adopt twin-core shuttle mouth, its datum hole penetrates TENCEL YARNS, and auxilliary hole penetrates the jade yarn, is the knitted fabric of the various styles of braiding on 16 the straight-bar machines in plane No.; Making the fabric face that knits out is day style of silk dyed yarn, and reverse side is the style that does not have the jade yarn of dyeing.
(9), sew up
According to technology and demand the garment piece that is woven into is carried out the disk open seam.
(10), wash water, dehydration
Adopt wash water technology to be: M-22 type detergent 5% (o.w.f.), bath raio, 1: 30, pH value of solution=7 were 38 ℃ of following wash water 5min in temperature, then dehydration.
(11), moisture absorbable and breathable finishing
Adopt moisture absorbable and breathable finishing, its technology is: CTC-3410C type multifunction finishing agent 20% (o.w.f), and SM-7508 type efficient softener 2% (o.w.f) is at room temperature handled 20min; Dehydration; 65 ℃ of oven dry.
(12), soft finish, dehydration, oven dry
Adopt soft finish, its technology is: FMI type silicone oil softener 20% (o.w.f), bath raio, 1: 10; At room temperature handle 20min; Dehydration, 90 ℃ of oven dry.
(13), typing
Adopt steam shaping, modular system is a steam iron, and temperature is 125 ℃, and the time is 3min, and during flatiron, flatiron is contact fabric face not generally, only at the fabric face jetting saturated steam, apart from fabric side 1cm, finishes typing work.
The foregoing description is preferred embodiment of the present invention, is not to be used for limiting the scope of the present invention, so all equivalences of being done with the described structure of claim of the present invention, feature and principle change or modify, all should be included within the claim scope of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. the production technology of a sky silk, jade fiber knitting clothes, it is characterized in that described production technology comprises following technology successively: day skein silk yarn process, refinery practice, day silk dyeing, dewatering process, stoving process, fall into cheese technology, day silk with jade weaving yarns technology, sew up GARMENT SEWING TECHNOLOGY, wash water technology, dewatering process, moisture absorbable and breathable finishing technology, soft finish technology, dewatering process, stoving process and steaming and scald setting process.
2. the production technology of silk according to claim 1 day, jade fiber knitting clothes is characterized in that described refinery practice is: will place temperature through the sky silk after the reeled yarn technology is 80 ℃～85 ℃ refining liquid, processing 30min～50min; Wherein said refining liquid is made up of soda ash and soap, and soda ash is 2g/L ± 0.5g/L, and soap is 1.5g/L ± 0.3g/L, and bath raio is 1: 30～40.
3. the production technology of sky according to claim 1 silk, jade fiber knitting clothes, it is characterized in that, the silk dyeing was in described day: adopt REACTIVE DYES to dye, it is that 75 ℃ ± 5 ℃ dye liquor dyes that the sky silk is placed temperature, dyestuff is 2% ± 1% (o.w.f) in the wherein said dye liquor, also comprises anhydrous sodium sulfate 40g/L ± 5g/L and soda ash 10g/L ± 2g/L in the dye liquor, and the dye bath bath raio is 1: 20～30, the pH value is controlled at 10～11, and dyeing time is 50min.
4. the production technology of sky according to claim 1 silk, jade fiber knitting clothes, it is characterized in that, silk with jade weaving yarns technology was in described day: adopt twin-core shuttle mouth to carry out yarn feeding, datum hole penetrates 32s/2～42s/2 TENCEL YARNS, auxilliary hole penetrates 40s/2 jade fiber yarn, the knitting garment piece of braiding latitude plain stitch on the straight-bar machines of 12～16 plane No., making the knitting garment piece front that knits out is a day silk dyed yarn, reverse side is the jade yarn that does not have dyeing.
5. the production technology of sky according to claim 1 silk, jade fiber knitting clothes, it is characterized in that, described wash water technology is: will sew up good ready-made clothes is 38 ℃ of following wash water 5min with washing liquid in temperature, comprise detergent 5% (o.w.f.) in the wherein said washing liquid; bath raio 1: 30, pH value of solution=7.
6. the production technology of sky according to claim 1 silk, jade fiber knitting clothes, it is characterized in that, described moisture absorbable and breathable finishing technology is: will at room temperature handle 10min～20min with dressing liquid through the knitted fabric of dewatering process, wherein said dressing liquid is made up of moisture control agent 20% (o.w.f) and softener 2% (o.w.f), and described softener is non-silicon class softener.
7. the production technology of sky according to claim 1 silk, jade fiber knitting clothes, it is characterized in that, described soft finish technology is: will be through the knitted fabric silicone oil softener 20% (o.w.f) of moisture absorbable and breathable finishing technology, at room temperature handle 10min～20min; bath raio; 1: 10, wherein said silicone oil softener is an amino-silicone oil softening agent.
8. the production technology of sky according to claim 1 silk, jade fiber knitting clothes is characterized in that described stoving process is: 85 ℃ ± 5 ℃ oven dry down.
9. the production technology of sky according to claim 1 silk, jade fiber knitting clothes, it is characterized in that, setting process is scalded in described steaming: press with steam iron, wherein said ironing temperature is 115 ℃ ± 10 ℃, and the time is 2min ± 1min, during flatiron, flatiron is the contact fabric face not, only, apart from about fabric side 1cm ± 0.5cm, finish heating, dewing and pressurized operation simultaneously at the fabric face jetting saturated steam.
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| CN102877190A (en) * | 2012-09-17 | 2013-01-16 | 上海缀菱纺织品有限公司 | Jade fiber fabric |
| CN103361872A (en) * | 2013-05-15 | 2013-10-23 | 浙江芬雪琳针织服饰有限公司 | Production technology of medical stone fiber seamless knitted underwear with health-care function |
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