CN101642416A - Stable water-in-oil emulsion with high water content and high volatile fat phase content - Google Patents
Stable water-in-oil emulsion with high water content and high volatile fat phase content Download PDFInfo
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- CN101642416A CN101642416A CN 200810130910 CN200810130910A CN101642416A CN 101642416 A CN101642416 A CN 101642416A CN 200810130910 CN200810130910 CN 200810130910 CN 200810130910 A CN200810130910 A CN 200810130910A CN 101642416 A CN101642416 A CN 101642416A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion composition for a nursing and/or make-up keratin material. The composition comprises a fat phase and a water phase in a physiologically acceptable medium, wherein the fat phase contains a volatile fat phase which accounts for at least 25 percent of the total weight of an emulsion; the water phase contains water which accounts for 35 to 65 percent ofthe total weight of the emulsion; and the volatile fat phase at least comprises polysiloxane volatile oil and volatile alkyl oil. The composition also comprises an emulsification system which at least comprises a mixture of the following materials: (i) dimethicone copolyol of a formula (I), wherein R=-(CH2)p-(C2H4O)x(C3H6O)yH, m is an integer from 1 to 200, n is an integer from 1 to 50, p is an integer from 1 to 6, x is an integer from 1 to 30, and y is an integer from 1 to 30; and (ii) alpha, omega-substituted oxidation olefination polysiloxane of a formula (II), wherein R=-(CH2)pO-(C2H4O)x(C3H6O)yR<1> (wherein R<1> represents H, CH3 or CH2CH3, p is an integer from 1 to 5, x is from 1 to 100, y is from 0 to 50, preferably from 1 to 50, and the units of (C2H4O) and (C3H6O) can be in random distribution or block distribution), a group R2 independently represents a C1-C3 alkyl, and m is more than or equal to 5 and is less than or equal to 300.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to make up and/or the skin nursing field, and target is to be provided at, and flowability, stable aspect have superperformance and can obtain the cosmetic composition of salubrious effect on being applied to skin the time.The invention still further relates to relevant cosmetic method.
Background technology
(base foundation) is Water-In-Oil (W/O) emulsion at the bottom of cosmetic composition, particularly foundation cream and the basic powder.Usually attempt to introduce in mutually flexibility and mobile chemical compound, for example polysiloxanes are provided to fat.But known raising along with silicone oil content more is difficult to make stable W/O emulsion, and this situation does not occur over just through long-time back and occurs in when standing big variations in temperature.In fact, the flowability of prescription may be to cause the reason of unstability phenomenon in time, for example surperficial fuel-displaced, pigment deposition, retrogradation etc.On the other hand, when being applied to skin, in order to have superperformance aspect the mobile and salubrious property, method commonly used is lightweight (water-light) quality that exploitation has the water sample of high-load water and volatile compound (silicone oil, ethereal oil).But the stability of this compositions is very difficult to keep in long-time, and high-load silicone oil/ethereal oil makes skin that the oiliness sensation be arranged, and is so very uncomfortable.
Therefore, we need a kind ofly to comprise high-load water, high-load polysiloxanes volatile material and do not have the compositions of the shortcoming of prior art compositions.
The inventor has proved:
To combine the result who obtains than a kind of dimethicone copolyol and another kind of W/O emulsifying agent good for the result that stable aspect obtains of being combined in of-two kinds of specific dimethicone copolyols;
-when two kinds of specific dimethicone copolyols with specific ratio in conjunction with the time obtain result preferably.
Summary of the invention
Therefore, the present invention relates to a kind ofly be used to nurse and/or the compositions of the water-in-oil emulsion form of the keratin material of making up, described compositions is included in fat phase and the water in the last acceptable medium of physiology, fat is included as at least 25% volatile fat phase of emulsion gross weight mutually, water is included as the water of the 35-65% of emulsion gross weight, described volatile fat comprises polysiloxanes ethereal oil and volatile hydrocarbon base oil mutually at least, and described compositions comprises emulsification system, and described emulsification system comprises the mixture of following material at least:
(i) dimethicone copolyol of formula (I)
R=-(CH wherein
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yH
Wherein m is the integer of 1-200,
N is the integer of 1-50,
P is the integer of 1-6,
X is the integer of 1-30,
Y is the integer of 1-30,
With
The (ii) α of formula (II), the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement
Wherein: R=-(CH
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yR
1
Wherein: R
1Expression H, CH
3Or CH
2CH
3,
P is the integer of 1-5, and x is 1-100, and y is 0-50, preferred 1-50,
Unit (C
2H
4O) and (C
3H
6O) but random or block distributed,
Radicals R
2Represent C independently
1-C
3Alkyl,
And 5≤m≤300.
The invention still further relates to a kind of cosmetic suit, described suit comprises:
-at least a compositions as defined above (as at the bottom of the basic powder)
-at least a foundation compositions;
-at least a the powder of fixing (finish power).
The invention still further relates to a kind of cosmetic method, described method comprises at least a present composition as defined above of local application.
With regard to purpose of the present invention, the last acceptable medium of physiology is compatible with skin, eyes and/or hair and therefore is used for the medium of preparing cosmetics and/or skin composition.
The specific embodiment
Emulsification system (polysiloxane surfactant)
Emulsification system of the present invention comprise at least two kinds for as the polysiloxane surfactant of hereinafter disclosed specific dimethicone copolyol.
The mixture of dimethicone copolyol of the present invention comprises at least two kinds of polydimethylsiloxane that contain oxyethylation and/or oxypropylation group, first kind of material has formula (I), second kind of material is as the α of disclosed formula (II) hereinafter the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement.
The preferred material that comprises oxyethylation shown below and/or oxypropylation chain that uses:
-(C
2H
4O)
x-(C
3H
6O)
y-H
Wherein x can be 0-100, and y can be 0-100, and x and y can not be 0.
According to an embodiment preferred of the present invention, these polysiloxane surfactants are to comprise the two dimethicone copolyol of oxyethylation group and oxypropylation group, for example comprise 2-50 oxyethylation group and comprise those of 2-50 oxypropylation group.
(i) dimethicone copolyol of formula (I)
Emulsification system of the present invention comprises the dimethicone copolyol of the formula of being selected from (I) chemical compound at least
R=-(CH wherein
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yH
Wherein m is the integer of 1-200,
N is the integer of 1-50,
P is the integer of 1-6,
X is the integer of 1-30,
Y is the integer of 1-30.
In a preferred embodiment, emulsification system of the present invention comprises the dimethicone copolyol of the formula of being selected from (I) chemical compound at least
R=-(CH wherein
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yH
Wherein m is the integer of 20-105,
N is the integer of 2-10,
P is the integer of 2-4,
X is the integer of 10-20,
U is the integer of 10-20.
In a preferred embodiment, emulsification system of the present invention comprises the dimethicone copolyol of the formula of being selected from (I) chemical compound at least
R=-(CH wherein
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yH
Wherein m is the integer of 20-105,
N is the integer of 2-10,
P equals 3,
X equals 18,
Y equals 18.
According to the present invention, in active substance weight, the usage ratio of the dimethicone copolyol of formula (I) is the 0.05-5% of emulsion gross weight as defined above, preferred 0.05-1%, more preferably 0.1-0.5%.
All or part of for the dimethicone copolyol of formula (I) and can be used in the commercially available prod of emulsification system of the present invention at ingredient, (the INCI title: D5/PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane), it is the mixture that comprises dimethicone copolyol, D5 and the water (12: 86: 2) of 18 oxyethylation groups and 18 oxypropylation groups to have DOW CORNING (Dow Corning) company to sell a product that is called DC 5225C.
(ii) α, the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement
The α that can be used for emulsification system of the present invention, the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is the organosilicon polymer of linear structure, is replaced by the oxyalkylene group that links to each other with the Si atom by the group based on hydrocarbon at the two ends of main chain.
Preferred α, the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is selected from the chemical compound of following formula (II):
Wherein: R=-(CH
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yR
1
Wherein: R
1Expression H, CH
3Or CH
2CH
3,
P is the integer of 1-5, and x is 1-100, and y is 0-50, preferred 1-50,
Unit (C
2H
4O) and (C
3H
6O) but random or block distributed,
Radicals R
2Represent C independently
1-C
3Alkyl and
5≤m≤300。
Be preferred for α of the present invention, the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is selected from the chemical compound of formula (II):
Wherein: R=-(CH
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yR
1
Wherein: R
1Expression CH
3,
P is the integer of 1-5, and x is 1-100, and y is 1-50,
Unit (C
2H
4O) and (C
3H
6O) but random or block distributed,
All radicals R
2For methyl and
5≤m≤300。
Also the mean molecule quantity of preferred R group is 800-2600.
Preferred C
2H
4O unit and C
3H
6The unitary weight ratio of O is 100: 10-20: 80.
Preferred this ratio is about 42: 58.
Also preferred R
1Be methyl.
Emulsion also more preferably of the present invention comprises the α of the chemical compound that is selected from following formula (III), the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement:
Wherein:
m＝100，
R=(CH
2)
3-O-(C
2H
4O)
x-(C
3H
6O)
y-CH
3, wherein x is 3-100, and y is 1-50, C
2H
4O unit and C
3H
6The unitary weight ratio of O is about 42: 58, and the mean molecule quantity of R is 800-1000.
Emulsion also more preferably of the present invention comprises the α of following formula (III), the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement:
Wherein:
m＝100，
R=(CH
2)
3-O-(C
2H
4O)
x-(C
3H
6O)
y-CH
3, wherein x equals 14, and y equals 14, C
2H
4O unit and C
3H
6The unitary weight ratio of O is about 42: 58, and the mean molecule quantity of R is 800-1000.
According to the present invention, in active substance weight, α as defined above, the usage ratio of the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is the 0.5-10% of emulsion gross weight, preferred 1-5%, more preferably 2-3% weight.
At contained all or part of composition is α, the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement and can be used in the commercially available prod of emulsification system of the present invention has Goldschmidt company to sell name and is called " Abil EM 97 " or company of SHIN-ETSU HANTOTAI (Shin Etsu) and sells those that are called " KF 6009 ", " X22-4350 ", " X22-4349 " or " KF 6008 ".
In a preferred embodiment, described emulsification system of the present invention comprises the dimethicone copolyol of the formula (I) that contains 18 oxyethylation groups and 18 oxypropylation groups at least, the mixture and the α of D5 and water (12: 86: 2), the ω position is by the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of 14 oxyethylation groups and 14 oxypropylation group replacements and the mixture of D5 (85: 15), the INCI name of preceding a kind of mixture is called D5/PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane, and the INCI name of a kind of mixture in back is called Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane/D5.
In a special embodiment, emulsification system of the present invention comprises at least:
(i) comprise the dimethicone copolyol (PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane) of the formula (I) of 18 oxyethylation groups and 18 oxypropylation groups, for example DOW CORNING (DowCorning) company sell the name be called dimethicone copolyol, D5 and the water (12: 86: 2) that comprise 18 oxyethylation groups and 18 oxypropylation groups of DC 5225C a mixture (the INCI title: D5/PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane) and
(ii) α, the ω position is by the polysiloxanes (PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane) of the oxidation alkylene of 14 oxyethylation groups and 14 oxypropylation group replacements, and particularly for example Goldschmidt company sells mixture (the INCI title: Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane/D5) that name is called dimethicone copolyol that comprises 14 oxyethylation groups and 14 oxypropylation groups and the D5 (85: 15) of Abil EM-97.
In a preferred embodiment, weight in active substance in the whole emulsion, the dimethicone copolyol of formula (I) and formula (II) or α (III), the weight ratio of the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is preferably greater than 1 more than or equal to 1.
Particularly, in the weight of active substance in the whole emulsion, the weight ratio of Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane (Abil EM 97) and PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane (DC5225C) is preferably greater than 1 more than or equal to 1.
Particularly, weight in active substance in the whole emulsion, the dimethicone copolyol of formula (I) and formula (II) or α (III), the weight ratio of the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement, particularly the ratio of Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane and PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane is 30-1, particularly 25-15, more preferably 22-21.
In compositions of the present invention, the amount of the active substance of polysiloxanes emulsification system of the present invention can for example be the 1-5% of composition total weight, preferred 2-4%, also 3-4% more preferably.
In a preferred embodiment, in the weight of active substance, α, the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is (ii), particularly the amount of Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane (Abil EM 97) can be the 1-5% of composition total weight, preferred 2-3%.
In a preferred embodiment, weight in active substance, the dimethicone copolyol (i) of formula (I), particularly the amount of PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane (DC5225C) can be the 0.05-1% of composition total weight, preferred 0.1-0.5%, more preferably 0.1-0.2%.
In concrete and embodiment preferred, weight in active substance, emulsion of the present invention is included as the α of the 2-3% of composition total weight, and the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is the dimethicone copolyol (i) (PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane (DC 5225C)) of the formula (I) of (particularly Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane (Abil EM 97)) and 0.1-0.2% (ii).
Water
Compositions of the present invention comprises the water that contains high-load (particularly at least 30% of composition total weight and preferred 35-65%) and optional hydrophilic organic solvent (for example monohydric alcohol and polyhydric alcohol, particularly C usually
2-C
4Polyhydric alcohol, for example ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol or glycerol) water.
In a preferred embodiment, the amount of water can be the 40-50% of composition total weight.
Advantageously, compositions of the present invention can comprise monohydric alcohol, particularly ethanol.
The amount of monohydric alcohol can be the 1-10% of composition total weight, preferred 1-5%, the more preferably 3-5% of composition total weight.
In addition, described compositions can comprise C
2-C
4Polyhydric alcohol, preferably glycerine.
The amount of polyhydric alcohol can be the 1-10% of composition total weight, preferred 3-7%, the more preferably 4-6% of composition total weight.
Compositions of the present invention also can comprise at least a filler.
Filler
Term " filler " is interpreted as being meant colourless or white, the mineral or the synthetic granule of Any shape, and no matter compositions prepares under what temperature, and it is insoluble in the medium of compositions.
Described filler can be the mineral or the Organic substance of Any shape (lamellar, sphere or rectangle), and can be any crystal form (for example stratiform, cube, hexagon, quadrature etc.).That can mention has Talcum, Muscovitum, silicon dioxide, Kaolin, a polyamide
Powder, poly--the Beta-alanine powder, polyethylene powders, tetrafluoro ethylene polymer
Powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, fine titanium dioxide powder, hollow polymer microsphere style such as Vingon/acrylonitrile are for example
The microsphere of (Nobel Industrie) or the microsphere of acrylic copolymer, silicone resin powder particularly the silsesquioxane powder (particularly in the silicone resin powder described in the patent EP 293 795; For example
(deriving from Toshiba)), elastomer organo-polysilane granules, winnofil, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silicon dioxide microsphere, glass or ceramic microcapsule and derived from the metallic soap of the organic carboxyl acid that comprises 8-22 carbon atom and preferred 12-18 carbon atom, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt or magnesium myristate; And composition thereof.
Compositions of the present invention can comprise the 0.5%-10% that its content is composition total weight, the filler of preferred 1%-5%.
The fat phase
Compositions of the present invention comprises fatty phase, and particularly described fat is included as at least 25% volatile fat phase of emulsion gross weight mutually.
Compositions of the present invention can comprise at least a polysiloxanes ethereal oil and at least a volatile hydrocarbon base oil.
With regard to purpose of the present invention, term " ethereal oil " is meant any oil that can evaporate when with contact skin under room temperature and atmospheric pressure.Ethereal oil of the present invention is to be to have the non-zero vapour pressure by the volatility cosmetic oil of liquid under room temperature and atmospheric pressure under the room temperature, and vapour pressure is specially 0.13Pa-40000Pa (0.001-300mmHg), and is preferably 1.3Pa-1300Pa (0.01-10mmHg).
Described ethereal oil can be selected from volatile hydrocarbon base oil, volatile silicone oils and volatility fluorocarbon oil and composition thereof.
Term " alkyl oil " is meant the oil that mainly comprises hydrogen and carbon atom and may comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
The alkyl oil, particularly side chain C of the optional self-contained 8-16 carbon atom of described volatile hydrocarbon base oil
8-C
16Alkane, for example C in oil source
8-C
16Isoalkane (being also referred to as isoparaffin) is Fancol ID (being also referred to as 2,2,4,4, the 6-five methylheptane), isodecane and 2-Methylpentadecane for example, and for example sold goods are by name
With
Oil.In a preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon base oil in the described compositions is a Fancol ID.
The amount of volatile hydrocarbon base oil in described compositions can be the 1-10% of composition total weight, preferred 5-10%, more preferably 7-8%.
Same spendable ethereal oil comprises Y 7175, for example volatile straight chain or ring-type silicone oil, particularly viscosity≤5 centistokes (5 * 10
-6m
2/ s), particularly comprise those of 2-10 silicon atom and preferred 2-7 silicon atom, optional alkyl or the alkoxyl that contains 1-10 carbon atom that comprise of these polysiloxanes.As being used for volatile silicone oils of the present invention, that can mention especially has octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic rings, six siloxanes, seven methyl hexyl trisiloxanes, seven Methyl Octyl trisiloxanes, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane and ten dimethyl, five siloxanes and composition thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the polysiloxanes ethereal oil that is used for described compositions is a decamethylcyclopentaandoxane.
The amount of the polysiloxanes ethereal oil in the present composition can be the 15-30% of composition total weight, preferred 20-30%, more preferably 24-26%.
In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of middle mutually polysiloxanes ethereal oil of volatile fat and volatile hydrocarbon base oil can be 4: 2.
Compositions of the present invention also can comprise the nonvolatile oil of at least a nonvolatile oil, particularly low content (be usually less than 5% of composition total weight, preferably be lower than 2%).
Term " nonvolatile oil " is meant the oil that remains to few a few hours and particularly have the vapour pressure that is lower than 0.13Pa (0.01mmHg) under room temperature and atmospheric pressure on skin.
These nonvolatile oils can be alkyl oil, particularly alkyl oil or silicone oil or its mixture of originating from animal or plant.Term " alkyl oil " is meant the oil that mainly comprises hydrogen and carbon atom and may comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
Described nonvolatile oil can be selected from especially can be by fluorizated fixed hydrocarbon base oil and/or non-volatile silicone oil.
The fixed hydrocarbon base oil that can mention especially comprises:
The alkyl oil of-animal origin,
The alkyl oil of-plant origin, the triglyceride of forming by the fatty acid ester of glycerol for example, fatty acid wherein has C
4-C
24Variable chain length, these chains can be straight or branched, saturated or undersaturated; These oil are enanthic acid or Trivent OCG or Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil particularly, Oleum helianthi, Semen Vitis viniferae oil, the Semen Sesami seed oil, Semen Maydis oil, almond oil, Oleum Ricini, galam butter, American Avocado Tree oil, olive oil, soybean oil, Semen pruni armeniacae oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, rapeseed oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, Jojoba oil, Herba Medicaginis oil, seed of Papaver somniferum L. powder, pumpkin seed oil, Oleum sesami, bone marrow oil, rapeseed oil, the Ribes fasciculatum Var Chincsis Maxim fruit oil, Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil, millet oil, big wheat oil, quinoa oil, rye-seed oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, egg fruit oil or muskrat oil; Shea oil; Or caprylic/capric triglyceride, for example St é arineriesDubois company those or the Dynamit Nobel company that the are sold name of being sold is called Miglyol
With
Those,
-comprise the synthetic ether of 10-40 carbon atom,
The straight or branched hydrocarbon in-mineral or synthetic source, for example vaseline, poly decene, Parleam, for example
Squalane and liquid paraffin and composition thereof,
-synthetic ester, for example formula R
1COOR
2Oil, R wherein
1Expression comprises the straight or branched fatty acid residue of 1-40 carbon atom, R
2Represent hydrocarbyl chain, particularly comprise the branched hydrocarbyl chain of 1-40 carbon atom, condition is R
1+ R
2〉=10, for example purcellin oil (sad 16/stearyl), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoic acid C
12-C
15Arrcostab, lauric acid hexyl ester, diisopropyl adipate, the different nonyl ester of different n-nonanoic acid, Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, isostearic acid iso stearyl ester, lauric acid 2-hexyl ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, Palmic acid 2-octyl group ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, myristic acid 2-octyl group dodecyl ester, the perhaps heptanoate of alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, caprylate, decanoin or ricinoleate, for example propylene glycol dicaprylate; Hydroxylated ester, for example lactic acid iso stearyl ester, malic acid two iso stearyl esters or lactic acid 2-octyl group-dodecyl ester; Polyol ester and pentaerythritol ester,
Be the aliphatic alcohol of liquid under the-room temperature, contain the side chain and/or the undersaturated carbon back chain that comprise 12-26 carbon atom, for example octyldodecanol, iso stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyl capryl alcohol or 2-undecyl pentadecanol,
-higher fatty acids, for example oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid and composition thereof.
The non-volatile silicone oil that can be used for the present composition can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), comprise side joint on polysiloxane chain and/or at polydimethylsiloxane, the phenyl polysiloxane of its terminal alkyl or alkoxyl (each self-contained 2-24 carbon atom of these groups), for example poly-trimethicone of phenyl, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane and diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and composition thereof.
Compositions of the present invention also can comprise at least a coloring agent that particularly is selected from pigment, pearly-lustre thing, lipid-soluble dye and water-soluble dye and composition thereof.
Term " pigment " is interpreted as being meant white or the coloured inorganic or organic granular that is insoluble to the last acceptable medium of physiology and is used to make the painted Any shape of compositions.
Term " pearly-lustre thing " is interpreted as being meant the iris granule of Any shape, particularly with certain band shell Mollusca preparation or synthetic.
Term " dyestuff " is interpreted as typically referring to organic compound water-soluble or fatty material (for example oil).
Described pigment can be white or colored and is inorganic and/or Organic substance.In various inorganic pigments, the oxide that optional surface treated titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide and zinc oxide, ferrum are arranged that can mention (iron black, iron oxide yellow or iron oxide red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromic oxide gel and barba hispanica and metal dust be aluminium powder or copper powder for example.
In various organic pigments, that can mention has white carbon black, a D﹠amp; All kinds of pigment of C and based on the color lake of carmine or barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
Described luster pigment optional from white luster pigment for example scribble the Muscovitum of titanium or bismuth oxychloride, coloured luster pigment for example scribble the odenite of ferrum oxide, particularly scribble barba hispanica or chromium oxide odenite, scribble the above-mentioned type organic pigment odenite and based on the luster pigment of bismuth oxychloride.
Described lipid-soluble dye for example is tonyred, D﹠amp; C17 number red, D﹠amp; C6 number green, beta-carotene, soybean oil, brown, the D﹠amp of the Sudan; C11 Huang, D﹠amp; C2 purple, D﹠amp; C5 orange, D C Yellow No. 10, kermes and bromo-acid.
The amount that dyestuff can exist is the 0.1%-30% of composition total weight, is preferably 0.1%-20%, is preferably 0.5%-15%, is preferably 1%-15%, more preferably 5%-15%.
Adopt known mode, compositions of the present invention also can comprise the adjuvant that is usually used in cosmetics, for example wetting agent, antiseptic, antioxidant, chelating agent, solvent, spice, sunscreen, antibacterial, odour absorbents, sunscreen, vitamin, wetting agent, from pitch-dark chemical compound and crease-resistant activating agent.Routine be used for consider that the amount of these various adjuvant in field for example is the 0.01%-20% of composition total weight.According to its character, these adjuvant can be introduced in fatty phase, water and/or the lipid capsule.
In a preferred embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises at least a antioxidant, particularly tocopherol or Tocopherol acetate ester.
In a preferred embodiment, the polysiloxanes ethereal oil in the present composition is a D5.
In a preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon base oil in the present composition is a Fancol ID.
In a preferred embodiment, volatile fat in mutually the polysiloxanes ethereal oil and the weight ratio of volatility hydrocarbon ils can be 4: 2.
In a preferred embodiment, described compositions also is included as at least 3% glycerol of emulsion gross weight.
In a preferred embodiment, described compositions also comprises at least 2% C
2-C
4Alcohol, particularly ethanol.
In a preferred embodiment, described compositions also comprises at least a antioxidant, particularly tocopherol.
At the bottom of basic powder,, help floating pore and microgroove with compositions of the present invention applied makeup persistency that plays moisture-keeping function immediately and strengthen foundation cream on skin.The skin silkiness that becomes is soft and smooth.
Also help the colour of skin even at the bottom of the basic powder, to represent the dressing of translucent water profit.
Can before foundation cream, use at the bottom of the basic powder of the present invention.
In a preferred embodiment, cosmetic method of the present invention comprises successively:
-use as (step 1) at the bottom of the defined basic powder of the present invention
-use foundation cream (step 2)
-use the powder (step 3) of fixing at last.
In a preferred embodiment, be used for the foundation cream of step 2 for comprising the liquid W/O emulsion form of polysiloxanes, dyes/pigments, fatty compound, water and other solvents at least.
For example, the foundation cream of using in step 2 can comprise:
| Water | ????30-65％ |
| Glycerol | ????4-7％ |
| Vegetable oil | ????10-20％ |
| Y 7175 | ????8-20％ |
| Non-volatile polysiloxanes | ????5-12％ |
| Fancol ID | ????1-5％ |
| Dyes/pigments | ????5-12％ |
| Filler | ????0.5-3％ |
| Antiseptic | ????0-2％ |
In a preferred embodiment, the powder of fixing that is used for step 3 is a powder type, comprises at least
| Dyes/pigments | ????1-4％ |
| The pearly-lustre thing | ????40-70％ |
| Polymer filler | ????2-7％ |
| Talcum | ????12-25％ |
| Surfactant | ????0.5-2％ |
Step 1 (at the bottom of the basic powder of the present invention):
The makeup persistency of-prolongation foundation cream:
● the applied makeup persistency that plays moisture-keeping function immediately and strengthen foundation cream on skin helps floating pore and microgroove.The skin silkiness that becomes is soft and smooth.
● absorb excessive oil, make dressing salubrious all day.
-representing translucent water moistens dressing:
● help the colour of skin even, honorable from the interior new life that brings.
Feel salubrious and smooth immediately, the lightweight quality (water-light) of water sample makes skin moisture-keeping reach 12 hours most.
At the bottom of the basic powder usually before foundation cream, use after the skin nursing, and applying finger applied gently on skin until absorption.
Step 2 (foundation cream) has the following advantages:
-natural flawless dressing
● the covering of desired quantity is provided, makes colour of skin perfection and subterranean weakness, and can not stay tangible cosmetic vestige.Naturally eliminate pore and microgroove.
● perfect water oil balance, it is honorable that skin is increased, and makes it seem healthy, seems from interior radiant outward.
-skin touches soft
● the skin whole day is preserved moisture.
● it is soft and smooth that the nutrition compound of natural oil helps skin to touch.
-use sensation
● the lightweight quality of inflation is applied on skin easily, makes its silkiness soft and comfortable all day.
Be recommended in use at the bottom of the basic powder after, with the finger or cotton pads use foundation cream and uniform mixing at 5 places of face (forehead, two cheeks, nose and chin).Present the natural translucent colour of skin immediately.
Step 3 (powder of fixing)
● light, easily applied on skin through fine gtinding and quality, smooth flawless last dressing is provided.
● obtain translucent fixing.
● absorb excessive oil, salubrious to keep cosmetic.
Emphasis is used the powder of fixing on the bridge of the nose, forehead, two cheeks and chin, with outstanding individual character.
Form with non-limitative illustration provides following examples.
Embodiment:
In further disclosed compositions, % is the percentage by weight with respect to the raw material of composition total weight.
Embodiment 1: the preparation of emulsification system of the present invention
Formula (I), (II) or (III) several mixture stabilized formulations whether fully of emulsifying agent in general formulation, have been tested.
General formulation (embodiment 1)
The preparation of general formulation:
1. the preparation of pigment dispersion: get some and encircle five dimethyl siloxanes, and grind the A2 phase by three roller MORITZ
2. homogenize A1 phase (comprises emulsification system EM1+EM2 and optional EMx: several tested mixture-vide infra)
3. A2 is added to mutually A1 mutually in, mixed Moritz speed: 900-950 45 minutes.Until homogenize (confirming the formation of dispersion by microscope).
4. A3 is added to mutually A1 mutually in, mixed Moritz speed: 900-950 30 minutes.
5. prepare the B1 phase.
6. B1 is slowly added to mutually A1 mutually in, improve speed simultaneously.Homogenize 15 minutes, speed: 1650-1750.
7. C is added to mutually A mutually in.Moritz speed: 700-800.
The stability test method
With sample (general formulation that contains emulsifier mixture to be tested) be placed at room temperature and 4 ℃, 37 ℃, 45 ℃ down and circulation to carry out 2 months stability tests; After 2 months, sample is taken out from baking oven, check outward appearance:, then think said composition " instability " if any deposition, phase shift or variable color are arranged.In contrast, if the outward appearance of sample seems identical with initial sample behind the stability test, if the pigment that further views this emulsion at microscopically is good dispersion and emulsion still good (the emulsion edge clear is smooth) still, think that then said composition " stablizes ".
Contrast:
The above disclosed general formulation instability that contains 3% emulsifier EM 1 (being Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane/D5, the Abil EM 97 that Goldschmidt provides).
In order to find best of breed, we have tested the combination of EM1 (must contain) with several emulsifying agents (EM2-EM5).
-EM2 is that DOW CORNING (Dow Corning) company sells mixture (the INCI title: D5/PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane) that name is called dimethicone copolyol, D5 and the water (12: 86: 2) that comprise 18 oxyethylation groups and 18 oxypropylation groups of DC 5225C;
-EM3 is that company of SHIN-ETSU HANTOTAI (ShinEtsu) sells polydimethylsiloxane and the polydimethylsiloxane/polyglycereol-3-cross linked polymer (75: 25) that name is called KSG 710;
-EM4 is that Goldschmidt sells isostearic acid polyglycereol (4) ester (POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE), cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane and the lauric acid hexyl ester that name is called Abil WE 09;
-EM5 is that Croda sells poly-ricinoleic acid polyglycereol (3) ester (POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE) and the sorbitan isostearate that name is called Arlacel 1690.
The result
++ ++ the expression excellent in stability; +++expression has good stability;-expression is unstable
Unsatisfactory or the undetermined of/expression quality
These results show, EM1 and EM2 be combined in stability and aspect, flowing property ground obtains trading off preferably.Preferably be combined as the combination that the embodiment 1B of the EM2 that contains 3% EM1 and 1% is surveyed.
Embodiment 2: the ingredients at the bottom of the basic powder
| Phase | The INCI title | % weight |
| ??A1 | Goldschmidt company sells mixture (the INCI title: Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane/D5) that name is called dimethicone copolyol that comprises 14 oxyethylation groups and 14 oxypropylation groups and the D5 (85: 15) of Abil EM-97 | ??3 |
| ??A1 | Dow Corning company sells mixture (the INCI title: D5/PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane) that name is called dimethicone copolyol, D5 and the water (12: 86: 2) that comprise 18 oxyethylation groups and 18 oxypropylation groups of DC 5225C | ??1 |
| ??A1 | Encircle five dimethyl siloxanes | ??25.06 |
| ??A1 | Tocopherol | ??0.15 |
| ??A1 | Squalane | ??1.8 |
| ??A1 | Fancol ID | ??7.5 |
| ??A1 | The auxiliary anticorrosion agent | ??2 |
| ??A2 | The oxide of ferrum | ??0.023 |
| ??A2 | Titanium dioxide and C 9-C 15Fluorine-containing alcohol phosphate ester (93: 7) | ??0.48 |
| ??A3 | Nylon 12 powder (institute sells name and is called Orgasol 2002EXD NAT COS, derives from Arkema) | ??0.5 |
| ??A3 | The methyl methacrylate cross linked polymer, name is called COVABEAD LH85, derives from LCW (12 microns of granulometry: 10A) | ??1 |
| ??B1 | Pure water | In right amount to 100 |
| ??B1 | Glycerol | ??4 |
| ??B1 | Biological carbohydrate gum (BIOSACcharIDE GUM) derives from Solabia | ??2 |
| ??C | Ethanol | ??4 |
Prepare said composition according to disclosed method among the embodiment 1.
Described compositions has the quality of flow-like, salubrious non-greasy, when being applied on the skin, has good comfort.
Said composition for example is applied on the skin after skin nursing He before using foundation cream as at the bottom of the basic powder.
In the time of on being applied to skin, said composition plays moisture-keeping function and strengthens the makeup persistency of foundation cream, helps floating pore and microgroove.The skin silkiness that becomes is soft and smooth.
Also represent the dressing of translucent water profit, and helped the colour of skin even, honorable from the interior new life that brings.
The lightweight quality of water sample makes skin moisture-keeping reach 12 hours most.
Embodiment 3: the cosmetic suit
Step 1: (be disclosed in embodiment 2) at the bottom of the basic powder
Step 2 foundation cream (liquid)
| The INCI title | % weight |
| Vegetable oil | ??14 |
| Isostearic acid polyglycereol (4) ester, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane and lauric acid hexyl ester (Abil WE 09 derives from Goldschmidt) | ??9 |
| Titanium dioxide | ??8 |
| Filler | ??1.5 |
| Tocopherol | ??0.5 |
| The oxide of ferrum | ??1.15 |
| Encircle five dimethyl siloxanes | ??14 |
| Fancol ID | ??3 |
| Glycerol | ??5 |
| Surfactant | ??0.5 |
| The auxiliary anticorrosion agent | ??2 |
| Pure water | In right amount to 100 |
Step 3 powder of fixing
| The INCI title | % weight |
| Scribble the barium sulfate (95: 5) of N-lauroyl lysine | ??2.4 |
| The oxide of ferrum | ??0.05 |
| Based on micaceous pearly-lustre thing | ??40 |
| Polysiloxanes | ??1 |
| Polyurethane powder (Plastic Powder D400 derives from Toshiki pigment company) | ??4.65 |
| Boron sikicate aluminum calcium and titanium dioxide (Metashine MC1040Y derives from Nippon Sheet Glass) | ??8 |
| The copolymer of the methyl methacrylate that the spent glycol dimethylacrylate is crosslinked (GANZPEARL GMP 0820 derives from Ganz Chemical) | ??5 |
| Surfactant | ??1.4 |
| Talcum | ??18 |
Step 1 (at the bottom of the basic powder of the present invention) strengthens the makeup persistency of foundation cream and has represented the dressing of translucent water profit.Feel salubrious and smooth immediately, the lightweight quality of water sample makes skin moisture-keeping reach 12 hours most.
Usually before using foundation cream, after skin nursing, use at the bottom of the basic powder, and applied until absorption on skin gently with pointing.
Step 2 (foundation cream) obtains natural flawless dressing and skin touches soft.
Be recommended in use at the bottom of the basic powder after, use foundation cream and applied at 5 places of face (forehead, two cheeks, nose and chin) with finger or cotton pads.Present natural translucent dressing immediately.
Step 3 (powder of fixing) obtains translucently fixing and absorbing excessive oil, and therefore making makes up keeps salubrious.Emphasis is used the powder of fixing with outstanding individual character on the bridge of the nose, forehead, cheekbone and chin.
Claims (15)
1. one kind is used to nurse and/or the compositions of the water-in-oil emulsion form of the keratin material of making up, described compositions is included in fat phase and the water in the last acceptable medium of physiology, fat is included as at least 25% volatile fat phase of emulsion gross weight mutually, water is included as the water of the 35-65% of emulsion gross weight, described volatile fat comprises polysiloxanes ethereal oil and volatile hydrocarbon base oil mutually at least, and described compositions comprises emulsification system, and described emulsification system comprises the mixture of following material at least:
(i) dimethicone copolyol of formula (I)
R=-(CH wherein
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yH
Wherein m is the integer of 1-200,
N is the integer of 1-50,
P is the integer of 1-6,
X is the integer of 1-30,
Y is the integer of 1-30,
With
The (ii) α of formula (II), the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement
Wherein: R=-(CH
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yR
1
Wherein: R
1Expression H, CH
3Or CH
2CH
3,
P is the integer of 1-5, and x is 1-100, and y is 0-50, preferred 1-50,
Unit (C
2H
4O) and (C
3H
6O) but random or block distributed,
Radicals R
2Represent C independently
1-C
3Alkyl,
And 5≤m≤300.
2. the compositions of claim 1, wherein said dimethicone copolyol is selected from the chemical compound of formula (I)
R=-(CH wherein
2)
pO-(C
2H
4O)
x(C
3H
6O)
yH
Wherein m is the integer of 20-105,
N is the integer of 2-10,
P equals 3,
X equals 18,
Y equals 18.
3. claim 1 or 2 compositions, wherein said α, the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is selected from the chemical compound of formula (III):
Wherein:
m＝100，
R=(CH
2)
3-O-(C
2H
4O)
x-(C
3H
6O)
y-CH
3, wherein x is 3-100, and y is 1-50, C
2H
4O unit and C
3H
6The unitary weight ratio of O is about 42: 58, and the mean molecule quantity of R is 800-1000.
4. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, wherein said α, the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is selected from the chemical compound of formula (III):
Wherein:
m＝100，
R=(CH
2)
3-O-(C
2H
4O)
x-(C
3H
6O)
y-CH
3, wherein x equals 14, and y equals 14, C
2H
4O unit and C
3H
6The unitary weight ratio of O is about 42: 58, and the mean molecule quantity of R is 800-1000.
5. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, wherein said emulsification system comprises the dimethicone copolyol of 12: 86: 2 the formula (I) that contains 18 oxyethylation groups and 18 oxypropylation groups at least, the mixture of D5 and water and 85: 15 α, the ω position is by the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of 14 oxyethylation groups and 14 oxypropylation group replacements and the mixture of D5, the INCI name of preceding a kind of mixture is called D5/PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane, and the INCI name of a kind of mixture in back is called Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 polydimethylsiloxane/D5.
6. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, wherein in the weight of active substance in the whole emulsion, the dimethicone copolyol of formula (I) and formula (II) or α (III), the ratio of the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is preferably greater than 1 more than or equal to 1.
7. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, wherein in active substance, formula (II) or α (III), the amount of the polysiloxanes of the oxidation alkylene of ω-replacement is the 1-5% of emulsion gross weight, more preferably 2-3% weight.
8. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, wherein said polysiloxanes ethereal oil is a D5.
9. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, wherein said volatile hydrocarbon base oil is a Fancol ID.
10. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, wherein described volatile fat mutually in the weight ratio of polysiloxanes ethereal oil and volatility hydrocarbon ils can be 4: 2.
11. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, described compositions are included as at least 3% glycerol of emulsion gross weight in addition.
12. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, described compositions comprises at least 2% C in addition
2-C
4Alcohol, particularly ethanol.
13. each compositions in the aforementioned claim, described compositions comprises at least a antioxidant, particularly tocopherol in addition.
14. a cosmetic suit, described suit comprises:
-at least a as at the bottom of the basic powder as each defined compositions among the claim 1-12;
-at least a foundation compositions;
-at least a the powder of fixing.
15. a cosmetic method, described method comprise at least a compositions as defining among the claim 1-13 of local application.
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| CN2008101309106A CN101642416B (en) | 2008-08-08 | 2008-08-08 | Stable water-in-oil emulsion with high water content and high volatile fat phase content |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN2008101309106A CN101642416B (en) | 2008-08-08 | 2008-08-08 | Stable water-in-oil emulsion with high water content and high volatile fat phase content |
Publications (2)
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|---|---|
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|---|---|---|---|
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Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2016000145A1 (en) * | 2014-06-30 | 2016-01-07 | L'oreal | Composition in form of emulsion |
| WO2016000140A1 (en) * | 2014-06-30 | 2016-01-07 | L'oreal | Composition in form of emulsion |
| CN108324595A (en) * | 2018-04-18 | 2018-07-27 | 上海中翊日化有限公司 | A kind of water-in-oil foundation liquid combining form having toning function and its use and preparation method |
| CN110339074A (en) * | 2018-06-29 | 2019-10-18 | 广东芭薇生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of w/o type fine emulsion |
Family Cites Families (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2794971B1 (en) * | 1999-06-18 | 2003-08-29 | Oreal | HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A WATER-IN-SILICONE EMULSION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE FIXING POLYMER |
| US6958155B2 (en) * | 2002-06-12 | 2005-10-25 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions comprising at least one polysiloxane based polyamide |
| FR2901698B1 (en) * | 2006-05-31 | 2008-08-08 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING VINYL POLYMER AND OLEFIN COPOLYME |
-
2008
- 2008-08-08 CN CN2008101309106A patent/CN101642416B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2016000145A1 (en) * | 2014-06-30 | 2016-01-07 | L'oreal | Composition in form of emulsion |
| WO2016000140A1 (en) * | 2014-06-30 | 2016-01-07 | L'oreal | Composition in form of emulsion |
| CN108324595A (en) * | 2018-04-18 | 2018-07-27 | 上海中翊日化有限公司 | A kind of water-in-oil foundation liquid combining form having toning function and its use and preparation method |
| CN110339074A (en) * | 2018-06-29 | 2019-10-18 | 广东芭薇生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of w/o type fine emulsion |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN101642416B (en) | 2013-11-20 |
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